Gen 1 2006 Tundra Lift vibration explained and SOLVED
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- Опубліковано 18 бер 2021
- If you're having some vibrations with your truck after installing a lift/leveling kit, I explain some of the causes and issues and how to fix them.
2006 Toyota Tundra SR5 Double Cab
Rough Country 2.5" front/2" rear lift
Stealth Custom Series F5 wheels 17x8.5 -10 offset
285/70/17 BFGoodrich K02
Instagram: suewavang
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Some times it’s the drive shaft center support that needs replaced.
You should get a added leaf springs it will handle way better
If you tow a lot I will recommend the ome shocks
You should think about getting a aftermarket upper control or alignment cause every time you lift a truck it’ll eat up your front tires faster if you don’t get alignment anyways keep it up man it’ll just keep getting better
Yep alignment is done. Just need new upper and lower control arms then going to get another alignment. But I already have a work truck which is why I chose not to add a leaf
My 2017 Tundra was shuttering at 12 mph from a dead stop. I replaced the carrier bearing and the center u-joint connected to it, it felt better but the shutter was still 100% there. My carrier bearing was pretty beat and worn. Now, I did a 1” block lift in the rear a year ago and it came with new u-bolts and 9/16 nuts that I thought I torqued down tightly, but sure enough on inspection I found that two nuts were totally missing ☠️☠️ on the passenger side, and the other two that were still there were very loose. My rear end was basically just hanging there. Thank God I found the issue before the entire axle came free. I bought new nuts, added split washers and red thread locker, and viola, the shutter is 100% gone. Man, I’m so happy now LOL!
Good thing you found that issue! I noticed mine would get loose as well so I check it pretty occasionally as well. Thread locker would be the way to go for sure
Doing this asap, I notice it more when I tow my 19’ trailer in 2wd. Thanks brother!
If it doesn't work you might have to drop the front diff a little too but it should work!
It was my u bolts on my diff 😫😫! Two bolts fell off. Ouch!
@@chrismak4859 that explains it, glad you found the issue!
Nice truck! I have the same truck 05
Your tie rod is not tight, I see a gap
Surely it is. That jam nut is lose.
Your tie rod ends needing replaced is your wobbling problem. You can service your LCA's ARE servicable...I did mine nor problem. I used Siberian Urethane Bushings. Good stuff. I want to know HONESTLY if you've slung out your drive shaft yet with the longer bolts and those 10 shade tree washers for a spacer kit... Wow...😬
U-joints look dry. When was the last time you greased them?
Mine Tundra is just like yours. A few things. Use 1/4in diff drop for every inch lift in rear. Also keep the driveshaft greased. Funny though when greasing the slip joint at the rear of shaft remove the fitting after to REMOVE AIR BUILD UP!!! If you don't any time you jack up the truck it will vibrate afterwards
Will keep that in mind, thanks!
How do you remove air build up
@@flj232I removed the zerk nipple and it will bubble out. Also what I did was driving it with it out on a good dry day with it out. Then put it back. I think it was an 6 or 8 mm socket.
You just pump grease into the slip yoke just until you see it move a little then take the zerk out and jump up and down on the rear bumper a few times then put the zerk back and your done. If it hasn't been greased for a long time you may be better off taking it off and greasing it by hand with the Ford tfe blue grease
I have a 05 DC 2WD Sport series. My best friend has a 01 TRD 4x4, and gas done a 3" lift and has had the same problems. His drive shafts is having issues, he put off road- upper suspension arms on it so springs don't rub the ball joints.
I need some aftermarket upper control arms as well. Still haven't justified buying them and installing yet since I've only put 5000 miles on my truck since I've lifted it lol (summer only). Was he able to fix his driveshaft issue by dropping the carrier bearing or is it a different issue?
A while back he had it rebuilt at a axle shop about 30 min away. He said it's starting to vibrate again. I think he needs a carrier drop too. His truck has 460k miles. He's owned it since it was new.
Is that a custom fuel tank guard or aftermarket? You may want to blast your alignment bolts with PB Blaster or brush on Evapo-rust and let it sit overnight. If you do a few times it may free up your bolts.
Came with the truck since brand new so OEM
Best to replace the stack of washers with a busing. Steel poly or rubber would work
This was for diagnosing purposes only. A carrier bearing drop kit is the way to go for sure
Can you tell me the right drive line angles? And how it was before you drop the carrier bearing?
I couldn't tell you the exact angles. But you basically want the driveshaft to run 180 degrees. Before I dropped the carrier bearing, it was more like 160 degrees
Nice truck..I have a 06 Tundra too...question on the rim and tire combo,..front tires...did you use a spacers to prevent your tire from rubbing the upper control arm?
No spacer needed if you run a lower offset wheel like I did. If you try to run 285's on stock wheels, you'll need some spacers.
I think I’m having this issue. Does it sound like you’re having a blowing fan only while accelerating only?
Maybe if you're referring to a bad blower fan then I can see what you're saying. But otherwise, it was just a slight vibration that you could feel travel through the whole car. The sound you're referring to could be something else
Hey bud, great info. Could u explain which speed/rpm/gear the vibration was occurring. Thanks
So what I experienced, it wasn't RPM based. No matter what gear I was in or how hard I was accelerating, I was consistently feeling the vibration right around 25-30 MPH. Whenever I sped up to 25-30 MPH the truck vibrated. Same thing when I slowed down.
@@suewavang1538 hey bro I have a 05 double cab 4x4 with a 3/2.5 lift and the only thing I installed was the " lift" components of the kit. I didn't install the diff drop or carrier bearing drop kit as it would defeat the purpose of gaining more ground clearance. what I did do is grease all my u joints every 6 months.. more if off roading often.. with no vibration issues. check the drive line for zerk fittings and greese them as needed. the rear of the drive line connecting to rear diff can extend to a certain degree. you will know what I'm talking about when u grease it.
@@LTFT83 the carrier bearing drop doesn't affect ground clearance issues for me since there are still other parts that sit lower. But I did remove the diff drop. I'll still have to grease them as you suggested though. Thanks!
That thing is clean, how many miles on her now?
Thanks! She's sitting at about 138k miles now. Have barely put any miles on her since I made this video almost 2 years ago
@@suewavang1538 Wow that thing is going to last forever
@@jaymoar3561 that's the plan! This thing is going with me to my grave!
Is the vibration on the steering wheel?
Nope, that would indicate a bent front wheel or unbalanced front tires. My vibration was under acceleration and only under certain speeds which indicated a driveline vibration
A new carrier bearing and u joint. Either OEM or one that will compensate the differentials with your lift. That’s not gonna last nor is the correct way to fix that. I think you’re making more work by guessing. I mean no disrespect in fact I would like to know if it works?
It worked. It's not perfect but it worked. The real solution is a one piece driveshaft
The amount of rust just Kill everything
Get a one piece custom shaft
All day long...
That's a lot of rust under your rig???🤔
Are you asking rhetorically or are you saying there's a lot of rust under my truck? Lol. Either way, it's a lot more rust than I'd like. Any amount of rust is too much rust
@@suewavang1538 lo mejor para el oxidado es lavarlo por debajo con mucho aceite quemado y te durara mucho mas
It’s a Toyota thing haha! I’m constantly using a wire brush and spraying heavy coats of rustoleum, keeps it rust free and cleaner looking.
Por 15 or some Eastwood encapsulator
Reasons why people shouldn't modify the stock suspension and driveline geometry by install aftermarket parts.
Looks like your carrier bearing is cooked.
Your steering lock nut is slock
The lower control arms are definitely serviceable
They are, but due to rust the cam bolts are seized into the control arms. They would have to be cut out in order to remove the LCA and at that point, might as well replace them. Much easier than doing ball joints and new bushings.