Відео

@@nathanmalj3629 that's actually genius. I will have to use that method next time. Thank you for the idea!

Are you talking about the bolt and nut method?

stop the video at 5:12 and you can see the nut and bolt method. It requires overlapping/sliding the coilover over the knuckle and drilling 2 through holes. I used some really big bolts with exhaust 02 bungs as spacers on both sides since they have a curvature shape to them.

@@user-dr3mw2pl9p I bought the car this way. If you can help it, I would recommend not putting this engine in this chassis. There is a lot of bump steer so it's pretty dangerous to drive. If you want this swap, I would recommend getting a tech2 hood and don't mess with the steering rack. The car doesn't look as sleeper but it'll drive much better

@@suewavang1538 wow 😮 is that I been true 2 rotary engine already and am trying to do this swap does the frame has to be changed?

@@user-dr3mw2pl9p if you want the rb26 to work, a lot of fabrication and engineering has to be done. It'll work with off-the-shelf stuff but you'll have other problems. If you want to do a swap and have the car done normally, a 4 cylinder would be your best bet, but it'll never drive the same as a rotary

@@suewavang1538 wow seen your video the tires looks twisted

@@te71se 5 speed, but 6 speed should be the same

Several other people are having that same issue with them. I believe one guy stated on a forum recently that he's been waiting over a year Mine took 3 months but only because I threatened to file a dispute since their website stated it was only going to take 8 weeks (2 months). That got them going pretty fast but the quality wasn't great. Very thin. Not sure if that's how it's supposed to be.

@@suewavang1538 how come you stopped making cressida content would’ve loved to see how it turned out there isn’t much content surrounding these cars

@@1nonlyjz I'm going to start again eventually but right now I've got like 8 other projects that I need to fix and sell and the cressida is a car I plan to keep forever so I don't feel the rush to work on it yet. I will make more content though! Thanks for watching!

I'm glad it helped. I honestly cannot remember how the bearings go into the case. Or I'm not exactly sure which one you're talking about. If you're talking about the tapered ones, they just get pressed into the main and counter shafts and then just sit on the race inside the case. If you're talking about the bearings by the axle/diff (honestly can't remember if there were bearings there or not) then I don't remember removing them so if they're sliding in and out then it's probably not normal.

www.awdmotorsports.com/product_p/hardened-ring-pinion.htm

Thank you!

Hiding in the pole barn until I have more time to upgrade it

Yeah parts are getting hard to come by. But no, I haven't tried that style bearing. The kit I bought came with OEM style and I didn't want to fork the extra money to buy the other style (I also don't know where to get them).

It worked. It's not perfect but it worked. The real solution is a one piece driveshaft

Garage whifbitz

Lift kit is doing great. Highly recommend. But I would also suggest doing upper control arms as well

Regular. It's just "crimped" into place similar to how axle nut are done. Needs quite a bit of force/leverage to loosen it

Appreciate you man. Always with the quick replies

@@cryptonursery5027 the truth is, I just have nothing better to do than sit here and reply to UA-cam comments 😂

Lol that just means the work on Your evo is solid my G haha. Finally got the bish of a nut off. Ended up screwing a part of the driveline to a 4x4 and put my miata on top of the 4x4 so It wouldn't budge lol. Worked like a charm. Thanks again for all your help. Got the torque tube out as well. Just held in by the Trans diff casing

@@cryptonursery5027 that's actually pretty genius. I stuck the driveshaft into the splines and just used a pry bar to hold it in place the best that I could. Your method seems way more sturdy lol. But glad you got it all figured out!

Sorry man, I do not. But from the looks of it, it just has a spring holding it in like the inner axle shaft thingies (I literally just forgot what they're called), so you might be able to just hammer it out with the right sized socket/shaft

thanks for the reply. i heard one other person say something about hammering it out so that may be it. appreciate the help @@suewavang1538

Had the same issue. Used a little blue thread locker and gave her a good, snug torque with a 3/8 ratchet and called it good. (Ring gear). The rest of the case bolts, I just went snug on them and called it a day.

I'm the opposite lol. I can do this all day but rebuilding an engine is a little intimidating for me. Mostly the cost to rebuild it and then the cost of making mistakes.

@@suewavang1538 I have made mistakes when I was younger but now it’s cake lol. I guess we both can learn new things lol. I have to pull the trans in the skyline and rebuild the transfer case maybe I’ll get the guts to do it lol

@@r_napoleon I'm not sure how GTR t-cases work but I would assume it can't be that complex being it's early 2000s technology. Just make sure everything is laid out in order and in the correct orientation and put them back in the way they came out. I've also noticed it's easier to remember how to do something if you do it all in one or two days. That way everything is fresh in your brain.

They are, but due to rust the cam bolts are seized into the control arms. They would have to be cut out in order to remove the LCA and at that point, might as well replace them. Much easier than doing ball joints and new bushings.

If there's play, replace it. I used a 3-jaw gear puller to remove the bearing and all the gears. If you have a press, that would probably be better

Thanks dude appreciate it

Also are both the output shaft bearings the same can only find the one that’s not being replaced on the expanded diagram

@@michaelhorning48 I want to say they are different. One had a plastic covering and the other one had exposed bearings. Check STMTuned for transmission rebuild stuff to find the bearing you need. I believe they sell them individually

Very true! It's definitely a love/hate relationship!

Glad the video could help you! I was in the same boat. Couldn't find any videos about it. That's why I decided to film the process. It's not that hard. It makes more sense as you start taking stuff apart. Just make sure you keep them laid out in the correct order and orientation and you'll be fine! Best of luck!

@@suewavang1538 dope! happy to hear that haha

Yep, I pulled the VIN and confirmed it's an original turbo car. I kinda wished it wasn't so I would feel less bad for parting it out lol

If I can't find parts to restore it, I'll probably end up parting it out. Hope I don't have to though!

I am not. What parts are you looking for?

All the 5 speed have the same synchros and sleeve but the 6 speed are different, so a rebuild kit for the 6 speed will not work for the 5 speed and vice versa. If you're asking if the sleeves and synchros inside of the transmission itself are the same size, then the answer is no, they are not.

I couldn't tell you the exact angles. But you basically want the driveshaft to run 180 degrees. Before I dropped the carrier bearing, it was more like 160 degrees

Good thing you found that issue! I noticed mine would get loose as well so I check it pretty occasionally as well. Thread locker would be the way to go for sure

Yes, I'm aware. Human precision is nowhere near as good as a machine. Having some sort of jig/vise would help a lot with drilling straight in this case, but would also drive up the cost of the repair making it unnecessary. I'm just trying to show that the average DIYer can do this themselves and save a few dollars.

I've actually never checked the dealer but I highly doubt they have it in stock. Might have to be special order and probably crazy expensive lol

I need some aftermarket upper control arms as well. Still haven't justified buying them and installing yet since I've only put 5000 miles on my truck since I've lifted it lol (summer only). Was he able to fix his driveshaft issue by dropping the carrier bearing or is it a different issue?

A while back he had it rebuilt at a axle shop about 30 min away. He said it's starting to vibrate again. I think he needs a carrier drop too. His truck has 460k miles. He's owned it since it was new.

If it doesn't work you might have to drop the front diff a little too but it should work!

It was my u bolts on my diff 😫😫! Two bolts fell off. Ouch!

@@chrismak4859 that explains it, glad you found the issue!

Best of luck! It's pretty simple to do!

The sanding and buffing of the black Evo will be when the weather is warmer. Probably around April-May!

Soon here! Thanks for your continuous support!

You have no idea how much I cussed over that stupid mount lol. I'll have to try the ratchet strap method next time. What I did that worked for the black Evo (the other one in the video) was I disconnected the front and rear mounts, hooked up an engine hoist, removed the main engine and trans mount, pried the t case off to the side, and pulled the engine forward which allowed it to slide off the rear mount and gave access to the last bellhousing bolt

@@suewavang1538 with the transfer out of the way.. theres enough room to get a torque wrench for that back bell housing bolt. And a wrench should get to the rear motor mount U bracket. I did lower the subframe tho because i was removing the trans.

Thanks Erik!!

I'm open to taking work from customers. Drop by my Instagram (@suewavang) and check out my other work/shoot me a message when you're ready!

Nothing in particular. Depends on what your goals with it are. If you plan to go turbo, just buy a 7MGTE/1JZ/2JZ right off the bat. Costs a little more money but will save you time from having to pull out the N/A engine back and forth

Hoping to make it a daily for the family a cool cruiser to bring back to life. Appreciate the advice.

These are 17x8.5 -10 offset

Thanks are you happy with the offset?

@@geofffelsing1283 personally I'm happy with it. It doesn't poke too much. If you want it to look more aggressive, SCS offers these wheels in -38. But that's very aggressive.

Thanks! Best of luck. You're going to need a lot of leverage on the front lower control arms!

This was for diagnosing purposes only. A carrier bearing drop kit is the way to go for sure

Nvm you said 90 days

Too long. It was forecasted 8 weeks but took closer to 13 weeks until I finally received it. And it wasn't a great finish either. That's probably because I kept bothering them after week 8 about the progress so they probably rushed it. That's technically fast compared to some others that I've heard of though.