I can’t tell you how many times I’ve bought parts from rockauto, then come to watch a 1A auto video about how to install them, then remembered how helpful you guys are and felt so terrible about not even checking your prices before buying! Thanks for the help and sorry I always remember you too late!
That's what we like to hear, James! Thanks for checking us out, and thanks for your kind words. We look forward to your business :) Oh, here's a link to the part in this video by the way. Order from us and we'll ship it to you free! www.1aauto.com/wheel-bearing-and-hub-assembly/i/1ashf00197?UA-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony
Doing the cv axle and wheel hub assembly on my 09 Silverado 1500 this weekend. I now buy all my parts through you and it’s really helpful with the how to videos. Thanks guys!!
Thanks for the detailed video! The shop wanted over $700. I was able to do it in under two hours following the instructions in the video. It’s great that you are giving the torque so I didn’t have to look it up elsewhere.
Great video. Love when guys get straight to the point......we type in what we're looking for, and unlike most videos, these guys are doing just what I typed searching for. Thx so much
2007 gmc 1500 4x4. .. Had to put the bearing bolts back in and pound on the bolts to get it to back out. ( put socket on before pounding) beat on it with a hammer wouldn’t budge till I put bolts back in the back side The 36 mm bolt.. mercy 3 ft cheater bar wouldn’t break it loose. Had to get impact and about 2 mins finally Got it. Put your 3/8 drives away use all 1/2 drives. Snapped a 3/8 extension. Sure helps to have the right tools ahead of time lol
that's a really good idea putting the bolts partway in and pounding on them to push out the hub. I'm not sure that would have worked in my case, though. My truck ate 12 years of salt in Chicago winters, so it was good and rusted in place. I purchased a tool that has a 3/4" steel plate that bolts to the wheel studs and has a welded-on square tube that projects out. I bolted that on and wailed on the end of the tube with a sledgehammer. After 5-6 blows, it opened enough of a gap that I could get a pry bar between the hub and the knuckle and pry it out.
+DeSilver Nickerson Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
Your videos are great. I have watched and used them countless times for repairs on my silverado and my wife's yukon. Thanks a tonne from your neighbours to the north.
Great video! East and straight forward. Thanks for adding the other clip in and no biggie that it wasn’t in order. Forgot to put your grease cap back on!
+Mike Mills Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
Just disassembled the right front on a 2008 Silverado, and the axle nut was actually 35 mm not 36. Glad I had a set. Had trouble getting the hub out, so I reinserted the bolts and left a gap. Then I used my air hammer alternating bolt heads.
you guys must be from the south because my 2007 had more rust and corrosion from our hard winters here in Canada, and salt on the roads. My hub didn't come off that easy. I had torch heat, big hammer and a puller got mine off.
my trucks underbody looks great and i'm from northern ontario. spend 200 bucks a year and have your vehicle uncoated... or, for 125 bucks for the spray gun and 80 for 5 gallons of underspray from maslack -- you could do it yourself , pays for itself the first time and you can do 3, really well covered undercoats with the 5 gallons.
+David Moss Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/1A/front-wheel-bearings-and-hubs/Chevy/Silverado1500/1ASHF00197?UA-cam&CTA+Comment&XknVcvYIM
Just had this done on my 2007 Chevy avalanche at a auto shop. Cost me $521.00. Three year warranty on hub assembly. I was fortunate to have a repair shop replace the assembly since I was traveling 🧳, repairs took 1 hour 45 minutes. Sure I paid more than I’d like to have, it was worth it. 😊
I noticed you didn't replace the dust cover. Mine got damaged when I removed it. Do I need this cover or is it something it can go without? Watched a lot of vids and yours was the best. Thank you.
Great video, it will be a great help when I recommend a repair to my friend who's shop wants to charge $700 for this. Two things though; DON'T use lithium grease to lube the brake pads, use high-temperature grease made for brakes - that's probably why they were sticking. Second, you didn't install the axle nut dust cover.
Does removing the pads make the caliper come off easier? Or does it not need to be done? Wouldn't the caliper come off with pads installed? Seems like a couple extra steps if so. Thanks.
I see there are "HD/Heavy Duty" versions of the bearing hubs. What exactly make those "heavy duty" over standard ones??? Bigger bearing, thicker hub, etc? They all look identical in photos.
+thechosendude You want to check with the retailer to see what they mean by heavy duty. Usually they will accommodate larger wheels and off-road applications if they are listed as a "heavy duty" upgrade. 1aauto.com
Great video but for others address the fact you will have to torch and pound w a big sledge to get the old one out. I did that for an hour then it was easy peazy
I have a 3500 gmc sierra 4x4 dually...I cant pull the center nut out...i already broke a brake bar...I have a half inch impact but that's not enough...any suggestions to pull center nut out? Thank you for your video!
My truck had some noise and what felt like what I would describe as rubbing near the front driver's side wheel. How do you know if this is the problem part?
Those t30 bolts are hit and miss, they came out easy on my dad's truck, but were a PITA on my truck. His came out easy, so I put his back in, it is used in the factory to keep the rotor in place. On my truck (Michigan) it was rusted, then stripped, then a pain to get out. For that reason, I won't put them back in. The lug nut is an easier method to hold it in place.
+Stephen Sweet Thanks for watching! You do not need to reinstall the torx screw, it is just a factory thing that helps prevent the rotors from falling off during the vehicle assembly process.
I have new TImken hub assemblies and the timken info site says the axle nut torque is 188. Is that correct for Timken or is it 177 or 156, etc. I have done this job on other vehicles and had no trouble, but installed one of the Timkens and drove about 200 miles and it got exceedingly hot torqued at 188. Does not seem right.
Thanks guys,just popped mine out,it was a bear.Air chisel did the trick,everything else it wasn't budging,lots of acetone and tyranny fluid as a rust penetrater.
Some of your torque specs mentioned in the video seem different from GM. GM: Hub flange bolts: 133 ( same) Front Caliper mounting Bracket bolt, 129 ft lb Caliper guide pin bolt, 74 ft lb (RPO code JF3) Axle nut, 177 ft lb Lug nut 140 ft lb
Thanks for the video about to do my hub wanted to see what I’m getting into you were a lot of help. If one hub goes would you recommend doing the other also while the trucks up on stands and the tools are already out?
@@Poopoopoop100 "Gm recommends you take it out.". Got a source for this? Honestly, I can't think of a really good reason it needs to be there, and no one is going to cry over it being missing, but that's far different from GM recommending it.
Mine didn’t have the T 30 torques bolt holding the rotor to the wheel hub. I blew a caliper, do you think that might have something to do with it? Or do some trucks just not have it? I have a 2012 Silverado 1500 5.3
Do you have to remove the top cap from br the master cylinder will you feel the brake fluid before you clap down on the brake to move it back into position so you can put on the new brakes
I'm trying to replace my rear wheel bearings on my 2007 chevy suburban 1500 RWD. Can you direct me to a video for that? I've been searching for a while and most videos just show replacing the front wheel hubs
So wondering between the hub and axle is there grease or should you add grease. You grease contact between knuckle and hub but axle goes ungreased between hub and axle is this area just cleaned and left free of grease or is there suppose to be grease? On my 2007 suburban it is really dry between this area.
+TH0R Odinson Thanks for watching! You should really not have to add grease there, as the hub is sealed and the CV axle only required grease inside the boot. 1aauto.com
How come in other videos on 07-13 the torque specs differ @1AAuto. For instance the caliper housing on this video is 100ft lbs, and on the video to do upper control arm its 129ft lbs
Why isnt the removal of the center nut of the cv shaft apart of the video on or off. What size socket is it and torque? Looked at a lot of comments and no one asked that I could see so that would add confusion in trying to remove it wouldn't? Good video all the same Tks
+outcold963 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
+Corey Verrill Thanks for watching. We carry the replacement part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them, if any of our viewers needs to make this repair www.1aauto.com/1A/front-wheel-bearings-and-hubs/Chevy/Silverado1500/1ASHF00197?UA-cam&CTA+Comment&XknVcvYIM
Thank for the great vid! Do you know what is the exact difference between a 2WD hub vs a 4WD hub is? I know the CV goes into the 4WD hub but what I'm really wondering is, if I want to delete my 4WD parts and remove my CV axles, why do I need to replace the 4WD hubs with 2WD hubs?
+A K Thank you for checking us out. We would not have any recommendations in regard to modifying the vehicle as we provide parts and installation instructions for direct replacement parts. We also would not have specifications on the exact differences between the 2WD and 4WD hub, however the parts will be manufactured differently depending on the application. Please let us know if you have any further questions, thank you.
Really easy to follow really cured my anxiety about doing the job myself after watching this lol 😆 😅. Does this apply for a 2011 2500HD as well? I'd assume yes?! Amazing products and videos! Thanks!! Yall Rock!
So I balanced my front driver side wheel about 3 times.before i got the wheels my steering wheel was shaking so i thought it needed to be rebalanced.still shaked alot and it still does.i got 26 inch wheels. I move it up and down and left and right and i havent seen anything move whatsoever. Any suggestions could it be my wheel bearing
+fabian casillas We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
I have a 2009 GMC Sierra 1500 and the hub is closed. There is no axle to go through the hub. However, my new hubs are hollow with the grooves to accept the axle but there is no center bolt or axle. Amazon says the hollow hubs will work. I hope so.
Hi. Love your how to videos. Just replaced my dads rotors and pads I bought from you guys on his 2008 Silverado easily thanks to your video. I will be ordering a hub and possibly an axle for my 2007 Silverado which needs replacing. You also have a video on replacing the axle/cv joints on this truck. If you are replacing the brakes and hub as well do you still need to remove the shock in order to replace the axle/cv joint assembly you sell? Seems like after removing the hub you can just remove the 6 bolts from the differential and just remove the axle without removing the shock?? Thanks.
Appreciate the video... Replaced my passenger front assembly over the weekend and your vid definitely helped me know what I had to expect... Thank God for extension bars to get torque on a few of the bolts, but a few came off a little too easy too.. Kinda made me nervous about driving it before the install..
+Shawn S Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Just replace my wheel bearing on my 2012 Silverado, just wanted to let everyone know that you need a 35mm for axle nut, 36mm has to much slop, everything fit perfectly.
Hey Tony. I’m am getting ready to do the job. 35mm is too tight to fit on the axle nut but the 36mm does seem to have too much play. What do you recommend?
why after changing the hub bearings would the service brake notification pop up on the dash? parking brake light and abs light are on at all times now as well. any help would be appreciated. thanks
+Chris In Kansas Thanks for watching! You should double check the ABS wiring to make sure they cable is connected, and the wire is not damaged. 1aauto.com
I noticed you didn't replace the cap over that 36 mm center nut. Is that needed? You didnt mention puttin gthe torx screw back in the rotor either, fwiw... I get that one can live without that.
+Jorge Reyes If you would like to reply back with your year, make and model vehicle we can reply back with a link to them wheel hub assemblies that we carry for your vehicle.
+cody grissl It should be the same procedure. We carry the replacement wheel hub assembly shown in this video for your application, here is a link to them. Hope this helps you outgoo.gl/5Pg3rw
Not actually sure what size it is offhand. It's been a while since we made this video, so we no longer have the truck to go check. It's not imperative that you have it though. Hope this helps you out. 1aauto.com?UA-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony 866-403-3393
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Shouldn't I use Loctite the hub assembly bolts?
I can’t tell you how many times I’ve bought parts from rockauto, then come to watch a 1A auto video about how to install them, then remembered how helpful you guys are and felt so terrible about not even checking your prices before buying! Thanks for the help and sorry I always remember you too late!
+Jay Eickholtz Thanks for watching. Buy the part in this video on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
This is a real how to video. Easy to follow, step by step. Will buy from these guys based on this alone! Great job!
That's what we like to hear, James! Thanks for checking us out, and thanks for your kind words. We look forward to your business :) Oh, here's a link to the part in this video by the way. Order from us and we'll ship it to you free! www.1aauto.com/wheel-bearing-and-hub-assembly/i/1ashf00197?UA-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony
Doing the cv axle and wheel hub assembly on my 09 Silverado 1500 this weekend. I now buy all my parts through you and it’s really helpful with the how to videos. Thanks guys!!
Thanks for the detailed video!
The shop wanted over $700.
I was able to do it in under two hours following the instructions in the video. It’s great that you are giving the torque so I didn’t have to look it up elsewhere.
Great video. Love when guys get straight to the point......we type in what we're looking for, and unlike most videos, these guys are doing just what I typed searching for. Thx so much
Torque spec
-Wheel bearing (3) 133 ftlb
-brake caliper (2) 100 ftlb
-brake piston bolt (2) 50 ftlb
-wheel lug nuts (6) 140 ftlb
What about the axle nut?
177ftlbs
2007 gmc 1500 4x4. .. Had to put the bearing bolts back in and pound on the bolts to get it to back out. ( put socket on before pounding) beat on it with a hammer wouldn’t budge till I put bolts back in the back side
The 36 mm bolt.. mercy 3 ft cheater bar wouldn’t break it loose. Had to get impact and about 2 mins finally
Got it.
Put your 3/8 drives away use all 1/2 drives. Snapped a 3/8 extension.
Sure helps to have the right tools ahead of time lol
that's a really good idea putting the bolts partway in and pounding on them to push out the hub. I'm not sure that would have worked in my case, though. My truck ate 12 years of salt in Chicago winters, so it was good and rusted in place. I purchased a tool that has a 3/4" steel plate that bolts to the wheel studs and has a welded-on square tube that projects out. I bolted that on and wailed on the end of the tube with a sledgehammer. After 5-6 blows, it opened enough of a gap that I could get a pry bar between the hub and the knuckle and pry it out.
awesome video guys. i was able to do mine in an hour. i removed the brake mounting caliper as a complete assembly without any issues. Thank you!
Really like your videos, very helpful. Just noticed you did not put the dust cap back on after tightening the center nut.
Nor the T30 torx but good videos. 👍👍👍👍
Great video and excellent quality. Did the repair on my ‘08 sierra and worked perfectly. Thank you for putting the video out!
+DeSilver Nickerson Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
Thanks for the video. I replaced both wheel bearings under 3 hours.
Your videos are great. I have watched and used them countless times for repairs on my silverado and my wife's yukon. Thanks a tonne from your neighbours to the north.
Great video! East and straight forward. Thanks for adding the other clip in and no biggie that it wasn’t in order. Forgot to put your grease cap back on!
You have the best videos on UA-cam you're very clear and very knowledgeable appreciate it
+Mike Mills Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
Just disassembled the right front on a 2008 Silverado, and the axle nut was actually 35 mm not 36. Glad I had a set. Had trouble getting the hub out, so I reinserted the bolts and left a gap. Then I used my air hammer alternating bolt heads.
This is a much better video than the older one I watched, I like the detail he adds to the instruction.
+Donald Dean Thanks for checking us out. Shop here for high quality auto parts: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
you guys must be from the south because my 2007 had more rust and corrosion from our hard winters here in Canada, and salt on the roads. My hub didn't come off that easy. I had torch heat, big hammer and a puller got mine off.
thanks for the video
my trucks underbody looks great and i'm from northern ontario. spend 200 bucks a year and have your vehicle uncoated... or, for 125 bucks for the spray gun and 80 for 5 gallons of underspray from maslack -- you could do it yourself , pays for itself the first time and you can do 3, really well covered undercoats with the 5 gallons.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video!
Thank you for an amazing, simple, thorough video! Life saver!
Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com +Suzanne Truhlicka
The best how to do it video and explanation I have seen . GREAT JOB. THANKS. It makes life easier. GMC. Gentleman's Club.
Think I might replace my bearings just for fun, you made this look so easy!
+David Moss Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/1A/front-wheel-bearings-and-hubs/Chevy/Silverado1500/1ASHF00197?UA-cam&CTA+Comment&XknVcvYIM
Do you need an alignment after doing this repair?
1:53 you’ve already got the wheel off...
1:55 you’ve got the wheel back on?
Just had this done on my 2007 Chevy avalanche at a auto shop. Cost me $521.00. Three year warranty on hub assembly. I was fortunate to have a repair shop replace the assembly since I was traveling 🧳, repairs took 1 hour 45 minutes. Sure I paid more than I’d like to have, it was worth it. 😊
I noticed you didn't replace the dust cover. Mine got damaged when I removed it. Do I need this cover or is it something it can go without? Watched a lot of vids and yours was the best. Thank you.
You should definitely get a replacement then. The dust cap keep debris out of the bearing
Just bought the hub. Great deal for the pair, I’m hoping the are good quality. Thanks!
+Waylon Ratcliffe Thank you for your feedback and your business!
Great video, it will be a great help when I recommend a repair to my friend who's shop wants to charge $700 for this. Two things though; DON'T use lithium grease to lube the brake pads, use high-temperature grease made for brakes - that's probably why they were sticking. Second, you didn't install the axle nut dust cover.
Does removing the pads make the caliper come off easier? Or does it not need to be done? Wouldn't the caliper come off with pads installed? Seems like a couple extra steps if so. Thanks.
I was wondering the same thing...
So I was just wondering… do you not need to replace the axle nut dust cover on the hub??? Thanks great video.
Awesome video but did you forget the center cap on axle nut right at the end? You pry it off in the beginning.. Does the hub kit include a new one?
I see there are "HD/Heavy Duty" versions of the bearing hubs. What exactly make those "heavy duty" over standard ones??? Bigger bearing, thicker hub, etc? They all look identical in photos.
+thechosendude You want to check with the retailer to see what they mean by heavy duty. Usually they will accommodate larger wheels and off-road applications if they are listed as a "heavy duty" upgrade. 1aauto.com
Great video but for others address the fact you will have to torch and pound w a big sledge to get the old one out. I did that for an hour then it was easy peazy
Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com +Nicholas DeCarlo
That's a rarity.
I’m betting you got a rust bomb
Yeah live in Minnesota.😆 Iron unless you plan on changing it every year or 2
They have a video were they try getting one out from this channel lol
Just wanted to know if that 36 mm socket is a 12 spline?
35mm/36mm
they do vary on the axle nut size
I have a 3500 gmc sierra 4x4 dually...I cant pull the center nut out...i already broke a brake bar...I have a half inch impact but that's not enough...any suggestions to pull center nut out? Thank you for your video!
So the torx and dust cap aren’t re-installed?
My truck had some noise and what felt like what I would describe as rubbing near the front driver's side wheel. How do you know if this is the problem part?
Why hold rotor with lug nut instead of the t 30 bolt which you didn't mention on reassembly?
Those t30 bolts are hit and miss, they came out easy on my dad's truck, but were a PITA on my truck. His came out easy, so I put his back in, it is used in the factory to keep the rotor in place. On my truck (Michigan) it was rusted, then stripped, then a pain to get out. For that reason, I won't put them back in. The lug nut is an easier method to hold it in place.
+Jamin V Thanks for the feedback!
I get to do this project on my 12 Gmc sierra. Thank you for the great video.
What about the torx screw on the rotor? I didn't see that get re-installed. Does that screw have any torque specs?
+Stephen Sweet Thanks for watching! You do not need to reinstall the torx screw, it is just a factory thing that helps prevent the rotors from falling off during the vehicle assembly process.
I have new TImken hub assemblies and the timken info site says the axle nut torque is 188. Is that correct for Timken or is it 177 or 156, etc. I have done this job on other vehicles and had no trouble, but installed one of the Timkens and drove about 200 miles and it got exceedingly hot torqued at 188. Does not seem right.
I've only seen 156; I see this post is 4 years old - did you end up backing it off?
Very helpful video. Did my own today without a hitch! thanks for posting
Oh, one thing, the 36mm socket I bought felt a little sloppy on the axle nut. Would a 35mm been a better choice?
+croteaud Congratulations on the successful repair. We're glad the video helped you out. 1aauto.com?UA-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony 866-403-3393
+croteaud Yeah, that's definitely possible! If it's even been replaced it could certainly be a 35mm instead. Use whatever feels like it fits the best.
What torque wrench do you recommend using/buying for this job?
Great video thanks! I don’t remember you putting the T30 torques bolts back in. Did I miss that or are they optional
Thanks guys,just popped mine out,it was a bear.Air chisel did the trick,everything else it wasn't budging,lots of acetone and tyranny fluid as a rust penetrater.
Some of your torque specs mentioned in the video seem different from GM.
GM: Hub flange bolts: 133 ( same)
Front Caliper mounting Bracket bolt, 129 ft lb
Caliper guide pin bolt, 74 ft lb (RPO code JF3)
Axle nut, 177 ft lb
Lug nut 140 ft lb
psshd1
The axle nut gets torqued to the hub manufacturers specifications...
Not the vehicle manufacturer, unless you are buying hubs from the dealer
So my question is this; should the vehicle be on the ground first prior to torquing the center wheel bearing hub?
Thanks for the video about to do my hub wanted to see what I’m getting into you were a lot of help. If one hub goes would you recommend doing the other also while the trucks up on stands and the tools are already out?
Great video helped me get it done. Y'all forgot the t30 bolt lol
Shaun Colgan don’t need it. Gm recommends you take it out. It’s only in to hold the rotor on during assembly in the factory
@@Poopoopoop100 no joke?
@@Poopoopoop100 "Gm recommends you take it out.". Got a source for this? Honestly, I can't think of a really good reason it needs to be there, and no one is going to cry over it being missing, but that's far different from GM recommending it.
Mine didn’t have the T 30 torques bolt holding the rotor to the wheel hub. I blew a caliper, do you think that might have something to do with it? Or do some trucks just not have it? I have a 2012 Silverado 1500 5.3
They don’t need it, only reason for having them is to keep rotors on while going down the assembly line. The wheels hold them on
This is very similar to the set up my 2007 Chevy Express van 1500 had. Kept looking up Express van videos and none of them quite matched
Do you have to remove the top cap from br the master cylinder will you feel the brake fluid before you clap down on the brake to move it back into position so you can put on the new brakes
Just ordered a set of these for my silverado cant wait to put them on.
+Michael Tedford Thanks for checking us out!
I'm trying to replace my rear wheel bearings on my 2007 chevy suburban 1500 RWD. Can you direct me to a video for that? I've been searching for a while and most videos just show replacing the front wheel hubs
Excellent Video. Torque specs and all! Cheers!
Really enjoyed the video. A lot of good information, it'll make it easier for me when I replace the hub bearing assembly on my Silverado!! Thnx!👍
Do you need alignment afterwards?
Can I reuse the nuts and bolts or do I need to replace those also?
+@kceynelson As long as they are in good condition, you may feel free to reuse the original hardware.
So wondering between the hub and axle is there grease or should you add grease. You grease contact between knuckle and hub but axle goes ungreased between hub and axle is this area just cleaned and left free of grease or is there suppose to be grease? On my 2007 suburban it is really dry between this area.
+TH0R Odinson Thanks for watching! You should really not have to add grease there, as the hub is sealed and the CV axle only required grease inside the boot. 1aauto.com
How come in other videos on 07-13 the torque specs differ @1AAuto. For instance the caliper housing on this video is 100ft lbs, and on the video to do upper control arm its 129ft lbs
Why isnt the removal of the center nut of the cv shaft apart of the video on or off. What size socket is it and torque? Looked at a lot of comments and no one asked that I could see so that would add confusion in trying to remove it wouldn't?
Good video all the same
Tks
Great video, helped me walk through the process with ease.
+outcold963 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
thanks 1Aauto for the simple and easy to follow video! this was my goto guide for replacing my hub assembly so thank you!
+Corey Verrill Thanks for watching. We carry the replacement part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them, if any of our viewers needs to make this repair www.1aauto.com/1A/front-wheel-bearings-and-hubs/Chevy/Silverado1500/1ASHF00197?UA-cam&CTA+Comment&XknVcvYIM
as a student I really enjoy watching you guys!
Great step by step video.
Will this effect the alignment at all?? I don't see how it would but wanted to ask.
nope
Thank for the great vid! Do you know what is the exact difference between a 2WD hub vs a 4WD hub is? I know the CV goes into the 4WD hub but what I'm really wondering is, if I want to delete my 4WD parts and remove my CV axles, why do I need to replace the 4WD hubs with 2WD hubs?
+A K Thank you for checking us out. We would not have any recommendations in regard to modifying the vehicle as we provide parts and installation instructions for direct replacement parts. We also would not have specifications on the exact differences between the 2WD and 4WD hub, however the parts will be manufactured differently depending on the application. Please let us know if you have any further questions, thank you.
To Loosen Caliber bracket on the driver's side, is it up or down to loosen
Came here for a refresher, where does the T30 Torx come into play? I don't recall having to use any... 🤔
Did this now have abs traction lights on?
I had the same problem. Did you ever figure out the issue?
Really easy to follow really cured my anxiety about doing the job myself after watching this lol 😆 😅. Does this apply for a 2011 2500HD as well? I'd assume yes?! Amazing products and videos! Thanks!! Yall Rock!
So I balanced my front driver side wheel about 3 times.before i got the wheels my steering wheel was shaking so i thought it needed to be rebalanced.still shaked alot and it still does.i got 26 inch wheels. I move it up and down and left and right and i havent seen anything move whatsoever. Any suggestions could it be my wheel bearing
+fabian casillas We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Worked great for my 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT 4WD
I have a 2009 GMC Sierra 1500 and the hub is closed. There is no axle to go through the hub. However, my new hubs are hollow with the grooves to accept the axle but there is no center bolt or axle. Amazon says the hollow hubs will work. I hope so.
Hi. Love your how to videos. Just replaced my dads rotors and pads I bought from you guys on his 2008 Silverado easily thanks to your video. I will be ordering a hub and possibly an axle for my 2007 Silverado which needs replacing. You also have a video on replacing the axle/cv joints on this truck. If you are replacing the brakes and hub as well do you still need to remove the shock in order to replace the axle/cv joint assembly you sell? Seems like after removing the hub you can just remove the 6 bolts from the differential and just remove the axle without removing the shock?? Thanks.
Instead of grease on the hub, could anti seize be used to make it easier to remove the next time they need replaced?
You could, but since this is not a threaded part that you don't want to back itself out, grease is much cheaper.
Grease is such a generic term; I don't think they used bacon grease, but who knows. What type of grease is best suited for this?
Is the large Centre nut the same size on an 08 Tahoe?
Love 1aauto videos but i dont believe you put axle nut back on and was needing to know what to torque it to
Appreciate the video... Replaced my passenger front assembly over the weekend and your vid definitely helped me know what I had to expect... Thank God for extension bars to get torque on a few of the bolts, but a few came off a little too easy too.. Kinda made me nervous about driving it before the install..
+Shawn S Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Just replace my wheel bearing on my 2012 Silverado, just wanted to let everyone know that you need a 35mm for axle nut, 36mm has to much slop, everything fit perfectly.
Hey Tony. I’m am getting ready to do the job. 35mm is too tight to fit on the axle nut but the 36mm does seem to have too much play. What do you recommend?
Super easy. Thanks!
You guys are amazing. Thank you so much for all the help you provide thru your videos. You make being a dig mechanic so easy
+Jay13 Rogers Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com
Was there a Carter key in the axel nut
Do I have to disconnect the battery first?
Do you have to pack the bearing inside the new hub?
No it’s an entire sealed hub assembly
Gotta do this tomorrow. Thanks fellas
Will these steps work for a 2010 chevy Tahoe?
why after changing the hub bearings would the service brake notification pop up on the dash? parking brake light and abs light are on at all times now as well. any help would be appreciated. thanks
+Chris In Kansas Thanks for watching! You should double check the ABS wiring to make sure they cable is connected, and the wire is not damaged. 1aauto.com
Yo. Would be nice to know what size that center nut was for the wheel bearing hub..
36mm.... he tells you in the video
I noticed you didn't replace the cap over that 36 mm center nut. Is that needed? You didnt mention puttin gthe torx screw back in the rotor either, fwiw... I get that one can live without that.
torque spec on lug nuts is 140 guys
bowtieboy572bb what type of grease for the hub flange?
Would this hubs work for a 2 wheel drive?
+Jorge Reyes If you would like to reply back with your year, make and model vehicle we can reply back with a link to them wheel hub assemblies that we carry for your vehicle.
@@1AAuto Do you guys warranty your parts?
What did you do to get that hub to come off so easy??? Mine is welded on!
Must be a southern vehicle, I’m doing my bearing this weekend and I live in the rust belt I’m not looking forward to removing it
Awesome video though!! Will be using tomorrow!
how long does it take usaully to replace the hub never done it but i got to get it done beforetomorrow
is this the same procedure for a 2007 tahoe 4x4?
+cody grissl It should be the same procedure. We carry the replacement wheel hub assembly shown in this video for your application, here is a link to them. Hope this helps you outgoo.gl/5Pg3rw
1A Auto Parts thanks for the info it ended up being the rear u joint blown apart
Great job! Helped me through the entire thing!
+Bryce Schroeder Thanks for watching, We are glad that this has helped you out. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
I’m a wrong or did he say a couple wrong torque specs in there?? Wheels torque down to 140 and my center nut shows like 188 in 1a auto’s instructions
What size is the bolt that holds the rotor on? M8-1.25? What length? I stripped mine out and had to drill it out. Is it necessary to have one?
Not actually sure what size it is offhand. It's been a while since we made this video, so we no longer have the truck to go check. It's not imperative that you have it though. Hope this helps you out. 1aauto.com?UA-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony 866-403-3393
If you were to include a parts list by part number, that would be helpful. Do you stock and sell the backing plates? The road salt here eats 'em up.