I think a good idea..specially if you need a burst of water when you want it...but your total volume will only be what's going into your tank...thanks...
Neat test. key feature of an auto-siphon is much more downpipes to uppipes, your plumbing has them almost at parity. And the last down pipe is about 1/2 the cross sectional area.
I wonder if you were to decrease the diameter of the storage tank, causing the water level to rise faster, the siphon may fill quickly enough to start with only the flow from the ram pump. I love the practical science in your videos, keep inventing cool stuff man!
I have a question for you watching your videos is it possible to hook a ram pump to a siphon pump so you have a pond you can drain or siphon from hook it up to ramp up to stead of letting it drain into a ditch that you can use it to push water up the hill thank you God bless
The vacuum is created in the longer drop tube which is open near the lower u with the 1/2 where as, the 3/4 was too short to create the vacuum needed to cause a Sifon action to occur . Long vs short drop leg, I believe made the differences...... ?
Can you please show us how it could work on getting water from a pond up enough to create a little waterfall? I wonder if it would be possible to place the little end of the hose at the mouth of the future waterfall where it would eventually spill into the pond and fake the fall of the water for a bit with a bucket and eventually when it starts working on it's own it will work continuously? 😅 Am I completely insane or could that work?
Seth, my question is what is your recommendation for our situation? We have a pond with very little fall (maybe one foot) we purchased one of your medium 1” ram pumps recently. We need the pump to give us 10’ of rise. My thought is to create a siphon by putting a 55 gal barrel on a stand 4’ + above the pond to supply the drive pipe to the ram pump. I did see one of your video that you addressed this test but it was inconclusive. What are your thoughts? Larry
another way to start your 3/4" siphon is to add a gravity check valve that trips open only when the trickle has nearly filled the output side. A tiny vertical air bleed near the top may be necessary. Worked for years. Thanks for sharing.
I'm going to search for this on my own but would you happen to have a link? I think you describe a simpler solution to my backyard project using bucket and a toilet flapper and float to remove water from my winter pool cover. My prototype works. Thank you. Gary
You need a bell siphon and a containment of air. As the water level rises over the bell, the pocket of air confined in the pipe will be pressurized and forced out of the discharge pipe. Once most of the air is forced out, the siphon will start.
That is a good idea. The main thing that I was trying to do here was get a large siphon going with a low flowstart. The idea was to flush a large body of water with floating stuff in it by a low flow input. (duck pond, pig water trough)
I'm really into this, I'll be anxiously waiting each new video! I'm thinking on a slightly larger scale this could turn a turbine to trickle charge a battery for LED lights and phone charging at our off grid cabin.
I'd forgotten about this video. With 30 inches of head, I am putting in a system to irrigate about 4 acres. First, because of the topography, I really only have to irrigate 2 acres - water the high spots and low spots take care of themselves. This summer I'm running four 1 1/4 ram pumps (most Land To House) driving 23 Mini Wobbler sprinklers - so far the smallest light blue #4 nozzles are working best. Each of the four ram pumps drives 1 sprinkler at a time at about 1/2 gallon per minute. May not seem like much, but pumps running 24 x 7 made a noticable difference over previous years, even with a very dry year. This video may illustrate a possible alternative to manually rotating the flow to the sprinkler heads. Perhaps a series of 50 gallon or larger water storage containers that fill up from the output of ram pumps over time and then suddenly auto siphon to sprinklers. Perhaps the system could be tuned to deliver more water more frequently to drier areas. The output from the ram pumps may seem small compared to our other irrigation methods, however, in this very dry summer, as long as the ram pumps had an elevated puddle to draw from and a somewhat clean filter for the sprinklers, they pumped 24 X 7 delivering precisely delivered output. Thank you for the idea.
that is similar to a bell siphon... if you're not familiar with a bell siphon... check it out. also, my reservoir uses a siphon... but i pump up the same pipe... so the ram always fills the reservoir... providing a solid column of water... so when i turn on the valves... it always pulls siphon and flows. :)
Very fun concept! I will have to consider using the same inlet as the siphon exit. Yes I have actually helped to build a U siphon in a video years ago. After the last test with the U siphon I will be moving to the Bell.
gotchya... very nice... Yes, it's all test and experiment and learn and progress. I will probably be playing with bell siphons myself soon. I have a 4000 gallon pool as my ram reservoir now for storage. Time to set it up so it irrigates a section every time it fills. (about 4 days).
Yeah, When I was a kid we had a family farm in the Catskills. I spent my summers playing with old sap lines and gravity feeding fountains, solar heaters, and many other little experiments. For me, this sort of thing is just like being a kid again. I can't wait for the first dry spell after I get potatoes in... I will FLOOD them! :)
+The Farmacy Seeds Network that sounds like a good childhood and adulthood. :-) when I was a kid I just walked around catching turtles. Now that I'm a bigger kid I get to play in the water with pumps and siphons
question....if you made the top of the syphon into a loop ..with the top of the loop lower than the top of the syphon...would this create enough vacuum to draw and drain the pail...your low rate of water going in doesnt seem to plug the top of your present syphon with water so the air gets back in and just lets the input water flow out
So you mean instead of a U I should try a O ? making a full loop in the siphon to allow standing water to be in the bottom at all times? That might work unless the water never entered into the siphon.
yes...kinda like a curly piggy tail...top of first O part just like your U pipe goes up to level desired inside the pail...then another loop only going as 1/3 high as the first one and then another again not as high as the second and then about 2 foot length on a 45 degree angle downward
Good job checking the siphon with different diameter pipes and flow rates. Did you experience any problems with your siphon not stopping after the first pull while having a constant inlet flow rate? So that you can't get another second, third... siphon again?
i watched the shishi odoshi video when i got the notification and remember thinking yeah its cool but is it useful? now seeing this video all i can say is brilliant idea and keep up the good work mate 👍
I think in my setup I have around 6 feet of head pressure. I have the intake on the top part of my land. I cant get much more and keep the pump on that side of the road.
wow! very cool idea! You and Cody's Lab are now officially my favorite UA-camrs. but what was that syphon for again? cleanings out the ram pump intake right?
+Backyard Arsenal thank you. That means a lot. Most people use the u siphon for grow beds like an aquaponics system. My thoughts were it could clean out a small duck pond every 12 hours or so to keep it clean
@@LandtoHouse So you are going to put u syphon under duck pond to clean the pond, when pond reaches certain volume of water, it's going to dump all the water or some of the water. What's with Shishi Odoshi? What's the purpose of that? Don't you have ramp pump that feeds water to the pond 24/7.
This is all just fun testing. So the Usiphon needs a certain flow rate to start. The low flow of the ram pump did not reach that flow rate alone. BUT with the shishi odoshi and a sudden surge of water it worked. The issue is that a large pond would not be effected by that small shishi odoshi. . . . Just fun testing.
Hey could you add A pvc hand pump to the back side of your fountain it could give you more volume A swivel arm to pull A piston like the steam engine or water hammer there is A lot of surplus energy there I see it!
This is just a thought about why the 3/4 in pipe didn't start a syphon. Could it be that turbulence was created when the su-she-she (lol I have no idea how to pronounce it much less how to spell it) pipe dumped into the holding bucket? A syphon needs undisturbed water to sustain itself. A baffle or deeper take up tube might alleviate the problem if turbulence indeed was the problem. Also a longer discharge pipe would possibly create more suction to cause the syphon to start. Its all interesting experimenting whether it works or fails. ps is just reread your lead in and saw ShiShi Odoshi spelling.
Haha yes I had to look it up several times before I got the name right. Turbulence might make a big difference. It seems to be a common idea that the longer outlet pipe would increase the suction and make a better siphon. So many factors in a setup like this.
that would get water back up to the fountain but only around 10% of the water. The ram pump is very lossy to function without fuel or electricity. So after only 1 to 2 cycles of water the bucket would be empty.
I believe that there is a simple solution to your siphon problem. 1st. go back to the pee trap on the bottom. Off of the pee trap you add a piece of pipe at least 2ft. long, and incline it up, not down. That should increase the suction.
Land to House Thx ... great idea ... but then you also need a device to get the ducks alarmed (otherwise it might be tricky to clear the syphon of sucked in ducks ...😆)
In many systems we need a effective flow rate in order to avoid mineral and sludge sedimentation in pipes, which leads o various problems like microbiological growth inside pipe systems due to low flow rate.
this is a typical problem of thick drain pipes, because of the weak surface tension of water, the lower meniscus (the bottom surface of the water) breaks into small jets, and air - is divided into bubbles and rises up to the top of the turn, creating there atmospheric pressure, instead of discharging the escaping water column , in fact the water flowing down the wall of a thick pipe down does not differ from the absence of this pipe. Problem can be solved in many ways 1) reduce the diameter of the last, downward flowing water pipe, to a diameter of 2-3 mm, when the lower meniscus is stable, and the air can not rise in such a tube upward, as already occurs even in a 10mm hose. you can do them a lot, in parallel, a bunch, or just cut the same length of the piece, insert them inside the last thick pipe tightly, forming parallel tunnels, both in the subway for both directions of traffic, one common tunnel tube divided into independent sections of the roads back and forth, so you will save the performance and appearance of a thick pipe. but sometimes a thick bundle of thin tubes may not work either (if the friction in them is small and the thickness at the limit of spillage, like an inverted turn pours out unlike an inverted thin tube, as a balance is created - the balance of the two pillars, and you hold the scales a not water poles, there is more chance of success if you fill this pipe with cotton wool, thus reducing to the limit the diameter of the capillary tube 2) supplement the system with a water seal at the bottom, for example, lower the end of the pipe in a glass of water, so that when you start, once squeezed the air, letting it through the water in the glass, the pipe can no longer suck the air into itself, but only water from the glass, Instead of a glass, make a small turn on the end of the pipe, Yuturn - always remaining filled with water, and not allowing air to enter the system through the exhaust outlet 3) make a tip - a mesh that is moistened with water does not let the air in, ie make a constriction or many small holes at the end, the air will not pass through the layer of water left on them
also you will be interested to know that a thin tube (a capillary of 1mm in diameter or less) bent by turning as a sign is capable of capillary attraction itself, raising water by 10mm (if 1-2mm of the tube diameter) to reach it to the top and then downward, the capillary forces of the molecules glass (or plastic, but not Teflon-repellent water) tunnel tubes pull the meniscus like a blanket of water by the edges to themselves until they are covered, then the next, and so on, the force always depends (the diameter) of the pipe, and when the liquid rises by 1 cm in 2mm tube, then it's up 2mm in the tube is twice as thin as 1mm diameter, and if you put it horizontally, the tube will pull the water by force, say 1 milligram, unlimitedly far (all slower due to friction and the length of the train) until it reaches the height of the water column, everything is the same, 2cm in 1mm diameter tube after reaching the top - a turn, the water in the capillary is reversed and then the capillary pulling pulls it downward, with decreasing height (lowering and not lifting the meniscus), everything is easier and faster. This does not allow the water to be poured into a higher water level. After filling the capillary, it becomes analogous to a simple pipe, because glass walls stick to the water and keep it not letting it out, it only flows if the inlet level is higher than the end-of-the-way and the usual siphon, but here we can for example taking a hose, filling it with cotton, and putting the machines in the gas tank, and the second end in the bucket is lower - standing on the ground, we see how the liquid permeates the entire watt, and drips from the very bottom end of the piece of watt - the hose that is lowered into the bucket, this is not free energy, the suction force will have to be applied to pour what permeated the cotton wool, you can compare it with the free lifting of nails with a powerful magnet, tear off the magnet raised - you will have to ... and it is nnot best idea to make holes for rotation in jar, that need only fixation, better some kind of boudage ---O---
i invented old one invention in new style. it was mercury wacuum pump, about 1 meter high, due to 760mm=0.76meter of mercury coloumn -gives one atmosphere pressure or discharge if you on the upper end of pipe. with water you need 10meters for one bar - 13.2 times longer tube, of 13 times light liquid - water instead of mercury... and some more simple solution maybe there: if you send water down with long pipe - 15meters, on the botom of that pipe with water, you will get 1.5 extra pressure of water coloumn,( 0bar_cosmicspace + 1bar_of_atmosphere + 1.5bar_from_15meters_of water_vertical_pressure ), if you will close upper end, and open bottom end of pipe, you will get wacuum on the upper closed end, now connect to the upper "in"-end of pipe T-connector(used to connect for 3 pipes together),and connect to 2 free "in"(third terminal you already send down by 15m long pipe) of T-connnector two walves(regulators, simple - from medical infusion dropping system, or any better), one regulator - will regulate your new lovely vacuum, when it open - bypass, vacuum fast but not stronng - like ventilation, for taking solvent vapours away, or clean some unneded water from your floor, like good vacuum cleaner can act with liquids., if you close vacuum valve almost completely,it will work slowly but surely, will not be exhausted, will give a deep vacuum of about 1/100 atmospheric pressure - residual - the pressure of saturated water vapor at room temperature, as well as a water jet pump(usual chemical water jet pump (for tap water, that provided inn homes usually at about 4bar pressure in water supply net) type 10-20$ glass(brokes easy) or better plastic or metalic). second "in" of T connector(really, that is a mixer of incomming air-wacuum with water, poured down through the pipe) with valve, connect by pipe to shower tap,or even just bucket of water, standing on the floor, wacuum will pull water in system automatically(after initiall filling, for start flowing down, only ones if it dry) through water supply pipe to waterflow-rate-valve and it will fill down-flow main pipe, also - open bypass means more water flow-down fast, and wacuum weak( -1/3 bar=residue 0.66atmospheric pressure as result) you need (everywhere in system) to use vacuum pipes, otherwise it will collaps, and self stopping, pressed by atmospheric pressure in to film without internal chanel, you need some kind of wacuum tube, like Spiral Reinforced PVC Suction Hose, or usuall hose with one or two rope insight, ropes will save pass chanel(tunel) even if you stand or sit on pipe. and you need a receiver - buffer on exhaust "OUT" end of main pipe, for example -plastic bag with 0.5Liter water capacity, on the lower end of long pipe, if some water will mistakenly spills out of the hose of this system, and stops hanging, giving a vacuum, at the next moment, the system can oscillating equilibrium, suck up all the water of the buffer-packet, even better-without several air bubbles, thus restoring productivity and vacuum in the system, and not losing Working fluid slowly replenished by our dropper of water from the bucket near the tee of the hoses. I live on the 9th floor, and for the dough, I hung the hose from the window down, on a fishing rod. 2m from the house - unattainable and does not interfere with residents, and not reaching the 3m to the ground - unattainable passers-by, watering the flower beds, the smell of water can be harmful, but it does not attract anyone
Or something like this that seems to be a bell and type of U siphon in one. It seems to prime the chamber with pressure as apposed to waiting for the water to flow over the lip. ua-cam.com/video/5wZ9PQepQYI/v-deo.html
The tiny ram pump needs to have a pressure wave that travels in both the uphill and downhill directions. So yes the ram pump will work with the siphon but it will be better to connect it directly to the bottom of the bucket.
+Holistic Advocate my next round of testing will be with the Bell siphon. Hopefully I'll be able to answer that question with results. My first thought is that the U siphon is easier to build.
Your videos are the first I have seen of the USiphon. I like the idea of using it outside of the container you are trying to drain (or maintain a level in).
+Matt Tolman sure. My thoughts are for cleaning out a dirty duck pond each time it reached full from the ram pump. Most people use these in hydroponics systems because the plant roots cannot sit underwater for long. Flood and flush is the concept there.
Why not use a bell-siphon? It can be adjusted to have large start-flow even if the in-put out-put rate is slow. Also - Incorrect on the plant-root/water thing. Plant-roots can remain totally submerged day-in, day-out:: Proviso that there is plenty of oxygen in the water. This is called flow-through, or tray hydroponics and is the primary commercial approach. Large commercial systems do not use flood-drain systems. No need to.
+Vedrfolnir the Bell siphon is next on the list for testing. I already have the parts. I don't know much about hydroponics or aquaponics. I had heard that the roots needed air and flushing was the easiest way.
Not Air, strictly speaking. Oxygen. This to promote aerobic, nitrogen fixing bacteria and specifically squelch/limit anaerobic bacteria (which can produce plant-poisons). The flood-drain method of hydroponics/aquaponics is a stop-gap solution to oxygenation for an incomplete system design. i.e. A system operated without a proper aeration unit. Commercial indoor-plant farms do not use flood-drain systems because they are a clumsy way of managing your water capacity. That being said, the bell-siphon mechanism is nicely compact (single column and internal ) and will do exactly what you have demonstrated:: Self-priming, Self-stopping, can be adjusted(designed) to trigger off of slow-inflows.
I imagine that the stop go method of growing is for those who cannot afford to get the aeration units. Price of a bell siphon is a lot better than a pump I have a feeling.
What about having the shishi odoshi pour more directly into the siphon instead of into the large bucket (duck pond). That way the rise in level will be more dramatic... (Picture: michaelkapsner.blogspot.com/2017/04/an-idea-for-siphon-starter.html)
+Michael Kapsner that is a really great design. Basically the smaller bucket only starts the siphon and then pulls from the big tank. My only concern would be once the small bucket is out of water if air would be pulled into the siphon and stop the system.
Hummm, as in venturi effect? Or something else? I wonder.... Shoot, any chance this will end up on your 'try it out' list? I'm somewhat curious, but not sure if it's enough to tip the balance to add another thing to my list :-)
+Michael Kapsner I have added this to the list :) my thoughts were that the small bucket would run out of water way before the duck pond and if the two were connected at the siphon it might stop before the duck pond was empty. Well worth a test.
I was disappointed to read your comment - because there is a very good chance you are right and I thought my idea was such a good one ;-). Back in the day we had a waterbed and with the mattress came a device to drain the water without using a siphon. It was a 'T' that screwed into the mattress with fittings to connect two hoses; one to the garden faucet and the other as waste. The water flowing from the faucet to the waste was suppose to pick up water from the mattress and pull it along to drain it. Perhaps the rate of flow and pressures involved here will change the behavior as home water pressure is ~45lbs and I am thinking that in this gravity system with a short head it will be much less. It will be interesting to see...
That waterbed idea makes sense. The tap water is never ending and does not have air in it. That is why it was able to basically start the siphon from the mattress and keep it going until the end.
I have a better improved design for your siphon if you're still doing this. Instead of doing a U siphon, do an M siphon. I'll get you a linky. Here: ua-cam.com/video/4SEv_GxAo70/v-deo.html
Oh I have seen that video. I like that it is such great info yet so simple. I think the M siphon needs that plunge to get it started. That is a great way to get a siphon started but not that great for a stationary system.
What he is trying to accomplish? A continuous siphon won't work once the level of the water goes below the bend of the output. It's just like a toilet bend. He still has water in the tube below the bucket bottom level. it did not siphon all of it out.
My goal was to find out if a ram pump overflow could fill a duck pond and then use an automatic siphon to drain that pond every time it filled to the top. Just some fun tests.
Get your own Ram Pump at Land To House:
www.landtohouse.com/rampumpsales/
I think a good idea..specially if you need a burst of water when you want it...but your total volume will only be what's going into your tank...thanks...
This is the true free energy concept thanks you gave me the idea of Free Energy
Neat test. key feature of an auto-siphon is much more downpipes to uppipes, your plumbing has them almost at parity. And the last down pipe is about 1/2 the cross sectional area.
Very good experiments
Thanks from India
I wonder if you were to decrease the diameter of the storage tank, causing the water level to rise faster, the siphon may fill quickly enough to start with only the flow from the ram pump. I love the practical science in your videos, keep inventing cool stuff man!
I have a question for you watching your videos is it possible to hook a ram pump to a siphon pump so you have a pond you can drain or siphon from hook it up to ramp up to stead of letting it drain into a ditch that you can use it to push water up the hill thank you God bless
Awesome 👏 I’m off to watch the next one 👍
That was a clever solution and a good demo. Thanks Seth. Looking forward to your bell siphon adventure.
+Oldman Winter thank you. After I test out one last thing on the u siphon I plan on moving to the Bell siphon.
The vacuum is created in the longer drop tube which is open near the lower u with the 1/2 where as, the 3/4 was too short to create the vacuum needed to cause a Sifon action to occur . Long vs short drop leg, I believe made the differences...... ?
Can you please show us how it could work on getting water from a pond up enough to create a little waterfall? I wonder if it would be possible to place the little end of the hose at the mouth of the future waterfall where it would eventually spill into the pond and fake the fall of the water for a bit with a bucket and eventually when it starts working on it's own it will work continuously? 😅 Am I completely insane or could that work?
Seth, my question is what is your recommendation for our situation? We have a pond with very little fall (maybe one foot) we purchased one of your medium 1” ram pumps recently. We need the pump to give us 10’ of rise. My thought is to create a siphon by putting a 55 gal barrel on a stand 4’ + above the pond to supply the drive pipe to the ram pump. I did see one of your video that you addressed this test but it was inconclusive. What are your thoughts? Larry
another way to start your 3/4" siphon is to add a gravity check valve that trips open only when the trickle has nearly filled the output side. A tiny vertical air bleed near the top may be necessary. Worked for years. Thanks for sharing.
I'm going to search for this on my own but would you happen to have a link? I think you describe a simpler solution to my backyard project using bucket and a toilet flapper and float to remove water from my winter pool cover. My prototype works.
Thank you.
Gary
I need to remember to use the bathroom before watching your videos with water LOL
+Xsiner ha ha there was a lot of splashing going on.
Hello new to this ram pun.. why is this method needed??
You need a bell siphon and a containment of air. As the water level rises over the bell, the pocket of air confined in the pipe will be pressurized and forced out of the discharge pipe. Once most of the air is forced out, the siphon will start.
That a good idea to collect small water into a big power water for ram pump, thank you
It seemed to work well. Thank you for watching.
Add another U siphon. Its like you said, the 2nd siphon will trigger the main siphon.
I really like those water dynamics videos, good show!
Thank you. I have enjoyed them too!
Why not use a trickle siphon? Like in self flushing urinals. They are designed to auto-start from a low volume input.
That is a good idea. The main thing that I was trying to do here was get a large siphon going with a low flowstart. The idea was to flush a large body of water with floating stuff in it by a low flow input. (duck pond, pig water trough)
I'm really into this, I'll be anxiously waiting each new video! I'm thinking on a slightly larger scale this could turn a turbine to trickle charge a battery for LED lights and phone charging at our off grid cabin.
Yes if you ran the ram pump to a large holding tank and then let the siphon pull the tank dry it could supply a large water flow to a turbine.
I wonder if you could nozzle the siphon?
+Nelson Miller that's kind of what I did reducing from 3/4" to 1/2" to 3/8". It would hinder the flow rate of larger debris.
I'd forgotten about this video. With 30 inches of head, I am putting in a system to irrigate about 4 acres.
First, because of the topography, I really only have to irrigate 2 acres - water the high spots and low spots take care of themselves.
This summer I'm running four 1 1/4 ram pumps (most Land To House) driving 23 Mini Wobbler sprinklers - so far the smallest light blue #4 nozzles are working best. Each of the four ram pumps drives 1 sprinkler at a time at about 1/2 gallon per minute. May not seem like much, but pumps running 24 x 7 made a noticable difference over previous years, even with a very dry year.
This video may illustrate a possible alternative to manually rotating the flow to the sprinkler heads. Perhaps a series of 50 gallon or larger water storage containers that fill up from the output of ram pumps over time and then suddenly auto siphon to sprinklers. Perhaps the system could be tuned to deliver more water more frequently to drier areas. The output from the ram pumps may seem small compared to our other irrigation methods, however, in this very dry summer, as long as the ram pumps had an elevated puddle to draw from and a somewhat clean filter for the sprinklers, they pumped 24 X 7 delivering precisely delivered output.
Thank you for the idea.
Dave my new 2021 patented amplified ram pump (ramplified) can lift 30m using 50cm drive head
Hi guys our new 2021 patented amplified ram pump (ramplified) can lift 30m using 50cm drive head
What's the purpose of the siphon, what would it be used for? I may have missed a video?
The idea was to flush a dirty duck pond with low input.
very interisting for the flow control... thanks good Idea. CHRI. France
if you would just add one more 90 elbow at the output of the 3/4 or 1 inch, it will stop the air entering the tube and killing your syphon.
+Clark Miles I did that in my previous test and it does work. But I was trying to get the basic u siphon to start with a very low flow.
Just wondering what is the use of this siphon?
that is similar to a bell siphon... if you're not familiar with a bell siphon... check it out.
also, my reservoir uses a siphon... but i pump up the same pipe... so the ram always fills the reservoir... providing a solid column of water... so when i turn on the valves... it always pulls siphon and flows.
:)
Very fun concept! I will have to consider using the same inlet as the siphon exit. Yes I have actually helped to build a U siphon in a video years ago. After the last test with the U siphon I will be moving to the Bell.
gotchya... very nice... Yes, it's all test and experiment and learn and progress. I will probably be playing with bell siphons myself soon. I have a 4000 gallon pool as my ram reservoir now for storage. Time to set it up so it irrigates a section every time it fills. (about 4 days).
+The Farmacy Seeds Network 4000 gallons is a nice water storage! Very cool way to irrigate!
Yeah, When I was a kid we had a family farm in the Catskills. I spent my summers playing with old sap lines and gravity feeding fountains, solar heaters, and many other little experiments. For me, this sort of thing is just like being a kid again. I can't wait for the first dry spell after I get potatoes in... I will FLOOD them! :)
+The Farmacy Seeds Network that sounds like a good childhood and adulthood. :-) when I was a kid I just walked around catching turtles. Now that I'm a bigger kid I get to play in the water with pumps and siphons
Ram pump and siphoning back to back make perpetual motion machine or not ???
question....if you made the top of the syphon into a loop ..with the top of the loop lower than the top of the syphon...would this create enough vacuum to draw and drain the pail...your low rate of water going in doesnt seem to plug the top of your present syphon with water so the air gets back in and just lets the input water flow out
So you mean instead of a U I should try a O ? making a full loop in the siphon to allow standing water to be in the bottom at all times? That might work unless the water never entered into the siphon.
yes...kinda like a curly piggy tail...top of first O part just like your U pipe goes up to level desired inside the pail...then another loop only going as 1/3 high as the first one and then another again not as high as the second and then about 2 foot length on a 45 degree angle downward
+swany that is a fine idea. I will have to write that one down and give it a try.
Take me to the river
And wash me down
Won't you cleanse my soul?
Put my feet on the ground😁
'Rev. Al Green'
Cover by Billy Bass. 🦀
Good job checking the siphon with different diameter pipes and flow rates. Did you experience any problems with your siphon not stopping after the first pull while having a constant inlet flow rate? So that you can't get another second, third... siphon again?
Sometimes that would happen. If the inflow was too weak then there would be a never ending flow out the siphon.
i watched the shishi odoshi video when i got the notification and remember thinking yeah its cool but is it useful? now seeing this video all i can say is brilliant idea and keep up the good work mate 👍
+jakebarlow100 I figured it world work And it did! More volume would be required for that 3/4" pipe.
Land to House
yes and also added weight will also get more water volume pumped UP. ...
how much head elevation from intake to pump?
I think in my setup I have around 6 feet of head pressure. I have the intake on the top part of my land. I cant get much more and keep the pump on that side of the road.
wow! very cool idea! You and Cody's Lab are now officially my favorite UA-camrs.
but what was that syphon for again?
cleanings out the ram pump intake right?
+Backyard Arsenal thank you. That means a lot. Most people use the u siphon for grow beds like an aquaponics system. My thoughts were it could clean out a small duck pond every 12 hours or so to keep it clean
Oh ok! Cool idea.
@@LandtoHouse So you are going to put u syphon under duck pond to clean the pond, when pond reaches certain volume of water, it's going to dump all the water or some of the water. What's with Shishi Odoshi? What's the purpose of that? Don't you have ramp pump that feeds water to the pond 24/7.
This is all just fun testing. So the Usiphon needs a certain flow rate to start. The low flow of the ram pump did not reach that flow rate alone. BUT with the shishi odoshi and a sudden surge of water it worked. The issue is that a large pond would not be effected by that small shishi odoshi. . . . Just fun testing.
Hey could you add A pvc hand pump to the back side of your fountain it could give you more volume A swivel arm to pull A piston like the steam engine or water hammer there is A lot of surplus energy there I see it!
Yes you could add a pump or piston to that fountain. It would have to be a small one in this setup but in a larger setup it could do some nice work.
This is just a thought about why the 3/4 in pipe didn't start a syphon. Could it be that turbulence was created when the su-she-she (lol I have no idea how to pronounce it much less how to spell it) pipe dumped into the holding bucket? A syphon needs undisturbed water to sustain itself. A baffle or deeper take up tube might alleviate the problem if turbulence indeed was the problem. Also a longer discharge pipe would possibly create more suction to cause the syphon to start. Its all interesting experimenting whether it works or fails. ps is just reread your lead in and saw ShiShi Odoshi spelling.
Haha yes I had to look it up several times before I got the name right. Turbulence might make a big difference. It seems to be a common idea that the longer outlet pipe would increase the suction and make a better siphon. So many factors in a setup like this.
Could this be made self contained so the siphon fills the Shishi Odoshi fountain??
Sadly no. The siphon only pulls downhill. It does not have the power to go back up to the bucket.
So then a small ram pump instead of the siphon?
that would get water back up to the fountain but only around 10% of the water. The ram pump is very lossy to function without fuel or electricity. So after only 1 to 2 cycles of water the bucket would be empty.
I believe that there is a simple solution to your siphon problem.
1st. go back to the pee trap on the bottom.
Off of the pee trap you add a piece of pipe at least 2ft. long, and incline it up, not down.
That should increase the suction.
What bout using a bell siphon!
You know what else would drain that elevated bucket really fast is a hole.
It sure is interesting ... but are there specific applications for draining something with a u syphon?
+St Bu typically an aquaponics system. My thoughts were to Auto clean a duck pond.
Land to House Thx ... great idea ... but then you also need a device to get the ducks alarmed (otherwise it might be tricky to clear the syphon of sucked in ducks ...😆)
haha that would be funny. A home made duck catcher.
In many systems we need a effective flow rate in order to avoid mineral and sludge sedimentation in pipes, which leads o various problems like microbiological growth inside pipe systems due to low flow rate.
That makes sense. The fast flow rate would help to flush the system from that unwanted sludge.
this is a typical problem of thick drain pipes, because of the weak surface tension of water, the lower meniscus (the bottom surface of the water) breaks into small jets, and air - is divided into bubbles and rises up to the top of the turn, creating there atmospheric pressure, instead of discharging the escaping water column , in fact the water flowing down the wall of a thick pipe down does not differ from the absence of this pipe. Problem can be solved in many ways
1) reduce the diameter of the last, downward flowing water pipe, to a diameter of 2-3 mm, when the lower meniscus is stable, and the air can not rise in such a tube upward, as already occurs even in a 10mm hose.
you can do them a lot, in parallel, a bunch, or just cut the same length of the piece, insert them inside the last thick pipe tightly, forming parallel tunnels, both in the subway for both directions of traffic, one common tunnel tube divided into independent sections of the roads back and forth, so you will save the performance and appearance of a thick pipe.
but sometimes a thick bundle of thin tubes may not work either (if the friction in them is small and the thickness at the limit of spillage, like an inverted turn pours out unlike an inverted thin tube, as a balance is created - the balance of the two pillars, and you hold the scales a not water poles, there is more chance of success if you fill this pipe with cotton wool, thus reducing to the limit the diameter of the capillary tube
2) supplement the system with a water seal at the bottom, for example, lower the end of the pipe in a glass of water, so that when you start, once squeezed the air, letting it through the water in the glass, the pipe can no longer suck the air into itself, but only water from the glass, Instead of a glass, make a small turn on the end of the pipe, Yuturn - always remaining filled with water, and not allowing air to enter the system through the exhaust outlet
3) make a tip - a mesh that is moistened with water does not let the air in, ie make a constriction or many small holes at the end, the air will not pass through the layer of water left on them
also you will be interested to know that a thin tube (a capillary of 1mm in diameter or less) bent by turning as a sign is capable of capillary attraction itself, raising water by 10mm (if 1-2mm of the tube diameter) to reach it to the top and then downward, the capillary forces of the molecules glass (or plastic, but not Teflon-repellent water) tunnel tubes pull the meniscus like a blanket of water by the edges to themselves until they are covered, then the next, and so on, the force always depends (the diameter) of the pipe, and when the liquid rises by 1 cm in 2mm tube, then it's up 2mm in the tube is twice as thin as 1mm diameter, and if you put it horizontally, the tube will pull the water by force, say 1 milligram, unlimitedly far (all slower due to friction and the length of the train) until it reaches the height of the water column, everything is the same, 2cm in 1mm diameter tube
after reaching the top - a turn, the water in the capillary is reversed and then the capillary pulling pulls it downward, with decreasing height (lowering and not lifting the meniscus), everything is easier and faster.
This does not allow the water to be poured into a higher water level. After filling the capillary, it becomes analogous to a simple pipe, because glass walls stick to the water and keep it not letting it out, it only flows if the inlet level is higher than the end-of-the-way and the usual siphon, but here we can for example taking a hose, filling it with cotton, and putting the machines in the gas tank, and the second end in the bucket is lower - standing on the ground, we see how the liquid permeates the entire watt, and drips from the very bottom end of the piece of watt - the hose that is lowered into the bucket,
this is not free energy, the suction force will have to be applied to pour what permeated the cotton wool, you can compare it with the free lifting of nails with a powerful magnet, tear off the magnet raised - you will have to ...
and it is nnot best idea to make holes for rotation in jar, that need only fixation, better some kind of boudage ---O---
i invented old one invention in new style. it was mercury wacuum pump, about 1 meter high, due to 760mm=0.76meter of mercury coloumn -gives one atmosphere pressure or discharge if you on the upper end of pipe. with water you need 10meters for one bar - 13.2 times longer tube, of 13 times light liquid - water instead of mercury... and some more simple solution maybe there:
if you send water down with long pipe - 15meters, on the botom of that pipe with water, you will get 1.5 extra pressure of water coloumn,( 0bar_cosmicspace + 1bar_of_atmosphere + 1.5bar_from_15meters_of water_vertical_pressure ), if you will close upper end, and open bottom end of pipe, you will get wacuum on the upper closed end, now connect to the upper "in"-end of pipe T-connector(used to connect for 3 pipes together),and connect to 2 free "in"(third terminal you already send down by 15m long pipe) of T-connnector two walves(regulators, simple - from medical infusion dropping system, or any better), one regulator - will regulate your new lovely vacuum, when it open - bypass, vacuum fast but not stronng - like ventilation, for taking solvent vapours away, or clean some unneded water from your floor, like good vacuum cleaner can act with liquids., if you close vacuum valve almost completely,it will work slowly but surely, will not be exhausted, will give a deep vacuum of about 1/100 atmospheric pressure - residual - the pressure of saturated water vapor at room temperature, as well as a water jet pump(usual chemical water jet pump (for tap water, that provided inn homes usually at about 4bar pressure in water supply net) type 10-20$ glass(brokes easy) or better plastic or metalic).
second "in" of T connector(really, that is a mixer of incomming air-wacuum with water, poured down through the pipe) with valve, connect by pipe to shower tap,or even just bucket of water, standing on the floor, wacuum will pull water in system automatically(after initiall filling, for start flowing down, only ones if it dry) through water supply pipe to waterflow-rate-valve and it will fill down-flow main pipe, also - open bypass means more water flow-down fast, and wacuum weak( -1/3 bar=residue 0.66atmospheric pressure as result)
you need (everywhere in system) to use vacuum pipes, otherwise it will collaps, and self stopping, pressed by atmospheric pressure in to film without internal chanel, you need some kind of wacuum tube, like Spiral Reinforced PVC Suction Hose, or usuall hose with one or two rope insight, ropes will save pass chanel(tunel) even if you stand or sit on pipe.
and you need a receiver - buffer on exhaust "OUT" end of main pipe, for example -plastic bag with 0.5Liter water capacity, on the lower end of long pipe, if some water will
mistakenly spills out of the hose of this system, and stops hanging, giving a vacuum, at the next moment, the system can oscillating equilibrium, suck up all the water of the buffer-packet, even better-without several air bubbles, thus restoring productivity and vacuum in the system, and not losing Working fluid slowly replenished by our dropper of water from the bucket near the tee of the hoses.
I live on the 9th floor, and for the dough, I hung the hose from the window down, on a fishing rod. 2m from the house - unattainable and does not interfere with residents, and not reaching the 3m to the ground - unattainable passers-by, watering the flower beds, the smell of water can be harmful, but it does not attract anyone
Nice sun glass bro. You need the head bro.Why not put rocks in the bucket
I think this is where the bell siphon might work better =P
You are probably right!
=P
Or something like this that seems to be a bell and type of U siphon in one. It seems to prime the chamber with pressure as apposed to waiting for the water to flow over the lip. ua-cam.com/video/5wZ9PQepQYI/v-deo.html
I like that video. Someday I will get back to these tests. Thank you for sharing.
Anytime! Take care
or you could divide the flow into two lines and fill two shishi-odoshis
rry the u siphon with the ram pump for more head pressure on the 3/8 ram pump that will work
The tiny ram pump needs to have a pressure wave that travels in both the uphill and downhill directions. So yes the ram pump will work with the siphon but it will be better to connect it directly to the bottom of the bucket.
you will still get the ram effect with the siphon it will go faster and pump more water
good
Thank you.
Where would this be better than a bell siphon?
+Holistic Advocate my next round of testing will be with the Bell siphon. Hopefully I'll be able to answer that question with results. My first thought is that the U siphon is easier to build.
Your videos are the first I have seen of the USiphon.
I like the idea of using it outside of the container you are trying to drain (or maintain a level in).
it seems like it works well that way. I am looking forward to testing the bell in the same bucket and see if it performs better.
Having a hard time seeing the use. Can you help me out.
+Matt Tolman sure. My thoughts are for cleaning out a dirty duck pond each time it reached full from the ram pump. Most people use these in hydroponics systems because the plant roots cannot sit underwater for long. Flood and flush is the concept there.
Why not use a bell-siphon? It can be adjusted to have large start-flow even if the in-put out-put rate is slow.
Also - Incorrect on the plant-root/water thing. Plant-roots can remain totally submerged day-in, day-out:: Proviso that there is plenty of oxygen in the water. This is called flow-through, or tray hydroponics and is the primary commercial approach. Large commercial systems do not use flood-drain systems. No need to.
+Vedrfolnir the Bell siphon is next on the list for testing. I already have the parts. I don't know much about hydroponics or aquaponics. I had heard that the roots needed air and flushing was the easiest way.
Not Air, strictly speaking. Oxygen. This to promote aerobic, nitrogen fixing bacteria and specifically squelch/limit anaerobic bacteria (which can produce plant-poisons). The flood-drain method of hydroponics/aquaponics is a stop-gap solution to oxygenation for an incomplete system design. i.e. A system operated without a proper aeration unit. Commercial indoor-plant farms do not use flood-drain systems because they are a clumsy way of managing your water capacity. That being said, the bell-siphon mechanism is nicely compact (single column and internal ) and will do exactly what you have demonstrated:: Self-priming, Self-stopping, can be adjusted(designed) to trigger off of slow-inflows.
I imagine that the stop go method of growing is for those who cannot afford to get the aeration units. Price of a bell siphon is a lot better than a pump I have a feeling.
What about having the shishi odoshi pour more directly into the siphon instead of into the large bucket (duck pond). That way the rise in level will be more dramatic... (Picture: michaelkapsner.blogspot.com/2017/04/an-idea-for-siphon-starter.html)
+Michael Kapsner that is a really great design. Basically the smaller bucket only starts the siphon and then pulls from the big tank. My only concern would be once the small bucket is out of water if air would be pulled into the siphon and stop the system.
Hummm, as in venturi effect? Or something else? I wonder.... Shoot, any chance this will end up on your 'try it out' list? I'm somewhat curious, but not sure if it's enough to tip the balance to add another thing to my list :-)
+Michael Kapsner I have added this to the list :) my thoughts were that the small bucket would run out of water way before the duck pond and if the two were connected at the siphon it might stop before the duck pond was empty. Well worth a test.
I was disappointed to read your comment - because there is a very good chance you are right and I thought my idea was such a good one ;-). Back in the day we had a waterbed and with the mattress came a device to drain the water without using a siphon. It was a 'T' that screwed into the mattress with fittings to connect two hoses; one to the garden faucet and the other as waste. The water flowing from the faucet to the waste was suppose to pick up water from the mattress and pull it along to drain it. Perhaps the rate of flow and pressures involved here will change the behavior as home water pressure is ~45lbs and I am thinking that in this gravity system with a short head it will be much less. It will be interesting to see...
That waterbed idea makes sense. The tap water is never ending and does not have air in it. That is why it was able to basically start the siphon from the mattress and keep it going until the end.
I guess in away this is how a commode works
Yes very much like that.
I have a better improved design for your siphon if you're still doing this. Instead of doing a U siphon, do an M siphon. I'll get you a linky. Here: ua-cam.com/video/4SEv_GxAo70/v-deo.html
Oh I have seen that video. I like that it is such great info yet so simple. I think the M siphon needs that plunge to get it started. That is a great way to get a siphon started but not that great for a stationary system.
What he is trying to accomplish? A continuous siphon won't work once the level of the water goes below the bend of the output. It's just like a toilet bend. He still has water in the tube below the bucket bottom level. it did not siphon all of it out.
My goal was to find out if a ram pump overflow could fill a duck pond and then use an automatic siphon to drain that pond every time it filled to the top. Just some fun tests.
Какой-то чел нахлобучил тёмные, как у кота Базилио, очки и шпарит что-то не по нашему .
jollll
o cara gastou uma nota em conexões de pvc e não obteve nsda de interessante
in spanish please friends good vide
I only speak English sadly.
ok. I AM SORRY SHOWS WHAT PART BY PART AND SLOWER THANKS YOU. THE CALI COLOMBIA GOOD
I am happy that you liked the video.
Mksde opo rajelas
look at urinal siphons, bigclivedotcom done a tare down of 1. very hard to replicate but might give you an idea
+MN SHP looks like the urinal siphon is just a standard bell siphon. I will be working with those next.
Another very useful nothing.
The concept was to drain a dirty duck pond every time it was full.
Paused. Gota pee.
Yes most of my videos end up in the water.
,
Вообще ничо не понятно!!!!
Шиши дичи только понял и то не очень
🤣🤣🤣🤣
This was a fun test.
You know all the results prehand but you intentionally lengthen the videos to waste our time,you are such a mean person.
haha thanks for watching. I actually filmed my first test on most of these. So you and I were getting the info at the same time.
👎👎👎👎👎
Generatore Za elettrica energija
Turbine
jollll
Agus Bekti