@@RJTheBikeGuy yes luckily for me my bike is a " own brand " type with a multi purpose generic frame with all kinds of mounts all over it so the company brand can add or take off whatever specs they need for the price range
Great job, I’ve watched this twice now lol but I the only problem I might have is I have to use the axle that’s in the bike now because it’s a Bafang motor. Do you think I would get away with out that fancy needle.
love this video. i understand half the comments are saying just buy a new frame - those are people who dont like to tinker around and engineer solutions. the other half loves to make things work the way they want them to without buying tailor-made products.. i think as a man you want to make it your own way. i respect that.
Ahhh such a joy to see that I'm not the only person adapting oldschool frames into a brazenly capable, and overtly enjoyable peddler with which you can't help but feel proud to be seen riding!
This isn't making it more capable. Its just making it into a death trap. Just get better calipers and pads instead of risking catastrophic failure with these hack jobs.
@@screwb1882 i agree; i love a good kludge or weird retro-mod adaptation, generally speaking, but these janky disc-brake conversions are always under-performing, and often dangerous.
I'm glad RJ took the time and effort to convert an older Trek 820 to disc brakes. For me however, I would just bolt up a front disc brake assembly to a newer style front fork. Then go with a larger front tire for trail riding.
I considered doing this briefly on my 90's KHS MTB frame, but in the end just went with a different frame. It was far cheaper and easier to just get a frame with disc mounts and transfer parts over, than to try to adapt the left seat/chainstays for a disc brake. For awhile I actually ran a front disc brake on a Nashbar steel height-corrected fork, with the rear V-brake. After building up the bike on the other frame, I went back and re-built the KHS bike with mostly spare parts, and went back to V-brakes on it. With KoolStop pads it still has awesome braking performance, and I use it mostly as a gravel/pavement adventure bike.
Absolutely agree - I bought a reasonable quality aluminium frame on eBay for £5 with a usable headset and broken fork, and a good steel fork for £30. That's as much as a pair of the better quality adapter brackets will cost, but with no concerns about whether the frame will be strong enough, and no need to modify my "classic" rim-brake bike. As for "paying to get the wheels rebuilt", why not do it yourselves, people? If you're competent to be working on brakes you should be able to manage a spoke key.
Snippy comment. They need to go away and are best considered a consumable. I still wince at it though and take them down out of reverence, taking too long to toss them.
A real bike mechanic can make cable discs work fine, (average Joe's are somewhat clueless) and you have full control of how much lever/cable play you want. And wont rip a line off in the woods.
@@hemisuperzee1287 even the average slightly ham-fisted home mechanic can make mechanical discs work awesome, if you use BB7s and compressionless housing.
Excellent timing. I've been planning this conversion for the last few months. The hard part is knowing which parts are right for "your" job. Loved the video, thanks.
Thanks for the vid! After watching it I've learned that another simpler and cheaper option would be to give your old bike away and buy a new one with the brakes you like. Thanks again!
In reality, it's probably not worth all the efforts to do such an upgrade on this old steel frame and add on so much weight... however, the knowledge here is splendid. I could learn a ton from this video. Thanks for spreading the gold! You are the man!
I love this video. It reminds me of most of my projects I do around the house. You start out with a goal and the scope changes when you really get in to the project. Re-tiling the bathroom turns in to "Well I really should replace this sub-floor before I put the new tile down."
Like me the other day, little bit of lining wallpaper was lifting at the seam beside my shower no doubt due to the steamy air. So I lifted it a little bit more, stuck some paste/glue under, then used a seam roller and it was nice and flat again. Then painted over it with a little of the original paint as I had a decent bit left (I made sure to mix it well) to make it "perfect". Next day I could see this little bit dried a *slightly* different shade which annoyed me (probably others wouldn't notice) .. so ...... .. By time I'd finished I'd got the rollers out and redone the entire wall ... so much for a quick non messy job ;)
a 50 minute video from RJ - brilliant thats my evening sorted. Did the same with a old Specialized frame many years ago. Used a spare fork to sort the front and the A2Z bracket on the rear and it also wouldn't sit flat, so I took into work and machined it to fit. Sold the bike eventually and the owner still uses it every day. Great video as always RJ.
I love everyone saying 'just buy a new frame, its cheaper' they're kinda missing the point, its just about messing with old bikes and experimenting. Some people might enjoy fettling with bikes more than actually riding them, or they mightn't be able to get a new frame or a whole myriad of other reasons. Just enjoy RJ doing crazy things to old bikes, people
It isn't misleading. "Convert Mountain Bike To Disc Brakes With No Frame/Fork Mounts" If you don't have a fork that will work, you have to find one that will. He basically said that at the end of the video.
Front Disc is enough for most purposes as that's like 70%+ of breaking. And brother you do not want disc brake that complains. This will bother u every time you ride until you fix'em or commit bikecide/suicide. So, stay w/ a V-brake rear and get a new front fork.
Im English living in Spain and I love your everyman teaching style. Sadly I am getting old and I find you speak so quickly I just cannot keep up. Having said that I was a teacher of vocational studies in the UK so I can say with my hand on my heart you and us all would actually benefit from a slower presentation. Anyway. I really appreciate your hard work and what I have learnt despite my struggle. Good Luck and thank you.
You can quickly set the speed from 25% to 200% in the settings. Takes about 3.5 seconds to do. Click the elipsis (3 dots) on the upper right of the screen.
Great video I enjoy watching your videos. I’ve been wanting to try this and I didn’t know what all would be involved with this conversation. I think I could handle tackling this now. Thanks a lot .love the fact that you try to make a bike what you want on a budget instead of spending thousands of dollars just buying what you want. Gives us new to biking folks with mechanical skills info to try getting what we want on a budget
R.J. MacGyver! In answering the question: “Can I retro-fit disc brakes to my older bike?” you ended up answering the question that should have been asked in the first place: “Should I convert my older bike to disc brakes?” Clearly the answer is a resounding “No!” (Excess, non-essential weight is a biker’s enemy) I have an older Trek Mountain bike that has a disc brake mount on the front Judy fork, and I happen to have spare calipers and 2 extra fixie rims with discs, so I wanted to know whether I should covert the front & rear or just the front. You helped answer all my questions about the adapters out there. They end up looking like an unnecessary add-on, add on lots of extra weight and weed-snagging projectiles, extra zip-tires everywhere never looks better than nought, AND then, something I never considered: you have to cover up those giant protrusions where the old V brakes used to mount up. Totally not worth, the time, effort, EXTRA WEIGHT, and Frankenstein-looks for a little extra stopping power in the wet and mud. (Especially if you are in the majority of recreational bikers that never bike in wet & muddy conditions). If you do need the xtra stopping power in the mud you probably want/need to upgrade a better-performing, newer bike that comes with discs anyway. So, thank you RJ, this was very informative and helpful to us basement, bike mechanics! (As are all of your DIY maintenance videos)
Love the effort and detail. And it’s not just about “having disc brakes”, it about the conversion. But RJ, I have to say that a torque wrench only gives you the torque value you set it too, if your holding it by the appropriate handle when it clicks.
The Trek 820 still is my favorite mountain bike from that era.. It was so easy to ride... There was just something about that bike that was a joy to ride... Can't put my finger on what exactly but I loved that bike! Super effortless riding and I had some mad rides on it all over the city and green belt... Good memories :)
I HAVE HAD THE SAME SORT OF EXPERIENCE. I HAVE A MARIN BOLINAS RIDGE 2004, I PUT A MARZOCCHI MX COMP FROM THE SAME ERA. IT FEELS EXACTLY "RIGHT" FOR MY PHYSIOLOGY, AND IS MY GO-TO BIKE, FOR MOST RIDES, THOUGH I HAVE CHOICE,
Sure glad I watched this video before attempting to convert my older bike to disc brakes. Thank's for the video, I think I'll just save up and get a new bike next year.
don't listen to the haters. i think what you are doing is superb. i love retro bikes and this trek 820 really deserves the love. Some minor changes at transmision, a double air fork you can find second hand and you've got a 1000$ HT all around MTB. Personally I'm starting a new trek 970 project and i would think i'll try mounting disc brakes, new 27.5" tires and of course maybe i can find a good air fork.
RJ can i ask you(obviously if you know) what do you think about the Trek Y11 Carbon MTB? Are carbon bikes even good for that? If i can manage to buy one at a cheap price is it worth the investment?
Also, awesome information RJ! Kind of makes me want to figure out a swap project for my new (old) GT Palomar. Especially since I watched the stem swap video along with this. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience for free with all of us. Being an automobile mechanic, I know knowledge isn't cheap. Keep the protects coming!
I tried this approach to converting to disc brakes but couldn't find adapters that worked. So i used aluminium plate 4mm made a cardboard template and cut and filed down to shape drilled the dropout and frame fixing positions tapped and drilled for counter sunk screws. My bike has a standard drop out aluminium frame with no disk brake fixing. I only used hand tools a drill press and jigsaw to cut the aluminium. About an hours work and a perfect adapter plate. I had the aluminium and screws so no cost to me. The useless adapters from e-pay cost at least £15 so make your own a lot less hassle. Great video I wish I'd seen this before attempting my conversion, thanks again.😀
I converted a 1996 Foes Weasel to Disc with a kit from Brake Therapy back in 2003. It had a pivot that went inside the left dropout with brake mounts and a rod that clamped to the seatpost. It worked great and was ahead of its time because it allowed the suspension to travel while under braking. Rode that thing for another 13 years, then I got a new bike.
I also got a Brake Therapy kit, but put it on my long-wheelbase (LWB) Vision recumbent. It (with a Hayes hydraulic caliper) gave me enough stopping power, while the orginal V-brakes just wouldn't deliver, especially in the rain. LWB meant that the front wheel would easily lock up on hard braking, so I left the front V-brake.
I had no idea they made these kinds of adapters. It's an awful lot of work and probably not something I'd attempt, but it made for a great 50 minuets! Thanks for putting it together - I definitely appreciate and admire your ingenuity.
What? *looks at video* Fuck. he talks so slow, my ADHD normally shuts off after ten minutes of such droning. Dabe that is skill. I did not get hardly distracted... least till the end, where I skipped some of the torking at the very end.
Bravo to you RJ. Thumbs up, nicely done. Just stumbled on this video and breezed through four IPAs while watching it on my patio. Mesmerizing. I’m a road cyclist, with an old Trek 8700 converted to an urban commuter. Haven’t thought about doing anything with the Trek for years, but your video has me wanting to make this my next lengthy, mentally peaceful workshop project.
I am in the process of converting my old school Reynolds 531ST framed touring cycle to disc brakes, something that most sensible people told me was near impossible. I love a challenge though. Converting the front of the bicycle was easy if expensive and was done two years ago by getting a new set of Reynolds 631 forks manufactured with an ISO disc brake mount. Converting the rear has proved to be much more difficult as my frame dropouts only lend themselves to a bracket mounting externally on the dropout and because the frame is weak at this point I needed something to brace the mounting against the torque to which it will be subject to in fierce braking. The Chasertech bracket is the one I have gone with and the installation process is progressing well with only slight modifications to the bracket required. I am based in Scotland and the only way to get this brilliant bit of kit was to mail order it to my sister in Chicago who posted it on to me. It has not been cheap but the end result is well worth it. The A to Z adapter was no good for me as it only works with certain Aluminium frames with vertical dropouts.
RJ raises a really valid point: the application of load. On a newer, steel frame, not likely to be an issue. On an old steel bike, and especially an old aluminum bike, it could be a disaster. Aluminum in particular fatigue-fails instantaneously. I'm pondering doing this conversion, but I'd maybe reinforce those frame areas somehow.
You really help people learn so much about bikes so they can fix them themselves n not get ripped off by a bike shop or just not have the cash. I've Learned allot from you also n Im so thankful!
I think youre really great at this bike stuff ,& very informative. From when i was quite young i stripped & rebuilt all of my own bikes,& saved a lot of money in the process. Some people can't appreciate what we know & what we have learned.Thank you.
This has to be the BEST video on disc brakes I've seen. You explained everything I wanted to know and had doubts on plus you have like every adapter under the sun. This is amazing! Thank you very much! You've gained a new subscriber.
This video is great, but it's scary seeing how many people requested this topic. Disc brakes require very intense braking force on the caliper-side of the frame. Frames that haven't been built to withstand those forces probably shouldn't have those disc brake conversion mounts on them, unless maybe it's a fun little city-cruiser. Most non-disc frames are meant to withstand equal-sided braking force closer to the upper parts of the fork, not left-sided force towards the axle. Either way, it's cool to see that it's technically possible. Nice video! Definitely a labor of love project.
despite im not from uk or usa..where english language is not common...i can easy understand everything..and i already had few projects started on my bike thanks to RJ the Bike guy....keep up the good work !!!
What a pain! I just saw a different video of an old guy who converted a 1940's Schwin to a downhill bike! Rim brakes don't seem so bad afterall lol ...Great work and kudos for keeping an old Trek going
Very help full for have cheap bike like me , i have 1 bike in my life but the body of my bike is design only for road bike no disc brake board i think the first material you show for us is the best for my bike thanks dude...
suggestion: convert front to disc. Leave rear alone unless the frame has disc brake mounts. The rear adapters are wanky. Discs much better in front, rear just don't matter as much IMO. A lot of trouble atd expense for little imrovement.
I changed my old vintage 90's mtb front brake to a side puller type from the useless v brake - plenty of stopping power and only needed the brake, lever and fresh cable. discs are cool, but that was way too much bother and parts to be worth doing.
@Eric I don't think you would want the stronger brake to be in the front. Couldn't that result in a crash, with you flying over the handlebars? It seems to me that if you were only going to convert one brake to disc, it should be the back brake.
I'VE RUN A 2000 TREK 4500 FOR 8 YEARS THAT HAD A V-BRAKE O/E SET-UP, BUT I WENT THE OTHER ROUTE, I TOOK OUT THE O/E SYNC EXCEL 535 FORK, AFTER BRAKE BLOCKS WERE SEEN TWISTING, JUST BEFORE I DID A FAST DOWNHILL RUN, ON IT HIGH ABOVE WINDERMERE. I GOT A S/H ROCK-SHOK JUDY OFF EBAY, FITTED A NEW MAGURA LOUISE HYDRAULIC FRONT BRAKE, AND 203M/M DISC, AND IT HASN'T LEAKED. WITH SCHWALBE MARATHON 2'S ON, IT IS STILL SOLID! FITTED CABLE-DISC TO REAR, WITH A2Z DISC BRAKE ADAPTER, TO REAR DROP-OUT, AND NEITHER BRAKE HAS EVER LET ME DOWN. IN 2010, ADAPTER WAS ABOUT £20. BIKE WOULD SEEM HEAVY, NOW, BUT I CALL THAT "SOLID"!
I used the AtoZ adaptor and tectro disks/mech calipers on my alloy Btwin frame, for the front i bought disk forks,The difference is awesome,i can decend steep hills with no loss of control where rim brakes loose power massively,dont even mention the stopping power in the wet over rims.Great to break away from the throw away and replace it culture we see so much of.
But the GT's specially the rear canti-lever v-brake was quite strong and super stiff & precise why you would want to replace that ? keep that GT as it is and go buy a new cheap SH (second hand ) bike with brake discs.. by the time you will compare them you will see how good the old GT-brake system was.. I miss my stolen GT -team RTS with Magura brakes
I had just replaced the front and rear gear shift cables on my bike. I haven't needed to do the brakes yet. I did not know how to adjust the brake levers side to side. Thanks for the info. Due to shelter in place, I'm doing far more bike riding than I ever did before so I've been improving the shifting, braking, seat height. It rides much better now. I'm learining a lot of useful information. Thanks
Just curious, wouldn't it have been easier to just drill two holes in the bracket to mount it to the two fender/rack eyelettes and avoid the other metal plate. I would think it would have made it stronger in the long run
I used one of those cheesy 2-piece ones for the back of a '61 Columbia Firebolt that I built for a bike build off that will get very few miles on it. Since I wanted to use spare parts to change it to a 6-speed freewheel, it left me with no brake, so I went to a disc (originally coaster and with no brake bridge of substance to mount a rim brake). It was a bit of a pain to get everything aligned and to work with the dropout angles etc. and I had little faith in it through the multiple mock ups I did while fitting, but it seems pretty solid with everything tightened up. I still wouldn't trust it for anything that would be ridden in rough conditions or at speeds, but it seems fine for a cruiser. I wouldn't use it for a fork conversion, though, unless I added a truss rod or something for reinforcement. I like these weird challenges, so it was fine for me, but ultimately, rim brakes are perfectly fine. If you feel you really need discs, buy a bike with them.
You could upgrade the gears, but surely by the time you spend money on the brake kit, wheels, gear shifters, new cassette and cables, you might as well go buy a new bike.
I've spent a fortune upgrading my bike after a smashing it and myself up pretty bad. What can I say I like the frame. Besides all i need to do in the future is maybe get another frame if this one caps out.
One the one hand, I believe there is a greater value in fixing and recycling stuff you already own over buying new and shiny and trashing the old yet functional. In spirit I can’t begrudge a project like this, however in a practical sense is very negligent to suggest trusting your life to some dodgy brake adapters from eBay. On the front fork no less, where 70-90% of your breaking happens!!! It’s a good thing RJ switched the fork because that’s exactly what he should have done in the first place. If anyone really wants to add discs to an old bike, swap the old fork with a fork with proper mounts. While the rear adapter RJ used looks sturdier, still it’s probably better just to keep the stock rear v brake.
Thanks for the detailed video. From watching it, I learned exactly what I needed to know regarding upgrading to disc brakes -- and I won't be doing it.
I'm looking at doing a disc brake conversion myself. Thanks for the detailed information on potential pitfalls, bike variation and special tools. Excellent video!
You always make very interesting videos, but in my opinion for most people this is poor idea. When people ask me (at the bike co-op) about such conversion, I tell them to get another bike. There are literally thousands of used bikes available with disc brakes, many of which would be better spec'd all-around and cost no more or only a little more than the cost of the conversion.
I just found your channel yesterday when restoring a bike for my friend. Instantly subscribed, because you have videos on almost every problem the bike has. Soon I’ll be taking apart the freewheel because its occasionally slipping when going uphill. Thanks for making awesome videos!
Convert to 1x11, convert to discs, add new wheels, and who knows what else. Might as well just buy a new bike. Probably not much more money once you sell the old bike and then you get ALL the new standards on your new bike.
I am impressed by the detail of the explanation and coverage of the photography. Therefore, is a must see video for the aficionado for how to conversion to disc brakes.
Enjoy watching your tutor vids, well explained, great video angles. Most importantly your enthusiasm is relayed to the potential repairer. I myself have a now older Saracen bike that is serving me very well instead of being rejected for no great reason other than lack of knowledge. So from a very grateful bike owner. (Bike also, cos bikes have feelings😉🚴🏽) Thank you for making the effort on our behalf.
What do I think? well right off the batt I am extremely glad you are the kind of guy and channel that tells it like it is. You didn't sugar-coat this proceedure -- it took so long even your Pepsi spontaneously reproduced mid-video! I looked into this for an Ebike because when you get that regular speed with more weight better brakes are always a good idea. I think unless I know it would work dead-on ahead of time I'd just consider ordering a new fork with already existing disc brake mounts. Honestly it's a little more dickering around than I care to do these days. I'm really glad you covered a lot of the complexities that can happen. Either way it's a good learning experience.
But Id argue theres also a safety element here ,rims typically have a wear indicator often the appearance of a tiny hole ,or they have a groove right around the rim (once the groove is no longer visible its time to change the rim )..and if you fail to notice this,the rims could wear so thin the completey fail
Very thorough walk-through to converting, the best I've found. But I think my dreams of putting disc brakes on my older trek(that's been electrified) is finally dead. From a cost and DIY time perspective, its probably better to just go with Magura Hydraulic rim brakes.
There's an adapter from sellution components that mounts to the rear fender mount. Not a bad bit of kit for $25. Just converted my wife's 2006 gary fisher advance to discs
i like disk brakes because im 430 pounds and i need the stopping power when im in the woods normal horse shoe and v brakes wear out every 2 weeks to a month so i thank you for this conversation video
Great video - RJ displays his consummate problem solving skills in this video. Sure it's a lot of effort, but the ingenuity in that effort gives us something to admire. Thank you for the video - inspiring.
15:40 Rear wheel brake adaptors 25:57 Adjust control arm to align for caliper/disc and control arm 26:39 Tighten control arm and disc bracket 28:07 install front caliper 0mm IS bracket for 160mm disc rotor 30:24 install rear caliper 20mm IS bracket for 160mm rotor for standard size bracket.
Wow, good job. But so not worth it... I mean, you would have to be VERY attached to a frame if you went for $60 adapters instead of a new frame. Not to mention that you need to replace wheels as well, and those will generally be more expensive than a frame. If you want to keep the frame with its vintage look but need to improve braking force, why not just buy Magura hydraulic v-brakes?
gotta say quick that I love your OCD side. I work in an Aerospace Electronics facility and I am very OCD when it comes to J-STD and MIL-SPEC ... plus my own desire for better than what is Class 3 acceptable .... so .... I can definitely appreciate your small bit of OCD ;) in example, the rear brake cable housing ... "Ahhh, just a touch shorter" ..... 'snips off a little over half an inch' Love it LOL!
Hey RJ i just watched this video , was great , you were so imformative, I am commercial plumber and have a far amount of knowledge but with your video you added to my knowledge , and I just bought a used bike to ride with my kids , and wanted to convert to disc , so this was so good , again very detailed , I liked how you explained the spacing on the rear , and differences of the steel and aluminum frame spacing of the 130mm to 135mm i feel really comfotable with being able to covert my bike to disc !!! Thank you From Vancouver BC Canada
Enjoy the bike the way it is not worth the trouble to do the upgrade the money you're going to spend it's not worth it and if you do decide you want disc breaks just buy a new bike or new frame
If I had known my bike had the disc brake option, I would have gone for it. I can install a rear disc brake as the mount is there. I prefer not using my entire rim as a replaceable part.
Very knowledgeable and detailed video. You certainly know the ins and outs of biclcyles and you have the mechanical ability for this, Keep up the good work
Thanks for these very informative video's, you explain everthing very well and cover all aspects with doing a rebuild or conversion, all my questions about upgrading my ATB to disc brakes are answered, and I now know which way to go. I just considered instead of buying a probably wrong bracket for the rear brake to make a custom one out of a piece of 6mm steel plate, I have some basic metal working skills, a drill press and an angle grinder, those are just the tools nessecary to make such a bracket, and I can suit it exactly to my rear dropouts, brake disc size and type of calliper.
I am working on a disc conversion myself and I've talked to the guys at Chaser. They advise that you first need to measure the distance between centre of your rear left dropout to the rear left brake boss. If it's 10 inches or less you need the 145mm kit, it it's greater than 10 inches you use the 170mm kit. Good luck with the conversion.
That rear convertion to disc rotor is great. But also bring to my mind, someone with a medical body attachment. After a tough ride in mountain bike trail.
@@Wrangzilla I disagree. RJ prob would too. Define "better". A real bike mechanic can keep older bikes going forever. Some 90s bike are the toughest hybred/cross bikes there are. Parts are abundant and somewhat standardized. Not everyone races so not everyone needs the latest hyped up parts. Full suspension mnt bikes are the exception though- if you need it, as they wear out fast, even the frames.
I have an older Montague Tr tandem that I just bought used. It's a fantastic frame but circa mid-late 90s. We are both heavy people so the existing cantilever brakes have me a little concerned. This will make the bike stop a lot more confidently. That Craftsman adjustable wrench vise clamp tool looks very cool. Thanks for demonstrating that. Subscribed! and looking forward to more cool videos.
This type of modification is most idiotic thing you can do with your bike! This weak, chinese adapters and fork legs/frame, which not designed for that kind of force... could broke in any time and send you in a hospital or even in a grave! Good V-Brake like Shimano Deore or better, works just fine!
I bet you wear two helmet, one for your head, and one for your hurt butt. This is clearly not a downhill set up but would be great for commuting purposes.
That rear disc brake adapter is the same one that my downhill bike came with. It was to prevent brake jacking when the rear suspension is active and the brake is on.
How to install disc brakes on a old rim brake bike: Buy a new bike with disc brakes on it. New wheels, new brakes, new cables, new front fork. Dude changed out more than half of his bike hardware within the first 10 minutes of the video.
Thanx for this great video. Some commentators here don't seem to grab the message. There are many good reasons to mount a rear diskbrake even when the frame doesn't have the necessary mounts in the first place. Right now I'm trying my luck at a NCM ebike. Thanx again for Your inspirations.
I've been running a 1 inch steertube in a 1 1/8 crown with a shim for 16 years on my old Klein Rascal. Just updated to a new shock to add discs and had to have a shim machined to add a new 1 inch steerer to the 1 1/2 crown but still works great. 1 inch steertube avail on amazon comes with a shim for 1 1/8 crown.
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very useful video for people converting their bike to an E-bike where the V brakes are no good or may not fit the rim of the new wheel
@@girlsdrinkfeck While this is possible, using a frame with disc brake mounts is better.
@@RJTheBikeGuy yes luckily for me my bike is a " own brand " type with a multi purpose generic frame with all kinds of mounts all over it so the company brand can add or take off whatever specs they need for the price range
Where can I find cheap replacement rims?
Great job, I’ve watched this twice now lol but I the only problem I might have is I have to use the axle that’s in the bike now because it’s a Bafang motor. Do you think I would get away with out that fancy needle.
love this video. i understand half the comments are saying just buy a new frame - those are people who dont like to tinker around and engineer solutions. the other half loves to make things work the way they want them to without buying tailor-made products.. i think as a man you want to make it your own way. i respect that.
I personally recommend buying a bike with disc brakes.
@@RJTheBikeGuy i understand that and its a much more refined solution. but its boring though.
Ahhh such a joy to see that I'm not the only person adapting oldschool frames into a brazenly capable, and overtly enjoyable peddler with which you can't help but feel proud to be seen riding!
Im gonna go for the aliexpess version of the A2Z and weld it onto mine!
This isn't making it more capable. Its just making it into a death trap. Just get better calipers and pads instead of risking catastrophic failure with these hack jobs.
@@screwb1882 i agree; i love a good kludge or weird retro-mod adaptation, generally speaking, but these janky disc-brake conversions are always under-performing, and often dangerous.
I'm glad RJ took the time and effort to convert an older Trek 820 to disc brakes.
For me however, I would just bolt up a front disc brake assembly to a newer style front fork. Then go with a larger front tire for trail riding.
I considered doing this briefly on my 90's KHS MTB frame, but in the end just went with a different frame. It was far cheaper and easier to just get a frame with disc mounts and transfer parts over, than to try to adapt the left seat/chainstays for a disc brake. For awhile I actually ran a front disc brake on a Nashbar steel height-corrected fork, with the rear V-brake. After building up the bike on the other frame, I went back and re-built the KHS bike with mostly spare parts, and went back to V-brakes on it. With KoolStop pads it still has awesome braking performance, and I use it mostly as a gravel/pavement adventure bike.
Absolutely agree - I bought a reasonable quality aluminium frame on eBay for £5 with a usable headset and broken fork, and a good steel fork for £30. That's as much as a pair of the better quality adapter brackets will cost, but with no concerns about whether the frame will be strong enough, and no need to modify my "classic" rim-brake bike. As for "paying to get the wheels rebuilt", why not do it yourselves, people? If you're competent to be working on brakes you should be able to manage a spoke key.
RJ The Bike Guy single-handedly keeping the cable industry going. :-)
Snippy comment.
They need to go away and are best considered a consumable.
I still wince at it though and take them down out of reverence,
taking too long to toss them.
My rear cables become front cables. Cables last a long time.
A real bike mechanic can make cable discs work fine, (average Joe's are somewhat clueless) and you have full control of how much lever/cable play you want. And wont rip a line off in the woods.
@@whazzat8015 Nothing wrong with cable systems, unless one is a mechanical clown. KISS.
@@hemisuperzee1287 even the average slightly ham-fisted home mechanic can make mechanical discs work awesome, if you use BB7s and compressionless housing.
Excellent timing. I've been planning this conversion for the last few months. The hard part is knowing which parts are right for "your" job.
Loved the video, thanks.
Thanks for the vid! After watching it I've learned that another simpler and cheaper option would be to give your old bike away and buy a new one with the brakes you like. Thanks again!
Or sell your old bike and use the money to buy one with disc brakes.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Is installing disk brakes on a non-disk brake (v brakes safe) actually safe ? Please answer.
👍🤣🤣🤣
@@prasanna3378 still safe, just a lot of unnecessary drama.
@@heavystarch100 😂😂sure..and alot of stories😅
In reality, it's probably not worth all the efforts to do such an upgrade on this old steel frame and add on so much weight... however, the knowledge here is splendid. I could learn a ton from this video. Thanks for spreading the gold! You are the man!
For reference, the kit is 258 grams - not much.
I love this video. It reminds me of most of my projects I do around the house. You start out with a goal and the scope changes when you really get in to the project. Re-tiling the bathroom turns in to "Well I really should replace this sub-floor before I put the new tile down."
Like me the other day, little bit of lining wallpaper was lifting at the seam beside my shower no doubt due to the steamy air. So I lifted it a little bit more, stuck some paste/glue under, then used a seam roller and it was nice and flat again. Then painted over it with a little of the original paint as I had a decent bit left (I made sure to mix it well) to make it "perfect". Next day I could see this little bit dried a *slightly* different shade which annoyed me (probably others wouldn't notice) .. so ...... .. By time I'd finished I'd got the rollers out and redone the entire wall ... so much for a quick non messy job ;)
a 50 minute video from RJ - brilliant thats my evening sorted.
Did the same with a old Specialized frame many years ago. Used a spare fork to sort the front and the A2Z bracket on the rear and it also wouldn't sit flat, so I took into work and machined it to fit. Sold the bike eventually and the owner still uses it every day.
Great video as always RJ.
Best tutorial ever on this topic, learned a lot. Thanks a million, I am now starting to convert a 30 year old steel bike to Shimano Metrea.
I'm a bike mechanic. Your thoroughness is much appreciated. Also you have great advice on different available tools.
Nice conversion to disc brakes, good to see the rear brake mount finished off with a rubber cover rather cut off. Good video
BikeIt UK l
tarstarkusz mate just get some sick bailing skillzand youll be fine
Phil Weatherley might i ask where you got that from him complimenting rj's attention to using rubber caps?
@@louimcgee6146 he said nice in the original comment idiot
I love everyone saying 'just buy a new frame, its cheaper' they're kinda missing the point, its just about messing with old bikes and experimenting. Some people might enjoy fettling with bikes more than actually riding them, or they mightn't be able to get a new frame or a whole myriad of other reasons. Just enjoy RJ doing crazy things to old bikes, people
Exactly, where I'm from this would actually be cost effective as a new frame would cost 10 times more, plus I love tinkering with my bike
how to install disc brakes to a frame with no mounts.... switches forks out for one with mounts.....
Click bait
Wait did he actually...
workshop yea lol. Still a good informational video just a misleading title
It isn't misleading. "Convert Mountain Bike To Disc Brakes With No Frame/Fork Mounts" If you don't have a fork that will work, you have to find one that will. He basically said that at the end of the video.
Front Disc is enough for most purposes as that's like 70%+ of breaking. And brother you do not want disc brake that complains. This will bother u every time you ride until you fix'em or commit bikecide/suicide. So, stay w/ a V-brake rear and get a new front fork.
Im English living in Spain and I love your everyman teaching style. Sadly I am getting old and I find you speak so quickly I just cannot keep up. Having said that I was a teacher of vocational studies in the UK so I can say with my hand on my heart you and us all would actually benefit from a slower presentation. Anyway. I really appreciate your hard work and what I have learnt despite my struggle. Good Luck and thank you.
You can quickly set the speed from 25% to 200% in the settings. Takes about 3.5 seconds to do. Click the elipsis (3 dots) on the upper right of the screen.
Great video I enjoy watching your videos. I’ve been wanting to try this and I didn’t know what all would be involved with this conversation. I think I could handle tackling this now. Thanks a lot .love the fact that you try to make a bike what you want on a budget instead of spending thousands of dollars just buying what you want. Gives us new to biking folks with mechanical skills info to try getting what we want on a budget
R.J. MacGyver! In answering the question: “Can I retro-fit disc brakes to my older bike?” you ended up answering the question that should have been asked in the first place: “Should I convert my older bike to disc brakes?”
Clearly the answer is a resounding “No!” (Excess, non-essential weight is a biker’s enemy)
I have an older Trek Mountain bike that has a disc brake mount on the front Judy fork, and I happen to have spare calipers and 2 extra fixie rims with discs, so I wanted to know whether I should covert the front & rear or just the front. You helped answer all my questions about the adapters out there. They end up looking like an unnecessary add-on, add on lots of extra weight and weed-snagging projectiles, extra zip-tires everywhere never looks better than nought, AND then, something I never considered: you have to cover up those giant protrusions where the old V brakes used to mount up. Totally not worth, the time, effort, EXTRA WEIGHT, and Frankenstein-looks for a little extra stopping power in the wet and mud. (Especially if you are in the majority of recreational bikers that never bike in wet & muddy conditions). If you do need the xtra stopping power in the mud you probably want/need to upgrade a better-performing, newer bike that comes with discs anyway.
So, thank you RJ, this was very informative and helpful to us basement, bike mechanics! (As are all of your DIY maintenance videos)
Love the effort and detail. And it’s not just about “having disc brakes”, it about the conversion. But RJ, I have to say that a torque wrench only gives you the torque value you set it too, if your holding it by the appropriate handle when it clicks.
I use a beam torque wrench, not a clicker.
The Trek 820 still is my favorite mountain bike from that era.. It was so easy to ride... There was just something about that bike that was a joy to ride... Can't put my finger on what exactly but I loved that bike! Super effortless riding and I had some mad rides on it all over the city and green belt... Good memories :)
I HAVE HAD THE SAME SORT OF EXPERIENCE. I HAVE A MARIN BOLINAS RIDGE 2004, I PUT A MARZOCCHI MX COMP FROM THE SAME ERA. IT FEELS EXACTLY "RIGHT" FOR MY PHYSIOLOGY, AND IS MY GO-TO BIKE, FOR MOST RIDES, THOUGH I HAVE CHOICE,
Manny why are you screaming
Sure glad I watched this video before attempting to convert my older bike to disc brakes. Thank's for the video, I think I'll just save up and get a new bike next year.
yea too complex
don't listen to the haters. i think what you are doing is superb. i love retro bikes and this trek 820 really deserves the love. Some minor changes at transmision, a double air fork you can find second hand and you've got a 1000$ HT all around MTB. Personally I'm starting a new trek 970 project and i would think i'll try mounting disc brakes, new 27.5" tires and of course maybe i can find a good air fork.
RJ can i ask you(obviously if you know) what do you think about the Trek Y11 Carbon MTB? Are carbon bikes even good for that? If i can manage to buy one at a cheap price is it worth the investment?
TuDoR what double air fork would one be looking for?
Also, awesome information RJ! Kind of makes me want to figure out a swap project for my new (old) GT Palomar. Especially since I watched the stem swap video along with this. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience for free with all of us. Being an automobile mechanic, I know knowledge isn't cheap. Keep the protects coming!
I tried this approach to converting to disc brakes but couldn't find adapters that worked. So i used aluminium plate 4mm made a cardboard template and cut and filed down to shape drilled the dropout and frame fixing positions tapped and drilled for counter sunk screws. My bike has a standard drop out aluminium frame with no disk brake fixing. I only used hand tools a drill press and jigsaw to cut the aluminium. About an hours work and a perfect adapter plate. I had the aluminium and screws so no cost to me. The useless adapters from e-pay cost at least £15 so make your own a lot less hassle. Great video I wish I'd seen this before attempting my conversion, thanks again.😀
I converted it from FWD to twin turbo
Ahh a fellow with truly good tastes.
I just got a sex change
Wooooo
I converted mine to a unicycle to reduce labor by 50%
I converted a 1996 Foes Weasel to Disc with a kit from Brake Therapy back in 2003. It had a pivot that went inside the left dropout with brake mounts and a rod that clamped to the seatpost.
It worked great and was ahead of its time because it allowed the suspension to travel while under braking. Rode that thing for another 13 years, then I got a new bike.
I also got a Brake Therapy kit, but put it on my long-wheelbase (LWB) Vision recumbent. It (with a Hayes hydraulic caliper) gave me enough stopping power, while the orginal V-brakes just wouldn't deliver, especially in the rain. LWB meant that the front wheel would easily lock up on hard braking, so I left the front V-brake.
I had no idea they made these kinds of adapters. It's an awful lot of work and probably not something I'd attempt, but it made for a great 50 minuets! Thanks for putting it together - I definitely appreciate and admire your ingenuity.
What? *looks at video* Fuck. he talks so slow, my ADHD normally shuts off after ten minutes of such droning. Dabe that is skill. I did not get hardly distracted... least till the end, where I skipped some of the torking at the very end.
Bravo to you RJ. Thumbs up, nicely done. Just stumbled on this video and breezed through four IPAs while watching it on my patio. Mesmerizing. I’m a road cyclist, with an old Trek 8700 converted to an urban commuter. Haven’t thought about doing anything with the Trek for years, but your video has me wanting to make this my next lengthy, mentally peaceful workshop project.
IPA Don’t taste good at all.
Thank you for putting up all of these helpful tutorials, they're some of the best I've found.
I am in the process of converting my old school Reynolds 531ST framed touring cycle to disc brakes, something that most sensible people told me was near impossible. I love a challenge though. Converting the front of the bicycle was easy if expensive and was done two years ago by getting a new set of Reynolds 631 forks manufactured with an ISO disc brake mount. Converting the rear has proved to be much more difficult as my frame dropouts only lend themselves to a bracket mounting externally on the dropout and because the frame is weak at this point I needed something to brace the mounting against the torque to which it will be subject to in fierce braking. The Chasertech bracket is the one I have gone with and the installation process is progressing well with only slight modifications to the bracket required. I am based in Scotland and the only way to get this brilliant bit of kit was to mail order it to my sister in Chicago who posted it on to me. It has not been cheap but the end result is well worth it. The A to Z adapter was no good for me as it only works with certain Aluminium frames with vertical dropouts.
RJ raises a really valid point: the application of load. On a newer, steel frame, not likely to be an issue. On an old steel bike, and especially an old aluminum bike, it could be a disaster. Aluminum in particular fatigue-fails instantaneously.
I'm pondering doing this conversion, but I'd maybe reinforce those frame areas somehow.
You really help people learn so much about bikes so they can fix them themselves n not get ripped off by a bike shop or just not have the cash. I've Learned allot from you also n Im so thankful!
I think youre really great at this bike stuff ,& very informative. From when i was quite young i stripped & rebuilt all of my own bikes,& saved a lot of money in the process. Some people can't appreciate what we know & what we have learned.Thank you.
A video i have been waiting for a very long time Great video
keep up the good work
This has to be the BEST video on disc brakes I've seen. You explained everything I wanted to know and had doubts on plus you have like every adapter under the sun. This is amazing! Thank you very much! You've gained a new subscriber.
What a can of worms. The original V brakes probably work almost as well as discs anyway. But kudos for finding a way to make something work.
If it's not raining anyway...
@@MrAmorti at least you don't need to be so careful with rim brakes...
This video is great, but it's scary seeing how many people requested this topic. Disc brakes require very intense braking force on the caliper-side of the frame. Frames that haven't been built to withstand those forces probably shouldn't have those disc brake conversion mounts on them, unless maybe it's a fun little city-cruiser. Most non-disc frames are meant to withstand equal-sided braking force closer to the upper parts of the fork, not left-sided force towards the axle.
Either way, it's cool to see that it's technically possible. Nice video! Definitely a labor of love project.
Thanks! Frankly I think it is better, easier, cheaper, to buy a bike with disc brakes.
nobody can make this more dummyproof like you do RJ... very nice explainations about everything that might be a problem
both thumbs up !!!
OMG, I am sure there are many more pitfalls that I never covered. This is a pretty radical conversion.
despite im not from uk or usa..where english language is not common...i can easy understand everything..and i already had few projects started on my bike thanks to RJ the Bike guy....keep up the good work !!!
What a pain! I just saw a different video of an old guy who converted a 1940's Schwin to a downhill bike! Rim brakes don't seem so bad afterall lol ...Great work and kudos for keeping an old Trek going
link to that vid?
Love the vid. Though, I'd still be freaked out by how close that screw is to the disc. I'd have changed it.
Very help full for have cheap bike like me , i have 1 bike in my life but the body of my bike is design only for road bike no disc brake board i think the first material you show for us is the best for my bike thanks dude...
suggestion: convert front to disc. Leave rear alone unless the frame has disc brake mounts. The rear adapters are wanky. Discs much better in front, rear just don't matter as much IMO. A lot of trouble atd expense for little imrovement.
Eric Peltzer
My thoughts exactly.
I changed my old vintage 90's mtb front brake to a side puller type from the useless v brake - plenty of stopping power and only needed the brake, lever and fresh cable. discs are cool, but that was way too much bother and parts to be worth doing.
@Eric I don't think you would want the stronger brake to be in the front. Couldn't that result in a crash, with you flying over the handlebars? It seems to me that if you were only going to convert one brake to disc, it should be the back brake.
once You ruined the flange of the rear rim till break down then even You would know that a rear disk brake makes sense
I'VE RUN A 2000 TREK 4500 FOR 8 YEARS THAT HAD A V-BRAKE O/E SET-UP, BUT I WENT THE OTHER ROUTE, I TOOK OUT THE O/E SYNC EXCEL 535 FORK, AFTER BRAKE BLOCKS WERE SEEN TWISTING, JUST BEFORE I DID A FAST DOWNHILL RUN, ON IT HIGH ABOVE WINDERMERE. I GOT A S/H ROCK-SHOK JUDY OFF EBAY, FITTED A NEW MAGURA LOUISE HYDRAULIC FRONT BRAKE, AND 203M/M DISC, AND IT HASN'T LEAKED. WITH SCHWALBE MARATHON 2'S ON, IT IS STILL SOLID! FITTED CABLE-DISC TO REAR, WITH A2Z DISC BRAKE ADAPTER, TO REAR DROP-OUT, AND NEITHER BRAKE HAS EVER LET ME DOWN. IN 2010, ADAPTER WAS ABOUT £20. BIKE WOULD SEEM HEAVY, NOW, BUT I CALL THAT "SOLID"!
I used the AtoZ adaptor and tectro disks/mech calipers on my alloy Btwin frame, for the front i bought disk forks,The difference is awesome,i can decend steep hills with no loss of control where rim brakes loose power massively,dont even mention the stopping power in the wet over rims.Great to break away from the throw away and replace it culture we see so much of.
great rear adapter, i have One here. ready for rebuild my Vintage gt , greetings from Chile , nice video =)
But the GT's specially the rear canti-lever v-brake was quite strong and super stiff & precise why you would want to replace that ? keep that GT as it is and go buy a new cheap SH (second hand ) bike with brake discs.. by the time you will compare them you will see how good the old GT-brake system was.. I miss my stolen GT -team RTS with Magura brakes
I had just replaced the front and rear gear shift cables on my bike. I haven't needed to do the brakes yet. I did not know how to adjust the brake levers side to side. Thanks for the info. Due to shelter in place, I'm doing far more bike riding than I ever did before so I've been improving the shifting, braking, seat height. It rides much better now. I'm learining a lot of useful information. Thanks
Just curious, wouldn't it have been easier to just drill two holes in the bracket to mount it to the two fender/rack eyelettes and avoid the other metal plate. I would think it would have made it stronger in the long run
agree. if he end up having to grind the drop out flat. wouldn't the a2z work as also without so many modification.😂
That little red doohickie above the pivot point of the lever can be adjusted for long pull or short, although I have never needed to muck with it.
Adaptocontrapto is awsome bro !! Don't let the whiney ( I'm an engineer ) types poo on your parade. Bravo !
A snapped frame would kinda looks on his parade, as would medical bills.
I used one of those cheesy 2-piece ones for the back of a '61 Columbia Firebolt that I built for a bike build off that will get very few miles on it. Since I wanted to use spare parts to change it to a 6-speed freewheel, it left me with no brake, so I went to a disc (originally coaster and with no brake bridge of substance to mount a rim brake). It was a bit of a pain to get everything aligned and to work with the dropout angles etc. and I had little faith in it through the multiple mock ups I did while fitting, but it seems pretty solid with everything tightened up. I still wouldn't trust it for anything that would be ridden in rough conditions or at speeds, but it seems fine for a cruiser. I wouldn't use it for a fork conversion, though, unless I added a truss rod or something for reinforcement. I like these weird challenges, so it was fine for me, but ultimately, rim brakes are perfectly fine. If you feel you really need discs, buy a bike with them.
Think I'll be sticking with my v-brakes lol! Question though, do you have a recommendation for budget wheelsets?
Not really. Check ebay and craiglist.
if you could find some rhino lites laced to xt hubs, it's cheap and effective
Main reason I hate those bike stands, bike wobbles too much so now I make my own. Great video it's given me an idea, thank you.
You could upgrade the gears, but surely by the time you spend money on the brake kit, wheels, gear shifters, new cassette and cables, you might as well go buy a new bike.
It is not about spending money and making this cheap. It is about having fun completing the project. ;)
Most bicycles would reach the point where repairs are more costly than a new bike with anything more serious to change than tires.
you nailed it nicely hard dude...
I've spent a fortune upgrading my bike after a smashing it and myself up pretty bad. What can I say I like the frame. Besides all i need to do in the future is maybe get another frame if this one caps out.
One the one hand, I believe there is a greater value in fixing and recycling stuff you already own over buying new and shiny and trashing the old yet functional. In spirit I can’t begrudge a project like this, however in a practical sense is very negligent to suggest trusting your life to some dodgy brake adapters from eBay. On the front fork no less, where 70-90% of your breaking happens!!! It’s a good thing RJ switched the fork because that’s exactly what he should have done in the first place. If anyone really wants to add discs to an old bike, swap the old fork with a fork with proper mounts. While the rear adapter RJ used looks sturdier, still it’s probably better just to keep the stock rear v brake.
Thanks for the detailed video. From watching it, I learned exactly what I needed to know regarding upgrading to disc brakes -- and I won't be doing it.
Hi rj could you do a garage/workshop bike tour
Gromitdog1 - God bless Costco
Gromitdog1 this is america...
I'm restoring an old bike with cantilever brakes. You convinced me to not modify and keep it original. Thanks RJ.
the old v brake studs can also be used to mount a light or reflector with a little modification.
I'm looking at doing a disc brake conversion myself. Thanks for the detailed information on potential pitfalls, bike variation and special tools. Excellent video!
I really recommend buying a bike with disc brakes to begin with. Easier, cheaper and much better.
You always make very interesting videos, but in my opinion for most people this is poor idea. When people ask me (at the bike co-op) about such conversion, I tell them to get another bike. There are literally thousands of used bikes available with disc brakes, many of which would be better spec'd all-around and cost no more or only a little more than the cost of the conversion.
I just found your channel yesterday when restoring a bike for my friend. Instantly subscribed, because you have videos on almost every problem the bike has. Soon I’ll be taking apart the freewheel because its occasionally slipping when going uphill. Thanks for making awesome videos!
Video suggestion: convert that bike to a 1x11!
I'm planning to do that with my old 820 this winter.
Convert to 1x11, convert to discs, add new wheels, and who knows what else. Might as well just buy a new bike. Probably not much more money once you sell the old bike and then you get ALL the new standards on your new bike.
Drop bars too
make it a duel suspension
I am impressed by the detail of the explanation and coverage of the photography. Therefore, is a must see video for the aficionado for how to conversion to disc brakes.
I'm old. I remember when those brakes were great. Still work well imo.
Enjoy watching your tutor vids, well explained, great video angles.
Most importantly your enthusiasm is relayed to the potential repairer.
I myself have a now older Saracen bike that is serving me very well instead of being rejected for no great reason other than lack of knowledge.
So from a very grateful bike owner. (Bike also, cos bikes have feelings😉🚴🏽)
Thank you for making the effort on our behalf.
Cheaper to buy a new bike, or just do the front only, the front brake does all the work, keep the 'v' brake on the rear.
Just got a killer deal on a track bike (obviously no brakes) recently. This video was a huge help for brake options. Thank you!
Caliper brakes would probably be a better option.
@@RJTheBikeGuy yeah, probably but I dont wanna drill holes in the forks or triangle bar. Idk
This is crazy...I was just doing research about this to do to my bike!
Is google watching you too
Andrew Triggs
Me too😂😂
What do I think? well right off the batt I am extremely glad you are the kind of guy and channel that tells it like it is. You didn't sugar-coat this proceedure -- it took so long even your Pepsi spontaneously reproduced mid-video!
I looked into this for an Ebike because when you get that regular speed with more weight better brakes are always a good idea. I think unless I know it would work dead-on ahead of time I'd just consider ordering a new fork with already existing disc brake mounts. Honestly it's a little more dickering around than I care to do these days. I'm really glad you covered a lot of the complexities that can happen. Either way it's a good learning experience.
There’s just not enough advantage to disc brakes over rim to warrant this much trouble.
No, RJ just made it sound like a year long build.. I'd like to do this to my bike, some good tips here but long winded. :I
If your rims that you just bought are disc only then this makes sense. Otherwise rim brakes on the back are good enough .
But Id argue theres also a safety element here ,rims typically have a wear indicator often the appearance of a tiny hole ,or they have a groove right around the rim (once the groove is no longer visible its time to change the rim )..and if you fail to notice this,the rims could wear so thin the completey fail
I totally agree my rim breaks work just fine want more stopping power use a longer shoe
Very thorough walk-through to converting, the best I've found. But I think my dreams of putting disc brakes on my older trek(that's been electrified) is finally dead. From a cost and DIY time perspective, its probably better to just go with Magura Hydraulic rim brakes.
Or get a different frame.
There's an adapter from sellution components that mounts to the rear fender mount. Not a bad bit of kit for $25. Just converted my wife's 2006 gary fisher advance to discs
Too much fiddling and additional weight to be worth the adaptation. V brakes work well enough to warrant this.
P F life would be horriable with v brake eww
Depending for what, not for 50km/h
Yes it can be done and you proved it!!! Kudos for your tenacity in not giving up on what quickly became a nonsensical upgrade! :-)
Yep!!! But people wanted to see it.
i like disk brakes because im 430 pounds and i need the stopping power when im in the woods normal horse shoe and v brakes wear out every 2 weeks to a month
so i thank you for this conversation video
damn bro maybe try going up hill instead of downhill a bit, then you wont be needing that much braking power when going downhill
Great video - RJ displays his consummate problem solving skills in this video. Sure it's a lot of effort, but the ingenuity in that effort gives us something to admire. Thank you for the video - inspiring.
really good looking bike, nice video
Super helpful. Your tutorials have been invaluable as I began my introduction into bicycle self repairs.
15:40 Rear wheel brake adaptors
25:57 Adjust control arm to align for caliper/disc and control arm
26:39 Tighten control arm and disc bracket
28:07 install front caliper 0mm IS bracket for 160mm disc rotor
30:24 install rear caliper 20mm IS bracket for 160mm rotor for standard size bracket.
Excellent video. With patience time and the right parts anything can be done. Thank you for taking the time to post this.
Wow, good job. But so not worth it... I mean, you would have to be VERY attached to a frame if you went for $60 adapters instead of a new frame. Not to mention that you need to replace wheels as well, and those will generally be more expensive than a frame. If you want to keep the frame with its vintage look but need to improve braking force, why not just buy Magura hydraulic v-brakes?
they aren't historic if they have a hokey disc setup....
the adaptors are a couple of quid
historic, maybe... and it belongs to be hung on the wall though
DazDeluxe what's a quid?
@@HardCorps88 a quid means 1 UK Pound :)
gotta say quick that I love your OCD side. I work in an Aerospace Electronics facility and I am very OCD when it comes to J-STD and MIL-SPEC ... plus my own desire for better than what is Class 3 acceptable .... so .... I can definitely appreciate your small bit of OCD ;) in example, the rear brake cable housing ... "Ahhh, just a touch shorter" ..... 'snips off a little over half an inch'
Love it LOL!
You rock! Jesus loves you and God bless! U have a talent and passion that ur great at!
Hey RJ i just watched this video , was great , you were so imformative, I am commercial plumber and have a far amount of knowledge but with your video you added to my knowledge , and I just bought a used bike to ride with my kids , and wanted to convert to disc , so this was so good , again very detailed , I liked how you explained the spacing on the rear , and differences of the steel and aluminum frame spacing of the 130mm to 135mm
i feel really comfotable with being able to covert my bike to disc !!! Thank you From Vancouver BC Canada
Thanks. But I really recommend buying a bike that already has disc brakes. Easier, cheaper, and better.
Feels like you've added a nice full 1kg of weight
on his big toe !
Fantastic work, AJ, as always. This video is probably the best advert for Magura HS33 hydraulic rim brakes ever!
Enjoy the bike the way it is not worth the trouble to do the upgrade the money you're going to spend it's not worth it and if you do decide you want disc breaks just buy a new bike or new frame
If I had known my bike had the disc brake option, I would have gone for it. I can install a rear disc brake as the mount is there. I prefer not using my entire rim as a replaceable part.
Very knowledgeable and detailed video. You certainly know the ins and outs of biclcyles and you have the mechanical ability for this, Keep up the good work
that bike looks like robocop :)
Thanks for these very informative video's, you explain everthing very well and cover all aspects with doing a rebuild or conversion, all my questions about upgrading my ATB to disc brakes are answered, and I now know which way to go.
I just considered instead of buying a probably wrong bracket for the rear brake to make a custom one out of a piece of 6mm steel plate, I have some basic metal working skills, a drill press and an angle grinder, those are just the tools nessecary to make such a bracket, and I can suit it exactly to my rear dropouts, brake disc size and type of calliper.
Must be great to do on a road bike. (Cough, video suggestion, cough, cough)
Probably about the same thing. Except a normal road bike fork probably couldn't handle the stresses of disc braking.
RJ The Bike Guy Yeah, I agree on that one.
RJ The Bike Guy what size chaser kit did you use 145 or 170?
I am working on a disc conversion myself and I've talked to the guys at Chaser. They advise that you first need to measure the distance between centre of your rear left dropout to the rear left brake boss. If it's 10 inches or less you need the 145mm kit, it it's greater than 10 inches you use the 170mm kit.
Good luck with the conversion.
T3HR3PP4 Thanks for the info!!!
this is a great video because you encountered lots of issues and covered potential issues
That rear convertion to disc rotor is great. But also bring to my mind, someone with a medical body attachment. After a tough ride in mountain bike trail.
you are literaly the king of budget bike lovers.
How to make your old bike with disc brakes
Step 1.Sell the old bike
Step 2.Buy a new bike with disk brakes
Exactly. A cheap bike with hydraulic brakes is going to be better than good bike old enough to have rim brakes anyway.
@@Wrangzilla I disagree. RJ prob would too. Define "better". A real bike mechanic can keep older bikes going forever. Some 90s bike are the toughest hybred/cross bikes there are. Parts are abundant and somewhat standardized. Not everyone races so not everyone needs the latest hyped up parts. Full suspension mnt bikes are the exception though- if you need it, as they wear out fast, even the frames.
I have an older Montague Tr tandem that I just bought used. It's a fantastic frame but circa mid-late 90s. We are both heavy people so the existing cantilever brakes have me a little concerned. This will make the bike stop a lot more confidently.
That Craftsman adjustable wrench vise clamp tool looks very cool. Thanks for demonstrating that.
Subscribed! and looking forward to more cool videos.
This type of modification is most idiotic thing you can do with your bike! This weak, chinese adapters and fork legs/frame, which not designed for that kind of force... could broke in any time and send you in a hospital or even in a grave! Good V-Brake like Shimano Deore or better, works just fine!
Yes....correct, my Words!
I bet you wear two helmet, one for your head, and one for your hurt butt. This is clearly not a downhill set up but would be great for commuting purposes.
You are an idiot and no, i do not wear any helmet at all! Peace! :D
That rear disc brake adapter is the same one that my downhill bike came with. It was to prevent brake jacking when the rear suspension is active and the brake is on.
Is that on a Kona?
How to install disc brakes on a old rim brake bike: Buy a new bike with disc brakes on it. New wheels, new brakes, new cables, new front fork. Dude changed out more than half of his bike hardware within the first 10 minutes of the video.
Thanx for this great video. Some commentators here don't seem to grab the message. There are many good reasons to mount a rear diskbrake even when the frame doesn't have the necessary mounts in the first place. Right now I'm trying my luck at a NCM ebike. Thanx again for Your inspirations.
Thanks for trying but after the first 8 minutes I just couldn't take anymore of the rambling and scurrying about from topic to topic.
I've been running a 1 inch steertube in a 1 1/8 crown with a shim for 16 years on my old Klein Rascal. Just updated to a new shock to add discs and had to have a shim machined to add a new 1 inch steerer to the 1 1/2 crown but still works great. 1 inch steertube avail on amazon comes with a shim for 1 1/8 crown.
A threadless stem adapater?