Bike Disc Brake Caliper Disassembly/Assembly (Avid BB7)
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- Опубліковано 26 гру 2022
- I show how to disassemble and re-assemble an Avid BB7 mechanical disc brake caliper. I also show how the mechanism works. I just thought it would be fun to see what was inside, and see how it works. I cleaned and lube the parts. I replaced the three ball bearings, but I really didn't need to. If they show wear or damage, they should be replaced. The ball bearings were 5/32" balls. I lubed the parts with marine grease. I considered using Sil-Glyde which I have used for disc brakes on cars. But I decided marine grease might be more available to people watching this video than Sil-Glyde.
Service Manual for Avid BB5 & BB7:
www.sram.com/globalassets/doc...
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If I could, I would pin this comment. :)
@@bob-ny6kn Thanks!
excellent video
You and ParkTool are one of the best things that could happen to the bike community, thanks for all your work RJ
hard agree
Well said.
We are in danger of becoming dependent on corporations for basic things.
I'll be able to keep an obsolete bike going thanks to people like RJ
An extremely useful video. But Avid has changed the assembly since you made the video, or I have an earlier version. The two bolts holding the caliper halves together are the same length and they are Torx, not 5mm hex. More important, when they are removed, the two halves seem glued or bonded together; they don't separate. At least they have not separated yet. Still working on it.
I was just going around in thoughts of overhauling my BB-7s after this winter. So much salt on the roads this winter. This video comes right on time!
Another awesome video RJ. I really like how you can make something that appear complicated look easy. Gives us home bike DIYers the knowledge and confidence to work on our bikes. Thanks again
Without a doubt these are the best non-hydraulic brakes out there. They are certainly better than many low-end hydraulic models. Great explanation of how they work and how to over haul them! (By the way, we are getting spoiled with all the new content. Welcome Back!)
What do you think of TRP Spyke / Spyre?
@@andreybatashov2183 I like them better than the BB7, myself.
@@andreybatashov2183 The TRPs are a better design, since both pads move towards the rotor. The Avids deflect the rotor against the stationary pad.
@@cgrocho47 Agreed, though the BB7s look much easier to service than the TRPs.
@@stevem2531 The TRPs aren't bad to service at all, the first time I tore it down it only took about 25 minutes to do the whole thing. I do think the value isn't there considering they're more expensive than a lot of hydraulic calipers though.
It's like a watchmaker servicing a watch, but with human-sized components. Very relaxing - and very interesting, even if I will probably never service a caliper myself. Thank you RJ!
SO happy to see your cardboard work surface back on you tube RJ. You have been an essential resource for my bike repairs for years. THANKS so much for coming back to us!
Awesome! Great video ...........saved me a headache from having someone else working on my bike.........thanks!
I know that this would be a nightmare to put back together without your great video! Thanks for the detailed step-by-step instructions. 👍
Great vid!
I can't believe that "a light coating of grease" was indeed a light coat and not a huge squirt from the grease gun :D
Thanks RJ, I just installed a NOS BB7 on one of my bikes. In the future hopefully I will remember this vid when it comes time to service it. HNY to you and yours, and to all the RJ fans as well
got thousands of k's on my Surly Disc Trucker's BB7's.. I reckon I might have to give this a shot. Thanks for making that a possibility RJ!
I took apart my caliper to grease it. I don't know where I messed up along the way but it wasn't functioning correctly. I went on Google, found a black and white manual (color would of been helpful when the product itself is all black) and I went on UA-cam, and found a video posted by you, the first words I said outloud were "THANK. GOD"
Thanks RJ
Another great video to add to your bike mechanics video toolkit! Super stuff - thank you.
Smooth, clear, concise, comprehensive and very helpful. One of the very best instruction videos I have ever seen on any topic. Well done and thank you.
Soon Avid will be using this video for training at the factory.
Excellent video… just got done rebuilding a set on my Pugs a few weeks ago. Best mechanical brakes I’ve used and I’ve got em on several of my bikes. 😊
Thank you for taking the time to do this. Disc brakes were a complete mystery before this. My front brake has been engaging then then losing grip with a loud clunk sound like something has jumped out of place. At least now I have an idea what might be failing.
Ah! I would've needed you and this video about 4 months ago! I did this by trial and error, but in the same way, as it happens. Thanks for an entertaining video!
Great video as always.
Amazing how much more complicated these are than hydraulic brakes.
Hydraulic calipers rely on perfect alignment. That's scary.
Excellent video, and excellent timing. I was planning on doing this to my brakes soon. This will be a HUGE help!! Thank you very, very much
Thank you for putting this together. what a wonderful video.
There is a grub screw to adjust tension on the spring, if you backed it out then it makes putting the arm back in place much easier, many cable operated calipers also have a tiny grub screw hiden on the outer adjustment disc to lock it in place, it's very easy to overlook this one and then struggle to move the adjuster.
I have a question on my mind, and you might possibly be addressing it. I have several low-end single action calipers and they all have a tiny set screw in the body and going in perpendicular to and butting up against the threads of the fixed pad adjuster. It seems to be a bit of a mess and varies across the models.
They are obviously intended to apply tension/locking to keep the adjuster from inadvertently turning. Some have a small plastic plug between the set screw end and the adjuster threads, and some don't. The screws that don't have the plug have damaged the adjuster threads by essentially plowing into the threads.
It brings me to my question. Are these set screw supposed to be backed off during the fixed pad adjusting or is a proper set screw/plastic plug preset supposed to be left alone during pad adjustment?
@@snakerstran9101 yes the set screw is there to stop the adjuster moving, yes there is supposed to be a nylon buffer to stop, as you point out, damaging the thread as it’s soft aluminium, you’re supposed to slacken it off, do your adjustment then tighten it just enough to stop the adjuster moving as over tightening will destroy the nylon buffer
RJ just watched your Quill stem removal worst case scenario from 2013 all I can say is WOW and EPIC the patience you had on that video keep up the great work CHAMP🥊💯😃!!!
Just overhauled my rear BB7(finally)holy cow brake pad replacement was way overdue and man took my rig for a spin and bike is like brand new again🗽♥️
The trick with these, other than getting the piston back in, is that the torque arm throw will be off if you don't have the piston seated flush. If the torque arm throw is off, you'll have little to no modulation and spring back of the lever arm. That and the pad on the piston side will not retract all the way. Note the position of the torque arm before disassembly.
I think this is my issue..how do I resolve?
Amazing video, thank you RJ, you are the best 👍🏻
I'm subscribed to your channel, and I'm sending this message to thank you! I have a pair of these Avid brake calipers, and thanks to your precise explanations, I managed to repair them and they are ready for use again, and they are very strong! My sincere thanks!
thank you so much for publishing this!
Thank you so much, This provides so much value, I'm more confident in my mechanical abilities. I love hydro discbrakes, just got my first bike with mechanical ones.
Great video, very informative. no longer fear the disc. Well, the cable activated ones anyway.
Fantastic videography! And your audio is excellent. I'm now 100% confident to do my own overhaul. Can't wait to experience perfect braking on my newsed HP Velotechnik Street Machine.
Another excellent tuto. Tnx RJ. Happy Holidays, and Happy New Year
Simpel but genious design. :)
I am so done with leaking levers, and will look into mechanical disc brakes.
I have a pair of these on a bike I own. This was a valuable video for me. I'm sure mine are not yet at the service interval depicted, but that's bound to change.
Exactly what I needed. Thanks!!
Love this! Thank you for such great details.
Super helpful and great instructions. Thank you!
Amazing. I almost bought one last year just to take apart and see how they work.
Your videos are awsome
So dont stop posting them👍👊
I would had never imagined that mechanical calipers were more complex than their hydrologic counterpart.... Thanks RJ
Fun fact: Those ball bearings are the namesake parts of the BB-7 (and BB-5).
I read a long time back that BB7's had 7 balls and BB5's had 5 balls. I see now, that is not right.
Wow, thank you for making this
Justo lo que estaba buscando Gracias y saludos desde Chile
Muy buen video, pocos conocen la excelente calidad de esta mordaza. Saludos.
Thanks, I am new with disk brake & I just got a bike with disk brakes. I plan on give it a tune-up and resale.
Awesome work RJ
Great work RJ, very enlightening as always!
excellent well needed,thanks for all your work
I noticed for the small red adjuster knob, it looked like it didn't go in all the way in enough. Before you took it off, the metal tab came out further than when you reinstalle the knob. It also looked like the "arms of the knob doesn't need to be lined up with the metal 4 prong washer. I was comparing the part of the video when you took it off and when you put it back on... not quite match in installed depth. But since I've never taken these apart, I can't say anything other than the observation. Great video requardless!
You are the best! Thanks.
Very well done video--5 stars
Thanks bro much appreciated 👍
As ever, this is a great video and worth watching in its entirety, but if you're just looking to change the pads, and want to understand what you're doing, watch the first few minutes then skip to [18:58]
excellent video, thank you
excellent video. very helpful.
Very Helpful Thank you. well done
Unbelievably good video! 🙏👌
Very interesting really enjoyed it thank you.
Perfect video
Thank you RJ
that was great now I know how to do this. Maybe you should have put new pads on it while you took it apart.Thanks for doing this. I would also show how it came off the bicyle and how to put it back on. I put this video in my save column so when I have to change my brakes I can do it. Again thanks loved the video.😀👀👌
I could have. But the old pads had lots of material/life left and they cleaned up pretty well.
@@RJTheBikeGuy thanks for your reply will continue to watch your videos.
Those bb7 have better quality than some hydraulic calipers!
Very interesting enjoyed this great video Better than tv
Best non hydraulic affordable disc brakes. I am not up to date, but if I think TRP makes some mechanical disc brakes with both sides mobile. The only advantage they have is that if the rotor is perfectly centered and the pads adjusted properly, the rotor would not flex. I find this quite irrelevant for the ordinary cyclists who don't use extreme braking force. I use BB7s for about 10 years now and never had issues with them.
Nice. I might do mine.... one day :)
You da man
Great tutorial,I’ve learned a lot from your videos, thanks. how long have you been fixing bikes?
Спасибо БРО!
I had the big stationary piston seize on my first set, you need to do this regularly
Can you do a hydraulic brake assembly/disassembly? Great video btw!
You're like the Scotty Kilmer of the bicycle world but better
Thank you! 👍
Could you please make the same video for BB5?
Red rubber grease is ideal for brake assembly.
👍
For someone with an early model bb7, they don't split in half and need a special tool, the "mdt-1", to service. Same operating principles though.
Hmmm. I haven't seen one of those BB7s.
@@RJTheBikeGuy: I think i must have one of those as well. The caliper halves seem bonded together. Trying to figure out how to remove the pistons
When you finished re-assembly the adjuster knob on the lever arm was not pushed down all the way.
Good video! But I need help.. I've got a zoom 280 caliper on the back of my trek 3500d. It looks similar to what you have there. My issue is that when I put the pivot arm back together there doesn't seem to be enough tension in the spring. So when I push the brake lever it stops the bike..but it doesn't spring back. I'm not sure how to get more spring tension into the lever where the brake cable attaches. It seems that I only have like 1/2" of cable travel between released and braking positions. What could be wrong with the way I assembled it?
So many calipers with compromised springs. How is the spring sourced?
What if I don't have that glue? What else can used?
Do you know of a kit to put disc brake on a adult tricycle
Im having qn issue where my brake pads aren't lininb up in the caliper. The pads and spring are installed correctly but the top of the pads (bunny ears) wont seat properly so i get sort of a teepee shape from the pads. Any advice?
RJ I have a question inst avid disc brakes SRAM brand
They are now. SRAM acquired them in 2004.
Thanks I wasn't too sure I thought they were sure am nowadays but I wasn't too sure because that's what I put a lower end model on my specialized hard Rock because I switched to the front to this and right now I'm trying to find where that special bracket where you can on a vintage bikes where you can convert it into this trying to find the right one is very hard thank you so much
U got anything on the sort of wheel that has gears and breaks in the hub in having some problems with a bike it's called a gazelle touche apparently made in 1995
ua-cam.com/play/PLxO5aF0sensj8O6aRwxUSfnzQVAl9GWWD.html
@@RJTheBikeGuy thankyou looking at doing though my collection and selling some of Mabey donate a few to charity as the numbers are getting out of control
No grease needed on spring?
Not according to the Avid instructions.
Should you be putting so much grease in this? I would imagine grease and brake dust would make a fine sandpaper.
Each to their own. Given their low load and low actuation rate, I wouldn't bother myself. But perhaps there's some wisdom.
Super useful video. Thanks, RJ the Bike Guy.
I have a question. Apologies if someone asked it already. On my BB7, rear side, the outter arm (and perhaps related piston) is rather lose and has a lot of play. It does not seem to affect the efficacy of breaking but it generates a noise whenever I turn. It is as if one of the pads touched the rotor. however, when I cycle straight, there is no noise. Have you got any idea about it ? I could have a separate conversation if it is convenient. I can give you my phone number.
THanks again.
Pierrick,
15:50 You close the red cap wrong position.
guess i know what im doing over break
I would have gave up on that thing first 10 minutes looks complicated 😬
Too much grease, threadlock and use of pliers.
Otherwise our techniques are similar.
If you have 2 bolts for thread lock apply to one and use the other bolt to smear and share excess to other bolt.
Wouldn't one of those ( I think it's called an acid brush ) steel handle brushes be better than a Q-Tip? I have bad luck of the Q-tip coming apart and cotton is left behind and has to be cleaned up or cause problems.
I need more videos man I don't use facebook
omg hes finally using metric. 2023 here we come!
i love that torque wrench