Did You went with 650b conversion as well? Frames designed with bigger tires (~2.3") and/or fenders in mind should almost always fit around 650b x 50 and it feels more modern on such size.
Thanks a lot for this video! You're one of the few youtubers to demo the process for brazing on disc mounts to a vintage MTB frame. Most of the popular bike-repair channels stick with aftermarket bolt-on mounts for disc brakes, which look just absolutely dreadful in my opinion. I also have an old bike, a GT Timberline Al Terra, and I've considered this kind of upgrade, but I've never done any soldering/brazing/welding work.
I did this with a stick welder on a beach cruiser ebike build. It definitely didn't come out as clean, but it worked. I can take it down a hill and hit 50 mph and the brakes actually stop, unlike the coaster brake that almost started on fire.
Heck yeah man! nice work. Having grenaded a couple of coster hubs over the years I definitely approve of this. Well-done doing it with a stick welder too. Strong welds dont always need to be clean (and stick welds don't often look clean, haha).
Dig it!! Funna take two front brake sets+tabs off the 24”&26” hubs and rebuild 20” rims with disc brake hubs, then fab up the tabs like you did!! Thanks for the bracing advice, i admit ignorance there and in much of this cycling stuff. Schlappin together a 20” bmx frame to be all slick’n’sexy and get repainted etcetc 🤙
Seeing so many disc brake installs on old vintage frames all of a sudden, however once you see the wear marks on the disc you know they've installed them way too high - not enough pad bite on the rotor... Will be doing my GT Palomar in time.
Thank you for sharing the process! The video seems great, however I'd like to see how you take the measures for the rear mount as well, not just the fork. The rear mount is a lot trickier. Otherwise very helpful for my project - thanks!! 🙏
Well I toyed with this idea for a while on a Reynolds 501 road frame. Maybe that's a good point about sticking with a nice beefy MTB frame. Especially considering I have zero experience with TIG. Thanks for the vid. You definitely made it look possible, if not simple.
For this kind of project, I highly recommend that if you have no skill welding anything, as I do not have, when you go to convert an old frame to disc brakes, I would look into the use of a torque arm that mounts to the mounting bracket, and fastens to that side's old cantilever/V-brake mounting post. At least in that way, a solution exists that does not require a complicated skill like welding to accomplish.
@@MR-backup : I was. At the same time, I haven't heard anyone say torque-arm kits aren't being sold any longer, because a lot of E-bike kits still come with them. The whole idea of the torque arm is to hopefully negate the back-and-forth torquing of a frame dropout arm and keep it from breaking. And if a bike doesn't come with disc brakes, like my 29" MTB, I would need a way to keep the frame from snapping due to simply applying my brakes.
Great Video, super informative!. I'm wanting to add disc brake tabs to an older kona frame (1993 lava dome) and I'm curious what your welding setup was? I'm hesitant as I fear the tubing on the seat stays is significantly thinner than the tab material. What kind of amperage did you use? Also what was the approximate wall thickness of the reinforcement material? Thanks!
Some of those older Kona's have pretty thin-walled tubing (which is why they're often pretty light). You could try to ease into it with a low amp test weld and see if you immediately blow through the tubing. I typically just use cut up tubes from other bikes for my reinforcement material.
I like the way you added extra support to the rear stays, but what about something for the front. That fork was not designed for the extra torque/stopping power of the disc brakes. Around 70% of braking power comes from the front. I hope you're planning for that.
Wow my guy, you know what you are doing! Great workmanship and quality video. I wonder if there is some workaround for the many old roadbike frames out there?
Thanks for the kind words. You won't see me do this to a road frame because their tubing tends to be so thin, and you have to do a lot of work to re-space the frame and clearance it for rotors. It's no fun...
Love this. I did basically the same thing on the frame of my 1993 Kona Lava Dome. I'm curious to see how that fork holds up. I've been considering doing this to my old 1" threaded fork on my vintage road frame to gravel bike conversion. Thoughts about the longevity? I think if it was me I would have extended that fork brace up at least an inch higher.
I don't really recommend trying this with a road frame (I personally wouldn't do it). They usually have pretty thin tubing and don't even have the clearance for the rotors anyway. There are a ton of factors that could affect longevity on a bike of that age. Tough to say what the frame has already been through, and what it's about to go through after the changes.
Totally dig your video. I've felt a bit on my own trying to figure out how to add disc brakes to a late 80's specialized rockhopper, with the local bike shops not being interested. I can tig weld and I just purchased some ISO tabs from frame builders supply. I'm converting the bike to an e-bike powered by a hub motor (which came with a 160mm rotor already attached). Could you recommend a disc brake/adapter to use with it? I'm trying to put together a budget e-bike, but I've found more complications than anticipated! Great video, thank you!!
In your case I would strongly recommend finding an existing steel fork specifically designed for disc brakes. Even then you might need to add some reinforcement plates. I've heard it's quite common for hub motors to stretch/break the dropouts on older MTB forks. They're usually not up for the torque and wont be safe over the long run. Especially if you're trying to do disc brakes and a hub motor.
That'd be 100% dependant on the frame and what sort of clearance it has for whatever size tires you hope to run. I am about to do two different builds that will be 26" to 650b/27.5" conversions. Videos coming soon.
@@FietsofStrength awesome! We need more of this type "go ahead and do it videos". I just finished my first frame build and i overthought it too much before actually starting to build it. I'm going to buy an old gt big size frame and i believe i can fit 650's there. The added tube for support of the force the disc brake is an excellent tip which i might not have considered. Just one more question, why'd you decide to go with post mount vs flat? I'm a bit drunk while typing so there might be some mistakes while writing this. Cheers from Colombia!
Can you clear something up for me. You made the the tabs out of 1/4" plate as mentioned on some of the replies you made. or 3/16th as mentioned at 5:23 time stamp? I'm just about to make the tabs in a few days after gathering the metal. Thanks
Honestly I've used both thicknesses. They both work just fine for this. Though thinner material is incrementally easier to weld to thinner tubing, but it usually also means extra washers to space out your mounting bolts so they don't hit your rotor.
air cooled torch? I'd be using a size 5 cup w/ 3/32 Tungsten on water cooled syncrowave. Looking at adding rear brake lugs to a Fuji Axis aluminum frame. Would just buy a modern fork built for disc. Your project looks great.
@@MR-backup my syncrowave is about 20 years old. I've owned it a while. Before inflation, a good used syncro250 could be had for $1500 on a good day. Not a huge stretch really for a cool machine.
I have the same situation. Are you implying that the Cro-Moly frames are thinner metal than standard steel frames? All I have is a flux core welder and have been contemplating this mod. Thanks!
@@3gcraftsman a LOT of old frame are some variation of cromo. It's the more "Mtb" frames that tend to have slightly thicker walled tubing, AND they're usually easier to re-space to allow clearance for disc brake rotors. Most old road frames are not only thin-walled, but also don't offer enough clearance for rotors. The best way to learn is to experiment though!
I did this project for someone else, so I never even got to see it built up. But 8ve done several of these conversions now and they're all holding up great. Everyone's got them set up as sweet townie commuters and I hear they're loving them.
Ahw, I want to see disk plus cantilever/v breaking with two of those double wire break leavers for one hand use... Ah cut the break posts off though, now there's no option...
TIG welding is nice and clean and easier with thin tubes. But I try to remember that there is always someone out there making way more impressive things with even less tooling/technology. Work with what you've got and have fun.
dunno nuthin bout "freak bikes" and sorry; but I can only give this video a score of 4.5 out of 10 The extra .5 is for adding the little gusset tube to the frame. I've done this operation on steel bike frames a number of times with very good results; below are the proper steps: 1. Attach the caliber to the appropriate adapter bracket in the middle of the slots and then attach the adapter to the brake mounting tab in the middle of the slots. ( choosing the correct adapter bracket can be a little challenging; good to have a number of brackets handy ot experiment with as the diameter of the disc and frame affect placement.) 2. Install the wheel in the frame with the brake disc attached (you may need to reset your dropouts to accommodate the wider hub) 3. Move the pads of your caliber all the way OUT to the widest setting. 4. Make some long strips out of a soft drink can as wide as the pads in your caliper to use as shim material 5. fold the shim material tightly over the disc in several layers so that both sides have the same thickness of material. Make this shim stack thick enough so that you can just barely push the caliper down onto the disc over the shim stack. 6. rotate the wheel to bring the brake tab in contact with the frame; then mark the areas on the tab that you will needs to grind or cut away for a good fit. 7. Before removing the brake tab from the adapter; scribe a mark on the tab near the mounting slots that aligns with mark on the adapter bracket. Also mark the frame where the tab edges of the tab will be attached. 8. Remove the tab from the adapter and cut + grind the brake tabs as needed until it fits; note you may have to reassemble the tab onto the adapter to few times to get a perfect fit; but it will be worth it in the end. 9. Once you have the tab fitting perfectly; make only tiny tack welds to attach it to the frame and then let it cool; check your fitment and adjust as needed. Weld the tab to the frame in short alternating stitch welds to minimize distortion 10. you can get disc brake tabs AND the new brake line guides that you must also add to secure your newly routed cables from bike frame builders supply houses such as Nova
Hub spacing, and frame design to accommodate disc brakes is quite different than what the rim brakes format requires. It's not so simple as putting mounts on for each. And at this point manufacturers likely have no incentive to produce anything with rim brakes when the nearly the whole industry (parts manufacturers and frames builders) has moved to disc brakes.
I'm not Dutch, no, but because I make custom "bakfiets" as one of many careers I took on the name "Fiets of Strength". A play on "fiets" meaning bike, "strength" implying they haul things and "feats of strength" referencing old circus/freakshow callers plus a Seinfeld reference too. It's got LAYERS! :)
Your method of reinforcement takes away from the bike's beauty though. You are better off making the brake mounts longer. Adding it as a sort of spine to the seat stay where it is mounted. Hard to describe it without a drawing, but it just minimizes the complex geometry of added reinforcements. Adding more stuff to the bike only makes it look more Mad Max and jerry rigged.
you inspired me and now a 90's steel mtb frame has become disc brake gravel bike
have you had any problems with the frame cracking due to the forces?
Did You went with 650b conversion as well? Frames designed with bigger tires (~2.3") and/or fenders in mind should almost always fit around 650b x 50 and it feels more modern on such size.
loved that old school cassete at the beginning!
spindatt definitely watched this video
Thanks a lot for this video! You're one of the few youtubers to demo the process for brazing on disc mounts to a vintage MTB frame. Most of the popular bike-repair channels stick with aftermarket bolt-on mounts for disc brakes, which look just absolutely dreadful in my opinion. I also have an old bike, a GT Timberline Al Terra, and I've considered this kind of upgrade, but I've never done any soldering/brazing/welding work.
Very nice tutorial! I followed what you did in this video last night and got an awesome result on the cruiser frame for my klunker build!
I did this with a stick welder on a beach cruiser ebike build. It definitely didn't come out as clean, but it worked. I can take it down a hill and hit 50 mph and the brakes actually stop, unlike the coaster brake that almost started on fire.
Heck yeah man! nice work. Having grenaded a couple of coster hubs over the years I definitely approve of this. Well-done doing it with a stick welder too. Strong welds dont always need to be clean (and stick welds don't often look clean, haha).
The cassette boombox is a nice touch.
Dig it!! Funna take two front brake sets+tabs off the 24”&26” hubs and rebuild 20” rims with disc brake hubs, then fab up the tabs like you did!! Thanks for the bracing advice, i admit ignorance there and in much of this cycling stuff. Schlappin together a 20” bmx frame to be all slick’n’sexy and get repainted etcetc 🤙
Awesome stuff! Would love to see an update of the finished bike!
Good work, you have very noticeable tradesman skills
That Niskiki was a very worth candidate for this 👏👏👏
Love it! Perfect pacing and great information. I look forward to your next ones!
Sound track was a nice touch,
Brilliant! Bring the adaptor to the frame, not the adaptor to the caliber. Great video and very inspiring!
Seeing so many disc brake installs on old vintage frames all of a sudden, however once you see the wear marks on the disc you know they've installed them way too high - not enough pad bite on the rotor...
Will be doing my GT Palomar in time.
I'm subbing. About to do this on my old trek 730. And you old school Zapp and Roger west coast music in the background.
Would love to see the completed built bike.
Thank you for sharing the process! The video seems great, however I'd like to see how you take the measures for the rear mount as well, not just the fork. The rear mount is a lot trickier. Otherwise very helpful for my project - thanks!! 🙏
Not sure how I’ve only just found your videos but they’re great. Keep it up!! The quality is brilliant
Well I toyed with this idea for a while on a Reynolds 501 road frame. Maybe that's a good point about sticking with a nice beefy MTB frame. Especially considering I have zero experience with TIG.
Thanks for the vid. You definitely made it look possible, if not simple.
excellent video detailing excellent work, thank you!
What did the bike end up like? Is there a part 2 ???
Looks great J. Subscribed. Looking forward to more videos.
Súper Job.
Not worried about stress forces on the fork? On the back, the rear triangle you added reinforcements, but what about fork blades?
Everyting is easy to understand, very clear and simple explanations. Kudos to you Sir! This is great video cotnent here
For this kind of project, I highly recommend that if you have no skill welding anything, as I do not have, when you go to convert an old frame to disc brakes, I would look into the use of a torque arm that mounts to the mounting bracket, and fastens to that side's old cantilever/V-brake mounting post.
At least in that way, a solution exists that does not require a complicated skill like welding to accomplish.
I'm told They don't sell those anymore.
@@MR-backup : Sell what? A torque-arm kit for disc brakes?
@@isaiahwelch8066 Isn't that what you are talking about?
@@MR-backup : I was. At the same time, I haven't heard anyone say torque-arm kits aren't being sold any longer, because a lot of E-bike kits still come with them.
The whole idea of the torque arm is to hopefully negate the back-and-forth torquing of a frame dropout arm and keep it from breaking. And if a bike doesn't come with disc brakes, like my 29" MTB, I would need a way to keep the frame from snapping due to simply applying my brakes.
Super awesome! Ok, where do I send my frame set, and how quickly can you have it done 😎🤣. This video is super informative👏🏻.
what is that artifact you are using at the beggining to produce musical sounds? Seems marvelous!
I love it! Attempting this as we speak, starting with just the front fork on my 700c. I’m also in Portland, would love to ride some time !
Best of luck! 🤘🏽
Would love to see the finished bike … what size tires could you fit?
Did you make any follow up videos on this build?
Bear is like a old west coast hip hop beat 😊
Beat
Nice work 👍 Thanks for sharing
Great Video, super informative!. I'm wanting to add disc brake tabs to an older kona frame (1993 lava dome) and I'm curious what your welding setup was? I'm hesitant as I fear the tubing on the seat stays is significantly thinner than the tab material. What kind of amperage did you use? Also what was the approximate wall thickness of the reinforcement material? Thanks!
Some of those older Kona's have pretty thin-walled tubing (which is why they're often pretty light). You could try to ease into it with a low amp test weld and see if you immediately blow through the tubing. I typically just use cut up tubes from other bikes for my reinforcement material.
What a beautifully helpful nice man.
Aww schucks. Thanks Mark!
I like the way you added extra support to the rear stays, but what about something for the front. That fork was not designed for the extra torque/stopping power of the disc brakes. Around 70% of braking power comes from the front. I hope you're planning for that.
Out of curiosity: why not use one of the dropout eyelets instead of welding? thnx for the video
Love tapes ! Fair play
Love this video! It really motivated me to finally try this. Would this work for a noob with a stick welder and a steady hand?
Sounds... A bit messy. But I've seen people make crazy stuff without any tech at all.
Certainly possible. Make sure you use 1/16 7014 rods
Nice work!,
I don't need brakes myself but if you're into that kinda thing.
Can't stop. Wont stop.
Wow my guy, you know what you are doing! Great workmanship and quality video. I wonder if there is some workaround for the many old roadbike frames out there?
Thanks for the kind words. You won't see me do this to a road frame because their tubing tends to be so thin, and you have to do a lot of work to re-space the frame and clearance it for rotors. It's no fun...
Love this. I did basically the same thing on the frame of my 1993 Kona Lava Dome. I'm curious to see how that fork holds up. I've been considering doing this to my old 1" threaded fork on my vintage road frame to gravel bike conversion. Thoughts about the longevity? I think if it was me I would have extended that fork brace up at least an inch higher.
I don't really recommend trying this with a road frame (I personally wouldn't do it). They usually have pretty thin tubing and don't even have the clearance for the rotors anyway. There are a ton of factors that could affect longevity on a bike of that age. Tough to say what the frame has already been through, and what it's about to go through after the changes.
Good work 👍👍
I love projects like this. Well explained, thanks! Do you think it would be a bad idea not to add that extra brace?
I always approve of extra insurance policies when modifying bikes. There's really no reason not to add in a tiny bit more support. 🙂
How did the finished bike turned out? any footage on that?
where did you get the fabrication magnets?
Great job!
Totally dig your video. I've felt a bit on my own trying to figure out how to add disc brakes to a late 80's specialized rockhopper, with the local bike shops not being interested. I can tig weld and I just purchased some ISO tabs from frame builders supply. I'm converting the bike to an e-bike powered by a hub motor (which came with a 160mm rotor already attached). Could you recommend a disc brake/adapter to use with it? I'm trying to put together a budget e-bike, but I've found more complications than anticipated! Great video, thank you!!
In your case I would strongly recommend finding an existing steel fork specifically designed for disc brakes. Even then you might need to add some reinforcement plates. I've heard it's quite common for hub motors to stretch/break the dropouts on older MTB forks. They're usually not up for the torque and wont be safe over the long run. Especially if you're trying to do disc brakes and a hub motor.
@@FietsofStrength Thank you for the advice! Very much appreciated :D Cheers from Dallas, TX
That was awesome.
EPIC JOB!!! Wow....
Can you use a bigger size rim when converting the brakes? Great video!
That'd be 100% dependant on the frame and what sort of clearance it has for whatever size tires you hope to run. I am about to do two different builds that will be 26" to 650b/27.5" conversions. Videos coming soon.
@@FietsofStrength awesome! We need more of this type "go ahead and do it videos". I just finished my first frame build and i overthought it too much before actually starting to build it. I'm going to buy an old gt big size frame and i believe i can fit 650's there. The added tube for support of the force the disc brake is an excellent tip which i might not have considered. Just one more question, why'd you decide to go with post mount vs flat? I'm a bit drunk while typing so there might be some mistakes while writing this. Cheers from Colombia!
Most likely you know this already, but “fiets” is dutch for bike.
Like this upgrade, maybe try this myself
Super good stuff!
Thanks!
Great video man! Bike looks great. What kiind of steel did you use?
1/4" mild steel plate.
Can you clear something up for me. You made the the tabs out of 1/4" plate as mentioned on some of the replies you made. or 3/16th as mentioned at 5:23 time stamp? I'm just about to make the tabs in a few days after gathering the metal. Thanks
Honestly I've used both thicknesses. They both work just fine for this. Though thinner material is incrementally easier to weld to thinner tubing, but it usually also means extra washers to space out your mounting bolts so they don't hit your rotor.
Good job 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
do you had any problem after you converted to disc? i've converted my crossframe but on forums people seems quite mad....
I want to do this, any guidance on weld settings?
Can these be brazed on as you made them here? Seems like it would be strong enough.
Hi pls do a quickrelease to fixed thruaxle dropout conversion
air cooled torch? I'd be using a size 5 cup w/ 3/32 Tungsten on water cooled syncrowave. Looking at adding rear brake lugs to a Fuji Axis aluminum frame. Would just buy a modern fork built for disc. Your project looks great.
Yep, I only have an air-cooled setup. And it's tricky to find "modern" forks that are disc brake and 1" threaded. Work with what youve got. :)
@@FietsofStrength true .very limited 1" options. Love what you've done! Inspiring
" I'd be using a size 5 cup w/ 3/32 Tungsten on water cooled syncrowave. "
-Yea bud, not everyone can have the coolest toys.
@@MR-backup my syncrowave is about 20 years old. I've owned it a while. Before inflation, a good used syncro250 could be had for $1500 on a good day. Not a huge stretch really for a cool machine.
I have a 90's Cro-Mo farme, is that strong enough steel? How thick is the plate that is used to make the tabs?? I'm looking forward to this!!
I recommend 1/4" thick plate. Tricky to weld to thinner tubing, but better for brake setup.
@@FietsofStrength Thanks for the info
I have the same situation. Are you implying that the Cro-Moly frames are thinner metal than standard steel frames? All I have is a flux core welder and have been contemplating this mod. Thanks!
@@3gcraftsman a LOT of old frame are some variation of cromo. It's the more "Mtb" frames that tend to have slightly thicker walled tubing, AND they're usually easier to re-space to allow clearance for disc brake rotors. Most old road frames are not only thin-walled, but also don't offer enough clearance for rotors. The best way to learn is to experiment though!
nice video!
Can you post your parts list sir
Yo!!! I plan on doing this to a specialized hardrock! How is your bike holding up?
I did this project for someone else, so I never even got to see it built up. But 8ve done several of these conversions now and they're all holding up great. Everyone's got them set up as sweet townie commuters and I hear they're loving them.
great!
cheerz
Let’s see finished bike.
Nice pun with your channel’s title!
Meesterlijk!
Thank you!
You shoukd have stated how far apart the holes were drilled center to center.. and what kind of metal you used etc etc.
Good!
are the orgenal axel used?
Did you consider de-brazing the canti posts instead of cutting them off?
Sure, but I work with the tools I have on-hand.
What happens if the Rotor doesn’t miss The frame and fork any tips?
What welder do you recommend
I can't find part 2.
do you have any layout of the disc brake mounts?
There isn't a generic template for this process. Since every frame is different I make a new template every time.
Hi there, coukd yiu tell me the thickness of the metal plate you used for the bracket please,
Thanks mate.
I have successfully used both 3/16" and 1/4" for this. Depends on what I have on hand at the time.
@@FietsofStrength Cheers mate. ;)
Ahw, I want to see disk plus cantilever/v breaking with two of those double wire break leavers for one hand use... Ah cut the break posts off though, now there's no option...
I have the same frame! Any chance you can add disk brake tabs to mine?
I'm not taking any orders, but I am encouraging folks to make friends with a welder. :)
I'm ok at mig welding... but never done it on a bike frame. Is it possible or should I be learning to TIG?
TIG welding is nice and clean and easier with thin tubes. But I try to remember that there is always someone out there making way more impressive things with even less tooling/technology. Work with what you've got and have fun.
Nice
Did it work?
Also how can I tell if my frame is steel or chromoly?
what thickness is the plate from which it is cut this adapters?
I used 1/4" plate for this project. Tricky to weld to thin tubing, but works great.
Given I have a huffy I want Todo this to. Jandy
Reply to comments, all of them. Maybe yt will pick up the videos easier. Sometimes it helps.
The B.A.L. Honeys porn music in the background tho lol.
Good
question: the frame are aluminum ?
They are steel. I would not attempt to modify an aluminum frame.
dunno nuthin bout "freak bikes" and sorry; but I can only give this video a score of 4.5 out of 10
The extra .5 is for adding the little gusset tube to the frame.
I've done this operation on steel bike frames a number of times with very good results; below are the proper steps:
1. Attach the caliber to the appropriate adapter bracket in the middle of the slots and then attach the adapter to the brake mounting tab in the middle of the slots. ( choosing the correct adapter bracket can be a little challenging; good to have a number of brackets handy ot experiment with as the diameter of the disc and frame affect placement.)
2. Install the wheel in the frame with the brake disc attached (you may need to reset your dropouts to accommodate the wider hub)
3. Move the pads of your caliber all the way OUT to the widest setting.
4. Make some long strips out of a soft drink can as wide as the pads in your caliper to use as shim material
5. fold the shim material tightly over the disc in several layers so that both sides have the same thickness of material.
Make this shim stack thick enough so that you can just barely push the caliper down onto the disc over the shim stack.
6. rotate the wheel to bring the brake tab in contact with the frame; then mark the areas on the tab that you will needs to grind or cut away for a good fit.
7. Before removing the brake tab from the adapter; scribe a mark on the tab near the mounting slots that aligns with mark on the adapter bracket. Also mark the frame where the tab edges of the tab will be attached.
8. Remove the tab from the adapter and cut + grind the brake tabs as needed until it fits; note you may have to reassemble the tab onto the adapter to few times to get a perfect fit; but it will be worth it in the end.
9. Once you have the tab fitting perfectly; make only tiny tack welds to attach it to the frame and then let it cool; check your fitment and adjust as needed. Weld the tab to the frame in short alternating stitch welds to minimize distortion
10. you can get disc brake tabs AND the new brake line guides that you must also add to secure your newly routed cables from bike frame builders supply houses such as Nova
i've done a lot of times & sell it
could I pay you to do this?
What size hubs
The rear triangle was re-spaced to 135
Would you weld my bracket on my frame If I send it to you ?
I'm not taking on any outside projects atm. Sorry.
I hate bike frames that have no pre-made support for both type of brakes. I don't get why it's still an issue.
Hub spacing, and frame design to accommodate disc brakes is quite different than what the rim brakes format requires. It's not so simple as putting mounts on for each. And at this point manufacturers likely have no incentive to produce anything with rim brakes when the nearly the whole industry (parts manufacturers and frames builders) has moved to disc brakes.
@@FietsofStrength disc brakes are better anyway
Are you Dutch? Since "fiets" in Dutch means "bike" in English.
I'm not Dutch, no, but because I make custom "bakfiets" as one of many careers I took on the name "Fiets of Strength". A play on "fiets" meaning bike, "strength" implying they haul things and "feats of strength" referencing old circus/freakshow callers plus a Seinfeld reference too. It's got LAYERS! :)
@@FietsofStrength well thought out ! triple layer
loved this. SUB [ON] OFF
Your method of reinforcement takes away from the bike's beauty though.
You are better off making the brake mounts longer. Adding it as a sort of spine to the seat stay where it is mounted. Hard to describe it without a drawing, but it just minimizes the complex geometry of added reinforcements. Adding more stuff to the bike only makes it look more Mad Max and jerry rigged.
If you knew me you'd know "Mad Max" is a high form of praise.