If you drain the oil out of the engine and really let it drain before removing the filter would that prevent having such a mess from the filter on the exhaust?
The would still be a bunch of oil in the filter that would release upon removal. Would it be less, maybe, but not enough to worry about. The best way would be to have something covering the exhaust for the oil to drain through. The description has a link for a flexible funnel which I have since picked up for this reason and others like it.
seanjoyce17 A plastic flexible cutting board works well also. Just trim to size and put over the exhaust and it will drain right off into the pan. Use a towel if exhaust is really hot so it doesn't melt.
That's exactly what I was thinking. Always drain the oil out of the engine first, completely. Then put the drain plug back in. Move your bucket over and then remove the filter. No mess whatsoever. I do the job in that order with all of my vehicles.
Whenever it's one of the copper crush washers I replace it too, these thick aluminum ones, unless damaged don't need to be replaced in my experience. Never thought of the anti seize, not a bad idea especially if the bike is taken out all year including snow/salted roads.
picked up my fz-10 last week videos are quite helpful
Congrats on the new bike! Did you go for the black and red or gray and yellow?
Black and Red all though i wish the wheels were red. Come winter i think i will change them
If you drain the oil out of the engine and really let it drain before removing the filter would that prevent having such a mess from the filter on the exhaust?
The would still be a bunch of oil in the filter that would release upon removal. Would it be less, maybe, but not enough to worry about. The best way would be to have something covering the exhaust for the oil to drain through. The description has a link for a flexible funnel which I have since picked up for this reason and others like it.
seanjoyce17 A plastic flexible cutting board works well also. Just trim to size and put over the exhaust and it will drain right off into the pan. Use a towel if exhaust is really hot so it doesn't melt.
That's exactly what I was thinking. Always drain the oil out of the engine first, completely. Then put the drain plug back in. Move your bucket over and then remove the filter. No mess whatsoever. I do the job in that order with all of my vehicles.
there will always be oil in the filter unless the filter is installed upside down like you find on some older toyotas and new toyotas with the 3.5 V6
How to reset engine oil indicator after oil change? Thanks.
I am changing the oil on my FZ 10. How is Motul 300V? Have you put a few miles on with the oil? Any insight? Thank you
Thanks man helpful video
Good stuff. When is the drive chain adjust video coming out?
Looking to finish up editing it and get it out sometime this week. Been super busy lately unfortunately which has caused a delay.
why does that oil look so green?
Not sure, but it is very much green. It just kind of is. :) In the sightglass the factory oil, when new, was greenish also.
To avoid a major problem, I would suggest anti-seize compound on drain bolt threads. Also, always replace the drain bolt crush washer.
Whenever it's one of the copper crush washers I replace it too, these thick aluminum ones, unless damaged don't need to be replaced in my experience. Never thought of the anti seize, not a bad idea especially if the bike is taken out all year including snow/salted roads.
@@TheMattHatter Anti Sieze isn't necessary. You're changing it often, right?
If you use aluminum foil place it over the exhaust, it'll drip down that without hitting your pipe 😉