I like your vids Rich but I'd apply some knowledge from changing car pads here... Remove master cylinder cap to allow brake pistons to be pushed back much easier. In fact they can be pushed back by hand. I'd advocate removing the entire caliper too and giving it a good clean. This is particularly relevant if the pads are older (dirtier) and done before you push the pistons back in to help keep any shite out and off the seals. I would also bleed the lines while you're at it. The difference in colour from the old and new and air that came from my lines surprised me. Keep up the good work though mate, you've helped me out by making more than a few jobs a lot easier and quicker.
Great videos rich! I'm a complete novice but watching these give me the confidence to have a go and it saves me a lot of money. 😁 just don't get a new bike untill you have done a video for every part of the bike lol.
Richies, a Trick I've learned with those pliers is wrapping the Jaws with a few wraps of electrical tape then 2 wraps of Tesa cloth tape. I do some gunsmith work and was taught this technique for pushing roll pins back in and it works like a charm. Pliers are only a few bucks and would probably pay to just buy an inexpensive set to keep wrapped at all times for this type of work. Keep up the great videos buddy!
nbit69, Thanks for stopping by and for your feedback , Your right you know , a few wraps of sparkies tape would have worked a charm on this . noted for next time .!
Good vid for the newbs. Should have put a rag on the Grips as to not mark the caliper housing tho. Also a smear of grease on the pin and edges of brake end plates that slide into the caliper housing.
Hi Brad , thanks for your comments. Normally i do have a rag handy for jobs such as these. but yes your right a light smear of grease would prob work wonders on the caliper pin.!
This is the way I've usually done it but I watched a guy do it was super thorough. He took calipers off, cleaned everything with brake clean and then not on lubed the edges of the pads but the pistons and pin also. Not a bad idea, occasionally you do get a stuck pad causing uneven wear.
No need to remove caliper good video as usual I got the delkevic stainless and the 13inch tri muffler but dont want to get rid of or change O2 sensors if you have advice on what to use I'd appreciate it thanks
Any idea what the standard pads are? I found that mine seem to work well once heated up and didn't work well around town or on highways. Also did a brake bleed and managed to get some air out of the system. a bit firmer now Are you thinking about changing the springs in the suspension at any point?
New sub here. Videos are incredible. Looking forward to picking one up in the spring. Could you please share where the levers are from. Are those straight out of the Yamaha catalog?
Video of removing the baffles out of the akropovic next please !! Also did I notice short levers ? That's probably the lack of braking you encountered..... ?? 👍😎👍
Little tip , if you Undo the master cylinder reservoir lid and you won't need those big grips and the pistons will move back easier,and always clean the pistons up before forcing them back in !
Dave , thanks for your feedback and helpful tip.. I was thinking that , however didn't want fluid everywhere... plus had washed the brakes down with a citrus cleaner the day before , pistons looked pretty clean as it was . But your right , if covered in brake dust and road grime u run the risk of damaging the seals on the pistons !👍
hey it's all good , i have a friend worked for a bike mag , rang up one afternoon spent hours trying to push them back in, i took the lid off and said " try now" we laughed!
The reason it would be hard to push back with the lid ON is if the fluid in the reservoir was over filled. The reservoir has a rubber expandable seal and the plastic lid on to of reservoir is not air tight. If you can see an air gap above fluid to the rubber seal, you should be able to move pads back without taking lid off.
Can we install R1 caliper on M10? I was thinking we will change the caliper instead of changing just pads. Just swapping pads will make things better for Mt10?
I just got yesterday my new MT-10, and the brake is soo week compared to my MT-07. I was expecting stronger, or at least same braking effect from the bigger rotors. Is that possible if I change the brake pads will solve my problem somewhat?
Hi RIchie DId you get a Arkapovic end can? Have made a video swapping them over? Bought one for my MT10 and fancy installing it myself. A video would be really helpful. Thanks Pav
Pav Sharda , hi mate , yeah have got the Akrapovic can fitted , and I hav got a video of it’s fitment . Just been a bit busy with things , will post it ASAP .
Hey Richie, did you upgrade the master cylinder yet mate? I'm thinking of buying an MT10 SP or S1000R and MT10 seems to have more character for a bit(tiny bit) less money. Your videos are really more helpful then all the reviews out there. You need to be an owner to to truly know and fix what's lacking. Keep up the good work. Cheers from Melb.
pengasus, thanks for your kind message bud... I believe detai/Info is everything... and that’s what I try to put into every video I do. Yes my Master Cylinder is fitted as of only a few days ago and the video is coming ... just a bit of final editing to be done.. The difference is straight away noticeable... much better feel then stock. Stock being 15mm , R1 being 5/8 inch . Then I’m fitting braided lines in another video.. 👍
HIEU NGUYEN , mate thanks for reaching out .. I’m currently waiting on a few bits to do a rear brake video /upgrade with rotor, pads captive wheel spacers !
Hi Baz, Thanks for your comments mate . Yeah the part number is 1247.. They are the "SA" compound , which are listed as a ideal upgrade from the OE pad.
Queenslander, thanks for stopping by and providing feedback.👍 The pads fitted were Brembo Sintered "SA" pads. Part number :1247. And the compound is ideal as a upgrade to the OE pads fitted at factory. - taken from website ! After a small running in period, I did notice the ABS wanting to activate, and it lifts the rear of the bike slightly,like your doing a stoppie 👍 Hope that answered your question. If you like I can do a follow up regarding these pads just for you 🤙
+Richies Bikes Hey RB it wasn't a sledge I just wondering if it worked because lots of testers & MT-10 owners are saying the initial bite & feel of the brakes isn't there and you have to apply a lot of pressure regardless so if softer organic (maybe) brake pads doesn't fix it then blokes will have to try replacing the master cylinder with a high priced Brembo unit or wait until the first factory update replacement from yamaha & buy that one .. because you would think that 320mm discs wouldn't be the reason or 4 piston callipers either, But I can tell you I've never ever seen a bike that guys & reviewers have done their balls over like the MT-10 and the brake issue seems to be the only problem but it's easily fixed with some $$.
Queenslander, all good mate , didn't take it as a sledge👍 Totally agree the brake do miss that bite .. these pads do appear to fix that... I will need to put a few more kms on them to know for sure! Cheers mate. Be sure to subscribe for the updated video
Nowadays, Brembo SA are the worst pads to use on any bike, too much initial bite, fading and extremely aggressive on rotors. let's not talk about how they were fitted ... use that parrot wrench like that ...
Mauro, Well thanks for your feedback, and mechanical advice . I look forward to your video showing the best upgrades for brakes . And a parrot wrench? We call them Multi grips here in Australia.
Mad69Russian , thanks for stopping by . As much as I wish I was , I'm certainly no Rossi, plus I've only really used my bike for the daily commute, which in sydney is stop start traffic , not really knee down suitable. But thanks for your comments 👍
I don't have 2 inch chicken strips and I appreciate a rider chosing to upgrade his brakes for better performance. if most riders were doing sensible upgrades like this instead of wasting money on nonsense like power commanders on bikes with only slip ons, we'd have a lot less fatalities. If we, as riders, put in as much effort in to learning how to properly brake as we put in to wheelie, there'd be a lot of friends still with us. Kudos OP. can't wait for 2. wanna do the same upgrade.
I like your vids Rich but I'd apply some knowledge from changing car pads here...
Remove master cylinder cap to allow brake pistons to be pushed back much easier. In fact they can be pushed back by hand. I'd advocate removing the entire caliper too and giving it a good clean. This is particularly relevant if the pads are older (dirtier) and done before you push the pistons back in to help keep any shite out and off the seals. I would also bleed the lines while you're at it. The difference in colour from the old and new and air that came from my lines surprised me.
Keep up the good work though mate, you've helped me out by making more than a few jobs a lot easier and quicker.
Hell yeah I have done the block off plates and link pipe on my fz10 using your videos and this will be my next upgrade! Thanks for the quality content
seanjoyce17, thanks for your kind words....
Great videos rich! I'm a complete novice but watching these give me the confidence to have a go and it saves me a lot of money. 😁 just don't get a new bike untill you have done a video for every part of the bike lol.
Your video helped a lot. The rear is just as easy as the front I did all 3. Cheers.
Keep em coming man. Great stuff!
Richies, a Trick I've learned with those pliers is wrapping the Jaws with a few wraps of electrical tape then 2 wraps of Tesa cloth tape. I do some gunsmith work and was taught this technique for pushing roll pins back in and it works like a charm. Pliers are only a few bucks and would probably pay to just buy an inexpensive set to keep wrapped at all times for this type of work.
Keep up the great videos buddy!
nbit69, Thanks for stopping by and for your feedback , Your right you know , a few wraps of sparkies tape would have worked a charm on this . noted for next time .!
Good vid for the newbs. Should have put a rag on the Grips as to not mark the caliper housing tho. Also a smear of grease on the pin and edges of brake end plates that slide into the caliper housing.
Hi Brad , thanks for your comments.
Normally i do have a rag handy for jobs such as these. but yes your right a light smear of grease would prob work wonders on the caliper pin.!
This is the way I've usually done it but I watched a guy do it was super thorough. He took calipers off, cleaned everything with brake clean and then not on lubed the edges of the pads but the pistons and pin also. Not a bad idea, occasionally you do get a stuck pad causing uneven wear.
Top man. Thanks for the video
No need to remove caliper good video as usual I got the delkevic stainless and the 13inch tri muffler but dont want to get rid of or change O2 sensors if you have advice on what to use I'd appreciate it thanks
Any idea what the standard pads are? I found that mine seem to work well once heated up and didn't work well around town or on highways.
Also did a brake bleed and managed to get some air out of the system. a bit firmer now
Are you thinking about changing the springs in the suspension at any point?
New sub here. Videos are incredible. Looking forward to picking one up in the spring. Could you please share where the levers are from. Are those straight out of the Yamaha catalog?
Hey Richie, how about doing a vid replacing the rear pads?
Hey bud what were the pads you swapped? What type of brembo?
Video of removing the baffles out of the akropovic next please !! Also did I notice short levers ? That's probably the lack of braking you encountered..... ?? 👍😎👍
What brake pads did you go for and are you going to the big my meet at the be gum tree
Little tip , if you Undo the master cylinder reservoir lid and you won't need those big grips and the pistons will move back easier,and always clean the pistons up before forcing them back in !
Dave , thanks for your feedback and helpful tip..
I was thinking that , however didn't want fluid everywhere... plus had washed the brakes down with a citrus cleaner the day before , pistons looked pretty clean as it was . But your right , if covered in brake dust and road grime u run the risk of damaging the seals on the pistons !👍
hey it's all good , i have a friend worked for a bike mag , rang up one afternoon spent hours trying to push them back in, i took the lid off and said " try now" we laughed!
The reason it would be hard to push back with the lid ON is if the fluid in the reservoir was over filled. The reservoir has a rubber expandable seal and the plastic lid on to of reservoir is not air tight.
If you can see an air gap above fluid to the rubber seal, you should be able to move pads back without taking lid off.
Can we install R1 caliper on M10? I was thinking we will change the caliper instead of changing just pads. Just swapping pads will make things better for Mt10?
I just got yesterday my new MT-10, and the brake is soo week compared to my MT-07. I was expecting stronger, or at least same braking effect from the bigger rotors. Is that possible if I change the brake pads will solve my problem somewhat?
Hello Richie what make or where did you get your bar end mirrors from, bike looking good.....
Tony , thanks for your kind words mate.! Be sure to subscribe as I'm working on a video regarding these.!
What model code are these pads?
Did you notice any noise from not using grease?
Hi RIchie
DId you get a Arkapovic end can? Have made a video swapping them over? Bought one for my MT10 and fancy installing it myself. A video would be really helpful. Thanks Pav
Pav Sharda , hi mate , yeah have got the Akrapovic can fitted , and I hav got a video of it’s fitment . Just been a bit busy with things , will post it ASAP .
Richies Bikes
Thankyou, would be a great help. I receive it on Friday. Was there much of difference? apart from it looking ace?
Pav,ua-cam.com/video/qmMQIZiISeM/v-deo.html your wishes have been granted..lol
Hey Richie, did you upgrade the master cylinder yet mate? I'm thinking of buying an MT10 SP or S1000R and MT10 seems to have more character for a bit(tiny bit) less money. Your videos are really more helpful then all the reviews out there. You need to be an owner to to truly know and fix what's lacking. Keep up the good work. Cheers from Melb.
pengasus, thanks for your kind message bud...
I believe detai/Info is everything... and that’s what I try to put into every video I do.
Yes my Master Cylinder is fitted as of only a few days ago and the video is coming ... just a bit of final editing to be done..
The difference is straight away noticeable... much better feel then stock.
Stock being 15mm , R1 being 5/8 inch .
Then I’m fitting braided lines in another video.. 👍
Thanks mate. Looking forward to it!
Hi there, DO you have video replace rear brake also?
HIEU NGUYEN , mate thanks for reaching out .. I’m currently waiting on a few bits to do a rear brake video /upgrade with rotor, pads captive wheel spacers !
i see them for sell at 30euro this is the pri e? or they fake.. how much did u pay mate
I can’t find brembo pads for this bike anywhere
Did this improve your braking?
Chris, yes mate id say it did , however second time around id use the "SC" compound pads from brembo,
Is there a particular part number for these Brembo pads?
Hi Baz, Thanks for your comments mate .
Yeah the part number is 1247.. They are the "SA" compound , which are listed as a ideal upgrade from the OE pad.
Cheers mate! That's helpful.
I have no idea what "Bob is your uncle" means but I've decided to start saying it randomly here in the us
Aussie slang mate basically means there you have it .
Bobs your uncle fanny's your aunt
But please install a reasonable amount of gearinglube/ fat on it the pen. Very important though.
Where's the test ride to see if it's worked .. otherwise what's the point of changing the make & style of the pads?
Queenslander, thanks for stopping by and providing feedback.👍
The pads fitted were Brembo Sintered "SA" pads.
Part number :1247.
And the compound is ideal as a upgrade to the OE pads fitted at factory. - taken from website !
After a small running in period, I did notice the ABS wanting to activate, and it lifts the rear of the bike slightly,like your doing a stoppie 👍
Hope that answered your question.
If you like I can do a follow up regarding these pads just for you 🤙
+Richies Bikes Hey RB it wasn't a sledge I just wondering if it worked because lots of testers & MT-10 owners are saying the initial bite & feel of the brakes isn't there and you have to apply a lot of pressure regardless so if softer organic (maybe) brake pads doesn't fix it then blokes will have to try replacing the master cylinder with a high priced Brembo unit or wait until the first factory update replacement from yamaha & buy that one .. because you would think that 320mm discs wouldn't be the reason or 4 piston callipers either, But I can tell you I've never ever seen a bike that guys & reviewers have done their balls over like the MT-10 and the brake issue seems to be the only problem but it's easily fixed with some $$.
Queenslander, all good mate , didn't take it as a sledge👍
Totally agree the brake do miss that bite .. these pads do appear to fix that... I will need to put a few more kms on them to know for sure!
Cheers mate.
Be sure to subscribe for the updated video
Brembo, not bembro
Seth Glenn, thanks for your feedback bud 👍
Doesn't look like this bike goes around corners very often
Nowadays, Brembo SA are the worst pads to use on any bike, too much initial bite, fading and extremely aggressive on rotors. let's not talk about how they were fitted ... use that parrot wrench like that ...
Mauro,
Well thanks for your feedback, and mechanical advice . I look forward to your video showing the best upgrades for brakes .
And a parrot wrench? We call them Multi grips here in Australia.
You worry about the brakes, yet have a two inch chicken strips on your tyres.
Mad69Russian , thanks for stopping by .
As much as I wish I was , I'm certainly no Rossi, plus I've only really used my bike for the daily commute, which in sydney is stop start traffic , not really knee down suitable.
But thanks for your comments 👍
I don't have 2 inch chicken strips and I appreciate a rider chosing to upgrade his brakes for better performance. if most riders were doing sensible upgrades like this instead of wasting money on nonsense like power commanders on bikes with only slip ons, we'd have a lot less fatalities. If we, as riders, put in as much effort in to learning how to properly brake as we put in to wheelie, there'd be a lot of friends still with us.
Kudos OP. can't wait for 2. wanna do the same upgrade.