Hey everyone.... I am the owner of this car. Just thought I would comment for your further entertainment. I spent the 1000 plus trying to fix it, spread out over the summer because I was too dumb/aggravated to quit. I did some of the work myself and had a mechanic friend change some of the parts with my permission. I did mess with the peddle some but did not think of the plug since it throttled up so well.. Yes I am both happy and bummed at the same time LOL. If I would have known about Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics, I would have called him a lot quicker. On the oil consumption... I am fairly sure there was no engine rebuild like I was told.. Just a new head gasket. Our diagnosis by the end is that it needs rings and who knows what else.:( I bought it cheap to keep salt off my good vehicles. It runs great so I am just gonna dump oil in and run it.:) Oh and for all of you badmouthing Subaru... I have pulled two full size Chevrolet pickups and two other Subarus out of the ditch the last two winters. Twas hard on the clutch but...
My standard repair for high oil consumption is new valve stem seals and a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. Worked many times over the last 40 years. Nice work Ivan !!!
Sounds like its all ironed out now for the most part....some wear on the engine obviously, probably the previous owner(s) neglected a lot of routine maintenance, its out of warranty they start skipping everything they can on vehicles to save money so they think...most likely the reason they got rid of the car was the oil burning issue from lack of maintenance and probably a lot of sludge in the engine sadly. I'm not a Subaru fan, but I've been watching a vehicle reviewer's channel here on UA-cam and he's kind of changed my opinion of them quite a bit. I loved the old 80's Subaru GL 4x4 Wagons that had manual 4WD with low range though....The reviewer I've been watching has been doing some pretty interesting testing of his Wife's Subaru Outback Wilderness...I've been surprised where he's been able to take it...so many reviewers that bash the Subaru let off the accelerator every time a wheel spins, this guy just keeps the throttle steady and it is then able to sense where to put the power and it just goes...very interesting...no its not a rock crawler/offroader, but for snow/ice it'll handle it pretty well. I want an Outback Wilderness now thanks to that UA-cam reviewer LOL. Driving Sports TV is the channel I've been watching.
Thank you for the feedback, Kent! Was a pleasure to drive up the super-steep mountain and diagnose your Subaru :) With the engine having questionable history, it's hard to say what the root cause of the oil burning is. But oil is cheap, so wouldn't worry too much about it if it drives fine. The Suzuki XL-7 did great in the heavy snow on the drive back to PA with snow tires and 4x4. I took the lower-traffic route to avoid getting stuck behind trains of slowpokes haha
Dielectric grease will prevent future problems with that pedal connector. Disconnect it, pack it with grease, reconnect, and pack the outside openings of the connector.
A good friend had an older Subaru wagon several years ago, and that thing was a beast in the snow during the winter. He just had good all seasons on it and we plowed through stuff that I would have been hesitant in any other vehicle, and it never slowed one bit. His burned some oil, but as Ivan stated, oil is cheap and a lot easier to just add a quart and not deal with more expenses than necessary.
Excellent troubleshooting. As an electrician for 54 years, many, many problems were solved without troubleshooting by cleaning, tightening, lubricating and contact cleaner on the equipment, then testing. More times than not, that was all that was needed. I was called a miracle worker just by doing needed maintenance. Plant Production always has a budget for Production, but is continually looking for ways to cut or reduce required maintenance.
Good job. There is a procedure for calibrating the accelerator pos sensor. Monitoring with scan tool while calibrating helped me out once, as someone fiddled with the sensor not setting the zero pos correctly. Keep posting those videos.
Also over time calibration pots "drift" . I believe it's a quality issue related to planned obsolescence . I did electronics t-shooting for 50÷yrs ,and that became more and more typical as manufacturers became greedy .
Well done Ivan, another success. My wife drives a 2019 Forester we bought new, I wanted her to get a RAV4 but she really preferred the drive of the Forester, and the Subaru dealer was more willing to make a deal, which included a reasonable trade in for our Volvo XC60. Got to say our Forester is great in the snow, it's AWD is incredible, and 63,000 miles later not a single problem, but then again you should expect that from a new car.
Just hearing that engine warming up I’m using air quotes around the phrase rebuilt engine. They must have used the optional oval pistons! As far as oil consumption most forgot about the PCV valve in these. Couple of the Subaru engines I overhauled had stuck rings and clogged oil return holes behind the oil control rings. Especially on those cars with poor maintenance.
the statement rebuilt can mean many things,, some things can be considered rebuilt if you replace one part.. so always get detailed list of things to be done.
Wow man! You are a inspiration to me. I have the gift of just knowing whats going on with cars mechanically but you have what i wish i could have the technical know how to diagnose electronically. I love your channel.
Years ago I had a high idle on my 98 Chevy truck even after driving it for 30 miles and it being warmed up or so I thought. I shot the parts cannon at it with a new TPS which of coarse didn't fix it. I was talking to someone about it and told him the symptoms and he told me to change my thermostat because it sounds like it's stuck open and not allowing the truck to come up to full operating temperature. The temp gauge inside read about the same as it always did so I didn't think of that being a potential cause. I replaced the thermostat with a new AC-Delco one and it fixed the high idle problem. I guess the coolant temp sensor was reading the temps low enough and thought the truck was still in the initial warm up mode and kept the idle high.
Ivan and Kent: This was a great video. I'm pleased the repair did not require more parts. I wish you many miles of happy driving, Kent. Thanks so much for taking us on your path to repair, Ivan.
All new parts and some contact cleaner. That car should be good for 100K. Ivan, any thoughts about the oil consumption? Always fun and engaging watching you work through the process. Thanks for Sharing!
Ivan, you didn't get into the Oil Problem that you had said it had in the beginning of this Video. I was looking forward to that fix if there was one. Thanks for the upload Ivan.
Good show OL BOY Boots can be problem for APP sensors. I always lightly tap the pedal L/R and watch the % or the Voltage and ANY variation warrants a new APP . some people dont realize they hit the AP every time they enter the vehicle and this constant horizontal hit can cause a deviation in the rheostat in the APPS.
I knew you were going to say Dorman was junk. Their transfer case encoder motors are garbage. Put in an oem part after replacing the Dorman three times. No problems since!
I bought a 2005 2.5rs for fairly cheap due to intermittent high idle. Ended up being the exact same issue. Wiggled the accelerator pedal connector, and idle would return to normal.
Ivan. Same thing happened to me. Bought Poorman Pedal position assembly. Kept going into limp mode. I returned it. Went an bought a acdelco part. Truck pepper up and throttle response came back and no more limp mode.
Ivan proves that a good diagnosis is worth its weight in gold. I don't know what Ivan charges to drive to WV or what is hourly rate is, but I bet it's less than US$1K!
Great video Ivan. Recently got caught in a huge snow storm. This is gonna sound crazy. We were in my wife's 2014 Mini Cooper Countryman S with AWD. The car was amazing in the snow. Like a snow goat. I'm not a German car fan, but I have to give credit where credit is due. That Mini performed extremely well in white out conditions, etc., for thirty miles of very difficult road conditions.
I was watching another channel that does snow rescues in the Oregon mountains. He was commenting on how Subarus would let people get way further out in the wilderness before they got stuck in the deep snow. Nothing but a winch or a pull will help once you break through the icy crust with the frame is sitting on the crust with the wheels spinning in the powder.
I keep a few of those cans in stock at all times around here. I was having some intermittent turn signal, headlight and running light issues with the Volvo after getting it blasted with road salt during these past few storms. That was the fix! Just had a little salt in the connection, and DeOxit found a better connection. Thanks for showing that stuff! I bought it years ago after the first time you mentioned it.👍 Must've been fun driving home in that - everyone slows down to 10 MPH here in MA, so I can only imagine down there. Must've been frustrating. Good day to take backroads and play. Probably ends up faster anyway! 😁
I had a subaru way back when, seventies I think. Great little buggy, but it rusted to bits in three, four years. They dump so much road salt here in Detroit if it’s a daily commuter they don’t last long
I had a problem like this once it was for me a bad TPS it’s mechanical TPS it was stuck partly open reading 15% on the scan tool idling the vehicle too high. Little cleaning of the throttle and sensor fixed my issue
@@_RiseAgainst I have a 355 SBC roller in my 86 Grand Prix that I converted to a 5 speed stick. I can run that car hard and I get at least 1,500 before I need to top it up.
Excellent job Ivan. If I may add some constructive criticism, keep in mind, name brand components are being " bootlegged " every day, more and more. Spark plugs, oil filters, and yes electrical components, only to name a few. Denso, Bosch, NGK, nothing is off the table to scammers. GOD BLESS
Which is why you don't buy them from Amazon or Ebay. Pony up and buy them from a reputable source. Sure, they're more expensive. But the quality control is exactly what you're paying more for.
IVAN, AWESOME teaching/information really the way you approach any problem is great by just using the scanner and watching the pids and knowing the basics you fixed it always learning from the best thanks for sharing. cheeeers
Hello I have been watching your videos for years and love them I have been working on cars for years and work at a shop and finally got the money to buy this thinktool pros and I'm loving it. But I can't find any info anywhere on how to navigate the tool my question is how do u bring up the readiness mode?
Great videos as always Pine Hollow. Cant, we just have a normal accelerator pedal with the accelerator cable to the source? So simp[le and 99% lasted beyond the life of the car.
Ivan always does a great job, however, I didn't like how the pedal "stopped". I would have inspected that movement and sought a way to loosen it up. Maybe it was dampened, but it just looked like a little lubricant at the pivot might help.
Two weeks ago, I purchased the scan tool you are utilizing on this video, I used the amazon link you provide. It has outperformed the other 5 scan tools I own, it even worked on a 2021 vw with the bidirectional functions, Also, I had a couple of questions, called the support number and got great service, thanks for using that tool and for providing the link. On another note, curious if you ever use the "actual" and "commanded" lambda p.i.d.s. in conjunction with 5 gas analyzer lambda calculation in conjunction with fuel trim p.d.s. to determine wide band sensor accuracy for diagnostic and repair verification. So far, I only know of one other than my self that uses that strategy as part of action repertoire.
I bought this same scan tool last October because of Ivan's recommendation and also used the Amazon link. It's definitely the best scanner out of the four that I own.
My ford escape had a crazy high idle and turned out the alternator was causing sensors to go crazy. I ended up driving it for 3 days until my headlights went dim and stalled out. Limp it home after a jump start and replaced alternator which fixed all issues.
It seemed odd to me that the computer must have been measuring both pots in the peddle, but if there was a confusion/imbalance between pot readings the computer should have stopped the engine for safety. Maybe im expecting too much from a bag of chips lol.
First thing to check on any vehicle, piece of equipment, or a machine that is exposed to weather...electrical connections....they all "corrode"...oxidize. It wasn't a bad idea to change the pedal, due to it's age.
Enjoying lunch with my dog and another PHAD case study 👍. I took family to the mountains for a snowy getaway, walked the dogs all around the community, and thought there was a SUBARU convention. Greater than 50% of homes had at least one in the driveway. Note to self: "Retire to mountains and open Subaru shop 😆."
Just like an older stereo with rheostat type volume controls and input switches with the pots that carbon up. This could have occured as the car sat not being used while the engine was rebuilt.
That's amazing, that was my wife's first Subaru we got a new one in 09 because I fit a little bit better, her's was flawless while we had it, still driving the 09 but we've started shopping for a new one, she's leaning towards the Mazda currently
Nice work Ivan the guy I work for I tell him Dorman sucks he ordered a Dorman part for his car one week later asked me to look at it I told get the part from GM it was a VVT selinoid he just won't learn so I'm going to open my own shop
@13:41 where the graph for "Mail-Accelerator Sensor" is, the spelling for sensor is way way off... c'mon Think . Great video Ivan, and good to see you and Keith, what a treasure trove of knowledge
Eric, I had a case where the computer was expecting to see a purge but would not so it was running lean and revs would go up and down. The computer compensates for purge flow but when there isnt any flow, it acts up and the reason there was an up and down of the RMP was because of the duty cycle. I had no codes for this car or any clue, just the fact that the idle would not stay stable. Replaced the purge valve and I verified that it was nor getting stuck open and it wasnt. Interesting case nonetheless.
When it opens the purge it probably thinks your at part throttle going down the road since the throttle percentage increases… I’ll just be quiet and watch the rest of the video, lol…
I wish I had u to help me on my truck I have replaced lots of parts it a 98 Chevy Silverado was driving and it just starts driving it salf it start to rev up on its Owen I replaced the idle air control. Vale and it still does it when starting it revs up real high and come down I unplugged the throttle position sensor and it does not have a high idle doesn’t try to pull its salf Would it be bad or what would cause it
I wonder if Ivan stepping on the pedal trying to recreate the problem actually fixed the problem momentarily. My money is that sensor still needing an adjustment in the future. .
My first thought was my Volvo that needed to have the electronic throttle module recalibrated periodically. Luckily figured out there was a trick where you turn key on without starting engine and wait a minute -- you can actually hear the ETM clicking as it recalibrates -- then you have to turn key off for like another 30 seconds so it saves the settings... or something like that... was a while ago. I'm sure it's different for other vehicles anyways.
Привет, Иван ! Там ещё есть параметр по педали idle sw - on/ off . По этому параметру видно четко будет,что педаль якобы нажата. Мотор обороты сразу закидывает вверх если в режиме офф. Там свечи поди менять уже, 3,4 пропуски. ;-) .
@@monsonlockandkey and don't let the head gaskets make you forget all the wheel bearings, calipers, cv boots and joints, front seal leaks, people often forget all that.
@@Sonichu_is_watching this is my opinion, and it's been a few years, but by the early 2000s they just weren't tough cars anymore. In the 80s and 90s their awd was ahead, but by the time the crv and rav were on the market, Subaru builds were weak garbage. Again, just my experience.
nice video, Ivan! a contact cleaner did the trick! now everything is hunky dory! wow, that is HIGH idle! that would scare me for good, haha! scanner graphing goes a long way!! great job! many thumbs up!!
Hi, great video as always! I was wondering what the reason could be for the changing voltage on your scan tool while the engine is running at constant RPM?
Hi Ivan..I watched your Krown video and wondered how it is performing. I read a few reviews that indicated that it may swell your soft rubber items like door seals. Have you noticed this?
Isn't there a song about this...?! Almost half-there, in West Virginia, Still-is-not-fixed, money spent in Rivers. Getting old here, praying on my knees, Parts in mountains, all of them Chinese. SU-BA-RU, take me home, to the place, I need-to-go! Stuck-in-Virginia, engine rebuilt, please you run, wrong-mass-flow...
Hey Ivan, Curious on that scan tool you're using is there's additional software needed or a subscription service you need to pay for along with the scan tool tablet?
Hey everyone.... I am the owner of this car. Just thought I would comment for your further entertainment. I spent the 1000 plus trying to fix it, spread out over the summer because I was too dumb/aggravated to quit. I did some of the work myself and had a mechanic friend change some of the parts with my permission. I did mess with the peddle some but did not think of the plug since it throttled up so well.. Yes I am both happy and bummed at the same time LOL.
If I would have known about Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics, I would have called him a lot quicker.
On the oil consumption... I am fairly sure there was no engine rebuild like I was told.. Just a new head gasket. Our diagnosis by the end is that it needs rings and who knows what else.:( I bought it cheap to keep salt off my good vehicles. It runs great so I am just gonna dump oil in and run it.:)
Oh and for all of you badmouthing Subaru... I have pulled two full size Chevrolet pickups and two other Subarus out of the ditch the last two winters. Twas hard on the clutch but...
My standard repair for high oil consumption is new valve stem seals and a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. Worked many times over the last 40 years. Nice work Ivan !!!
Sounds like its all ironed out now for the most part....some wear on the engine obviously, probably the previous owner(s) neglected a lot of routine maintenance, its out of warranty they start skipping everything they can on vehicles to save money so they think...most likely the reason they got rid of the car was the oil burning issue from lack of maintenance and probably a lot of sludge in the engine sadly.
I'm not a Subaru fan, but I've been watching a vehicle reviewer's channel here on UA-cam and he's kind of changed my opinion of them quite a bit. I loved the old 80's Subaru GL 4x4 Wagons that had manual 4WD with low range though....The reviewer I've been watching has been doing some pretty interesting testing of his Wife's Subaru Outback Wilderness...I've been surprised where he's been able to take it...so many reviewers that bash the Subaru let off the accelerator every time a wheel spins, this guy just keeps the throttle steady and it is then able to sense where to put the power and it just goes...very interesting...no its not a rock crawler/offroader, but for snow/ice it'll handle it pretty well. I want an Outback Wilderness now thanks to that UA-cam reviewer LOL. Driving Sports TV is the channel I've been watching.
Thank you for the feedback, Kent! Was a pleasure to drive up the super-steep mountain and diagnose your Subaru :) With the engine having questionable history, it's hard to say what the root cause of the oil burning is. But oil is cheap, so wouldn't worry too much about it if it drives fine. The Suzuki XL-7 did great in the heavy snow on the drive back to PA with snow tires and 4x4. I took the lower-traffic route to avoid getting stuck behind trains of slowpokes haha
Dielectric grease will prevent future problems with that pedal connector. Disconnect it, pack it with grease, reconnect, and pack the outside openings of the connector.
A good friend had an older Subaru wagon several years ago, and that thing was a beast in the snow during the winter. He just had good all seasons on it and we plowed through stuff that I would have been hesitant in any other vehicle, and it never slowed one bit. His burned some oil, but as Ivan stated, oil is cheap and a lot easier to just add a quart and not deal with more expenses than necessary.
Good work my friend. Even when a customer says it’s new don’t let it change your diag process. That’s why you’re the man!
Excellent troubleshooting. As an electrician for 54 years, many, many problems were solved without troubleshooting by cleaning, tightening, lubricating and contact cleaner on the equipment, then testing. More times than not, that was all that was needed. I was called a miracle worker just by doing needed maintenance. Plant Production always has a budget for Production, but is continually looking for ways to cut or reduce required maintenance.
Nice diagnosis as always! What a great reminder to all of us to start with the basics and keep it simple.
This mechanic is brilliant and an amazing technician. Wish he was here in New Jersey...
Good job.
There is a procedure for calibrating the accelerator pos sensor. Monitoring with scan tool while calibrating helped me out once, as someone fiddled with the sensor not setting the zero pos correctly.
Keep posting those videos.
Also over time calibration pots "drift" . I believe it's a quality issue related to planned obsolescence . I did electronics t-shooting for 50÷yrs ,and that became more and more typical as manufacturers became greedy .
Another awesome diagnosis and "no parts required" fix Ivan! Thank you for taking us along.. Cheers!
It’s crazy how the purge valve was there just throwing you a curveball haha. Great diag/fix Ivan!
Hah it was idling perfect, then went up like a switch! Never seen that before...
Well done Ivan, another success. My wife drives a 2019 Forester we bought new, I wanted her to get a RAV4 but she really preferred the drive of the Forester, and the Subaru dealer was more willing to make a deal, which included a reasonable trade in for our Volvo XC60. Got to say our Forester is great in the snow, it's AWD is incredible, and 63,000 miles later not a single problem, but then again you should expect that from a new car.
Just follow the maintenance schedule especially in regards to timing chains, water pumps and radiators on the subarus
Just hearing that engine warming up I’m using air quotes around the phrase rebuilt engine. They must have used the optional oval pistons! As far as oil consumption most forgot about the PCV valve in these. Couple of the Subaru engines I overhauled had stuck rings and clogged oil return holes behind the oil control rings. Especially on those cars with poor maintenance.
Very much this! Soak and clean the Pistons, check the oil holes, and a new PCV valve
the statement rebuilt can mean many things,, some things can be considered rebuilt if you replace one part.. so always get detailed list of things to be done.
Wow man! You are a inspiration to me. I have the gift of just knowing whats going on with cars mechanically but you have what i wish i could have the technical know how to diagnose electronically. I love your channel.
Nice job Ivan. I wouldn't have believed that would have been the problem. Though you had it with the purge valve.
Years ago I had a high idle on my 98 Chevy truck even after driving it for 30 miles and it being warmed up or so I thought. I shot the parts cannon at it with a new TPS which of coarse didn't fix it. I was talking to someone about it and told him the symptoms and he told me to change my thermostat because it sounds like it's stuck open and not allowing the truck to come up to full operating temperature. The temp gauge inside read about the same as it always did so I didn't think of that being a potential cause. I replaced the thermostat with a new AC-Delco one and it fixed the high idle problem.
I guess the coolant temp sensor was reading the temps low enough and thought the truck was still in the initial warm up mode and kept the idle high.
Yup Toyotas do that too. Definitely need a scanner to read the numerical data vs. a needle on the cluster :)
Owner off svx and legacy and a Forester xt 2.0 sg5 and hawe no complaints!!
Ivan and Kent: This was a great video. I'm pleased the repair did not require more parts. I wish you many miles of happy driving, Kent. Thanks so much for taking us on your path to repair, Ivan.
All new parts and some contact cleaner. That car should be good for 100K. Ivan, any thoughts about the oil consumption? Always fun and engaging watching you work through the process. Thanks for Sharing!
Most likely it has the original rings and thats why its burning oil. Needs new ones
That might be the first APP diag we've seen on this channel. Well done Ivan. Thanks!
Actually I had another one... On a Subaru! That one was limp home 😁😉
Ivan, you didn't get into the Oil Problem that you had said it had in the beginning of this Video. I was looking forward to that fix if there was one. Thanks for the upload Ivan.
Good show OL BOY
Boots can be problem for APP sensors. I always lightly tap the pedal L/R and watch the % or the Voltage and ANY variation warrants a new APP .
some people dont realize they hit the AP every time they enter the vehicle and this constant horizontal hit can cause a deviation in the rheostat in the APPS.
'Main-Accelerator Snesro' on the scan tool is my favourite snesro.😜
Great work. Thank you for taking us along for the ride.
I knew you were going to say Dorman was junk. Their transfer case encoder motors are garbage. Put in an oem part after replacing the Dorman three times. No problems since!
"Main-Accelerator Snesro" 🤪 on the OEM data screen 🤣🤣
Good job on the diagnosis 👍
I bought a 2005 2.5rs for fairly cheap due to intermittent high idle. Ended up being the exact same issue. Wiggled the accelerator pedal connector, and idle would return to normal.
Ivan. Same thing happened to me. Bought Poorman Pedal position assembly. Kept going into limp mode. I returned it. Went an bought a acdelco part. Truck pepper up and throttle response came back and no more limp mode.
Ivan proves that a good diagnosis is worth its weight in gold. I don't know what Ivan charges to drive to WV or what is hourly rate is, but I bet it's less than US$1K!
Great video Ivan. Recently got caught in a huge snow storm. This is gonna sound crazy. We were in my wife's 2014 Mini Cooper Countryman S with AWD. The car was amazing in the snow. Like a snow goat. I'm not a German car fan, but I have to give credit where credit is due. That Mini performed extremely well in white out conditions, etc., for thirty miles of very difficult road conditions.
Any AWD, especially with snow tires, is amazing in the snow :)
I was watching another channel that does snow rescues in the Oregon mountains. He was commenting on how Subarus would let people get way further out in the wilderness before they got stuck in the deep snow. Nothing but a winch or a pull will help once you break through the icy crust with the frame is sitting on the crust with the wheels spinning in the powder.
Yep, still gotta use some common sense!
Anything with with 4 wheel drive will get you farther in the ditch😀
I keep a few of those cans in stock at all times around here. I was having some intermittent turn signal, headlight and running light issues with the Volvo after getting it blasted with road salt during these past few storms. That was the fix! Just had a little salt in the connection, and DeOxit found a better connection. Thanks for showing that stuff! I bought it years ago after the first time you mentioned it.👍
Must've been fun driving home in that - everyone slows down to 10 MPH here in MA, so I can only imagine down there. Must've been frustrating. Good day to take backroads and play. Probably ends up faster anyway! 😁
I had a subaru way back when, seventies I think. Great little buggy, but it rusted to bits in three, four years. They dump so much road salt here in Detroit if it’s a daily commuter they don’t last long
I had a problem like this once it was for me a bad TPS it’s mechanical TPS it was stuck partly open reading 15% on the scan tool idling the vehicle too high. Little cleaning of the throttle and sensor fixed my issue
and now that is fixed the engine needs to come out to rebuild it, the amount of oil it's burning the engine has major issues
@K.B. ANDERSEN. This one is double to quadruple that though, that *is* an issue
@K.B. ANDERSEN. my old Chevy doesn't burn a drop. Where is me environmentalist of the year award?
@@_RiseAgainst I have a 355 SBC roller in my 86 Grand Prix that I converted to a 5 speed stick. I can run that car hard and I get at least 1,500 before I need to top it up.
Knowing how to interpret the readings is the key to success.
Nearly impossible to figure that out without an all access scan tool.
A bad idle "position" switch or contact, can be a challenge!
Yes, knowing where "idle position" is is very important. Especially when it sticks right around that value.
A micro-stuck gas peddle??? Who woulda guessed? Good job, Ivan!
Excellent job Ivan. If I may add some constructive criticism, keep in mind, name brand components are being " bootlegged " every day, more and more. Spark plugs, oil filters, and yes electrical components, only to name a few. Denso, Bosch, NGK, nothing is off the table to scammers.
GOD BLESS
Which is why you don't buy them from Amazon or Ebay. Pony up and buy them from a reputable source. Sure, they're more expensive. But the quality control is exactly what you're paying more for.
@@johnemberton408 so true John people wonder how they got it so cheap
@@johnemberton408 Fake parts are everywhere. I shop at Oreilly's or the dealer.
Even some GM dealers were getting fake Chineseum spark plugs, it's ridiculous for parts!!!!
@@mattcat231 I heard about that but did not know if it was true.
Subarus are absolutely fantastic vehicles, extremely reliable and will run rings around most other cars in wintry conditions.
The unofficial official vehicle of NH and VT! They are great vehicles, especially since you can find them with manuals.
@@volvo09 Untill they get around one hundred thousand miles on them and need the leaking head gaskets replaced.
IVAN, AWESOME teaching/information really the way you approach any problem is great by just using the scanner and watching the pids and knowing the basics you fixed it always learning from the best thanks for sharing. cheeeers
Hello I have been watching your videos for years and love them I have been working on cars for years and work at a shop and finally got the money to buy this thinktool pros and I'm loving it. But I can't find any info anywhere on how to navigate the tool my question is how do u bring up the readiness mode?
Great videos as always Pine Hollow. Cant, we just have a normal accelerator pedal with the accelerator cable to the source? So simp[le and 99% lasted beyond the life of the car.
Big brother won’t allow it
Ivan always does a great job, however, I didn't like how the pedal "stopped". I would have inspected that movement and sought a way to loosen it up. Maybe it was dampened, but it just looked like a little lubricant at the pivot might help.
Two weeks ago, I purchased the scan tool you are utilizing on this video, I used the amazon link you provide.
It has outperformed the other 5 scan tools I own, it even worked on a 2021 vw with the bidirectional functions,
Also, I had a couple of questions, called the support number and got great service, thanks for using that tool and for providing the link.
On another note, curious if you ever use the "actual" and "commanded" lambda p.i.d.s. in conjunction with 5 gas analyzer lambda calculation in conjunction with fuel trim p.d.s. to determine wide band sensor accuracy for diagnostic and repair verification. So far, I only know of one other than my self that uses that strategy as part of action repertoire.
Bernie???
I bought this same scan tool last October because of Ivan's recommendation and also used the Amazon link. It's definitely the best scanner out of the four that I own.
My ford escape had a crazy high idle and turned out the alternator was causing sensors to go crazy. I ended up driving it for 3 days until my headlights went dim and stalled out. Limp it home after a jump start and replaced alternator which fixed all issues.
It seemed odd to me that the computer must have been measuring both pots in the peddle, but if there was a confusion/imbalance between pot readings the computer should have stopped the engine for safety.
Maybe im expecting too much from a bag of chips lol.
Maybe goes into limp mode if too much imbalance between pedal sensors.
Theres two in case one fails, it would be pretty bad if your lost acceleration on the highway. It should throw a CEL though, maybe a flashing one
First thing to check on any vehicle, piece of equipment, or a machine that is exposed to weather...electrical connections....they all "corrode"...oxidize. It wasn't a bad idea to change the pedal, due to it's age.
Darn! I was betting it was something to do with the EGR valve, which might have also tied in the oil consumption.
I was thinking the same - certainly a vacuum leak of some mechanical origin - until I saw the MAF reading high at the high idle.
Enjoying lunch with my dog and another PHAD case study 👍. I took family to the mountains for a snowy getaway, walked the dogs all around the community, and thought there was a SUBARU convention. Greater than 50% of homes had at least one in the driveway. Note to self: "Retire to mountains and open Subaru shop 😆."
Just like an older stereo with rheostat type volume controls and input switches with the pots that carbon up. This could have occured as the car sat not being used while the engine was rebuilt.
That's amazing, that was my wife's first Subaru we got a new one in 09 because I fit a little bit better, her's was flawless while we had it, still driving the 09 but we've started shopping for a new one, she's leaning towards the Mazda currently
Nice work Ivan the guy I work for I tell him Dorman sucks he ordered a Dorman part for his car one week later asked me to look at it I told get the part from GM it was a VVT selinoid he just won't learn so I'm going to open my own shop
@13:41 where the graph for "Mail-Accelerator Sensor" is, the spelling for sensor is way way off... c'mon Think . Great video Ivan, and good to see you and Keith, what a treasure trove of knowledge
Yes, when I saw "snersro" I was trying to figure out what that word was, not even thinking "sensor" right away. Funny.
Saw that. "Main-Accelerator Snesro". Confession time: I saw that PID and went to lookup "snesro" 🤦
I continue to be impressed with your acumen. Humbled.
Another fix! Great job Ivan!
Great job, Ivan! 👍
“Expensive contact cleaner” you got that right 🤣. I bought it. It’s an expensive for small can 🙈. Great job
but one squirt fixed what $1000 in new parts couldn't
Eric, I had a case where the computer was expecting to see a purge but would not so it was running lean and revs would go up and down. The computer compensates for purge flow but when there isnt any flow, it acts up and the reason there was an up and down of the RMP was because of the duty cycle. I had no codes for this car or any clue, just the fact that the idle would not stay stable. Replaced the purge valve and I verified that it was nor getting stuck open and it wasnt. Interesting case nonetheless.
Eric may or may not see this comment 😅
When it opens the purge it probably thinks your at part throttle going down the road since the throttle percentage increases…
I’ll just be quiet and watch the rest of the video, lol…
Heaps of the Nissan tidas and Forrester maybe different problem was it doing burn freeway easier with scantool
The throttle position sensor allways stuffs up if U replace the timing chains and water pump had the same problem rev and down in its own
"If it's Dorman, its junk!"
It is disturbing how Dorman is still in business.
Dorman yells, "SHOTS FIRED" 😆
May as well just nuke them and be done. But they do make some stuff that nobody else will. I wish they would just make it decent.
I wish I had u to help me on my truck I have replaced lots of parts it a 98 Chevy Silverado was driving and it just starts driving it salf it start to rev up on its Owen I replaced the idle air control. Vale and it still does it when starting it revs up real high and come down I unplugged the throttle position sensor and it does not have a high idle doesn’t try to pull its salf Would it be bad or what would cause it
My bet (at the start of the video) is on the accelerator paddle.
I wonder if Ivan stepping on the pedal trying to recreate the problem actually fixed the problem momentarily. My money is that sensor still needing an adjustment in the future. .
My first thought was my Volvo that needed to have the electronic throttle module recalibrated periodically. Luckily figured out there was a trick where you turn key on without starting engine and wait a minute -- you can actually hear the ETM clicking as it recalibrates -- then you have to turn key off for like another 30 seconds so it saves the settings... or something like that... was a while ago. I'm sure it's different for other vehicles anyways.
@@godblesshamas On an old Rover or Classic Mini, you need to press the pedal 5 times quickly to recalibrate the TPS (cable operated system)
@@_RiseAgainst or it could be connector pin tension issue. If it is, it will come back after unplug/plug.
Terrific diagnosis.
Plug the vacuum line for the purg car fixed.
Привет, Иван ! Там ещё есть параметр по педали idle sw - on/ off . По этому параметру видно четко будет,что педаль якобы нажата. Мотор обороты сразу закидывает вверх если в режиме офф. Там свечи поди менять уже, 3,4 пропуски. ;-) .
After owning 4 Subarus over my life, hearing that signature sound of the motor firing up, it makes me so happy there will never be a 5th.
How many head gasket jobs?
I am surprised this garbage company is still on the US market.
What was the last straw?
@@monsonlockandkey and don't let the head gaskets make you forget all the wheel bearings, calipers, cv boots and joints, front seal leaks, people often forget all that.
@@Sonichu_is_watching this is my opinion, and it's been a few years, but by the early 2000s they just weren't tough cars anymore. In the 80s and 90s their awd was ahead, but by the time the crv and rav were on the market, Subaru builds were weak garbage. Again, just my experience.
Ivan excellent video and diag as always! Graphing data for the win and of course appropriate pids.
Great content! Thank you for sharing!
Dorman is the worst! "Yeah I already changed the gas pedal" 🤣
my first thought before watchig the video was the pedal position sensor.
I always thought that the new throttle body had to be calibrated before it will function as designed?
It amazes me how alot of customers throw 1000s of dollars on throwing parts at a vehicle....but bitch about a diag fee to get it done right.
I think it's a sort of mental block - some people need to SEE something for their money, like some shiny new parts, not just experience something.
nice video, Ivan! a contact cleaner did the trick! now everything is hunky dory! wow, that is HIGH idle! that would scare me for good, haha! scanner graphing goes a long way!! great job! many thumbs up!!
Great job as usual. Not sure about the oil burning & the engine misfire codes. Great video.
I had a low idle on an 04 throttle body cleaning remedied most of it of course had to let engine manament relearn
If it was a dorman pedal no amount of Deoxit can fix that junk. Glad to see another no parts required!
Depends... is Deoxit flammable?
That's crazy to throw all those parts Bad shops. I have a 2011 outback and 2017 legacy wife's do all the work on them.
Hi, great video as always! I was wondering what the reason could be for the changing voltage on your scan tool while the engine is running at constant RPM?
So after all that high idling that dude never once put his foot under that gas pedal and lifted it up?
IKR.
Good fix Ivan.
Ivan........You are a Machine.
Wow that was awesome would of never imagined how that would turn out! Great job!
Good job sharing
Hi Ivan..I watched your Krown video and wondered how it is performing. I read a few reviews that indicated that it may swell your soft rubber items like door seals. Have you noticed this?
My 2009 Forester XT has the opposite problem. It's idle goes so low sometimes it wants to stall out. Getting a little hesitation now and then too.
Clean the throttle body 👌
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I'll give that a shot next time I have the car. Thanks I appreciate it.
I Ivan happy birthday my man hope you enjoyed NC trip take care AJ
Isn't there a song about this...?!
Almost half-there, in West Virginia, Still-is-not-fixed,
money spent in Rivers.
Getting old here, praying on my knees,
Parts in mountains, all of them Chinese.
SU-BA-RU, take me home, to the place, I need-to-go!
Stuck-in-Virginia, engine rebuilt, please you run, wrong-mass-flow...
Way back in the 1970's Subaru had an ad that said "eww, eww Subaru" so whenever we'd see one come into the shop we'd say "uh oh Subaru!"
Are you happy with your THINK TOOL tool? Do you like it over Autel and or Launch? Thanks
Good video and thanks to Bass Hunter who posted the deoxit demystified link.
Hey Ivan, Curious on that scan tool you're using is there's additional software needed or a subscription service you need to pay for along with the scan tool tablet?
2 years free updates :)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics is the Alldata required separately or included with the tablet bundle for 2 years?
@@DJ_Driven ALLDATA is a separate service 👍
Did you do anything about the EVAP code? Or was the customer just concerned about the idle issue?
There was no bonus footage 🧐😌😔🥺😭
When my 1978 4x4 Brat worked good it was "Suba-Do!" "when it broke it was "Suba-Doo Doo"
I now only Go Toyota ,Lexus or Hondas (made in Japan,Pre 2007 Crvs)
Always start with the basics, as others have said. Snow and an uncontrolled accelerator equal disaster.
You didn’t mention anything more on the oil consumption. I know Subarus are notorious for that!
Probably not good I would say as so called rebuilt may be a big problem for sure and those cats are week to start with and they hate oil
Main-Accelerator "Snesro" lol
Every Subaru burn oil it's the way was made the motor is horizontal starts they always is oil in the cylinder
Isn't there some type of adjustment that you need to set when you replace the accelerator potetiometers?
Like a relearn? I'd think so. But I also suspect these cars learn over time.
would a fsm have the correct values to be able to adjust these when replacing?
Ivan which type of Deoxit do you use?
I have a Subaru outback 2009 and it idles very rough until I clear the check engine light it runs smooth what do you think that is
Main-Accelerator Snesro? Me thinks your scanner has been at the local pub a few too many hours before you used it this time! Lmao.