In the early 90s I came across a 1982 Honda Accord for sale. It was covered with dirt from sitting. The owner was driving it, & it cut out on the freeway. Everything shutdown. She took it to Honda, & they replaced all kinds of parts. A few days later it happened again, so she took it to another shop, & they continued to replace everything they could think of. She drove away, & it cut out again. She had it towed home again, & was afraid to drive it. I bought it for 300 hundred bucks. I was grateful for all the new parts! It made it home , without cutting out. I spent a few hours going over everything under the hood. Then, While letting it run, I started grabbing the wires underneath the dash, & It shut down. It was a connector green with corrosion. I'm not sure how the water made its way under the dash, but I paid 50Cents for the connector at the JY. That sure was a nice little car.
The owner of the Acura was my favorite part of this video. A good-natured guy, in spite of spending lots of time and money on this problem. He even participated in the video!
What a weird problem! Luckily, Keith (the encyclopedia of weird cases), was able to save you the time it would take to chase goblins down the wiring. Great diagnostic and hats off to Keith.
@@calholli the answer is not that obvious if you dont know. What makes us master techs is that we know what to look for. Loose connections, contact points that may break a wire with vibration and especially, what to test.
After cleaning the contacts mate and un-mate the connector a couple times. Then apply Deoxit D100 in the needle applicator bottle to the male pins re-connect and test for proper operation. If operation okay, you can then seal the wire side of the connector with Grote Ultra-Seal. The Ultra-Seal will keep the water out. Usually the power feed and power return for a specific function will route through a common connector. In this case, if you do not have the ability to replace a pin, you could add a connector and move the circuit power (which has the bad pin) and the return using a Deutsch DTM 2 Pin connector. You can select either a bent style crimp pin or a barrel style pin. Most common are either Tin plated or Nickle plated. Pins with Gold plating are available but very expensive. If this is done it is generally good practice to tie wrap the added connector to the parent connector.
I have an 04 Maxima with intermittent click-no start issues. I've tried new brushes, new solenoid on my starter, new relay, new grounding cable, i checked voltage drop on positive and negative side i even tried a new starter and a new battery - couldn't get rid of the problem. One day i just grabbed a handful of wires under my dashboard and wiggled them and the problem was fixed. The car has been starting super strong for a few years with zero issues. (The new starter was returned and i'm still using my old original starter) After a few years the same issue is back but not as bad. It's time for some wiggle-wiggle again. I may try kicking some things too 😄
I doubt he paid 4k for those parts especially cuz they are from ebay not even dealer, they charged me 1200 for the whole immobilizer system (key ignition and everything thats talking in that circuit)
Reminds me of the reason why my parents got such a good deal on the 2001 Durango they bought in 2006 and i still drive today. The ignition switch behind the key tumbler and lock was shorting out and when you tilted the steering wheel to driving position, all the dash lights, radio and front blower would go off, tilt uo and it all came back on. It was replaced with a Mopar OEM unit and it worked great til 2019. I replaced the unit again with a Dorman unit snd it's actually built a little stronger and does not flex like the oem/Valeo unit. Its channels like yours, Eric O and Rainman Ray's that help me keep 2 20 plus year old Dodges on the road and running great! Great job as usual Ivan!
Your a top notch troubleshooter, I'd hire you in a second. I do have one constructive criticism comment. I've watched a lot of your video's and I've heard you say a few times it has to be a module. I was an electronics technician for 40 years and I have seen some weird stuff, bad grounds and crusties acting like resistors that can cause some weird results. So maybe don't be so quick to say it has to be a module even though you are usually right. Please don't take this as negativity, I give you top marks on your skills and I'm still learning too. In fact I learn a lot about cars from you. Keep the videos coming.
I had the same type of no start problem intermittently on a 2006 Accord. First problem I fixed was the ECU that had some damage from water dripping from the AC system. It was actually physically corroded the aluminum box and insides so I cleaned it up, put some spray plastic type stuff meant for circuit boards on the ecu board and sealed the casing better. That corrected the problem for a while but the final fix was to simply replace the ground wiring after which I had no issues with starting and no longer the green immobilizer symbol.
I have a 2002 ACRUA MDX that I bought early 2020.. It has 3 rows of leather seats that fold down, heated seats and heated mirrors, moon roof, COLD dual climate AC that works TOO well.. it's AWD; has 3.5L vtec (j35A3) engine. It's in emaculate shape, zero rust, zero dents, not a single drop of leaking oil anywhere on this thing.. It had 155k miles and I got it for $1700 off of FB marketplace. lol.. over 2 years later and I'm still thrilled about it. It's such an incredible car........ It has an interference engine though, and I'm not sure if it has ever had a timing belt done on it. So that's on the list of things to knock out sometime in the future... I love these things though. Absolutely flawless design, even back in 2002. Everyone is trying to copy this exact crossover shape/ style and function, ect... -- and Acura got it right all the way back then..... I used my Xtool D8 to make extra keys and fobs for it. What a find-- I'm still pinching myself.
That was it, you got my 2011 acura mdx up and running after 3 trips to honda, new immobilizer and reprogramming and still intermittent issue exactly like this car. I took your expertise and advise and now it's all good. Thank you so much
Up until the point you rang Keith, you were so convinced it had to be a module problem and not a wiring/connection issue. That it turned out to be the latter after all must have left your mind reeling a bit, Ivan. Feel for you. Experience can be painful, but you just passed another milestone. ✌Thank you for letting us be a part of that journey. 👍
19:50 "It's not a wiring problem" When you said that I thought that is only if you have a direct short to power or ground. If you have a short through resistance such as corrosion or to a wire that has resistance through a module you can get all kinds of crazy reactions. I'm glad Keith got you pointed in the right direction and you were able to get it fixed for the customer. Keith is insane.
@claura - Dang man you have to write in the appropriate language. What kind of stupid BOT are you? I write in English, you respond in English. Is it that difficult? How are BOTS going to take over the world with this ignorance?
Crazy how Honda builds cars with pattern failures that luckily transfer from vehicle to vehicle. I always say they’re not perfect but very well built cars! Great find bro!
Hey Ivan, when you asked yourself the question "would I have found that failing footwell connector on my own?" I think you would have, given the right circumstance. But I'd say Keith just earned himself lunch. LOL. But my personal experience tells me, does the vehicle have a sunroof? If answer is yes, it may be worth a look in the footwell areas for signs of water intrusion. This is great content Ivan! A perfect example of what to look for. Thanks for sharing this.
Good job Ivan & Kudos to Kieth as well. In diagnostics you can never have too much experience. Even more critical with intermittent failures. Makes for a very good video. Glad your customer is satisfied.
Awesome repair. If there were more techs like you we could put dorman and half the non oem parts suppliers out of business. Although it doesn't address the planned obsolescence you speak of.
My favorite fixes are the no parts required ones. That was going to be a biatch to track down though. Amazing Keith ran across that and kicked the panel and found out. Divine intervention. Our cars here in So Cal are only impacted by heat. We have no rain or rust so ideal conditions for cars to survive. You'd be amazed what you see still running out here.
That MDX body style were notorious for water leaks through the roof rails and A pillar and water would always find its way behind the MICU. Good find 👍
What have you done to me??? I don't own an Acura or a Kia or any of the 30 other vehicles you've repaired. Your video's are backyard mechanic crack...just can't leave it alone. Love your systematic approach and thought full presentation. Your knowledge astounds me. Thanks for the great videos and for sharing.
Wow, that's very intermittent problem!! But Keith to the rescue!!! He saved your ass on that one lol. Glad he remembered the specific problem and got that connector fixed. Great video and great job, Ivan! Many thumbs up!
I'm going to say this again on your channel you may remember. But you and other guys like you that are in the engineering realm of car repairs following all these wiring diagrams and diagnosing u must form some type of network. One guy may go through something give advice to another guy etc etc individually you figure out problems but collectively someone else may have already figured it out. Even if you have to monetize it somehow but you got to share this with everybody somehow a lot of mechanics out there put a new part in and hope it works and wasting thousands and thousands of dollars. Anyway don't know much about cars but admire your knowledge very much you don't get paid enough
Just wanted to wish you and your family a Merry Christmas. I also want to thank you for reaching out to us all, providing some of us how to properly diagnose and make repairs. Your skills and knowledge in which you provide is so beneficial for us all, thank you.
Love the videos Ivan. No criticism here just an observation. You can buy bulk assortments of OEM male and female connector pins for all makes and just re-pin the bad connector pin(s). It's very easy to do once you get the hang of it which I know you have the skill set. A special crimping tool is needed and an assortment of pin extractors for releasing the pin, all of which is very inexpensive. With a little practice there is no need to order harnesses or disable other systems in the car and the repair is 100 percent at the time of diagnosis.
You originally said. It’s intermittent and only occurs when you move the steering column, so it has to be wiring. Then you see the raised voltage and completely forget how the problem occurs and start chasing rabbits. Thankfully Keith pointed you again to the right path because it always had to be a wiring issue.
Plug and socket just there as an aid to enable original manufacture. Without sealing boots over both plug and socket and in an area close to the door hinge, adjacent to the sunroof drain and under a windscreen, that is a GTF design feature where GTF means "Guaranteed To Fail" Permanent fix is to remove both plug and socket housings, cut off male and female terminals, cut back wires to a corrosion free area and solder join each wire pair in turn with heat shrink over each soldered joint, then heat shrink over whole soldered joints area then inject neutral cure silicon sealant around every wire at both ends of the large heat shrink to make effectively a hermetically sealed joint. Great fault analysis Ivan and Keith!
I know you would have got to the cause eventually, but you had already told yourself that it was a module problem and definitely not a wiring problem. Several modules were already tried and sitting on the table. That experience Keith has really pays off, and now this problem will not phase you again! You know... until you check that wire first and it's completely clean.
Yes, Ivan, unbelievable. Nice that you gave Keith the credit on this fix - makes you an honorable man. Oh, I flew into Binghamton, once, in the Winter, and there was snow piled VERY high on each side of the runway. I was working on my Commercial license and my instructor was with me. He was actually delivering something there, and offered me to fly the trip for more experience. Was a memorable trip. ha, ha.
In all honesty I believe you would of found the problem. I know Keith helped short cut the find but I do believe you would of found it eventually. Its nice to have someone as knowledgeable as Keith in your corner. You just gotta know when to call him. It's a better learning experience when found on its own but unfortunately time and money doesn't always make it possible.
A love for your job and a photographic memory are "must haves" to be a good diagnostician/repairman. I am an instructor for the local Hvac apprenticeship and have been a repairman since 1973. Awesome video YOU GUYS ARE AMAZING!....
You gotta love identifazio!!!! Nice work Ivan. Water leaks and electrical connectors are never a good mix. Ivan would you be so kind as to tell us where you sourced your tweezers and other connector cleaning tools? Please keep up the incredible case studies Ivan loving every bit of it!!!
It just brings a head shake and grin when you call Keith and he’s spot on. Either way Ivan you were all over that You knew what the fault was. Nothing wrong with the “Phone a friend” Especially intermittent issues
Man what a great video. Your my newest favorite channel! I enjoy watching your troubleshooting skills, and have learned a thing or 2 from you. Electrical is probably my least favorite thing on a car, so I love watching people who are good at it.
I'm surprised that you don't have the terminal ends for those connectors. Somebody will forget and put that fuse back in. Cutting the wire and bypassing the connector might have been a better option.
I was thinking similarly. would have been easy to bypass the factory connector, just for that one wire, and leave it adjacent to original where it would have been fairly obvious for the next guy. but great diag in any case. Thanks for sharing it Ivan!
You had a fault to VBAT and the immobilizer output is an open drain transistor with some series resistance to the transistor drain. The +5V is the normal logic that this immobilizer output is pulled up with a resistor at the partner to this module. All automotive outputs must tolerate VBAT so a fault list this one does not destroy an output resulting in a new module. Faults like this are the bane of electronics.....
Amazing diagnostic path and another connector failure solved by use of logic and the best tool of all, a generous, very experienced technician. DeOxit I've got, but not the right size brush and "tweezer" files. What do I search for or how to get them? Renovating an old land cruiser and the connectors are a mess. You are another example of excellence through dedication to purpose in America!
Hi, Kudos to Keith and to you to have the humility to ask him for help. If you don't ask you don't get. Many thanks for ALL your excellent and VERY informative videos. From Nr Liverpool UK.
Holy Cow. Having a mate who's been in the ring before can relate crazy stuff. Connector in the side panel?? Green Kreep shorting 12v to a com wire. What a pal. You knew when to call.
I'm not a mechanic but it's nice that when in a corner Ivan always has someone with the tidbit of information that will help out. Really enjoyed this one.
Moving a part and flexing a wiring harness causing errors screams of intermittent wiring issues. It is also one of the most difficult problems to troubleshoot. My Lexus LS400's horn would not work, sometimes. I trouble shot it for what seemed like forever. The horn slipring, yada, yada.... then come to find out, there is a ground wire, in the steering wheel that is connect with a closed head crimp terminal, and the insulated ground wire was separated exactly at the end of the insulation and the crimp end of the terminal lug. Visually, it looked exactly fine, thick insulation on the wire butted right up to the terminal. It was hardwired but the wire had been misrouted ever so little that it was slightly rubbing on a piece of the column when it automatically extended. It was enough that over 15 years, it broke right at the terminal crimp. Big problem finding that, but the terminal was mounted in such a way that it was impossible to access the bolt that held the terminal lug. I ended up carefully soldering the wire back onto the terminal lug. That in itself was a huge challenge. I had been soldering electronics for over 25 years in my job, so I got it done. I also re-routed the wire out of harms way.
That one was wild indeed! You would never find a problem like that without the aid of a scope unless you just accidently stumbled up on it. Great diagnosis and video. Amazing what problems a few green crusties can and will cause.
Great job for sharing. I am sure you would have found the issue after the owner called you back. Great to have friends, we can't know it all. But you do a great job at it. Love the analysis you do and explanation! God Bless you!!
I had a similar problem on an 05 Accord. Dealer put in a new ign sw and and customer got new fobs. Worked until the daughter drove the car and moved the column. Several wires were just about broken thru. The catch here was the immobilizer unit DID NOT show the new updated key fobs, yet it WOULD run until the column was moved. After the wiring repairs, it had to be reprogrammed, as a no crank no start. Figure that 1 out!
My step-daughter bought a 06 Civic (without me checking it out) that ran for 3 days, then CNS, or so she said. It was actually a mobilzer issue, due to her "womanizing" her dash with shiny girly stuff, including a beauty ring around the ignition switch. Once I realized the problem and removed the ring, it started & runs fine! That accessory was blocking the switch from reading the transponder in the key!
Another top of the line video. Wonder how many sold/traded their vehicles off because of this issue. Reminds me of the flooding of the trunks on BMW's.
PSA: It's not a bad idea to use eye protection when spraying contact cleaner... I've gotten chemical burns on my hands a few times from CRC QD, would hate to get a drop in my eye.
I used to be a tech at an Acura dealer. Water leaks into all 4 corners of those are very common and cause a lot of issues since there are fuse boxes in 3 out of 4 corners. The leak is usually from the body seam where the roof attaches to the upper pillars on the roof, very easy to fix
I second this, 9 years at Acura. Still with Honda though. Reseal the roof seams or it'll just happen again. Lucky it didn't fry the MICU or rear fuse box, gets expensive quick!
Seen leaks from a lot of SUVs, one of them actually was due t ok the foamy double sided tape that the manufacturer used which we all know that over time it becomes brittle and starts to disintegrate. We removed the whole rooftop and applied sealant around the frame and sat the rooftop assembly on it and that thing was going to be there permanently. Not sure why the manufacturer choose to use that material, perhaps to service the rooftop more easily but the job was big enough to justify doing a permanent repair. This was a dual view sunroof so it was a large assembly that went all the way to the back.
You were on the right diagnostic path. Keith helped you get there a little more quickly! Like some of the older Ford trucks. WATER did it's damage to that connector. Maybe a clear plastic bag or a large piece of split loom wrapped around the connector and wiring would divert the water away from that connector.
First amazing patience tracking that down ,but that rite there is a great example of what water can do to today's vehicles. I literally can't count how many problems my shop has seen because of leaking sun roofs,windows seals,door seals.but excellant video again my man
That was a great vid IVAN>you've done a lot of the green crusty's ones before but this was special in that you asked for help,and Kieth DAfacio came through with a needle in the haystack idea and it was right on the money.i really think 90 % of mechs,would just keep firing the parts canon until the barrel melted or the customer ran out of money.what makes it such a good lesson is THAT IT'S AN INTERMITTENT ISSUE.Those are the hardest to repair.I'm sure this guy had no issues paying you for travel time.i know if it was me>>i would send a stretch limo to pick you and your wife up and take you back wherever you wanted to go.haha
That's so funny that that Jedi Master Keith just happens to remember that same problem (who would have guessed?....LOL) I remember years back when you and Eric were diagnosing a Buick and were joking that Keith had seen everything and you are correct. You guys wanted him to start making videos and it funny that when he does they are 5 to 9 minutes long because he already knows the answer before he starts...LOL. Awesome troubleshooting Ivan and I was wondering if you could give more detail on Anti-ox spray and custom cleaning tweezers and where you can get these? Thanks so much for another great video.
In this sort of instance I would of also packed the connector with die electric grease - if that area is susceptible to water entry either fluid film or die electric grease to keep it more resistant to water. Wow! Ivan great job done there...
Keith has reached mythical proportions to his mastery, truly a walking encyclopedia of car mysteries. Ivan is like Batman and Keith is like Superman except there is no Keith kryptonite unless, possibly, it is Vodka?
You surely don't owe me a thing. Glad to share the knowledge and happy it led you right to the problem! Great video brother , see you soon!
Thanks Keith! I shall call this the "Keith Kick Test" from now on :))
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics went from a tap test, to a kick test.
That escalated quickly lol
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 also don't forget the patented "Keith Tug Test"😁
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I think you need to invest in a rubber mallet :)
I also owe Keith one, it was 2 bad fuel injectors in my mom's van and a faulty rad cap causing the water loss
In the early 90s I came across a 1982 Honda Accord for sale. It was covered with dirt from sitting. The owner was driving it, & it cut out on the freeway. Everything shutdown. She took it to Honda, & they replaced all kinds of parts. A few days later it happened again, so she took it to another shop, & they continued to replace everything they could think of. She drove away, & it cut out again. She had it towed home again, & was afraid to drive it. I bought it for 300 hundred bucks. I was grateful for all the new parts! It made it home , without cutting out. I spent a few hours going over everything under the hood. Then, While letting it run, I started grabbing the wires underneath the dash, & It shut down. It was a connector green with corrosion. I'm not sure how the water made its way under the dash, but I paid 50Cents for the connector at the JY. That sure was a nice little car.
The owner of the Acura was my favorite part of this video. A good-natured guy, in spite of spending lots of time and money on this problem. He even participated in the video!
What a weird problem! Luckily, Keith (the encyclopedia of weird cases), was able to save you the time it would take to chase goblins down the wiring. Great diagnostic and hats off to Keith.
It's not really that weird when you have water dripping from your windshield. smh...
@@calholli the answer is not that obvious if you dont know. What makes us master techs is that we know what to look for. Loose connections, contact points that may break a wire with vibration and especially, what to test.
Yes@@scientist100
After cleaning the contacts mate and un-mate the connector a couple times. Then apply Deoxit D100 in the needle applicator bottle to the male pins re-connect and test for proper operation. If operation okay, you can then seal the wire side of the connector with Grote Ultra-Seal. The Ultra-Seal will keep the water out.
Usually the power feed and power return for a specific function will route through a common connector. In this case, if you do not have the ability to replace a pin, you could add a connector and move the circuit power (which has the bad pin) and the return using a Deutsch DTM 2 Pin connector. You can select either a bent style crimp pin or a barrel style pin. Most common are either Tin plated or Nickle plated. Pins with Gold plating are available but very expensive. If this is done it is generally good practice to tie wrap the added connector to the parent connector.
I have an 04 Maxima with intermittent click-no start issues. I've tried new brushes, new solenoid on my starter, new relay, new grounding cable, i checked voltage drop on positive and negative side i even tried a new starter and a new battery - couldn't get rid of the problem.
One day i just grabbed a handful of wires under my dashboard and wiggled them and the problem was fixed. The car has been starting super strong for a few years with zero issues. (The new starter was returned and i'm still using my old original starter)
After a few years the same issue is back but not as bad. It's time for some wiggle-wiggle again. I may try kicking some things too 😄
Keith is a man with impeccable memory and experience! Good person to have in your corner. Good find!
that guy is like the yoda of auto diagnostics
@@John-wz3iu he have a channel?
@@johnnywood8082 ua-cam.com/users/NewLevelAuto
But he hasn't posted since he left Staten Island
$4k for "Green Crusties" 😮...... This proves that Ivan is always right about never using the parts cannon without a proper diagnostic. Well done 👍
I doubt he paid 4k for those parts especially cuz they are from ebay not even dealer, they charged me 1200 for the whole immobilizer system (key ignition and everything thats talking in that circuit)
@@RexerYTRexer Can't leave out the labour Bro, it's Parts and Labor. So whoever did the previous diagnostics didn't do a good job.
I mean Ivan was ready to pull the parts cannon trigger, even though the owner already played swaptronics...
The owner was too fucking stupid to Google? Apparently so…..
Reminds me of the reason why my parents got such a good deal on the 2001 Durango they bought in 2006 and i still drive today. The ignition switch behind the key tumbler and lock was shorting out and when you tilted the steering wheel to driving position, all the dash lights, radio and front blower would go off, tilt uo and it all came back on. It was replaced with a Mopar OEM unit and it worked great til 2019. I replaced the unit again with a Dorman unit snd it's actually built a little stronger and does not flex like the oem/Valeo unit. Its channels like yours, Eric O and Rainman Ray's that help me keep 2 20 plus year old Dodges on the road and running great! Great job as usual Ivan!
Your a top notch troubleshooter, I'd hire you in a second. I do have one constructive criticism comment. I've watched a lot of your video's and I've heard you say a few times it has to be a module. I was an electronics technician for 40 years and I have seen some weird stuff, bad grounds and crusties acting like resistors that can cause some weird results. So maybe don't be so quick to say it has to be a module even though you are usually right. Please don't take this as negativity, I give you top marks on your skills and I'm still learning too. In fact I learn a lot about cars from you. Keep the videos coming.
I had the same type of no start problem intermittently on a 2006 Accord. First problem I fixed was the ECU that had some damage from water dripping from the AC system. It was actually physically corroded the aluminum box and insides so I cleaned it up, put some spray plastic type stuff meant for circuit boards on the ecu board and sealed the casing better. That corrected the problem for a while but the final fix was to simply replace the ground wiring after which I had no issues with starting and no longer the green immobilizer symbol.
I have a 2002 ACRUA MDX that I bought early 2020.. It has 3 rows of leather seats that fold down, heated seats and heated mirrors, moon roof, COLD dual climate AC that works TOO well.. it's AWD; has 3.5L vtec (j35A3) engine. It's in emaculate shape, zero rust, zero dents, not a single drop of leaking oil anywhere on this thing.. It had 155k miles and I got it for $1700 off of FB marketplace. lol.. over 2 years later and I'm still thrilled about it. It's such an incredible car........ It has an interference engine though, and I'm not sure if it has ever had a timing belt done on it. So that's on the list of things to knock out sometime in the future... I love these things though. Absolutely flawless design, even back in 2002. Everyone is trying to copy this exact crossover shape/ style and function, ect... -- and Acura got it right all the way back then..... I used my Xtool D8 to make extra keys and fobs for it. What a find-- I'm still pinching myself.
I'm really impressed
With your awesome Diagnostics...
You indeed Nailed It!.. Green Cruistes...4k grands for replacement of innocent parts😢
Keith has diagnosed thousands of cars. How in the heck did he remember hitting the left kick panel in a Honda? Incredible. Good friend to have.
That feeling at 26:30 when you pop the connector out and a hail of green dust follows 👏
Brilliant deduction! I had such a grin on my face when you found the pesky problem!!
That was it, you got my 2011 acura mdx up and running after 3 trips to honda, new immobilizer and reprogramming and still intermittent issue exactly like this car. I took your expertise and advise and now it's all good. Thank you so much
That's awesome!! You would think the dealers would know about this apparently common issue lol!
keith defazio top graduate of the staten island school of diagnostics and every weird wired auto the man is a legend
Up until the point you rang Keith, you were so convinced it had to be a module problem and not a wiring/connection issue. That it turned out to be the latter after all must have left your mind reeling a bit, Ivan. Feel for you. Experience can be painful, but you just passed another milestone. ✌Thank you for letting us be a part of that journey. 👍
19:50 "It's not a wiring problem" When you said that I thought that is only if you have a direct short to power or ground. If you have a short through resistance such as corrosion or to a wire that has resistance through a module you can get all kinds of crazy reactions. I'm glad Keith got you pointed in the right direction and you were able to get it fixed for the customer. Keith is insane.
Great fix! Keith came through with help! That's awesome! The owner looked overjoyed to know it's going to be fixed!
OMG, the Keith guy is clutch, I mean talk about random facts and remembering odd cases, that's nuts!!!
That was incredible! That’s wild that Keith pulled that from memory. Now, fix that smoke alarm chirp….😊
@claura - Dang man you have to write in the appropriate language. What kind of stupid BOT are you? I write in English, you respond in English. Is it that difficult? How are BOTS going to take over the world with this ignorance?
Ivan these customers don't know how fortunate they are to have you. You are absolutely at the top of the automotive diagnostic food chain.
One of the best automotive diagnostic channels on yt imo.
Crazy how Honda builds cars with pattern failures that luckily transfer from vehicle to vehicle. I always say they’re not perfect but very well built cars! Great find bro!
I truly miss Keith's 3 min long video's.
Glad to hear he's still got his head in it. Hope his wife and son are loving the new life.
Hey Ivan, when you asked yourself the question "would I have found that failing footwell connector on my own?" I think you would have, given the right circumstance. But I'd say Keith just earned himself lunch. LOL. But my personal experience tells me, does the vehicle have a sunroof? If answer is yes, it may be worth a look in the footwell areas for signs of water intrusion. This is great content Ivan! A perfect example of what to look for. Thanks for sharing this.
No, now Keith owes Ivan lunch - the diagnostic charge is less!
another awesome video good job and big thanks to Keith 😎👍🏾
Your diags are becoming more interesting as u go along, Thanks a lot for sharing.
Good job Ivan & Kudos to Kieth as well. In diagnostics you can never have too much experience. Even more critical with intermittent failures. Makes for a very good video. Glad your customer is satisfied.
Awesome repair. If there were more techs like you we could put dorman and half the non oem parts suppliers out of business. Although it doesn't address the planned obsolescence you speak of.
Very good diagnostic ❤ i followed you since one year ago and i get a lot of information every time i watched your video
Wow. What a case study. And Kieth might be the GOAT…..This is what you love to do Ivan. Solve the mysteries others cannot. Wow.
My favorite fixes are the no parts required ones. That was going to be a biatch to track down though. Amazing Keith ran across that and kicked the panel and found out. Divine intervention. Our cars here in So Cal are only impacted by heat. We have no rain or rust so ideal conditions for cars to survive. You'd be amazed what you see still running out here.
Nice to phone a Guru when you need it.....Give him a 9 volt for the chirping smoke alarm Damn....Nice one Ivan.
I like the pulling of all resources and a fix. Awesome content
holy cow that it was amazing who would have ever thought a dang connection and a kick panel is going to affect your smart key crap
Love these complicated cases, makes my brain think!!! Great job Ivan and Keith!!
Wow, Keith to the rescue. That call saved a bunch of time. You would probably have gotten there but man oh man, what a fix! Super cool!
That MDX body style were notorious for water leaks through the roof rails and A pillar and water would always find its way behind the MICU. Good find 👍
What have you done to me??? I don't own an Acura or a Kia or any of the 30 other vehicles you've repaired. Your video's are backyard mechanic crack...just can't leave it alone. Love your systematic approach and thought full presentation. Your knowledge astounds me. Thanks for the great videos and for sharing.
That is awesome troubleshooting, no idea why I'm watching your videos.
Wow, that's very intermittent problem!! But Keith to the rescue!!! He saved your ass on that one lol. Glad he remembered the specific problem and got that connector fixed. Great video and great job, Ivan! Many thumbs up!
I'm going to say this again on your channel you may remember. But you and other guys like you that are in the engineering realm of car repairs following all these wiring diagrams and diagnosing u must form some type of network. One guy may go through something give advice to another guy etc etc individually you figure out problems but collectively someone else may have already figured it out. Even if you have to monetize it somehow but you got to share this with everybody somehow a lot of mechanics out there put a new part in and hope it works and wasting thousands and thousands of dollars. Anyway don't know much about cars but admire your knowledge very much you don't get paid enough
This just happened to me... i was all over the place... and came across this video... thanks 🙏🙏
Thank you Ivan. We just bought a 2012 MDX.
Good job. Always love the No Part Required repairs. Keith is brilliant for having remembered that problem. Miss his videos. Thanks!
Great diagnosis,Keith the legend,also you for asking,you are both very good diagnosis techs,and the best bit ,you found the cause,and the fix.
Good old water intrusion and of course Keith and his wealth of stored information..
Just wanted to wish you and your family a Merry Christmas. I also want to thank you for reaching out to us all, providing some of us how to properly diagnose and make repairs. Your skills and knowledge in which you provide is so beneficial for us all, thank you.
Love the videos Ivan. No criticism here just an observation. You can buy bulk assortments of OEM male and female connector pins for all makes and just re-pin the bad connector pin(s). It's very easy to do once you get the hang of it which I know you have the skill set. A special crimping tool is needed and an assortment of pin extractors for releasing the pin, all of which is very inexpensive. With a little practice there is no need to order harnesses or disable other systems in the car and the repair is 100 percent at the time of diagnosis.
You originally said. It’s intermittent and only occurs when you move the steering column, so it has to be wiring. Then you see the raised voltage and completely forget how the problem occurs and start chasing rabbits. Thankfully Keith pointed you again to the right path because it always had to be a wiring issue.
Had nothing to do with the steering column. That was just a coincidence. Those rabbits are tricky 🐇
Another happy customer. Well done!
Plug and socket just there as an aid to enable original manufacture. Without sealing boots over both plug and socket and in an area close to the door hinge, adjacent to the sunroof drain and under a windscreen, that is a GTF design feature where GTF means "Guaranteed To Fail" Permanent fix is to remove both plug and socket housings, cut off male and female terminals, cut back wires to a corrosion free area and solder join each wire pair in turn with heat shrink over each soldered joint, then heat shrink over whole soldered joints area then inject neutral cure silicon sealant around every wire at both ends of the large heat shrink to make effectively a hermetically sealed joint.
Great fault analysis Ivan and Keith!
That would definitely be a long term fix! Interior connectors are never sealed since the manufacturer never expected them to get wet 😅
Fantastic job. Always a pleasure seeing and learning from your videos. Thank you so much for posting them.
Thanks Luis!
I know you would have got to the cause eventually, but you had already told yourself that it was a module problem and definitely not a wiring problem. Several modules were already tried and sitting on the table. That experience Keith has really pays off, and now this problem will not phase you again! You know... until you check that wire first and it's completely clean.
Nice. I feel bad for this poor guy. These things shouldn't happen. Proves that Information is key to everything. Great job as usual Ivan!
Yes, Ivan, unbelievable. Nice that you gave Keith the credit on this fix - makes you an honorable man. Oh, I flew into Binghamton, once, in the Winter, and there was snow piled VERY high on each side of the runway. I was working on my Commercial license and my instructor was with me. He was actually delivering something there, and offered me to fly the trip for more experience. Was a memorable trip. ha, ha.
You are fantastic with that scope, would not have found it without the scope and your knowledge of using it. People like you and Keith are invaluable.
Great Job Ivan! Keith did not not disappoint.
Keith and Ivan . Two legends of automotive diagnostics.
In all honesty I believe you would of found the problem. I know Keith helped short cut the find but I do believe you would of found it eventually. Its nice to have someone as knowledgeable as Keith in your corner. You just gotta know when to call him. It's a better learning experience when found on its own but unfortunately time and money doesn't always make it possible.
Would HAVE not would OF
A love for your job and a photographic memory are "must haves" to be a good diagnostician/repairman.
I am an instructor for the local Hvac apprenticeship and have been a repairman since 1973. Awesome video YOU GUYS ARE AMAZING!....
You gotta love identifazio!!!! Nice work Ivan. Water leaks and electrical connectors are never a good mix. Ivan would you be so kind as to tell us where you sourced your tweezers and other connector cleaning tools? Please keep up the incredible case studies Ivan loving every bit of it!!!
Thanks Dave! Tweezers were a gift from a viewer years ago...
It just brings a head shake and grin when you call Keith and he’s spot on.
Either way Ivan you were all over that
You knew what the fault was. Nothing wrong with the “Phone a friend”
Especially intermittent issues
Man what a great video. Your my newest favorite channel! I enjoy watching your troubleshooting skills, and have learned a thing or 2 from you. Electrical is probably my least favorite thing on a car, so I love watching people who are good at it.
Thanks Rick! Plenty to learn every day, welcome to the unpredictable world of auto diagnostics 🙂
No doubt you would've traced the cause of elevated voltage but nice to have Keith save you a couple of steps and lots of time...
I'm surprised that you don't have the terminal ends for those connectors. Somebody will forget and put that fuse back in. Cutting the wire and bypassing the connector might have been a better option.
I was thinking similarly. would have been easy to bypass the factory connector, just for that one wire, and leave it adjacent to original where it would have been fairly obvious for the next guy. but great diag in any case. Thanks for sharing it Ivan!
Nothing beats experience. You were narrowing it down. Great diagnostic work
Kieths a legend what doesn’t this guy know
Tenacity certainly pays off Ivan. Don’t forget that little lifeline your friend threw your way! Excellent information.
You had a fault to VBAT and the immobilizer output is an open drain transistor with some series resistance to the transistor drain. The +5V is the normal logic that this immobilizer output is pulled up with a resistor at the partner to this module.
All automotive outputs must tolerate VBAT so a fault list this one does not destroy an output resulting in a new module. Faults like this are the bane of electronics.....
Great work! Amazing content as always!
Love how Keith has had that problem before , Master Tech ! Thanks Ivan !
Amazing diagnostic path and another connector failure solved by use of logic and the best tool of all, a generous, very experienced technician. DeOxit I've got, but not the right size brush and "tweezer" files. What do I search for or how to get them? Renovating an old land cruiser and the connectors are a mess. You are another example of excellence through dedication to purpose in America!
Hi, Kudos to Keith and to you to have the humility to ask him for help. If you don't ask you don't get. Many thanks for ALL your excellent and VERY informative videos. From Nr Liverpool UK.
Holy Cow. Having a mate who's been in the ring before can relate crazy stuff. Connector in the side panel?? Green Kreep shorting 12v to a com wire. What a pal. You knew when to call.
I'm not a mechanic but it's nice that when in a corner Ivan always has someone with the tidbit of information that will help out. Really enjoyed this one.
'Phone-a-friend' option comes in handy !
Moving a part and flexing a wiring harness causing errors screams of intermittent wiring issues. It is also one of the most difficult problems to troubleshoot.
My Lexus LS400's horn would not work, sometimes. I trouble shot it for what seemed like forever. The horn slipring, yada, yada.... then come to find out, there is a ground wire, in the steering wheel that is connect with a closed head crimp terminal, and the insulated ground wire was separated exactly at the end of the insulation and the crimp end of the terminal lug. Visually, it looked exactly fine, thick insulation on the wire butted right up to the terminal. It was hardwired but the wire had been misrouted ever so little that it was slightly rubbing on a piece of the column when it automatically extended. It was enough that over 15 years, it broke right at the terminal crimp.
Big problem finding that, but the terminal was mounted in such a way that it was impossible to access the bolt that held the terminal lug. I ended up carefully soldering the wire back onto the terminal lug. That in itself was a huge challenge. I had been soldering electronics for over 25 years in my job, so I got it done. I also re-routed the wire out of harms way.
That one was wild indeed! You would never find a problem like that without the aid of a scope unless you just accidently stumbled up on it. Great diagnosis and video. Amazing what problems a few green crusties can and will cause.
Awesome job. Best diagnosis I've seen. Weird problem, but you handled it well. Great job. You're the best.
Great job for sharing. I am sure you would have found the issue after the owner called you back. Great to have friends, we can't know it all. But you do a great job at it. Love the analysis you do and explanation! God Bless you!!
I had a similar problem on an 05 Accord. Dealer put in a new ign sw and and customer got new fobs. Worked until the daughter drove the car and moved the column. Several wires were just about broken thru. The catch here was the immobilizer unit DID NOT show the new updated key fobs, yet it WOULD run until the column was moved. After the wiring repairs, it had to be reprogrammed, as a no crank no start. Figure that 1 out!
My step-daughter bought a 06 Civic (without me checking it out) that ran for 3 days, then CNS, or so she said. It was actually a mobilzer issue, due to her "womanizing" her dash with shiny girly stuff, including a beauty ring around the ignition switch. Once I realized the problem and removed the ring, it started & runs fine! That accessory was blocking the switch from reading the transponder in the key!
Womanizing 🤣
That was awesome, you and Keith never fail to impress Ivan !
Another top of the line video. Wonder how many sold/traded their vehicles off because of this issue. Reminds me of the flooding of the trunks on BMW's.
PSA: It's not a bad idea to use eye protection when spraying contact cleaner... I've gotten chemical burns on my hands a few times from CRC QD, would hate to get a drop in my eye.
I used to be a tech at an Acura dealer. Water leaks into all 4 corners of those are very common and cause a lot of issues since there are fuse boxes in 3 out of 4 corners. The leak is usually from the body seam where the roof attaches to the upper pillars on the roof, very easy to fix
I second this, 9 years at Acura. Still with Honda though. Reseal the roof seams or it'll just happen again. Lucky it didn't fry the MICU or rear fuse box, gets expensive quick!
Seen leaks from a lot of SUVs, one of them actually was due t ok the foamy double sided tape that the manufacturer used which we all know that over time it becomes brittle and starts to disintegrate. We removed the whole rooftop and applied sealant around the frame and sat the rooftop assembly on it and that thing was going to be there permanently. Not sure why the manufacturer choose to use that material, perhaps to service the rooftop more easily but the job was big enough to justify doing a permanent repair. This was a dual view sunroof so it was a large assembly that went all the way to the back.
excellent find. mid way through the video I said to myself Its gotta be a pin, or a connection. Its simply corrosion! great find
You were on the right diagnostic path. Keith helped you get there a little more quickly!
Like some of the older Ford trucks. WATER did it's damage to that connector. Maybe a clear plastic bag or a large piece of split loom wrapped around the connector and wiring would divert the water away from that connector.
First amazing patience tracking that down ,but that rite there is a great example of what water can do to today's vehicles. I literally can't count how many problems my shop has seen because of leaking sun roofs,windows seals,door seals.but excellant video again my man
That was a great vid IVAN>you've done a lot of the green crusty's ones before but this was special in that you asked for help,and Kieth DAfacio came through with a needle in the haystack idea and it was right on the money.i really think 90 % of mechs,would just keep firing the parts canon until the barrel melted or the customer ran out of money.what makes it such a good lesson is THAT IT'S AN INTERMITTENT ISSUE.Those are the hardest to repair.I'm sure this guy had no issues paying you for travel time.i know if it was me>>i would send a stretch limo to pick you and your wife up and take you back wherever you wanted to go.haha
That Kieth is a walking Talking Silver Bullet!
That's so funny that that Jedi Master Keith just happens to remember that same problem (who would have guessed?....LOL) I remember years back when you and Eric were diagnosing a Buick and were joking that Keith had seen everything and you are correct. You guys wanted him to start making videos and it funny that when he does they are 5 to 9 minutes long because he already knows the answer before he starts...LOL. Awesome troubleshooting Ivan and I was wondering if you could give more detail on Anti-ox spray and custom cleaning tweezers and where you can get these? Thanks so much for another great video.
DeoxIT, got mine at Guitar center
I’m in the electronics field and have been using Deoxit D5 for 30 years! Great stuff.
How much talent an knowledge between you and Keith.
have a great day!
Very interesting Ivan! Keith for the win!
It's good to (know) the King of Diag. :D
In this sort of instance I would of also packed the connector with die electric grease - if that area is susceptible to water entry either fluid film or die electric grease to keep it more resistant to water. Wow! Ivan great job done there...
Keith has reached mythical proportions to his mastery, truly a walking encyclopedia of car mysteries. Ivan is like Batman and Keith is like Superman except there is no Keith kryptonite unless, possibly, it is Vodka?