Peter I’ve watched you for years and this is my first comment. You are very informative and I think all of us appreciate your thorough descriptions of the repairs. We love our Toyotas and we love watching you :-)
I found this video to be extremely useful in diagnosing my leak. The removal process however was not the same. I have an '05 Toyota tundra SR5. The 14 mm bolt being removed at 3:29 in the video is one of four that hold the AC compressor mounted to a bracket. The removal of the bracket shown at 4:16 does NOT expose the nut shown at 4:28. In order to expose this nut, the AC compressor bolts must be taken out, the compressor moved but not disconnected or removed, and the mounting bracket unbolted and removed to expose this nut. The vehicle shown as a Sequoia and as I mentioned I have a Tundra. Hope this is helpful to anyone trying to DIY this repair. I had to find it out the hard way.
Great video. A few people were asking about torque specs for those bolts. Per the Hayes manual torque spec for all 3 bolts is 168 in/lbs ( 14 ft/lbs) Hope that helps everyone
Does this certainly apply to the v8 engine? I also saw the same torque specs in the Haynes and Chilton manual, but they both refer to the 4.0L V6 engine while they have no specs for the V8.🤷♂️ (I believe they put the specs in the wrong section. None of the V6 engines have an oil filter bracket assembly.)
Peter, your videos are so useful and the cadence of the descriptions are very satisfying. I had this very same issue and had the same failed figure 8 o-ring. You are saving us DIY mechanics $$$ and extending the lives of our beloved Toyotas. Thank you for these videos.
Thanks again for the great video. I just did this job and learned a few lessons for the beginner doing it on the driveway: It is best to loosen the coolant hoses first while the adapter is still bolted on. I was not able to swap the gasket with the coolant hoses still attached, so I had to mount the adapter back on to remove the hoses, because they were stuck pretty tight and I needed some leverage to get them off. Also, have extra OEM hose clamps in case one breaks (happened in my case). As a side note, I learned that screw type hose clamps are not recommended, as they will loosen over time. The OEM gasket seemed to fit better than the Mahle, which I had as a backup. Lastly, be mindful how to clean surfaces and gasket area. Break cleaner apparently attacks plastic, rubber and paint, so a milder degreaser would be better. The job took me 3 hours total, and I think I would be able to do it in less than 1 hour the second time around (hopefully not needed for a while :-) ).
❤❤❤ do for the video I wish everybody was there this clear and concise when they made these kind of videos I have to do this same job tomorrow because it's leaking oil from the exact bolt that you said in your video
There is another round seal on the back of the oil cooler that leaked on mine. I replaced it a couple years ago, now this one is leaking. Thanks for the video.
Peter, thanks so much for the informative video. I replaced the o ring on the oil filter housing..... no luck on oil leak. Going to try this and see if it fixes this leak!
Now try that same job on a Land Cruiser. Total PIA, rack and pinion and frame provide little space to work. Taking this housing on/off was the most difficult part for me when replacing my steering rack. Sequoia’s apparently make this job a breeze.
I've got to do the same on my 98' LC, after looking at it for a while, I figured it would be a lot more complicated then this. Any tips, tricks, or special tools you found?
Hi friend 👋 thanks so much for saving the bumper repair video. I know you like to tinker and the joy of you being able to do one of a kind things like that needs to be captured like the quality time for us the viewer and yourself. Take care ptr.
Love your videos!!! I can't get mine off of my 2001 Tundra as the ac compressor blocks one bolt. Worked on it for a few hours coming back and looking at your video and instructions many times. That top bolt is UNDER the ac compressor. Tried loosening the ac comp bolt and could barely see the bolt head under it with a light and mirror. Do you know if I have to remove the ac comp on Tundra 4.7? I thought that they were the same, but it seems that this arrangement is different. Please keep doing these fabulous videos!!!
@@brownfunny1 Yes. I had to take the A/C compressor bolts out and gently pry the compressor out of the way in order to access that one bolt that was behind the compressor bracket. What an insane idea of mounting the oil filter adapter. I got some hose clamp things to pinch off the radiator cooling hoses, so that I could totally remove the adapter and get that old crumbly o-ring out of it. It worked!!!
@@diablo24guitar Im in the same boat. gunked motor super clean. it appears to be coming from the same spot. It was running down on top of the oil pan and a slow drip off the drain plug. I had zero oil leaks that i knew of. Changed timiming belt and water pump and radiator two months agoafter my kids blew water pump on parkway. Thought I got away with the repair and started seeing oil in driveway. after a few weeks of searching I believe this is the issue NOT a warped head. Thanks for the advice with ac pump
Really love your videos. This one is just right on time for me. My 2008 Lexus GX470 is leaking engine oil from oil filter. I suspect is this seal need to be replaced. Thank you!
Thank you thank you thank you...mine was a little different...I had to removed the ac compressor. Well unbolt it to get to the rest of the housing. Thank you!
Thank you, great video. I believe I have the same problem on my 03 4Runner and will try to replace the figure 8 gasket without taking the whole assembly off. BTW, I saw in another video that there is one more gasket between the oil cooler piece (the round piece with the hoses connected to it) and the main body of the assembly. That gasket has a diameter similar to the oil filter. Has anyone had issues with that?
I know this is an older video but is this the same filter bracket as on a 2006 4Runner with the 4.7 V8? I cracked the housing when I replaced my oil pressure switch
I have this same leak. Started 2 weeks after an oil change and would only show up when the engine heated up (and made the oil thin). I did the repair and it seemed fixed...until it heated up and started to leak, somewhat worse than before. I don't think I mis-seated the gasket, but might not have torqued down the bolts correctly. Going to try again with a new $2 gasket. Should I also add some RTV?
Have you done the seals for a 5.7L 3UR-FE engine? I believe I have a leak at the filter housing and it seems to be coming out through a bolt. Let me know if you had to drain the oil and coolant for this to replace the seals.
Seen other videos they just clamp the hoses to the coolant before the job. Oil drain is needed since you’re replacing filter, catch in a clean bucket and drop it back in
That's more of a Ford and Dodge thing. Actually any engine that has an external oil filter housing bracket. On Ford 5.4 and 4.6, you have the two oil passages right next to the water inlet. Oil, being higher pressure than coolant, enters the cooling system and causes puking at the relief cap. At least coolant doesn't go in the oil. Still way too common. A gasket with impregnated silicone o rings is not enough. Lasts about 7 years tops.
I cannot see the top nut...same motor in a bouble cab tundra....it looks like it's under the ac compressor. Any confirmation from anyone with the same setup?
was it oil or coolant? I have a very similar leak from the same spot on my GX but it looks like coolant. I am worried its the water pump then I see this video and wonder if its an issue like this
When you can watch the oil dripping out, that is when you HAVE to fix the leak. A tiny oil seep which never reaches the ground, you can generally ignore unless the oily dirt under there bothers you.
Peter I’ve watched you for years and this is my first comment. You are very informative and I think all of us appreciate your thorough descriptions of the repairs. We love our Toyotas and we love watching you :-)
Thank you, mine is 21 years old and 160K miles. No leak yet but when it does, I now know how easy the fix is, thank you Peter!
I found this video to be extremely useful in diagnosing my leak. The removal process however was not the same. I have an '05 Toyota tundra SR5. The 14 mm bolt being removed at 3:29 in the video is one of four that hold the AC compressor mounted to a bracket. The removal of the bracket shown at 4:16 does NOT expose the nut shown at 4:28. In order to expose this nut, the AC compressor bolts must be taken out, the compressor moved but not disconnected or removed, and the mounting bracket unbolted and removed to expose this nut. The vehicle shown as a Sequoia and as I mentioned I have a Tundra. Hope this is helpful to anyone trying to DIY this repair. I had to find it out the hard way.
Made a video covering this on my channel
Does motor oil or coolant flow through the figure 8 oring
@@markfava80 It's engine oil flowing through there. It's the gasket for the adapter that connects the oil filter housing to the engine block.
Great video.
A few people were asking about torque specs for those bolts.
Per the Hayes manual torque spec for all 3 bolts is 168 in/lbs ( 14 ft/lbs)
Hope that helps everyone
Does this certainly apply to the v8 engine? I also saw the same torque specs in the Haynes and Chilton manual, but they both refer to the 4.0L V6 engine while they have no specs for the V8.🤷♂️ (I believe they put the specs in the wrong section. None of the V6 engines have an oil filter bracket assembly.)
Peter, your videos are so useful and the cadence of the descriptions are very satisfying.
I had this very same issue and had the same failed figure 8 o-ring.
You are saving us DIY mechanics $$$ and extending the lives of our beloved Toyotas. Thank you for these videos.
Thanks again for the great video. I just did this job and learned a few lessons for the beginner doing it on the driveway: It is best to loosen the coolant hoses first while the adapter is still bolted on. I was not able to swap the gasket with the coolant hoses still attached, so I had to mount the adapter back on to remove the hoses, because they were stuck pretty tight and I needed some leverage to get them off. Also, have extra OEM hose clamps in case one breaks (happened in my case). As a side note, I learned that screw type hose clamps are not recommended, as they will loosen over time. The OEM gasket seemed to fit better than the Mahle, which I had as a backup. Lastly, be mindful how to clean surfaces and gasket area. Break cleaner apparently attacks plastic, rubber and paint, so a milder degreaser would be better. The job took me 3 hours total, and I think I would be able to do it in less than 1 hour the second time around (hopefully not needed for a while :-) ).
Thank you! Going to be doing this job myself also after the valve gaskets and tube seals.
The guy you want working on your car is this guy. Love your passion
❤❤❤ do for the video I wish everybody was there this clear and concise when they made these kind of videos I have to do this same job tomorrow because it's leaking oil from the exact bolt that you said in your video
There is another round seal on the back of the oil cooler that leaked on mine. I replaced it a couple years ago, now this one is leaking. Thanks for the video.
Do u know if its motor oil or coolant that flows the the figure 8 oring
Peter, thanks so much for the informative video. I replaced the o ring on the oil filter housing..... no luck on oil leak. Going to try this and see if it fixes this leak!
I have the same sequoia with a leak, and this gives me hope that it’s a small DIY fix.
Now try that same job on a Land Cruiser. Total PIA, rack and pinion and frame provide little space to work. Taking this housing on/off was the most difficult part for me when replacing my steering rack. Sequoia’s apparently make this job a breeze.
I've got to do the same on my 98' LC, after looking at it for a while, I figured it would be a lot more complicated then this. Any tips, tricks, or special tools you found?
Wish I lived near this master mechanic
Thanks for making the extra effort so that we may see the details of the work.
I always enjoy and learn something from your videos. Thank you!
Welcome back my friend ☺️👍👍
Hi friend 👋 thanks so much for saving the bumper repair video. I know you like to tinker and the joy of you being able to do one of a kind things like that needs to be captured like the quality time for us the viewer and yourself. Take care ptr.
Peter, I sure do appreciate your effort in giving us a view!
Best Toyota man ever.
Love your videos!!! I can't get mine off of my 2001 Tundra as the ac compressor blocks one bolt. Worked on it for a few hours coming back and looking at your video and instructions many times. That top bolt is UNDER the ac compressor. Tried loosening the ac comp bolt and could barely see the bolt head under it with a light and mirror. Do you know if I have to remove the ac comp on Tundra 4.7? I thought that they were the same, but it seems that this arrangement is different. Please keep doing these fabulous videos!!!
Did you get it off? I'm is the same. A/c compresser in the way
@@brownfunny1 Yes. I had to take the A/C compressor bolts out and gently pry the compressor out of the way in order to access that one bolt that was behind the compressor bracket. What an insane idea of mounting the oil filter adapter. I got some hose clamp things to pinch off the radiator cooling hoses, so that I could totally remove the adapter and get that old crumbly o-ring out of it. It worked!!!
Also in order to get the compressor bolts out and loose enough to move it, I had to remove the serpentine belt.
@@diablo24guitar Im in the same boat. gunked motor super clean. it appears to be coming from the same spot. It was running down on top of the oil pan and a slow drip off the drain plug. I had zero oil leaks that i knew of. Changed timiming belt and water pump and radiator two months agoafter my kids blew water pump on parkway. Thought I got away with the repair and started seeing oil in driveway. after a few weeks of searching I believe this is the issue NOT a warped head. Thanks for the advice with ac pump
Yep, same issue, what is he working on , the v6? Crap!
Blessings, my tundra has the same problem... Thanks for teaching us.
Nice detailed video. I agree if you take it apart, clean it up before you put t back together. Cheers
Great video! I love my 2uz
What is the housing part number? I cracked my oil sensor threads on the housing.
I remember the vague leak at the bolt. I had a feeling it was oil filter adapter. I remember my Mustang had the same issue.
Really love your videos. This one is just right on time for me. My 2008 Lexus GX470 is leaking engine oil from oil filter. I suspect is this seal need to be replaced. Thank you!
What are the torque specs for those two bolts and the nut?
Keep up the good work 👍👍
Love your attitude. Made me smile
Awesome video!
But plz always use Toyota oil filter! they are better than most aftermarket filter
Can find good deals online for oem filters
Where the figure 8 oring mounts to engine does coolant go thru those ports or motor oil
Would this gasket leaking get oil on the ac compressor because i have the same exact leak from the bolt
Thank you thank you thank you...mine was a little different...I had to removed the ac compressor. Well unbolt it to get to the rest of the housing. Thank you!
Hi. Do you removed the compressor? I have problem. Mine is tundra 2005.
@Abnel Cruz I unbolted it without disconnecting the refrigerant lines. Ans suspended it with ratchet straps while working on it
Another job well done Peter
Hi Peter, thank you for the video. What brand are those flashlights and what is the part number? Thank You.
Hi Peter, quick question, do we have to drain the oil completely before we replace the gaskets?
Thank you, great video. I believe I have the same problem on my 03 4Runner and will try to replace the figure 8 gasket without taking the whole assembly off. BTW, I saw in another video that there is one more gasket between the oil cooler piece (the round piece with the hoses connected to it) and the main body of the assembly. That gasket has a diameter similar to the oil filter. Has anyone had issues with that?
I know this is an older video but is this the same filter bracket as on a 2006 4Runner with the 4.7 V8? I cracked the housing when I replaced my oil pressure switch
It took me an hour of looking since I saw the 06 video, and I was wondering the same thing.
I did the same on my 2005 4runner. Did you replace the housing? Do you know the part number?
I have a 2001 tundra with an oil leak, would this be around the same spot on mine?
thank you for all value information please could you which kind of torch you used
Petr, What are you giving us for Christmas this year?
I have this same leak. Started 2 weeks after an oil change and would only show up when the engine heated up (and made the oil thin). I did the repair and it seemed fixed...until it heated up and started to leak, somewhat worse than before. I don't think I mis-seated the gasket, but might not have torqued down the bolts correctly. Going to try again with a new $2 gasket. Should I also add some RTV?
No RTV just make sure same size seated well and there’s another big circular gasket that comes before this one.
Is it possible for coolant to leak from there since it goes through those lines? have a similar leak on my 2003 GX470 but it looks like coolant to me
No through the figure 8 gasket, that is oil only
I have the same issue/thought. I have coolant that looks like it’s coming from there. Did you ever find out what it was?
@@jordanl5177 it was the water pump
2uz fe where it located high oil pressure relief valve ?
Do you know the part number? Thanks for the video!
That serpentine belt looks like it needs replacing too.
Have you done the seals for a 5.7L 3UR-FE engine? I believe I have a leak at the filter housing and it seems to be coming out through a bolt. Let me know if you had to drain the oil and coolant for this to replace the seals.
Seen other videos they just clamp the hoses to the coolant before the job. Oil drain is needed since you’re replacing filter, catch in a clean bucket and drop it back in
That's more of a Ford and Dodge thing. Actually any engine that has an external oil filter housing bracket. On Ford 5.4 and 4.6, you have the two oil passages right next to the water inlet. Oil, being higher pressure than coolant, enters the cooling system and causes puking at the relief cap. At least coolant doesn't go in the oil. Still way too common. A gasket with impregnated silicone o rings is not enough. Lasts about 7 years tops.
I cannot see the top nut...same motor in a bouble cab tundra....it looks like it's under the ac compressor. Any confirmation from anyone with the same setup?
look up a few replies.
It is very difficult to remove this module on lx470.
Mines at 230000 and having to do the same repair
Great video!
thank you.
Great video
This happened to my GX after the last oil change.
04 with 249900 miles.
Its slightly different on the GX, but the process is the same. Thank you, im back to no leaks.
was it oil or coolant? I have a very similar leak from the same spot on my GX but it looks like coolant. I am worried its the water pump then I see this video and wonder if its an issue like this
But my ac compressor is covered in oil
When you can watch the oil dripping out, that is when you HAVE to fix the leak. A tiny oil seep which never reaches the ground, you can generally ignore unless the oily dirt under there bothers you.
What is the part number?
Caustic oil additives...
Tq Sir
👍👍
Peter is as polished or polish.🐛
Just replace my’s 07 sequoia