You rock! Thanks to your step by step video I've decided to tackle this project myself. I figured it will save me about $500 in labor cost. It's a bit above my skill set, but we get better by doing.
Thanks for sharing. The intake manifold is being replaced on my truck this week and I wanted to see what the mechanic is going to have to do. Very interesting and a lot to keep track of.
Thank you so much, man. I'm no mechanic by any means but I can turn a wrench pretty good, and this video allowed me to save like a thousand dollars by changing manifold myself. Truck sounds like it's brand new, never heard it run so good! Thank you so much!!!
Thanks for the video, second time to replace mine, luckily the first was under the extended warranty. Seems they Crack rather regularly. Appreciate the great comprehensive video without having to skip through the actual unbolting parts of a super long vid
Outstanding job! Not a easy task. I had mine done with new plugs a few years ago. Had to check out your video to see why one plug was miss firing. Put a few bottles of techron through it to fix the problem.
Ugh! I also have a known coolant leak at the head gasket but other than that a bigger leak has now occurred. It looks like that tube that runs on top of the engine block, BELOW the air intake manifold. Ford has absolutely no air intake manifolds in the country and they are back ordered. I unfortunately can't wait. UGH, gonna swallow this and install a........Dorman:(( My truck is a 2002 Ford F-250 5.4L 2V CCLB 4WD. I also have to fix plug #7 on the driver side with the Cal-Van insert kit. Great Video though!!!
Loved how you went step by step with it. I only came to see where two vacuum hoses went but I definitely should've came here first to see where everything was at first to save a bit of time. I also installed the Dorman intake manifold but I took out the old gaskets because I saw the new part had gaskets already installed. I just wanted to make sure you did the same or if I need to go back to install the old ones
But even though it has 240,000 miles still drives great but not this leak why the hell did they make it plastic and easy to Crack at the coolant crossover
You are doing a great job & everything, but I don't use plastic intake manifolds. My 1999 F150 4.6 had 214,000 on it when it had the intake manifold done. I have seen to many with plastic fail. The heat kills them.
The Dorman instruction sheet with the one for my 2007 5.4L 2V said to torque 18 lb inches initially, then 18 lb feet, which concurs with the Ford factory service manual.
I’ve seen two mechanics over Torque these manifolds and crack them. This is why I emphasize reading the directions on torquing them to the specification listed.
@@robfaith9999 that's why I was surprised your instructions said to bring it up to 25 lb ft. I felt like I was already pushing the envelope at 18 lb feet. The bushing should prevent any stress being imparted to the plastic housing. But the 18 pound feet seem to be about all the aluminum threads we're going to be able to withstand.
I did everything as shown in the video, and put everything back the same way, but when I turned on the truck it didn't want to start. What do you think could be happening that it doesn't start?
Yes. These engines are notorious for liquid getting in the holes and causing misfires. After it rains here I get Atleast a couple misfiring and cleaning the holes out usually gets rid of the misfires.
Doing mine well trying to the second 5o last bolt on the drivers side was stripped so gotta go to Lowes to get a removal tool for that but my f150 5.4 triton is a pain in my ass shit my entire truck is a pain already put more then 5,500 in it for other repairs not including a set and a half for tires
Thanks for taking the time to post this. I am waiting on a replacement manifold (NOT Dorman per bad reviews) and a new water pump, both original with 200K this month to attempt this job. I noticed you mentioned possibly replacing hoses as needed, do you recommend replacing any of the hoses or sensors that are only fully accessible once the old manifold is removed? I am also thinking of replacing spark plugs and at least the #4 and #8 coil packs as they are horrible to get access to normally, ideally all eight but budget tight. Any other thoughts would be appreciated.
Do you have experience with the 4.6 2 valve V8 in the 2008 Ford Econoline E250? It seems to only have a cylinder temperature head sensor and not a coolant temperature sensor on that header pipe like yours. My temperature guage is not working so I am wondering if that is why. I was given conflicting responses, some say there should not be a coolant temperature sensor and others say there should. Please help. Thank you.
Will a leaking intake manifold cause a misfire ? I have a 2003 ford f150 5.4 2v and I have coolant missing and recent bought a block test kit and preform the test and is come out positive therefore combustion gases are present in the coolant system but I can’t determine if it’s a head gasket or a leaking intake manifold? I’m imagining it’s a HG though because when I was preforming the test I took the coolant reservoir cap off and the coolant level went up immediately and started overflowing out of the tank. And BTW I have a P0304 code for misfire on cylinder 4. I have replaced the spark plug and coil over and still have the misfire. Any suggestions or help?
It is possible coolant can get into the intake from a leak but not very common but combustion leak testing positive is definitely a head gasket. The intake leaking coolant into the cylinders is more likely a vacuum not pressure. You most likely have a blown head gasket.
@@robfaith9999 Do you think the miss fire is from the coolant getting in the cylinder and wetting the spark plug? If I remove the spark plug after the truck setting for a couple hours and I see coolant inside its a 100% blown head gasket?
@@robfaith9999 okay I think I’m starting to understand the problem more. So my trucks symptoms are 1) Misfire Cylinder #4 P0304 2) Coolant level going down slowly 3) Rough idle(motor shaking) after start up for about 3-5mins Once the truck warms up it runs smooth no motor shake. The reason I’m having these symptoms is a possible small leak on the head gasket. To be specific between the coolant jacket and the cylinder. When the truck sits the coolant leaks into the cylinder thru the head gasket. When I start the truck I get a rough idle because the coolant interferes with spark plug which causes the misfire. When the piston is on the up stroke it’s pushes exhaust gases into the coolant system and when the piston is on its down stroke it pulls in coolant because the piston creates a vacuum. The reason the truck runs smooth after it warms up its simply the metals expanding which basically seals the leak and when the truck cools down the leak continues. Thanks for the help!
The port design is different and therefore Dorman uses their own gasket. Instead of the hard plastic gasket with silicone rubber seal built in, Dormans design uses silicone rubber prong type seals that pop into the bottom of the manifold. The crossover mounts the same way.
Buenas noches por favor tengo una lobo año 2007 y tiene mucha succión hacia los tapa válvulas me dicen que puede estar perforado ? Me podrías ayudar gracias
How is the manifold holding up? Heard the Dorman brand is bad and the other ebay versions are just the same. So this is a yearly or once every two years job to do since it will always crack at that weak point. Currently looking at modifying a 4.6 Elderbrock (Cast Aluminum) manifold to fit the 5.4. There's a video here on UA-cam on how to do it. My only concern is the throttle body flange will need a custom adapter made. No more PI or Non PI searching in Junkyards too....God help me.
Did you not put the insulating panels back in under the intake openings? Are they really necessary? What is there claimed purpose? I'm in a 04 F150 Lariat now 4 x 4 5.4. Thanks
Pretty sure they are to insulate from heat and noise. They were completely destroyed so I didn’t put them back in. It’s been fine so it was ok without it.
@@robfaith9999 yea. These are destroyed to. Brittle as dry bread. Lol. I had just decided to cut the remnants left off. I broke the new cylinder temp sensor off in the head. Gotta it out though in 10 minutes . To much I think. Broke off at the threads. Drove a flathead in it and turned it out. Whew. Thank ya Lord Had to order another one be in tomorrow. Thanks man I got some stove insulation I might cut off a couple sections and slide them in there.
Video doesn't show the actual removal & replacement of intake manifold...but shows everything else apparently. One frame show old intake in place...next frame shows new one in place. My 2003 E-250 is in the shop for this. Too complicated for me although last week I cleaned throttle body & idle air control valve. But that wasn't the real issue.
At 21:15 the manifold is removed, physically shown pulling the manifold from the engine. All steps are included. You obviously did not watch the video all the way through.
Another quick question why didn’t you do compression test on each cylinder to confirm that was only place it was leaking? Seriously I need advice lol I’ve got new metal intake on it’s way because it was leaking in same place as yours.
I have a question..I bought the same manifold. It came with the gaskets built into it and unlike the one I pulled out of the truck wich had a seperat carrier gasket between the head and manifold.. did you use a carrier gasket or just stick with the ones on the manifold?
Those gaskets are made for that specific manifold design. I would use what came with the kit you bought, the manifold design is different from the factory one which means the factory gaskets won’t work. There should have been a plastic bag with a paper that had install torque and directions because the factory torque is also different from that.
There is a heater hose on that side that has a T to supply a rear heater core. Some models don’t have that. There is also a PCV heater that is on the passenger side also. Connected at the base of the throttle body intake adapter. Hope that helps.
Does anyone know what was bolted into the top of the block? there was a wire that lead to a harness to the back left. My wire is broken but I have not Idea what it's for so I cant look up the part.
Just curious why did you spend a few hundred dollars on a whole new intake manifold if it was just bad gaskets? Serious question because I’m about to replace my gaskets but I’ll do manifold if I have to
The intake has a sound pad that covers the galley area in the center lower part of the intake. That helps quiet sound. Ford had that on there and I just swapped it over to the new manifold.
You rock! Thanks to your step by step video I've decided to tackle this project myself. I figured it will save me about $500 in labor cost. It's a bit above my skill set, but we get better by doing.
How did it go? I'm about to do this. Not a mechanic but very handy.
Outstanding instructions, one of the best step by step automotive videos I’ve seen 👍
Thank you
Thanks for sharing. The intake manifold is being replaced on my truck this week and I wanted to see what the mechanic is going to have to do. Very interesting and a lot to keep track of.
Thank you so much, man.
I'm no mechanic by any means but I can turn a wrench pretty good, and this video allowed me to save like a thousand dollars by changing manifold myself.
Truck sounds like it's brand new, never heard it run so good! Thank you so much!!!
I'm about to tackle this
Thanks for the video, second time to replace mine, luckily the first was under the extended warranty. Seems they Crack rather regularly. Appreciate the great comprehensive video without having to skip through the actual unbolting parts of a super long vid
Outstanding job! Not a easy task. I had mine done with new plugs a few years ago. Had to check out your video to see why one plug was miss firing. Put a few bottles of techron through it to fix the problem.
Awesome video! Great help and very detailed! Saved me loads of time taking way more off then needed! A++ Video!
Thanks for the reply! Your video was very helpful and the best of the ones I have found!
Ugh! I also have a known coolant leak at the head gasket but other than that a bigger leak has now occurred. It looks like that tube that runs on top of the engine block, BELOW the air intake manifold. Ford has absolutely no air intake manifolds in the country and they are back ordered. I unfortunately can't wait. UGH, gonna swallow this and install a........Dorman:(( My truck is a 2002 Ford F-250 5.4L 2V CCLB 4WD. I also have to fix plug #7 on the driver side with the Cal-Van insert kit. Great Video though!!!
How did it go??
Loved how you went step by step with it. I only came to see where two vacuum hoses went but I definitely should've came here first to see where everything was at first to save a bit of time. I also installed the Dorman intake manifold but I took out the old gaskets because I saw the new part had gaskets already installed. I just wanted to make sure you did the same or if I need to go back to install the old ones
Definitely installed the new gaskets. The Forman manifold has a different gasket design and works better.
thank you. your the best this is mint keep em coming
for my next trick. i shall reinact this procedure tomorrow. thanks for the video
This is the best video .step by step . Thank you .
First class installation and video. Very much appreciated. Subscribing is the least I can do!
Thank you for the great video! This helped me out a lot. I am doing the same exact truck, 03 exp 5.4. Almost got it out.
You’re welcome. I hope it was all the information you needed.
But even though it has 240,000 miles still drives great but not this leak why the hell did they make it plastic and easy to Crack at the coolant crossover
You are doing a great job & everything, but I don't use plastic intake manifolds. My 1999 F150 4.6 had 214,000 on it when it had the intake manifold done. I have seen to many with plastic fail. The heat kills them.
Have not had great luck with the Dorman manifolds.I disconnect the battery when I do this job too.
Thank you sir. Not all heros wear capes!
The Dorman instruction sheet with the one for my 2007 5.4L 2V said to torque 18 lb inches initially, then 18 lb feet, which concurs with the Ford factory service manual.
I’ve seen two mechanics over Torque these manifolds and crack them. This is why I emphasize reading the directions on torquing them to the specification listed.
@@robfaith9999 that's why I was surprised your instructions said to bring it up to 25 lb ft. I felt like I was already pushing the envelope at 18 lb feet. The bushing should prevent any stress being imparted to the plastic housing. But the 18 pound feet seem to be about all the aluminum threads we're going to be able to withstand.
I’d have to look it up again to make sure but pretty sure I used the Dorman sheet with the directions.
@@robfaith9999 I figured it out, the instructions say 25 Nm (18-ft lbs)
I did everything as shown in the video, and put everything back the same way, but when I turned on the truck it didn't want to start. What do you think could be happening that it doesn't start?
Retrace all of your steps. Maybe something is unplugged
I'm sure everything is plugged in.
I have liquid in the spark plug hole cylinder 1 misfire code.coukd this be the problem?
Yes. These engines are notorious for liquid getting in the holes and causing misfires. After it rains here I get Atleast a couple misfiring and cleaning the holes out usually gets rid of the misfires.
yes .the plastic wall holding gasket on in crossover pipe breaks and coolant leaks all way back to spark plug wells and fills them up
Doing mine well trying to the second 5o last bolt on the drivers side was stripped so gotta go to Lowes to get a removal tool for that but my f150 5.4 triton is a pain in my ass shit my entire truck is a pain already put more then 5,500 in it for other repairs not including a set and a half for tires
I really miss working on cars where I recognize everything.
Same
Thanks for taking the time to post this. I am waiting on a replacement manifold (NOT Dorman per bad reviews) and a new water pump, both original with 200K this month to attempt this job. I noticed you mentioned possibly replacing hoses as needed, do you recommend replacing any of the hoses or sensors that are only fully accessible once the old manifold is removed? I am also thinking of replacing spark plugs and at least the #4 and #8 coil packs as they are horrible to get access to normally, ideally all eight but budget tight. Any other thoughts would be appreciated.
The heater hoses would be easy to change at that time and the pcv hose assembly.
Do you have experience with the 4.6 2 valve V8 in the 2008 Ford Econoline E250? It seems to only have a cylinder temperature head sensor and not a coolant temperature sensor on that header pipe like yours. My temperature guage is not working so I am wondering if that is why. I was given conflicting responses, some say there should not be a coolant temperature sensor and others say there should. Please help. Thank you.
Thanks for sharing how many hour takes this job?
Takes between 3 and 4 hours
You didn’t connect the red vacuum line on driver’s side in the video. Would it connect to the fuel pressure regulator?
I believe it is the fuel pressure regulator
Is it a nice video and very good explication 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Will a leaking intake manifold cause a misfire ? I have a 2003 ford f150 5.4 2v and I have coolant missing and recent bought a block test kit and preform the test and is come out positive therefore combustion gases are present in the coolant system but I can’t determine if it’s a head gasket or a leaking intake manifold? I’m imagining it’s a HG though because when I was preforming the test I took the coolant reservoir cap off and the coolant level went up immediately and started overflowing out of the tank. And BTW I have a P0304 code for misfire on cylinder 4. I have replaced the spark plug and coil over and still have the misfire. Any suggestions or help?
It is possible coolant can get into the intake from a leak but not very common but combustion leak testing positive is definitely a head gasket. The intake leaking coolant into the cylinders is more likely a vacuum not pressure. You most likely have a blown head gasket.
@@robfaith9999 Do you think the miss fire is from the coolant getting in the cylinder and wetting the spark plug? If I remove the spark plug after the truck setting for a couple hours and I see coolant inside its a 100% blown head gasket?
I think your block test confirmed the head gasket leak. If you pull the plug and it’s wet, you have confirmed that you have coolant in a cylinder.
@@robfaith9999 okay I think I’m starting to understand the problem more. So my trucks symptoms are
1) Misfire Cylinder #4 P0304
2) Coolant level going down slowly
3) Rough idle(motor shaking) after start up for about 3-5mins
Once the truck warms up it runs smooth no motor shake. The reason I’m having these symptoms is a possible small leak on the head gasket. To be specific between the coolant jacket and the cylinder. When the truck sits the coolant leaks into the cylinder thru the head gasket. When I start the truck I get a rough idle because the coolant interferes with spark plug which causes the misfire. When the piston is on the up stroke it’s pushes exhaust gases into the coolant system and when the piston is on its down stroke it pulls in coolant because the piston creates a vacuum. The reason the truck runs smooth after it warms up its simply the metals expanding which basically seals the leak and when the truck cools down the leak continues. Thanks for the help!
In what years did they use the aluminum intake for the 10th generation f150
Why you do not change heater tube ,knock sensor and Cylinder head temperature sensor ?
They never go bad. I have had several of these trucks and never had a problem with them.
Does the doorman have the same design as the oem? Does the crossover also bolt on from the bottom?
The port design is different and therefore Dorman uses their own gasket. Instead of the hard plastic gasket with silicone rubber seal built in, Dormans design uses silicone rubber prong type seals that pop into the bottom of the manifold. The crossover mounts the same way.
What happens if when removing the intake manifold, antifreeze falls into the intake port?
Try to dry it out
Buenas noches por favor tengo una lobo año 2007 y tiene mucha succión hacia los tapa válvulas me dicen que puede estar perforado ? Me podrías ayudar gracias
How is the manifold holding up? Heard the Dorman brand is bad and the other ebay versions are just the same. So this is a yearly or once every two years job to do since it will always crack at that weak point. Currently looking at modifying a 4.6 Elderbrock (Cast Aluminum) manifold to fit the 5.4. There's a video here on UA-cam on how to do it. My only concern is the throttle body flange will need a custom adapter made. No more PI or Non PI searching in Junkyards too....God help me.
Works pretty well
Did you not put the insulating panels back in under the intake openings? Are they really necessary? What is there claimed purpose? I'm in a 04 F150 Lariat now 4 x 4 5.4. Thanks
Pretty sure they are to insulate from heat and noise. They were completely destroyed so I didn’t put them back in. It’s been fine so it was ok without it.
@@robfaith9999 yea. These are destroyed to. Brittle as dry bread. Lol. I had just decided to cut the remnants left off.
I broke the new cylinder temp sensor off in the head. Gotta it out though in 10 minutes . To much I think. Broke off at the threads. Drove a flathead in it and turned it out. Whew. Thank ya Lord
Had to order another one be in tomorrow. Thanks man
I got some stove insulation I might cut off a couple sections and slide them in there.
@@robfaith9999 I'd send you pictures but I don't know how. Lol
Video doesn't show the actual removal & replacement of intake manifold...but shows everything else apparently. One frame show old intake in place...next frame shows new one in place. My 2003 E-250 is in the shop for this. Too complicated for me although last week I cleaned throttle body & idle air control valve. But that wasn't the real issue.
At 21:15 the manifold is removed, physically shown pulling the manifold from the engine. All steps are included. You obviously did not watch the video all the way through.
isn't this a 3V engine? Is it an F-150 or F-250?
This one is an earlier version not the 3 valve and it’s in an expedition
Tighten intake bolt for 4.3 Ford expedition 2003
Another quick question why didn’t you do compression test on each cylinder to confirm that was only place it was leaking? Seriously I need advice lol I’ve got new metal intake on it’s way because it was leaking in same place as yours.
No need to perform compression when vehicle wasn’t misfiring.
I have a question..I bought the same manifold. It came with the gaskets built into it and unlike the one I pulled out of the truck wich had a seperat carrier gasket between the head and manifold.. did you use a carrier gasket or just stick with the ones on the manifold?
Those gaskets are made for that specific manifold design. I would use what came with the kit you bought, the manifold design is different from the factory one which means the factory gaskets won’t work. There should have been a plastic bag with a paper that had install torque and directions because the factory torque is also different from that.
Can you tell me what hoses was connected to the t on the passenger side of throtte body
There is a heater hose on that side that has a T to supply a rear heater core. Some models don’t have that. There is also a PCV heater that is on the passenger side also. Connected at the base of the throttle body intake adapter. Hope that helps.
Thank you good video 👍👍👍
Does anyone know what was bolted into the top of the block? there was a wire that lead to a harness to the back left. My wire is broken but I have not Idea what it's for so I cant look up the part.
Is it the ground wire
@@robfaith9999 it was the knock sensor!
That was my second idea
Just curious why did you spend a few hundred dollars on a whole new intake manifold if it was just bad gaskets? Serious question because I’m about to replace my gaskets but I’ll do manifold if I have to
Intake is made of plastic, plastic warps and becomes soft and brittle over time. Not going to take that chance
@@robfaith9999 that makes sense, is there a better quality intake you’d recommend for replacement like maybe a metal intake instead of plastic?
My 2000 f250 was broken in the same place so now I have to replace the intake itself
How did it go? My turn to do this
@@shanelaughter3909 it wa actually pretty easy thanks to UA-cam. Just make sure you go ahead and change the plugs while you have everything opened up
@@aliveandkicking17 did you use the Dorman intake?
@@shanelaughter3909 wasn’t that bad! It’s just when you’re doing that on a f250 it’s hard to stay under the hood because it it’s up so high
34:56 the red pvc boot where does it go?
I believe it goes to the EVAP solenoid valve
How is the Dorman manifold?
It works good. I have had no problems with it.
I put one in my 2000 F-150. It works great but you can hear the air going through it from inside of vehicle. It’s very annoying. OEM is best.
The intake has a sound pad that covers the galley area in the center lower part of the intake. That helps quiet sound. Ford had that on there and I just swapped it over to the new manifold.
I really need the part number asap
What’s the part number for the intake ?
Look it up in your local parts catalog or go to Dorman products and search it for your model
@@robfaith9999 thanks
Can not believe you did not replace the heater hose pipe while you had intake off......
There was nothing wrong with it. Hose was replaced before
Guess you forgot to show all the crap from the knock sensors and how the harness goes behind it and the nightmare of it all
What torque for the throttle body
Porque desarmar todo
Porque no hay de otra manera,como reemplazarlo sin desarmar todo.
We are you baya you gasket