Your video was helpful. Thanks The shop has put 3 Dorman intakes on my 05 F250. They last 6 months or so and then it is P1071 and P1074 lean condition. Have confirmed it is vacuum leak w homemade smoke tester. I got a used ford manifold and it looks way better. got the used one because I needed factory hardware for the intake runner that Ford no longer sells and the Dorman hardware is different. Had to remove and reinstall the runner blades so I could give the intake a good cleaning. Waiting on parts to come in. I bet dealing w those connectors under the manifold that you can not see are going to be the most fun.
Hi, from your experience, what can cause the engine to shake only after warming up? The shaking seems to always start after I hear a noise, similar to the sound hot metal would make if water was poured on it, or many like a little metal hamar hitting a metal bell. Then next time, after it cools down, it doesn't shake until it warms up again. Steam is coming out of the exhaust pipe, I thought it was a leaking head gasket but I tried a few of the best head gasket sealers and it didn't seem to help. Do you think maybe the upper intake is leaking coolant into the combustion chamber? Maybe a bad valve? I really appreciate you sharing your experience with us.
Thanks for the removal video Tips on putting it back? The vacuum port on the rear bottom left is the one giving me the most trouble on my '07 Expedition.
You mention the cylinder head temp sensor wire harness. does this harness unplug on both ends? You tap a black female plug in the video, the plug end on my CHT is white, so is this just a short pigtail that can be replaced? I'm having the exact issue with my truck, and was wondering if I could replace that wire without removing the intake manifold. I believe if it plugs on each end that I can. Thanks for your time.
@@gidderman you seriously saved me a headache and a half on this sensor BS. I ordered a Motorcraft Sensor for coolant temp. The fkn thing is plastic and i have searched and searched and no luck. So searching vids to find anything. No luck until i came here. Tag your video headline "p0119" and "Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor aka "ECT". U will get alot of views im sure. 👍🏻 I would buy u a bier if u were in SoCal.
The Control motor on the back of the intake with the 2 tie bars attached is the CMCV Valve. This (C)harge (M)otion (C)ontrol (V)alve actuator attaches with the tie-bars to the the actual Valves in the intake runners attached at the end of the manifold where it meets the cylinder head. The purpose of this system is very similar to Honda's VTEC system where it increases low end torque by promoting swirl in the combustion chamber by blocking off one of the intake valves and increasing air velocity on the other one, thus creating better swirl effect in the combustion charge at low rpms. When the engine is revved up under heavier load (more throttle) the CMCV opens the butterfies in the intake by moving the tie-bars and thus allows both intake valves to breath giving better airflow for high rpm/high load situation.
Took off way too much. battery cable, alternator, throttle body, vacuum sensor with the 2 (#8 head) bolts fuel line, (not the rail) 8 (#10 head) bolts of the intake. Carefully lift intake slide forward so you can fish your hand under it to the back to unplug 2 knock sensors, the imrc control and a vacuum line at the bottom rear of air box. Watch the wires they may be wrapped around the arms of the imrc.
@lostvisitor Where does the vacuum line on the rear of the intake connect? The one on the passenger side, not the brake booster. Does that line connect to the fuel pulse damper?
@@sambressi7425 Stick a probe in the passenger side vacuum connector, it should not go through. It is not used. be Sure it is pugged. No clue why it is there. Everything is run off the driver side. be sure not to bind up the linkage on the back. Truck will not run well. Worst engine ford ever made.
Thank you, helped a lot. 07 expedition , the wire retaining nuts at the back , is size 10mm.
Your video was helpful. Thanks The shop has put 3 Dorman intakes on my 05 F250. They last 6 months or so and then it is P1071 and P1074 lean condition. Have confirmed it is vacuum leak w homemade smoke tester. I got a used ford manifold and it looks way better.
got the used one because I needed factory hardware for the intake runner that Ford no longer sells and the Dorman hardware is different. Had to remove and reinstall the runner blades so I could give the intake a good cleaning. Waiting on parts to come in. I bet dealing w those connectors under the manifold that you can not see are going to be the most fun.
Hi, from your experience, what can cause the engine to shake only after warming up? The shaking seems to always start after I hear a noise, similar to the sound hot metal would make if water was poured on it, or many like a little metal hamar hitting a metal bell. Then next time, after it cools down, it doesn't shake until it warms up again. Steam is coming out of the exhaust pipe, I thought it was a leaking head gasket but I tried a few of the best head gasket sealers and it didn't seem to help. Do you think maybe the upper intake is leaking coolant into the combustion chamber? Maybe a bad valve? I really appreciate you sharing your experience with us.
Good job , is an excelente explanation. Thanks for this video. I need to do this work in my car.
Thanks for the removal video
Tips on putting it back? The vacuum port on the rear bottom left is the one giving me the most trouble on my '07 Expedition.
Nice video - only - don’t you have to put sensor wires **over the metal bars not under, or they get pinched and do not perform their function.
I didn't drain coolent on the one I'm working on. Moved the alternator forward and had enough room to pull it out.
I was looking at that too. He didn't pull the crossover it would be the only need to drain it. Thanks
Very good info thanks dude
Do you have a diagram of where all those vacuum lines go? I did an engine swap and forgot where all the lines go
You mention the cylinder head temp sensor wire harness. does this harness unplug on both ends? You tap a black female plug in the video, the plug end on my CHT is white, so is this just a short pigtail that can be replaced? I'm having the exact issue with my truck, and was wondering if I could replace that wire without removing the intake manifold. I believe if it plugs on each end that I can. Thanks for your time.
Yes there is a short pigtail that goes from the black connector on the main harness down to the Cylinder Head Temp Sensor.
@@gidderman you seriously saved me a headache and a half on this sensor BS. I ordered a Motorcraft Sensor for coolant temp. The fkn thing is plastic and i have searched and searched and no luck. So searching vids to find anything. No luck until i came here.
Tag your video headline "p0119" and "Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor aka "ECT".
U will get alot of views im sure. 👍🏻
I would buy u a bier if u were in SoCal.
Same here exactly the same sensor
Are the flaps supposed to be closed or open upon removal of intake
What was the reason why you took the intake manifold out?
Doing this now helpful video thank you
I replaced that sensor on my Expedition 5.4 with out removing the intake.Not easy but doable.
Cylinder head temperature sensor ?
Or the Coolant temp sensor?
I have code p0119 and cant find anything on the Coolant temp sensor
Nevermind he just answered my question in lol 6:05
How do u get 8mm nut off back?
Gracias por el video
Removing your gas cap has zero effect on line pressure in your rail. Whoever told you that knows nothing about it.
What is the plug for on the back of intake ?
The Control motor on the back of the intake with the 2 tie bars attached is the CMCV Valve. This (C)harge (M)otion (C)ontrol (V)alve actuator attaches with the tie-bars to the the actual Valves in the intake runners attached at the end of the manifold where it meets the cylinder head. The purpose of this system is very similar to Honda's VTEC system where it increases low end torque by promoting swirl in the combustion chamber by blocking off one of the intake valves and increasing air velocity on the other one, thus creating better swirl effect in the combustion charge at low rpms. When the engine is revved up under heavier load (more throttle) the CMCV opens the butterfies in the intake by moving the tie-bars and thus allows both intake valves to breath giving better airflow for high rpm/high load situation.
Ball of wax
OMG pure chaos, no sequence
Took off way too much. battery cable, alternator, throttle body, vacuum sensor with the 2 (#8 head) bolts fuel line, (not the rail) 8 (#10 head) bolts of the intake. Carefully lift intake slide forward so you can fish your hand under it to the back to unplug 2 knock sensors, the imrc control and a vacuum line at the bottom rear of air box. Watch the wires they may be wrapped around the arms of the imrc.
@lostvisitor Where does the vacuum line on the rear of the intake connect? The one on the passenger side, not the brake booster. Does that line connect to the fuel pulse damper?
@@sambressi7425 It is an unused port in most models. Where the driver side splits to several components. What year is yours?
@@lostvisitor 04 XLT 4wd. I thought I took something off of that manifold port but I can't remember lol
@@sambressi7425 Stick a probe in the passenger side vacuum connector, it should not go through. It is not used. be Sure it is pugged. No clue why it is there. Everything is run off the driver side. be sure not to bind up the linkage on the back. Truck will not run well. Worst engine ford ever made.