You mentioned bleeding the brakes and clutch by yourself. I figured that one out a couple of years ago,fish tank airline/bubbler tubing. Walmart sells clear plastic tubing the right size to push on the bleeders and reach from the rear passenger side of my crew cab and reach all the way up to the master cylinder. I push one end on my bleeder and run the other end back into my master cylinder so that it’s submerged in fluid. I’ve also had good luck using just a few feet of the same tubing run into an extra brake fluid jug by the wheel cylinder I’m working on. Running it back to the master cylinder is a little easier for me though since I can see the air and fluid go past me and back to the master cylinder while I’m pumping the brakes. Works awesome and I can stay in the seat till all the air is gone,only have to go back and forth to go to the next wheel.
My dad had an old Ford Cabover from the same era, and it had a cab release at the back of the cab that when released allowed some assist springs to lift the cab about 1/3 the way up, making raising the cab easie,r then when returning it to its locked down position, you had to pull down on the cab to compress the assist springs and engage the locking mechanism.
Love watching you bring these old engines come back to life. I am in my late 60's now and can't do this anymore but it makes me smile to see young people picking up the slack keeping old things running.
@@busterturner8702 Could be a 304 International. The 304, 345, and 392 all had the same block. One of my cousins had a '66 International 1600 truck that had the 304. I later had a Scout II with the 304. Bulletproof engine, but really thirsty.
@@rockymountainjazzfan1822 Yep, I had the same in 1975 International Travelall, great strong motor, could haul anything and climbed thru snow like a tank during winter months with spike tires on. Always started and ran like a champ with just regular service.
I have been waiting a long time for JYD to be working on international trucks. I have a 1972 1110 pickup that I have been working on and finally got it running from your videos!
Hi Kevin. The International CO's were called Loadstars until about 1968 when the name was changed to Cargostar to avoid confusion with the conventional Loadstars. .
Thanks for going so in depth on the carb. A lot of people don't understand fuel injection, so they swap carbs on, but can't really tune those either. lol
In my humble opinion, fuel injection is way simpler than carb. But you really need to pay attention to electrical system, and that's what the majority of people is really afraid of.
Reminds me of my '62 step side. Sat in a neighbor's yard for 45 years. Pulled it to the house, checked the oil, sprayed the cylinders, jumped it from my van and it was running in about an hour. That carb is probably original, and would be a stock replacement even if it isn't. If you have to time a gas IH SV-8, it times off cylinder 8, Not 1. And it uses gears instead of a chain. You can get both of those master cylinders, at about $450 apiece. The clutch slave is cheaper because it was used on light line trucks also, likely under $100. You can get rebuild kits for all of them, or be like me and use heat shrink and ingenuity. As to the engine c.i.d. there are choices, a SV-8 304 or 345, or a LV-8 401, 461, or 478. There's a bossed face behind the generator, I Think, that has the designation. They're great trucks, you'll play hell trying to kill them, if you do try, because they're made for maximum output in all quarters all day long and all night if you can keep up.
Kevin...you have come a long way with your mechanic skills and diagnostic since i first watched you 3 years ago on the abandoned F250....i love your channel and all your excursions....looking forward to many more.
I never tire of Kevin's Revival video's. I think it's because we are watching a man really enjoying what he is doing. Same enthusiasm as in the Possum in the Fiat video, the one that made me discover this channel.
Subscriber from the UK here. Always amazed to see trucks of this size with petrol engines. I guess it just shows how cheap petrol used to be over there!
@Norwindian In the UK In the mid sixties, you could buy four gallons for one pound Sterling. The exchange rate at the time was around two dollars US, to one pound Sterling. So US petrol was effectively half the price of the UK. Plus the fact that wages were much higher in the US.
Dude, that is an understated lovely old truck - great find! A tip on the Hayes-type split-rim, cast-centre wheels: check the torque on the rim clamping bolts. If there’s any jacking between the wheel centre to rim pads around the bolts, it’s worth stripping them down and flattening things so they fit flat and will hold torque. Reason: a friend had a European Fiat truck on similar wheels. One day he had to brake hard and the tyres gripped but the rim clamps didn’t. Both rims on the front axle rotated around the wheel centres, chopped the valve stems off and left him at the roadside with two flat tyres and a really good story 🙂
Good to see old trucks running, it's funny to me,how some of the younger generation is into old stuff, that's great ,my life is almost over, but l to enjoyed old trucks, hope he passes that on ✌️
Kevin I bought a reman holley ( by colt industries) and you are so right. it was 2 barrel similar to the one you have there for a Buick 3.8 even fire motor from the early 1980s. This what was wrong with it. The throttle shaft was twisted just slightly so one plate didn't close. the accelerator pump didn't work and it didn't idle because the metering block was full of white media blasting sand and the base wasn't flat. It had a tag on it and hadn't come out of the box since it left the factory. it came via a local supplier. He took the carb back and couldn't get me another one quickly. So he replaced the acc pump with the correct one took it apart and cleaned a the metering block out and fitted a better suited power valve, straightened the throttle shaft and had the base machined flat at no cost to me. That was a long time ago. Lately i've been fitting new carbs form Edelbrock . You bolt them on, attach the cable, fuel hose, the choke. you start it. It runs and idles. Check the timing, drive it for 10 minutes reset the idle and its done and no come backs for faults so far. I've fitted 5 so far and i'm happy.
Not sure if anyone else had mentioned this but when I open my cab overs, I open both doors. Puts weight up front to help with weight. Hope your back feels better Kevin👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Sorry brother, just now able to watch this. But I'm happy to finally be here. Big reason I started my channel, Quint 1836, is because of you. Rock on man!
That old binder ran pretty damn good. I see you can buy intakes and cams and such for that engine, I assume it is valve float that is really limiting for them. I wonder if you did head work, how much performance you can get. Would the bottom end stand up to a few pounds of boost? Slap a blow through system with a Holley Sniper?I mean I know they are heavy as sin but wouldn't a boosted Travelette dropped with some bags be a cool Power Tour ride.
I have been around these ih engines most my life, I am told they came from the factory with a forged bottom end when they started doing that though I am not sure I know that they were doing it by the 60s though. They should hold up to 14lbs no problem
I had a number of those IHs of that vintage. That engine is most probably a 304, but that is the same block as the 345. Both the 304 and 345 had the same carb, the 2 barrel Holley. Only the 392 had the 4 bbl Holley. The 304 (plus the 345, & 392) is a good engine with stellite valve seats and sodium filled exhaust valves. No timing chains and sprockets on any of these 3 v-8s. They ran gear on gear for driving the single cam shaft. They did have hydraulic lifters and always a high oil pressure. The weak spot was the cam/lever fuel pump. When they failed, they shot oil out of a breather hole straight up on the bottom side of the hood. As to the hydraulic clutch, take it apart to find out what size the bore is. They use the same rubber cups as used in wheel brake cylinders. Usually they need a bit of honing out to get rid of the rust ring where the rubber cup sat for many years. There is only one rubber cup in the slave cylinder, not two. Often the master cylinder does not need rebuilding, but has just drained out the brake oil. Normal DOT 3 or 4 works fine in the clutch cylinders. The clutch pedal sticks "down" when the fluid is low. Its return depends on the return spring on the slave lever (besides the over center spring beneath the dash board). The rather slow cranking speed of these engines is normal. They will start even in real cold temps like -20F. That one probably has a pull knob throttle on the dash board to run a faster idle until it warms up. That column shifter is for the 4 speed tranny. Look carefully at the shift pattern. Some of the trucks with the conventional front end (Load Star) had 5 speed trannys, and the ones I had, had a very unusual shift pattern, but was synchro in all except the first gear.
Worked at a farm supply company in the mid 70's and had several old IH trucks. Overloaded every day with grain, fertilizer, etc. Ran the crap out of them and they just kept on running. They were built to last. With a little work, that truck still has a lot of life left in it.
18:30 If your boiling the fuel in the carburetor, a phenolic or equilivalent spacer is needed. That will keep the carburetor from soaking up the heat of the intake and prevent hard starting when hot. Also on holleys, a viton accelerator pump diaphragm is a must for the ethanol in the fuels now. Mine leaks all the fuel out the bowl and makes hard starting, been meaning to replace it but the truck just sits right now.
Wow those are some beautiful trucks and in amazing condition for sitting out in a field! The cab over is especially in good condition! These are the types of things id love to have in my collection.
18:29 Hm, I knew that fuel would vaporize. I think there's different conditions though. My zero turn(Kohlerr CV750) likes some choke if I start it after it was hot. I assume it vaporized some of the fuel instead of puddling in the carb like that. Probably different designs suffer from different problems (if any, depending on the model). My briggs motors are less prone to that. The 84 dodge pickup we used to have never started hard hot, but fuel liked to drain back so it sure hated starting cold. I had a procedure that worked pretty well, two pumps and to set the choke, crank it, two pumps, usually fired off, if not I'd hold the throttle wide open. I suppose an electric Mr Gasket Autozone fuel pump would've helped in hindsight. This was back before I knew much about that engine or engines in general. My dad was not happy because (and being an aircraft, truck, and car mechanic for 60+ years) he knew it should not be that hard to start, but I guess he wasn't motivated enough to fix it. He kinda got tired of vehicles fighting him after so long. Still an electric fuel pump might've been the easy solution. In hindsight my procedure required some cranking probably because it was an engine driven fuel pump.
I looked these up. They used the 304, 345, 392. I would say it is a 345. I like these trucks. My uncle had one on the farm. I believe it was a 1970 model. He also drove a 1970 International 1110 pickup. According to family legend, he bought both of em at one time to replace the older Ford Grain truck and the old Studebaker pickup. Awesome video. ❤
And also in Germany (Heidelberg Plant). First with the Perkins, and then with the German IH Diesel D- 310 and D-358. I have one with the D-358. runs great!
Aw yis. fresh upload and you've got some truly tired iron to work on! Those big V8s have an amazing burble to 'em too; pretty sure the conventional one you have is the same model as Puddin's Wheelhop Wilma.
I have a 92 f250 with the international 7.3 you did in a previous tow truck revival and I still can't kill that motor. Long as u keep oil in them they run forever and ever.
Im just watching this before work so I'll finish tonight. I had a 67 International grain truck just like the other one. Never had an issue and bought it with 21000 miles. Used as a scrapping truck since I could just dump the stuff. Great vehicle to have even today
Being it's 1964 and a 1600, you probably have a 304 engine. We had a 1966 Loadstar 1600 and it had a 304. Those were really good little engines. Those little 2 barrel Holleys are cold blooded so you gotta give 'em good choke even when it's 90 degrees out. I know you time it off #8 cylinder and aside from an inline fuel filter, there very likely is a small filter behind a cap nut on the fuel pump. If she acts a little lean or the fuel pressure is down, check that filter. We ran ours for years before we discovered that filter and wondered why she ran a little lean. Once we cleaned that filter, she REALLY ran. Good luck.
My brother came home with a rented moving van like that cab over to move our family a province over. That shifter sure is weird though. The one we had had a floor shifter with a 1st "granny" gear.
I learn a lot from your instructional video's. There aren't many people around on YT that give such 'hands-on' advise. It makes me even a bit capable of doing maintenance on my 1974 Ford Mustang. Mostly because of your video's I dare to dive into the mechanics of my car.
Like when I had my battery in the car tested as was not a happy starting diesel and the tech goes "Oooh she not happy. " what was funnier was he was talking to himself lol
Yeah, but it'd be super uncomfortable, noisy, and tiring over longer trips. The Roadkill guys have it figured out with their squarebodies with A/C and overdrive units.
At 11:33, I thought it blew out fire for an instant, there... Turns out it was trans fluid. LMAO. Looked like arterial spray! Love ya, Kevin! Keep it up! -Vic
2:34 If you listen closely you can hear the exact moment he poops a little. In all seriousness I drove one of those for a few years. They aren't meant to be tipped by a single man. Kudos for muscling that thing over.
I haven't seen the whole video but I'm guessing that's probably a 345. Hey remember they used to have commercials back in the day where they would have the 2-ton trucks next to a scout and I think it said something along the lines of they put the big motor from the big truck in the scout. Some guessing it's probably going to be a 345 or 392
Old school carb baby, that's why the air/fuel is where they are, but I have awesome faith that you are going to conquer and move on in your quest for a truck moving under its own power
Ah yes, good ol’ transoline oil. Also this is not the first international engine you’ve worked on. I’ve done some googling and the Ford IDI’s were originally international Diesel engines
I had a ‘76 Ford 6.9 diesel, that thing went 225,000 for me, I sold it to a friend and he got another 200,000 out of it! The body rusted out but that engine was still going.
man you make good revival videos on classic, modern, and rare weird vehicles... It really helps a lot with learning about engines and vehicles and stuff!
Nice old trucks bring back memories. Not surprised about the engine confusion among the community. There’s a famous writer for a car magazine who got the IH 304 mixed up with the AMC 304 even! The SV series V8s are truck engines. Big blocks, low RPM, thirsty and built with low rpm torque in mind, not top end hp. I blew a valve spring as a kid trying to drive a 304 powered Scout like a hot rod. They don’t like much above 4500 rpm. But down low thru the mud they pulled like a Farmall tractor. Think diesel style torque. That’s what they were meant for. Gear driven valve train too! That’s what gave every SV powered vehicle an odd supercharger style whine when pulling hard. It’s part of their character. Sixty year old technology . It’s nice to see them preserved rather than swapped out as long as they’re viable.
The cab reminds of the Bedford TK that was popular in the UK. That cab was bolted down and the only access to the engine was via lift up panels at the rear of the cab. You are lucky your working on a tilt cab, and access to the engine is easy. Cheers, Paul.
Get a package of sandpaper nail boards. Great for cleaning points. Local politicians still give ones with their name on the out to farmers around here.
A cargostar and a loadstar in the thumbnail you know there will be some fun! My father had a cargo star (coe) with a 392 running on propane and a load star with a 345 2 barrel holley and set up to move mobile homes with a giant winch and a really short wheelbase
I’m remember driving one of these when it was new. The column shifter was a challenge when new but after the truck had more kms the gear change was like pin the tail on the donkey. This motor should be a 392 but it’s a lighter duty truck so it might be a 345. I’m not saying it was a fantastic engine but at the time GMC was selling offering a V6 and Chevy’s small block was limited on power. Ford offered a decent truck/motor and so did Dodge but IH had a long reputation of building trucks and the 345/392 was kind of a small/big block. FYI International has made a 4 cylinder that was half of a 304. The distributor app was virtually the same but 4 posts were blocked off. It was actually a very reliable motor. I had a Scout with one.
@33:05 in most rebuild kits it has the brass sleeves fittings to replace the throttle linkage hole's so you don't get the vacuum leak on the side of the carburetor.. truthfully people don't know what they are even in the box for and don't replace
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is this truck a 4-speed or 5-speed on the column? I couldn't see the shift sticker on the dash very well
U graduated in 2015? I did in 2016!!!
I'm looking for a truck just like that red one to make into a motor home for travel!
You mentioned bleeding the brakes and clutch by yourself. I figured that one out a couple of years ago,fish tank airline/bubbler tubing. Walmart sells clear plastic tubing the right size to push on the bleeders and reach from the rear passenger side of my crew cab and reach all the way up to the master cylinder. I push one end on my bleeder and run the other end back into my master cylinder so that it’s submerged in fluid. I’ve also had good luck using just a few feet of the same tubing run into an extra brake fluid jug by the wheel cylinder I’m working on. Running it back to the master cylinder is a little easier for me though since I can see the air and fluid go past me and back to the master cylinder while I’m pumping the brakes. Works awesome and I can stay in the seat till all the air is gone,only have to go back and forth to go to the next wheel.
@@Bobbytrus12 2014 here!!
2:37 tip; leave both doors open when lifting the cab, it helps provide more counterbalance so the cab lifts easier
Beat me to it. Those cabs are like half the weight with doors open.
That’s a brilliant suggestion
Kevin has no time for such things
My dad had an old Ford Cabover from the same era, and it had a cab release at the back of the cab that when released allowed some assist springs to lift the cab about 1/3 the way up, making raising the cab easie,r then when returning it to its locked down position, you had to pull down on the cab to compress the assist springs and engage the locking mechanism.
@@WeChallenge You could've just had your fattest uncle sit in the cab to compress the springs.
I love the optimism of the 90 mph speedometer! Bleeding those vertical mounted clutch and brake masters is always fun.
Brakes? Bleed? Who needs those just use em as is. Tf does that even mean
I did one in my c600 can confirm they suck to bleed
Shut up wes
Brakes? Nooo, you don't need no brakes just stick your feet down and stop like Fred Flintstone! Yabba dabba doo!
Open the doors when you’re tipping a cab over cab. Puts more weight forward and lightens the cab
Look at this guy with the brain 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼😎good idea literally no one knows that.
Ummmm someone said that already
@@recessional5560ummmmm you were a year late when you replied to this
Love watching you bring these old engines come back to life. I am in my late 60's now and can't do this anymore but it makes me smile to see young people picking up the slack keeping old things running.
Best part is you go over the causes and explain why and what needs to be done with it. Awesome, I appreciate that you share with your audience!
Typical Junkyard Digs:
"Let's see if it runs. "
Starts engine.
"Like a champ!"
Engine dies...
Happens every time!
How much are you asking for the truck
33:37
Should be the 345 cid. That was their go to engine for everything!
Yes it should be
she was a tough engine could take a liken ang keep on ticken
@@busterturner8702 Could be a 304 International. The 304, 345, and 392 all had the same block. One of my cousins had a '66 International 1600 truck that had the 304. I later had a Scout II with the 304. Bulletproof engine, but really thirsty.
Yes your right. I did see the 180 hp stamped on the plate. However im still assuming.
@@rockymountainjazzfan1822 Yep, I had the same in 1975 International Travelall, great strong motor, could haul anything and climbed thru snow like a tank during winter months with spike tires on.
Always started and ran like a champ with just regular service.
I was sitting there screaming "USE YOUR LEGS!!!" when you were trying to get the cab up!!! LOL I could feel the back strain from Texas!!!
I have been waiting a long time for JYD to be working on international trucks. I have a 1972 1110 pickup that I have been working on and finally got it running from your videos!
0
That's awesome dude any plans for it?
same, i've been waiting a long time, have a 1979 international scout ii
Nice I almost got my 67 international 1200 4x4 to run today
Hi Kevin. The International CO's were called Loadstars until about 1968 when the name was changed to Cargostar to avoid confusion with the conventional Loadstars. .
There is nothing this dude can't start. I wish to be like you some day sir.
Thanks for going so in depth on the carb. A lot of people don't understand fuel injection, so they swap carbs on, but can't really tune those either. lol
In my humble opinion, fuel injection is way simpler than carb. But you really need to pay attention to electrical system, and that's what the majority of people is really afraid of.
That cabover is awesome, and that motor sounded so good even when it first fired off. What a cool truck.
Reminds me of my '62 step side. Sat in a neighbor's yard for 45 years. Pulled it to the house, checked the oil, sprayed the cylinders, jumped it from my van and it was running in about an hour.
That carb is probably original, and would be a stock replacement even if it isn't. If you have to time a gas IH SV-8, it times off cylinder 8, Not 1. And it uses gears instead of a chain. You can get both of those master cylinders, at about $450 apiece. The clutch slave is cheaper because it was used on light line trucks also, likely under $100. You can get rebuild kits for all of them, or be like me and use heat shrink and ingenuity. As to the engine c.i.d. there are choices, a SV-8 304 or 345, or a LV-8 401, 461, or 478. There's a bossed face behind the generator, I Think, that has the designation. They're great trucks, you'll play hell trying to kill them, if you do try, because they're made for maximum output in all quarters all day long and all night if you can keep up.
Kevin...you have come a long way with your mechanic skills and diagnostic since i first watched you 3 years ago on the abandoned F250....i love your channel and all your excursions....looking forward to many more.
I never tire of Kevin's Revival video's. I think it's because we are watching a man really enjoying what he is doing.
Same enthusiasm as in the Possum in the Fiat video, the one that made me discover this channel.
Please get this amazing man and Mook to a million😊
Subscriber from the UK here.
Always amazed to see trucks of this size with petrol engines.
I guess it just shows how cheap petrol used to be over there!
@Norwindian In the UK In the mid sixties, you could buy four gallons for one pound Sterling.
The exchange rate at the time was around two dollars US, to one pound Sterling.
So US petrol was effectively half the price of the UK. Plus the fact that wages were much higher in the US.
9:36
"Consistently Sad and Slow" is going to be the title of my Autobiography.
Dude, that is an understated lovely old truck - great find! A tip on the Hayes-type split-rim, cast-centre wheels: check the torque on the rim clamping bolts. If there’s any jacking between the wheel centre to rim pads around the bolts, it’s worth stripping them down and flattening things so they fit flat and will hold torque. Reason: a friend had a European Fiat truck on similar wheels. One day he had to brake hard and the tyres gripped but the rim clamps didn’t. Both rims on the front axle rotated around the wheel centres, chopped the valve stems off and left him at the roadside with two flat tyres and a really good story 🙂
Very excited to see some internationals, currently working on a 69' 1300D and used some of your videos to help get it going!
Good to see old trucks running, it's funny to me,how some of the younger generation is into old stuff, that's great ,my life is almost over, but l to enjoyed old trucks, hope he passes that on ✌️
"More slippery than rust." Love it.
Kevin I bought a reman holley ( by colt industries) and you are so right. it was 2 barrel similar to the one you have there for a Buick 3.8 even fire motor from the early 1980s. This what was wrong with it. The throttle shaft was twisted just slightly so one plate didn't close. the accelerator pump didn't work and it didn't idle because the metering block was full of white media blasting sand and the base wasn't flat. It had a tag on it and hadn't come out of the box since it left the factory. it came via a local supplier. He took the carb back and couldn't get me another one quickly. So he replaced the acc pump with the correct one took it apart and cleaned a the metering block out and fitted a better suited power valve, straightened the throttle shaft and had the base machined flat at no cost to me. That was a long time ago. Lately i've been fitting new carbs form Edelbrock . You bolt them on, attach the cable, fuel hose, the choke. you start it. It runs and idles. Check the timing, drive it for 10 minutes reset the idle and its done and no come backs for faults so far. I've fitted 5 so far and i'm happy.
Hey thanks for the carburetor tips and starting your vehicle when it’s warm I always wondered why it was harder starting when I just had it running!
Not sure if anyone else had mentioned this but when I open my cab overs, I open both doors. Puts weight up front to help with weight. Hope your back feels better Kevin👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I love the idea of kevin attempting to drive with the cabin up makes me laugh slightly. It feels very junkyard digs of him
Sorry brother, just now able to watch this. But I'm happy to finally be here. Big reason I started my channel, Quint 1836, is because of you. Rock on man!
That old binder ran pretty damn good. I see you can buy intakes and cams and such for that engine, I assume it is valve float that is really limiting for them. I wonder if you did head work, how much performance you can get. Would the bottom end stand up to a few pounds of boost? Slap a blow through system with a Holley Sniper?I mean I know they are heavy as sin but wouldn't a boosted Travelette dropped with some bags be a cool Power Tour ride.
I have been around these ih engines most my life, I am told they came from the factory with a forged bottom end when they started doing that though I am not sure I know that they were doing it by the 60s though. They should hold up to 14lbs no problem
I had a number of those IHs of that vintage. That engine is most probably a 304, but that is the same block as the 345. Both the 304 and 345 had the same carb, the 2 barrel Holley. Only the 392 had the 4 bbl Holley. The 304 (plus the 345, & 392) is a good engine with stellite valve seats and sodium filled exhaust valves. No timing chains and sprockets on any of these 3 v-8s. They ran gear on gear for driving the single cam shaft. They did have hydraulic lifters and always a high oil pressure. The weak spot was the cam/lever fuel pump. When they failed, they shot oil out of a breather hole straight up on the bottom side of the hood.
As to the hydraulic clutch, take it apart to find out what size the bore is. They use the same rubber cups as used in wheel brake cylinders. Usually they need a bit of honing out to get rid of the rust ring where the rubber cup sat for many years. There is only one rubber cup in the slave cylinder, not two. Often the master cylinder does not need rebuilding, but has just drained out the brake oil. Normal DOT 3 or 4 works fine in the clutch cylinders. The clutch pedal sticks "down" when the fluid is low. Its return depends on the return spring on the slave lever (besides the over center spring beneath the dash board).
The rather slow cranking speed of these engines is normal. They will start even in real cold temps like -20F. That one probably has a pull knob throttle on the dash board to run a faster idle until it warms up.
That column shifter is for the 4 speed tranny. Look carefully at the shift pattern. Some of the trucks with the conventional front end (Load Star) had 5 speed trannys, and the ones I had, had a very unusual shift pattern, but was synchro in all except the first gear.
I remember that International had a 345 Cid engine in just about everything
Usually the two barrel was it 3 45 and the four-barrel with a 392
Just a TIP fellas...open both doors on the cabover and cab is alot easier to lift (old IHC tech)
Literally the earliest I’ve ever been to a video 😂
I came early too
We all did when we were younger......
I always come early..
I'm 6days late...
@@Bran252 six days is kind of early to tell, let’s not jump to conclusions
Worked at a farm supply company in the mid 70's and had several old IH trucks. Overloaded every day with grain, fertilizer, etc. Ran the crap out of them and they just kept on running. They were built to last. With a little work, that truck still has a lot of life left in it.
Ah how I love old 60s internationals
Probably an International 345 c.i. motor...Used them in school buses as-well.
They built millions of them.
I can already tell this is gonna be epic. Love you guys!
18:30 If your boiling the fuel in the carburetor, a phenolic or equilivalent spacer is needed. That will keep the carburetor from soaking up the heat of the intake and prevent hard starting when hot. Also on holleys, a viton accelerator pump diaphragm is a must for the ethanol in the fuels now. Mine leaks all the fuel out the bowl and makes hard starting, been meaning to replace it but the truck just sits right now.
Wow those are some beautiful trucks and in amazing condition for sitting out in a field! The cab over is especially in good condition! These are the types of things id love to have in my collection.
I grow up in the passenger seat of a COE, in the 1970s and early 80s big smile .good video. IH forever.
41:41 you can see the cab springs on the bottom right. Guess after 60 years they don’t have the same tension
Had to replace a
lot of them.
14:29 so satisfying to see how all the dirt, debris and cobwebs are blown out as she starts :D
“But I made transoline fluid” lmfao
My first visit really enjoy watching thank you for your videos
18:29 Hm, I knew that fuel would vaporize. I think there's different conditions though. My zero turn(Kohlerr CV750) likes some choke if I start it after it was hot. I assume it vaporized some of the fuel instead of puddling in the carb like that. Probably different designs suffer from different problems (if any, depending on the model).
My briggs motors are less prone to that. The 84 dodge pickup we used to have never started hard hot, but fuel liked to drain back so it sure hated starting cold. I had a procedure that worked pretty well, two pumps and to set the choke, crank it, two pumps, usually fired off, if not I'd hold the throttle wide open. I suppose an electric Mr Gasket Autozone fuel pump would've helped in hindsight. This was back before I knew much about that engine or engines in general. My dad was not happy because (and being an aircraft, truck, and car mechanic for 60+ years) he knew it should not be that hard to start, but I guess he wasn't motivated enough to fix it. He kinda got tired of vehicles fighting him after so long. Still an electric fuel pump might've been the easy solution. In hindsight my procedure required some cranking probably because it was an engine driven fuel pump.
I looked these up. They used the 304, 345, 392. I would say it is a 345. I like these trucks. My uncle had one on the farm. I believe it was a 1970 model. He also drove a 1970 International 1110 pickup. According to family legend, he bought both of em at one time to replace the older Ford Grain truck and the old Studebaker pickup. Awesome video. ❤
The Loadstar's were also built here in the UK in the 1960's, fitted with a Perkins 6-354 diesel engine.
And also in Germany (Heidelberg Plant). First with the Perkins, and then with the German IH Diesel D- 310 and D-358. I have one with the D-358. runs great!
they remind me of the old Bedfords, TKs etc.
With these old cab overs, you need to open both of the doors before lifting the cab. Helps with counter balancing, thus making it easier to lift cab.
Aw yis. fresh upload and you've got some truly tired iron to work on! Those big V8s have an amazing burble to 'em too; pretty sure the conventional one you have is the same model as Puddin's Wheelhop Wilma.
Between the clutch and the rings I am not surprised. Good luck
I've had several of both along with Chevys and Ford's.. The IHs were the most reliable..
The handling reminds me of a Ford's and I love that
I have a 92 f250 with the international 7.3 you did in a previous tow truck revival and I still can't kill that motor. Long as u keep oil in them they run forever and ever.
I feel grateful to you for sharing your expertise with the rest of us. Thank you sir.
Im just watching this before work so I'll finish tonight. I had a 67 International grain truck just like the other one. Never had an issue and bought it with 21000 miles. Used as a scrapping truck since I could just dump the stuff. Great vehicle to have even today
I have learned more about carburetors from watching your videos than anywhere else
My dad had the same truck ❤️ I drove all over the country That truck has a column shift Love it put her back on the road
304 was their base engine. Optional 345 or 392. Had a 75 3/4 ton pickup with a 392
When I see old vehicles sitting for a long time there is always weeds and briars growing around them! Must be nice to have a clean work environment!
Couple of pints today eh?😉 I love this tech type videos, especially carbs which have always been a bit ‘voodoo’ to me. Thanks very much👍
Being it's 1964 and a 1600, you probably have a 304 engine. We had a 1966 Loadstar 1600 and it had a 304. Those were really good little engines. Those little 2 barrel Holleys are cold blooded so you gotta give 'em good choke even when it's 90 degrees out. I know you time it off #8 cylinder and aside from an inline fuel filter, there very likely is a small filter behind a cap nut on the fuel pump. If she acts a little lean or the fuel pressure is down, check that filter. We ran ours for years before we discovered that filter and wondered why she ran a little lean. Once we cleaned that filter, she REALLY ran. Good luck.
My brother came home with a rented moving van like that cab over to move our family a province over.
That shifter sure is weird though. The one we had had a floor shifter with a 1st "granny" gear.
I learn a lot from your instructional video's. There aren't many people around on YT that give such 'hands-on' advise. It makes me even a bit capable of doing maintenance on my 1974 Ford Mustang. Mostly because of your video's I dare to dive into the mechanics of my car.
I died laughing when he yelled “Triple homicide.”
I do love the look of the Loadstar and Fleetstar trucks!
Classics.
Kevin you killed me with battery,"It's consistently sad and slow comment", you nailed the way it sounds in this motor
Like when I had my battery in the car tested as was not a happy starting diesel and the tech goes "Oooh she not happy. " what was funnier was he was talking to himself lol
Every time he gives commentary on why certain things are the way they are, like with carbs it helps me understand my old subaru a little bit better
That cab over would make one heck of a baller car hauler
Yeah, but it'd be super uncomfortable, noisy, and tiring over longer trips. The Roadkill guys have it figured out with their squarebodies with A/C and overdrive units.
@@keon5779 Easily cured with a Vintage Air ac system and an engine and trans swap
@@ae86hachi That's not going to fix the harsh ride and cabin noise that results from the design of a cabover.
Super description of the carburettor.
At 11:33, I thought it blew out fire for an instant, there... Turns out it was trans fluid. LMAO. Looked like arterial spray! Love ya, Kevin! Keep it up! -Vic
2:34 If you listen closely you can hear the exact moment he poops a little.
In all seriousness I drove one of those for a few years.
They aren't meant to be tipped by a single man. Kudos for muscling that thing over.
I haven't seen the whole video but I'm guessing that's probably a 345. Hey remember they used to have commercials back in the day where they would have the 2-ton trucks next to a scout and I think it said something along the lines of they put the big motor from the big truck in the scout. Some guessing it's probably going to be a 345 or 392
Old school carb baby, that's why the air/fuel is where they are, but I have awesome faith that you are going to conquer and move on in your quest for a truck moving under its own power
Ah yes, good ol’ transoline oil. Also this is not the first international engine you’ve worked on. I’ve done some googling and the Ford IDI’s were originally international Diesel engines
International made all their diesels beside the current 6.7l
That would be navistar international not really IH anymore
Basically the 6.9/7.3 idi & 7.3 PSD are the only good ford used dsls that are any good.
6.0 & 6.4 are trash. Idk abt power.
@@HALOman-vi2tg oh ok
I had a ‘76 Ford 6.9 diesel, that thing went 225,000 for me, I sold it to a friend and he got another 200,000 out of it! The body rusted out but that engine was still going.
That cab over is really nice.
Ah thank you dude my leg is broke and I’m done with my school work so I’ve had nothing to do but wait on videos specially yours.
Dang o'l busted my bucker man
man you make good revival videos on classic, modern, and rare weird vehicles... It really helps a lot with learning about engines and vehicles and stuff!
Oh man, I love the sound of that starter when you are cranking it!
Nice old trucks bring back memories. Not surprised about the engine confusion among the community. There’s a famous writer for a car magazine who got the IH 304 mixed up with the AMC 304 even! The SV series V8s are truck engines. Big blocks, low RPM, thirsty and built with low rpm torque in mind, not top end hp. I blew a valve spring as a kid trying to drive a 304 powered Scout like a hot rod. They don’t like much above 4500 rpm. But down low thru the mud they pulled like a Farmall tractor. Think diesel style torque. That’s what they were meant for. Gear driven valve train too! That’s what gave every SV powered vehicle an odd supercharger style whine when pulling hard. It’s part of their character. Sixty year old technology . It’s nice to see them preserved rather than swapped out as long as they’re viable.
Kevin uploading on a Thursday????? Honestly today felt like a Friday lol
Its eh
It's not the same day for everyone
The cab reminds of the Bedford TK that was popular in the UK. That cab was bolted down and the only access to the engine was via lift up panels at the rear of the cab. You are lucky your working on a tilt cab, and access to the engine is easy. Cheers, Paul.
when you use a stick for the throttle when the linkage is right beside your hand :D
Those are both great trucks.
I love the cab style of that conventional but I have a soft spot for COEs too.
as Kevin goes for the weightlifting record in revivals in this one.
he looks like a strong dude, that cab musta been heavy
Nice old grain trucks.
Was literally just wondering when JYD would put out another video!!
Great job Kevin. Nice rebuild on the carburetor. Learning a lot from you.
CAB Overs,,,Tech tip... to lift cab,,open both doors,,,much easier lift!
A guy might need a lone wolf 2000 love the content keep it up
Get a package of sandpaper nail boards. Great for cleaning points. Local politicians still give ones with their name on the out to farmers around here.
Hell yeah a loadstar
A cargostar and a loadstar in the thumbnail you know there will be some fun! My father had a cargo star (coe) with a 392 running on propane and a load star with a 345 2 barrel holley and set up to move mobile homes with a giant winch and a really short wheelbase
No offence, but Jed looks like a Scottish Santa. That beard terrifies me
My step dad owned 4 Loadstars and 3 60s International pickups all with 304 . He also had a collection of 6 or 7 spare 304 engines, he was a fan
I graduated in 95. I feel old.
I was suppose to graduate in 86.. think ya feel old now?
Old lol I graduated in 76
Cool.
Looks reasonably easy to work on.
I’m remember driving one of these when it was new. The column shifter was a challenge when new but after the truck had more kms the gear change was like pin the tail on the donkey. This motor should be a 392 but it’s a lighter duty truck so it might be a 345.
I’m not saying it was a fantastic engine but at the time GMC was selling offering a V6 and Chevy’s small block was limited on power. Ford offered a decent truck/motor and so did Dodge but IH had a long reputation of building trucks and the 345/392 was kind of a small/big block.
FYI International has made a 4 cylinder that was half of a 304. The distributor app was virtually the same but 4 posts were blocked off. It was actually a very reliable motor. I had a Scout with one.
It's amazing how smart you are. Very mechanically inclined. Lots of knowledge.
Change your toolbox password, you showed it by accident on the video haha
@33:05 in most rebuild kits it has the brass sleeves fittings to replace the throttle linkage hole's so you don't get the vacuum leak on the side of the carburetor.. truthfully people don't know what they are even in the box for and don't replace