Subscribe to Shagral ua-cam.com/video/uCvT80ahSvk/v-deo.html&t= If you buy today's gear through my affiliate links, you'll have enough dynamic range to film the shadow monsters on the sun. Thank you for your Bitcoin donations :) bc1qacvd72s9565hpat4jueeultha3qvrv4kznyl3f Nikon Z6 III amzn.to/3C2KnUc Fringer EF-NZ II amzn.to/4f1fPAH Canon EF 24mm f1.4 amzn.to/48qBAaO Canon C70 amzn.to/4hxz72l Fuji XH2s amzn.to/40CxPx0 All my gear and recommended products can be found in my affiliate shop, thanks for shopping around! www.amazon.com/shop/vegetablepolice
You know you could just get a LED light bulb with a capacitor in it... Your lights are only clipping because they are actually turning on and off multiple times per second with it hertz range... If you match the Hertz range of your lighting then there should be no flickering... The flickering is only there because it's capturing footage and it is oscillating on and off 60 times per second AKA 60 hertz. If your camera matches it completely then there should be no flickering because it should only be capturing the frames of when the light is on... A lot can be solved just using AI... Google does a lot of this with their pixel.
It is better to have higher megapixels in a phone camera because it gives you more digital zoom... You should see the incredible digital zoom of the pixel. imagine Google's AI digital stability plus optical zoom... You could literally zoom onto a gnat's ass from a mile away.
I think you have summed up the majority of your UA-cam channel base we all don't want to learn and just want to buy gear thank you for feeding our addictions
@yawningmarmot Kasey complained about the C100's weight, even without the rig. So sure, he'll opt for another Super-35 camera that's 1/2 pound heavier.
Funny enough I recently bought the C70. I didn’t need it as I already own BMCC6KFF and the ZV-E1. The prices of c70 have dropped quite a bit after the release of C80 so I thought it was the right time to pounce. After owning the c200 I thought was going to hate it and sell it on as soon as I’m done playing with it but… it won me over. The image reminds me of the best qualities of the BmpccOG, the dynamic range is insane. It’s super convenient to shoot with. AF is not at Sony level but it’s usable. The tools for focusing manually and exposure are top notch. One of the test shots for dynamic range I shot under a tree that was backlit. On the raw panel I boosted shadows and lowered highlights by a 100 and my mind was blown. This is next level shit. I’m debating whether to sell the Sony or Blackmagic. Maybe both?
XH2S has a really good dynamic range. I use it for real estate videography and it always surprises me how clear the view through the window, even when you exposed for the interior shot. The other camera brand I saw examples from windows are usually blown.
Can't wait for that comparison of C70 and Fuji xh2s. Buy the Fuji first 👍😁 I think we can have some really interesting episodes comparing these unique cameras 👍👍😉
I will prefer a camera with option to turn off baked in Noise Reduction over a camera with extra 1-1.5 stops of Dynamic Range but no option to disable NR. i.e Lumix S5iix or Fuji Xh-2s over Sony A7iv or A7siii
You probably won't see this but linked to your quest for DR is HDR video. Buying an HDR grading monitor has been the biggest upgrade to my camera gear I've ever made. HDR looks so much sharper than SDR and of course it is HDR too, no more crushing blacks and rolling off whites to squeeze your log footage into rec709. I couldn't believe my eyes and I initially put the new found detail down to the new monitor but it wasn't until I put the monitor in SDR mode everything turned to mush again I realised HDR released my camera gear from rec709 SDR jail. The difference between 4k HDR vs 4k SDR footage is like 4k vs 1080p or when you walk out of the opticians with new glasses on, everything is just way more detailed than you remember. I highly recommend having a look at HDR production, youtube will create an SDR version of your video from the HDR upload so everyone wins.
The point of buying an HDR grading monitor isn’t to just post video in HDR. If you grade in HDR, your SDR grade will end up looking so much better, provided you realise what the 203 diffuse white means and how that translates from HDR to SDR.
On this occasion, I liked the gafpagear article, which explains the essence of the dynamic range, and that, for example, you may need a small dynamic range of say 6 steps, but which will contain a lot of information about differences in medium tones. As well as a dynamic range of 17 stops with a large distribution can interfere with your creativity.
Go for C70 for sure. You’ll probably notice a bigger jump from what u have already. I’m thinking about that C80 and it seems like an awesome camera. C70 is also very nice. Played with the files before and it’s great.
The autofocus update might be a big deal for Fuji. Might as will wait to confirm if it is true. If it isn't I'm selling my Fuji gear and switching out.
GAS is DRIVING U MAD!! Stop it! Do what I do: buy a Fudgie XT-5, with an 18mm, 23, and 56, plus a Voight or two, watch schleps who obsess about gear - and be wholly content with perfecting what you got. Cheryl Crow agrees!
Good video suggestion. Building on that, if you want to achieve the cinema for a tenth of the price of an Alexa thingy, you could achieve similar or better dynamic range by getting a Super 8 Camera and shooting 2 minutes and 30 seconds on a cartridge of Kodak Vision3 50D. You could do this at least a few times before you reach the cost of a digital behemoth needed for such range. It might be a little grainy, but it adds charm, and who cares if we can see any sharpness if we are looking for dynamic range?
The flip side of having a lot of dynamic range is that if you intend to really use all of it in a shot but your delivery is Rec709 SDR, you'll have the "fun" task of trying to squeeze it together in the grade.
If you want close to 14 stops of DR, buy the XH2s, Komodo or the C70. If 1080p or 2.5K is enough then there’s the 5D mark III and EOS M which have 14bit readouts in Magic Lantern RAW, with the 5D costing 600$ and the EOS M around 250€ (My recommendationnis the 700D for less than 200$) There are no other mirrorless cameras that have 14bit readout or a dual gain output from 12bit
feeling better about going from Nikon z6iii to Fuji H2S now lmao. Mainly went because there's the most affordable 1.2/1.4 lenses on that system compared to all others, but the DR stuff became new to me over the last couple days. That sensor does more than I realized. H2s with 500 5.6
The Fuji XH2, great choice! With, Sirui Sniper 16mm f/1.2, Viltrox 27mm f1.2, Fuji 56mm f1.2 and Sirui Sniper 16mm f/1.2. Even the Tamron 17-70mm f/2.8 Di III-A VC lens, can also be a great choice for certain purposes. But if after a few days or months they bore you, don't worry buddy, I accept camera or lens' gift. Reach me out!
The new nikon lenses seem great but I agree if you have the EF glass and nikon then you will never beat that by much. Not until technology greatly advances anyway. You pretty much reached the perfect camera, or as close as you can get at this point in time.
Why does every shoot I work on with Arri mini look so good? Something tells me it's not lab specs. More like the interplay between the highlight roll off and flattering color management, maybe at expense of color accuracy. I just like it.
x-h2s with canon lenses? I saw a video recently about a guy who did that. Should canon lenses let in more light than fuji apsc (if canon lenses are speedboosted)?
Nothing beats a Pentax KF for the value it provides. IBIS, Below 0 Operating Temperature, lens selection, colour, dynamic range, ISO performance, OVF, cheap price. If Kasey truly loves vintage lenses, he has to get a Pentax.
lolwut? The thing doesn't even do 1080p (it's 1080i).... What is this, 2005? Sounds like someone bought a KF and is trying to convince themselves it's actually good.
I am selling my Fujifilm X-S20, two batteries, dual charger, Sigma 10-18mm f/2.8, Viltrox 27mm AND 75mm f/1.2, and Tamron 18-300mm. Only problem is I am in Iowa, USA.
@ because the AF is garbage and I am tired of dealing with it. Even AF-S single point has trouble focusing on stationary objects when I’m doing landscape photography. I don’t trust Fuji to fix it
Where are you getting your dynamic range info? I’m looking at a comparison chart right now. Z6III is on par with XH2S up to ISO800 and then surpasses it all the way with an extra stop at the top.
Sony FX 30 at 14.5 stops is plenty - honestly basically every camera on the market now has enough DR for 'cinema' quality images (most actual scenes have at most an 8 or 9 stop range when you analyze them!)
I agree with the dynamic range. I almost always shoot RAW for photos unless I am pressed for time. I'll try my best to nail the exposure when shooting JPEG so I can still tweak the shadows and highlights. I never shoot RAW video. Maybe I should. Do people even grade "cinematic" style videos into HDR?
With baked in noise reduction you can even make an iPhone score 14 stops in DR test which accounts for Signal to Noise Ratio for counting no of acceptable stops. ProRes RAW over HDMI on A7iv will barely score around 12 stops if you don't apply any Noise Reduction to RAW sensor data in S-LOG 3.
Camera sensors aim to replicate the cones in the human eye, but currently, they only use the RGB spectrum, which is flawed. Cameras should utilise the fourth pixel not for another green, but to replicate the rods in the human eye, which are responsible for detecting the white light. The sensitivity of this pixel would be tuned to a frequency not that far from the green, but not exactly the same. If cameras were designed this way, we would likely see a much more natural and realistic image, with colours that would match closely to what we perceive in the real world. However, would require current monitors to be adapted, ideally a new monitor should include this four-frequency range
Honestly the Canon R5ii has the 5th best DR in the world on the CineD list and likely the cheapest for near ARRI level of DR. Its has half a stop more of Useable Dynamic Range over the c70.
You always kill it with your multidimensional-jokes (are the best ones). I think that recording RAW video is the most important thing. So the Canon EOS C70 is a better choice with Cinema Raw Light. And for many other professional surprises like internal NDs. But the real deal is starting to shoot in RAW and familiarize with RAW workflow in post ( with any RAW flavor you want depending on the camera), because is very different in file sizes, speed, gamut, mathematical codification of pixels, noise reduction, there is no subsampling (Is 444), etc. Many people get tired very quickly from the workflow and don't finish to understand that's the only way to stretch the maximum data deficiency in image. It's very funny when somebody says to me, "hey why do you record on raw, is not necessary, there are many movies shot on prores 444, like Drive ", bla bla bla, and the next month they are shooting on raw when they want to get the best image for a serious work xD. If you see interview with the colorists of really cool directors like David Fincher, they absolutely all say the same of RAW. Well there is always the option of learning things the hard way, it can be very fruitful too. But learning things the hardway is not the knowledge of wisdom in cinema, is the wisdom of pain (maybe something also good...maybe in that case do more martial arts). The other thing is start using PL lenses and put a PL adapter to the camera mount. PL lenses can be used in any pl mount for life (funny but true truth). important side note: after learning this then you can apply the typical philosophy of "all depends on the image needed for the project".
Xh2s plus 35mm please. And if you can compare with the fuji 33mm f1. 4, it would be awesome. People say 33mm is too clinical and 35mm too noisy and slow on video, but no disrespect to others youtubers, your opinions rule!
The Weird thing about those that Complain the most about Dynamic Range spend by far the most time using Post Processing software regardless of which camera they are using. They Blank on Canon regardless and they praise Sony, regardless. We all want decent dynamic range which most modern cameras, already have. What we all actually want, really isn't mainstream.
Here's a suggestion for your next video that would very likely be highly entertaining to your subs: You reading comments from people like me suggesting we see plenty of 3D pop in lenses you claim don't have any...and then slapping your computer...hard. Go and deliver this to us. We'll be waiting.
Dynamic range is NOT "clipping hilights" in any way. It is sensor NOISE. In almost any camera even cheapest one one can easy set ND/aperture combo to get any hilight ideal, but as soon as you realize all image insanely dark so you get pitch black and only (lamp or sun) you try to "pull up" shadows using post processing and then actual dynamic range kick in. Dynamic range = NOISE. Period. Same in sound, absolutely same. You can get sound not clipping but as soon as you try to post process "pull up" other sources back you get noise and it is actual what dynamic range is. With audio you do always perfect on channel, but as soon as you talk about image. Damn. It is SAME - pixel color and sound both must get aquired by our senes and go brain, BOTH have dynamic range, and it is NOISE that our main goal is get as low as possible.
This👆 And it's also why dynamic range tests are subjective, because how much useful dynamic range a camera has depends on an individual user's tolerance to noise levels.
@@simonwyndham not true. Good tests show not only all visible stops above noise floor but also how many stop are available at specific signal to noise ratios.
@@cameraconspiracies so, how you going to "check" or "compare" dynamic range in camera? Continue to shooting yorself bending so Sun will be behind face and look is face go darker on one camera than another as usual? Proper way - use Atomic Ninja or whatewer, connect to camera, choose same prefer maximum possible bitrate with lesss compression. Like Gerald undone and almost all other. Try to linearize input data while in high bit editor intermediate mode (defaut in Resolve), then look as NOISE in dark and middle area side by side. Less noise - camera have better dynamic range. But let me guess, we well see another bending youself with famous phrase "wow dynamic range" clips that only show what OETF camera manufacturer use by default and barely connected to actual dynamic range? Another "semi-proper "way - set both cameras at base ISO, and try to same aperture and shoot some "night city walk". Try to postprocess w/o any NR to get normal image, just minimal "black level" and "contrast" touch maybe . Camera with better Dynamic range will have much less noise. But I have no hope, as you tend to ignore that "disgusting clynical sharp science crp" and use " I see that camera it better" (face of self bending man is brigtner against sun ) mode. Wil see.
@@LiveMyJourneyTom Charts aren't real world shooting, and a 'visible' stop doesn't always translate into what a DP might accept themselves as usable. Each DP will have their own opinion on the usable DR of each given camera they use based on their tolerance of noise levels. Not to mention the variations in DR between all the different ISO settings. People get too hung up on dynamic range. Any modern camera produced within the past 10 years or so is capable of great imagery. Ultra-wide dynamic range won't improve your composition, or the emotional quality of the light you're shooting in. Nor will it do production design for you if you're making a fictional piece. When some of the greatest photos were taken using reversal film stock that only had around 6-stops available, it says something about the crazy focus on DR that some seem to have.
Nah. Most important thing for true cinema are lighting. You can live with micro 4/3 sensor, but without 2 kilowatts of lights per square meter you can't do anything. And not yours LED lights. Even best and most expensive LEDs wouldn't give you colours of fiery metal. Our flat earth for millions of years are illuminated by burning metal ball. We evolved to see this light. Only incandescent tungsten can give you light to capture real colours. Just try shooting the same object under an incandescent lamp and an LED lamp.
sure, more light will decreaise fundamental photon noise that help a lot. As especially scattered light amplify that noise even more and skin subsurface scattering take big role in "omg holliwood perfect skin" final effect.
Dynamic range specs on cameras are very over inflated. On Photons to Photos the Nikon Z 7II has a maximum DR of 11.6 at base ISO 64 which is one of the best for full frame. Even the mighty medium format Hasselblad X2D-100c at base ISO 64 is better by only 0.72 stops and it costs $8,200. Not all that much especially considering it’s 16-bit and rated to have 15 stops of DR but it really measured 12.32.
Yeah I already saw the actual good video that the guy worked way harder than you have ever worked a single second, you should write that man a kindly worded letter and thank him for giving you the idea to steal his idea.
Brother, Get the Canon. If you want good video also get a Carl Zeiss pancolar 50mm f1.8 lens or a 1970's Helios 44-2 58mm f2. You love to auto focus anyway. You will have the 3D pop plus the look that your going for. Dune II was filmed with a re-bodied Helios 44-2 58mm f2 lens. Watch the movie and say I'm wrong. 👍
not Helios, stop it. It have so bad AR coating and AR lens edge paint. Cinema guys use self made Helios, recoating it is some secret mil-grade lab. If you work in that lab that can do 100 layers of AR coating, then go Helios. I had that crp as my first lens , it shoot moody washy image like front lens always spilled by .. well, maybe mayonese. In instruction it complete that was sarcastically noted as "soft portrait lens", by soft they meant white filling interrreflection crp that fill all image so high high as plastic 2 lense kid binocular after heavy usage.
@AABB-px8lc I use a lens hood and I am careful with the light, especially sunlight. I am getting very good images with it. I was going to post you a couple images but I can't find a way to do it.
@@gregdyer7227 then it is definitely NOT Helios 44/2 but some modern "enhanced copy". Original used most primitive 1 layer coat that have purple reflecton tint as any old ~1970 lens if you look at some angle. Anyway, it is most used here as we had literally 2 options at times - industar 61 and that Helios and test it billion times as no other options for average photo hobbyist. If it work for you why not. Personally i just run out screaming as it was my first lens and it almost kill my hobby untill I discover how insanely good was dad industar 61 vs that crp.
@@AABB-px8lc you put a smile on my face with running out screaming. That was me the first time I was getting a shot back-lit by the sun. It definitely has limitations. Really have to keep the hood on and pay close attention to the light and never point it towards sunlight.
Worst autofocus of our time? I look forward to it. Lmao. Honestly so close to selling all of my shit to get a gfx50. Kinda surprised you haven't messed with a s5ii yet....
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You know you could just get a LED light bulb with a capacitor in it... Your lights are only clipping because they are actually turning on and off multiple times per second with it hertz range... If you match the Hertz range of your lighting then there should be no flickering... The flickering is only there because it's capturing footage and it is oscillating on and off 60 times per second AKA 60 hertz. If your camera matches it completely then there should be no flickering because it should only be capturing the frames of when the light is on... A lot can be solved just using AI... Google does a lot of this with their pixel.
It is better to have higher megapixels in a phone camera because it gives you more digital zoom... You should see the incredible digital zoom of the pixel. imagine Google's AI digital stability plus optical zoom... You could literally zoom onto a gnat's ass from a mile away.
The more insane thing about the world is that anyone would spend any bit of money on a camera when they can just buy a Google pixel...
Kodak 50D 16mm film outperforms digital still, lol. Get yourself a Krasnogorsk 3 with EF mount conversion!
Thanks for the shoutout, Kasey! I really appreciate it, mate. Glad you loved the video. I mean, all I've ever wanted is the perfect camera....
Thanks for all the hard work!
@@shagral subscribed 😁👍👍👍thank you for the great content 💪
Your channel is one of the best i’ve come across. Keep destroying the misinformation in this community
This guy has the broadest Dynamic Range on UA-cam between funny and serious. No other camera reviewers even come close!
I think you have summed up the majority of your UA-cam channel base we all don't want to learn and just want to buy gear thank you for feeding our addictions
The bigger question, how do we create more range in ourselves ;) That's my biggest challenge!
Defeat your shadow self.
Wait, no maybe it's encourage your shadow self to go darker 🤔
@@sdyates2001 push down your shadow self and raise your highlight self
@@orange-you-later maximum pop!
very simple.. use osmo pocket 3 as your primary weapon.
Thank you! This is truly comedy show. I laughed out loud during very bad day today. You are doing stand up every day for us. Thaks again.
Buying gear is way more fun than learning technique. Keep going to the train tracks.
LOL true...
😂😂😂😂💯💯
Yeah but it won't make you a good photographer though. Just a rank amateur with a bunch of expensive gear.
XH2S and the XF 35mm 1.4 would be magic! (as long as you don't use 240fps slow motion)
Go XH2S because way more of us are likely to buy one than a C70.
Only if Kasey wants to rack focus manually all day long ;)
@yawningmarmot Kasey complained about the C100's weight, even without the rig. So sure, he'll opt for another Super-35 camera that's 1/2 pound heavier.
@@JohnDrummondPhoto I mean he basically said he'll review both so why not :D
He doesn’t like Fuji
Funny enough I recently bought the C70. I didn’t need it as I already own BMCC6KFF and the ZV-E1. The prices of c70 have dropped quite a bit after the release of C80 so I thought it was the right time to pounce. After owning the c200 I thought was going to hate it and sell it on as soon as I’m done playing with it but… it won me over. The image reminds me of the best qualities of the BmpccOG, the dynamic range is insane. It’s super convenient to shoot with. AF is not at Sony level but it’s usable. The tools for focusing manually and exposure are top notch. One of the test shots for dynamic range I shot under a tree that was backlit. On the raw panel I boosted shadows and lowered highlights by a 100 and my mind was blown. This is next level shit. I’m debating whether to sell the Sony or Blackmagic. Maybe both?
Yo! This is the guy that bought the Fuji Xh2s from you! Yes it was $3100, if you want to borrow it for a weekend you could let me know!
XH2S has a really good dynamic range. I use it for real estate videography and it always surprises me how clear the view through the window, even when you exposed for the interior shot. The other camera brand I saw examples from windows are usually blown.
The C70 speedbooster causes crazy weird flaring issues. Look it up before going down that route.
I am binge watching you content like crazy!
Thanks!
Thank you!
Please do the XH2 first. DOn't know why, but I jus tcan't get enough of those cyan skies.
Casey has the most dynamic range among camera youtubers
Yes please ! Canon C70 vs Nikki Boy! We need that comparison in our life
We want c70 comparison to xh2s ... NOWWW
Thanks for the nerdy video - it’s fantastic!
Nikon Z5 ❤️
Can't wait for that comparison of C70 and Fuji xh2s. Buy the Fuji first 👍😁 I think we can have some really interesting episodes comparing these unique cameras 👍👍😉
I will prefer a camera with option to turn off baked in Noise Reduction over a camera with extra 1-1.5 stops of Dynamic Range but no option to disable NR.
i.e Lumix S5iix or Fuji Xh-2s over Sony A7iv or A7siii
That intro. Dude you are killing me
SHAGRAL’s video on iso is the best
Don't give Casey another reason to make another video
best opening line of any youtube video ever
Your content already looks amazing!
Reach for the C70. I'm tired of looking at whack film simulation colours and wonky white balances everywhere on UA-cam.
You probably won't see this but linked to your quest for DR is HDR video. Buying an HDR grading monitor has been the biggest upgrade to my camera gear I've ever made. HDR looks so much sharper than SDR and of course it is HDR too, no more crushing blacks and rolling off whites to squeeze your log footage into rec709. I couldn't believe my eyes and I initially put the new found detail down to the new monitor but it wasn't until I put the monitor in SDR mode everything turned to mush again I realised HDR released my camera gear from rec709 SDR jail. The difference between 4k HDR vs 4k SDR footage is like 4k vs 1080p or when you walk out of the opticians with new glasses on, everything is just way more detailed than you remember. I highly recommend having a look at HDR production, youtube will create an SDR version of your video from the HDR upload so everyone wins.
The point of buying an HDR grading monitor isn’t to just post video in HDR. If you grade in HDR, your SDR grade will end up looking so much better, provided you realise what the 203 diffuse white means and how that translates from HDR to SDR.
On this occasion, I liked the gafpagear article, which explains the essence of the dynamic range, and that, for example, you may need a small dynamic range of say 6 steps, but which will contain a lot of information about differences in medium tones. As well as a dynamic range of 17 stops with a large distribution can interfere with your creativity.
Go for C70 for sure. You’ll probably notice a bigger jump from what u have already. I’m thinking about that C80 and it seems like an awesome camera. C70 is also very nice. Played with the files before and it’s great.
The autofocus update might be a big deal for Fuji. Might as will wait to confirm if it is true. If it isn't I'm selling my Fuji gear and switching out.
“Don’t get high off your own supply.” From Dopeman by NWA which predated Tupac and Biggie.
Awesome video. Right on!
maybe it's worth looking through old lenses in search of 3D POP?
GAS is DRIVING U MAD!! Stop it! Do what I do: buy a Fudgie XT-5, with an 18mm, 23, and 56, plus a Voight or two, watch schleps who obsess about gear - and be wholly content with perfecting what you got. Cheryl Crow agrees!
Good video suggestion.
Building on that, if you want to achieve the cinema for a tenth of the price of an Alexa thingy, you could achieve similar or better dynamic range by getting a Super 8 Camera and shooting 2 minutes and 30 seconds on a cartridge of Kodak Vision3 50D. You could do this at least a few times before you reach the cost of a digital behemoth needed for such range. It might be a little grainy, but it adds charm, and who cares if we can see any sharpness if we are looking for dynamic range?
2:06 lol ‘I’m about to butcher science like it was a pig’ 🐽
The flip side of having a lot of dynamic range is that if you intend to really use all of it in a shot but your delivery is Rec709 SDR, you'll have the "fun" task of trying to squeeze it together in the grade.
If you want close to 14 stops of DR, buy the XH2s, Komodo or the C70.
If 1080p or 2.5K is enough then there’s the 5D mark III and EOS M which have 14bit readouts in Magic Lantern RAW, with the 5D costing 600$ and the EOS M around 250€ (My recommendationnis the 700D for less than 200$)
There are no other mirrorless cameras that have 14bit readout or a dual gain output from 12bit
feeling better about going from Nikon z6iii to Fuji H2S now lmao. Mainly went because there's the most affordable 1.2/1.4 lenses on that system compared to all others, but the DR stuff became new to me over the last couple days. That sensor does more than I realized. H2s with 500 5.6
I would love to see youre take on the c70 Kasey 🙂
The only thing this video has brought me is the thought : i need an XH2S, now.
The Fuji XH2, great choice! With, Sirui Sniper 16mm f/1.2, Viltrox 27mm f1.2, Fuji 56mm f1.2 and Sirui Sniper 16mm f/1.2. Even the Tamron 17-70mm f/2.8 Di III-A VC lens, can also be a great choice for certain purposes. But if after a few days or months they bore you, don't worry buddy, I accept camera or lens' gift. Reach me out!
The new nikon lenses seem great but I agree if you have the EF glass and nikon then you will never beat that by much. Not until technology greatly advances anyway. You pretty much reached the perfect camera, or as close as you can get at this point in time.
Why does every shoot I work on with Arri mini look so good? Something tells me it's not lab specs. More like the interplay between the highlight roll off and flattering color management, maybe at expense of color accuracy. I just like it.
Xs20 🙏
We can just assume manual focus with fuji and enjoy the ride, I guess.
Where do you buy and sell your gear? Excellent video like always, Butchering all you touch!😂
x-h2s with canon lenses? I saw a video recently about a guy who did that. Should canon lenses let in more light than fuji apsc (if canon lenses are speedboosted)?
I want the canon C70 and Fuji xh2s immediately ❤!!!
Nothing beats a Pentax KF for the value it provides.
IBIS, Below 0 Operating Temperature, lens selection, colour, dynamic range, ISO performance, OVF, cheap price.
If Kasey truly loves vintage lenses, he has to get a Pentax.
Literally anything beats it for video lol.
@@cameraconspiraciesI bet you $20 that the Pentax KF beats your Sony 3000 for video.
lolwut? The thing doesn't even do 1080p (it's 1080i).... What is this, 2005?
Sounds like someone bought a KF and is trying to convince themselves it's actually good.
@@Michael-fw5efnerd
@@Bradumnerd
Canon C70, let's go!
I am selling my Fujifilm X-S20, two batteries, dual charger, Sigma 10-18mm f/2.8, Viltrox 27mm AND 75mm f/1.2, and Tamron 18-300mm. Only problem is I am in Iowa, USA.
why are you selling arguably the best APS-c camera and some of the best APS-c lenses (fuji 70-300 is better...)?
@@klklkl427586 fuji autofocus?
@ because the AF is garbage and I am tired of dealing with it. Even AF-S single point has trouble focusing on stationary objects when I’m doing landscape photography. I don’t trust Fuji to fix it
You've been without a Fuji in your life for quite a while now. So, I think that is the answer. Besides, that beautiful XF35 T1.4 needs some love.
Where are you getting your dynamic range info? I’m looking at a comparison chart right now. Z6III is on par with XH2S up to ISO800 and then surpasses it all the way with an extra stop at the top.
You're looking at photo information, not video.
"Don't quote me on this! " 😂😂
A film camera and Ayahausca has the most dynamic range
Sony FX 30 at 14.5 stops is plenty - honestly basically every camera on the market now has enough DR for 'cinema' quality images (most actual scenes have at most an 8 or 9 stop range when you analyze them!)
Get the xh2s!! Would love to see reviews.
I agree with the dynamic range. I almost always shoot RAW for photos unless I am pressed for time. I'll try my best to nail the exposure when shooting JPEG so I can still tweak the shadows and highlights. I never shoot RAW video. Maybe I should. Do people even grade "cinematic" style videos into HDR?
Love my om-1.2 !😛
If you are already using a matte box, a simple graduated ND filter could help prevent clipping of the lamp for a lot less than a C70
But you'd be lying to yourself.
@cameraconspiracies only way I know how 💯
@@orange-you-laterjust use DC powered lighting without a Hertz range... The sun doesn't clip.
Or you could just use local adjustment to tone it down in post for free :)
@@cameraconspiracies what’s wrong with lying?
Sony A7Cii has 14 stops with the *right codec and settings*. UPDATE: ua-cam.com/video/Z1p31REBao0/v-deo.html
With baked in noise reduction you can even make an iPhone score 14 stops in DR test which accounts for Signal to Noise Ratio for counting no of acceptable stops.
ProRes RAW over HDMI on A7iv will barely score around 12 stops if you don't apply any Noise Reduction to RAW sensor data in S-LOG 3.
Camera sensors aim to replicate the cones in the human eye, but currently, they only use the RGB spectrum, which is flawed.
Cameras should utilise the fourth pixel not for another green, but to replicate the rods in the human eye, which are responsible for detecting the white light. The sensitivity of this pixel would be tuned to a frequency not that far from the green, but not exactly the same. If cameras were designed this way, we would likely see a much more natural and realistic image, with colours that would match closely to what we perceive in the real world. However, would require current monitors to be adapted, ideally a new monitor should include this four-frequency range
Honestly the Canon R5ii has the 5th best DR in the world on the CineD list and likely the cheapest for near ARRI level of DR. Its has half a stop more of Useable Dynamic Range over the c70.
Have you done a video on the A7C II?
You going to buy that new Z50 mark ii?
You always kill it with your multidimensional-jokes (are the best ones). I think that recording RAW video is the most important thing. So the Canon EOS C70 is a better choice with Cinema Raw Light. And for many other professional surprises like internal NDs. But the real deal is starting to shoot in RAW and familiarize with RAW workflow in post ( with any RAW flavor you want depending on the camera), because is very different in file sizes, speed, gamut, mathematical codification of pixels, noise reduction, there is no subsampling (Is 444), etc. Many people get tired very quickly from the workflow and don't finish to understand that's the only way to stretch the maximum data deficiency in image. It's very funny when somebody says to me, "hey why do you record on raw, is not necessary, there are many movies shot on prores 444, like Drive ", bla bla bla, and the next month they are shooting on raw when they want to get the best image for a serious work xD. If you see interview with the colorists of really cool directors like David Fincher, they absolutely all say the same of RAW. Well there is always the option of learning things the hard way, it can be very fruitful too. But learning things the hardway is not the knowledge of wisdom in cinema, is the wisdom of pain (maybe something also good...maybe in that case do more martial arts). The other thing is start using PL lenses and put a PL adapter to the camera mount. PL lenses can be used in any pl mount for life (funny but true truth).
important side note: after learning this then you can apply the typical philosophy of "all depends on the image needed for the project".
Did you go to ProFusion?
Xh2s plus 35mm please. And if you can compare with the fuji 33mm f1. 4, it would be awesome. People say 33mm is too clinical and 35mm too noisy and slow on video, but no disrespect to others youtubers, your opinions rule!
The Weird thing about those that Complain the most about Dynamic Range spend by far the most time using Post Processing software regardless of which camera they are using. They Blank on Canon regardless and they praise Sony, regardless. We all want decent dynamic range which most modern cameras, already have. What we all actually want, really isn't mainstream.
Were did you go? or did UA-cam stop showing you to me? First video in 2 weeks missing you
He’s been uploading as usual? Someone must be messed up with your notifications.
UA-cam tweaked their algorithms leading up to the election. They didn't want your vote to be swayed by conspiracy theorists...
XF18mm f1.4 and XF90mm f2 is all you need for a Fuji body 😊
Get some radioactive lenses and a lead suit for the train tracks episodes.
hahahaha the full Takumar experience
@@Homer-0 You misspelled Chernobyl lol
If they could just make the cameras not shake like its being operated by a toddler, that would be nice.
Here's a suggestion for your next video that would very likely be highly entertaining to your subs: You reading comments from people like me suggesting we see plenty of 3D pop in lenses you claim don't have any...and then slapping your computer...hard. Go and deliver this to us. We'll be waiting.
Canon C70 would be great!
C70. Awesome cinema camera that will last you for years to come.
"...that will last you for years to come."
I think you don't understand this channel. 🤣
He'd sell it before the end of the week
Use the monkey strength program, re-acquire the c100 mk ii and carry it EVERYWHERE to film!
Xh2s. Of course
Dynamic range is NOT "clipping hilights" in any way. It is sensor NOISE. In almost any camera even cheapest one one can easy set ND/aperture combo to get any hilight ideal, but as soon as you realize all image insanely dark so you get pitch black and only (lamp or sun) you try to "pull up" shadows using post processing and then actual dynamic range kick in. Dynamic range = NOISE. Period. Same in sound, absolutely same. You can get sound not clipping but as soon as you try to post process "pull up" other sources back you get noise and it is actual what dynamic range is. With audio you do always perfect on channel, but as soon as you talk about image. Damn. It is SAME - pixel color and sound both must get aquired by our senes and go brain, BOTH have dynamic range, and it is NOISE that our main goal is get as low as possible.
This👆 And it's also why dynamic range tests are subjective, because how much useful dynamic range a camera has depends on an individual user's tolerance to noise levels.
@@simonwyndham not true. Good tests show not only all visible stops above noise floor but also how many stop are available at specific signal to noise ratios.
I never said otherwise. Just take your scenario and expose for the subject. More dynamic range would allow you to retain the highlights.
@@cameraconspiracies so, how you going to "check" or "compare" dynamic range in camera? Continue to shooting yorself bending so Sun will be behind face and look is face go darker on one camera than another as usual? Proper way - use Atomic Ninja or whatewer, connect to camera, choose same prefer maximum possible bitrate with lesss compression. Like Gerald undone and almost all other. Try to linearize input data while in high bit editor intermediate mode (defaut in Resolve), then look as NOISE in dark and middle area side by side. Less noise - camera have better dynamic range. But let me guess, we well see another bending youself with famous phrase "wow dynamic range" clips that only show what OETF camera manufacturer use by default and barely connected to actual dynamic range? Another "semi-proper "way - set both cameras at base ISO, and try to same aperture and shoot some "night city walk". Try to postprocess w/o any NR to get normal image, just minimal "black level" and "contrast" touch maybe . Camera with better Dynamic range will have much less noise. But I have no hope, as you tend to ignore that "disgusting clynical sharp science crp" and use " I see that camera it better" (face of self bending man is brigtner against sun ) mode. Wil see.
@@LiveMyJourneyTom Charts aren't real world shooting, and a 'visible' stop doesn't always translate into what a DP might accept themselves as usable. Each DP will have their own opinion on the usable DR of each given camera they use based on their tolerance of noise levels. Not to mention the variations in DR between all the different ISO settings. People get too hung up on dynamic range. Any modern camera produced within the past 10 years or so is capable of great imagery. Ultra-wide dynamic range won't improve your composition, or the emotional quality of the light you're shooting in. Nor will it do production design for you if you're making a fictional piece. When some of the greatest photos were taken using reversal film stock that only had around 6-stops available, it says something about the crazy focus on DR that some seem to have.
Nah. Most important thing for true cinema are lighting. You can live with micro 4/3 sensor, but without 2 kilowatts of lights per square meter you can't do anything.
And not yours LED lights. Even best and most expensive LEDs wouldn't give you colours of fiery metal.
Our flat earth for millions of years are illuminated by burning metal ball. We evolved to see this light. Only incandescent tungsten can give you light to capture real colours.
Just try shooting the same object under an incandescent lamp and an LED lamp.
sure, more light will decreaise fundamental photon noise that help a lot. As especially scattered light amplify that noise even more and skin subsurface scattering take big role in "omg holliwood perfect skin" final effect.
Sensor and camera design are also important. I can get better video results from my GH5s in low light than my A7RIV.
Get an Irix 150mm Macro lens for the nikon (need the ftz unless you get the much more expensive cinema Z mount), and thank me later.
Dynamic range specs on cameras are very over inflated. On Photons to Photos the Nikon Z 7II has a maximum DR of 11.6 at base ISO 64 which is one of the best for full frame. Even the mighty medium format Hasselblad X2D-100c at base ISO 64 is better by only 0.72 stops and it costs $8,200. Not all that much especially considering it’s 16-bit and rated to have 15 stops of DR but it really measured 12.32.
get the xh2s
XH2S please
sony a200 (2008) with 13 DR stops still shids on many cameras of today.
the GH7 thanks to the DR boost has more dynamic range than APSC cameras, if they put that on a Full frame it will beat Arri
Sony, Sony, Sony. Their made it easy for yall. 😅
You should go to FF. I mean Fuji Forever.
Didn't you say "budget"?
So UA-cam not showing your channel
Alexa35?
Yeah I already saw the actual good video that the guy worked way harder than you have ever worked a single second, you should write that man a kindly worded letter and thank him for giving you the idea to steal his idea.
C70
Brother, Get the Canon. If you want good video also get a Carl Zeiss pancolar 50mm f1.8 lens or a 1970's Helios 44-2 58mm f2. You love to auto focus anyway. You will have the 3D pop plus the look that your going for.
Dune II was filmed with a re-bodied Helios 44-2 58mm f2 lens. Watch the movie and say I'm wrong. 👍
not Helios, stop it. It have so bad AR coating and AR lens edge paint. Cinema guys use self made Helios, recoating it is some secret mil-grade lab. If you work in that lab that can do 100 layers of AR coating, then go Helios. I had that crp as my first lens , it shoot moody washy image like front lens always spilled by .. well, maybe mayonese. In instruction it complete that was sarcastically noted as "soft portrait lens", by soft they meant white filling interrreflection crp that fill all image so high high as plastic 2 lense kid binocular after heavy usage.
@AABB-px8lc I use a lens hood and I am careful with the light, especially sunlight. I am getting very good images with it. I was going to post you a couple images but I can't find a way to do it.
@AABB-px8lc I would like to have it treated but not re-housed. I like the look that it has now.
@@gregdyer7227 then it is definitely NOT Helios 44/2 but some modern "enhanced copy". Original used most primitive 1 layer coat that have purple reflecton tint as any old ~1970 lens if you look at some angle. Anyway, it is most used here as we had literally 2 options at times - industar 61 and that Helios and test it billion times as no other options for average photo hobbyist. If it work for you why not. Personally i just run out screaming as it was my first lens and it almost kill my hobby untill I discover how insanely good was dad industar 61 vs that crp.
@@AABB-px8lc you put a smile on my face with running out screaming. That was me the first time I was getting a shot back-lit by the sun. It definitely has limitations. Really have to keep the hood on and pay close attention to the light and never point it towards sunlight.
Get the H2 and enjoy 8k toneh
Worst autofocus of our time? I look forward to it. Lmao. Honestly so close to selling all of my shit to get a gfx50. Kinda surprised you haven't messed with a s5ii yet....
I reviewed the S5 II and S5 IIx.
@cameraconspiracies my short and long term memory is screwed. AF no good? Your Canadian brothers and Lok love it lol
Never go back... wait for Fuji's next gen, or borrow one for an hour just to remind yourself n scratch that itch...