Has anyone heard of rattling Wastegates on G16E-GTS engines? Any info would be helpful at this stage! Also thinking of what to do with the turbo itself: stock, hybrid, or more?
My GR has the same problem. Even 88% wcd is necessary to keep the boost stable at 1.6bar at 5.5krpm. It was so annoying loud between 1krpm and 2krpm that i almost closed the wcd to 98%.
I've owned a GR Yaris for about 6 months now (new, 0 km) and for the first time in mid August, I've started hearing a rattle that I think might be wastegate related. The rattle only comes on in very specific conditions, at around 2.500-3.500 RPM in either 2nd or 3rd gear, when at around 20-25% throttle going slightly uphill. I've only been able to replicate it 2-3 times since first hearing it. The car doesnt feel different in any way, still pulls the same. Maybe its not wastegate related at all, who knows.
I have adapted the wcd without a PID control first at 1.2, 1.4 & 1.6bar relative. Spent a lot of hours on retrieving data. Eventually it was almost good or near perfect😂, added the PID action and an almost closed WG under 2000rpm resulting in no rattle. I'm happy to share some tables from the Syvecs in private.
i dont have a gr yaris but this man educate me so much about this car and made me love it even more really keep it up my man!! hopefully i get to experience one of these amazing cars!!!
Good fuel quality is mutch more important than other oil viscosities that what the manufacturer prescribes, to prevent detonation. Apparently there is poor fuel quality in Italy, because here in Belgium not a single G16E-GTS has broken down due to poor pre-ignition, even though they run on 0w20😂
@@DeFausti LSPI comes from improper oils. Even if you used a lower octane fuel with the correct oil, you should be okay. The oil makers found that the detergent additives were too volatile, so new formulas were made to prevent LSPI, thus the SP, GF 6 oils we have today.
Hi Adriano! Top level videos as usual, I’ve been busy in these past 2 months but I always watch your videos and they are very informative 👍🏻 the last video was quite concerning but I wanted to thank you for saying things out loud, it’s good to understand possible failure points and trying to prevent them instead of facing the other way as nothing bad can happen. Your suggestion on the 5 points to keep the car safe are very useful. Also I hope that you manage to fix your wastegate valve as soon as possible. Lastly, congratulation for your big decision of moving to Gran Canaria! In bocca al lupo per tutto 💪🏻
Thankyou very much Vittorio!! You are always so kind, I really appreciate your support mate! Please find some time to come and visit us here in GC, I’m preparing some super cool experiences with cars!
Nice update, a lot of work including the move, I think the Rotheli racing sump is a great mod adding 1.2 litres oil capacity and it works with Lamspeed baffles is a no brainer. Always said adding oil capacity is in the sump is the way. Lots of ideas on which oil to use , I'm honestly still unsure. Oil pressure is another topic people are talking about any thoughts on this? Regards Russ....🙏
I am using ow20 signature series oil in my 2024 GR Corolla circuit edition. I changed break in oil at 1000 miles was planning on 5000 mile oil changes it is my daily driver
Not all oil coolers are created equal and investing in the largest surface area/efficient cooler you can afford the better, especially considering the average ambient temperatures the car will be exposed to. In my opinion don't waste time on small 10-13 row 300mm coolers and look at something similar to the HKS oil cooler size (surface area and volume).
Yes, it’s true: I chose the HEL Performance kit, that unites the Setrab cooler with the most beautifully made aluminium sandwich plate, that allows some flow also from cold, in order not to have pressure drops when it opens fully
Ciao Adriano and thanks again for this qualitative and informative video: love all of them! Question please: what about a 5W30 API SP RC? Is RC equivalent to ISLAC GF-6? Thanks for advising and helping.
If you put an oil cooler it’s very important for daily driver to get oil to operating temp to avoid fuel delusion in your oil. Avoid short trips as much as you can. Here in Florida USA we have 93 octane which is 98 RON. I use 98 Ron with PEA additive (Polyetheramine) helps prevent LSPI. Shell VPower, Chevron, Sunoco and other top tier 93/91 octane fuel available.
Good: to avoid issues of heating up oil, you need to select an oil cooler like from HEL Performance, that have a sandwich plate that never closes completely, so you always have oil circulation also in the auxiliary cooling circuit while retaining quick heating process
@@mhk67091 yes, thermostatic sandwich plate BUT, with a thermostat that leaves the circuit 10-15% open all the time, then opens more with heat. In this way there are no large temperature differentials and pressure losses in the system.
Hi AJ thanks for your informative videos, will the octane boosters are an option? some places have have best combustible than others, so you have good or bad experience with them? Regards and have a nice day.
Will GF-6 apply to every kind of viscosity grade? Almost. There will be a split between 0W-16 viscosity grade engine oils and all other existing ILSAC viscosity grades. GF-6A will represent existing ILSAC viscosity grades and GF-6B will represent 0W-16 viscosity grade oils only. So basically, 6A is what we are after mate!
The only abnormal thing that happened to my GRY is the Aircondtioner. When the A/C is on, the engine rpm fluctuates. My Malaysian Toyota dealer has changes the A/C compressor and did as many maintenance as they could. But they couldn’t identify the problem. They even consulted with Toyota Japan and they unfortunately come back with no solution. At the moment it doesn’t caused any unforeseen issues to the engine. Its a small annoying issue, but i hope the community can do enough complain to Toyota and hopefully they might take action.
Hello Jackson, sorry to hear about this trouble! This is a strange one, yes... It could be that there is an obstruction somewhere in the A/C's pressured lines, maybe a defective part, that causes the AC itself to work harder, but I'm only guessing...
@@PIRASMotorsport Yes mine does, i was just thinking of some symptoms my MR2 runs almost like normal with a standalone ecu and 436hp. It's just interesting watching about this 3 cylinder. Very informative. Not really changed from my car to this. Good oil and fuel. Water meth system may also be an option.
What oil cooler will get you below 100 degrees C?. You said under load, does that mean just normal driving around? On track I'm seeing much higher temps (130C) after many laps, in my GR Corolla but no oil cooler yet.
They tried to fix the issues, but didn’t mange. Pistons and rings are all that matter! Now they probably nailed it with the Gen.2 GRY and will use that setup also for Corolla…
I’m not planning to track my car , and was looking to fit an hks oil cooler, would you still recommend this,I’ve read that too cool oil temps are just as bad.
Adriano, do you use track or road kit of Hel? These are 10 rows Setrabs small and bigger, while as I see Lamspeed uses 13 row big one. I have the issue with Miata where I have 13 row setrab with mocal plate and in winter it hardy gets 70 degrees while normal driving. Maybe because mocal opens with 80 degrees while hel 92? Which would you suggest for gr yaris? I am collecting my gen 1 in a few days🙂
How does driving in a high gear damage the turbo? Or are you finding an issue with the waste gate? Which works harder and lower rpm to maintain correct boost? I’m starting to think this issue is a tuning issue not a Toyota issue.
No no, Toyota issue mate, occurs on stock cars too! Higher gear at low rpms, outside of the turbo’s range, puts a lot of strain on the turbo and leads to LSPI too. Wastegate issue is something new, not related to the LSPI problem
@@PIRASMotorsportI wonder if people are running correct fuel? So more of a detonation issue? Not really a turbo issue. Or is this due to the ring gap and burning oil. My old turbo charged Toyota did exactly that
@@PIRASMotorsport So how would you suggest to brake-in the new engine? I have thought to make first 1000 km between 2000-3000 rpm, next 500 km between 3000-4000 rpm and next 500 km between 4000-5000 rpm, and afterwards to change oil.
no mention of the piston rings being gapped wrongly? I thought you were going to come back with some details of what you had found regarding big ring gaps being installed from the factory?
I’m not saying they are gapped wrong: it may be due to the material they are using… I will make another detailed video about this, but I’m not ready with the content yet mate
Top Tip to stop breaking your GR yaris engine. STOP MODIFYING IT !! & STICK TO ITS SERVICE SCHEDULE WT OIL SPECIFIED. Im not suprised with such a puny 1.6cc engine and one cylinder less (3 only).. why do some ppl think they can modify to 400+bhp. Want a powerful car, top tip #2,.. BUY A PROPER CAR WT HIGH POWER. AMG, BMW M,.etc.
Has anyone heard of rattling Wastegates on G16E-GTS engines? Any info would be helpful at this stage! Also thinking of what to do with the turbo itself: stock, hybrid, or more?
My GR has the same problem. Even 88% wcd is necessary to keep the boost stable at 1.6bar at 5.5krpm. It was so annoying loud between 1krpm and 2krpm that i almost closed the wcd to 98%.
I've owned a GR Yaris for about 6 months now (new, 0 km) and for the first time in mid August, I've started hearing a rattle that I think might be wastegate related. The rattle only comes on in very specific conditions, at around 2.500-3.500 RPM in either 2nd or 3rd gear, when at around 20-25% throttle going slightly uphill. I've only been able to replicate it 2-3 times since first hearing it. The car doesnt feel different in any way, still pulls the same. Maybe its not wastegate related at all, who knows.
Sounds like the same problem, I need to investigate better
Yes, the rpm range is the same, when the turbo starts spooling up: seems you have lighter symptoms, but same problem
I have adapted the wcd without a PID control first at 1.2, 1.4 & 1.6bar relative. Spent a lot of hours on retrieving data. Eventually it was almost good or near perfect😂, added the PID action and an almost closed WG under 2000rpm resulting in no rattle. I'm happy to share some tables from the Syvecs in private.
i dont have a gr yaris but this man educate me so much about this car and made me love it even more really keep it up my man!! hopefully i get to experience one of these amazing cars!!!
Thankyou so much for the support man, please share with everyone ! ❤️
I can’t wait for your engine build on video. That would be amazing. Thanks for your research and content!
I’m thinking about it seriously now!
Good fuel quality is mutch more important than other oil viscosities that what the manufacturer prescribes, to prevent detonation. Apparently there is poor fuel quality in Italy, because here in Belgium not a single G16E-GTS has broken down due to poor pre-ignition, even though they run on 0w20😂
I agree, and I’m happy to hear that they are running strong in Belgium. Fact is that many deliberately just use the basic fuel quality…
I only run mine on Aral 102 RON fuel, hopefully that will prevent such an issue from arising
@DeFausti lucky man you get that beautiful super fuel!
@@DeFausti LSPI comes from improper oils. Even if you used a lower octane fuel with the correct oil, you should be okay.
The oil makers found that the detergent additives were too volatile, so new formulas were made to prevent LSPI, thus the SP, GF 6 oils we have today.
Hi Adriano! Top level videos as usual, I’ve been busy in these past 2 months but I always watch your videos and they are very informative 👍🏻 the last video was quite concerning but I wanted to thank you for saying things out loud, it’s good to understand possible failure points and trying to prevent them instead of facing the other way as nothing bad can happen. Your suggestion on the 5 points to keep the car safe are very useful. Also I hope that you manage to fix your wastegate valve as soon as possible. Lastly, congratulation for your big decision of moving to Gran Canaria! In bocca al lupo per tutto 💪🏻
Thankyou very much Vittorio!! You are always so kind, I really appreciate your support mate! Please find some time to come and visit us here in GC, I’m preparing some super cool experiences with cars!
That would be quite an experience 😀, if I ever happen to be there I would really like to do a rally stage or a b-road with you and your amazing car 👍🏻
@@vittorio_nichettiyes , that would be great! And in April WRC will also be here!!
Nice update, a lot of work including the move, I think the Rotheli racing sump is a great mod adding 1.2 litres oil capacity and it works with Lamspeed baffles is a no brainer.
Always said adding oil capacity is
in the sump is the way.
Lots of ideas on which oil to use , I'm honestly still unsure.
Oil pressure is another topic people are talking about any thoughts on this?
Regards Russ....🙏
@@Sprintcup1 I have installed the baffles, included a an external oil cooler (temp
Thanks for the oil info very much appreciated
Our pleasure mate!
Great video, many thanks!
Thank you too!
I am using ow20 signature series oil in my 2024 GR Corolla circuit edition. I changed break in oil at 1000 miles was planning on 5000 mile oil changes it is my daily driver
Hello Christopher,
I don’t know what oil that is, but please check the ratings and viscosity!
@@PIRASMotorsporthi talking probably abut Amsoil oil.
Not all oil coolers are created equal and investing in the largest surface area/efficient cooler you can afford the better, especially considering the average ambient temperatures the car will be exposed to. In my opinion don't waste time on small 10-13 row 300mm coolers and look at something similar to the HKS oil cooler size (surface area and volume).
Yes, it’s true: I chose the HEL Performance kit, that unites the Setrab cooler with the most beautifully made aluminium sandwich plate, that allows some flow also from cold, in order not to have pressure drops when it opens fully
..very informative..thank you
Very welcome mate, our pleasure! We would appreciate you sharing this content!
Ciao Adriano and thanks again for this qualitative and informative video: love all of them! Question please: what about a 5W30 API SP RC? Is RC equivalent to ISLAC GF-6? Thanks for advising and helping.
Yes, its perfect: RC= Research Conserving, to balance oil mixing with fuel without detonation
@@PIRASMotorsport Grazie !
Very welcome!
If you put an oil cooler it’s very important for daily driver to get oil to operating temp to avoid fuel delusion in your oil. Avoid short trips as much as you can. Here in Florida USA we have 93 octane which is 98 RON. I use 98 Ron with PEA additive (Polyetheramine) helps prevent LSPI. Shell VPower, Chevron, Sunoco and other top tier 93/91 octane fuel available.
Good: to avoid issues of heating up oil, you need to select an oil cooler like from HEL Performance, that have a sandwich plate that never closes completely, so you always have oil circulation also in the auxiliary cooling circuit while retaining quick heating process
@@PIRASMotorsport thermostatic oil cooler
@@mhk67091 yes, thermostatic sandwich plate BUT, with a thermostat that leaves the circuit 10-15% open all the time, then opens more with heat. In this way there are no large temperature differentials and pressure losses in the system.
Hi AJ thanks for your informative videos, will the octane boosters are an option? some places have have best combustible than others, so you have good or bad experience with them? Regards and have a nice day.
Good point mate: in my experience octane boosters always help, but the only one that has a big impact is Bardhal BSF
@@PIRASMotorsport Thanks mate!, this will help me a lot.
@@jorgeluismedinabegazo1043happy to help!
Such Great information.
the oil I was going to use is 5W30 API AP ISLAC GF-6A (NOT the GF - 6 you recommend) Is the 6A going to work? THX
Will GF-6 apply to every kind of viscosity grade?
Almost. There will be a split between 0W-16 viscosity grade engine oils and all other existing ILSAC viscosity grades. GF-6A will represent existing ILSAC viscosity grades and GF-6B will represent 0W-16 viscosity grade oils only.
So basically, 6A is what we are after mate!
@@PIRASMotorsport Thanks - much appreciated.
I think I will have to add an oil cooler - go to know...
I'm in the process of getting an Ecutek flash👍
Yes, cooler and hood vents possibly!
The only abnormal thing that happened to my GRY is the Aircondtioner. When the A/C is on, the engine rpm fluctuates.
My Malaysian Toyota dealer has changes the A/C compressor and did as many maintenance as they could. But they couldn’t identify the problem. They even consulted with Toyota Japan and they unfortunately come back with no solution. At the moment it doesn’t caused any unforeseen issues to the engine. Its a small annoying issue, but i hope the community can do enough complain to Toyota and hopefully they might take action.
I don't know about your Toyota but in my MR2 turbo sometimes the idle up sensor might be dirty.
Your engine rpm should go up right?
Hello Jackson, sorry to hear about this trouble! This is a strange one, yes... It could be that there is an obstruction somewhere in the A/C's pressured lines, maybe a defective part, that causes the AC itself to work harder, but I'm only guessing...
@@odin5188 It goes up slightly, but it should remain fairly stable
@@PIRASMotorsport Yes mine does, i was just thinking of some symptoms my MR2 runs almost like normal with a standalone ecu and 436hp.
It's just interesting watching about this 3 cylinder. Very informative. Not really changed from my car to this. Good oil and fuel.
Water meth system may also be an option.
@@odin5188 yes, it is quite basic, but people think they can stone the car and still service it at 10k km with 0W20 oil, so it must be stated!
What oil cooler will get you below 100 degrees C?. You said under load, does that mean just normal driving around? On track I'm seeing much higher temps (130C) after many laps, in my GR Corolla but no oil cooler yet.
That is normal mate: I use HEL Performance and our hood vents, basically never over 100
Thank you for your video! Is the airtec oil cooler good?
I actually don’t know what core they are using, if you ask them please let me know! The good oil cores are from Setrab, PWR and just a few more
The Corolla GR in US has different stock pistons and rings than Yaris GR in Europe. I’m not sure that matters.
They tried to fix the issues, but didn’t mange. Pistons and rings are all that matter! Now they probably nailed it with the Gen.2 GRY and will use that setup also for Corolla…
@@PIRASMotorsport does the 2023 or 2024 Corolla GR have the Gen 2 or only the 2025.
@mhk67091 apparently only 2025 has the improved version, but all of this needs official confirmation
I’m not planning to track my car , and was looking to fit an hks oil cooler, would you still recommend this,I’ve read that too cool oil temps are just as bad.
Don’t worry, if you plan on using it to its full potential, even on road, there will not be any too cool
Adriano, do you use track or road kit of Hel? These are 10 rows Setrabs small and bigger, while as I see Lamspeed uses 13 row big one. I have the issue with Miata where I have 13 row setrab with mocal plate and in winter it hardy gets 70 degrees while normal driving. Maybe because mocal opens with 80 degrees while hel 92? Which would you suggest for gr yaris? I am collecting my gen 1 in a few days🙂
I use and suggest the smaller radiator form Hel, after direct confrontation with them, as cooling is plenty and cold weather isn’t a problem
@@PIRASMotorsport Thanks!
How does driving in a high gear damage the turbo? Or are you finding an issue with the waste gate? Which works harder and lower rpm to maintain correct boost? I’m starting to think this issue is a tuning issue not a Toyota issue.
No no, Toyota issue mate, occurs on stock cars too!
Higher gear at low rpms, outside of the turbo’s range, puts a lot of strain on the turbo and leads to LSPI too.
Wastegate issue is something new, not related to the LSPI problem
@@PIRASMotorsportI wonder if people are running correct fuel? So more of a detonation issue? Not really a turbo issue. Or is this due to the ring gap and burning oil. My old turbo charged Toyota did exactly that
@@PIRASMotorsport What is the turbo range in GR Yaris?
@@maciejkula9471 From 2750 to 5800rpm is the sweet full boost window
@@PIRASMotorsport So how would you suggest to brake-in the new engine? I have thought to make first 1000 km between 2000-3000 rpm, next 500 km between 3000-4000 rpm and next 500 km between 4000-5000 rpm, and afterwards to change oil.
Are you still using motul 300v for engine oil?
Never used 300v: I was using Motul 8100 and now Pakelo was installed with the cams, but I will go back to a major brand.
How many have really blown? Out of the possibly 30000+ sold
More than 100
Honey my turbo broke, to bad but worry not, I just need to buy a bigger one 😂
😂😂😂😂 that is the idea!
Adriano what about 0w-40 API SN Plus oil ?
Nope mate, absolutely!
The base weight needs to be 5W, and it needs to be SP rating and G6A
Do your detailed recommendations apply to the GEN2 models?
Yes they do mate, for your engine's protection. Anyways, the Gen.2 is safer than Gen.1
Are you using Ecutek?
Yes mate: using EcuTek now! You can refer to the 350-500hp video to get more info on this software!
Mobil 1 0w40 c40 GT ✌🏻
I advise to change the 0W for 5W
no mention of the piston rings being gapped wrongly? I thought you were going to come back with some details of what you had found regarding big ring gaps being installed from the factory?
I’m not saying they are gapped wrong: it may be due to the material they are using… I will make another detailed video about this, but I’m not ready with the content yet mate
Top Tip to stop breaking your GR yaris engine.
STOP MODIFYING IT !! & STICK TO ITS SERVICE SCHEDULE WT OIL SPECIFIED.
Im not suprised with such a puny 1.6cc engine and one cylinder less (3 only).. why do some ppl think they can modify to 400+bhp.
Want a powerful car, top tip #2,.. BUY A PROPER CAR WT HIGH POWER. AMG, BMW M,.etc.
This comment isn't helpful mate...
just buy a fl5 civic type r. problem solved
I can’t justify the price of it, I would rather build my engine or get a Gen2, then go have fun with 4wd
Engine still hot on track
@@quocanhphanho8969yes, the civic still runs too hot
Just don't buy GR crap
Not crap at all, man