I spent my entire career in variable speed drives everything from DC, AC, Servos, Steppers and all from fractional to 750 Hp compressor horse power drive systems. I had my own business doing this and am recently retired. I never delt with anything in the marine industry as my focus was in industrial applications. And I have to say that your knowledge and expertise in what you talk about is spot on... I have been a follower for many years and your credo of "Never buy a couch". I wish I knew that some 40 years ago... That being said. I am very impressed. I live vicariously though the both of you and what you are doing. One thing I wish you would have mentioned but it's no big deal is that the larger motor would give you a little more on the regen side. I love your you tubes and always look forward to your episodes.. Take care, God Bless and think of us in your wake... Jim Aulgur and the boys... We will be sailing with you...
I've probably said this numerous times in early working videos, but I absolutely love and support your cleanliness and organization in your work environments. It makes a world of difference.
What a helpful and substantive speech. Others need a script and a teleprompter to present such a topic halfway fluently. It is a pleasure to listen to you!
I am thinking that maybe the mobile phone they were holding at times was the script :) but that does not take anything away from anything you wrote, I agree! Fantastic presentation, pleasant to listen to, pleasant to watch too! And very kind to share all of those insights!
Omg! You two are my heros. Absolutely transforming the sailing industry by quietly going out and breaking established norms, and having fun while doing it. And bringing the world along for the ride! I have been watching the sailing forum discussions completely transform around electric sailboat thinking, and Uma keeps being name dropped. You two are making a name for yourself in history.
The fact that you entertained me for 39 minutes, and I know less than nothing about this subject, is a testament to your talent!!! I have connected an inverter to my truck battery to plug in a coffee maker and an air mattress pump. That's it, that's all I know about this. I can not sleep on the ground and have coffee in the woods!!! Love you guys!
As an 81 year old with a diesel powered sailboat just two feet shorter than yours, there is no way the idea of electrifying my boat makes any sense. At my age I am not cruising long distances and I can probably count the years of my sailing life that remain on the fingers of one hand.. And yet, you had me entertained and interested for 39 minutes as well. That's a testament to your communication skills. Are you sure you studied architecture and not communications?
Just when you think you have a naked interior.....then there is more. You both have a lot of patience with all the construction, deconstruction, filming, producing, and camping etc. it's truly quite a feat of accomplishment and determination....very impressive!
We just finished the electric conversion of our Catalina 400. Your videos now and in the past really helped our decision making process. We went with Electric Yacht QT 30. Its a 30kW motor (liquid cooled) supported by 540 Amh lithium batteries. The cost kept me up at night for a while but wow, what a great ride. Quiet, smooth, no maintenance...its just awesome! We picked the much larger motor trying to future proof our system a bit...we should be able to take advantage of the battery tech improvement that you have mentioned. As you mentioned though, regen is a bit of the holy grail for us...our motor and current configuration doesn't regen for crap but we are working on it🙂 Forgot to mention...we kept our motor system and house system separate for the reasons that you have just mentioned. The simplicity of the separate systems has been nice and reduce the conversion pain. Thanks for your videos...they really inspire me. No, I won't be doing the Artic Ocean/Iceland runs but knowing the potential helps me set my own goals.
I have to admit it…I don’t remember but we will be out this weekend and I will recollect some numbers. We only use the motor to get in and out of the harbor and we generally run at 4kts.
Wow, 30kW is a huge system for the size of your boat! I'm curious what size cabling you have, because that is about 625 amp draw at WOT, and not even 150mm2/ AWG 0000 cable would carry that current.
Yeah, 30kW is big and I’m glad that we did it. The other week we got grounded in the channel. Just for grins I went full reverse. That big motor is yanked us out of there almost instantly. It was nuts!
I love how you're putting so much effort into the design of the remodel to correct issues. It's especially great that you take the time to explain it all. I really think boat manufacturers and the boating industry in general will benefit from your experiences.
Hey Guys, My wife and I are in our 80's. Your bending of you r knees getting into Uma`s tight spaces is incredible. Been following you for several years. Really enjoy your adventure!!
Dan, consider installing two recycle lines into the water tank, regardless of "insulation". If Uma sails into cold weather again, recirculation water from the head or from the salon, into the tank, will help keep your water fluid. It's not a system that would need activation all the time, but it could save the tank and lines from the expansion factor in "cold as ice" climates. Greg 🇨🇦
I’ve watched you two for years now. But I had fallen off. I come back, and you’re tearing your boat apart. It’s interesting cause I felt like I was there watching so much of it go in, to see it come out was a bit sad. But also very exciting BECAUSE the thing I always loved about y’all as opposed to other “sailor shows” is you guys got in there and showed everyone what and most importantly, HOW you were doing everything. And I also just love how creative you guys were. It inspired me to get my first boat, an Oday 27, which I spent a year fixing up and learning the lines during Covid. I got her for $200 and she was half full of water and sold her for a tidy profit to a guy who, when I asked why he wanted to buy a boat, he said, “Have you ever seen Sailing Uma?” I’m getting ready for boat #2. And I’m super pumped to see what you two imaginative sailor/architects do with Uma next. ❤
I love your sailing when you do sail, but I have to say, the technical analysis of when you rebuild your boat is by far my favourite. Your design skills combined with your technical knowledge is very inspiring. Looking forward to seeing how uma turns out this time round. ❤️
I am a jet fighter mechanic on our airplanes we started from the nose or bow and every foot aft we noted the location of every component, Also according to the clock we noted the direction from the center of the craft to each component. The first number on a wire is the distance from the front and the second number is the direction from the center line, 9 0'clock or 3 o'clock. When you are at the circuit breaker. The two numbers tell you the destination of the wire. Any place the wire can easily be accessed The numbers can be seen. You don't need a wiring diagram. Numbers can be purchased that are like a wedding ban that goes over the wire when you are wiring a boat. Large grey electrical PVC with oval access at the top lets you add or remove wires for the future.
You have no idea how much you are helping me right now.. I have an older Allied seawind 35 that I am completely refitting. I was thinking about relocating the panel and after this, I will definitely do that. Thank you so much..
Fantastic, decent & thorough explanation. Making this video probably the most valuable video for the tech guys or girls. As you mentioned that when the batteries die, that everything dies. Well on the big ships that have to comply with SOLAS regulations, GMDSS reg. (And much more reg.). It is always compulsory to have a 24V set for the VHF, MF/HF, Satcom, etc. So as you mentioned yourself, it is really something to keep in mind. Also, something I have not seen on Uma (or I missed it), please install an EPIRB outside free floating. If anything happens wherever in the world, the MRCC will know your distress and location these days under ten minutes. Thanks for your awesome videos, love your channel & Godspeed on your adventures.
I really like the videos travelling along thought processes and idea developments. The style you have, the sense for aesthetics, the mix of different content, the different projects - all that is so nice to watch and follow. Love you guys. Wish you the best!
Fundational! 😂 I’m glad you always point out - Uma’s a sailboat. She uses sails. That’s her primary function. Everything else is an additional convenience for safety and peace of mind. Good luck with the refit.
Super interesting video! I've asked about a quote from Oceanvolt a couple times now, but the problem is, my brother who's the co owner of the boat wants to retain the possibility of motoring for 160 miles in two days... So if we go for that, some kind of hybrid system would be necessary. And then I started calculating the CO2 emissions of manufacturing motors and batteries and realized that if I keep the old diesel in good condition, I use it so little anyway that I can go for 80 years or something before the CO2 emissions from using the diesel would reach the level of the CO2 emissions for an electric conversion... It's a sailboat, after all. Already a hybrid system, with a backup diesel engine.
That's a great mindset to have, and one we always share. If you have something that works. Keep it. Love it. Repair it. It's almost always better to fix what you have that to buy something new.
Some people are never satisfied. You post a video on your camper; people complain that it's not a boat video. You post a boat video; people complain that it's not a sailing video. Aughh. Just keep on doing what you're doing and never forget that the first people to complain are usually the last people to offer to help. Already looking forward to the next adventure.
Thank you, that is really helpful, I've been considering an electric conversion on my Beneteau 305 for a while. Some of the real world comparisons were great food for thought, impressed how much you guys achieved with early technology. Best of luck with the rest of the project, love the Land Rover too 😀
You both are just incredible. I have been watching your videos since you began posting. You have come a very long way and lots of energy to keep going.
As a life long electronic and electrical guy I was very impressed by your explanation of your system and future plans. Clearly a lot of thought, research and testing has brought you to this point. I'd definitely go with the small 12v battery system as you described it. Being on a boat is the ultimate in being on your own. On another note you mentioned your "sticky" fibreglass in the locker. You probably know that either painting it with air dry resin, or a coat of poly vinyl alcohol (PVA) will cure the old resin and get rid of the stickiness. Good luck with your on going adventure. Well done!!
Thanks, great video. You guys inspired us to go all electric. We went with 2 Torqeedo motors, 20kw of batteries, and 2.2kw of solar charging. 7 months in and it’s working out wonderfully. We charge our 12v house with a 20a dc to dc from the motors 48v bank. Also, works great!
Love the screen concept as I have just used a 7 by 5 metre white tarpaulin as a temporary screen, for a 1915 vintage cinema that we are re-opening after a 40 year halt in operations, as we are on a tight budget until we can raise the necessary amount to get an expensive proper screen. We have already been able to source a second hand projector and have had a surround sound system donated, so all up we have spent less than $1000 so far. I have loved watching your videos for the past few years and look forward to many more.
Outstanding, understand better the layering Uma has gone thru over the years. Looking forward to more vids on where the improvements are coming from and why!
Dan and Kika, we really enjoyed your video and it is absolutely spot on. We are following your channel from the beginning and you are our inspiration for going electric as well, for which we are very gratefull. Our Jeanneau 30 sailboat has a 7.5kW WW motor, 10.5kWh 48V LiFEPO4 (would like to have 15kWh) and induction stove. This setup works very well., and we are sailing in the Netherlands. We also run a DC-DC converter for the 12V systems, but with a separate 12V/60Ah LiFEPO4 battery as an emergency/backup battery. This battery is normally only connected to the bilge pump, but can be connected with a simple switch to the 12V supply in case the 48V system is switched off or has failed. We need to charge this battery separate and heavy loads tops out the converter which is not ideal, so perhaps your new system will also end up in our boat in the future.
Thanks for your informative tips. I research hundreds of hours while designing the system for my boat. Now after using it for 6 months I now see things that could have been done better.
Bought a 1967 LeComte 33 with an Atomic 4. Watched your conversion a few years ago and got excited. I have been driving a Tesla since 2013 so I’m a convert and remain one. This winter removing A4 and installing an OceanVolt system. Rick at OceanVolt says hi. Lucky to have him doing conversion work. We discussed your work. Looking forward to having this done and ready for 2024 season. Thanks guys for your leadership!
Awesome info and so entertaining. Kika miming “chalk me up” as she climbed out of the cabin was a classic bit and had me in stitches. Xoxo and best success going forward.
This presentation gave me a lot to think about. I am presently an all electric van owner using it for remodeling and really want a bit more “juice” to power everything. Adding solar and lithium makes sense and you started me thinking of the possibilities. Thanks and enjoy the BVI’s next week even though it is a catamaran with a diesel engine.
Amazing episode! I don't have any boat or anything but I'm electronics engineer and watching how much knowledge you gained and the way you present it, is just great!💪 Just a small notice: You might be a bit too optimistic about lifecycle of a lithium batteries 😉
Kika and Dan hi from Calgary. I've had the pleasure of following Sailing Uma since before day one. One thing the industry as a whole has failed to acknowledge is that Uma One is the very first all electric propulsion mono cruising boat out there. Makes this rebuild project make so much sense now with all the water that's passed under your hull. From a lot of extreme locations with very short or zero day light hours, you guys know what you are speaking of. While everyone else was talking, researching and lab bench testing you were out there doing it for real collecting real on the water information. Combine your on the water success with some of the power industry improvements UMA Two will be the all electric drive/living yacht on the water to catch up too. No doubt both of you will bring your architectural degrees to the overall design concept and finishes, watch out IKEA and Home Depot 😄 Any consideration given to investing the time, talent and capital into a slightly larger hull to work with?. nothing nuts 8' max maybe. I know making it all work within the constraints of Uma one will be a tremendous success for both of you. Whatever you choose to do I'm excited for you can't wait to watch it all come together. Great choice to acquire the truck as living quarters during the renovation. Always nice to not eat,sleep and recreate in the middle of your renovation. Almost always the first suggestion I'd provide to my clients "do yourselves a favor rent a corporate apartment for 6 to 12 months and charge the cost to financing your project you won't regret a single dollar of it. Wishing you the very best going forward".
I do not know if I have said this to you two, but if I have bear with me. There is a great ploy I learned for reinforcing a hull internally, especially in the way of mast steps, hull sides near the collision potential areas close to and under the waterline, and it is such a simple ploy I am astonished no one else seems to have come up with it. I use a well known structure proven in aircraft--the D-Spar. Simply, one pulls out ones vessel, checks the hull lines according to the plans, and adds external forces such as stacked sand bags to get the hull sides back where they were originally. Once the hull is level and symmetrical, the next steps require the internal sand blasting of the hull to remove any finish in any areas to be reinforced. In my case all of the underwater areas and up and across the deck shelf, as well as the underside of the deck. Now one gets the cloth one intends to add to the hull, and begins at the bow. One layer of triaxial is usually more than enough, and it has to be fitted closely. Because it is not very flexible, one may need to fill any tight curves using a mixture of cotton or hemp fibre and epoxy resin plus a bit of Cabosil, to radius any corners without losing strength. One can then, if one wishes, put a length of woven rovings over these areas for even greater strength. I only ever use epoxy resins for upgrading or repairing polyester boats. Two main reasons, better adhesion, and variations in cure speed by using different hardeners and resins. Epoxy releases fumes, and one requires a supplied air system (a filter is not good enough) and a full protective suit. There is no such thing as a safe epoxy, but some are safer than are others. Now--assuming one has gone through the internal parts of the hull requiring an additional layer of glass, where I am to replace any frames, or add cant frames, or simply to use geodesic reinforcements between one frame and another, or as strengthens to the frames themselves, I use a base layer of glass matt, say twenty centimetres for a small beam, and roll it into place using a slow cure resin. On top of this I place PVC pipe which has been flamed to slightly oxidise the surface, then sawn in half lengthwise to provide two lengths of curved PVC. These can be end cut to fit into any areas as required. Where the edges of the PVC meet the base glass layer, a popsicle stick as a trowel and some phenolic micro-balloons and epoxy putty mix makes a nice radius for the covering layers of glass, Another, say, 20 cm of glass tape is put over the PVC so that it is slightly inboards of the base layer, covers the PVC, and that is about it--maybe just a little extra, The next layer of tape begins inwards from the other edge of the base and goes over the PVC from the opposite direction, and the final layer of tape is rolled exactly over the PVC with equal amounts on each side and onto the base. I use different sizes of PVC depending on the strength required, one uses tapes cut to requirements and as many layers as is deemed necessary. PVC can be bent in situ over the cured base layer using 5-Minute Araldite while one holds it, or using ratchet clamps in reverse as jacks to hold it. I love this in-situ beam construction technique because not only is it strong, easy to use and cheap, it also allows wiring to be run through the interior of the new spar, and thence be used as required. In my case for bilge pumps and the charging of remote batteries and lighting. Before using it yourself, please make some test beams and have them tested, or test them yourselves. Only then will you decide if these comparatively unobtrusive beams (especially if geodesic) are safe, adequate or even suitable for your needs. For making web frames, the process is similar, but instead of PVC sawn pipe, I use CCA treated wood or better still, stacked laminates of PVC closed cell foam. After glassing, sandwich panels or heavy plywood bulkheads are through bolted and also glassed to these frames. When such a frame encircles the entire hull, it can serve as keel support, chain plate support, as well as deck beam and mast pillar support.
Guys thanks for the tons of good information concerning lithium power, electric motor options, and general planning and designing the lay out of ones boat for ease of sufficient access. All the Very Best! Jim Rodgers
Great (and very educational) unmissable content. Take your time guys, have confidence in yourselves (we have) and do this right. You are (and have been) trail blazers for the electric boat revolution. God bless and thanks again 👍👏👏👏.
I assume you are being sponsored by Oceanvolt. Reason i am saying this is their are other manufacturers with proven regen performance. We own a Windelo catamaran and have done two Atlantic crossings with no diesel used to recharge the batteries while taking hot showers every night. (Meaning no cut back on confort) Regarding your ratio of dividing by 4, ours is 2 so not sure about the 4. All the other stuff you talked about, we agree with.What is important about a genset in a hybrid system is to have a 48v genset (not common) so if your batteries trip say on temperature, the genset can drive the motor direct while bypassing the batteries. Water cooled motor and controller is important as you said to have a robust system.
Yup! i'm all electric also, and have a lifepo4 100aH 12v buffer battery set at 13.2V (or roughly 70%) from the dc to dc converters, which is perfect for longevity, and, if my 48v house bank goes down i have 70aH @ 12v of battery time to figure my shit out. Works great, and is also helpful for those higher 12v loads (electric winch ect). Also, You're one of a select few that have consistently held my interest from the beginning. Love your works guys.
Both of you being technically savvy (i.e., educated) has resulted in great videos where each contributes to the overall theme of the video as well as making for interesting discussion.
Hi guys, wow when you said you’re gonna give Uma a refit, you certainly are taking everything out I’m bringing only new in. Keep up the good work guys. Love and appreciate you both, Cliff from Logan City Queensland Australia 🇦🇺🧑🏾🦽
love your series. Have been servicing boats for over 25years and just had a flashback when I saw the steering wire sheaves when you were sitting below the cockpit: I understand that Uma is a bit older. Have you ever changed the stainless steering chain? You are vivid sailours and while sailing under harsh conditions, these tend to break, specially when 10 years or older. I have had a total of 5 chains broken in the Caribbean, some during races, some during delivery trips... you cannot see if a SS chain is going to fail, unless it already started to give. SS gets brittle over time, specially when stamped during manufacturing, which is why you should change your rigging every 10 odd years as well. Might be well worth considering if you have not yet done so
We haven’t changed it yet. Probably a good idea. But also the helm is only one of three ways we have to steer. So it would be inconvenient, but not catastrophic if it broke.
Hi Guys, first thank you guys for the shared info on the electric motor conversion. Recently I had to repair my 40hp diesel which cost me 5k. At first I looked into going electric but found very little response from manufactures (believe it or not) here in Ft Lauderdale, Fla. I think this industry is picking up and hope to see grater improvement soon. Can't wait to see the completed results, please keep in mind to post performance test results of the electric motor. Thank You
It's not just the electric stuff, the marine industry as a whole is TERRIBLE and picking up the phone or responding to inquiries. It's something we deal with daily. We can't believe most marine companies are still in business. Maybe they get all their money from B2B and can't be bothered with us end users.
I converted in 2014. 8hp YSB8 Yanmar became a 5.5kw ElectroProp system. Basically a typical Motenergy brushless motor (air cooled) with a Sevcon gen4 controller (110A continuous). I put together a 100ah pack of lithium iron phosphate cells for energy storage and a 1500W charger that the BMS could interrupt on over-voltage detection. It gave me basic range of about 10nm at 4kts. Wind and chop could cut that down pretty quick though. I also had a 2000w portable generator for range extension. That could run my charger at 23A as long as I had gas for it. Fast forward to 2022 and we decided to upsize the battery from 5 to 15kwh. Prices and energy density have certainly come down. My new 15kwh pack weighs only double what my 5kwh pack weighed. And is only about twice the volume. The new battery talks to my Victron stuff and can control the charging. I also opted to relocate the battery from behind the motor under the cockpit to a custom rack I built into the main saloon table. The new battery is 100kg, located above the keel bolts. The frame is built from 8020 aluminum extrusion. It’s designed to let me slide the battery modules in and remove them easily for the winter, since we get some very cold temperatures in the winter that could freeze the electrolyte and permanently damage the cells.
I’d love to chat with you guys over some sundowners about what I’ve done for my onboard energy storage. I built my own battery systems using EVE LF304K cells. A 16S 15kwh for the propulsion and a 4S 4kwh for the house loads. My thinking was to use the same cells in both so that should a cell go bad in my propulsion bank, i can scavenge from my house bank, and run house loads from a dc converter until replacements can be arranged. I normally charge at dock but I only have enough room about 200W of solar, which charges the 12v. The mppt controller can also send power to a dump load which is a 12-48 boost converter to send any excess solar to the 48v. I also have spare mppt that can use the 48v as a PV input and charge the 12v if needed. So energy can be sent wherever it’s needed. I think the energy management aspect is the most important in a conversion.
Wanted to share my experience running victron systems with 48v lifepo4 house bank with the 12v side. First off i still had a diesel engine and genset so i did have one 12v agm battery for starting. For my 12v charging i had the victron 20a 48/12 dc-dc converter but also had their 20a ip67 ac to dc battery charger. The efficiency (according to specs) between the dc-dc and the dc-ac then ac-dc end up being within 1% of eachother since their 48v inverters are so efficient. I set the dc-dc converter to .1v below float voltage and just left them both connected. Liked the redundancy and with the agm never had an issue with heavier 12v loads like my electric heads or windlass. I would definitely keep a small 12v agm battery in a full electric boat set up, with the battery charger and ir dc-dc converter always hooked up it will rarely cycle and last for a very long time
For your momentary LED light dimming issue when activating motors or other heavy electrical loads, you may want to purchase a few DC Super Capacitors and install them next to your main break(s) that supply the power to your LED's and on the breakers that supply power to your Nav Gear. The capacitors stay charged and will keep the voltage/current from dropping when you activate a large electrical load on the 12 VDC system. I designed and built a small system for my Energy Management & Home Automation system (5VDC) to maintain a constant voltage for the SBC's while the power is switched automatically from Solar power to Grid transformer power and back when needed. The voltage never drops while the supply voltage is in the process of switching. Keeps the SBC's from constantly rebooting the little computers are much happier. Great Video!
There are potential problems using super capacitors this way. - the discharge current in case of a short could exceed the capacity of the wiring between the capacitor and the short. - when initially charging the capacitor, it functions as a perfect short cirquit. The charging cirquit and the wiring must be able to handle that. - the voltage out will decrease exponentially when the feed cuts out, potentially meaning a risk for brownouts.
Great video! About the battery life. Lithium Ion batteries are rated for 300-500 cycles. BattleBorn and others are typically Lithium Iron Phosphate, which are rated for 3,000 - 5,000 cycles. Plus Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries don’t pose the fire risk that Lithium ion batteries have.
Great episode, hope you guys get a consulting gig on electrical systems with your sailboat, you have the best knowledge, living it or what we called back in the day, hard knocks. A few weep holes in those battery boxes would work wonders, no matter where they go in the future. Would have loved to be the guy walking by your boat and hearing a full blown conversation coming from the cockpit locker :)
This was great. You pretty much confirmed my thoughts of electric propulsion and things around it. For my boat, I’m currently leaning to 2-4 big and separate 48v banks with individual BMS’s in them. If one fails there’s still another bank to use. And all this without any unnecessary complications. Bigger prismatic cells can offer the currents needed for propulsion and it much easier to keep them in balance that way. IMO there’s not any point to make battery bank for usage like this from 12V individual batteries with separate BMS’s. Keep it up!
Thank you so much for all your experiences put together of whats and whats not with all the do and don't do information that is well needed out there in the wide expance on the blue. Looking forward for more and more of very educating times to come with you guys
Great video summarizing some of the important considerations for your rebuild based on 10 yrs lessons learned. Everything will make more sense as each phase of the rebuild gets completed.
Please "hear" me out: While fully being committed to the fundamental fact, that a human being, be it female, or male, or any identities on the scale have much, much more to them than just being eyecandies to someone, you guys are truly are eyecandies. - your personalities are charming - your chemistry is just overwhelmingly adorable, and inspiring - your way of life, your mentality to it, and towards one another is just pure bliss - and despite I do identify as a straight man, and my wife is the pinnacle of everything in life I ever was hoping to find in someone, Kika you are just as lovely to listen to, as to watch, and Dan, bro, you are just the perfect compliment to her, and vice versa. Talented, entertaining, humorous, compiled, gathered, silly when is due, and sharp as a razor when needed. Very inspiring, how you live, how you live together, and how you sail in life together. So to come back to my point: While you guys are hot as an overheating undersized electric motor chugging along on 200% capacity all day long, you do prove that a true person, and a true couple have much much more to offer than just looks.❤
I have enjoyed watching and learning from your very early days. I hope this synopsis of your hard won wisdom is accurate for someone NOT interested in regen using a 2500# trailer sailer: For electric motors, rule-of-thumb #1: 1HP (=750W) for every 1500 lbs of displacement :: [ 2500 lbs / 1500 lbs ] x 750W = 1250 W = 1.25 kW Rule-of-thumb #2: Required electric motor ≈ petrol engine HP divided by four Electric motor kW ≈ 6-8 HP / 4 ≈ 1.5 - 2.0 kW NOTE1: Overheating is a big concern for electric propulsion, which can be mitigated by water cooling (inboard or outboard) and purchasing an oversized motor which can be run continuously at a lower percentage of max power. NOTE 2: A 48V DC motor is a good compromise between efficiency and safety I would love it if you would do a video on prop selection. Methinks a slow turning, high diameter, low pitch prop with 3-4 blades is best for 3-5 knot cruising speed while taking advantage of the low end torque of an electric motor. I agree with your sentiment that performance numbers from most motor vendors are inaccurate and wildly optimistic.
Prop selection is easy. If you want good regen, you need a servo prop to adjust the the pitch to all 4 sailing conditions. If you don't care about regen. Then you can pick just about any prop for your motor speed and RPM.
Awesome content guys!! simplified, Innovative & realistic approach to a awesome project!! I've been watching since the beginning and wondered years ago if we would see Uma renovated!
Great video. Uma at its best. talking & explaining technology . I have never listened to each word on a video like this. This is one of the best uma video. thanks a lot. Good Job !
Just after I installed my present batteries into my wheelchair, Victron came out with an upgraded LiFePo4 battery system that includes built in BMS per battery and a Battery protect system that is bluetooth programmable with alarms capability which will cut the loads to the motor but not prevent charging. In your case for critical loads like communications and autopilot, I'd recommend tapping the batteries rather than a lot of DC/DC Converters. Determine how much power is needed for the critical load and then take a 12v or 24v feed directly off 2 or 4 or 8 batteries at 12v just to feed those loads. Your BMS will balance all the cells regardless of how you pull power. But you have the battle borns there already, so use some of those for the hotel loads and for emergency power / communications, radar and Autopilot. I have a battery protect on my batteries which is programmable to .1 of a volt, and an alarm relay so that once the batteries get to a point in the discharge cycle I am alerted it's time to call a taxi or get out and push well before my batteries drop below 3.1v per cell. Go talk to Victron Marine and get their input.
Very interested in how you got to your divide hp by 4 to get the kw you need to go different speeds. My boat originally had 2 x 10hp diesels which I've replaced with 2 x 6kw electrics. Unfortunately i never used it with the diesels, so it's hard to compare, but i seen to get around hull speed with 7kw combined on both motors. Interestingly i find that running two motors gives more efficiency than one motor with twice the power. Another bonus is that I'm on a small catamaran which means loads of space for solar. I've got 3200w on a 30 foot boat!
I have always admired the two of you and your chemistry. Even more impressed by your team work. Kika hats off to you! My wife would have made me take those batteries out by myself or hired help. Keep up the awesome work, and I look forward to the finished project. By the way, I love the new branding. The DK incorporated in one really reflects the two of you perfectly. Love ya!!
I installed an Electric Yatch system for my conversion from a dying atomic 4. Luckily, I have an electric power included in my slip/dock fees, so I dont worry about regeneration. Im on a relatively small to medium size lake, so "motoring" long distances isn't a significant issue. I have a 12" folding Max Prop installed, so I have reduced drag during sailing operations verses a 3 or 2 blade fixed prop. So far, my experience with my electric motor has been outstanding! I can motor over 20 miles at 3 to 4 knts, which is more than enough to get me back to the dock without worrying about running out of battery power. My biggest challenge was finding a good location to install the 400amp Lithium battery bank. Looking back, I could have gotten by with a 200AMP battery bank for my use. The instant access to power and almost no noise has been something that everyone notices as soon as I use the motor. So my total investment in the electric motor system was almost $10k. This includes installing all the "other" pieces parts that aren't listed as what is needed to create a safe electric motor system. Appropriate gauge wiring, lugs, connectors, master power distribution switches & panels. While some people may not need to use / install new wiring, I found that a 50 year old boat needed to get modern wiring for the 12v and 48v system.
Your comment about instant access to power and almost no noise is the same for us. We really love our Electric Yacht system. I like the lack of maintenance too...we have drastically reduced the number of worry about items on our boat!
Even a small Daysailor has many more options for electric in the last few years. I started with a 12-volt electric Trolling motor after I had a gasoline spill in the boat. Not enough "thrust". So I got a 36-volt trolling motor with 3 35-ah AGM batteries. (Torqueedo was just hitting the market back then). Those batteries were heavy and needed to be carried ashore in the dingy for charging. I just use the motor on and off the mooring or dock so I found a smaller AGM for a mobility scooter that was really too small for peak load. I burned two of those up over a few years. Then that one was unavailable so I ganged up 3 12 volt AGM at 12ah I think. Worked for a while. I'd still lug the big 35-ah pack if I thought I needed more range. Then I tried a new 12-volt trolling motor with more thrust than my original using a lithium 60-ah battery rated for a lot of current. I also used a 10-watt solar panel for charging. the solar worked great. After 2 years the thrust was really still not what I needed. So I bought a new 36-volt 60-ah battery and went back to the 36-volt trolling. Series 3 12-volt 10-watt solar panels to charge it. Really an ideal setup except I think the solar peak voltage burned out my small cheap 36 to 12-volt power for the bilge pump and 2 lights. The solar peaks at 18 volts each so 54 volts goes over spec. I need to replace with it a 48 to 12 power supply that has a wide enough band to go from 30 to 60 volts on the high side. Really about the same cost (under $30) so it was just bad engineering on my part. But If I was starting from scratch there are "electric outboards" available today which would be the way to go. The ability of a relatively small solar panel to keep up with the occasional short use of the motor over the season is a game changer. Nothing to haul out in the dingy, and the motor runs immediately every time with just a twist of the throttle.
Another UA-cam channel, Emily and Clarks Adventure, has some really good videos about having lead and lithium. Clark is an electrical engineer and created a bank management system that lets you safely combine lead and lithium. I like that he fully explains what it does and how it works, totally upfront and no BS. He doesn't make unsupported claims and really just explains what situations it is good for and doesn't give any hard sell. The exact situation you ran in to is one of the main reasons for it. Also if you do have a diesel engine with high output alternator or a gen set and you are charging your lithium and suddenly the BMS turns off the batteries you can blow out the diodes in your alternator. Also lately he's been disassembling cheap LiFePo4 and testing them and rating them.
Around 32=02 bleedy thumb . ok one cannot create an omelet without cracking eggs ..OPTISANA fabric injury plasters from LIDL are a great GO TO .. small injury must go to list.this video is awesome .So much quality knowledge and hands on advice . being able to move forward in time 10 years is a wonderful opportunity . for you .
Great video as usual! Regarding the issue of LFP batteries shutting down suddenly despite SoC being is far above any critically low levels is related to lack of calibration. The SoC that is shown is an estimation, and even with the best BMSs, if the battery has been discharging and charging for example between 30% and 90% for a long time, i.e. many ups and downs, the SoC estimation becomes less accurate. Therefore, at some point, the voltage drops steeply and the BMS shuts the battery off. To overcome this problem, one should charge the battery to 100% from time to time, ideally in every cycle. Tesla for example recommends that for its cars with LFP batteries.
48V - i totally agree! On my wish list are native 48V refrigerators, washing machines, … Would be much more efficient than converting down to 12V or use 230V sinus inverters.
Love your videos. It's so great seeing you two cuddling up while you're making this video. True love is very hard to find and it's obvious you two have found it. I'm still trying to talk my wife into getting out there. We've got the true love thing down...I'm just hoping she'll have the same nomadic ocean home living desire I think I'll have.
Hi,a very well structured and informative episode that was explained in a clear and precise manner It was thoroughly enjoyable and I am looking forward to future episodes as the refit proceeds.Thank you,cheers Roly 🇬🇧.
Enjoyd the video as usual. To me another big advantage to chose for 48V is that you can run thinner cabling for the heavy users. Less copper, less money and weight.
Very informative. Thank you. Regarding the battery, I would recommend to use a dedicated 48V battery with only one BMS and maybe a good balancer. This will reduce your problems to a big extended. Cant wait to see things being re-built.
Hi Guys, really enjoy your videos - also caught you on the sailing podcast where you spoke about your preference for a faster boat over a heavier boat for your style of sailing - all extremely interesting. It was great to just listen as the presenter picked your brain. One of the many interesting points you made was that your weather forecasting equipment is your most important safety piece of kit on the boat. I was wondering if you would do a video on how you guys predict winds etc do you rely on certain apps or are you looking at base data like synoptic charts and interpreting those ? I feel like you guys would have tons of valuable knowledge to share with us and it might be a deep vein of content for your channel? Just a thought - thanks for all the videos !! Did someone say aeroplane ??????
You have the old Edson sheaves, check them for play, the new one from Edson has a pin over the sheaves that keeps the wires from jumping out of the sheaves and jamming the sheaves and is of a much better construction. Call them for a price.
Hi guys - are you forgetting E-propulsion Pod motors? They have 1-6kw motors with super easy install, all very focused on regent as well with up to 1040 watts (at 10knlts, and 500 watts at 7 knots). Great video though :)
Running wire in conduit is awesome! I always leave a string in each conduit in the event you need to run the odd wire in the future. Yeah yeah; you probably already know that LOL !
If you use a 48 VDC system to drive the motor, windlass and other major loads that you can buy in 48 VDC (AC or reefer?), you can use a DC to DC like you have been doing and float a 100 amp or 200 amp Lithium battery on the 12 VDC side to run the small loads so that you can run navigation, radio and other loads if the 48 VDC system goes down. That will keep you safe. If that 12 VDC battery is the same as the ones in the 48 VDC system, if a battery goes bad you have a spare you could swap in. Can you build the 48 Volt side so that if the battery goes down the Solar, and regen will still charge the 12 Volt side through the converter? Could you build the 48 Volt side with a combiner switch (off, port, stbd, both) where you are normally in both? You can do all of that. How expensive are you willing to go? Do you want that much complication?
Will you reuse much of the wire you have removed or not? I imagine much of the wire might not match your color coding plans and the new requirements for distance and load, but I guess I am wondering if much of that old wire should be installed and used for another 30+ years if it does otherwise fit your plans.
Dan and Kika, did I miss the list of Battery Manufacturers that you trusted in the comments or description? I am super interested in which Manufacturers you trust. Thanks
Question; What did you do with all that wire you ripped out of the boat? Question; Are you planning a "Wiring Harness" that you can put together off the ship to make things possibly easier for installation? Question; You mentioned "CONDUIT" that future wires will travel through, are you diagraming that out before you put it into the build phase? Love what you guys do ON THE BOAT, all that other stuff not so much care for. Keep up the hard work.
A: Keeping the good stuff to re-use. Tossing/ recycle the old A: No, not really. It's easier just to run the new wires individually since we're not mass producing it. A: Yes, we plan everything in advance.
Outstanding. I have never thought having electrics potentially exposed to the elements is a good idea. Similarly, all that ballast being put to good use, rather than being a handicap, seems extremely sensible. Plenty of additional batteries for the truck now as well 🙂
PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE do your selves a favor and get a dust collector for your sanders before you work on the cockpit lockers. Love watching you and I can’t wait to see Uma 2.0!!!
Nice to see you had liquid cooling for the batteries... :) This was a really informative video. Lots to consider! I agree that 48v should be the standard. Lots of reasons to do it :) Only slight downside is you will still likely need 24/12v step down for some stuff. I think having an emergency set of power/battery bank to run things like Radio/AIS/Other safety equipment is the way to go. (Often they will all be 12v, so the battery setup doesn't need to be as hefty) Looking forward to see what decisions you make!
Love you guys this episode has a ton of knowledge in just a short period of time thank you to sharing your experience about batteries and electric motors it was awesome to learn from you guys.
Those Battleborns are great in a 12 volt system, but specifically they are not supposed to be used in 48 volt systems because the internal BMS can only see what is going on in that battery, not the entire bank, the lack of a CANBUS on them means that when one shuts down the others immediately overcharge and then shut down. It can actually shock and destroy the cells. The reason for this is when you have batteries in series to raise the voltage, the first battery in the chain experiences the greatest draw, thus it is the first to discharge, first to recharge, when you get into an extended high load situation like motoring, that battery can overheat causing it to shut down. This is why at times your boat would just straight shut down on you. Also when you put the boat back together, I would strongly recommend building bulkheads that isolate your cockpit lockers from the rest of the boat and then have just a small weep hole to allow water to drain, this is so if you get knocked down and the locker comes open water cannot quickly rush into the boat flooding and sinking her.
The new thing in batteries is Lithium Iron. It’s heavier than lithium ion, and doesnt have the same discharge rate, however they are completely happy being both completely full as well as completely empty. The really big benefit is that they aren’t flammable. Just bought you folks should know. Also on the solar panels: look into bi-facial panels. Very cool and can produce up to 70% of the rated output on the back of the panel. They have a clear back sheet so they let some light through.
I think thats what they were referring to when mentioning "these days there are lots of different LiIon batteries out there" :) the battle borns they are removing now were already LiFePo 12V blocks
I can remove 1 of my battery banks easy and still use the other 3 for checking them or whatever reason is needed. That is another reason why connecting each bank to a bus bar with a cutoff switch is huge. I turn off BMS then flip a breaker to isolate each battery bank. Using AGM and Lifep04 cells together only is needed when using wind generators with solar. AGM is not needed if you do not have a hybrid setup.
I recommend wrapping your wrenches in electrical tape to minimize electrical short if it were to be dropped. Looking forward to the whole rebuilt, don't forget the chalkboard.
HI Dan and Kika, nice Video as always, thanks possible For the rest, I tend to agree, get yourselves some real good batteries, preferably certified, and are at least ip65 that will not let you down... if you can, better think about how to evacuate thermal runaway gases when you install the batteries, not after. Regen is a issue for a lot of compagnies, not for Transfluid (Bellmarine) or Oceanvolt. and complete packages are a must. Note that a good sized propeller is key to a good regen (that is also possible with folding props :)) Best of luck with UMA .
I spent my entire career in variable speed drives everything from DC, AC, Servos, Steppers and all from fractional to 750 Hp compressor horse power drive systems. I had my own business doing this and am recently retired. I never delt with anything in the marine industry as my focus was in industrial applications. And I have to say that your knowledge and expertise in what you talk about is spot on... I have been a follower for many years and your credo of "Never buy a couch". I wish I knew that some 40 years ago... That being said. I am very impressed. I live vicariously though the both of you and what you are doing. One thing I wish you would have mentioned but it's no big deal is that the larger motor would give you a little more on the regen side. I love your you tubes and always look forward to your episodes.. Take care, God Bless and think of us in your wake... Jim Aulgur and the boys... We will be sailing with you...
I've probably said this numerous times in early working videos, but I absolutely love and support your cleanliness and organization in your work environments. It makes a world of difference.
What a helpful and substantive speech. Others need a script and a teleprompter to present such a topic halfway fluently. It is a pleasure to listen to you!
I am thinking that maybe the mobile phone they were holding at times was the script :) but that does not take anything away from anything you wrote, I agree! Fantastic presentation, pleasant to listen to, pleasant to watch too! And very kind to share all of those insights!
Omg! You two are my heros. Absolutely transforming the sailing industry by quietly going out and breaking established norms, and having fun while doing it. And bringing the world along for the ride! I have been watching the sailing forum discussions completely transform around electric sailboat thinking, and Uma keeps being name dropped. You two are making a name for yourself in history.
The fact that you entertained me for 39 minutes, and I know less than nothing about this subject, is a testament to your talent!!! I have connected an inverter to my truck battery to plug in a coffee maker and an air mattress pump. That's it, that's all I know about this. I can not sleep on the ground and have coffee in the woods!!! Love you guys!
As an 81 year old with a diesel powered sailboat just two feet shorter than yours, there is no way the idea of electrifying my boat makes any sense. At my age I am not cruising long distances and I can probably count the years of my sailing life that remain on the fingers of one hand.. And yet, you had me entertained and interested for 39 minutes as well. That's a testament to your communication skills. Are you sure you studied architecture and not communications?
Just when you think you have a naked interior.....then there is more. You both have a lot of patience with all the construction, deconstruction, filming, producing, and camping etc. it's truly quite a feat of accomplishment and determination....very impressive!
We just finished the electric conversion of our Catalina 400. Your videos now and in the past really helped our decision making process. We went with Electric Yacht QT 30. Its a 30kW motor (liquid cooled) supported by 540 Amh lithium batteries. The cost kept me up at night for a while but wow, what a great ride. Quiet, smooth, no maintenance...its just awesome! We picked the much larger motor trying to future proof our system a bit...we should be able to take advantage of the battery tech improvement that you have mentioned. As you mentioned though, regen is a bit of the holy grail for us...our motor and current configuration doesn't regen for crap but we are working on it🙂
Forgot to mention...we kept our motor system and house system separate for the reasons that you have just mentioned. The simplicity of the separate systems has been nice and reduce the conversion pain.
Thanks for your videos...they really inspire me. No, I won't be doing the Artic Ocean/Iceland runs but knowing the potential helps me set my own goals.
At what kw do you run the motor to get boat speed
I have to admit it…I don’t remember but we will be out this weekend and I will recollect some numbers. We only use the motor to get in and out of the harbor and we generally run at 4kts.
Wow, 30kW is a huge system for the size of your boat! I'm curious what size cabling you have, because that is about 625 amp draw at WOT, and not even 150mm2/ AWG 0000 cable would carry that current.
Oceanvolt doesn't Regen either so good choice
Yeah, 30kW is big and I’m glad that we did it. The other week we got grounded in the channel. Just for grins I went full reverse. That big motor is yanked us out of there almost instantly. It was nuts!
I love how you're putting so much effort into the design of the remodel to correct issues. It's especially great that you take the time to explain it all.
I really think boat manufacturers and the boating industry in general will benefit from your experiences.
Hey Guys, My wife and I are in our 80's. Your bending of you r knees getting into Uma`s tight spaces is incredible. Been following you for several years. Really enjoy your adventure!!
Dan, consider installing two recycle lines into the water tank, regardless of "insulation". If Uma sails into cold weather again, recirculation water from the head or from the salon, into the tank, will help keep your water fluid. It's not a system that would need activation all the time, but it could save the tank and lines from the expansion factor in "cold as ice" climates.
Greg 🇨🇦
I’ve watched you two for years now. But I had fallen off. I come back, and you’re tearing your boat apart. It’s interesting cause I felt like I was there watching so much of it go in, to see it come out was a bit sad. But also very exciting BECAUSE the thing I always loved about y’all as opposed to other “sailor shows” is you guys got in there and showed everyone what and most importantly, HOW you were doing everything. And I also just love how creative you guys were. It inspired me to get my first boat, an Oday 27, which I spent a year fixing up and learning the lines during Covid. I got her for $200 and she was half full of water and sold her for a tidy profit to a guy who, when I asked why he wanted to buy a boat, he said, “Have you ever seen Sailing Uma?”
I’m getting ready for boat #2. And I’m super pumped to see what you two imaginative sailor/architects do with Uma next. ❤
I love your sailing when you do sail, but I have to say, the technical analysis of when you rebuild your boat is by far my favourite. Your design skills combined with your technical knowledge is very inspiring. Looking forward to seeing how uma turns out this time round. ❤️
Yes, I agree. Their technical and design skills are impressive!
I am a jet fighter mechanic on our airplanes we started from the nose or bow and every foot aft we noted the location of every component, Also according to the clock we noted the direction from the center of the craft to each component. The first number on a wire is the distance from the front and the second number is the direction from the center line, 9 0'clock or 3 o'clock. When you are at the circuit breaker. The two numbers tell you the destination of the wire. Any place the wire can easily be accessed The numbers can be seen. You don't need a wiring diagram. Numbers can be purchased that are like a wedding ban that goes over the wire when you are wiring a boat. Large grey electrical PVC with oval access at the top lets you add or remove wires for the future.
This is genius.
Cool
✌️👶🚬👍
You have no idea how much you are helping me right now.. I have an older Allied seawind 35 that I am completely refitting. I was thinking about relocating the panel and after this, I will definitely do that. Thank you so much..
learning about this process is INCREDIBLE. I'm still so glad you went the direction of fixing up Uma, and even more so that we're along for the ride!
I can’t wait for UMA rebuild. I started with you 2 back right before the Atlantic crossing an loved everything you have posted in your adventures.
Fantastic, decent & thorough explanation. Making this video probably the most valuable video for the tech guys or girls. As you mentioned that when the batteries die, that everything dies. Well on the big ships that have to comply with SOLAS regulations, GMDSS reg. (And much more reg.). It is always compulsory to have a 24V set for the VHF, MF/HF, Satcom, etc. So as you mentioned yourself, it is really something to keep in mind.
Also, something I have not seen on Uma (or I missed it), please install an EPIRB outside free floating. If anything happens wherever in the world, the MRCC will know your distress and location these days under ten minutes.
Thanks for your awesome videos, love your channel & Godspeed on your adventures.
We have an EPIRB, Iridium, and PLB's
I really like the videos travelling along thought processes and idea developments. The style you have, the sense for aesthetics, the mix of different content, the different projects - all that is so nice to watch and follow. Love you guys. Wish you the best!
Fundational! 😂 I’m glad you always point out - Uma’s a sailboat. She uses sails. That’s her primary function. Everything else is an additional convenience for safety and peace of mind. Good luck with the refit.
Super interesting video! I've asked about a quote from Oceanvolt a couple times now, but the problem is, my brother who's the co owner of the boat wants to retain the possibility of motoring for 160 miles in two days... So if we go for that, some kind of hybrid system would be necessary. And then I started calculating the CO2 emissions of manufacturing motors and batteries and realized that if I keep the old diesel in good condition, I use it so little anyway that I can go for 80 years or something before the CO2 emissions from using the diesel would reach the level of the CO2 emissions for an electric conversion... It's a sailboat, after all. Already a hybrid system, with a backup diesel engine.
...that said, if the current diesel does give up the ghost at some point, that will change the calculation considerably :D
That's a great mindset to have, and one we always share. If you have something that works. Keep it. Love it. Repair it. It's almost always better to fix what you have that to buy something new.
Some people are never satisfied.
You post a video on your camper; people complain that it's not a boat video.
You post a boat video; people complain that it's not a sailing video.
Aughh.
Just keep on doing what you're doing and never forget that the first people to complain are usually the last people to offer to help.
Already looking forward to the next adventure.
Thank you, that is really helpful, I've been considering an electric conversion on my Beneteau 305 for a while. Some of the real world comparisons were great food for thought, impressed how much you guys achieved with early technology. Best of luck with the rest of the project, love the Land Rover too 😀
You both are just incredible. I have been watching your videos since you began posting. You have come a very long way and lots of energy to keep going.
As a life long electronic and electrical guy I was very impressed by your explanation of your system and future plans. Clearly a lot of thought, research and testing has brought you to this point. I'd definitely go with the small 12v battery system as you described it. Being on a boat is the ultimate in being on your own. On another note you mentioned your "sticky" fibreglass in the locker. You probably know that either painting it with air dry resin, or a coat of poly vinyl alcohol (PVA) will cure the old resin and get rid of the stickiness. Good luck with your on going adventure. Well done!!
Thanks, great video. You guys inspired us to go all electric. We went with 2 Torqeedo motors, 20kw of batteries, and 2.2kw of solar charging. 7 months in and it’s working out wonderfully. We charge our 12v house with a 20a dc to dc from the motors 48v bank. Also, works great!
Love the screen concept as I have just used a 7 by 5 metre white tarpaulin as a temporary screen, for a 1915 vintage cinema that we are re-opening after a 40 year halt in operations, as we are on a tight budget until we can raise the necessary amount to get an expensive proper screen. We have already been able to source a second hand projector and have had a surround sound system donated, so all up we have spent less than $1000 so far. I have loved watching your videos for the past few years and look forward to many more.
Outstanding, understand better the layering Uma has gone thru over the years. Looking forward to more vids on where the improvements are coming from and why!
Most informative 4 real no sponsors etc
Also perfect couple
Cant wait 4 adventures to come
Dan and Kika, we really enjoyed your video and it is absolutely spot on. We are following your channel from the beginning and you are our inspiration for going electric as well, for which we are very gratefull.
Our Jeanneau 30 sailboat has a 7.5kW WW motor, 10.5kWh 48V LiFEPO4 (would like to have 15kWh) and induction stove. This setup works very well., and we are sailing in the Netherlands.
We also run a DC-DC converter for the 12V systems, but with a separate 12V/60Ah LiFEPO4 battery as an emergency/backup battery. This battery is normally only connected to the bilge pump, but can be connected with a simple switch to the 12V supply in case the 48V system is switched off or has failed. We need to charge this battery separate and heavy loads tops out the converter which is not ideal, so perhaps your new system will also end up in our boat in the future.
Thanks for your informative tips. I research hundreds of hours while designing the system for my boat. Now after using it for 6 months I now see things that could have been done better.
Bought a 1967 LeComte 33 with an Atomic 4. Watched your conversion a few years ago and got excited. I have been driving a Tesla since 2013 so I’m a convert and remain one. This winter removing A4 and installing an OceanVolt system. Rick at OceanVolt says hi. Lucky to have him doing conversion work. We discussed your work. Looking forward to having this done and ready for 2024 season. Thanks guys for your leadership!
Awesome info and so entertaining. Kika miming “chalk me up” as she climbed out of the cabin was a classic bit and had me in stitches. Xoxo and best success going forward.
Watching the cockpit locker portion, all I could think was “these funny fools deserve each other” and “damn this is such a fab couple”
This presentation gave me a lot to think about. I am presently an all electric van owner using it for remodeling and really want a bit more “juice” to power everything. Adding solar and lithium makes sense and you started me thinking of the possibilities. Thanks and enjoy the BVI’s next week even though it is a catamaran with a diesel engine.
Amazing episode! I don't have any boat or anything but I'm electronics engineer and watching how much knowledge you gained and the way you present it, is just great!💪 Just a small notice: You might be a bit too optimistic about lifecycle of a lithium batteries 😉
Kika and Dan hi from Calgary. I've had the pleasure of following Sailing Uma since before day one. One thing the industry as a whole has failed to acknowledge is that Uma One is the very first all electric propulsion mono cruising boat out there. Makes this rebuild project make so much sense now with all the water that's passed under your hull. From a lot of extreme locations with very short or zero day light hours, you guys know what you are speaking of. While everyone else was talking, researching and lab bench testing you were out there doing it for real collecting real on the water information. Combine your on the water success with some of the power industry improvements UMA Two will be the all electric drive/living yacht on the water to catch up too. No doubt both of you will bring your architectural degrees to the overall design concept and finishes, watch out IKEA and Home Depot 😄
Any consideration given to investing the time, talent and capital into a slightly larger hull to work with?. nothing nuts 8' max maybe. I know making it all work within the constraints of Uma one will be a tremendous success for both of you.
Whatever you choose to do I'm excited for you can't wait to watch it all come together. Great choice to acquire the truck as living quarters during the renovation. Always nice to not eat,sleep and recreate in the middle of your renovation. Almost always the first suggestion I'd provide to my clients "do yourselves a favor rent a corporate apartment for 6 to 12 months and charge the cost to financing your project you won't regret a single dollar of it. Wishing you the very best going forward".
I like the cute new watermark! This project has taught me a lot about boat maintenance and planning.
I do not know if I have said this to you two, but if I have bear with me. There is a great ploy I learned for reinforcing a hull internally, especially in the way of mast steps, hull sides near the collision potential areas close to and under the waterline, and it is such a simple ploy I am astonished no one else seems to have come up with it.
I use a well known structure proven in aircraft--the D-Spar.
Simply, one pulls out ones vessel, checks the hull lines according to the plans, and adds external forces such as stacked sand bags to get the hull sides back where they were originally. Once the hull is level and symmetrical, the next steps require the internal sand blasting of the hull to remove any finish in any areas to be reinforced. In my case all of the underwater areas and up and across the deck shelf, as well as the underside of the deck. Now one gets the cloth one intends to add to the hull, and begins at the bow. One layer of triaxial is usually more than enough, and it has to be fitted closely. Because it is not very flexible, one may need to fill any tight curves using a mixture of cotton or hemp fibre and epoxy resin plus a bit of Cabosil, to radius any corners without losing strength.
One can then, if one wishes, put a length of woven rovings over these areas for even greater strength. I only ever use epoxy resins for upgrading or repairing polyester boats. Two main reasons, better adhesion, and variations in cure speed by using different hardeners and resins. Epoxy releases fumes, and one requires a supplied air system (a filter is not good enough) and a full protective suit. There is no such thing as a safe epoxy, but some are safer than are others.
Now--assuming one has gone through the internal parts of the hull requiring an additional layer of glass, where I am to replace any frames, or add cant frames, or simply to use geodesic reinforcements between one frame and another, or as strengthens to the frames themselves, I use a base layer of glass matt, say twenty centimetres for a small beam, and roll it into place using a slow cure resin. On top of this I place PVC pipe which has been flamed to slightly oxidise the surface, then sawn in half lengthwise to provide two lengths of curved PVC. These can be end cut to fit into any areas as required.
Where the edges of the PVC meet the base glass layer, a popsicle stick as a trowel and some phenolic micro-balloons and epoxy putty mix makes a nice radius for the covering layers of glass, Another, say, 20 cm of glass tape is put over the PVC so that it is slightly inboards of the base layer, covers the PVC, and that is about it--maybe just a little extra, The next layer of tape begins inwards from the other edge of the base and goes over the PVC from the opposite direction, and the final layer of tape is rolled exactly over the PVC with equal amounts on each side and onto the base.
I use different sizes of PVC depending on the strength required, one uses tapes cut to requirements and as many layers as is deemed necessary. PVC can be bent in situ over the cured base layer using 5-Minute Araldite while one holds it, or using ratchet clamps in reverse as jacks to hold it. I love this in-situ beam construction technique because not only is it strong, easy to use and cheap, it also allows wiring to be run through the interior of the new spar, and thence be used as required. In my case for bilge pumps and the charging of remote batteries and lighting.
Before using it yourself, please make some test beams and have them tested, or test them yourselves. Only then will you decide if these comparatively unobtrusive beams (especially if geodesic) are safe, adequate or even suitable for your needs. For making web frames, the process is similar, but instead of PVC sawn pipe, I use CCA treated wood or better still, stacked laminates of PVC closed cell foam. After glassing, sandwich panels or heavy plywood bulkheads are through bolted and also glassed to these frames.
When such a frame encircles the entire hull, it can serve as keel support, chain plate support, as well as deck beam and mast pillar support.
Guys thanks for the tons of good information concerning lithium power, electric motor options, and general planning and designing the lay out of ones boat for ease of sufficient access.
All the Very Best! Jim Rodgers
Great (and very educational) unmissable content. Take your time guys, have confidence in yourselves (we have) and do this right. You are (and have been) trail blazers for the electric boat revolution. God bless and thanks again 👍👏👏👏.
I assume you are being sponsored by Oceanvolt. Reason i am saying this is their are other manufacturers with proven regen performance. We own a Windelo catamaran and have done two Atlantic crossings with no diesel used to recharge the batteries while taking hot showers every night. (Meaning no cut back on confort) Regarding your ratio of dividing by 4, ours is 2 so not sure about the 4. All the other stuff you talked about, we agree with.What is important about a genset in a hybrid system is to have a 48v genset (not common) so if your batteries trip say on temperature, the genset can drive the motor direct while bypassing the batteries. Water cooled motor and controller is important as you said to have a robust system.
So interested in this subject! Hope you do another in-depth ep on this.
Yup! i'm all electric also, and have a lifepo4 100aH 12v buffer battery set at 13.2V (or roughly 70%) from the dc to dc converters, which is perfect for longevity, and, if my 48v house bank goes down i have 70aH @ 12v of battery time to figure my shit out. Works great, and is also helpful for those higher 12v loads (electric winch ect). Also, You're one of a select few that have consistently held my interest from the beginning. Love your works guys.
Both of you being technically savvy (i.e., educated) has resulted in great videos where each contributes to the overall theme of the video as well as making for interesting discussion.
Hi guys, wow when you said you’re gonna give Uma a refit, you certainly are taking everything out I’m bringing only new in. Keep up the good work guys. Love and appreciate you both, Cliff from Logan City Queensland Australia 🇦🇺🧑🏾🦽
love your series. Have been servicing boats for over 25years and just had a flashback when I saw the steering wire sheaves when you were sitting below the cockpit: I understand that Uma is a bit older. Have you ever changed the stainless steering chain? You are vivid sailours and while sailing under harsh conditions, these tend to break, specially when 10 years or older. I have had a total of 5 chains broken in the Caribbean, some during races, some during delivery trips... you cannot see if a SS chain is going to fail, unless it already started to give. SS gets brittle over time, specially when stamped during manufacturing, which is why you should change your rigging every 10 odd years as well. Might be well worth considering if you have not yet done so
We haven’t changed it yet. Probably a good idea. But also the helm is only one of three ways we have to steer. So it would be inconvenient, but not catastrophic if it broke.
Great video. Really enjoying the journey towards a finished Uma v. 9.7. The marine electric manufacturers will learn a great deal from you two.
Hi Guys, first thank you guys for the shared info on the electric motor conversion. Recently I had to repair my 40hp diesel which cost me 5k. At first I looked into going electric but found very little response from manufactures (believe it or not) here in Ft Lauderdale, Fla. I think this industry is picking up and hope to see grater improvement soon. Can't wait to see the completed results, please keep in mind to post performance test results of the electric motor. Thank You
It's not just the electric stuff, the marine industry as a whole is TERRIBLE and picking up the phone or responding to inquiries. It's something we deal with daily. We can't believe most marine companies are still in business. Maybe they get all their money from B2B and can't be bothered with us end users.
I converted in 2014.
8hp YSB8 Yanmar became a 5.5kw ElectroProp system. Basically a typical Motenergy brushless motor (air cooled) with a Sevcon gen4 controller (110A continuous).
I put together a 100ah pack of lithium iron phosphate cells for energy storage and a 1500W charger that the BMS could interrupt on over-voltage detection.
It gave me basic range of about 10nm at 4kts. Wind and chop could cut that down pretty quick though. I also had a 2000w portable generator for range extension. That could run my charger at 23A as long as I had gas for it.
Fast forward to 2022 and we decided to upsize the battery from 5 to 15kwh. Prices and energy density have certainly come down. My new 15kwh pack weighs only double what my 5kwh pack weighed. And is only about twice the volume.
The new battery talks to my Victron stuff and can control the charging.
I also opted to relocate the battery from behind the motor under the cockpit to a custom rack I built into the main saloon table. The new battery is 100kg, located above the keel bolts. The frame is built from 8020 aluminum extrusion. It’s designed to let me slide the battery modules in and remove them easily for the winter, since we get some very cold temperatures in the winter that could freeze the electrolyte and permanently damage the cells.
I’d love to chat with you guys over some sundowners about what I’ve done for my onboard energy storage.
I built my own battery systems using EVE LF304K cells. A 16S 15kwh for the propulsion and a 4S 4kwh for the house loads.
My thinking was to use the same cells in both so that should a cell go bad in my propulsion bank, i can scavenge from my house bank, and run house loads from a dc converter until replacements can be arranged.
I normally charge at dock but I only have enough room about 200W of solar, which charges the 12v. The mppt controller can also send power to a dump load which is a 12-48 boost converter to send any excess solar to the 48v. I also have spare mppt that can use the 48v as a PV input and charge the 12v if needed. So energy can be sent wherever it’s needed. I think the energy management aspect is the most important in a conversion.
Wanted to share my experience running victron systems with 48v lifepo4 house bank with the 12v side. First off i still had a diesel engine and genset so i did have one 12v agm battery for starting. For my 12v charging i had the victron 20a 48/12 dc-dc converter but also had their 20a ip67 ac to dc battery charger. The efficiency (according to specs) between the dc-dc and the dc-ac then ac-dc end up being within 1% of eachother since their 48v inverters are so efficient. I set the dc-dc converter to .1v below float voltage and just left them both connected. Liked the redundancy and with the agm never had an issue with heavier 12v loads like my electric heads or windlass. I would definitely keep a small 12v agm battery in a full electric boat set up, with the battery charger and ir dc-dc converter always hooked up it will rarely cycle and last for a very long time
For your momentary LED light dimming issue when activating motors or other heavy electrical loads, you may want to purchase a few DC Super Capacitors and install them next to your main break(s) that supply the power to your LED's and on the breakers that supply power to your Nav Gear. The capacitors stay charged and will keep the voltage/current from dropping when you activate a large electrical load on the 12 VDC system. I designed and built a small system for my Energy Management & Home Automation system (5VDC) to maintain a constant voltage for the SBC's while the power is switched automatically from Solar power to Grid transformer power and back when needed. The voltage never drops while the supply voltage is in the process of switching. Keeps the SBC's from constantly rebooting the little computers are much happier. Great Video!
There are potential problems using super capacitors this way.
- the discharge current in case of a short could exceed the capacity of the wiring between the capacitor and the short.
- when initially charging the capacitor, it functions as a perfect short cirquit. The charging cirquit and the wiring must be able to handle that.
- the voltage out will decrease exponentially when the feed cuts out, potentially meaning a risk for brownouts.
Great video! About the battery life. Lithium Ion batteries are rated for 300-500 cycles. BattleBorn and others are typically Lithium Iron Phosphate, which are rated for 3,000 - 5,000 cycles. Plus Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries don’t pose the fire risk that Lithium ion batteries have.
LFP batteries also can be fully charge to 100% at all times they don’t have a problem with the dendrites, that conventional lithium ion batteries have
@@stevenichols4639Sorry, don't agree. I've seen articals about this. All batteries will have a shelf life, regardless of use.
Great episode, hope you guys get a consulting gig on electrical systems with your sailboat, you have the best knowledge, living it or what we called back in the day, hard knocks. A few weep holes in those battery boxes would work wonders, no matter where they go in the future. Would have loved to be the guy walking by your boat and hearing a full blown conversation coming from the cockpit locker :)
This was great. You pretty much confirmed my thoughts of electric propulsion and things around it.
For my boat, I’m currently leaning to 2-4 big and separate 48v banks with individual BMS’s in them. If one fails there’s still another bank to use. And all this without any unnecessary complications.
Bigger prismatic cells can offer the currents needed for propulsion and it much easier to keep them in balance that way.
IMO there’s not any point to make battery bank for usage like this from 12V individual batteries with separate BMS’s.
Keep it up!
Thank you so much for all your experiences put together of whats and whats not with all the do and don't do information that is well needed out there in the wide expance on the blue. Looking forward for more and more of very educating times to come with you guys
Great video summarizing some of the important considerations for your rebuild based on 10 yrs lessons learned. Everything will make more sense as each phase of the rebuild gets completed.
I particularly like the way your videos are so professionally done. You could could teach video/film editing in Hollywood.
Please "hear" me out:
While fully being committed to the fundamental fact, that a human being, be it female, or male, or any identities on the scale have much, much more to them than just being eyecandies to someone, you guys are truly are eyecandies.
- your personalities are charming
- your chemistry is just overwhelmingly adorable, and inspiring
- your way of life, your mentality to it, and towards one another is just pure bliss
- and despite I do identify as a straight man, and my wife is the pinnacle of everything in life I ever was hoping to find in someone, Kika you are just as lovely to listen to, as to watch, and Dan, bro, you are just the perfect compliment to her, and vice versa.
Talented, entertaining, humorous, compiled, gathered, silly when is due, and sharp as a razor when needed.
Very inspiring, how you live, how you live together, and how you sail in life together.
So to come back to my point:
While you guys are hot as an overheating undersized electric motor chugging along on 200% capacity all day long, you do prove that a true person, and a true couple have much much more to offer than just looks.❤
Awe! Thanks!!!
This is the kind of episode I was looking forward to with the resurrection of Uma. Oh and Kika's got impressive guns.
I have enjoyed watching and learning from your very early days. I hope this synopsis of your hard won wisdom is accurate for someone NOT interested in regen using a 2500# trailer sailer:
For electric motors, rule-of-thumb #1:
1HP (=750W) for every 1500 lbs of displacement :: [ 2500 lbs / 1500 lbs ] x 750W = 1250 W = 1.25 kW
Rule-of-thumb #2: Required electric motor ≈ petrol engine HP divided by four
Electric motor kW ≈ 6-8 HP / 4 ≈ 1.5 - 2.0 kW
NOTE1: Overheating is a big concern for electric propulsion, which can be mitigated by water cooling (inboard or outboard) and purchasing an oversized motor which can be run continuously at a lower percentage of max power.
NOTE 2: A 48V DC motor is a good compromise between efficiency and safety
I would love it if you would do a video on prop selection. Methinks a slow turning, high diameter, low pitch prop with 3-4 blades is best for 3-5 knot cruising speed while taking advantage of the low end torque of an electric motor. I agree with your sentiment that performance numbers from most motor vendors are inaccurate and wildly optimistic.
Prop selection is easy. If you want good regen, you need a servo prop to adjust the the pitch to all 4 sailing conditions. If you don't care about regen. Then you can pick just about any prop for your motor speed and RPM.
Awesome content guys!! simplified, Innovative & realistic approach to a awesome project!!
I've been watching since the beginning and wondered years ago if we would see Uma renovated!
Great video. Uma at its best. talking & explaining technology . I have never listened to each word on a video like this. This is one of the best uma video. thanks a lot. Good Job !
Just after I installed my present batteries into my wheelchair, Victron came out with an upgraded LiFePo4 battery system that includes built in BMS per battery and a Battery protect system that is bluetooth programmable with alarms capability which will cut the loads to the motor but not prevent charging. In your case for critical loads like communications and autopilot, I'd recommend tapping the batteries rather than a lot of DC/DC Converters. Determine how much power is needed for the critical load and then take a 12v or 24v feed directly off 2 or 4 or 8 batteries at 12v just to feed those loads. Your BMS will balance all the cells regardless of how you pull power. But you have the battle borns there already, so use some of those for the hotel loads and for emergency power / communications, radar and Autopilot. I have a battery protect on my batteries which is programmable to .1 of a volt, and an alarm relay so that once the batteries get to a point in the discharge cycle I am alerted it's time to call a taxi or get out and push well before my batteries drop below 3.1v per cell. Go talk to Victron Marine and get their input.
Very interested in how you got to your divide hp by 4 to get the kw you need to go different speeds. My boat originally had 2 x 10hp diesels which I've replaced with 2 x 6kw electrics. Unfortunately i never used it with the diesels, so it's hard to compare, but i seen to get around hull speed with 7kw combined on both motors. Interestingly i find that running two motors gives more efficiency than one motor with twice the power. Another bonus is that I'm on a small catamaran which means loads of space for solar. I've got 3200w on a 30 foot boat!
Congrats, kika even makes the advertorials fun to watch.
I have always admired the two of you and your chemistry. Even more impressed by your team work. Kika hats off to you! My wife would have made me take those batteries out by myself or hired help. Keep up the awesome work, and I look forward to the finished project. By the way, I love the new branding. The DK incorporated in one really reflects the two of you perfectly. Love ya!!
I installed an Electric Yatch system for my conversion from a dying atomic 4. Luckily, I have an electric power included in my slip/dock fees, so I dont worry about regeneration. Im on a relatively small to medium size lake, so "motoring" long distances isn't a significant issue. I have a 12" folding Max Prop installed, so I have reduced drag during sailing operations verses a 3 or 2 blade fixed prop.
So far, my experience with my electric motor has been outstanding! I can motor over 20 miles at 3 to 4 knts, which is more than enough to get me back to the dock without worrying about running out of battery power.
My biggest challenge was finding a good location to install the 400amp Lithium battery bank. Looking back, I could have gotten by with a 200AMP battery bank for my use.
The instant access to power and almost no noise has been something that everyone notices as soon as I use the motor.
So my total investment in the electric motor system was almost $10k. This includes installing all the "other" pieces parts that aren't listed as what is needed to create a safe electric motor system. Appropriate gauge wiring, lugs, connectors, master power distribution switches & panels. While some people may not need to use / install new wiring, I found that a 50 year old boat needed to get modern wiring for the 12v and 48v system.
Your comment about instant access to power and almost no noise is the same for us. We really love our Electric Yacht system. I like the lack of maintenance too...we have drastically reduced the number of worry about items on our boat!
@JustFlyIt09 Bingo on the reduced maintenance. My winterization takes me 5 mins. Turn off switches and ensure no loose connections, then walk away.
@@paulcupach8196 yay!
Even a small Daysailor has many more options for electric in the last few years. I started with a 12-volt electric Trolling motor after I had a gasoline spill in the boat. Not enough "thrust". So I got a 36-volt trolling motor with 3 35-ah AGM batteries. (Torqueedo was just hitting the market back then). Those batteries were heavy and needed to be carried ashore in the dingy for charging. I just use the motor on and off the mooring or dock so I found a smaller AGM for a mobility scooter that was really too small for peak load. I burned two of those up over a few years. Then that one was unavailable so I ganged up 3 12 volt AGM at 12ah I think. Worked for a while. I'd still lug the big 35-ah pack if I thought I needed more range. Then I tried a new 12-volt trolling motor with more thrust than my original using a lithium 60-ah battery rated for a lot of current. I also used a 10-watt solar panel for charging. the solar worked great. After 2 years the thrust was really still not what I needed. So I bought a new 36-volt 60-ah battery and went back to the 36-volt trolling. Series 3 12-volt 10-watt solar panels to charge it. Really an ideal setup except I think the solar peak voltage burned out my small cheap 36 to 12-volt power for the bilge pump and 2 lights. The solar peaks at 18 volts each so 54 volts goes over spec. I need to replace with it a 48 to 12 power supply that has a wide enough band to go from 30 to 60 volts on the high side. Really about the same cost (under $30) so it was just bad engineering on my part.
But If I was starting from scratch there are "electric outboards" available today which would be the way to go. The ability of a relatively small solar panel to keep up with the occasional short use of the motor over the season is a game changer. Nothing to haul out in the dingy, and the motor runs immediately every time with just a twist of the throttle.
The commitment to quirky camera spots is inspired
Another UA-cam channel, Emily and Clarks Adventure, has some really good videos about having lead and lithium. Clark is an electrical engineer and created a bank management system that lets you safely combine lead and lithium. I like that he fully explains what it does and how it works, totally upfront and no BS. He doesn't make unsupported claims and really just explains what situations it is good for and doesn't give any hard sell. The exact situation you ran in to is one of the main reasons for it. Also if you do have a diesel engine with high output alternator or a gen set and you are charging your lithium and suddenly the BMS turns off the batteries you can blow out the diodes in your alternator. Also lately he's been disassembling cheap LiFePo4 and testing them and rating them.
Best video yet on conversion. As usual, top material from Sailing Uma. I really admire you two. Thanks!
I didn't understand most of what you talked about but weirdly, I still enjoyed the video.
Listening to your svalbard playlist on Spotify with more sewing. So good! Thank you x
Around 32=02 bleedy thumb . ok one cannot create an omelet without cracking eggs ..OPTISANA fabric injury plasters from LIDL are a great GO TO .. small injury must go to list.this video is awesome .So much quality knowledge and hands on advice . being able to move forward in time 10 years is a wonderful opportunity . for you .
Great video as usual!
Regarding the issue of LFP batteries shutting down suddenly despite SoC being is far above any critically low levels is related to lack of calibration. The SoC that is shown is an estimation, and even with the best BMSs, if the battery has been discharging and charging for example between 30% and 90% for a long time, i.e. many ups and downs, the SoC estimation becomes less accurate. Therefore, at some point, the voltage drops steeply and the BMS shuts the battery off. To overcome this problem, one should charge the battery to 100% from time to time, ideally in every cycle. Tesla for example recommends that for its cars with LFP batteries.
Yes. We usually charge up at least once a week to 100% (aka let the batteries get to "float") That wasn't why ours went flat though.
48V - i totally agree!
On my wish list are native 48V refrigerators, washing machines, …
Would be much more efficient than converting down to 12V or use 230V sinus inverters.
Love your videos. It's so great seeing you two cuddling up while you're making this video. True love is very hard to find and it's obvious you two have found it. I'm still trying to talk my wife into getting out there. We've got the true love thing down...I'm just hoping she'll have the same nomadic ocean home living desire I think I'll have.
Hi,a very well structured and informative episode that was explained in a clear and precise manner It was thoroughly enjoyable and I am looking forward to future episodes as the refit proceeds.Thank you,cheers Roly 🇬🇧.
Enjoyd the video as usual. To me another big advantage to chose for 48V is that you can run thinner cabling for the heavy users. Less copper, less money and weight.
Very informative. Thank you.
Regarding the battery, I would recommend to use a dedicated 48V battery with only one BMS and maybe a good balancer. This will reduce your problems to a big extended. Cant wait to see things being re-built.
Hi Guys, really enjoy your videos - also caught you on the sailing podcast where you spoke about your preference for a faster boat over a heavier boat for your style of sailing - all extremely interesting. It was great to just listen as the presenter picked your brain.
One of the many interesting points you made was that your weather forecasting equipment is your most important safety piece of kit on the boat.
I was wondering if you would do a video on how you guys predict winds etc do you rely on certain apps or are you looking at base data like synoptic charts and interpreting those ?
I feel like you guys would have tons of valuable knowledge to share with us and it might be a deep vein of content for your channel?
Just a thought - thanks for all the videos !!
Did someone say aeroplane ??????
You have the old Edson sheaves, check them for play, the new one from Edson has a pin over the sheaves that keeps the wires from jumping out of the sheaves and jamming the sheaves and is of a much better construction. Call them for a price.
Hi guys - are you forgetting E-propulsion Pod motors? They have 1-6kw motors with super easy install, all very focused on regent as well with up to 1040 watts (at 10knlts, and 500 watts at 7 knots).
Great video though :)
Rock Stars... don't ever change. Great info.... Thanks!
Running wire in conduit is awesome! I always leave a string in each conduit in the event you need to run the odd wire in the future. Yeah yeah; you probably already know that LOL !
If you use a 48 VDC system to drive the motor, windlass and other major loads that you can buy in 48 VDC (AC or reefer?), you can use a DC to DC like you have been doing and float a 100 amp or 200 amp Lithium battery on the 12 VDC side to run the small loads so that you can run navigation, radio and other loads if the 48 VDC system goes down. That will keep you safe. If that 12 VDC battery is the same as the ones in the 48 VDC system, if a battery goes bad you have a spare you could swap in. Can you build the 48 Volt side so that if the battery goes down the Solar, and regen will still charge the 12 Volt side through the converter? Could you build the 48 Volt side with a combiner switch (off, port, stbd, both) where you are normally in both? You can do all of that. How expensive are you willing to go? Do you want that much complication?
Will you reuse much of the wire you have removed or not? I imagine much of the wire might not match your color coding plans and the new requirements for distance and load, but I guess I am wondering if much of that old wire should be installed and used for another 30+ years if it does otherwise fit your plans.
Dan and Kika, did I miss the list of Battery Manufacturers that you trusted in the comments or description? I am super interested in which Manufacturers you trust. Thanks
yes, would be great to have this short list of trsuted batteries
Question; What did you do with all that wire you ripped out of the boat?
Question; Are you planning a "Wiring Harness" that you can put together off the ship to make things possibly easier for installation?
Question; You mentioned "CONDUIT" that future wires will travel through, are you diagraming that out before you put it into the build phase?
Love what you guys do ON THE BOAT, all that other stuff not so much care for. Keep up the hard work.
A: Keeping the good stuff to re-use. Tossing/ recycle the old
A: No, not really. It's easier just to run the new wires individually since we're not mass producing it.
A: Yes, we plan everything in advance.
Outstanding. I have never thought having electrics potentially exposed to the elements is a good idea. Similarly, all that ballast being put to good use, rather than being a handicap, seems extremely sensible. Plenty of additional batteries for the truck now as well 🙂
PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE do your selves a favor and get a dust collector for your sanders before you work on the cockpit lockers. Love watching you and I can’t wait to see Uma 2.0!!!
Nice to see you had liquid cooling for the batteries... :) This was a really informative video. Lots to consider! I agree that 48v should be the standard. Lots of reasons to do it :) Only slight downside is you will still likely need 24/12v step down for some stuff. I think having an emergency set of power/battery bank to run things like Radio/AIS/Other safety equipment is the way to go. (Often they will all be 12v, so the battery setup doesn't need to be as hefty) Looking forward to see what decisions you make!
Love you guys this episode has a ton of knowledge in just a short period of time thank you to sharing your experience about batteries and electric motors it was awesome to learn from you guys.
Those Battleborns are great in a 12 volt system, but specifically they are not supposed to be used in 48 volt systems because the internal BMS can only see what is going on in that battery, not the entire bank, the lack of a CANBUS on them means that when one shuts down the others immediately overcharge and then shut down. It can actually shock and destroy the cells.
The reason for this is when you have batteries in series to raise the voltage, the first battery in the chain experiences the greatest draw, thus it is the first to discharge, first to recharge, when you get into an extended high load situation like motoring, that battery can overheat causing it to shut down.
This is why at times your boat would just straight shut down on you.
Also when you put the boat back together, I would strongly recommend building bulkheads that isolate your cockpit lockers from the rest of the boat and then have just a small weep hole to allow water to drain, this is so if you get knocked down and the locker comes open water cannot quickly rush into the boat flooding and sinking her.
The new thing in batteries is Lithium Iron. It’s heavier than lithium ion, and doesnt have the same discharge rate, however they are completely happy being both completely full as well as completely empty. The really big benefit is that they aren’t flammable. Just bought you folks should know.
Also on the solar panels: look into bi-facial panels. Very cool and can produce up to 70% of the rated output on the back of the panel. They have a clear back sheet so they let some light through.
I think thats what they were referring to when mentioning "these days there are lots of different LiIon batteries out there" :) the battle borns they are removing now were already LiFePo 12V blocks
The best video on utube.
Very informative and to the point. Well done
I can remove 1 of my battery banks easy and still use the other 3 for checking them or whatever reason is needed. That is another reason why connecting each bank to a bus bar with a cutoff switch is huge. I turn off BMS then flip a breaker to isolate each battery bank. Using AGM and Lifep04 cells together only is needed when using wind generators with solar. AGM is not needed if you do not have a hybrid setup.
I recommend wrapping your wrenches in electrical tape to minimize electrical short if it were to be dropped. Looking forward to the whole rebuilt, don't forget the chalkboard.
HI Dan and Kika, nice Video as always, thanks
possible
For the rest, I tend to agree, get yourselves some real good batteries, preferably certified, and are at least ip65 that will not let you down... if you can, better think about how to evacuate thermal runaway gases when you install the batteries, not after.
Regen is a issue for a lot of compagnies, not for Transfluid (Bellmarine) or Oceanvolt. and complete packages are a must.
Note that a good sized propeller is key to a good regen (that is also possible with folding props :))
Best of luck with UMA .