How to Install an Electric Sailboat Motor - Catalina 30 - Thunderstruck Motors Sailboat Kit
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- Опубліковано 30 чер 2024
- I have installed an electric inboard in my Catalina 30 sailboat. This is a handy installation guide to help you with your own install, or to help satisfy your interest in how it might be done.
0:00 - Start animation
0:14 - Introduction
1:30 - Choose equipment
1:54 - Motor Kit
3:39 - Other non-Thunderstruck kit options
4:52 - Batteries
6:38 - Brace propshaft
8:02 - Remove coupler
8:54 - Remove engine
9:40 - Install motor mount
11:39 - Align shafts
13:48 - Battery install
14:20 - Motor and electronics install
15:52 - Pulley-hub install
17:01 - Test voyage
17:38 - Range. Or how far can I go?
19:18 - How much did it COST?!
None of the links below are sponsors. I don't have any sponsors.
Here is the kit I used in the install:
www.thunderstruck-ev.com/sevc...
Link to the CAN-bus translator:
www.thunderstruck-ev.com/can-...
Link to gear reduction/motor mount:
www.thunderstruck-ev.com/gear...
Link to PlugBoats.com list of inboard motors:
plugboats.com/electric-inboar...
Lynch Motors is electric motor company(not covered in the video.) They are in the UK, but are distributed in several countries:
lynchmotors.co.uk/marine-moto...
• Lynch Motors - Global ...
Link to Grin Motors sailboat kit experiment:
ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-p...
Link to batteries I used, from Signature Solar:
signaturesolar.com/eg4-wp-lit...
Link to Sailing Ixion video on installing their Thunderstruck electric motor. The same one I installed:
• Electric Sailboat Moto...
Link to SKIDIM video on how to remove coupler:
• How to Remove a Marine...
Link to my video removing my diesel:
• Catalina 30 - Electric...
Link to Boating Magazine video on how to align shaft coupler:
• Engine Alignment Tips
Link to geomicer video of motor mount install:
• Putting It Back Togeth...
Link to ABYC standards webpage:
abycinc.org/page/standards
Link to Blue Sea guide on wiring choice RE:Amperage:
www.bluesea.com/resources/1437
Link to my spreadsheet with data from first trip. I plan to keep updating it, but so far it is only the one trip on there:
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/...
The playlist of my installation. The first three or four videos are of limited value. You have been warned. :D :
• Catalina 30 - Electric... - Наука та технологія
We need more of these videos showing real life stories of electric powered boat coversions. A growth market for sure. Kudos!!!
Now THIS is a useful video! 20 minutes full of facts and advice, instead of skipping important steps to talk about sponsors and whatnot.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Literally has several minutes of spam and sponsor splooge.
Thank you for putting all the time and effort into this video all for the greater purpose of sharing information. We appreciate you!
I have watched many such install videos and must say you did a great job with yours. Lots of helpful info.
Thank you!
This was a very nice experience that you share with us and a very important thing that you achieve for you and your family! Very inspiring! Congratulations!😄 🙏
I gave u a thumbs up for "yoink your engine out" lol.
Hope this works for you. I wanted to do an electric swap but after figuring the numbers I chose a 25hp diesel and am definitely pleased but I'm a cruiser so when I'm out, I avoid marinas and boatyard like the plague. Just yesterday I had to motor 35 miles. Gotta love BC winds 😆✌🏻
Great video sir! I really like your format, lots of pics of the project, quality of content and build, and consistent narration volume. I'm gonna check out your ROV diving vids. Keep up the good work.
Thanks!
What a fantastic video. To the point and full of detail, I’m impressed. A very good starting point for anyone that wants to install Electric- on their boat.
Thanks!
Excellent video! Extremely helpful details. Great stuff.
Thank you!
I like the shaft vs the sail-drive paradigm. It seems to be simpler, safer and less problem prone.
What a great video. I have the same thunder Struck motor you put in. It came with the boat. I have a 2000 watt generator in case i need more charge. Saved my butt many times. Good job.
WOW. great video, probably the most helpful install video I have seen - thank you.
Thanks!
Great video and work on your boat, thanks for sharing with us. Fair winds and following seas 🙏
Thanks!
You are so concise. I love it
Very well made brother. Good job
Thanks!
thunderstruck is a great company im in NZ and use their chargers and a mate put an e motor in his cat . loves it
This is an excellent video. Like you I also looked everywhere for something like this, and wasn’t able to find one. Thanks for making it.
Thanks!
I used their 5K kit. Very satisfied with quality and customer service.
I watched it 2 times, great job.
Thanks!
Thanks I am planning to replace a 45 yo diesel with electric. Very helpful.
Good video. An alternative to cutting the stringer is to use an upside down 6mm 316 stainless L shaped bracket to bring the motor lower.
With the alignment one can try fixing the coupling first then play with the mounts.
Yes! I would have preferred to do it that way, but at the time I didn't know I could probably get the sheet metal shop to bend some brackets for me. So I decided to go with the method I knew I could make work. It would have saved me many steps to use some 'Z' or 'L' shaped brackets!
Well done video - Thank you!
Thanks for your reply and great information awesome video
Nice video, very informative.
Thanks!
Great vid. It took a lot of work, lots of detailed info, Very helpful and really appreciated, Thank you.
Thanks!
I look forward to more videos about your case.
Thanks!
That's a really good video, thank you for making it. I have a playlist of how I mounted my 10KW inboards by E-Tech into my catamaran's bilges. Used 3D scanner and 3D printer.
Thanks! I haven't had a chance to watch your videos yet, but I plan to!
So glad you mentioned the waterproof eg4's I had not considered those for my build. They're now 200 more each than the server rack versions I was planning, and I'm buying 8, but the waterproof feature makes me think these are the better option.
I think you are right. You have to protect them one way or another, and if the waterproof ones leak, it someone else's fault! (just kidding. sort-of) The insides of boats get wet more often than the insides of houses, so rack mounted batteries, on a boat, really are in danger of shorting out. If rack mounted batteries had been in stock when I needed them, I totally would have bought them. And I would have regretted it. :O
Just to clarify, these are 48v 100amp batteries (with a 200 amp maximum discharge rate). They're on sale now (12/12/23) for $999 reg $1649@@openrov272
I hope used never seize on your shaft and threads. This video is very informative.
Thank you
Outstanding.
Thanks!
Very nice video sir! Thank you :)
Thanks!
i was looking for a video like this before...and all i got was a mostly after on a grin install .....i understand the reduction props want tourque.
but i wanted to try to go shaft-less direct for re-gen, and low drag under sail sake, and actually had to design my own 9-phase motor.....
still checking out the way different people are doing it....super video, thank you sir.
Thanks!
@@openrov272 it was really sad at the end though....you did such a good job on everything, but you didn't get a re-gen controller.....i felt your pain dude......just price a re-gen controller out, and see if you can get a partial refund for the used one..
@@openrov272 i mean that's the whole point of an electric drive conversion on a sailboat....i think those Sevcons are all re-gen capable.
@@openrov272Re-Gen Is More Dependent On The Controller Programming ....if you "load" a prop too hard, it won't spin; if you don't load it hard enough, it will just spin .... it's kind of like manual MPPT...so you have to Tweak The Re-Gen Controller Programming........and reductions might be great for forward propulsion, but just as much, they cause a reduction in re-gen....if you have a sevcon , then mess with the re-gen programming under sail....looking for the sweet spot.
The problem with regen for my boat is just that the prop is too small. But my next big project is to make that work one way or another. :D
Make sure you use locktight on the coupler screws, any vibration and eventually they will come loose..
Thought you did a very good job.
Thanks!
Nice man. I did the same conversion and shot a bunch of video of it. Have not edited it yet.... Seems like a lot of work.
It is! :D
Thank you
Good job
Thanks!
very good indeed -
Thanks!
Well done! I feel there was a point in the video where you reached no return - the electric engine *must* work :)
Thunderstruck should slip you some swag as they're now backordered. Nice video.
Lol
I recently installed an electric yacht 20kw in a 37' Irwin, and it was weak. The tides were stiff, and the run from dock to sail area was long. Electric is still a fantasy. Battery densities and motor efficiencies are a ways from max, and alternate power sources should be included. It was quiet and pleasant.
Range can certainly the issue with electric motors. But you should not be having an issue with power. A 20kw motor should be plenty powerful for your boat. If it feels weak, then something is wrong. Do you have gear reduction? If you do, the ratio may not be correctly matched to your prop. If your motor reaches max RPM before you prop does, max power will not be attainable. (I have this issue. I set things up for the prop I plan to get, not the one I have. And I haven't gotten the new one yet.) Alternate power sources are a great idea. Some people have a generator for back up. I have a 15hp outboard (for my dingy) that can easily push my boat at hull speed. I haven't used it yet (apart from testing) but I will.
Yes, maybe something with your setup. There's a vid of a converted all electric commercial lobster trawler hitting the swell called 'An all electric Lobster fishing boat Watch It Work Lorna Jane'. If he can do it.
brilliant video, so much information it deserved a sub. wondering if it's possible to take that setup and add it to the drive shaft while keeping my Diesel engine like a hybrid while puttering around running on electric but for longer hauls switching between the two, oh that's a thought if I am running on the motor for propulsion would the electric motor then become a generator?
Thanks!
There are companies that make parallel hybrid setups for sailboats. I haven't seen any that were kits or packages made to update existing motors though. That would be very cool if they did!
Hello if you put a Pooley ln front of the motor roughly, about 4 to 1 and connect it to alternator when you’re running your electric motor alternator, open will put volts back into your batteries
i sized a system for a Grinde 27, using one of the newer axial flux motors and got the pack down to 24V ( 25.6Vnom ).....that's the gold, because the system can still be electrically floating..
On Salt, anything over 25.6Vnom ( up to 51.2V Max nominal Li-Ion ), you really need the center tap sea ground, to center reference the pack;
but as soon as you put in a sea ground, you need faraday cages, and a way to rote lightning current to sidarcs..
Can you share a link to the actual flux motor you used please?
Easy set up.
Nice job, thank, but one must wonder, given the very reasonable price of used boats, whether it would be more effective to find another boat in good shape and upgrade. I’m thinking that if I were to replace the engine, an outboard or Torquedo would be my preference and so avoid the issues associated with the prop, shaft, bearing, etc.
Hey mate. Thanks for the super informative video. Am just installing my electric as we speak. Do you have any roll pins (or and type of pin) with your coupler other than the two retaining pins? I have a taper lock coupler and can't find an answer to if the clamping force is enough for the thrust forces (forward and reverse) or weather I should also reinforce it with some sort of thru shaft bolt / pin set up.
Love your work on there finally being a how to out there!
I just have the two retaining pins. I know that the interference fit on (one side) of my couple, does the bulk of the work. But the retaining screws on my set up are definitely required! :D
@@openrov272 legend! Cheers
there may be some provisions, in the emerging code, having to do with connections; which may allow for higher voltages than 51.2Vnom.
but i think that center tap sea ground may have to be there, at some point; for packs over 25.6Vnom.......but as it sits at the moment, electrically floating packs are still limited to 25.6Vnom
Great video. Super informative but not so far into the weeds that it was tedious.
Even more interesting are the comments. Back when "Sailing Uma" and a couple other early-ish EV adopters were converting (maybe five-7 years ago), the comments were full of the usual "old salts" just ripping them on their decision to go all EV, to the point of being insulting and ignorant. It's gratifying to see that enthusiasm and productive consideration seems to have taken over.
I shared in my group
Nice job man ! Next step, tesla swap ?
Interesting video thank you, would like to have known the weight differences, is it getting to a point where a 300ltr tank and big v8 stern drive could be changed out for electric or do we still have to wait for tech to catch up
My diesel engine was about 250 lbs. Plus full fuel tank which I think was about 170 lbs (not including the tank itself). There was additional weight from the heat exchanger and whatnot. The new motor was about 50 lbs and the batteries are about 85 lbs each (x2 170 lbs). SO currently I am under weight by close to 200 lbs. Which leaves room for more batteries. :D
Make sure all your heat sink fins are faced upward for proper cooling effect..
I like my air cooled Chinese 168 F diesel. It's much lighter and cheaper than electric and it charges batteries on very little diesel. Hot dry air is welcome in almost any humid weather.
Confused? "lighter and cheaper than electric" then "charges batteries"? Any vids to show what you mean?
@@Lana_Warwick Good question. Read slower and fair seas to you.
Interesting. Haven't seen your channel before and may have skimmed over this but what prompted you to do this conversion?
The fuel tank and heat exchanger for my diesel both needed replacement, and though the motor itself was working, it needed work, probably a rebuild. I really like the idea of installing an electric motor so instead of spending money to fix all the rundown parts I had, I spent the money on an electric motor kit. :D
Hello again. Wanted to pick your brain some more. What size interconnect cables between the batteries would you recommend? i will run 4- 12v 100ah batteries in series for 48v. i was thinking 4 GA. Do you think that's adequate or should i go with something larger?
Figure out what amperage you expect to draw, and consult this chart www.bluesea.com/resources/1437 I used 1|0 (or 0) which is good for about (I think) 180 amps, because My set up could use that amount. :D
Very funny, inspiring informational vid! Thanks for sharing this useful info. Was wondering if anyone ever attempted installing a hybrid electric motor like a Prius C? Might be a dumb que but I'm not very technical so no shame on my end lol. It seems like a great redundant option that can further reduce fuel costs as well as mitigate against lightning storm damages to any onboard electrics. Would greatly value your expert feedback.
There are definitely hybrids out there. I agree they seem like a great Idea. :D I've also seen people use generators on their electric sailboats.
@@openrov272 :- ) Was never a fan of generators purely from the standpoint of the noise they...well... "generate". Part of the reason I support the electric movement actually is for its low noise pollution in such a beautiful, natural environment. To me its a no brainer and as the technology on batteries improves, I don't see why it can't become the standard. Anywho, just my 2 cents.
Very informative video. Thanks. Two questions please:
1. I'm sure that you've mentioned it elsewhere, but how many of what type of solar panels do you have feeding this system?
2. Seems I've seen a video or two from others that show a direct connection of a similar motor to the drive shaft (instead of using a belt). Do you believe the belt is simply mandatory, or did you choose it for other reasons?
1. I don't have any solar panels... yet. Just batteries so far. I expect/hope to install some. :D
2.a. Using the mount, with the belt to change the gear ratio, helps in a few ways. Changing the gear ratio to match the desired rpm of the prop means that the motor can reach maximum rpm. According to Thunderstruck, this is more efficient, gives better torque, and reduces prop cavitation.
2.b It also gives more control of power output. I'll try to explain. Compare turning the throttle a quarter of the way to maximum. The straight shaft will spin 2 or more times faster (depending on) meaning more power goes to the prop. The shaft with gear reduction will spin slower putting less power into the prop (for the same turn of the throttle) which gives more control of how much power is used while maneuvering, (or even holding position in a current.) The straight to shaft setup will reach the real max RPM of the prop at or below half-throttle. (I'm not sure I explained this well. sorry.) I'm guessing the throttle (or the controller) could be programed to avoid this particular issue, but I don't know how, so this is still a bonus for me. :D.
2.c. The motor needs a thrust bearing between itself and the prop shaft. This is a requirement because the motor isn't made to support the shaft directly. Thrust bearings can certainly be installed on their own. But I have no experience with that. This motor mount/gear ration changer has one built in. So that is a nice bonus. It really makes installing the actual motor much easier too! And it will be helpful when I need to remove the motor.
I should note that, by far, the number one reason I chose to use the available motor mount, is just that. It was available. I needed a way to install the motor and this solved that problem. I didn't have machining skills or experience, so I was happy to not have to solve that problem. heh. :D
@@openrov272 Very good, detailed explanation, thanks.
@@openrov272 The mount also gets the open frame motor further out of the bilge and away from any seepage from the shaft seal plus will prevent the high speed Motenergy ME1115 Dual-Stator Brushless Motor (yikes 5,000 rpm) from running full torque at low RPM generating heat and consuming more energy which will greatly reduce range. You could direct drive and change the prop to match the motors direct drive speed range to overcome this as others have found however upping the shaft speed likely will accelerate bearing, shaft and seal wear.
To me the Elco with its totally enclosed design with integrated controller and speed matched motor (1,500 rpm) is a better engineered solution due to the protection it provides the motor from getting contaminated with water/brine but then Elco has been at this for well over a century starting with the Worlds Fair Electric Launch's in the late 1800's plus a variety of submarines from General Dynamics since around the first World War. A number of the 1893 Worlds Fair propulsion systems are still in original condition and operational today as are a number of the boats still being used to ferry passengers, not just sitting on display as museum pieces. Their EP-12 Electric Inboard 12 HP equivalent with everything (motor, coupler, mounts, controller, throttle and charger) except the lithium batteries comes to around $8,299.
Its becoming easier and more viable to do this today and its nice to see the various options being pursued.
Kudos for taking a shot at this as a DIY project and sharing.
Best!
How are the EG-4 WP batteries working out? I bought a about ten of them. The cells are wildly out of balance. Seems completely random as to which ones. I can't charge above 55.2 without going over 3.65.
They have been working well for me, but I can't claim to be an expert. I just plug in the charger and when I get back to the boat they are full. They do have a 5 year warranty, so if they are bad you should be able to return them, though obviously it would be a pain in the butt to have to do that! This guy: ua-cam.com/users/WillProwsesearch?query=eg4 seems to know a great deal about batteries, and has experience with EG4. I'm not sure if he has used the WP ones though. He would probably have a more satisfying answer! :D
I converted my Catalina 30 to the same ThunderStruck kit 5 years ago. I recently bought the ODB2 kit and Bluetooth adapter - got everything hooked up but I am having trouble setting up the Torque app to read the output from the controller. Did you have to download special PIDs for the app?
Yes! I think I got them from the link at the bottom of this page: www.thunderstruck-ev.com/can-translator.html
👍👍👍!!!
I'm a bit puzzled. Your spreadsheet says that you have two batteries of 48V at 200Ah each which gives you 9,6kWh each or 19.2kWh total. In your video you said that you only had a 10kWh battery bank. I'm not familiar with those batteries and they are not available here but the LiFePO4 batteries we get here are not 48VDC but 53 to 56VDC which changes the calculation somewhat giving 53VDC x 200Ah = 10.6kWh or 56VDC x 200Ah = 11.2kWh per battery. I am assuming that the batteries are the rated voltages I mentioned and not 24VDC base meaning you had them in series to get the "48VDC" you mentioned. It is quite a nice detailed build video, well explained.
Each of the 2 batteries in my boat are (I think) 51.2 KWh. They are actually 51.2v, 100 Ah each. (But that range is called "48v", which is confusing. :D) So I have a total of 10.4 KWh. Sorry if that was confusing in the video, or on the spreadsheet!
Hi, do you have a bead on a supplier of blanks for all the holes left behind of the decomissioned and abandoned? And also how did you plug the engine exhaust port?
If you are talking about the thru-hulls, I haven't sealed them. The raw-water intake thru-hull is plugged and strapped for now (As well as being closed of course.) The exhaust has not yet been permanently sealed or removed yet. It is above the waterline, and the hose loops well above the waterline, but it does need to be plugged, or preferably, filled. I have some ideas for the raw-water intake, so I will leave it as-is for now. Once I deal with the exhaust thru-hull, I will finally be able to remove the rest of the exhaust hose. :D
How about unused control and gauge holes, did you use blanks?
No I haven't used any blanks.
Im looking at replacing my Farymann A30 that I just found a hole through the head (literally) and attempting to do this in as much as a budget/cheap as possible. Boat is a cheap 6kt sh t box, but a local legend in seattle. Anyways, Looking at Anaheim Automation has some integrated controller/motor units and wondering if that could save a few hundred there and going cheap on the batteries if shes never meant to spend more than a night or two out from a plug. I think I can get it done in under 4k USD, is that too lofty?
The main downside of going electric is range. If you don't have much in the way of batteries, you should really have a gas outboard to back you up. I say this because if you need to use a lot of power to get out of a tough spot, it will use up your battery very quickly. The good news is that battery prices seem to be getting better (for lithium Iron Phosphate.) The bad news is that that doesn't help you right now with a hole in your engine! That sucks!
May i ask where you bought your LifePO4 batteries? So much out there, and don’t know which source is trustworthy. If you can reply with supplier link, it’d be awesome. Thanks!
signaturesolar.com/shop-all/batteries/
This is where I bought them :D
Have you thought of supplying voltage for the electric motor with a gas/diesel generator ?
It's a great idea, especially for longer cruising trips. I don't have one, but I do have a 15 hp outboard for my dingy, and it easily pushes my boat at hull speed. So that is my back up currently. But I have seen (on youtube) several people use generators as back up when cruising. They are relatively small an inexpensive these days (for gas generators.) In a bigger boat, a diesel generator would be great.
One more question, does your setup (and mine) mean the little pins thru the dual chain are all that is holding the thrust force in reverse?
I guess so! They use chains on snowmobiles and motorcycles, so I think they are pretty strong. :D Or am I misunderstanding the question?
@@openrov272 yeah so, when in reverse, the dual chain is essentially want to pull apart, which means the whole thrust (only in reverse) is on those tiny pins thru the chain. yeah I'm not sure. I can't find a definitive answer. Best answer I can find is "noones has broken yet". That's not very scientific, but I guess I'll just run the gauntlet and play the numbers game. Am I over thinking this or should there be maybe a thrust bearing in between the coupler and the stern seal facing aft?
When I look at the chain-coupler, to me it looks symmetrical. So I don't see how it is different when you are in reverse. I am probably thinking of the wrong part! heh. If you want to send a picture, you can join this discord server, and post a picture there. discord.gg/Gv38FXd The invite link will last 6 hours. :D
why did you chose to go 48v? I see a lot of people doing it and I don't understand why. I know there must be a reason but I have not read, see or heard why. Thank you in advance. (love the spread sheet)
If you used 12v, the current draw would be so high that you wouldn't be able to afford the cables. Using 48v means less current for the same amount of power, and the cable size is determined by the amount of current, not voltage. The reason to not use higher than 48v, (even though it would still smaller cables) is that 48v is considered safe (or so I have read) but going much higher that 48v can start to be unsafe for some people. Person to person, we have have different conductivity. Some might be safer at higher voltage, some at lower voltages. :D This is the best answer I have found, but I am no expert.
Electricity is made up of voltage V and current I. When these go through a resistance R they are proportional (double voltage halve current) V=IR. However, power loss is I squared so if you double your voltage current goes down by a half but power loss is now a quarter. So higher the voltage the smaller the wires needed.
I'm trying to buy an Elco electric inboard for my Catalina 27 but I'm running into phone apps. I don't even know if they make a control pannel for their engine. I would think an engine would come with standard gages that tell you RPMs, amps etc. Why on earth would I want to have to drag out a phone to look at this stuff? Not to mention the privacy concerns. This is just amazing to see a company pull something like this. Anyone know of an inboard motor company with actual equipment and no phone apps?
And also a way to require subscriptions and ongoing fees.
What about regeneration using the prop & motor while sailing?
Currently my prop is too small to do regen. And according to what I have read, the largest prop I can put on my boat is also too small. I'm going to do some experiments, hopefully this summer, to see if there is anything I can do about that. :D
hey, very nice job.
it's interesting to know the global budget about this conversion (motor, controller, charger, battery pack)
i'm from belgium, and found a representative contact of Thunderstruck in Netherlands..
my boat: a Kelt Sailoat, 30 feet, actually powered by a Yanmar 2GM :)
or the same project, this last summer, at LaRochelle BoatShow, a firm in France propose me 15.000€ (motor, controller, charger, batteryPack),.. interesting to compare
enjoy the Sea ;)
Would you do it again today? Would you use the same or different motor and if so why?
I would do it again yes. And I would use the same motor. :D I'm very happy with the motor. I haven't discovered any downsides, and the price was better for this motor than the others I looked at.
Are you located in Sidney BC? I also have a Catalina that I want to convert to electric. I would love to see your boat as I live in Sidney.
I'm up island in Nanoose. :D
That's amazing. We keep ours in Ladysmith. If your ever free, my girlfriend and I are up that way most weekends.
You can message me on Discord, and we can arrange a time: discord.gg/NQTG5pnk
I have a Gray Marine engine that works fine but it takes half an hour to unstick the recently replaced (they said that would fix the problem...) #1 exhaust valve every time I want to go sailing. I have been watching every electric conversion video I can find and this is the best so far. One thing that gives me pause is that many of the older videos on conversions end with the owner removing the motor and putting an engine back in the boat. Now that you have a year of experience, how's it going?
I really like it. I have plenty of power to motor out for sailing and then back into the marina. I also have an outboard, in case I want/need to motor long distances and need to rely on gas. I haven't had need of it yet, but since I have the outboard for my dingy anyway, it solves the infrequent (for me) range issue. :D
@@openrov272 Thank you for the prompt reply. Your boat is 10,200 pounds and 30 feet long and has a 10KW motor. Mine is 12,000 pounds and 36 feet long. Do you feel you have enough reserve power that you would use the same motor for my boat or would you scale up and get the 12KW motor? My use condition sounds similar to yours. I would need full power for the 1/2 mile dead into the not unusual 25 knot wind marina entrance channel. Other than that, it would be light wind usage. I sail in SF Bay so would never have to motor in big seas.
I would go with the 24kw. It is same price as the 12kw. It's a little more efficient to have the higher voltage. It think it is the same "everything" as the 12kw, but programed for 96v instead of 48 or 72. The downside, is that you would need 2 48v batteries in series, so if one failed your voltage would drop in half. I don't know if the motor would work at all at 48v. If you can afford the extra $3000-3500 USD, then you could buy an extra 2 batteries, to solve that problem. :D
@@openrov272 I had not considered higher voltage as my needs are so slight. It would be an unusual day I had to go 2 miles. 1/2 a mile of that might stress the motor but other than that, 2 knots would be fine. Obviously thee are a few days a year when the wind dies and I want to get back and turn on the engine.
I take it from your reply that you don't think the 10kW motor would be enough. Am I correct on that?
Their site says "up to 12000lbs". So in theory it should be fine. The larger motor is $800 more, which for boat stuff, doesn't seem like a huge amount. (it's still 800+ dollars though!) It would mean you were not so close to the line between powerful enough and not powerful enough. The 10kw would get you 2 knots without any difficulty though. I run my boat at 2-4kw. 2kw normally. 4kw on the way home. heh. And I go whatever speed that power gets me at the time. If my hull is clean (which is not the case right now) and if wind is not too bad, I get 3.5 knots (+/- wind current effects) at 2kw and about a knot more at 4kw.
Jetzt verschulde best video
All hail the lords of corrupt inflation. Thank you for the honor of allowing my dreams to be crushed. ...good info!
Any plans on solar panels?
I have the intent to install solar panels. But I'm not certain when that will happen. I charge the batteries on the dock, and that works well enough for now. But I want solar panels so I can do more than just day trips. :D
If I knew 1/0 Black wire was much cheaper that the 1/0 Red wire, I'd use all Black with Red Marine heat shrink on the ends. Or at least ask them why?
Lol. I should have noted on the sheet that the black wire was a discounted "End of roll" section. It was exactly the length I needed. Lucky me! Otherwise I would have done exactly what you suggested with the heat shrink. :D
Did you consider mounting a similarly powered torqeedo on the back for a simplified install and freeing up space in boat?
I didn't think of that. It would have been a fair bit of work to install an outboard in the center of my transom though. I would have to find a new place to put the ladder and buy/build a quality mount. Before I started my install, I'd expected the job of mounting the motor bracket would be less trouble that it was. Mostly though, I just want an inboard! :D
@@openrov272 Indeed, inboards are superior in terms of performance and no cavitation. I think I am just not as skilled and could never pull off a DIY inboard mount....🤣.
@@openrov272 alternatively - im on a Catalina 309 and was playing around with the idea of one of the powerboat style torqeedo with remote control and a "well" to mount it interiorly as did not want it popping in-out of the swell. but in the end, figuring I will be doing a engine replacement keeping the shaft exactly like you did.
What’s your max range motoring at near hull speed ?
If motoring long distances at Hull Speed is the most important feature for you, I wouldn't go electric. Range is the one factor that is still very(very) much better with a gas/diesel power-plant. I have an outboard as a backup, in case I want to motor for long periods of time. But I haven't used it yet. I can motor at about 3 knots (2kw) for 5 hours, and that has worked well for me. Currently, my prop does not match my gear reduction ratio. (This is because I am replacing the prop, so I made the calculation for the new prop not the current one.) So I would have to guess to answer your question. I can't claim it reaches hull speed, because I haven't done it. With the 10 KWH of battery power I have, using the 10kw motor that I have, I can go at full power for 1 hour. (the range is weather dependent) The diesel motor, which I replaced, couldn't reach hull speed anyway, but this motor will get closer to it. (It might actually do hull speed, the math suggests it can.) I generally run the motor at a set power level (2-4k) so I know that I will get either 5 -2.5 hours of motoring. If you reduce your speed by 1 knot, you use half the power. So running at 2 knots below hull speed save uses 1/4 the power of hull speed.
From your states it does not sound like it would be good for Island hoping and crossing the ocean. more of a lake option
Does it recharge the battery while sailing?
My prop is too small, but with a bigger prop it would.
Could you please give me the approximate weight difference going from diesel to electric including fuel
My diesel, universal 5411, wieghted 245 lbs. A full fuel tank weighed about 160lbs. (The universal 5411 is very small for a marine diesel, many catalina 30's had larger, 365 lb, 16 hp version, or a atomic 4 at 437 lbs). In my boat, the electric motor, including mount, was (IIRC) about 50-60lbs. The batteries are 80lbs each, and I have 2. So the total weights are: Diesel - 405 lbs. Electric - 220 lbs.
So is your OBM gasoline driven?
Yes, my dingy outboard is gas, and pushes my sailboat boat at hull speed. So if I need to motor long distances, I'm covered. So far I haven't needed it, since I can motor for 4+ hours (at 3 knots) and that is more than I usually need. :D
Good luck getting signature solar to cover the warranty. They told me to pound sand
Do you know if the throttle circuitry influences your binnacle compass at all? They're a little close for my comfort.
I'm not sure. I don't think it causes the compass to wobble, but it might have a static effect. Good question! I do Plan to move the compass higher in the future, when I add a control panel.
@@openrov272 I did a controller-less EV conversion on a car years ago. The amount of current the throttle generated in that setup would have been a problem. But maybe with a controller it's not much of an issue.
Where did you source the battery charger
I bought it from : signaturesolar.com/shop-all/batteries/battery-chargers/ :D
Can you recommend a charger for a sealed lead acid battery?
www.sterling-power-usa.com/ These were recommended to me by others. I've installed one on my boat and it has worked well so far!
this is a very useful video, but its really quiet, im at 100% at windows and 150% in sound booster in browser and its still barely hearable
Thanks for the feedback. It is too quiet. I will do it better in the future. :D
@@openrov272 hope you will manage to make an update before next spring, im getting myself a boat as well
What about regen from sailing.
My current set up won't allow regen. My prop is too small, (I've been told that, realistically, you need a 16" or larger prop for regen) and I believe the space available for a prop on my boat is also too small (for a 16" prop). I will be replacing my prop, so there is some small hope there. :D
@@openrov272 yes to will need to upgrade to a feathering or similar prop. As you want the larger prop for Regen but less drag at slow speeds. I think the real holy grail for electrics is producing enough Regen or solar to charge the small running time to get in and out of the slip as well as house loads. I suspect we will see at a minimum diesel electric hybrids being the norm for all new boats and repowers soon enough.
why didnt you add more battery capacity to the boat? cant you add abt 50kwh?
Mostly it's the $12000 (plus shipping, taxes, cables and other install costs). :D I would be okay with the extra weight (it would put me about 450 lbs over the weight of the diesel + tank etc).
Do you know how many KV your electric motor has?
If you mean KW, it is a 10 KW motor. The voltage of the motor is ~48V. So that would be ~0.048 KV. :D
@@openrov272 no friend! My question is correct. I did not mean KiloWatts and I wrote it correctly, I wrote KV which means Revolutions multiplier by volts, I watched the video again (minute 3:04) where it says 48volt * 50 RPM that means that your motor is 50KV and It gives a maximum total of 2400 RPM and that in the water is very little. You are using an engine that possibly has a lot of torque, do two things, you can get much more success with high revolutions, you can increase the revolutions with gears or change the engine for For a motor with a higher KV, I recommend above 25 thousand RPM, and you will be able to have better success using the same amount of electricity (amps).
Ah! Okay, so the max RPM of the motor is (I think) about 2800 RPM. Propeller RPM on sail boats is something like 850-1650, depending on the prop. What I have read is that a large, lower RPM prop, is the best for efficiency (while motoring, but worse when sailing, obviously). So I don't think I could do 25k RPM.
I suspect if you’re clever and use your noggin, this can be done for a lot less than $10k. Maybe look at the world of golf cars and mobility chairs for lightly used, high-quality components. Second hand 12 V server backup batteries are also a great way to source batteries more affordably, as they are changed out on a schedule, even if they were never pressed into service. Most of these have Samsung or LG cells.
Yep. This can definitely be done for less by reusing stuff!
always the same results. Spinning an existing inboard uses more than twice the power of turning a large diameter (4ft) propeller slowly. When using electric every watt saved matters.
Nice video and useful, but replacing a diesel engine with an electric motor is not necessarily an "upgrade ". Which propulsion that is best depends on many factors. Still good video for those choosing to go electric.
I agree! But my wife made that graphic. And I avoid arguing with her when I can! :)
no updates?
I haven't done an update because, though I have gone out many times, I don't really have any new information. I'm ordering a wind sensor, so that I can more properly account for wind speed. And I need to clean my knot-meter inducer so that I can get water speed, which hasn't been running since just before I removed the diesel. I typically run at 2kw, and that gets me a speed of 3-4 knots depending on wind (high wind drops me below 3, but I usually sail then.) I will note this in the spreadsheet. Which I should have done before. Doh!
I don't understand the advantage of electric that you can run for....(a couple of hrs, I guess) to a combustion engine that you can run forever
There are a ton of advantages to electric. Range is NOT one of them. (Unless you have all the time in the world, then, if you have solar panels, you could be boat-energy independent! But I don't think that would work for very many people.) Low noise. low maintenance. High torque, and instant power, on and off at the flick of a switch. The ability to run the prop at very low rpm. There are other small advantages I haven't used more than 50% of my battery in my outings. But I mostly go day sailing. You don't need a lot of energy to motor in and out of the marina. But I expect time crunches when cruising. For that I have my dinghy's outboard. It pushes the boat at hull speed. I haven't needed it yet though. But when I do, I will happily burn the required gasoline.
Electric and salt water
Go great together !🤣
Ne subscriber sending greetings from Tucson, Arizona.
I contacted ELCO last year looking for information to complete an electric conversation installation.
They were NO help and offered NO information.
I absolutely would never buy premade battery packs like that. Bare cells and a BMS with data logging would be the only way to go.
Have you done that before? See Rigging Doctor where Herbie does it AND the problems they later encountered.
It really depends how well the modules are made, etc. Some modules include data logging.
@@rickkwitkoski1976 I have built a few packs for EVs. My experience is mainly with the Orion BMS.
@@LoanwordEggcorn I have never once seen a single cell with a BMS (even a dumb BMS) built into it.
@@fcguy2778 Module means more than one cell.
still no sailing videos? still got i?
Still got it. Still love it. :D I haven't had a chance to do anything worth posting, and the data (in terms of range) hasn't changed. I expect to be able to improve things (with wind data) this spring/summer. Last year was super busy for me and I failed to organize anything beyond day sailing. :D