Thanks. The only reason I watched was that it was 2:13. You said what you needed and unlike most UA-camrs you didn’t stretch it out to 18 minutes for monetization. I appreciate that.
God, yes! I don't want to be introduced to your cat or hear some story about a funny thing that happened last year. I just want the instructions and some tips, along with a few warnings about what I might need to watch out for. This is a great example of a useful video.
David, I see some negative comments here that are unwarranted and out of context. You've been very clear that this isn't the RIGHT WAY to do it, but rather a quick and easy interim step between full teardowns. Your video is very well done, and I appreciate your post.
"Honing", not sharpening. That's a detail that I hadn't thought of! Just like using a butcher's steel to touch up a knife, which doesn't remove steel, but simply straightens the edge so it will work again. I was certainly intimidated by the prospect of resharpening the blades in my handheld power planer, but I'm also frustrated by the loss of performance lately. I was looking up how to do this, but this video makes it much more doable.
Color the edge of the blade with a pencil or sharpie, then give 1 or 2 strokes with the stone. This will show how worn the blade surface is, and if you are honing evenly.
my jointer is a 6in. 1948 delta-built in Milwaukee i put new blades on run 1000s bf through started to see lines on the wood knots i am sure no chipped blades will this method work??
I’m only a hobbyist and find I put off proper sharpening as set up after is fiddly on my machine. I have honed the full edge in situ. I’ve never given the blades a secondary bevel. I guess using this method it would need the infeed table lowered and pulled away to get the whole edge honed. Thought provoking video with interesting comments. I have a jig to hold the blades for proper hand sharpening. Regrinding takes off too much.
That's a good trick. Unfortunately I think my Makita electric planer blades hit a nail or something not wood like. It's leaving visible raised lines so I think I'm just going to change them out this time. However I will try this trick on the new blades and watch out for old nails in recycled wood. Thanks 👍
A power planer, also known as an electric hand planer, is basically a small jointer turned upside down with a handle installed. It will work fine. amzn.to/3I0ZI6D
If you must do it this way you need to lock the cutterhead at the same exact location for each blade. I have occasionally done it when I'm pushed for time but I don't recommend it. The back edge of your bevel really should be flush with the cutterhead for maximum safety and stability which means your double bevelling the knife and reducing the relief behind the cutting edge to zero. THIS IS DANGEROUS and can lead to excess friction, hammering and kickback. The simple truth is that the only way to sharpen planer knives properly is to take them out and regrind them.
I've never owned a planer, and I have a Craftsman with the flat blades. I was considering getting another Craftsman, but I know that the blade heights must be set precisely on the Craftsmans, because the outfeed table is non adjustable? But I am confused what you mean, can you please explain why a slight honing of the blades could be dangerous?
You've occasionally done it, but no one else should, is basically what I'm getting out of this comment. The point of my video wasn't that this was the proper way to sharpen jointer blades, and I said as much in the narrative. I indicated that it was a short term option that can be used between sharpenings, which it sounds like is exactly how you use it.
@@DavidCanMakeThat I have only resorted to this technique a couple of times when I was pushed for time and the budget was tight. I have my own straight knife grinder now so there are no excuses. Far to many jointers are used with dangerously blunt blades and these machines simply do not work accurately or safely unless the knives are sharpened regularly and installed properly. Many pro shops are guilty of this. Some guys are crazy enough to use this technique with machine running ! Suicidal. Even some trade school technicians teach this technique as legitimate. The temptation to cheat is always going to arise when your not in the mood to take out and refit knives but I would never teach this technique or encourage anyone to even try it. I have only used this technique when employed by cheap ass bosses who refused to allow us to change knives whenever it was required.
Yes there is a need for relief angle. But honing produces very little "land". So it is perfectly alright. The land is also what gives the edge more strength. One further benefit of hone in place is that the blade height on the edge of both ends can be improved.
@@ramonching7772 Jointing a thin secondary bevel in situ is used to ensure perfect concentricity by those who are struggling to get knives sharpened perfectly straight. But the land amount you can get away with is very very thin before friction develops to unsafe levels and hammering occurs. That tough edge comes at a price and does not give a good finish. Some people joint the edge then remove the blades and draw it back by hand. Another trick is to drop the out feed table and stone the edge to pull out the secondary bevel. All these tricks are possible but to do it you have to set the blades higher in the head. This reduces blade support and can lead to other problem's. Increasing the bite of exposed blade reduces safety. It can also lead to blades pulling out of the gib or worst case flying out of it. Ideally the back of the bevel should be flush with the cutterhead for best cut quality and safety.
First, they aren't "blades", they're "knives". Second, NEVER hone along an edge. That adds scratch patterns parallel to the edge, and that's a recipe for early dulling. Old-timers like me never have any trouble reinstalling our knives after sharpening them CORRECTLY. Or having them sharpened, if we're in a hurry.
Thanks. The only reason I watched was that it was 2:13. You said what you needed and unlike most UA-camrs you didn’t stretch it out to 18 minutes for monetization. I appreciate that.
God, yes! I don't want to be introduced to your cat or hear some story about a funny thing that happened last year. I just want the instructions and some tips, along with a few warnings about what I might need to watch out for. This is a great example of a useful video.
David, I see some negative comments here that are unwarranted and out of context. You've been very clear that this isn't the RIGHT WAY to do it, but rather a quick and easy interim step between full teardowns. Your video is very well done, and I appreciate your post.
"Honing", not sharpening. That's a detail that I hadn't thought of! Just like using a butcher's steel to touch up a knife, which doesn't remove steel, but simply straightens the edge so it will work again.
I was certainly intimidated by the prospect of resharpening the blades in my handheld power planer, but I'm also frustrated by the loss of performance lately. I was looking up how to do this, but this video makes it much more doable.
Color the edge of the blade with a pencil or sharpie, then give 1 or 2 strokes with the stone. This will show how worn the blade surface is, and if you are honing evenly.
Aah. I only do this when tuning up the shoe, but this makes sense and will save me a lot of time.
Brilliant idea. This method will also set both end of the knives to the right height relative to the table surface. 👍👍👍👍👍
Videos like this are gold.
Awesome tip! Thank you so much. This will definitely stretch how long I go between full-blown sharpening sessions.
my jointer is a 6in. 1948 delta-built in Milwaukee i put new blades on run 1000s bf through started to see lines on the wood knots i am sure no chipped blades will this method work??
I’m only a hobbyist and find I put off proper sharpening as set up after is fiddly on my machine. I have honed the full edge in situ. I’ve never given the blades a secondary bevel. I guess using this method it would need the infeed table lowered and pulled away to get the whole edge honed. Thought provoking video with interesting comments. I have a jig to hold the blades for proper hand sharpening. Regrinding takes off too much.
That's a good trick. Unfortunately I think my Makita electric planer blades hit a nail or something not wood like. It's leaving visible raised lines so I think I'm just going to change them out this time. However I will try this trick on the new blades and watch out for old nails in recycled wood. Thanks 👍
If the rest of the blade is good, you can. Actually just take it out with a sharp hand plane
What is that oil?
Tap Magic cutting oil.
Great tip, i never would have thought of this, thanks !
It’s actually a terrible tip. His method he shows is wrong. It’s been written in past magazines.
The method is whetting.
Clever idea! Thank you.
I can see this working for a jointer but for a planer? Maybe putting it upside down and having it open ALL THE way?
A power planer, also known as an electric hand planer, is basically a small jointer turned upside down with a handle installed. It will work fine.
amzn.to/3I0ZI6D
@@DavidCanMakeThat where did you purchase your stone ??
Great info. for a touch on the blades.
Short and to the point
Great idea thanks for that I appreciate it😅
OK. So I bought my first jointer in 1983...and you're waiting THIS LONG to exhibit this simple trick!?
Shame on you.
you are removing the rear clearance angle of the cutting edge this way. A cruelly bad idea.
Pretty much... all this does is level it off and push the burr to fold inside. But hey. To each their own.
If you must do it this way you need to lock the cutterhead at the same exact location for each blade. I have occasionally done it when I'm pushed for time but I don't recommend it. The back edge of your bevel really should be flush with the cutterhead for maximum safety and stability which means your double bevelling the knife and reducing the relief behind the cutting edge to zero. THIS IS DANGEROUS and can lead to excess friction, hammering and kickback.
The simple truth is that the only way to sharpen planer knives properly is to take them out and regrind them.
I've never owned a planer, and I have a Craftsman with the flat blades. I was considering getting another Craftsman, but I know that the blade heights must be set precisely on the Craftsmans, because the outfeed table is non adjustable? But I am confused what you mean, can you please explain why a slight honing of the blades could be dangerous?
You've occasionally done it, but no one else should, is basically what I'm getting out of this comment. The point of my video wasn't that this was the proper way to sharpen jointer blades, and I said as much in the narrative. I indicated that it was a short term option that can be used between sharpenings, which it sounds like is exactly how you use it.
@@DavidCanMakeThat
I have only resorted to this technique a couple of times when I was pushed for time and the budget was tight. I have my own straight knife grinder now so there are no excuses. Far to many jointers are used with dangerously blunt blades and these machines simply do not work accurately or safely unless the knives are sharpened regularly and installed properly. Many pro shops are guilty of this. Some guys are crazy enough to use this technique with machine running ! Suicidal.
Even some trade school technicians teach this technique as legitimate. The temptation to cheat is always going to arise when your not in the mood to take out and refit knives but I would never teach this technique or encourage anyone to even try it.
I have only used this technique when employed by cheap ass bosses who refused to allow us to change knives whenever it was required.
Yes there is a need for relief angle. But honing produces very little "land". So it is perfectly alright. The land is also what gives the edge more strength.
One further benefit of hone in place is that the blade height on the edge of both ends can be improved.
@@ramonching7772
Jointing a thin secondary bevel in situ is used to ensure perfect concentricity by those who are struggling to get knives sharpened perfectly straight.
But the land amount you can get away with is very very thin before friction develops to unsafe levels and hammering occurs. That tough edge comes at a price and does not give a good finish.
Some people joint the edge then remove the blades and draw it back by hand. Another trick is to drop the out feed table and stone the edge to pull out the secondary bevel.
All these tricks are possible but to do it you have to set the blades higher in the head. This reduces blade support and can lead to other problem's. Increasing the bite of exposed blade reduces safety. It can also lead to blades pulling out of the gib or worst case flying out of it.
Ideally the back of the bevel should be flush with the cutterhead for best cut quality and safety.
You are damaging the cutter block without knowing it, not so smart
It's still working great for me.
First, they aren't "blades", they're "knives".
Second, NEVER hone along an edge. That adds scratch patterns parallel to the edge, and that's a recipe for early dulling.
Old-timers like me never have any trouble reinstalling our knives after sharpening them CORRECTLY. Or having them sharpened, if we're in a hurry.
If you are going to try and instruct, could you use a guard...... and call them knives....
There is no chance this works anywhere near as well as taking the knives out and doing it properly. Waste of time, learn to sharpen properly