🔴 Why In The Heck Does One Bayonet Cost Twice As Much As The Other ?
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
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Matthew Hoover 83631509
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Understand I’m not a lawyer nor have I played one in a movie the things I talk about in my videos are strictly for conversation or entertainment purposes only!
Do they make ar 15 Bayonets? May be dumb question but I never heard of one. I would like to have one.
Not a dumb question at all
Yes both of these will work on an A.R. 15
But..... you need to have the right barrel length gas system combination
14” carbine length
16” Mid length
20” rifle length
No you could put the M9 on a carbine length it will look like this I’ll post a picture
But for a carbine length A.R. 15 you need a bayonet with the 7 inch handle
photos.app.goo.gl/sKUvCuHqzqDSn1n57
If you can find an old surplus M7 bayonet (I have one kicking around somewhere), that will work just fine too. But either of these are probably better if you want something practical that'll actually cut. I mean the surplus one will too but you'll probably have to completely reprofile it, they usually don't come sharp at all.
@@knottheory79220 a practical bayonet is not a cutting tool at all. That is why they are not sharp. You thrust a bayonet into your enemy twist (develop), recover and repeat. If something needs cut use a knife.
Alex Barry however, your also trained to slash. So a sharp blade with a chamfered dull tip seems to be perfect!
~A Sharp Knife is a Safe Knife.
~I have Bayonets for my AK, AR and my beloved M14, but I have not yet used them for anything purposeful.
~My collection consist of original AK Bayonets as well as the M6, M7 and M9 US Bayonets, in addition to the M6 I brought back from my tour in Vietnam.
Thank you for the feedback I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment
Ty for your service bro
The back side near the tip for wire cutting isn't meant to be razor sharp. It needs to be a little blunt to serve the purpose as a wire cutter.
I got my Ontario bayonet from an Afghan army soldier that lived with us on our COP. I traded him a crappy digital camera for it.
Nice
Blood grooves isn’t a thing. Fullers are put in to make the blade lighter by giving the blade more surface area with the amount of material being used.
I was going to say something, glad you said it first.
Huh,m well.... Smith and Wesson' own information on the blade calls it a blood grove too.... soooooo. :/
Doesn't make Smith & Wesson right it's called a fuller ask any bladesmith
They also make the blade stiffer.
Blood grooves make it easier to pull out the knife cuz there is less surface area on the knife touching the flesh
The saw back is not designed to saw through wood and stuff. it's designed to help you escape through sheet aluminum and Plexiglas like in a crashed helicopter. Which I once did while I was in the army and in a Blackhawk that got shot down. This was pre M9 days and I was using an air force survival knife, but it worked to get my buddy out of the aircraft.
Wait so if i but it to cut some wood.. it can break the knife or something?
Mostly for cutting notches
Tell us the story of getting shot down
It just means it isnt optimized for it
@@mmh6861 no, but if you use a metal cutting sawzaw blade to cut wood it will take forever.
I know its an old video but hopefully by now someone has told you that a blood groove is literally just a way to expand the metal without adding weight. The blood suction thing is a myth and wouldn't work anyway because the groove doesn't extend out to the end of the knife. If anything that design would create slightly more vacuum.
Exactly this. The reason a blade gets stuck is because you hit bone, not due to any sort of vacuum sealing.
Both the blade and scabbard of the S&W Bayonet look identical to the $35 Wartech Bayonet. I wouldn't be surprised if they're both made by some Chinese OEM.
Cause it says Smith and wesson on it. Probably only difference
yup that is what i said and then i found your comment below. bump.
It's OK to buy Italian made pizza lol
Haha
Your comment about the machinist cutting his material cracks me up! That's not how it works making part in large quantities. I think the forged hilt would be faster and cheaper to make than machined part? I doubt the hilt would ever break on either one? And the blood grooves thing, that's to build strength to the blade, I don't think anyone that's been stabbed to death ever had a problem with the knife getting stuck 😂
There are stories about trench warfare, if your bayonet does get stuck, firing a round into the enemy body will help the bayonet break free from the body
I’ve heard of this it’s definitely something that needs to be tested
I’m extremely curious if it would actually make a difference
Good to know - hope I never need to use that bit of knowledge.
Using the leverage of the rifle should not be a problem.
I remember reading that in a WW2 book too. The author mentioned that one of his buddies asked the drill sergeant why they would be bothering with a bayonet if they still had bullets in the gun. Yeah... he had a rough day after that.
Anyway, I think the point was to reload and then fire. It probably worked great for a 30-06 M1 Garand, but would be marginal for a .556 AR.
I would have thought that if I had a round in the chamber I would not have used the bayonet in the first place?
Mine came decently sharp, I couldn't saw my hand over it like you described. However the point is very very sharp. Deadly sharp. With a few minutes of work it could cut paper no problem.
Thank you for the feedback
My favorite “you got get out there and cut some shit down”😂fr 💯
I have the S&W bayonet. I've trained and shot a good bit with it attached. Never had an issue. It's actually a pretty sturdy knife. My only complaint is the edge is so thick it is hard to sharpen. Then again, you don't want your bayonet to have a razor edge in case you have to go prone with it attached. Accidents happen.
Bayonets aren't supposed to be sharp because when you're running, jumping into vehicles, crossing fences, or stacking up in confined areas you don't want to cut yourself or your buds.
We always carried a boot knife or something similar in our packs for cutting work and carabiniere cutters for ropes and cigars.
that's why the Chinese and French bayonets are triangular spikes , tapered hole , not worth a damn for cutting anything , but pull out easier than a flat blade .
I did not know that thank you for taking the time to leave the comment
Also doesn't hurt the blade when they drop their riffle. 😉
I have an Ontario M9 (used by a military unit) and had no trouble at all getting a good edge on it in 5 minutes. the wire cutter works well and will cut nails and fence wire, but not hardened spring wire. The reason the blade does not go through the handle is so you can cut electrical wire without getting shocked. Also, there is a YT video where someone put the M9 on a rifle, impaled the blade in a block of wood, and bent the knife until it failed. It took a lot of force, leverage, and working back and forth to get the knife to break. That FRP handle is very strong and you will not break this bayonet with your hands.
Unfortunately there is no insulator to break ground to the end like in Russian bayonets. That electric fence gonna bite. 😉
A bayonete is not a knife and therefore is not supposed to be sharp. Bayonetes are for stabbong, not cutting. When I was in the Army, we weren't allowed to sharpen our bayonetes. The M9 is one of the worst bayonetes ever issued. They are heavy and intended to do too many things. I'd rather have an M7 over an M9 any day. There is also no such thing as a "blood groove" they are called fullers and are meant to lighten the blade while retaining strength. Any other explanation for them is wrong and a myth. There is no vacuum formed when you stab someone and a fuller will not make any difference in the difficulty in pulling the blade out. And the original "saw back" design is not intended to cut wood. It is mainly intended to cut through the thin metal of aircraft skin and to aid in pushing the metal out and away from you using the notches to catch on the edges so you can make a hole to get out through, and to cut through rope and thin vines. It is not made to cut wood and that should be very obvious by it's design. Don't waste your money on an M9 for survi al or hinting purposes, you eill be disappointed. They only offer the "tacticool" factor and are not practical for anything other than their intended uses.
I bought a M-9 bayonet that was just under $40 and is a serious piece of equipment. Fully sharpened. Not my last knife but an important one in my arsenal
This guy doesn't know anything about knives. Also IKEA is Swedish not Italian. Don't ever disrespect.
I ordered an m-9 and am anxiously waiting for it to come in, I’ll take the official issue that I had and know the quality
It’s a spear before it’s a knife lol
Meant as a thrusting weapon
I have a military surplus beyonet that has spray painted number that I matched on the A2 rifle.
I wish the scabbard would fit on the beyonet while on the rifle.
Generally, 400 series (420? 440?) Stainless which the Smith and Wesson are made from is generally considered soft steel, especially when you compare it to 1095. Since they don't list it as an HC (High Carbon) it will be more flexible, in the cold, then say AUS8. 1095 is more durable and will keep an edge longer than 400 stainless, and I gotta say, hundreds, if not thousands of 1095 Kabars have been used and abused over the years, without breaking a tip. It really depends on it it is a clip point, and the grind angle. Ontario Air force survival knives are 1095, and the tip is known for breaking, though I have never broken mine. Victorinox used 420 (and 440?) steel and is considered soft, easily bent, easily dulled. AUS8 is known to be tough stainless, but I have found it to be brittle in the cold, and 1095 to be more forgiving.
Never had a problem with Victorinox. Try out the Alox Hunter Pro.
My question is why does a single Ontario m9 bayonet cost as much as a good shotgun (Maverick 88)? Bayonet is a simple knife no matter how you look at it and it's not complicated to manufacture.
i ran through the bayonet course a few times when I was in the Army. Bayonetting things is exhausting.
Most S&W knives aren't made very well from my experience with them. Maybe the M9 is worth trying but not if it over $70. The blade being non-full tang is one of the reasons I haven't added 1 to my collection. It's in bad need of a redesign!
Bayonets by design are supposed to be blunt to cause more trauma to the body if you have a sharp blade you make a clean cut if you have a dull by design knife like a bayonet it makes a hell of a dirty cut . I was bummed out in boot camp when I got my first bayonet the realization it could barely cut open an MRE and only by stabbing into it kinda a let down once in the fleet you realize you gotta buy one a good knife two make yourself a field survival kit to put in your pack and a lot of Pogie bait because to many MRE meals make for a sticky number 2 if you know what I mean!
I would’ve been so bummed out they would’ve got me to shut up about it
if it was north Italian made it was most likely Chinese made. Chinese bought up a lot of factories in northern Italy.
I love my Ontario M9 it looks awesome on my 590A1 btw..it’s called a fuller not a blood groove.
That blood groove thing is a commonly repeated myth.
It’s called a fuller and it’s there to increase rigidity and slightly lighten the weight. It does nothing to help or hinder pulling the blade out of a target.
Those serrations on the spine of the Ontario is not a saw, it's meant to shred the top of the wound cavity on the initial thrust to your target, that's why it doesn't cut wood that well, its basically a meat shredder.
The S&W has a pouch for a sharpening stone, I like that, but the sheath will not fully set down when on the gun. Had to cut a small grove to get it to set down all the way.
Bro, it’s not a cutting device. It’s a stabbing device. Also, you remove the bayonet by pulling the trigger. USMC tips 🙂
Hi ~ Knife Guy again. The Ontario has actual saw potential even with the forward stroke. What the S&W has (and most Rambo knives etc, are Not really for sawing wood or anything else. Most folks think those ridges on the spine are a "Saw", but they are not. All ridged spines like that are copied from the Randall "Survivor" knife from his forge during Viet Nam. What they were made to do is to Rip-out the aluminum sides of downed helicopters. Other blades sometimes have a sort of saw on the spine, (like the old Marble's Pilot Survival knife) but the Big notches ya usually see were put there by Randall for a specific purpose. On a bayonet like the M-9 those ridges would make a horrible "Harpoon" effect. Very nasty.
Good Luck ~ You have a great channel. Thanks for all the work you put into it ! B.
the saw works fine for me though, it's not perfect but it works fine. And this is a knife made primarily for killing, and cutting through someones throat, Not sawing wood.
Metal does not have grains it has shapable crystal structures. When the strike occurred by the drop forging dye , it aligned the existing crystals to compress and go into the desired direction gaining strength by the compression of the crystalline structure because they are compressed and closer together. This also makes for a better edge retention after sharpening.
Man this dude is AWESOME!
I have an M9 and I took it apart and fit a solid tang via a piece og galvanized pipe fited to the blade tang and a hardened steel roll pin placed through the handle/ pipe. Then I drove the nylon handle over that and added stacked leather over the end with the locking attachment so it is able to fit a carbine AR15. The handle is a little longer and there is no chance of the tang breaking off. Its tough as nails.
That screw driver is not there to take apart the bayonet.That is why the Marine's OKC 3S does not have a screw driver or a way to take bayonet apart.
I got the Smith & Wesson Special Ops M-9 Bayonet with a black powder spear point blade and a textured nylon handle from Big5 for about $30 the s&w site has it priced at $109. The edge has a notched spine and deep grooves. Included is a black scabbard with a large storage pouch, a sharpening stone, and wire cutters It was the last one big 5 had so I got lucky on price only thing I did replace the sharpening stone with a much better wet stone
Features:
Blade Length: 7.8"
Overall Length: 12.8"
Weight: 0.9125lb
Blade Material: 420J2 Stainless Steel
Handle Material: Thermoplastic Rubber
Also "blood" groves that may help in retrieving your knife but that is not the original intention it's for making the knife lighter and stronger
I have a M9 bayonett (smith and Weldon)
I actually have bayonetted a living creature, a woodchuck in my backyard. Old Mauser bayonet on matching stock, no barrel. After 3 thrusts I left the vermin pinned until he died. Had no issues withdrawing the blade. Bugger just wouldn't quit.
You should get the Ontario OKC 3S Bayonet/ I's pricey but definitely a badass Bayonet that's full tang. I don't agree on what you said, I would rather have a high carbon steel than a stainless. That's why stainless is cheaper than high carbon blades. I have a Cold Steel Recon Tanto in SK5 and it's RH is 63-65 and it can pierce steel drums and still cut paper!! Can't do that with a stainless steel blade flawlessly!
Nice good feedback
purchased the ontario. actually came sharp enough to shave with out of the box, not that i would lol. Id take that over the smith any day as its made in the us, and has a lifetime warranty.
Any bayonet that will fit an M-16 will work with an AR-15 as long as it has a bayonet lug.
The okc is now $250 and it’s probably going up even higher now the company is closed
You would need to add an abrasive compound to your belt to actually do much to a knife edge. It would be like trying to sharpen steel with a cleanex.
Bayonet is important! I definitely want one for all fighting shotguns I have .
Good tool for desperate times of need .
Agreed
I've got a question... I'm a beginner at this whole knife thingy.. i know a little than before watching videos.. and I realized that this knife is not actually for survival.... Splitting rope, ect'.. but I want that knife to my birthday and I believe that this knife can handle cutting ropes.. cutting some small trees maybe.. and be useful to making some fire easily.
What's ur opinion about that?
I think so
@@CRSFirearms kk thanks 💯
I say invest in a good Ka-bar or Bowie knife that can do anything. A bayonet is only good for poking and wirecutting.
Like you said, S&W is better for cutting and using as a knife, but Ontario m9 is made for combat using such as piercing, cutting wire, tough and sturdy works... And due to the pressure comes on it's blade, it must be blunt. Thanks for comparing both in a video. I suggest you to also compare Buck 188 bayonet with them.
I cannot speak to the Smith bayonet but there were something like 450,000 M9s produced. It will accommodate M4 carbine length carbines and shotguns on up. It is also a thick and wide blade that is more of a knife than a spear point bayonet like the M7. It is stainless steel. All these features and more make it cost more. The M7 is a parkerized carbon steel spear point blade and there were over 3,000,000 produced. It has one job and that is a bayonet unlike the M9 that can be used for multiple jobs. The M7 will not accommodate M4 carbine length carbines and shotguns. It will accommodate M4 mid length carbines on up. So production numbers and the blade composition/features play a big role in a bayonet's price/value. Then there are new and surplus bayonets that also play a role in price/value. I have plenty of knives but I wanted a bayonet for my M4 mid length so I got the M7.
The m9 is the same
14 inch barrel carbine length
16 inch barrel mid length
20 inch barrel rifle length
@@CRSFirearms The M7 will not fit a carbine length M4 but the M9 will. The M7 will fit a mid length M4. It has to do with the distance of the front sight gas block/bayonet lug from the muzzle. The front sight gas block on a carbine length is shorter than a mid length from the muzzle. The newer M9 will fit most anything but the older M7 will not.
Oh I know
The M9 has a 5 inch handle
You need a 7 inch handle to fit a carbine length 16 inch barrel
7:28 not trying be mean but that's some Rambo lore
Bayonets are a stabbing weapon. I've heard they're NOT supposed to be sharp. The reasoning I've heard as to why is that if you actually had the bayonet on a rifle and used it to stab someone then a sharp bayonet is more apt to cut its way deep into bone and then potentially be very difficult to get out of someone. A dull bayonet will either crack a bone or at least not cut as deeply and therefore allow it to come out of the stabbed person more easily. I know that bayonets are, or at least were, issued dull. I've heard in Vietnam, sharpened bayonets were confiscated and replaced with dull ones.
Damn I’m 36 and I learn something new every day.
Thanks
I believe the ltl pouch on the side is for a sharpening stone, a small one but sure would be better than nothing. Peace!
I believe you are correct
You're right. I have one and the wet stone is very handy.
Have the earlier Ontario M9 on my 590A1 and it’s awesome. It was fairly sharp, but not really sharp. Have no real intention of using it for anything unless I actually have to use it one day. You never know.
Thank you for the feedback I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment
i thou;ght the grooves were a way to reduce weight while keeping the strength. like an I beam
The Smith and Wes comes with a sharpening stone in the back we take the cover apart part
Lancay & Ontario here! Don't use them, just collect. Would like to get a Probis, cost way too much!
to remove a stuck bayonet, either use your foot or pull the trigger and blow them off.
Didn't know IKEA was Italian, LOL
This is a bayonet, not a knife. It's not sharp, but has a strong tip. Its only purpose is to penetrate a body and cause bleeding or damage an organ, not for slashing attacks like a saber. If you sharpen it to use it as a knife, you are weakening it in it's primary function. There are bayonets that are just a spike. I don't know anyone who took theirs with them, instead of their personal knives. I'd rather have a kabar with me. I can't recall the last time anyone used a bayonet in combat or there was a bayonet charge. Korean war or Vietnam?
Sharp bayonets don't tear flesh as well as full ones. It makes wound repair more difficult than a nice cut.
Bayonets are typically not supposed to be sharp, because it makes them harder to retrieve as they can cut into the bone so when you twist you’ll either snap your edge or twist the body too. Bayonets are a stabbing weapon primarily now it not being razor sharp is excusable but it being so blunt you can saw on your hand is ridiculous.
The grooves on the combat knives are intended to cause a pneumotorax, in simple words, to make a cannelure to get in external air in to the chest (or tórax), and colapse the lung, to inhabilitate the oponent ! In the M9 the serrations are intended to cut metal ! The last thing anybody want in a fight is to loose your knife or bayonet or your rifle with a bayonet because it get stick/attach in your ennemys body, thing that could happen with the saw in the S&W !
Excellent comment and thank you
Ikea is from Sweden not Italy.
Lol you're right.
you had me a taiwan. no i knew the s&w would be made in some asian sweat shop. OKC is made 50 miles from me in Franklin NY.
Don't believe the top edge is suppse to be sharpened , it's "eased" for a reason but not sharpened for cutting , by easi g it it makes it easier to plunged
Put an edge on it all you like it just won’t stay there. I use my okc m-9 to dig up weeds mend fences and throwing it. It’s made the way it is so it’ll be modulated. If one part fails it can be disassembled and replace the part(s) as needed. Ontario bonds the hilt to their tang but earlier models the sheath could be used to remove the screw on tang. In my opinion though M-9’s are over built pieces of crap and you should get the okc 3s that Ontario also makes. It’s a superior bayonet/knife that functions well as a knife or bayonet. The M-7 isn’t bad either.
Honestly why bayonets are not sharp is because they are used as a stabbing tool and can be used as wire cutters. They are not meant to be sharpened. Non sharpened bayonets are safer for the user when affixing bayonets, and when using as wire cutters. IJS So just like you said yourself, straight out of the box it is not a knife, because it is a bayonet.
I'd say it would be useless in modern combat (unless it's close contact)
But it could be useful in a zombie Apocalypse
Right on
@@CRSFirearms check this out and look at how he uses a bayonet
ua-cam.com/video/KvMWEsejG2Q/v-deo.html
Haha bad ass
A bayonet makes most sense on a bolt action rifle or a shotgun. Shotguns are close range and limited magazine capacity, so an additional close quarters weapon could be a lifesaver. Bolt actions, due to time spent chambering and aiming a round, benefit from an "always on" weapon. People think that bayonets fell out of favor due to the decline in trench warfare, but I think it's moreso the fact that guns are faster now and have high capacity magazines. An M16 can dump 1,000 rounds per minute, and a highly skilled Mauser or Springfield rifleman could only hope to get 30 rounds per minute off on a good day.
I'd prefer the dulled OKC...if I need to use it, then I'm gonna rip and tear until it is done....you can't stitch that up! Lol
Todd K no
@@bongwaterbaptist
Lol, I hope you realized I was being facetious.
@@toddk1377 you is right
The biggest problem I see with the S&W piece is those stupid huge serrations. Useless for a bayonet. The serrations on the Ontario are much more useful. Don't have a belt sander? That's why they make files.
Same here go with the ontario.I bought a shrader, has cheaper steel, no wire cutter, and serrations. it would be better to havethicker blade to hammer on. best comment is you need a mid length gas system, a carbine gas systen cuts your knife down to just a few inches. things I learned after buying...
Thank you for the comment
All of my bayonets seem to be sharp. I have never sharpened any of them. I used an M7 when I was in the Army. I still have it and love it.
Nice
Those are not blood grooves. That is a myth. The grooves are for weight reduction.
My guess is the price gap is largely due to the difference in hourly wage between Chinese children and American Union workers. S&W knives are nothing more than a licensing gimmick, as they do not actually have a factory themselves that they make knives in. Last time I checked they had licensed the S&W name to Taylor Brands and then purchased Taylor Brands through another of its divisions. Taylor Brands is mostly known for buying up the name of defunct US makers like Schrade, Old Timer, Uncle Henry, Camilus, etc. and then making the knives in it's China factory. Having owned a few S&W knives I can tell you although they are at times somewhat functional, however there is certainly no pride in ownership.
I was actually researching bayonets when this video came out
Nice
Perfect timing
@@CRSFirearms but does the smith fit the MP.
Back thrust is always better.
The S&W does not have an NSN . If you sell to uncle sam you can gouge the hell out of them .
Thank you for the feedback
Okc is an actual issue for gi's and are good quality
It’s not blood grooves...they are called fullers to strengthen the blade and make it lighter
Are you sure I thought that’s what they called it on Smith and Wesson’s website
I will have to doublecheck
I think you I really do appreciate the comment
Actually...the blood groove is for strength...but also it makes it easier to pull out of someone's body..makes a slurping sound...a sound once you hear it...you never forget it.. Excellent video
Thanks
I can imagine the sound like that would stick with you
A fuller does not add strength. It loweres the weight of the blade with minimal weakening of the blade.
Read up on fullers
In spite of your issue any ontario blade is better than any sw blade. Ontario has been making machetes and knives for the USA military since ww2.
Great video... I have been looking for a bayonet to add to my AR (nobody I know has one on any of their builds..).....per the usual great info... Be blessed bro
Thank you I appreciate the compliment
"Straight out of the box, this is not a knife..." Correct. It's a bayonet. Not a knife. It wasn't designed to be a knife.
Took me around four hours to re profile my blade with my Ruixin sharpener with diamond stones. Shave sharp.
You are incorrect on your information on steel. Carbon steel, as it pertains to knives, is harder and sharper than the majority of stainless steels on the market. The main reason the bayonets are made in 420 Stainless Steel, other than rust resistance, is that it's very cheap to mass produce. Most of the cheap knives you find on the market coming out of China are 420 or 440 Stainless.
The Ontario M9 is not made from stainless steel...
I wonder if my sport 2 can take that S&W bayonet I don’t need it and it’s so impractical but I feel the need to have it 😂
I live in Pa.,last I knew in this state attaching a bayonet to a RIFLE is illegal...... stupid law
I live in PA and never heard that
you forgot one thing; OKC...MADE IN U.S.A. S&W.....china
Did he just say IKEA is an Italian company
well i did like these baonets for several reasons until you said they were both not full tang,i think the price is way too high for a knife thats got the issues you pointed out.Perhaps cold steel will make one that is full tang and without the issues.
Right on
Its not ok buying italian cars, unless you have a crush on your local italian car repairsman or in some rare cases woman.
I own many S&W knives. They are OK, some better than others. I own a couple Ontario military knives. Apples and oranges. The Ontario knives are top notch. You really do get what you pay for. I wouldn't get the S&W bayonet. Pony up and get the Ontario M9. Yes, it's more expensive but worth every penny.
You can still cut threw branches and wood with the bayonet it won’t break at least with the Ontario I do it all day I use the saw back as well maybe not with the smith and Wesson would probably get destroyed
Didn't know ikea was Italian?
I couldn't imagine breaking a bandit blade on a tin can, no matter what kind of steel, my hound dogs demolish tin cans in seconds.
Let me know when a light saber that can actually cut something comes out.
Hell no
Because I want to be the first want to own it Lol
@@CRSFirearms look up hack smith. It’s pretty cool
IKEA is swedish just saying!! The can opener..lol
Practically the same thing lol
good review, i would say tho that the grind profile is claimed to be flat beveled so that could be why the one you got looked the way it did
every video I’ve seen of people reviewing the OKC M9 people have said the blade is dull or rusted and chewed up where are y’all getting these from I bought it straight from a okc dealer and mine is perfect.