Kicker KEY 4 Channel AMP Install - 2022 Subaru BRZ/GR86 🔉
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- Опубліковано 8 кві 2023
- Since we installed the new Rockford Fosgate Speakers and the Cerwin Vega Subwoofer, I noticed the factory radio wasn't outputting enough to use its full potential. I went ahead and installed a Kicker Key 4 Channel Amplifier to really dial in the new speakers. SUCH A GAME CHANGER. It sounds better than even my aftermarket radio in my old FRS. I would highly recommend this upgrade even for the stock speakers. It really changes the sound profile! Enjoy the install!
Everything I used is below:
Kicker KEY 200.4: amzn.to/3o2tjXC
Harness Adaptor 1: amzn.to/40LdF17
Harness Adaptor 2: amzn.to/3zP3k8k
KICKER KEY Setup Video: • KICKER Key Install Video
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Track: Janji - Heroes Tonight (feat. Johnning) [NCS Release]
Music provided by NoCopyrightSounds.
Watch: • Janji - Heroes Tonight...
Free Download / Stream: ncs.io/ht - Розваги
Please change the batteries in your smoke detectors.
Thanks for looking out!
Great work and information. I dig your content.
Awesome! Thank you! 🤘🏽
TY for the video! I've been looking at one for the widebody.
If the system was overall stock, would just this restore the part of the signal that Toyota cuts off to the back speakers? Asking as I would then like to also upgrade the rear speakers to maybe even a 4" with a broader range.
I believe so. It affect both from and rear signal.
I been trying to find something on the stereo setup for months cuz no one really has the car yet so it’s been rough finding install videos I found an install for how to take out the stereo but not the wiring thank you so much bro!!! I do have one question I’m waiting for the amp to be back in stock so I’m the mean time can I use a stock deck amplifier adapter add on connect the the speaker wires to the adapter plug in rca and run my amp like that? And if so I need help with what wires are front left front right positive and neg wiring cuz idk what wires are what? Anyway you can help me with this
Glad I could help! You should be able to use an add on adaptor for an amp. Left front = White/WhiteBlack. Right front = Grey/GreyBlack. Good luck & thanks for watching!
Hey, need some input. I am thinking about running the 200.4 in bi amp mode to power a component speaker up front and a 500.1 to power the sub, and I want to leave the original amplifier to power the back speaker and the two midranges that is arethe dash next to the original tweeters. Do you think that would work? how can I do that? I am planning to install everything in the trunk.
Sounds like a great plan! While I've done some research on the Kicker setup, I'm not a professional.
From what I know, you would have to run wires for the midrange speakers in the dash and the rear speakers to the factory amp since it only powers the door speakers and dash tweeters from the factory. I would almost recommend just adding an amp for the whole system instead of separating the system. That's why I chose the Kicker KEY for its simplicity.
Honestly, for the best advice tailored to your dream setup, I recommend consulting with an audio specialist. They can ensure everything is optimized for your chosen setup. Best of luck with your installation!
TY for the quick follow up, Sub'd! Looks like ill be dropping this in the widebody in the near future
Hey man quick question! Are you hearing hissing noises coming from the amp or speakers when music is not playing?
I do. It goes away when the car is off. It’s something I’ve just gotten used to. I think all cars do it but since it has more power, it’s more noticeable.
Did you use the kicker provided power cable 20a fuse?
You know, the 20a fuse was not included with my kit. Must have been removed as I purchased it open box. Haven't had any issues without it.
When will these be back in stock. Been sold out for months and kickers website doesn't say when they will be back.
I would recommend checking with your local Best Buy’s. They might have some sitting on shelf’s as “open box/returns”
Awesome video. Thanks for all the hard work you put in to film it. I'm currently filming doing a fiberglass Enclosure for a sub on my BR86, it's a pain!
Just got one quick question. Is the harness coming off the head unit going directly to the speakers, or is it going through the amp in the back? Did you bypass the amp?
Glad to help! The harness is still going into the factory amp. I put all the adjustments to 0 and tuned the kicker amps gains accordingly. Thanks for watching!
Currently unavailable on Amazon (shared link). Is that where you picked it up?
I did at the time. Just noticed it is no longer available. I am sure Crutchfield would have some in stock.
Crutchfield is currently out of stock as well
@@mattpapa03 Welll this is awkward… somebody has to have it!
@@Catalyst4k it sold out cause your video
Do you have any write up on corresponding PIN number for all 4 speakers and a remote?
Sorry, I don’t. I used information on the 1st gens to know where the pins are. They are identical.
@@Catalyst4kdo you have a helpful link that can share? All I need to know is which pin is remote and all the + and -, I will run power from batt and ground somewhere
I don't :( I kind of just matched the colors and used a radio harness diagram to figure out where everything goes.
Did you have to connect the amp to the car battery or are you running it through the radio power via the harness?
Through radio power.
@@Catalyst4k awesome, thanks!
@swp_sting3r You’re welcome!
do you have the original amp in the trunk? i have a gr86 premium and I want to upgrade the whole system, speakers, amp and subwoofer and I would like to do it in the least invasive way. I'm afraid of taking to a audio store and end up with them messing with the original wires. I want to have it done without messing the original wires. Is there any ready to use cable so i don't have to do all this soldering?
Thanks for watching! I do have the factory amp in the back. There is no current ready to use cable that I know of. Making the jumper harness shown in the video would be the less invasive way. It would take some soldering but it will 100% be worth it.
@@Catalyst4k im lost here, you added the new amp on the front, but you still have the old one in the trunk? Is it on? If not, why didn’t you do the same job in the trunk, making your custom harness and connecting to the cable that goes into the OEM amp?
I’m planning to do the harness and connect to the cable in the trunk, remove the original amp and add an aftermarket to power speakers and subwoofer. Also run a new power cable to run this new amp. So I would use only the signal cable from the original amp, the power cable would be disconnected, does it sound right?
I'm sure you saw my other reply but if you wire it from the amp in the back, you will be missing the rear speaker wires. That's why I used the wires behind the radio.
Will this work with a powered sub already harnessed in where the old sub was?
I’m not entirely sure.
@@Catalyst4k So, I got it all installed, and I've got power to the amp, but the head unit has no power. The power and ground for all harnesses are connected, and if I pull the amp and put it back to stock the radio powers up. Hard to tell in your video where the power was or what I could be missing. When you corrected your fix with the blue wire, the harness I got had that wire looped in on itself over to the other blue wire... Could that be my problem? It also didn't look like you had the amp powered separately to the battery as I'd expect with any amp, you just had it wired into the harness. Any help you can give would be appreciated.
does this go to the car battery?
Thanks for watching! It does not. It pulls power directly from the head unit harness.
Did you have to do any repining in the harness?
I did!
What did you have to repin? Just the blue wire in the video? Also what was it doing or not doing when you realized you need to add that wire? Having issues with my 23 WRX harness.
does the car have StarLink?
Thanks for watching, yes it does have Starlink.
@@Catalyst4k IF you have starlink like I do, do you wire it after the starlink module ? I believe this amp has a load resistor built in correct? I have that terrible H/K system. I'm trying to bypass all of the speakers minus the factory sub.
I wired it in-between the radio and speaker lines. It worked for me, and the Starlink system did not interfere.
My theory is if you do it the same way I did, you would have it amplifying the whole system in addition to the factory Harmon Kardon. My thoughts are that Kicker mic and auto EQ will adjust the signal and equalize everything.
Let me know what you ended up doing.
Why dont you go al the way where the factory amp is located (trunk), and just replace it?? it is not possible?
That’s a good point. Just don’t want mess to much with the factory components.
@@Catalyst4k sooo you dont want to mess with the factory components, but you are ok with tear down half of the dash? doesnt make any sense to me.
That’s the same question I have, so what happened to the original amp, is it being used for something or just unplugged?
Looking back at this comment, from my research, if I replaced the factory amp in the back, it would only power the front door speakers and tweeters. I connected the Kicker amp at the radio so it can amplify the whole system not just the front as the factory amp does.
It's still amplifying the front speakers in addition to the kicker amp. With the kicker mic and eq, it levels the system out.
Kicker Key Setup and Tuning: ua-cam.com/video/ubVgDqX0jwI/v-deo.htmlsi=ZI_A6kPao3_S2x55