No kidding, most people making videos on YT are totally clueless how annoying and distracting their insistence on putting stupid music into their videos….. But here, none of that…. Good job for not doing that!:)
Man just thank you for doing these videos. You've saved my ass with these things. I've went from remodeling my bathroom to doing side jobs because people have saw the photos I've posted of the completed remodel and have contacted me wanting work done. Luckily you've taught me well because I need the side jobs because I need the money, got my wedding coming up in October and you've helped me make that possible. Just know that in doing these simple things you've helped me reach a lifetime goal. Thank you bud and your damn good at what you do, God bless you!!!
“Against my own advice….. you know, YOLO!” 🤣🤣🤣 I found this channel by ‘happy accident’ - searching for a topic to get back up to speed in renovating- and after the first couple videos, I realized I really like the way this man is real, showing mistakes, forgetting what he was trying to make a point in saying and little quirky comments. By far my favorite guy to watch while refreshing my knowledge on mudding drywall.
As a DIY guy I redid 2 rooms in my house using mesh tape and USG all purpose mud and have had no problems with it. I find paper tape much harder to lay down and get the initial coat on without having air pockets.
Mesh tape tip; After putting mesh tape down spray it with spray glue, that keeps those little loose ends from standing up when you smear on the mud that ends up as those little dots after sanding that'll show all the way through paint, the spray glue trick will save you plenty of headaches when using mesh tape.
@@dukecraig2402 does that cause problems down the line, say in 10 years? I like this tip, just wanted to make sure. Also, what spray glue did you have success with?
As a noob who has had problems with paper tape lifting off, I find the mesh tape a lot less error prone because I lack the experience to get the right amount of mud underneath the paper tape; too much and the joint sticks up proud, too little and there isn't enough adhesion. With the mesh I just coat it enough to hide the tape and I know it will work.
With too much under the paper tape just squeeze it all out. You really cant put too much because your going to squeeze it all out, Too little mud is the problem and you might want it a little more wet to saturate the paper ( well it should be a little saturated at least)
I pre mud with mesh tape because even tho the tape is self adhesive... It usually doesn't stick so the pre mud not only fills the joints but holds the tape in place for sure. Also when you have big gaps you double tape the joint offsetting the mesh by half a row. Been veneer plastering and joint compounding in New England for over 20 years and this is how we do it.
This is another helpful video. I need to do a final bathroom remodel that will require drywalling. I'll need to find his videos on which muds to use for which jobs. I tend to go to Menards or HomeDepot and buy a bucket of mud. I need to find a refresher on which mud to use when.
Love the video! As a long time finisher I agree with the setting mud IF you need to use mesh tape. It should be avoided if possible because Mesh tape is for Plaster where you have a base coat and top coat where the mess has a 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch coverage over the mesh tape. It's mainly because if you have any movement it will crack much faster than paper tape. I use a lot of Quickset on jobs for taping and 1st coat just because of the durability of it. I also coat screws and nails with it and in most times just double wipe them the 1st time if they bubble with excess mud. I'll also give them a quick scrape after the 1st coat dries. For some of the comments below the trick is to do tighter coats so you have to sand less. When you get good at finishing you should have a very minimal amount of sanding to do. Basically be able to just rub the edges with your fingers to buff the mud to paper transition. This way you dont rough up the drywall paper sanding and then need to sand again after you prime the surface. If you sand too much and fuzz the paper you will see it no matter how many times you paint it. Thanks for the videos.
Actually if you put mud down first like with paper tape before you put mesh tape down it won't crack anymore often than paper tape does. Hardly anyone knows that with mesh tape you're really supposed to put mud down first, the adhesive on the one side of mesh tape is not for sticking it to the drywall, the only reason it's on the tape is to keep the roll from falling apart and "birdnesting", unlike paper when the fiber tape is rolled up it wants to straighten out, the adhesive is only on it to keep it from doing that and becoming a big mess, if you contact the tape manufacturers they'll tell you the proper way to use it is to put mud down first just like paper tape.
@@dukecraig2402 This is news to me. Bought some self sticking mesh today. I had no idea it was peel and stick. Never again! Anyway, the peel and stick seems to go against what you are saying. Actually, I do not like working with any mesh tape. I always seem to have trouble getting it covered in a timely manner without a lot of mud.
I now have some mesh tape that is not self adhesive. I do mot like dealing with mesh tape much at all. Just seems like it takes more mud to cover it. Been doing some patching and repairing in a rental apartment lately mostly with paper tape and ProForm mud. I am no pro by a long shot, but I have done some very good drywall hanging and finishing. That being said, I have never had such a hard time getting the results I want.
Ben, Thank You.. You help me clarify when to use mesh verse paper tape. My wife was listening in while I watched the video.. Her comment was " He is funny " . THANK you again for making your videos educational, informative and entertaining with your humor!! Keep up the good work!
@@rickyperkins232 East Coast US they have it Home Depot, but not Lowe’s, and of course at drywall supply shops. It’s really, really good stuff, but absolutely unforgiving to mistakes.
I use mesh for my joints, for patches, i even use mesh in my corners. And a tip for joining new board to old board - use a fast drying roll on primer to coat the seams... you'd be surprised how much of a dif it makes
Being a newbie, I think I’ll stick to hot mud & all purpose. I prefer sanding out the high spots if possible & floating out the rough spots. Will use mesh tape when needed but will usually use paper tape. Get it done step-by-step step. May take longer but it WILL look good when it’s finished.
Absolutely. I stuck firmly to the step-by-step as well, because it always produced a great end product. It was only after spending a little quality time with some real professionals did I start to see some speed-increasing methods that made some sense. But on jobs of any size I still stick to the steps.
Hot mud when you are in a hurry, but generally hot mud is almost impossible to sand. Can be great for a first coat but unless it's a quick fix I prefer general all purpose. Even the lightweight has it's drawbacks.
You cant just stick to all purpose. You need durabond when you need to ensure that the seam wont crack. Such as from going from plaster/plasterboard to drywall, OR if you are patching a spot that has already cracked.
I use paper tape on inside corners only. I use mesh and Speed set mud for 1st 2 coats on all seams. Final coat is premixed easy sand mud. It works for me just fine. i do pack the large gaps with speedset also prior to any taping. I love SPEED SET MUD for its strength and no shrinkage aspects. most of the time i use 45min. as i can usually use half a bucket just before it starts to set up. and by the time i get the 1st coat laid out its dry enough to start the second coat at the beginning
in kitchen sometime I mix fine tile grout (unsanded) with latex paint and use that to bond the mesh. It works in bathrooms as well to bond the mesh tape to cement board. Ive done dozens of houses that way and NO ISSUES.
I was taught to undercoat mesh tape. The glue they use is temporary and weak and the thin undercoat makes for a continuous strip of mud to adhere to and so you can get mud deeper into the voids first. The mesh is to reinforce the mud, not hold the joint and I think that's why so many people have it fail. The only time I’ve only had mesh fail when undercoated when the joint was shifting really bad (heaving). The glue is nice to put everything in place while cutting it to size however, or to keep it on a ceiling as you work. I hope FibaFuze comes out with a tacky sided version (and gets cheaper). In that case the glue might even help it not release fibers so you could freely touch it
I love that you don't edit out the parts where you lost your train of thought. It makes you so much more personable and relatable. We are so much more interested in what you are teaching us than we are concerned that your'e not perfect. And you do a really good job of teaching us. This is the sixth video of yours I've watched and I won't be using most of what I've learned. I just like learning different things and since I bought a house, I figure it won't hurt and maybe some day when a contractor is telling me a bunch of BS, I'll know it because I have.
Our home had the sewer back up, so the bottom of the dry wall soaked dirty water. I cleaned up the space and had to cut out that wall and replace it. The space was super tight, no surface was flat, it was very low, it had the floor edge, multiple corners both going inwards and outwards. Wasn't very satisfied with my job. Just did my first layer and I'll add another layer when it gets dry before I sand it down. Hopefully it will look better.
I have learned a lot from you, you helped me do my kitchen remodel and that ceiling work sucked... too old to work above my head, but I did it. I recently put in a sliding door and that drywall came out perfect. Until our black lab pup licked all the mud off the wall, but I was able to fix that too.
Umm I got some contradictions. Don't use 90 on screws but 20, but you went ahead anyways with the 90. Don't use all purpose on fiber tape because? but you used the 90 on the paper tape because it was already mixed. The 90 wont sand because it gets hard like concrete but your close up doesn't look any different smooth wise than if you had used all purpose. I'm a house painter and jack of all trades kind of guy. I worked for and with a couple of other jack of all trades renovators, so I'm sure my technique isn't by the book. But I use all purpose for everything and more wet for taping then add Plaster of Paris for second and third coats. Mostly things work out. Are there really wrongs and wrights or just preferences and habits?
I completely renovated my house about 28 years ago, I used paper tape in the corners and fibertape on all the flat joints. I gave the joints a coat of a mud/plaster of paris mix to embed the mesh, and not one has failed. The mixture dries much harder than regular mud, gives you about 6 or 7 minutes to smooth out any rough spots as it’s setting, and depending how much plaster you put in, it can set in a few minutes to about an hour. I use this method because I don’t want to have a bag of 5 minute, 20 minute, 45 minute, durabond and regular mud kicking around.
I do a lot of historic restoration work, love the tan colored heavy duty mesh tape for repairing cracks or breaks in original plaster walls and also tying old plaster walls in to drywall or new plaster.
5:49 That’s the nicest “way” I’ve heard anyone actually call “those types of joints”…. Had an interesting day; as we showed up to a jobsite and ended up having to fix a bathroom that was grouted and tiled “in a way that wasn’t necessarily right”; so, was one of those days (meaning, didn’t know about this till 2 mins after walking on job, and wasn’t expecting it, but, THINGS HAPPEN). Do gotta say, when you walk into a shower that’s tiled ya kinda expect it to stay on the wall, not be on the shower floor, or having pieces of grout missing from sections of wall; & sadly, the company who first did this didn’t wanna do a call back and ………(ya get the cliff notes😉). Should have been doing minor drywall touch ups/repair, fixing door reveals, & final cleanup. IT MADE ME SMILE & LAUGH 😂 THX Ben, and do enjoy watching your vids b/c like your work, personality, & ya pull ppl in, and also like to pickup tips/tricks from others….as “can always learn something new”, is what I say; & the minute you stop is when ya might wanna think about some things😉 Have a good one, & hope knee feeling better✌🏻
@@tbag-2224 as not saying actual word for many reasons, but if truly don’t know. We refer to these types as “BLEEP” JOINTS. What Ben said was, and can Google, but usually referred to a boy/male that “a person born of parents not married to each other”, is definition from Google.
You see the sort of "V-Groove" shape from the plasterboards on the sides? When you cut a plasterboard, add this kind of "V-groove" so more mud can fill in 😉
The 'mud first' is an old timey idea. It was the way to use mesh before the self-adhesive stuff. Construction wise it makes no difference but self-adhesive mesh tape is just cleaner to work with.
Not sure if available in your area, but we use a product at work called Fiba Fuse! It’s a super thin easy to use fiber glass tape. It has been proven way stronger on patches and Butt seams than any other tape. It coats in 2 coats if you know what your doing. You can bed it in dura bond or any variation of lightweight, mid weight, or all purpose mud! We normally use No Coat on out side corners, paper at factories and inside corners and Fiba fuse on patches and butts. There’s 20 plus of us doing it every day with no call backs for 2 years running. Try it out!
He's used Fiba Fuse in other videos. I know he doesn't like it because of the fiberglass. Has to wear gloves or he breaks out. But he has demonstrated it a few times before. Think there might even be some in this reno. Way early on.
I actually quit using mesh tape. I use either paper tape for inside corners and I use FibaFuse tape for literally everything else lol I've come to really like the Fibafuse. It soaks up the mud and makes a very strong joint.
@@kmonnier I agree. The only thing that sucks is if you don't wear gloves you'll get itchy, but other than that, it's the best performing tape I've found thus far. Mesh tape is okay for patching a hole, but that's about it for me, everything can be accomplished with the Fibafuse.
I have only used fibafuse a few times, but really didnt like it much. Might be strong joint, but hated the fiberglass itch. Plus the mix i used with it was really hard to sand.
@@srharris88 i use it atleast once a week, you have to wear gloves, that's a must. what compound are you using? ever hot mud I've used sanded no problem.
Im a Contractor from ontario and I want to thank you for telling people they DONT need to Pre-Fill when using fiber Tape. Ive been proving people wrong on this for years. If you are going to take the time to pre fill Then just use PAPER tape on your 2nd coat. Like really. Time is money.
Actually just like with paper tape you should put mud down first before you apply mesh tape, I'm not talking about pre filling, which you will be doing, but you're really supposed to wipe a layer of mud on the drywall before applying mesh tape. The glue on mesh tape isn't there to stick it to the drywall like everyone thinks, it's only on the tape to keep it from unraveling and turning into a big mess, unlike paper which will stay curled up when you wind it around something the mesh tape wants to straighten itself out much more than paper does so they put the glue on it to keep it from happening. If you contact the tape manufacturer's they'll tell you the proper way to use mesh tape is just like paper tape, apply a layer of mud, put the tape on and then apply another layer of mud over it.
I use mesh a lot because it allows the mud to squeeze into any gaps which seems it would be stronger. I did notice that the tape will move easily when covered with mud, so I am careful to have a reasonable amount of mud on it before scraping so I don't catch it.
Awesome video, thank you. As for mesh tape being harder than paper, my biggest issue with paper is I always seem to get bubbles. Always. I can handle all the other stuff but I can't seem to avoid the bubbles. I think I need to at least try the mesh tape approach and maybe I'll have more success
Update: just did some repairs using mesh tape for the first time instead of paper and, so far, the results are much much better. I also did a mix of easy sand 90 to pre-fill and tape embed, and then all purpose dust control for finish coats. Zero bubbles, no raised areas making it harder to get a level surface. I know pros can do paper perfectly but I think I'll avoid it for now and keep using mesh or fibafuse for how infrequently I need to make repairs.
Great video. I've got to switch to the hawk & trowel. The biomechanics of my bread pan kill my wrist & the hawk looks like it cleans easier than the corners of my bread pan.
What amazed me is how much faster he was able to work at the end when he stopped talking. He was like 10 times the speed, like in those old silent movies. I've never seen anyone work that fast!
Try using a 4”roller instead of a (knife or trial) for mesh tape on the first pass with regular mud. Than with a knife quick set on the second pass. You’ll love the results
Hy Ben ! i sugest you something ! Prewet your drywall first and use more thik material ! You will need less coats ! And more time for sketboarding !Have fun !
Its nice to be able to see the detail of the finish on your first pass. I was trying to make it look too good and getting frustrated. I'm working on a remodel that makes your "Nasty remodel" look great! I could kick whoever hung this cabin!!!
I can understand behind cabinets but alll I do is repairs daily and I repair more mesh tape jobs than anything. Just prefill and tape it the right way and you dont have to worry. Dont try to cover a crack with tape with holes in it that you can see through.
I think you're awesome. I've taken some things that I use everyday. My question is, if the wall will be covered by cabinets why do anything at all regardless using mesh or paper tape? Just wondering
Other than patching holes in walls caused by door knobs I find mesh tape to be useless. You call it strength in the joint because mesh is used, but I have seen mesh fail over and over. It will not hold a joint together or keep from spreading. Paper tape is best.
Dude, always a fan of your vids. I have been filling, taping and skimming all the way through with durabond… I am trying to eliminate sanding from my life, but have found that I can sand out durabond if I missed a spot floating the final coat. Is there any reason I SHOULDN’T be doing this? I realize it may not be for everybody but it has been working well for me… have I been hanging out with Kirk g too much?? 😂
When I was listening to the cartoon music playing while you were doing the fast forward part it made me think of Mr Roger’s Neighborhood and there was an episode where he used a hammer and tools. So I made an appropriate intro for your show. I probably can’t post it as UA-cam will block links but I will add it as a comment to this post. Probably only you will get to see it but it’s worth a laugh. :)
While a lot of people say you can't use hot mud with paper tape, Interior Vids on youtube did a test with paper tape and Pro Set 90 and it held up better than with taping mud iirc. Perhaps when you have time you can do a similar test to confirm?
Umm durabond is definitely able to be sanded and scraped. Most of the time though I just scrape it the day I apply it before it completely cures. It may be set but it definitely stands and scrapes not as easy as plus 3 or any easy sand obviously but it’s fairly easy. It’s like the difference between the easy sand and plus 3 you better hope you have a few coats of plus 3 on top of an easy sand if you want to sand it and not have any flashing. Lastly if you have too much water in your durabond it’s proven to have adhesion problems after setting/curing so really watch that mix Vancouver! Lol love your videos
My personal opinion the Hawk is easier than a pan. I'm a beginner but it's just nice for keeping mud mixed and moving. If I need more water I just dip my knife in my bucket and mix it up quick. The pan is harder to mix in. Cleaning the Hawk is easier too no corners. Only time hawk gives me trouble is if I get too soupy and don't watch I'm not letting the mud slide right off the end 😅🤣
Thanks for your videos man! I'm curious about wide skimming blades, like 24-32". Seems like it would save a ton of time and arm strain on a job like this where it's all multiple trowel widths. I've always done full durabond as a first coat even on all brand new rock, with mesh tape in the factories and paper everywhere else. Thought the durabond was considered "higher quality" as a base. Interesting points you bring up.
We used paper tape when doing remodel on our house and it puckered everywhere. My brother did most of it and while he had little to no experience, (he has no work during the winter months and needed money) I don’t blame him. I tore the paper tape off almost everywhere after I started seeing the puckering with almost no resistance and have replaced with mesh which will not leave as nice a finish, but I see no other choice. I do know that I hate drywall finishing. Really, really hate it. I’m a nurse and would rather administer 10 soap suds enemas daily than finish drywall.
Try Prefilling all joints and corners with easysand , paper tape all joints and corners with regular mud then easysand over the top, second coat easysand finish coat and cleanup corners with joint compound. Works great with the faster setting bags ie. 20 min 45 min or 5 min if you dare lol
Been finishing for over 20 years...I use different procedures depending on a lot if different factors...mainly the software the job to cut down on the number of trips there
Well done with the tutorial sir.. Qs.For torn mosquito net patching, can air still flow through sticky fiber glass mesh tape or is it fully blocked by a transparent adhesive layer in the tape?
Never used fast setting mud with the tape always the general purpose never had any issues. I'm only fixing small holes or cuts to open wall to run wires or plumbing. What worries me mess up and can't sand it and start over have to cut out a bigger hole around it.
Only time I use mesh is on shower flanges, I stick it directly to the flange to keep the durabond from squeezing through the flange and the drywall, then paper tape over that with more durabond. Call me Teflon (PTFE, Paper Tape For Everything) 😁
so, do you always paster the whole wall versus just the joints and nails? What is the advantage of that? Do you use one coat of general purpose mud and then skim it with topping mud. Sorry, if I am asking and you already said it in the video. You know how "bothersome" people can be. LOL Thanks, by the way. You ROCK. I really appreciate you!
Honestly, in England mesh tape is almost all that’s used. Obviously we 90% of the time plaster the whole wall and tape with mesh but I’ve seen far far more fails with paper tape in new builds that have been tape and jointed rather than skimmed. Same goes for the paper beads
That means that those performing the taping and jointing with paper tape don’t know what they’re doing. Blunt yes, but here in Canada everything is taped and jointed with paper and the result is positive
@@sundog8772 so it’s not that the mesh tape works with multi finish plaster just fine (and ive done hundreds of patches with mesh and never had a call back), but that the paper tapers did it wrong. Hmmm
@@sundog8772 of course, angle beads typically 45 degree ones that have failed, along with a fair share of 90s, paper tape in the corner where the wall meets the ceiling, hugely common in the new builds where tape and jointing is used. I’ll go out on a limb and say that I can’t recall ever having to rectify a plastered mesh tape corner or joint. Galv beads I’ve had fail yes so they’re not bullet proof but that’s typically from a big Impact to the corner
@@NiktheEnglishGreekCypriot Gotcha. Plaster is no doubt a superior product to mud and tape; it’s stronger, more fire resistant, less prone to mould growth and provided a great substrate for painting. I think it’s also fair to say that to achieve a great finish with mudding and taping more skill is required - that’s not saying plastering is easy, lot’s of skill and experience is needed to do a good job. Perhaps for the above reasons plaster and mesh is used more often than mud and paper tape. Stuff like failures where the wall meets the ceiling can be alleviated by sound prep work such as pre-filling any gaps with confill/setting compound and applying the mud to the paper tape with the right consistency etc. Here in Canada it is strictly mud and paper tape and the standard is high
Do you have a video showing how to patch an outlet edge that got broken? I’d need a super duper jumbo outlet cover to hide it 😂 many thanks for your tutorials.
Finally, a tutorial I can actually watch. No obnoxious music. No schtick. Covers all my questions. Honest.
And no short videos from “ The Office”
If you don't care what your wife thinks about your "DYI" job then go ahead and do as this guy does!!
No kidding, most people making videos on YT are totally clueless how annoying and distracting their insistence on putting stupid music into their videos…..
But here, none of that…. Good job for not doing that!:)
These lessons are super helpful. Thanks for taking the time and effort to do such a nice job.
Man just thank you for doing these videos. You've saved my ass with these things. I've went from remodeling my bathroom to doing side jobs because people have saw the photos I've posted of the completed remodel and have contacted me wanting work done. Luckily you've taught me well because I need the side jobs because I need the money, got my wedding coming up in October and you've helped me make that possible. Just know that in doing these simple things you've helped me reach a lifetime goal. Thank you bud and your damn good at what you do, God bless you!!!
Awesome! So happy to hear you’re putting those skills to good use!
happy wedding month
“Against my own advice….. you know, YOLO!” 🤣🤣🤣
I found this channel by ‘happy accident’ - searching for a topic to get back up to speed in renovating- and after the first couple videos, I realized I really like the way this man is real, showing mistakes, forgetting what he was trying to make a point in saying and little quirky comments. By far my favorite guy to watch while refreshing my knowledge on mudding drywall.
As a DIY'er, I've been doing it all wrong with uneven joint for all these years.......great tips and technique....THANK YOU...
As a DIY guy I redid 2 rooms in my house using mesh tape and USG all purpose mud and have had no problems with it. I find paper tape much harder to lay down and get the initial coat on without having air pockets.
watering/thinning down the mud, will make the paper tape lay down way easier.
I’m the same. Did three rooms with mesh and Easy sand 90 and still looks great after 3 years. Ceiling and walls. Found paper tape harder to deal with.
I use both but when using paper tape i wet the tape and then put it on the mud and its much easier to work with.
Mesh tape tip;
After putting mesh tape down spray it with spray glue, that keeps those little loose ends from standing up when you smear on the mud that ends up as those little dots after sanding that'll show all the way through paint, the spray glue trick will save you plenty of headaches when using mesh tape.
@@dukecraig2402 does that cause problems down the line, say in 10 years? I like this tip, just wanted to make sure. Also, what spray glue did you have success with?
As a noob who has had problems with paper tape lifting off, I find the mesh tape a lot less error prone because I lack the experience to get the right amount of mud underneath the paper tape; too much and the joint sticks up proud, too little and there isn't enough adhesion. With the mesh I just coat it enough to hide the tape and I know it will work.
With too much under the paper tape just squeeze it all out. You really cant put too much because your going to squeeze it all out, Too little mud is the problem and you might want it a little more wet to saturate the paper ( well it should be a little saturated at least)
*ben:* “make sure your joint is full”
*snoop:* nods understandingly
Appreciate all you've taught me. Just did my first garage and it turned out perfect.
Thanks for this video. Put this knowledge to work right after I watched it on a repair. Cheers Vancouver Carpenter!
I pre mud with mesh tape because even tho the tape is self adhesive... It usually doesn't stick so the pre mud not only fills the joints but holds the tape in place for sure. Also when you have big gaps you double tape the joint offsetting the mesh by half a row. Been veneer plastering and joint compounding in New England for over 20 years and this is how we do it.
I prefer your way, but since hes using something stronger than all purpose mud I guess that works.
That's probably a strong adhesive tape too hahaha
This is another helpful video. I need to do a final bathroom remodel that will require drywalling. I'll need to find his videos on which muds to use for which jobs. I tend to go to Menards or HomeDepot and buy a bucket of mud. I need to find a refresher on which mud to use when.
Love the video! As a long time finisher I agree with the setting mud IF you need to use mesh tape. It should be avoided if possible because Mesh tape is for Plaster where you have a base coat and top coat where the mess has a 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch coverage over the mesh tape. It's mainly because if you have any movement it will crack much faster than paper tape. I use a lot of Quickset on jobs for taping and 1st coat just because of the durability of it. I also coat screws and nails with it and in most times just double wipe them the 1st time if they bubble with excess mud. I'll also give them a quick scrape after the 1st coat dries. For some of the comments below the trick is to do tighter coats so you have to sand less. When you get good at finishing you should have a very minimal amount of sanding to do. Basically be able to just rub the edges with your fingers to buff the mud to paper transition. This way you dont rough up the drywall paper sanding and then need to sand again after you prime the surface. If you sand too much and fuzz the paper you will see it no matter how many times you paint it. Thanks for the videos.
Exactly.....mesh doesnt except movement, why spark perforated embed tape is used instead.......not to mention inside corners.
Actually if you put mud down first like with paper tape before you put mesh tape down it won't crack anymore often than paper tape does.
Hardly anyone knows that with mesh tape you're really supposed to put mud down first, the adhesive on the one side of mesh tape is not for sticking it to the drywall, the only reason it's on the tape is to keep the roll from falling apart and "birdnesting", unlike paper when the fiber tape is rolled up it wants to straighten out, the adhesive is only on it to keep it from doing that and becoming a big mess, if you contact the tape manufacturers they'll tell you the proper way to use it is to put mud down first just like paper tape.
@@dukecraig2402 This is news to me.
Bought some self sticking mesh today.
I had no idea it was peel and stick. Never again!
Anyway, the peel and stick seems to go against what you are saying.
Actually, I do not like working with any mesh tape.
I always seem to have trouble getting it covered in a timely manner without a lot of mud.
I now have some mesh tape that is not self adhesive.
I do mot like dealing with mesh tape much at all. Just seems like it takes more mud to cover it.
Been doing some patching and repairing in a rental apartment lately mostly with paper tape and ProForm mud.
I am no pro by a long shot, but I have done some very good drywall hanging and finishing.
That being said, I have never had such a hard time getting the results I want.
Ben, Thank You.. You help me clarify when to use mesh verse paper tape. My wife was listening in while I watched the video.. Her comment was " He is funny
" . THANK you again for making your videos educational, informative and entertaining with your humor!! Keep up the good work!
I'm a noob and I'm trying to save money redoing my bathroom by doing the work myself. This is really helpful. Thank you for making this video.
"Married out of wedlock"....That'd be pretty darn impressive! Also, great info. I've learned a ton from this series. Thank you!
Born out of wedlock🤷♂️
@@vancouvercarpenter I use mesh tape always and I never had a bubble or cracks
@@rickyperkins232 I swear with Dura90 and a little glue mixed in- you don’t even need tape lol. Stuff is stupid strong for a gyp product.
@@danervin2530 question I don't Remember seeing Duro 90 on the shelves. Is that a specialty product?
@@rickyperkins232 East Coast US they have it Home Depot, but not Lowe’s, and of course at drywall supply shops. It’s really, really good stuff, but absolutely unforgiving to mistakes.
I use mesh for my joints, for patches, i even use mesh in my corners.
And a tip for joining new board to old board - use a fast drying roll on primer to coat the seams... you'd be surprised how much of a dif it makes
Hi. What mid should I use for mesh because the all purpose is giving me a hard time.
Being a newbie, I think I’ll stick to hot mud & all purpose. I prefer sanding out the high spots if possible & floating out the rough spots. Will use mesh tape when needed but will usually use paper tape. Get it done step-by-step step. May take longer but it WILL look good when it’s finished.
Absolutely. I stuck firmly to the step-by-step as well, because it always produced a great end product. It was only after spending a little quality time with some real professionals did I start to see some speed-increasing methods that made some sense. But on jobs of any size I still stick to the steps.
Hot mud when you are in a hurry, but generally hot mud is almost impossible to sand. Can be great for a first coat but unless it's a quick fix I prefer general all purpose. Even the lightweight has it's drawbacks.
Don't forget, only hot mud should be used with mesh tape.
You cant just stick to all purpose. You need durabond when you need to ensure that the seam wont crack. Such as from going from plaster/plasterboard to drywall, OR if you are patching a spot that has already cracked.
I use paper tape on inside corners only. I use mesh and Speed set mud for 1st 2 coats on all seams. Final coat is premixed easy sand mud. It works for me just fine. i do pack the large gaps with speedset also prior to any taping. I love SPEED SET MUD for its strength and no shrinkage aspects. most of the time i use 45min. as i can usually use half a bucket just before it starts to set up. and by the time i get the 1st coat laid out its dry enough to start the second coat at the beginning
in kitchen sometime I mix fine tile grout (unsanded) with latex paint and use that to bond the mesh. It works in bathrooms as well to bond the mesh tape to cement board. Ive done dozens of houses that way and NO ISSUES.
I was taught to undercoat mesh tape. The glue they use is temporary and weak and the thin undercoat makes for a continuous strip of mud to adhere to and so you can get mud deeper into the voids first. The mesh is to reinforce the mud, not hold the joint and I think that's why so many people have it fail. The only time I’ve only had mesh fail when undercoated when the joint was shifting really bad (heaving).
The glue is nice to put everything in place while cutting it to size however, or to keep it on a ceiling as you work.
I hope FibaFuze comes out with a tacky sided version (and gets cheaper). In that case the glue might even help it not release fibers so you could freely touch it
I love that you don't edit out the parts where you lost your train of thought. It makes you so much more personable and relatable. We are so much more interested in what you are teaching us than we are concerned that your'e not perfect. And you do a really good job of teaching us. This is the sixth video of yours I've watched and I won't be using most of what I've learned. I just like learning different things and since I bought a house, I figure it won't hurt and maybe some day when a contractor is telling me a bunch of BS, I'll know it because I have.
Thank you so much for sharing your skill with all of us. I love your teaching style! I’ve learned so much from you. 🙏🏼
Get a room you two
Our home had the sewer back up, so the bottom of the dry wall soaked dirty water. I cleaned up the space and had to cut out that wall and replace it. The space was super tight, no surface was flat, it was very low, it had the floor edge, multiple corners both going inwards and outwards. Wasn't very satisfied with my job. Just did my first layer and I'll add another layer when it gets dry before I sand it down. Hopefully it will look better.
This answers a whole bunch of questions I had about Leah tape. Now I understand. TYVM!
I have learned a lot from you, you helped me do my kitchen remodel and that ceiling work sucked... too old to work above my head, but I did it. I recently put in a sliding door and that drywall came out perfect. Until our black lab pup licked all the mud off the wall, but I was able to fix that too.
Sorry your pup decided to make a mess of your wall, but i hope it learned a lesson from it.
Labs really will eat anything! I'm wondering about the poor pupper digesting the mud!
I have so much drywall to do in my house that I follow every video that you do and I see good results
Umm I got some contradictions. Don't use 90 on screws but 20, but you went ahead anyways with the 90. Don't use all purpose on fiber tape because? but you used the 90 on the paper tape because it was already mixed. The 90 wont sand because it gets hard like concrete but your close up doesn't look any different smooth wise than if you had used all purpose. I'm a house painter and jack of all trades kind of guy. I worked for and with a couple of other jack of all trades renovators, so I'm sure my technique isn't by the book. But I use all purpose for everything and more wet for taping then add Plaster of Paris for second and third coats. Mostly things work out. Are there really wrongs and wrights or just preferences and habits?
I completely renovated my house about 28 years ago, I used paper tape in the corners and fibertape on all the flat joints. I gave the joints a coat of a mud/plaster of paris mix to embed the mesh, and not one has failed. The mixture dries much harder than regular mud, gives you about 6 or 7 minutes to smooth out any rough spots as it’s setting, and depending how much plaster you put in, it can set in a few minutes to about an hour.
I use this method because I don’t want to have a bag of 5 minute, 20 minute, 45 minute, durabond and regular mud kicking around.
Fibertape and mesh tape are different products.
I do enjoy your videos. Can’t see myself doing any of this type of work but I find watching you doing it fascinating and oddly satisfying!
I do a lot of historic restoration work, love the tan colored heavy duty mesh tape for repairing cracks or breaks in original plaster walls and also tying old plaster walls in to drywall or new plaster.
Another great video, you've helped my drywall game immensely! Thank you!
Thanks so much for this. So many people (contractors!!) just use mesh tape and all purpose compound straight out the bucket.
complete newbie here looking to do some plastering, your videos are super helpful mate, lots of great tips - thanks for making them
5:49 That’s the nicest “way” I’ve heard anyone actually call “those types of joints”….
Had an interesting day; as we showed up to a jobsite and ended up having to fix a bathroom that was grouted and tiled “in a way that wasn’t necessarily right”; so, was one of those days (meaning, didn’t know about this till 2 mins after walking on job, and wasn’t expecting it, but, THINGS HAPPEN). Do gotta say, when you walk into a shower that’s tiled ya kinda expect it to stay on the wall, not be on the shower floor, or having pieces of grout missing from sections of wall; & sadly, the company who first did this didn’t wanna do a call back and ………(ya get the cliff notes😉).
Should have been doing minor drywall touch ups/repair, fixing door reveals, & final cleanup.
IT MADE ME SMILE & LAUGH 😂
THX Ben, and do enjoy watching your vids b/c like your work, personality, & ya pull ppl in, and also like to pickup tips/tricks from others….as “can always learn something new”, is what I say; & the minute you stop is when ya might wanna think about some things😉
Have a good one, & hope knee feeling better✌🏻
I don't think I get what the term actually is ...over my head I guess
@@tbag-2224 as not saying actual word for many reasons, but if truly don’t know. We refer to these types as “BLEEP” JOINTS.
What Ben said was, and can Google, but usually referred to a boy/male that “a person born of parents not married to each other”, is definition from Google.
@@Aepek copy
been watching you for 5 years appreciate your work
Laying your knife flat when ripping mesh tape was the best tip. I always struggled ripping it with the knife.
You see the sort of "V-Groove" shape from the plasterboards on the sides? When you cut a plasterboard, add this kind of "V-groove" so more mud can fill in 😉
The 'mud first' is an old timey idea. It was the way to use mesh before the self-adhesive stuff. Construction wise it makes no difference but self-adhesive mesh tape is just cleaner to work with.
the idea of mud first is to get the mud down into the joint joining the boards when you smooth out paper tape it forces the mud in even deeper
Not sure if available in your area, but we use a product at work called Fiba Fuse! It’s a super thin easy to use fiber glass tape. It has been proven way stronger on patches and Butt seams than any other tape. It coats in 2 coats if you know what your doing. You can bed it in dura bond or any variation of lightweight, mid weight, or all purpose mud! We normally use No Coat on out side corners, paper at factories and inside corners and Fiba fuse on patches and butts. There’s 20 plus of us doing it every day with no call backs for 2 years running. Try it out!
He's used Fiba Fuse in other videos. I know he doesn't like it because of the fiberglass. Has to wear gloves or he breaks out.
But he has demonstrated it a few times before. Think there might even be some in this reno. Way early on.
Dude you make it look so easy - very skillful, love the vids 👍
I actually quit using mesh tape. I use either paper tape for inside corners and I use FibaFuse tape for literally everything else lol I've come to really like the Fibafuse. It soaks up the mud and makes a very strong joint.
agree, it lays down thin and is dimensionally stable.
@@kmonnier I agree. The only thing that sucks is if you don't wear gloves you'll get itchy, but other than that, it's the best performing tape I've found thus far. Mesh tape is okay for patching a hole, but that's about it for me, everything can be accomplished with the Fibafuse.
I have only used fibafuse a few times, but really didnt like it much. Might be strong joint, but hated the fiberglass itch. Plus the mix i used with it was really hard to sand.
@@srharris88 i use it atleast once a week, you have to wear gloves, that's a must. what compound are you using? ever hot mud I've used sanded no problem.
@@srharris88 Not being ignorant, or rude, but sounds like user error, it's a small learning curve, but in my opinion it's much better than mesh tape.
Im a Contractor from ontario and I want to thank you for telling people they DONT need to Pre-Fill when using fiber Tape. Ive been proving people wrong on this for years. If you are going to take the time to pre fill Then just use PAPER tape on your 2nd coat. Like really. Time is money.
Actually just like with paper tape you should put mud down first before you apply mesh tape, I'm not talking about pre filling, which you will be doing, but you're really supposed to wipe a layer of mud on the drywall before applying mesh tape.
The glue on mesh tape isn't there to stick it to the drywall like everyone thinks, it's only on the tape to keep it from unraveling and turning into a big mess, unlike paper which will stay curled up when you wind it around something the mesh tape wants to straighten itself out much more than paper does so they put the glue on it to keep it from happening.
If you contact the tape manufacturer's they'll tell you the proper way to use mesh tape is just like paper tape, apply a layer of mud, put the tape on and then apply another layer of mud over it.
I use mesh a lot because it allows the mud to squeeze into any gaps which seems it would be stronger. I did notice that the tape will move easily when covered with mud, so I am careful to have a reasonable amount of mud on it before scraping so I don't catch it.
So I would stick mesh above the gap, then full in my joint compound and press them in? Would the joint compound squeeze through mesh?
@@conchim99 to a certain extent. I pre-fill the joint and then tape to ensure proper filling and bonding.
Durabond 90 is a great product. Never fails. abit more of a learning curve though!
Awesome video, thank you. As for mesh tape being harder than paper, my biggest issue with paper is I always seem to get bubbles. Always. I can handle all the other stuff but I can't seem to avoid the bubbles. I think I need to at least try the mesh tape approach and maybe I'll have more success
Update: just did some repairs using mesh tape for the first time instead of paper and, so far, the results are much much better. I also did a mix of easy sand 90 to pre-fill and tape embed, and then all purpose dust control for finish coats. Zero bubbles, no raised areas making it harder to get a level surface. I know pros can do paper perfectly but I think I'll avoid it for now and keep using mesh or fibafuse for how infrequently I need to make repairs.
Perfect! Doing a ceiling patch 16" by 6", Mesh Tape and sheet Rock 90 should work.
We call those joints" Bastard joints" here in California. Never heard of them being called a "married out of wedlock joint. " 😉😉😉
The man, the myth, the legend! Again, just making it look so damn easy lol!
Can tell your a pro. You make a difficult job look easy to do
In the UK we call the mesh tape scrim that's what most plasterers use to caulk and scrim joints.
“It’s pretty easy” while he’s doing the one thing I was just struggling with for an hour, hurts real bad. Lol. I’m an electrician. This is not easy 😂
U make me want to try a hawk n trawl I’m a finisher myself but I’ve only ever used a pan n knifes 👍
If you try it you will like it!
Great video. I've got to switch to the hawk & trowel. The biomechanics of my bread pan kill my wrist & the hawk looks like it cleans easier than the corners of my bread pan.
What amazed me is how much faster he was able to work at the end when he stopped talking. He was like 10 times the speed, like in those old silent movies. I've never seen anyone work that fast!
Try using a 4”roller instead of a (knife or trial) for mesh tape on the first pass with regular mud. Than with a knife quick set on the second pass. You’ll love the results
What kind of roller head? Sponge, or 3/8”? I’m assuming any smooth surface type would work
Your feathering skills are FIRE!!
Hy Ben ! i sugest you something ! Prewet your drywall first and use more thik material ! You will need less coats ! And more time for sketboarding !Have fun !
Its nice to be able to see the detail of the finish on your first pass. I was trying to make it look too good and getting frustrated. I'm working on a remodel that makes your "Nasty remodel" look great! I could kick whoever hung this cabin!!!
Thanks BEN! You ever use mesh tape in the corners, they have those mesh guns and corner tools.
I follow your advice and generally stick to paper tape.
thanks for the info, seen so many times diy use mesh tape improperly
I can understand behind cabinets but alll I do is repairs daily and I repair more mesh tape jobs than anything. Just prefill and tape it the right way and you dont have to worry. Dont try to cover a crack with tape with holes in it that you can see through.
hahahah i love this dude. Man I wish I work like this. Like whatever if i lose my train of thought forget it. Bro your great. Good job
This project may not be a pig when done... I hope folks realize that only a skilled tradesman like Ben could turn something like this around!
I think you're awesome. I've taken some things that I use everyday. My question is, if the wall will be covered by cabinets why do anything at all regardless using mesh or paper tape? Just wondering
Other than patching holes in walls caused by door knobs I find mesh tape to be useless. You call it strength in the joint because mesh is used, but I have seen mesh fail over and over. It will not hold a joint together or keep from spreading. Paper tape is best.
Dude, always a fan of your vids. I have been filling, taping and skimming all the way through with durabond… I am trying to eliminate sanding from my life, but have found that I can sand out durabond if I missed a spot floating the final coat. Is there any reason I SHOULDN’T be doing this? I realize it may not be for everybody but it has been working well for me… have I been hanging out with Kirk g too much?? 😂
I see a massive amount of skill in this video.
It's nice to see the flash settle down and got a real job 😆 I swear the guy looks like Barry Allen from the CW with dark hair
When I was listening to the cartoon music playing while you were doing the fast forward part it made me think of Mr Roger’s Neighborhood and there was an episode where he used a hammer and tools. So I made an appropriate intro for your show. I probably can’t post it as UA-cam will block links but I will add it as a comment to this post. Probably only you will get to see it but it’s worth a laugh. :)
I like the way you tape and coat in one day.
While a lot of people say you can't use hot mud with paper tape, Interior Vids on youtube did a test with paper tape and Pro Set 90 and it held up better than with taping mud iirc. Perhaps when you have time you can do a similar test to confirm?
This channel is a gold mine!
If you dont water it down you can use all purpose with mesh tape. I think the thinned down mud runs through the mesh and causes problems.
Master expert genius only dry wall videos I watched
You are so interesting! I am appreciating more and more your trade ! Just love it!👍🏿
Umm durabond is definitely able to be sanded and scraped. Most of the time though I just scrape it the day I apply it before it completely cures. It may be set but it definitely stands and scrapes not as easy as plus 3 or any easy sand obviously but it’s fairly easy. It’s like the difference between the easy sand and plus 3 you better hope you have a few coats of plus 3 on top of an easy sand if you want to sand it and not have any flashing. Lastly if you have too much water in your durabond it’s proven to have adhesion problems after setting/curing so really watch that mix Vancouver! Lol love your videos
FANTASTIC. Why didn’t I see this before I tried diy.😡
My personal opinion the Hawk is easier than a pan. I'm a beginner but it's just nice for keeping mud mixed and moving. If I need more water I just dip my knife in my bucket and mix it up quick. The pan is harder to mix in. Cleaning the Hawk is easier too no corners. Only time hawk gives me trouble is if I get too soupy and don't watch I'm not letting the mud slide right off the end 😅🤣
Thanks for your videos man!
I'm curious about wide skimming blades, like 24-32". Seems like it would save a ton of time and arm strain on a job like this where it's all multiple trowel widths.
I've always done full durabond as a first coat even on all brand new rock, with mesh tape in the factories and paper everywhere else. Thought the durabond was considered "higher quality" as a base. Interesting points you bring up.
We used paper tape when doing remodel on our house and it puckered everywhere. My brother did most of it and while he had little to no experience, (he has no work during the winter months and needed money) I don’t blame him. I tore the paper tape off almost everywhere after I started seeing the puckering with almost no resistance and have replaced with mesh which will not leave as nice a finish, but I see no other choice. I do know that I hate drywall finishing. Really, really hate it. I’m a nurse and would rather administer 10 soap suds enemas daily than finish drywall.
Try Prefilling all joints and corners with easysand , paper tape all joints and corners with regular mud then easysand over the top, second coat easysand finish coat and cleanup corners with joint compound. Works great with the faster setting bags ie. 20 min 45 min or 5 min if you dare lol
Been finishing for over 20 years...I use different procedures depending on a lot if different factors...mainly the software the job to cut down on the number of trips there
Man, if I could move that fast, I wouldn't mind rocking.
Well done with the tutorial sir.. Qs.For torn mosquito net patching, can air still flow through sticky fiber glass mesh tape or is it fully blocked by a transparent adhesive layer in the tape?
Never used fast setting mud with the tape always the general purpose never had any issues. I'm only fixing small holes or cuts to open wall to run wires or plumbing. What worries me mess up and can't sand it and start over have to cut out a bigger hole around it.
Only time I use mesh is on shower flanges, I stick it directly to the flange to keep the durabond from squeezing through the flange and the drywall, then paper tape over that with more durabond. Call me Teflon (PTFE, Paper Tape For Everything) 😁
Quick set has more plaster in it and plaster is hydraulic so it doesn’t shrink it expands
I just use all purpose and add a teeny bit of confil and a wee bit of water and it seems to hold up just fine long term.
Very helpful Ben!
so, do you always paster the whole wall versus just the joints and nails? What is the advantage of that? Do you use one coat of general purpose mud and then skim it with topping mud. Sorry, if I am asking and you already said it in the video. You know how "bothersome" people can be. LOL Thanks, by the way. You ROCK. I really appreciate you!
I use Dura-bond finish coating and I make 3 separate lite coats I don’t even sand them, white bag 20 minute
Honestly, in England mesh tape is almost all that’s used. Obviously we 90% of the time plaster the whole wall and tape with mesh but I’ve seen far far more fails with paper tape in new builds that have been tape and jointed rather than skimmed. Same goes for the paper beads
That means that those performing the taping and jointing with paper tape don’t know what they’re doing. Blunt yes, but here in Canada everything is taped and jointed with paper and the result is positive
@@sundog8772 so it’s not that the mesh tape works with multi finish plaster just fine (and ive done hundreds of patches with mesh and never had a call back), but that the paper tapers did it wrong. Hmmm
@@NiktheEnglishGreekCypriot You mentioned you’ve seen ‘far, far more fails’, could you explain the type of fails you’ve encountered?
@@sundog8772 of course, angle beads typically 45 degree ones that have failed, along with a fair share of 90s, paper tape in the corner where the wall meets the ceiling, hugely common in the new builds where tape and jointing is used. I’ll go out on a limb and say that I can’t recall ever having to rectify a plastered mesh tape corner or joint. Galv beads I’ve had fail yes so they’re not bullet proof but that’s typically from a big Impact to the corner
@@NiktheEnglishGreekCypriot Gotcha. Plaster is no doubt a superior product to mud and tape; it’s stronger, more fire resistant, less prone to mould growth and provided a great substrate for painting. I think it’s also fair to say that to achieve a great finish with mudding and taping more skill is required - that’s not saying plastering is easy, lot’s of skill and experience is needed to do a good job. Perhaps for the above reasons plaster and mesh is used more often than mud and paper tape. Stuff like failures where the wall meets the ceiling can be alleviated by sound prep work such as pre-filling any gaps with confill/setting compound and applying the mud to the paper tape with the right consistency etc. Here in Canada it is strictly mud and paper tape and the standard is high
Learning much,thanks nice work!
Do you have a video showing how to patch an outlet edge that got broken? I’d need a super duper jumbo outlet cover to hide it 😂 many thanks for your tutorials.
We do fast set night before and for big gaps apply and semi fast for finish
Mesh tape glue is there to hold roll together not to clue. When you assemble mud, then this clue will come off from wall and works as armature.
Great videos mate ,mesh tape has its place and can be good but never use mesh tape in corners 👍🇮🇪🇮🇪 love your videos!
Thanks for the tutorial Ben. I needed this after I accidentally dented my wall doing carpet boarding.
We fill the joints or caulk wile it's still wet then run the scrim over the joint then run the wide knife over it