Mr. Vancouver, you make drywall look like such an art! Your commentary and disposition make watching your video's painless and interesting at the same time, and I for one most certainly appreciate you sharing your art with the world! Thank you!!
One of the best things I've learned as a DIYer on this channel is quickset mud is VERY useful, and in many cases very necessary. I think a lot of DIY'ers are intimidated by it, and they need not be. The stuff is cheap... just mix the powder with water until it's mud consistency and use it! No big deal... I use the 90 minute stuff, and I am in no hurry. I'm not good enough at drywallery to ever be in a hurry.
@Tekagi 5 minute for very quick patches only. You can get it in a small bag, even. Though it's very expensive to buy it that way because USG knows it's a high convenience item.
One I thing I have learned watching you feather the edges is that it take perhaps years to be that good. Being a DIY home owner I know I will never accomplish that. As it did take me a lot of moves to be able to move a 7' Steinway Grand Piano myself. Great videos Van
I've been fully converted from a green AP / mesh tape weekend warrior to a 20-minute hot mud and lightweight for topcoat guy. I'll never go back. I've had to fix joints in the past that were mesh & green AP and I don't expect I'll have to fix them again since going with 20-minute. Also, it dries SO MUCH QUICKER and it sets nice and hard, never mind how smooth it goes on. Huge time-saver and the time spent mixing (even adding concrete admixture glue to the water) is still way less than the extra sanding and fixes that I had to deal with every 10 years with green and mesh. Vancouver Carpenter is awesome and I went from "don't look too closely" work to "I'm actually happy with how that came out"
The first time I ever taped and mudded anything was 26 years ago, when we were getting 2 new walls rebuilt for our upcoming baby’s room. Hubby and father-in-law put up the drywall. I used mesh tape and regular weight all-purpose drywall mud, because that’s what my very handy fil brought over. I was 8 months pregnant too!! We still live in the house so we’re around to know how the wall held up. 26 years and counting - it never cracked!! Now I have a couple new walls in another part of the house to do. I bought mesh and paper tape “because paper tape is better”. Well, I tried both tapes and the mesh tape is easier for me to use. Mesh tape for me! Love your videos Ben - I’ve learned a lot! Great explanations.
I repaired a boat load of stress cracks in my house. Using mesh and 3 coats of all purpose. Primed with drywall primer all over, finished with high quality Benjamin Moore paint. 2 years later, literally EVERY single patch failed. Now I just have a huge mess. After seeing your videos I haven't bought another bucket of all purpose. All 20 minute quickset on my repairs. Wish id known before I made a mess of my personal house. I will fix it all at some point. I just don't look up in my house anymore 😂
I flip a house every 5 years or so doing all the work myself. I use mesh. Tried paper tape but I don't have the experience and I really don't want to put up enough drywall to ever gain that experience. My Dad used heavy all purpose so I did too. The powered stuff looked hard to mix. But after watching this channel I tried 90 minute quickset for prefill and first mesh tape coat. OK, wow, loved it. Does look much stronger. When we say "stronger" it doesn't mean it'll hold up a moving house. But imo it's going to reduce hairline cracks which imo are caused just be vibrations from doors closing, bumping, and maybe temp changes. Lack of experience also means I need to do a lot of mud framing and 90 minute has been really useful for that. Because of this channel I also tried lite all purpose (Plus3) for top coats and WOW that sands so much better, easier. Smooth. Much better result. So for me I've bought my last green bucket of heavy all purpose. Thanks for the videos.
Fibafuse or Fibafuse Max is a great alternative to paper tape or mesh for DIYers. Easy to avoid blistering and can be used with all purpose. It just may make you a bit itchy. I don't use it when doing larger jobs because it is pricey, but i often use it on small stuff
6:22 Ben thank you 🙏🏼, having “one of those days”…..and needed a good 😆 That was awesome and definitely “real”, b/c I can guarantee you, not everyone takes the time to turn breakers off when doing a patch or skimming a wall. Cheers my friend ✌🏻
Curiously, I did a fairly extensive wall repair in 2016. Knowing nothing about drywall beyond what I had seen on Bob Villa and the like, I used some mesh tape that I had on hand and bought some all purpose mud thinking nothing of it. Six years later, the repair is fine, no cracks, weird shrinkage, or anything else. I don’t remember specifically trying to pack the joints with mud, but I assume the the act of working the mud along the joints must have pressed a fair amount through the mesh tape and into the joints. I guess I had beginner’s luck.
I live how honest you are with your professional experience, knowledge, and opinion. When you don't know, you simply say you don't know. I can appreciate that in a professional opinion.
I predominantly use two coats of quickset mud with mesh and pack the mud into and through the mesh in the 1st coat and fill and feather on the second. Mostly scrap and form with knives while the consistency is like firm clay. If possible I wait a day then do a top coat with all purpose (sometimes quickset again), sand and that's it (typically). I've done this on two basement remodels. One area of one of the basements I ran out of quickset and used all purpose with mesh. There are cracks, but not too bad. Everywhere else is crack-free. However, you'll always get a cleaner look with paper and I'd now say fiba-fuse for flat joints. I think a lot of cracking with all purpose has to do with people putting it on too thick and it therefore can't dry properly which leads to cracking every time. Mesh tape happens to show that easier. However, with thin layers well cured between each you could get away with it.
I've learned a lot from your channel as well as others and have become pretty good at patch work. If some people are hell bent on using All Purpose and mesh, then at least mix a healthy amount of wood glue with your mud and prefill the joint and let dry BEFORE you use the mesh tape. Then use the mesh tape and All Purpose WITH wood glue again for 3 coats. That's the only way IMO.
Since watching Vancouver carpenter, I’ve been using wood glue in my mixtures. I like how it thickens up the mud and smooths surfaces better plus, I know that it’s strengthening mud especially around the joints.
@@ZupE891its a spray some people use its basically a glue application you spray that on the drywall seems then apply the mesh tape . The mesh will last a little longer.
How about Fiberfuse tape ? I've been using it with all purpose with great results. I particularly like the fact that the tape infuses itself so well with the mud that it seemingly becomes part of the mud/tape joint as opposed to sitting on top of the joint and becoming exposed when sanding. I'd be interested in your input, especially since I "discovered" it on your channel in the first place! Thanks!
I was a painting contractor for about 16 years going back to the early 80's. during that time I saw so many jobs where the paper tape failed. I concluded that the taper was either incompetent or paper tape is just not reliable. I used mesh tape almost exclusively for repairs, for installing drywall panels, including inside corners with regular joint compound. My reasoning was that mesh tape was fool proof. Remember that this was before one could do research on the net and UA-cam. I never had a problem. Well, I think I never had a problem. In retrospect when I think about it , after I finished a job, I may have never seen it again. I never got any call backs. and many homes I returned to many times to do other work and I don't recall ever seeing any problems with previous work. I just finished restoring my own home, after watching many of your videos, I have switched to paper tape and I thinned the joint compound down to the right consistency. My bath room walls were so bad that I put on mesh cloth and embedded it with two coats of quick set and one coat of finish joint compound. I have no intention of leaving this house anytime soon, so I will have to get back to you, as to how well it holds up. One other thing I always went to great lengths to secure the plaster or drywall and the drywall patches before I finished my repairs. Again my reasoning was that if it doesn't move it greatly reduces the chance of cracking. There is always going to be settlement, especially with older homes from the early 1900's to the the 1950's. I have learned so much from your videos, and even though it is hard, old dogs can learn new tricks. And It is never too late to learn new things and improve one's craft.
Paper tape has been around longer than drywall, the only reason it would fail is if there was not enough mud behind the tape or if the mud did not have enough water
Mesh tape on inside angles? That almost always cracks as it is not strong enough and was never designed for that application. Paper tape is still around because it only fails when not installed correctly. I will not use anything but Paper tape on my inside angles other then" no coat " wide angle reinforced tape . Anymore on patches and flats I use fiberfuse tape which is something like 40 percent stronger then any other tape on the market as of now but wouldn't use it on inside corners and always go back to Paper tape for that because I have had fibafuse crack as well in that application
I was just coming here to say what Marc said. I'm a drywaller and we get a lot of call to come do repairs where other drywallers didn't do a great job, and when the paper tape has issues, almost every time we rip it off and you'll see they either wiped all the mud out from under the tape, or they just didn't do a good job securing it to the wall. It's generally human error from what I've seen. If you do paper tape right it's fine. But you need your mud the right consistency and know how hard to wipe it so that your securing it to the wall, but also not pushing all the mud out from under the tape
Yes you can tape a wall with it and get it covered in 2 coats. A buddy of mine did a 40' wall of flat joints with all purpose with two coats and it's clean, only a few areas that had to be lightly skimmed to cover the tape.
Just to be safe I always use hot mud for the first 2 coats when taping because in my heart of hearts I believe it sets much harder. I build it up with all purpose or plus 3 for coats 3-5 though
I used it for years with all purpose drywall patch ready mix which probably considered light mud. I never had any issues with it mostly walls never tired it on a ceiling. I would let it dry then sand it go over it with one of those small spray cans of texture. Primary then paint I can't tell the difference maybe a professional can. The tape is there to just give the mud something to support it between the joints. I always cut my drywall to match the hole so it has very little gap to fill, so it's possible because the gap isn't that big the tape isn't really doing much. The other day at HD in the paint department I looked at one of those mesh patches suppose to cover a larger hole. The directions didn't say anything about using quick setting mud just said use Joint compound.
I did my first drywall job in a couple of rooms with mesh and low dust general purpose. I made sure of prefilling larger gaps and squeezing the mud through the tape at any seams, then waited a day to be sure it was well dried and fully shrunk before the next coat. I realize that isn't good for a professional doing a job, but this was for my daughter, so I had lots of time. One thing I found is leaving the tape on for a couple of hours before applying the mud allowed the tape to adhere better and I had no more issues with it lifting or slipping. My thought was that making sure the mud is squeezed through the mesh would hold the mud in place better and act like rebar in cement, giving it strength. Of course, what seems logical isn't always the best. lol Just ask Bones about Spock's logic. 😁 The interesting thing about this house (1960s vintage) is that the original walls are done with backer board covered with a sand-filled plaster (I assume plaster) and a skim coat finish.
Quite sure that with or without mesh tape is pretty much same. Few string fiber doesn't prevent crack to appear when other hand paper tape hide crack underneath.
Good lecture Ben. I believe there is a chemical in the joint compound that reacts with the mesh tape causing a potential failure, especially with structural movement. Also the joint compound shrinks more and that shows up the joints/gaps (as proven in your video). Given that Mesh tape is designed to speed up the process, using a product that takes longer to dry defeats the purpose of using mesh tape, especially in commercial applications. When pros can get rid of a bucket of 90 minute plaster quicker than I can mix a batch that is the difference between us. Those "patch kits' you purchase at the hardware store come with a small roll of mesh tape or a mesh wall patch and spackling. Given that "spackling" is fancy (or less fancy??) joint compound it makes an interesting speculation... In the UK Mesh tape is all we use, but then we plaster the whole surface, twice; so it is very embedded, even in the corners. Plaster is also different material to "joint compound". From DIY experience I've tried it all and in my opinion the application (skill and knowledge of the tradesman) matters more that the product they are using. I would also argue that if you are patching (hence in and out with minimal fuss) some mesh, 2 coats of hot mud, skim with compound and walk away. Let the painter sand the patch and finish it next day.
I always seem to lose the end on mesh tape, cut off a section pick up the roll again, turn turn turn, can't find the end throw away roll and use paper.
My greatest drywall fail was with mesh tape and all purpose on a large scale mixed with a boat load of ignorance. I'll never forget it. This video is on point.
Hey Ben, I've been thinking of using mesh tape on my flats and butt joints with half all purpose light and half Sheetrock 90. (50/50 mix). Reason being is that i want to first coat prefill all my flat joints with an 8 inch mud box and straight Sheetrock may damage my mud box when it dries. Please let me knew if you think this shortcut idea will work. I'm concerned about the joints cracking because I'm not using straight Sheetrock. Appreciate your time and love your channel. 👍
hello sir just want to ask if im doin it right.. there is a big long crack in our side walls i think its the foundation wall, so wat i did i use pollyfilla or “no more gaps” this kind of material as they its more flexible, so i use that tube n gun to fillup insde the crack but didnt fillup the whole thing cos its atlishalf an inch crack m some is 1 inch.. then i use wall primer jst 1 coat then use white cement to make the holes or crack flat as the surface then ill use all purpose or white puty to make it smooth n easier to sand. am i doin it right sir😓 thanks for all ur videos
Ooh, I like the trick of cutting the tape with the trowel thingy. I'm going to be installing drywall for the first time so I'm trying to learn more about the process. You clearly have good technique and I like how you did the feathering. That is helpful to me. Do you have any links to quickset? I'm trying to find it. I'm glad you didn't touch any metal while doing that around the outlet. Electricity is no joke. My friend was changing out a light fixture for his grandfather and his grandfather turned the breaker back on and friend got zapped pretty badly. Knocked off the ladder & lost feeling in his right hand & both of his feet. He wasn't able to drive for years because he couldn't feel his feet. To this day he has diminished feeling in his feet but has enough he can drive again but he still has almost no feeling in his right hand. He can't feel pressure, heat, or texture. When you picked up debris from the concrete it reminded me of the time I was helping a friend paint drywall after a fire. The closer I got to the floor the more it started picking up crud. There was no power at the place so we couldn't run vacuums.
Have you ever tried Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty? I'm not sure if it's available in Canada. It's some really unique stuff. I've used it to fill a large spot of door molding my dog chewed off. I sanded it and shaped so you can't even tell it was damaged. If you have a chance, give it a try.
I hope a similar test with paper tape and quick set (without glue) is also in the works. I've heard people say it doesn't work, I've seen a video suggesting it is just as good as premixed. At least with CGC brand quick set. I've been using it for a few years now so need to know if I have to change my company name soon.
😂 Some quickset brands work with paper tape without glue. It's good insurance either way because some can fail pretty badly. Don't use any of the Pro-set lite muds without glue. They can really suck.
Lol. I recall you saying in one of your previous videos when you were doing a dry wall framing around the window I believe, that you didn’t know why the electricians left the receptacles popping out of the wall but, here you are in your own garage with receptacles popped out of the wall! 6:00 lol!
I learned from experience, we used it for years on metal frame buildings inside a large building. Most of the buildings had failures, mainly in the central butt joints. It would usually take a few years with the green AP, a few months with light weight.
Hi, worried I have made a mistake. Used an all-purpose drying compound with mesh tape on a ceiling join. This was a 4inch wide piece of drywall about 4ft long. Could I use a setting compound over this for my 2nd coat? Worried about cracking
I renovated a house and used nothing but mesh tape and all purpose mud (mainly due to ignorance). Moved out of the house 13 years later and only had one small joint that cracked. Everything else was solid...but that was just my experience and there wasn't a ton of drywall to begin with in the first place as the house was mostly plaster.
@@robertgendron7332 no professional ever used to mesh LOL only for small repairs and if you ever use mash you need to use durabond or else it will crack. Classic paper for the win
I haven't used mesh since Fibafuse as well. I have noticed that using fibafuse with hot mud takes longer to dry where the tape run is. Sometimes that's a con of Fibafuse with fast repairs.
When I finished my basement 10 years ago, I wasn't aware of using setting mud with fiberglass tape. I have yet to have a failure. Could be because it's below grade and less wall movement?
My friend you make this look so easy. Question, do I need to buy a hawk and trowel or can I just take it from the bucket? Thank you for posting. I'm now subscribed =)
like you said in the video i would never use it on a paying job or working for another taper/sheetrockers job but with that said small patchs like one in vid is doable with mesh and all purpose(preferably green lid usg) but i will use it straight out of the can DO Not add water if using mesh with all purpose just whip it up with drill and paddle so can at least spread it. one it will shrink less and be stronger but never gonna be as strong as durabond and mesh but for small patch less than 2ft by 2ft is fine would say.
The thing I don't get about mesh tape is that why ever use it if there's a better alternative? Yeah maybe it's quicker to install but is it really if you then get a callback to come fix it? To me it just seems like a nobrainer to do it right the first time and then not having to worry about it.
I would guess that the shrinkage of all purpose mud reduces the strength of the mesh tape whereas the hot mud and mesh has little to no shrinkage. Plus the all purpose is very soft and easy to sand whereas the hot mud is pretty hard and a nightmare to sand.
I took out my medicine cabinet and am using mesh tape. That stuff tears as soon as you go over it sometimes with the mud and in between the tiny gaps, is the all All purpose supposed to bubble through and then I guess you do a second coat? I was looking if you had a tutorial for patching up a medicine cabinet whole.
Has anyone used spray foam to patch a hole? I saw a video where a guy had mounted a piece of drywall to some backing to cover a hole and then used spray foam in the gap around the hole then just mudded over top, no tape.
I’ve been using the new better mesh, it has diagonal fibreglass strands, I’ve used all purpose, no problem. Regular mesh fails because it racks. Paper is so much thicker than any mesh, especially on butt joints, on fill joints I have to Add so much more mud to get level
As a contractor, I’ve seen mesh tape used on a few new projects. I’m still a fan of paper tape, especially on new work. The last project I saw mesh use with all purpose box mud, the tape and float guys had finished the drywall about a week before a cool snap. EVERY. SINGLE. JOINT. CRACKED. Repaired over with paper tape. Hasn’t cracked since.
So the benefit is that you don't need to have quick set mud and paper tape and then you can paint directly over the all purpose. But the risk is the all-purpose could shrink and crack. The quick set plus paper tape won't crack but you can't paint over that, you need to coat with all purpose before painting. Is this summary correct?
Yes, I think that all correct. Fast set doesn’t sand the same, sort of polishes and then you can see the different texture after it dries. Even when he’s done whole patches he’ll use fast set till the final coat.
as you say and to continue. it is probable that the reasons for failure are not the use of the mesh tape but Failing to make a stable patch or joint failing to fill the gaps Failing to put on enough material failing to allow sufficient setup time between coats failing to apply sufficient coats failing to cover sufficient area will the fill AND being in too much of a @#!&% hurry for the same reasons and possibly less frequency paper tape joints would probably fail too. like most failures it comes back to simple basics
VC, you demonstrated that you can use mesh tape with all purpose for small patches but you really didn't demonstrate (or explain) why you can't use mesh tape and all purpose on large patches.
I'm wondering if you could do a video showing how to do a tight corner using paper tape. I've got quite a few in my house, where the internal corner is within 1.5 to 1.75" of the door frame; on one of these they originally taped half of it (and didn't put plaster over the tape) so I have a few to fix and I don't have the knowledge to do it properly atm.
I used to use No-Coat ultra flex for inside corners. But with the knowledge I’ve gained from VancouverCarpenter’s tutorials I only use paper tape now. I find l’m much quicker after using some of his techniques. Look at some of his videos on taping corners and you will do fine.
@@eskilover I only use paper tape unless I'm doing a repair of a hole, and I've done inside corners as well, but when there's a door right next to it with very little space to work in I'm hoping for some tips as to how to work around that restriction. I had to redo much of the plastering in my son's room; whoever did our house was definitely an amateur and one without much knowledge.
@@eskilover not yet, I don't have any holes to patch at the moment, the last ones I did were before I found VC on You Tube. I had to do the traditional put a piece of GIB (as we call it here in NZ) with some wood behind it to patch the hole made by a teenage boy's foot. Next time I'll be looking at VC before doing anything.
Ive had luck with sheetrock all purpose mud and mesh tape and I've had a few that failed as well and cracked about a year later so.... I try to use regular tape whenever possible. Btw the cracks were always above door casings. Too much movement I suppose.
should try to avoid making joints above or below openings (doors, windows, archways) while installing as it is a structural weak point, drywall wise. Although many do hang the sheets that way, or patch in with off-cuts.
I use mesh tape, but ise Fix it all quick set & feather it before it dries. That stuff is bullet proof. That is the bullet proof base. Then I put pre made all purpose joint compound over the top.
Let’s say I did a small room and used mesh and All purpose mud. I haven’t painted yet. what to do? Should I go and put paper over those butt joints and tape it ? How could I take it off? Seems like that mesh is staying in there lol.
I got hairline cracks when I used mesh with regular drywall compound. Where the hell is the old perforated paper tape hiding? That was the best. The compound came out of the holes and you never got blisters or any amateur mistakes. I don't see it at Home Depot or anywhere?
The question is if the mesh tape makes a difference or if skipping it all together works equally well? For small patches like in this video obviously. How can a patch, if only attached to the drywall itself, move in anyway that would make it crack?
It may not be noticeable but your walls do shift and flex quite a bit over time. During the warmer seasons the wood framing swells, while during colder times it shrinks. This causes movement in the sheetrock and, even though it may only amount to a small fraction of an inch, the joints between the sheets press or pull apart. Drywall tape helps maintain the structure of the compound and keep it in place; without it the mud will come lose and fall out of the joints, causing cracks.
@@self2self9 I'm not saying you're wrong, and I understand what you're saying. But drywall is a "dead" material (I forget the correct technical term), so if we're talking about a hole in the same piece of drywall (not two different pieces joined together), how can there possibly be movement? Unless you screw the patch to the wood framing itself.
We always double layer our mesh tape on patches. We always Vee cut and prefill before any kind of taping. . We mesh tape all of our staple on and nail on outside corners. But then again, we are professionals
Please somebody tell me what is mud? I know it's a generic slang term for some kind of plaster/filler - but what the hell is its proper name as I need to buy some and it's not listed in ebay under under 'mud'! Thanking you in anticipation.
My experience with paper tape has been horrible. Maybe with a machine applied tape it works (think of the thousands of new houses). I have used mesh tape for most of my projects. Some were with all purpose mud. I have had no repairs on mesh. I have had bubbles on paper tape that drive me crazy.
Listen up class ...always bed with 5 min mud for hot patches....skim with 45 min...that same with job takes me 30 min with heat gun ...I'm gone...no knock on how he does it...he does an amazing job...
You only live in Vancouver almost everywhere else in Canada they use mesh tape and hot mud for entire house. The only other provinces that use paper tape for everything are the Western provinces
As a beginner DIYer, I would use mesh because it is simpler and less messy. The problem is that I use pre-mixed all purpose for the very same reason… That’s why this combination will always be common.
It may be that the majority of people using mesh/allpurpose combination are DIYers and therefore their inability to make a good joint is the main cause of people saying it'll crack over time. When someone says something like "9 times out of 10 a cracking joint is by mesh tape" I ponder whether the root cause was the material, the person, or both.
@@TheEngineerJason or the substrate. The wall has to be secure. Drywall board and framing. Sometimes screws catch enough to countersink properly, but lack holding power. Drywall finishers that did not hang the board have to trust the hangers leaving quality work. Sadly that is not always the case.
Mr. Vancouver, you make drywall look like such an art! Your commentary and disposition make watching your video's painless and interesting at the same time, and I for one most certainly appreciate you sharing your art with the world! Thank you!!
One of the best things I've learned as a DIYer on this channel is quickset mud is VERY useful, and in many cases very necessary. I think a lot of DIY'ers are intimidated by it, and they need not be. The stuff is cheap... just mix the powder with water until it's mud consistency and use it! No big deal... I use the 90 minute stuff, and I am in no hurry. I'm not good enough at drywallery to ever be in a hurry.
As a DIYer too, I need as much working time as possible. 90 minute hot mud is good for me.
@@Simon-vo7gi Yeah, there's a 90 and even a 120, I think.
He definitely is; I'm learning a lot 💪🏾
@@aaron74 45min mud takes 60 tbh. I newb can get away with 45min tbh. Then you do a final coat of plus 3 and youre good to go.
@Tekagi 5 minute for very quick patches only. You can get it in a small bag, even. Though it's very expensive to buy it that way because USG knows it's a high convenience item.
One I thing I have learned watching you feather the edges is that it take perhaps years to be that good. Being a DIY home owner I know I will never accomplish that.
As it did take me a lot of moves to be able to move a 7' Steinway Grand Piano myself. Great videos Van
I've been fully converted from a green AP / mesh tape weekend warrior to a 20-minute hot mud and lightweight for topcoat guy. I'll never go back. I've had to fix joints in the past that were mesh & green AP and I don't expect I'll have to fix them again since going with 20-minute. Also, it dries SO MUCH QUICKER and it sets nice and hard, never mind how smooth it goes on. Huge time-saver and the time spent mixing (even adding concrete admixture glue to the water) is still way less than the extra sanding and fixes that I had to deal with every 10 years with green and mesh.
Vancouver Carpenter is awesome and I went from "don't look too closely" work to "I'm actually happy with how that came out"
The first time I ever taped and mudded anything was 26 years ago, when we were getting 2 new walls rebuilt for our upcoming baby’s room. Hubby and father-in-law put up the drywall. I used mesh tape and regular weight all-purpose drywall mud, because that’s what my very handy fil brought over. I was 8 months pregnant too!! We still live in the house so we’re around to know how the wall held up. 26 years and counting - it never cracked!!
Now I have a couple new walls in another part of the house to do. I bought mesh and paper tape “because paper tape is better”. Well, I tried both tapes and the mesh tape is easier for me to use. Mesh tape for me!
Love your videos Ben - I’ve learned a lot! Great explanations.
Had to do a dry wall repair in guest bathroom. Thanks to you and the Kilted Guy, it looks better than before!
I repaired a boat load of stress cracks in my house. Using mesh and 3 coats of all purpose. Primed with drywall primer all over, finished with high quality Benjamin Moore paint. 2 years later, literally EVERY single patch failed. Now I just have a huge mess. After seeing your videos I haven't bought another bucket of all purpose. All 20 minute quickset on my repairs. Wish id known before I made a mess of my personal house. I will fix it all at some point. I just don't look up in my house anymore 😂
I flip a house every 5 years or so doing all the work myself. I use mesh. Tried paper tape but I don't have the experience and I really don't want to put up enough drywall to ever gain that experience. My Dad used heavy all purpose so I did too. The powered stuff looked hard to mix. But after watching this channel I tried 90 minute quickset for prefill and first mesh tape coat. OK, wow, loved it. Does look much stronger. When we say "stronger" it doesn't mean it'll hold up a moving house. But imo it's going to reduce hairline cracks which imo are caused just be vibrations from doors closing, bumping, and maybe temp changes.
Lack of experience also means I need to do a lot of mud framing and 90 minute has been really useful for that.
Because of this channel I also tried lite all purpose (Plus3) for top coats and WOW that sands so much better, easier. Smooth. Much better result.
So for me I've bought my last green bucket of heavy all purpose.
Thanks for the videos.
Lol- yup, it's so freeing to let go of the green lid:)
I feel bad for whoever bought your flip
Been using mesh for 43 years without a single problem. If in doubt run 2 layers of it.
Y@@aussie8114
Fibafuse or Fibafuse Max is a great alternative to paper tape or mesh for DIYers. Easy to avoid blistering and can be used with all purpose. It just may make you a bit itchy. I don't use it when doing larger jobs because it is pricey, but i often use it on small stuff
6:22 Ben thank you 🙏🏼, having “one of those days”…..and needed a good 😆
That was awesome and definitely “real”, b/c I can guarantee you, not everyone takes the time to turn breakers off when doing a patch or skimming a wall.
Cheers my friend ✌🏻
I wrap the outlet terminals with electrical tape.
Curiously, I did a fairly extensive wall repair in 2016. Knowing nothing about drywall beyond what I had seen on Bob Villa and the like, I used some mesh tape that I had on hand and bought some all purpose mud thinking nothing of it. Six years later, the repair is fine, no cracks, weird shrinkage, or anything else. I don’t remember specifically trying to pack the joints with mud, but I assume the the act of working the mud along the joints must have pressed a fair amount through the mesh tape and into the joints. I guess I had beginner’s luck.
You were just part of the 90% that turn out okay.
I live how honest you are with your professional experience, knowledge, and opinion. When you don't know, you simply say you don't know. I can appreciate that in a professional opinion.
I predominantly use two coats of quickset mud with mesh and pack the mud into and through the mesh in the 1st coat and fill and feather on the second. Mostly scrap and form with knives while the consistency is like firm clay. If possible I wait a day then do a top coat with all purpose (sometimes quickset again), sand and that's it (typically). I've done this on two basement remodels. One area of one of the basements I ran out of quickset and used all purpose with mesh. There are cracks, but not too bad. Everywhere else is crack-free. However, you'll always get a cleaner look with paper and I'd now say fiba-fuse for flat joints.
I think a lot of cracking with all purpose has to do with people putting it on too thick and it therefore can't dry properly which leads to cracking every time. Mesh tape happens to show that easier. However, with thin layers well cured between each you could get away with it.
Agreed on all points. I've finished basements with mesh and hot mud with zero issues even decades later.
I've learned a lot from your channel as well as others and have become pretty good at patch work. If some people are hell bent on using All Purpose and mesh, then at least mix a healthy amount of wood glue with your mud and prefill the joint and let dry BEFORE you use the mesh tape. Then use the mesh tape and All Purpose WITH wood glue again for 3 coats. That's the only way IMO.
Since watching Vancouver carpenter, I’ve been using wood glue in my mixtures. I like how it thickens up the mud and smooths surfaces better plus, I know that it’s strengthening mud especially around the joints.
Amazing video and definitely helpful and useful. Also entertaining and keep up the amazing work Ben.
I did bedroom remodels in my house with mesh and all purpose. All the more challenging joints cracked.
Same here
I use it for work and it doesn't crack. It's the steps you use
@bombomrojo1835 prob just have to fill the gaps first right?
@@ZupE891its a spray some people use its basically a glue application you spray that on the drywall seems then apply the mesh tape . The mesh will last a little longer.
How about Fiberfuse tape ? I've been using it with all purpose with great results. I particularly like the fact that the tape infuses itself so well with the mud that it seemingly becomes part of the mud/tape joint as opposed to sitting on top of the joint and becoming exposed when sanding. I'd be interested in your input, especially since I "discovered" it on your channel in the first place! Thanks!
I was a painting contractor for about 16 years going back to the early 80's. during that time I saw so many jobs where the paper tape failed. I concluded that the taper was either incompetent or paper tape is just not reliable. I used mesh tape almost exclusively for repairs, for installing drywall panels, including inside corners with regular joint compound. My reasoning was that mesh tape was fool proof. Remember that this was before one could do research on the net and UA-cam. I never had a problem. Well, I think I never had a problem. In retrospect when I think about it , after I finished a job, I may have never seen it again. I never got any call backs. and many homes I returned to many times to do other work and I don't recall ever seeing any problems with previous work. I just finished restoring my own home, after watching many of your videos, I have switched to paper tape and I thinned the joint compound down to the right consistency. My bath room walls were so bad that I put on mesh cloth and embedded it with two coats of quick set and one coat of finish joint compound. I have no intention of leaving this house anytime soon, so I will have to get back to you, as to how well it holds up. One other thing I always went to great lengths to secure the plaster or drywall and the drywall patches before I finished my repairs. Again my reasoning was that if it doesn't move it greatly reduces the chance of cracking. There is always going to be settlement, especially with older homes from the early 1900's to the the 1950's. I have learned so much from your videos, and even though it is hard, old dogs can learn new tricks. And It is never too late to learn new things and improve one's craft.
Paper tape has been around longer than drywall, the only reason it would fail is if there was not enough mud behind the tape or if the mud did not have enough water
Mesh tape on inside angles? That almost always cracks as it is not strong enough and was never designed for that application. Paper tape is still around because it only fails when not installed correctly. I will not use anything but Paper tape on my inside angles other then" no coat " wide angle reinforced tape . Anymore on patches and flats I use fiberfuse tape which is something like 40 percent stronger then any other tape on the market as of now but wouldn't use it on inside corners and always go back to Paper tape for that because I have had fibafuse crack as well in that application
I was just coming here to say what Marc said. I'm a drywaller and we get a lot of call to come do repairs where other drywallers didn't do a great job, and when the paper tape has issues, almost every time we rip it off and you'll see they either wiped all the mud out from under the tape, or they just didn't do a good job securing it to the wall. It's generally human error from what I've seen. If you do paper tape right it's fine. But you need your mud the right consistency and know how hard to wipe it so that your securing it to the wall, but also not pushing all the mud out from under the tape
You rock dude! Love your videos, they're super informative.
Yes you can tape a wall with it and get it covered in 2 coats. A buddy of mine did a 40' wall of flat joints with all purpose with two coats and it's clean, only a few areas that had to be lightly skimmed to cover the tape.
It may make a difference where 2 sheets meet, rather than if it is in the middle of a sheet. Or if new peace of drywall patch is screwed to a stud.
Just to be safe I always use hot mud for the first 2 coats when taping because in my heart of hearts I believe it sets much harder. I build it up with all purpose or plus 3 for coats 3-5 though
Great to see you are an experimenter too!! A scientific approach! Very helpful!
I used it for years with all purpose drywall patch ready mix which probably considered light mud. I never had any issues with it mostly walls never tired it on a ceiling. I would let it dry then sand it go over it with one of those small spray cans of texture. Primary then paint I can't tell the difference maybe a professional can. The tape is there to just give the mud something to support it between the joints. I always cut my drywall to match the hole so it has very little gap to fill, so it's possible because the gap isn't that big the tape isn't really doing much. The other day at HD in the paint department I looked at one of those mesh patches suppose to cover a larger hole. The directions didn't say anything about using quick setting mud just said use Joint compound.
I did my first drywall job in a couple of rooms with mesh and low dust general purpose. I made sure of prefilling larger gaps and squeezing the mud through the tape at any seams, then waited a day to be sure it was well dried and fully shrunk before the next coat. I realize that isn't good for a professional doing a job, but this was for my daughter, so I had lots of time. One thing I found is leaving the tape on for a couple of hours before applying the mud allowed the tape to adhere better and I had no more issues with it lifting or slipping.
My thought was that making sure the mud is squeezed through the mesh would hold the mud in place better and act like rebar in cement, giving it strength. Of course, what seems logical isn't always the best. lol Just ask Bones about Spock's logic. 😁
The interesting thing about this house (1960s vintage) is that the original walls are done with backer board covered with a sand-filled plaster (I assume plaster) and a skim coat finish.
Quite sure that with or without mesh tape is pretty much same. Few string fiber doesn't prevent crack to appear when other hand paper tape hide crack underneath.
*Sarcastic*
“Turn off the breaker then”
“I don’t want to” 😂
Great info and vid, thanks!
Good lecture Ben. I believe there is a chemical in the joint compound that reacts with the mesh tape causing a potential failure, especially with structural movement. Also the joint compound shrinks more and that shows up the joints/gaps (as proven in your video). Given that Mesh tape is designed to speed up the process, using a product that takes longer to dry defeats the purpose of using mesh tape, especially in commercial applications. When pros can get rid of a bucket of 90 minute plaster quicker than I can mix a batch that is the difference between us.
Those "patch kits' you purchase at the hardware store come with a small roll of mesh tape or a mesh wall patch and spackling. Given that "spackling" is fancy (or less fancy??) joint compound it makes an interesting speculation... In the UK Mesh tape is all we use, but then we plaster the whole surface, twice; so it is very embedded, even in the corners. Plaster is also different material to "joint compound". From DIY experience I've tried it all and in my opinion the application (skill and knowledge of the tradesman) matters more that the product they are using. I would also argue that if you are patching (hence in and out with minimal fuss) some mesh, 2 coats of hot mud, skim with compound and walk away. Let the painter sand the patch and finish it next day.
I always seem to lose the end on mesh tape, cut off a section pick up the roll again, turn turn turn, can't find the end throw away roll and use paper.
My greatest drywall fail was with mesh tape and all purpose on a large scale mixed with a boat load of ignorance. I'll never forget it. This video is on point.
I have watched a LOT of your videos and I'm still surprised that I learn something. Connected some dots for me today. Thx
Hey Ben, I've been thinking of using mesh tape on my flats and butt joints with half all purpose light and half Sheetrock 90. (50/50 mix). Reason being is that i want to first coat prefill all my flat joints with an 8 inch mud box and straight Sheetrock may damage my mud box when it dries. Please let me knew if you think this shortcut idea will work. I'm concerned about the joints cracking because I'm not using straight Sheetrock. Appreciate your time and love your channel. 👍
I like to keep drywall sheets 1/8 apart then prefilled with Durabond next day spray with 3M 77 adhesive then apply fibatape cover with hot mud
hello sir just want to ask if im doin it right.. there is a big long crack in our side walls i think its the foundation wall, so wat i did i use pollyfilla or “no more gaps” this kind of material as they its more flexible, so i use that tube n gun to fillup insde the crack but didnt fillup the whole thing cos its atlishalf an inch crack m some is 1 inch.. then i use wall primer jst 1 coat then use white cement to make the holes or crack flat as the surface then ill use all purpose or white puty to make it smooth n easier to sand. am i doin it right sir😓 thanks for all ur videos
Adam, nice quick video. I usually save mesh tape for the ceiling.
Ooh, I like the trick of cutting the tape with the trowel thingy. I'm going to be installing drywall for the first time so I'm trying to learn more about the process. You clearly have good technique and I like how you did the feathering. That is helpful to me. Do you have any links to quickset? I'm trying to find it. I'm glad you didn't touch any metal while doing that around the outlet. Electricity is no joke. My friend was changing out a light fixture for his grandfather and his grandfather turned the breaker back on and friend got zapped pretty badly. Knocked off the ladder & lost feeling in his right hand & both of his feet. He wasn't able to drive for years because he couldn't feel his feet. To this day he has diminished feeling in his feet but has enough he can drive again but he still has almost no feeling in his right hand. He can't feel pressure, heat, or texture.
When you picked up debris from the concrete it reminded me of the time I was helping a friend paint drywall after a fire. The closer I got to the floor the more it started picking up crud. There was no power at the place so we couldn't run vacuums.
Have you ever tried Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty? I'm not sure if it's available in Canada. It's some really unique stuff. I've used it to fill a large spot of door molding my dog chewed off. I sanded it and shaped so you can't even tell it was damaged. If you have a chance, give it a try.
I hope a similar test with paper tape and quick set (without glue) is also in the works. I've heard people say it doesn't work, I've seen a video suggesting it is just as good as premixed. At least with CGC brand quick set. I've been using it for a few years now so need to know if I have to change my company name soon.
😂 Some quickset brands work with paper tape without glue. It's good insurance either way because some can fail pretty badly. Don't use any of the Pro-set lite muds without glue. They can really suck.
Lol. I recall you saying in one of your previous videos when you were doing a dry wall framing around the window I believe, that you didn’t know why the electricians left the receptacles popping out of the wall but, here you are in your own garage with receptacles popped out of the wall! 6:00 lol!
I leave them out so I can finish around the outlet properly
I learned from experience, we used it for years on metal frame buildings inside a large building. Most of the buildings had failures, mainly in the central butt joints. It would usually take a few years with the green AP, a few months with light weight.
I've learned this the hard way in my garage. Will have to redo a few cracks this summer on the ceiling using 40 minute setting compound...
Hi, worried I have made a mistake. Used an all-purpose drying compound with mesh tape on a ceiling join. This was a 4inch wide piece of drywall about 4ft long. Could I use a setting compound over this for my 2nd coat? Worried about cracking
I renovated a house and used nothing but mesh tape and all purpose mud (mainly due to ignorance). Moved out of the house 13 years later and only had one small joint that cracked. Everything else was solid...but that was just my experience and there wasn't a ton of drywall to begin with in the first place as the house was mostly plaster.
6:15 Fyi, it would technically be "shocking" myself..."electrocution" results in death. Very common mistake.
I don't do much drywall, but once I discovered FibaFuse tape, I never went back to mesh tape
I agree. Don’t know why anyone would use mesh now.
@@robertgendron7332 no professional ever used to mesh LOL only for small repairs and if you ever use mash you need to use durabond or else it will crack. Classic paper for the win
I haven't used mesh since Fibafuse as well. I have noticed that using fibafuse with hot mud takes longer to dry where the tape run is. Sometimes that's a con of Fibafuse with fast repairs.
I've been wanting to try that, but wondered if it makes your hands itch?
@@Dave-nm3xc Not for me
When I finished my basement 10 years ago, I wasn't aware of using setting mud with fiberglass tape. I have yet to have a failure. Could be because it's below grade and less wall movement?
I’m a drywall contractor sometimes if we run out of tape we use mesh with red dot all purpose more glue
My friend you make this look so easy. Question, do I need to buy a hawk and trowel or can I just take it from the bucket? Thank you for posting. I'm now subscribed =)
YOU can use Mesh Tape with All Purpose Mud but I should NEVER use Mesh Tape with All Purpose Mud! 😆
I don’t know if you’re the best Sheetrock guy in the world. But the best teacher by far. Safety aside. Lol
like you said in the video i would never use it on a paying job or working for another taper/sheetrockers job but with that said small patchs like one in vid is doable with mesh and all purpose(preferably green lid usg) but i will use it straight out of the can DO Not add water if using mesh with all purpose just whip it up with drill and paddle so can at least spread it. one it will shrink less and be stronger but never gonna be as strong as durabond and mesh but for small patch less than 2ft by 2ft is fine would say.
The thing I don't get about mesh tape is that why ever use it if there's a better alternative? Yeah maybe it's quicker to install but is it really if you then get a callback to come fix it? To me it just seems like a nobrainer to do it right the first time and then not having to worry about it.
Feather that like button! Consistent tips and honesty. Good channel for a Canadian.
I would guess that the shrinkage of all purpose mud reduces the strength of the mesh tape whereas the hot mud and mesh has little to no shrinkage. Plus the all purpose is very soft and easy to sand whereas the hot mud is pretty hard and a nightmare to sand.
I took out my medicine cabinet and am using mesh tape. That stuff tears as soon as you go over it sometimes with the mud and in between the tiny gaps, is the all All purpose supposed to bubble through and then I guess you do a second coat? I was looking if you had a tutorial for patching up a medicine cabinet whole.
I wish I could master the feathering - mesh seems to always show thru
Has anyone used spray foam to patch a hole? I saw a video where a guy had mounted a piece of drywall to some backing to cover a hole and then used spray foam in the gap around the hole then just mudded over top, no tape.
if your gonna try skim coating a wall. shoudl you use lite all purpose mud? or regular all purpose? both pre mixed
Regular all purpose due to the large amount of glue it has. Lite all purposes is only good as a topper. It has less glue.
I use hot mud but prefill before i put the tape on
I’ve been using the new better mesh, it has diagonal fibreglass strands, I’ve used all purpose, no problem. Regular mesh fails because it racks. Paper is so much thicker than any mesh, especially on butt joints, on fill joints I have to Add so much more mud to get level
What about the green lid in the US. That stuff is hard and should hold right?
As a contractor, I’ve seen mesh tape used on a few new projects. I’m still a fan of paper tape, especially on new work.
The last project I saw mesh use with all purpose box mud, the tape and float guys had finished the drywall about a week before a cool snap. EVERY. SINGLE. JOINT. CRACKED.
Repaired over with paper tape. Hasn’t cracked since.
So the benefit is that you don't need to have quick set mud and paper tape and then you can paint directly over the all purpose. But the risk is the all-purpose could shrink and crack. The quick set plus paper tape won't crack but you can't paint over that, you need to coat with all purpose before painting. Is this summary correct?
Yes, I think that all correct. Fast set doesn’t sand the same, sort of polishes and then you can see the different texture after it dries. Even when he’s done whole patches he’ll use fast set till the final coat.
love following your videos, I am not afraid to try this on my own house
Mesh is good for big holes & gaps, when patching and repairing
My go to for patches is fibafuse and quickset. I finished with lite all purpose. works great for me, and no cracks yet.
as you say and to continue.
it is probable that the reasons for failure are not the use of the mesh tape but
Failing to make a stable patch or joint
failing to fill the gaps
Failing to put on enough material
failing to allow sufficient setup time between coats
failing to apply sufficient coats
failing to cover sufficient area will the fill
AND
being in too much of a @#!&% hurry
for the same reasons and possibly less frequency paper tape joints would probably fail too.
like most failures it comes back to simple basics
Exactly.
VC, you demonstrated that you can use mesh tape with all purpose for small patches but you really didn't demonstrate (or explain) why you can't use mesh tape and all purpose on large patches.
I'm wondering if you could do a video showing how to do a tight corner using paper tape. I've got quite a few in my house, where the internal corner is within 1.5 to 1.75" of the door frame; on one of these they originally taped half of it (and didn't put plaster over the tape) so I have a few to fix and I don't have the knowledge to do it properly atm.
I used to use No-Coat ultra flex for inside corners. But with the knowledge I’ve gained from VancouverCarpenter’s tutorials I only use paper tape now. I find l’m much quicker after using some of his techniques. Look at some of his videos on taping corners and you will do fine.
@@eskilover I only use paper tape unless I'm doing a repair of a hole, and I've done inside corners as well, but when there's a door right next to it with very little space to work in I'm hoping for some tips as to how to work around that restriction. I had to redo much of the plastering in my son's room; whoever did our house was definitely an amateur and one without much knowledge.
@@sewsable have you seen VC California patches for doing a hole in drywall? It’s a game changer.
I meant his video on California patches.
@@eskilover not yet, I don't have any holes to patch at the moment, the last ones I did were before I found VC on You Tube. I had to do the traditional put a piece of GIB (as we call it here in NZ) with some wood behind it to patch the hole made by a teenage boy's foot. Next time I'll be looking at VC before doing anything.
Thank you for this video 😊I did mesh before watching alot of other videos of you saying absolutely don't I was crap to late
Can you use sheetrock 90 for the first coat then regular mud after?
Yes. That's exactly what I recommend.
Ive had luck with sheetrock all purpose mud and mesh tape and I've had a few that failed as well and cracked about a year later so.... I try to use regular tape whenever possible. Btw the cracks were always above door casings. Too much movement I suppose.
should try to avoid making joints above or below openings (doors, windows, archways) while installing as it is a structural weak point, drywall wise. Although many do hang the sheets that way, or patch in with off-cuts.
I laughed when you said the mud was like tertiary as I work for a local government and we water one of our sports complexes with tertiary water
patching my sheetrock wall on my garage this weekend what is the good idea to patch it with for projector tv screen?mesh or the paper tape?
I have used it for 30 years and I have used both quick set and all purpose. All purpose works just fine.
I use mesh tape, but ise Fix it all quick set & feather it before it dries. That stuff is bullet proof. That is the bullet proof base. Then I put pre made all purpose joint compound over the top.
Let’s say I did a small room and used mesh and All purpose mud. I haven’t painted yet. what to do? Should I go and put paper over those butt joints and tape it ? How could I take it off? Seems like that mesh is staying in there lol.
I did a first small thin coat too. I need to go back and put another coat of mud. Perhaps put 90 minute over if? I’ll take Any ideas .
I also prefilled with 45min hot mud too lol
What’s the largest opening this method is ok to do? 2’x3’ rectangular patch still ok?
When I was scrolling and see the thumbnail, I thought you were mesh taped across the mouth in a hostage situation 🤣🤣🤣
I got hairline cracks when I used mesh with regular drywall compound. Where the hell is the old perforated paper tape hiding? That was the best. The compound came out of the holes and you never got blisters or any amateur mistakes. I don't see it at Home Depot or anywhere?
There’s a manual?! 😳 Please tell me where to find it because I would love to have one.
ah-HAH! I knew it!!! lol
Great job. I love your videos!
I did a a sun room ceiling with mesh tape and all purpose mud and all the seams cracked. Had to re tape with paper. Cost me money
The question is if the mesh tape makes a difference or if skipping it all together works equally well? For small patches like in this video obviously.
How can a patch, if only attached to the drywall itself, move in anyway that would make it crack?
No, i do not think it will crack, i did a lot, thanks
It may not be noticeable but your walls do shift and flex quite a bit over time. During the warmer seasons the wood framing swells, while during colder times it shrinks. This causes movement in the sheetrock and, even though it may only amount to a small fraction of an inch, the joints between the sheets press or pull apart. Drywall tape helps maintain the structure of the compound and keep it in place; without it the mud will come lose and fall out of the joints, causing cracks.
@@self2self9 I'm not saying you're wrong, and I understand what you're saying. But drywall is a "dead" material (I forget the correct technical term), so if we're talking about a hole in the same piece of drywall (not two different pieces joined together), how can there possibly be movement?
Unless you screw the patch to the wood framing itself.
Hi, can anyone from Australia tell me which mud I should use with mesh tape? I have cornice 60 if that's ok.
We always double layer our mesh tape on patches. We always Vee cut and prefill before any kind of taping. . We mesh tape all of our staple on and nail on outside corners. But then again, we are professionals
6:22 death before breaker 💪🏼😤
Please somebody tell me what is mud? I know it's a generic slang term for some kind of plaster/filler - but what the hell is its proper name as I need to buy some and it's not listed in ebay under under 'mud'! Thanking you in anticipation.
"well I don't know but guaranteed they held up"
Do you switch over to regular mud after the initial swing up of mesh tape?
My experience with paper tape has been horrible. Maybe with a machine applied tape it works (think of the thousands of new houses). I have used mesh tape for most of my projects. Some were with all purpose mud. I have had no repairs on mesh. I have had bubbles on paper tape that drive me crazy.
What is fiber tape better at exactly?
Listen up class ...always bed with 5 min mud for hot patches....skim with 45 min...that same with job takes me 30 min with heat gun ...I'm gone...no knock on how he does it...he does an amazing job...
I use PLUS 3 For everything, ya cant go wrong with it
You only live in Vancouver almost everywhere else in Canada they use mesh tape and hot mud for entire house. The only other provinces that use paper tape for everything are the Western provinces
I love how mesh tape always frays! I feel like if you coat all your seams first and let them dry out then stick the tape on and tape it. But who knows
When i try to skim i get a lot of tiny air bubbles or pockets.... Any reason why?
You’re like the Bob Ross of drywall mud....”happy little skim coat”. :)
No... he's Mr Rodgers. Similar voice too except a little faster.
Professional drywall guys call it crack tape
As a beginner DIYer, I would use mesh because it is simpler and less messy. The problem is that I use pre-mixed all purpose for the very same reason…
That’s why this combination will always be common.
It may be that the majority of people using mesh/allpurpose combination are DIYers and therefore their inability to make a good joint is the main cause of people saying it'll crack over time. When someone says something like "9 times out of 10 a cracking joint is by mesh tape" I ponder whether the root cause was the material, the person, or both.
@@TheEngineerJason or the substrate. The wall has to be secure. Drywall board and framing. Sometimes screws catch enough to countersink properly, but lack holding power. Drywall finishers that did not hang the board have to trust the hangers leaving quality work. Sadly that is not always the case.