Servicing our Volvo Penta sail drive
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- Опубліковано 3 бер 2021
- While Paikea is out of the water it is a perfect time to have a good look at our Volvo Penta sail drives. Shayne has already made up some nice new fibreglass covers to fit over the holes in the hulls where the sail drive enters the water. Now it's time to clean up the sail drives and replace all the items that have perished. It was a big job but the end product looks fantastic.
The compounds we used are linked below. This is a good reference for those of you who would like to know what sort of adhesives/anticorrosion agents are worthwhile purchasing for your boat.
In terms of antifoul products, the options are varied. It really depends on your requirements, where you intend to do most of your cruising, how long the boat will be in the water and how often you intend to replace the antifoul. If you have any questions or suggestions please leave a comment below.
Materials list from this project -
Nautix A7-TSPEED
paints.nautix.com/nautix-anti...
Duralac
www.llewellyn-ryland.co.uk/dow...
Tefgel
www.tefgel.com/contain.php?pa...
Loctite
www.loctiteproducts.com/en.html
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Great job and great movie, thanks for this.
Great work! Thank you for sharing!
I used acetone to thin it out.
Great vid, was a little worried when you talked about re-using bolts, but so glad to see used new bolts that had to be torqued. So often people re-use those ones and wonder what went wrong. Cheers.
Thanks. We try to reuse what whenever we can so long as safety is not compromised.
@@youngbarnacles It's a great idea that, I guess getting parts at the mo is a little difficult too. Be great to see it sailing again too.
Splendid job Shayne ! I had those same outdrives 22 years on my Fontaine Pajot Antigua. France to Phuket the slow way. Not being mechanical AT ALL, apart from oil changes I got away with zero maintenance. But I did sail it a lot so relatively low hours. Age and arthritus finally stopped me . And I believe the new owners, a young couple like you guys, just kept the units going for years . Volvo Penta. Last forever? 😊
Yup. Not complaints here. Got plenty of other stuff failing but touch wood these drives keep on going 🤞
Great video, thanks.
You are welcome!
This video Just showed up after a search for a review on how good Volvo Folding Props on their Saildrives are . lol. tbh, I'm Gobsmacked at this video, at the amount of abuse the poor things can take for a very long time by the previous owner(s),plus so nice to see you tackle the restoration work so well. My next boat is going to have a Volvo Saildrive in it, with a Volvo Folding Prop, with an ambassador Rope Stripper - Volvo now supply thinner Anodes to be able to fit them, after looking at the other available Props, any with advantages do seem to have offset disadvantages, so no really worthwhile gains . I have also been looking at antifouling possibilities for Props, and on forums, came across mention by people using it for years with no problems, of painting them With Cold Galvanising Zinc Paint. I've found you can get 1kg tins of 96% Zinc Paint, in a Silicone medium, which is good for brushing or roller, giving a good thick coat. Apparently, lesser concentrations are available in Aerosol Cans, and that ones for marine use, are identical formulations to the non marine ones, at a Fraction of the price. Apparently 3 Aerosol Coats should last about 18 months, depending on the water the boat is in, so 2 coats of the Brushed o should be at least as good ? I'm thinking 2 coats of that, then finish off with a third coat via Aerosol, for a smooth finish. After having the iron Keel properly sealed with 2 coats of epoxy barrier Paint, I'm thinking of giving it 5 coats of cold Galvanising , plus 3 coats on the rudder, to see how it performs, as I'll be hauling out annually anyway. It's non Toxic, Plus Major Bonus Point, it's Also an Anode, which may just extend greatly the life of those expensive Anodes. Plus on haulout , after a pressure wash and dry, if the paint looks a bit thin, just slap more coats on? I suspect the galvanic effect, slowly erodes the paint layer, keeping it clean ? Still, I'll find out once I've got my boat in the water. Thanks again for this, Best Wishes and Fair Winds. Bob. 👍
I was also surprised at how well the sail drives have taken the abuse. It has certainly reinforced my thoughts that the engineering has improved so much to make them this reliable now.
Look forward to a longevity review of the AF used.
So far Im impressed with it. It is a foul release system, so no poisons. Stuff grows to it but it mostly wipes off, some of the stubborn hard grows come off easy with plastic scraper.
Ottimo lavoro!!
Vorrei smontare anch'io il sail drive, ma non avendolo mai fatto ho paura di iniziare un lavoro per poi non riuscire a terminarlo!
Potresti mettere un video dove fai vedere passo-passo come si smonta e si rimonta?
Grazie 👍
You did't replaced both propeller shaft lip seals !
Is that bronze hose adapter threaded into an aluminum casting (10:00) really isolated enough by the Loctite?? I'd be very very wary of that allowing electrolytic corrosion to happen in the aluminum. Totally a no-no to have bronze touching aluminum in my world.
Yes and no.....
No it is not the ideal situation, but it is a best of other situations. Plastic is a good option for corrosion, but it is high risk with breaking and hot environment. The bronze is safe with strength and high heat environment. The sealant greatly reduces the corrosion issue due to keeping the electrolyte out of touching parts. This is a detail that will be monitored closely. Like you I was not convinced it was a good option, until i was shown this is the detail used by Volvopenta to replace the plastic fittings that were breaking.
Gee, you make a good point, it is virtually impossible to electrically isolate two dissimilar metals threaded into each other. The one redeeming feature is the way aluminum tends to form a thick layer of nonconductive oxide. And of course many sail drives will have internal sacrificial zincs nearby. In the plumbing industry there are isolation bushings one can add, to break the electrical contact. I don't know of an easy solution, short of using an aluminum threaded joint, with a hose barb, moving the ball valve farther away. My Yanmar has a brass or bronze spigot that is similarly threaded into the housing like that. Any ideas?
Would rather hear you discuss the issues than cover the discussion up with loud music. I'm wondering if these sail drives are still under developed. They are not what I expected, and seem to be a weak point in any boat. In my viewpoint of requiring robust construction of a propulsion system the sail drive looks vulnerable. I'd rather see a V-Drive shaft with a alternative DC motor through the V-Drive. I'm not a huge fan of Sugar Scoop Engine rooms anyway, mainly because of the weight.
Sorry if there was more music than disscusuing the drives. We are still trying to find the balance of lots of info Vs boring video. These sail drives are far from being under development. Our ones are 30 years old and 4th generation. So as far as reliability is concerned they are ok.
I have played a lot with v drives and shaft systems, and can first hand confirm that they are not better. A shaft system still has heaps of service issues just as a sail drive has. The sail drive however has less drag than a shaft system and keeps the engine and drive system much more compact.
Like everything in a boat there are compromises, having motors far aft like a lagoon is terrible for performance. A motor amidships is terrible for a boat less than 60ft. Having a motor just aft of the interior and in front of the rudder is a good compromise in a boat 40 to 60ft.
Comes off argent. ….