I heard decades ago that Union Pacific had moved the horns near the exhaust fans to keep them from freezing up in winter. Don't know how true that was but sounds ligit to me.
I was a switchman for the Chicago and northwestern/UP... i'd like to think they moved the horn so as to not blow the ears off the crewmembers lol... I've ridden in locos with the horns on top of the cab... they were REALLY LOUD... and I mean with the doors and windows closed and it sounds like the horn is in the cab next to you... why ever they moved them I was glad they did
Nice video. I love to hear and watch other modeler's techniques even though I model an older era. It would be a little more helpful to your viewers if you can talk about the paint colors, mixtures and types as you are working on different areas of the model.
Ya could use CA (super glue) and baking soda as a filler. Works great. I patched a hole on a Lionel F unit which did not have a reversing lever so it would be smooth. After filling the hole with CA and baking soda I sanded it smooth and repainted it. You cannot even tell it ever had a hole in it.
8242 to 8261 excluding 8245 was chessie b&o SD40-2s and 8360 to 8437 was also chessie for c&o and some Western Maryland. 8040 to 8066 and 8087 to 8094 is SCL.
Yes Daniel, I'll have you add that hatch to the low nose. That is a good eye. I didn't catch that before. 8044 looks great. When I get a chance SD50-2 #2487 will be headed your way.
It's not clear what you're painting with. I couldn't tell if you were using the pastels (pronounced pasTEL) or the acrylic with th brush. Also you say you wet the brush, but with what? Water?
your grim mix... i mixed some up with this exact paaint from hobby lobby... my grim mix i think was too dark i used 50 50 brown black... what is you mix??? and after you installed the side rail back on the truck you said you where using brown... but not pure earth brown.. you just called it brown... what mix is that??? after i did mine and let it all dry it doesnt look grimmy enough cause i think the grim was too dark im going to lighten it up and go over it all again.. but if you will tell me what your mixes where it will help me get the feel of the colors???
Ahhh! Yup, I know exactly what happened. Take note, I use MORE earth brown then I do black, black is a very overpowering color and when to much black is added to this mix, it turns out to be to dark. For actually mixing the paint together, you need to do 70% earth & 30% black. I use this same color for all areas of the model, so when I said brown, I meant my grime color, sorry if this confused you! Hope this helps...~Daniel
DansRailroad2011 thank you... i play around with it alittle today... i weather my first model today... its pretty good... i also made a gray looking grim and used it just to see how it looks... its alright..... i was doing an older csx unit and it was a hex drive from athearn,, good model but doesnt have all the detail of the RTR units but i thought this would be a good place for me to start...
You use way too much pressure to remove them class lights you should start by shaving the class lights little by little it takes longer but in the end you can get the whole class light off without marring the paint and the long run it's safer because you're not putting a lot of pressure on it so the odds of it slipping and hitting you are next to none and you don't slip and break grab iron but yeah real fine Strokes pass it by little by little think of it as wood you wouldn't try to remove a big chunk of wood at one time if you were carving wood you should shave it down little by little by little by little do the same thing with these plastic trains and you won't run the risk of hurting yourself or the engine
I have a Q&A for you. Q: does 8044 still have yn3 paint? Because I've seen both yn3 and yn4 go by where I live. A: this is in response to your question in the beginning, yes the 8044 was originally a SCL and a SBD not a chessie system. (Or I could be wrong)
It's YN4 now, that is why Athearn shouldn't have waited around until now to be making YN3 equipment, when half of it is already being repainted to YN4!
G- Man appears to be either a SCL or SBD. I can tell it is NOT a chessie engine because chessie system did not utilize a nose headlight. Nose headlights where on almost every single SCL/SBD SD40-2.
@@NOVARailandWeatherEnthusiast From looking it up, it's ex-SCL. But you do need to look it up. This isn't a Genesis model, so you can't guarantee that details such as that are accurate.
I know this is an old video could you possibly go back and watch it and tell me where to get one of the rulers that you used for a straight edge. I have been trying to find somebody who sells that particular ruler that has the equivalent to and I’m the having a hard time finding I need one of them if you could help I’d appreciate it
What are you talking about? These things don't cost anything close to $900. They had an MSRP of around $210 with DCC and sound and about $150 for the DCC-ready version.
WOW. Talk about paying attention to detail!!!
this guy is good!
Thanks Dan for the tutorial. I feel more confident about attempting to weather my equipment on my own.
I heard decades ago that Union Pacific had moved the horns near the exhaust fans to keep them from freezing up in winter. Don't know how true that was but sounds ligit to me.
I was a switchman for the Chicago and northwestern/UP... i'd like to think they moved the horn so as to not blow the ears off the crewmembers lol... I've ridden in locos with the horns on top of the cab... they were REALLY LOUD... and I mean with the doors and windows closed and it sounds like the horn is in the cab next to you... why ever they moved them I was glad they did
Nice video. I love to hear and watch other modeler's techniques even though I model an older era. It would be a little more helpful to your viewers if you can talk about the paint colors, mixtures and types as you are working on different areas of the model.
Great How-to video ! Nice job ! thanks for sharing ! Martin
Looks good Dan, can’t wait to send you my Athearn GP35 to become WC 2555 for me.
Ya could use CA (super glue) and baking soda as a filler. Works great. I patched a hole on a Lionel F unit which did not have a reversing lever so it would be smooth. After filling the hole with CA and baking soda I sanded it smooth and repainted it. You cannot even tell it ever had a hole in it.
On the hand rails , Have you ever made your own from Brass wire and stantions , that could be a great option ! I make them all the time !
8242 to 8261 excluding 8245 was chessie b&o SD40-2s and 8360 to 8437 was also chessie for c&o and some Western Maryland. 8040 to 8066 and 8087 to 8094 is SCL.
Love the tips and techniques. The hard part with prototype photos is they are a lot harder to for engines from the 70's
Henry Carney same thing with certain diesels from the 90s.
Great Job... Appreciate the info and sharing//
Yes Daniel, I'll have you add that hatch to the low nose. That is a good eye. I didn't catch that before. 8044 looks great. When I get a chance SD50-2 #2487 will be headed your way.
You do great looking work and I wouldn't mind having you do a little for me on a couple Southern SD7's.
Sure thing. Send them in if your interested!
its a shame that the newer athearn locomotives do not have truck frames installed in that "easy-to-do" pop off configuration.
I also hate those plastic athearn handrails. I am trying to find metal handrails to replace the plastic ones with on my rtr units
Good luck trying not to bend them
CSXT 8044 was built as SCL 8044, then to Seaboard System 8044, then to Family Lines 8044, then CSX
+John “CSX8663” Alexander chessie sd 40-2 were 7600 numbers7602-7617 i think
It's not clear what you're painting with. I couldn't tell if you were using the pastels (pronounced pasTEL) or the acrylic with th brush. Also you say you wet the brush, but with what? Water?
Chessie units always had their headlights on the cab not on the nose
Do you put in decoders???? I need work on like 6 .let me know thanks Joe
your grim mix... i mixed some up with this exact paaint from hobby lobby... my grim mix i think was too dark i used 50 50 brown black... what is you mix???
and after you installed the side rail back on the truck you said you where using brown... but not pure earth brown.. you just called it brown... what mix is that???
after i did mine and let it all dry it doesnt look grimmy enough cause i think the grim was too dark im going to lighten it up and go over it all again.. but if you will tell me what your mixes where it will help me get the feel of the colors???
Ahhh! Yup, I know exactly what happened. Take note, I use MORE earth brown then I do black, black is a very overpowering color and when to much black is added to this mix, it turns out to be to dark. For actually mixing the paint together, you need to do 70% earth & 30% black. I use this same color for all areas of the model, so when I said brown, I meant my grime color, sorry if this confused you! Hope this helps...~Daniel
DansRailroad2011 thank you... i play around with it alittle today... i weather my first model today... its pretty good... i also made a gray looking grim and used it just to see how it looks... its alright..... i was doing an older csx unit and it was a hex drive from athearn,, good model but doesnt have all the detail of the RTR units but i thought this would be a good place for me to start...
Don't think in terms of fixed ratios. Start with brown and add black a bit at a time until you get the shade you want.
You use way too much pressure to remove them class lights you should start by shaving the class lights little by little it takes longer but in the end you can get the whole class light off without marring the paint and the long run it's safer because you're not putting a lot of pressure on it so the odds of it slipping and hitting you are next to none and you don't slip and break grab iron but yeah real fine Strokes pass it by little by little think of it as wood you wouldn't try to remove a big chunk of wood at one time if you were carving wood you should shave it down little by little by little by little do the same thing with these plastic trains and you won't run the risk of hurting yourself or the engine
8044 is ex-seaboard
School bus or safety yellow works well to
What size drill bit do you use for remounting the horn?
I heard a GEVO at about 8:40.
Me too
8:20 "I do believe that's an NS GEVO coming."
I have a Q&A for you.
Q: does 8044 still have yn3 paint? Because I've seen both yn3 and yn4 go by where I live.
A: this is in response to your question in the beginning, yes the 8044 was originally a SCL and a SBD not a chessie system. (Or I could be wrong)
It's YN4 now, that is why Athearn shouldn't have waited around until now to be making YN3 equipment, when half of it is already being repainted to YN4!
G- Man appears to be either a SCL or SBD. I can tell it is NOT a chessie engine because chessie system did not utilize a nose headlight. Nose headlights where on almost every single SCL/SBD SD40-2.
@@NOVARailandWeatherEnthusiast From looking it up, it's ex-SCL. But you do need to look it up. This isn't a Genesis model, so you can't guarantee that details such as that are accurate.
This is HO scale?
Yes.
I know this is an old video could you possibly go back and watch it and tell me where to get one of the rulers that you used for a straight edge. I have been trying to find somebody who sells that particular ruler that has the equivalent to and I’m the having a hard time finding I need one of them if you could help I’d appreciate it
Amazon will sell you a million generic steel rulers, unless you're asking about that specific one.
Is that a gevo I hear? 8:40
8:20 "I do believe that's an NS GEVO coming."
Not spending 900.00 dollars on a engine and alter it. They should slash the price and let you build the thing right out of a box.
Lol. Then you would be paying 900 per loco for sure, bud.
What are you talking about? These things don't cost anything close to $900. They had an MSRP of around $210 with DCC and sound and about $150 for the DCC-ready version.
Sigh