I learn more from you on weathering than any other you tuber. I'm an old man and retired so that goes to show how good you are. Watch out though. Pretty soon I'll be better than you. LOL. Thanks teacher!
Friggin amazing transformation!!!! That rust and debris is from thousands of steel wheels rubbing on steel track, brakes, and the friction material building up in areas with little ventilation. I like this type of weathering!
Dan, I have some questions. I found this pair of videos a few days ago and you made it look all so simple and strightforward that I had to give it a go. 1. It seems to me that you are using exceptionally stiff brushes - is this the case? Most of my brushes are soft, so they are better at lathering paint on in great quantities than they are dusting it on the way your brushes appear to. When doing the diesel exhaust soot on the roof of my unit, for instance, the first coat just painted the roof black wherever the brush touched it - there was no depth to it and a second coat was just more black on top of black. I can clearly see on yours that there was some gradient to the application. 2. This is also the case with my truck and undercarriage grime - it didn't end up looking grimy, it ended up looking like someone had quarter-assed painting it a grime-ish color, though it . However, I think this is mostly because it's still fairly shiny - will the dullcoat and pastels sell the effect? The fuel tank worked okay, but I had a very hard time cleaning the outward facing sides, so the whole tank just appears one sort of uniform level of grime. Again, my brushes lather it on, whereas it seems to me yours are better at 'dusting,' for lack of a better term, the paint in place. Thanks for the great video!
I actually forgot one question: What kind of acrylic should I be using? I found gloss and satin at my local supply store and bought satin. Should I be using matte instead? Is matte acrylic even a thing?
Hey! I am not trying to be critical.(Please dont take what I am saying that way)I first started watching this video Well????Part one and the amount of talking in the beginning,made me turn it off. Now! That being said,I came back and just viewed Pt1&2 and I am so glad I did. You did an epic job on this loco,and you were very informative and helpful to me! Thank you and I am gonna go look at more of your videos,gonna hit the sub button. I know how it is to video something and get carried away talking! LOL! Trust me! I do the same! But this WAS fantastic!! Really great information!
Your technique is awesome! Just a quick question: the fellow you are doing this for, does he plan to add the super details (windshield wipers, ditchlights, multiple unit jumper cables, sanding lines, scale chains for brake chains and front & rear walkways, tension springs for brake chains, spare knuckles, wind deflectors, rearview mirror, armrests, possibly a cab interior)? Has he thought about DCC?
Speaking as someone with some fine art experience, you always need to coat charcoals to make them set. So yup, add a final layer of clear coat to the finished product, and be pretty thorough with it. The charcoals will rub off on your hands and everything else without it. Tape the windows as Dan mentioned.
That was fricken awesome. Im going to weather up my G N W GP9 R . where do I find photos of engines ? I have a few that need weather. Thank you for showing me . really stoked.
RR Picture Archives is a great source of photographs. However, it's always harder to get photos of older locomotives -- you're relying on people scanning slides and negatives from the days when you couldn't just go take 200 photographs in a day.
Hey Dan I finally attempted this. I think it came out pretty well. It’s a bit “dirtier” than yours tho. Question; Do you seal The chalks after your done thanks. David
Since Dan didn't reply, I have an answer to your question. Yes you must seal the chalks after application. Don't use anything with a high pressure air that will simply blow them off. I use Krylon Workable Fixitif 1306 as a sealant. It doesn't blow all the chalk and weathering powders off and seals well. After that dries I hit the model with a layer of kryon matte finish 1311. It is cheaper by far than glosscoat or any other model master tiny can and works just as well. You will have to get the Fixitif from a craft store like hobby lobby or similar. The 1311 is available at walmart.
I think Dan generally doesn't seal his chalks -- he's said he doesn't on his freight cars, so I doubt he does on locomotives. But it does mean that he has to minimize handling.
2005GLI I am using straight up chalk pastels. I have not tried the oil pastels, nor do I plan to. In my opinion, I like the dry powdery affects of the pastels, as this really does a nice job of creating the fresh rust shades or the dull exhaust hue.
Dan can i ask you this.... i was very interested in how you fixed those spots on the front of the hood where you used the chisel to shave them off... how did you get them to disappear and blend the paint back together... you may have a video that shows how you do this... id like to see it done... thanks
No, I do not. This procedure of shaving plastics parts off of models is easy. The real key is making sure that you eliminate ALL traces that it was ever their and paint matching to the best of your ability, even if that means repainting an entire section and blending it in with weathering
Yes I do, my business is Dan's Custom Trains. If you have something you want done, contact me on my facebook page, Dan's Custom Trains, or, Daniel Arnold. Or, you can email me at dkarnold83@aol.com. Phone #419-293-2079. Thanks! ~Daniel
I learn more from you on weathering than any other you tuber. I'm an old man and retired so that goes to show how good you are. Watch out though. Pretty soon I'll be better than you. LOL.
Thanks teacher!
Once again nice work Dan. I learned a thing or two here
Friggin amazing transformation!!!! That rust and debris is from thousands of steel wheels rubbing on steel track, brakes, and the friction material building up in areas with little ventilation. I like this type of weathering!
Good job
i heavily weathered csx 4418 (shell only) and it looks fantastic
plus well done with that model of 8044
cheers from an australian railfan
R711 6A fan- ARF multimedia 4418 used to be on the local that’s closest to me! Is yours in YN2? or YN3?
looks great!
Very nice !!! Thanks for sharing all your vids !
A very excellent tutorial. I'll bet this looks even better in person.
Great series Dan! Really enjoyed it man. Thanks for sharing,
Ethan
Excellent work! I learned a lot.
Great Job and lessons!
i love your weathering jobs
Hey nice series. I actually have a similar model that I’m gonna try your techniques on. Thx for sharing. 👍 David
Dan - great job to you have to hit the unit with dull coat after the chalk is applied to set it? Or brush and done.. Thanks again!
Your buddy decided not to put on the hatch? Any thoughts on adding ditch lights? Front and/or rear?
Dan, I have some questions. I found this pair of videos a few days ago and you made it look all so simple and strightforward that I had to give it a go.
1. It seems to me that you are using exceptionally stiff brushes - is this the case? Most of my brushes are soft, so they are better at lathering paint on in great quantities than they are dusting it on the way your brushes appear to. When doing the diesel exhaust soot on the roof of my unit, for instance, the first coat just painted the roof black wherever the brush touched it - there was no depth to it and a second coat was just more black on top of black. I can clearly see on yours that there was some gradient to the application.
2. This is also the case with my truck and undercarriage grime - it didn't end up looking grimy, it ended up looking like someone had quarter-assed painting it a grime-ish color, though it . However, I think this is mostly because it's still fairly shiny - will the dullcoat and pastels sell the effect? The fuel tank worked okay, but I had a very hard time cleaning the outward facing sides, so the whole tank just appears one sort of uniform level of grime. Again, my brushes lather it on, whereas it seems to me yours are better at 'dusting,' for lack of a better term, the paint in place.
Thanks for the great video!
I actually forgot one question: What kind of acrylic should I be using? I found gloss and satin at my local supply store and bought satin. Should I be using matte instead? Is matte acrylic even a thing?
thats how all models should be treated!
If only I had that ability. I just do basic fading and washes. Of course I do southern equipment sooo
Hey! I am not trying to be critical.(Please dont take what I am saying that way)I first started watching this video Well????Part one and the amount of talking in the beginning,made me turn it off. Now! That being said,I came back and just viewed Pt1&2 and I am so glad I did. You did an epic job on this loco,and you were very informative and helpful to me! Thank you and I am gonna go look at more of your videos,gonna hit the sub button. I know how it is to video something and get carried away talking! LOL! Trust me! I do the same! But this WAS fantastic!! Really great information!
Great job Dan ...! Do you install DCC before or after weathering?
Reference photos are key.
Your technique is awesome! Just a quick question: the fellow you are doing this for, does he plan to add the super details (windshield wipers, ditchlights, multiple unit jumper cables, sanding lines, scale chains for brake chains and front & rear walkways, tension springs for brake chains, spare knuckles, wind deflectors, rearview mirror, armrests, possibly a cab interior)? Has he thought about DCC?
great C &Oguy
Do you lock down your chalk pastel work with some dull cote or anything?
Do you spray any sealer over everything?
actually being that rough with the brush it will tear stuff up otherwise you're doing a good job
Dan do you clear coat after you are done, looks great I'm trying out on the same engine, thanks for sharing.....
Speaking as someone with some fine art experience, you always need to coat charcoals to make them set. So yup, add a final layer of clear coat to the finished product, and be pretty thorough with it. The charcoals will rub off on your hands and everything else without it. Tape the windows as Dan mentioned.
That was fricken awesome. Im going to weather up my G N W GP9 R . where do I find photos of engines ? I have a few that need weather.
Thank you for showing me . really stoked.
RR Picture Archives is a great source of photographs. However, it's always harder to get photos of older locomotives -- you're relying on people scanning slides and negatives from the days when you couldn't just go take 200 photographs in a day.
Do you do any weathering on Chessie System units?
Dan, do you typically use Dullcote for your clear coat or do you prefer another product? Great videos, Kennedy
He uses Dullcote.
Hey Dan I finally attempted this. I think it came out pretty well. It’s a bit “dirtier” than yours tho. Question; Do you seal The chalks after your done thanks. David
Since Dan didn't reply, I have an answer to your question. Yes you must seal the chalks after application. Don't use anything with a high pressure air that will simply blow them off. I use Krylon Workable Fixitif 1306 as a sealant. It doesn't blow all the chalk and weathering powders off and seals well. After that dries I hit the model with a layer of kryon matte finish 1311. It is cheaper by far than glosscoat or any other model master tiny can and works just as well. You will have to get the Fixitif from a craft store like hobby lobby or similar. The 1311 is available at walmart.
@@Zach_Bloomquist oh hey thanks for the info. I forgot I even asked lol.
@@Crookedriverandeasternrr Hah. Thats ok. Hopefully somebody else watching Dan will see the reply and not wonder how to work with chalks now. Lol.
@@Zach_Bloomquist hahaha.
I think Dan generally doesn't seal his chalks -- he's said he doesn't on his freight cars, so I doubt he does on locomotives. But it does mean that he has to minimize handling.
Dan, do you clear coat again over the chalks once done?
I don't, I only put the chalks in areas I am not touching as well to keep it from rubbing off. Chalks disappear once you clear them.
what kind of chalks are you using? are they just plain artists pastels or oil pastels?
2005GLI I am using straight up chalk pastels. I have not tried the oil pastels, nor do I plan to. In my opinion, I like the dry powdery affects of the pastels, as this really does a nice job of creating the fresh rust shades or the dull exhaust hue.
Dan can i ask you this.... i was very interested in how you fixed those spots on the front of the hood where you used the chisel to shave them off... how did you get them to disappear and blend the paint back together... you may have a video that shows how you do this... id like to see it done... thanks
No, I do not. This procedure of shaving plastics parts off of models is easy. The real key is making sure that you eliminate ALL traces that it was ever their and paint matching to the best of your ability, even if that means repainting an entire section and blending it in with weathering
DansRailroad2011 thank you
Could you weather a lifelike low hood gp38 on camera.
You don't by chance weather for modelers (other than friends) for payment do you?
Yes I do, my business is Dan's Custom Trains. If you have something you want done, contact me on my facebook page, Dan's Custom Trains, or, Daniel Arnold. Or, you can email me at dkarnold83@aol.com. Phone #419-293-2079. Thanks!
~Daniel
Excellent work! I learned a lot.