Nice video Dan. The weathering came out great. The warping effect came out great too. My only concern with that is does it affect the running performance of the wagon and also coupler height?
The biggest difference with model railroading in the USA verses Europe is that Americans tend to go with a VERY weathered, lived in, and gritty look and feel on everything from the trains, to the cities and towns. This is certainly an excellent example.
I’m an American modeling present day conditions and I find cars weathered to this degree are very scarce unless you’re into mill towns with whole trains of these decrepit cars. And rust? Thanks to modern coatings like urethane and epoxy, rolling stock inside of ten to fifteen years old will only have marginal rust. And if all cities are as overwhelmingly gritty and bad as you think then nobody would move there, would they? I think modelers have gone off the deep end and have acquired the Joh Allen syndrome, which was unrealistic then and even more so now. Doesn’t mean we can’t enjoy creating cars like this but I challenge anyone to, outside of the rust belt, find trains with more than a few cars anywhere near as bad as this.
I love this. Taking old roundhouse cars and updating them with custom detail parts is something that I am trying to emulate with a block of 10 or so of the same cars (RailGon GONX 310160 - GONX 310169).
Amazing work as always Dan. I learn so much from watching your videos. You helped me get over my fears of using powders and weathering cars as a whole. I began weathering cars a couple years ago, as a way to keep my hands and mind busy. I have had 58 surgeries and 6 TIA mini strokes, so it's important. It's like a therapy. I get along OK now, after lots of PT and mental stamina. I just cannot work anymore. I always look forward to your next project! Thanks again!
Fantastic weathering! Love the sagging effect. One quick question... when you warp and sag the car, does it affect the coupler height and how do you compensate for that if it does? Thanks, Brian
I had a similar question - if the body is warped, how was the underframe mounted back on? Was it forced to warp via the truck screws or cemented in place?
@@whiteknightcat To answer for everybody, you will need to shim the coupler pockets with .010'' styrene. As for the trucks, I will add a little 010'' styrene shim to the carbody around the mounting so the truck sits corrected at a flat angle.
Hi Dan - have you considered using .005 brass for embossing the sides? I made my side panels the same way, just using sheet brass (Hobby Lobby. Michaels, etc). I then used double-sided tape to hold them down while I dropped a variety of metal objects (nuts, screws, even wooden dowels) and achieved a really cool effect. I used CA to glue them onto the gon sides. Man, I wish I had your eyesight! And maybe a tenth of your skills. Keep it up brother!
Questions: How do you remove the original chord and what do you replace it with? How do you attach the floor and do you modify it in any way? What about coupler height? If you bow the entire body the couplers will point upward and coupler height will be wrong. How do you fix this?
I don't remove the original cord, I simply add styrene L channel on top of it. The floor is simply glued in place with superglue, and I've never had issues with them not fitting after this technique is done! Coupler height is adjusted with styrene shims.
*** WOW!! *** What an extremely authentic looking weathering job! Especially the carbody sag and beat up panels. Your finished model reflects years of abuse and service. Thanks for sharing your process and techniques, which produce exceptional looking results.
Great job Dan. You always put a lot of effort into your stuff. I one recommendation that should of been done on side ends where the two handrails are with the stirup. I would of took the small handrails off then put the warped styrene on. You could of redrilled the holes to put the handrails back on. Great job though. Thanks
great job again
Nice video Dan. The weathering came out great. The warping effect came out great too. My only concern with that is does it affect the running performance of the wagon and also coupler height?
The biggest difference with model railroading in the USA verses Europe is that Americans tend to go with a VERY weathered, lived in, and gritty look and feel on everything from the trains, to the cities and towns. This is certainly an excellent example.
I am from the UK but love a filthy gondola over clean ones any day of the week ❤
I’m an American modeling present day conditions and I find cars weathered to this degree are very scarce unless you’re into mill towns with whole trains of these decrepit cars. And rust? Thanks to modern coatings like urethane and epoxy, rolling stock inside of ten to fifteen years old will only have marginal rust. And if all cities are as overwhelmingly gritty and bad as you think then nobody would move there, would they? I think modelers have gone off the deep end and have acquired the Joh Allen syndrome, which was unrealistic then and even more so now. Doesn’t mean we can’t enjoy creating cars like this but I challenge anyone to, outside of the rust belt, find trains with more than a few cars anywhere near as bad as this.
Another Emmy award winning video Dan! Just looks golden! One question is when you painted the sides I assume you masked off the yellow paint?
When you sell on Ebay what's the name of your account ?
Another fabulous model, Dan, Thanks for all the great tips!
All I can say is,,,,,great job!!!!
Thumbnail looks like a real car.
I love this. Taking old roundhouse cars and updating them with custom detail parts is something that I am trying to emulate with a block of 10 or so of the same cars (RailGon GONX 310160 - GONX 310169).
Amazing work as always Dan. I learn so much from watching your videos. You helped me get over my fears of using powders and weathering cars as a whole. I began weathering cars a couple years ago, as a way to keep my hands and mind busy. I have had 58 surgeries and 6 TIA mini strokes, so it's important. It's like a therapy. I get along OK now, after lots of PT and mental stamina. I just cannot work anymore. I always look forward to your next project! Thanks again!
I like that nice weathering on the gondola i would do the same thing for my gondola 😁👍
Absolutely beautiful Dan. I would love to have one of your models on my layout!!!!
Absolutely gorgeous!!!! Would love to have one of your models on my layout!!!!!!
Fantastic weathering! Love the sagging effect. One quick question... when you warp and sag the car, does it affect the coupler height and how do you compensate for that if it does? Thanks, Brian
and do the trucks ride correctly on the rails? I guess you can put the screw in a bit less tight to solve?
I had a similar question - if the body is warped, how was the underframe mounted back on? Was it forced to warp via the truck screws or cemented in place?
@@whiteknightcat To answer for everybody, you will need to shim the coupler pockets with .010'' styrene. As for the trucks, I will add a little 010'' styrene shim to the carbody around the mounting so the truck sits corrected at a flat angle.
@@DansRailroad2011 Thank you
Hi Dan - have you considered using .005 brass for embossing the sides? I made my side panels the same way, just using sheet brass (Hobby Lobby. Michaels, etc). I then used double-sided tape to hold them down while I dropped a variety of metal objects (nuts, screws, even wooden dowels) and achieved a really cool effect. I used CA to glue them onto the gon sides.
Man, I wish I had your eyesight! And maybe a tenth of your skills. Keep it up brother!
Awesome job as always Dan and a great tip on warping the gon
Questions: How do you remove the original chord and what do you replace it with? How do you attach the floor and do you modify it in any way? What about coupler height? If you bow the entire body the couplers will point upward and coupler height will be wrong. How do you fix this?
I don't remove the original cord, I simply add styrene L channel on top of it. The floor is simply glued in place with superglue, and I've never had issues with them not fitting after this technique is done! Coupler height is adjusted with styrene shims.
Very nice 👌
*** WOW!! ***
What an extremely authentic looking weathering job! Especially the carbody sag and beat up panels. Your finished model reflects years of abuse and service.
Thanks for sharing your process and techniques, which produce exceptional looking results.
Great job Dan. You always put a lot of effort into your stuff. I one recommendation that should of been done on side ends where the two handrails are with the stirup. I would of took the small handrails off then put the warped styrene on. You could of redrilled the holes to put the handrails back on. Great job though. Thanks
Excellent work as always!!
Nicely done!
Man you do great work.
Fantastic!!!!!!!!!
🏆🍻
Excellent
hello DansRailroad2011& it's is Randy and i like yours video is cool & Thanks DansRailroad2011 & Friends Randy