How To Buy The Right Engine Oil
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- When buying engine oil for your car, there are a lot of things you need to know. What weight is right? What does 5w40 mean? Is your oil an approved oil? What are oil specs? Thanks to Liquimoly for coming by to talk oils.
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See, THIS is what I wanted to know when I worked in an oil change business, but nobody working there knew! It disturbed me greatly to work with "professionals" who knew nothing about the product, thus I knew nothing as well. Great job, guys!
Well that's just a lube shop all they're required to do is drain the oil fill the car with whatever they have put on a filter if they don't forget and send it out. I'm just a driveway mechanic and I I'm basically religious about my oils.
ONLY LIQUI MOLY AND MOTUL FOR OUR CARS AND TRUCKS.
@@bryanmartinez6600 This is EXCELLENT OILS. MOLY' ENGINE OIL TREATMENT IS GREAT TOO
Even local cars ans trucks?@@bryanmartinez6600
Thanks to Steffen from Liquimoly for coming by and chatting engine oil :)
HumbleMechanic what about if you have let's say a built engine for praformance aftermarket pistons,ect,turbo.
I think the right oils become even more important
Consider the fact that you lubricate all components like bearings, crank and cam ones (which basically are the most important). Your pistons are the least important in regards to engine lubrication. Stick with approved oil, trust me on this one!
+A Dude
Most engine bearings are hydrostatically/hydrodynamically pressure lubricated and pistons are boundary layer/film strength splash/mist lubricated and oil for for both are equally important.
Lubrication is only one function of motor oil in an engine, whether stock or all out high performance.
HumbleMechanic it's cool 😎 I buy all my oil @ dollar store
PAO is not "raw petrol" as he states at 6:33
To break it down in basic chemistry... Group 1-3 is long-chain simple hydrocarbons. Just a string of single-bonded carbon with hydrogen filling most of the the open bonds. The longer the carbon chain, the "heavier" the molecule, which is more viscous, less volatile, and more stable (for reference, Butane is a 4 carbon chain, Octane is an 8 carbon chain, whereas motor oil is around a 25-30 carbon chain). The more carbon-hydrogen bonds are filled in the molecule, the more "saturated" the molecule, which makes it more stable for a given weight.
Group 1 is distilled from a solvent base, and has the lowest saturation
Group 2 is distilled in the presence of hydrogen, filling most of the open hydrogen bonds, and creating more saturated molecules
Group 3 is "hydro-cracked", where heavier hydrocarbons treated with hydrogen under heat and pressure are "cracked" to become "lighter"/shorter chain hydrocarbons with almost all the hydrogen bonds filled
Group 4, or Poly Alpha Olefin (PAO), is also a long chain hydrocarbon. But, at one end of the molecule (in the "Alpha" position) is double-bonded carbon. This slippery synthetic molecule containing double bonded carbon is, by nature, more stable and less volatile than even a fully-saturated simple hydrocarbon.
Group 5 is a catch-all for everything else (silanes, alkylated benzenes, esters, etc.).
Actually, molecules in a PAO base stock do not have C=C double bonds. C=C double bonds (or Pi electron systems) are highly reactive by nature so you would not want them in an engine oil.
PAO molecules are synthesized as polymers from alpha-olefines which are defined by having a single C=C double bond on the first (so-called alpha position) carbon atom of the chain. During the polymerization, the C=C bonds are being broken and used to form long-chained base stock molecules, ideally with a high grade of isomerization as well (which is necessary for a high viscosity index).
Also, HC or PAO does not state anything about the base stock's actual quality. Both processes can produce comparable results depending on the way the process is handled and which catalyst is used. There are poor HC base stocks which are inferior to even mid-quality PAO base stocks, but high quality HC base stocks can compete with even a good PAO in every aspect.
The only thing that really sets PAO apart is that you can good quality and a base stock with high selectivity with a relatively easy effort, compared to HC.
Sadly, you will never know how good or bad your engine oil's base stock actually is if you have an unused oil because no one will tell you about the base stock's viscosity index (VI). The only VI you will ever see is the one printed in the product data sheet - and this one is for the engine oil itself (which contains additional viscosity index improvers, especially if you run a higher viscosity range like 0W-40, 5W-50 or 10W-60).
The german guy is weak at oils and is pushing a Group III as the best base there is. It´s not better that group IV (PAO)...
lol
That "Catch-All" Group 5 is used in turbine engines. Huge PAO content.
NO, huge POE group 5 content. PAO in a turbine oil would varnish up and degrade. PAO cant take the heat like a POE.
My MKIV R32 Back in 2004 called for Mobil 1 0W-40, at that time Volkswagen had a contract with Mobil , I still use it till this day and I changed my oil today!
I've got a 92 GTI with a 2.0 16 valve and it would take 20w 50 for the summer; however, during the winter I ran 10w 40. This was over a decade ago. Thank you!
The more oil videos I watch the more confused I am.
simply replace all fluids at regular interval
Because they don't know what they are talking about. They just repeat what they were told.
@@MrOsasco I just fallow my Vehicle Service Book or Owners Manual . simple.
@@glasser2819 Yes! Use any good synthetic and change it per the owner's manual, more frequently for city / severe service driving.
Me too1
I was surprised to see the comment section open and nobody getting downright mean and stuff that normally comes about in an oil video. I think its pretty cool Liquimoly sent this dude all the way from Germany to talk about wiscosity with us.
+E150GT me too lol. People seem to have a very strong attachment to oil. One that I don't fully understand. Haha
HumbleMechanic I knew a guy who swore QS blew his engine. He hated synthetic, too. He put 10W-40 in everything. Talk about stubborn!
Quaker State and Pennzoil are both made by Shell Oil Products, USA. But Pennzoil has better technology than Quaker State. Pennzoil was first to get their Pure Plus gas to liquid technology.
Well stupid,I’ll fix that for you! You know jack! Whatever crap oil your using is wrong! Feel better now? 😜
Hahahaha
I like my Liqui Moly for years and years now, probably since when this video went online. Here in Germany it is widely available and considered the "good" oil to put in last after a flush. The oil, the additives (used with care and caution) and the overall perception makes me feel good using these products. Others might be just as good but I think LM is quite transparent about what they do AND they actually get back to you when you have a question as an end user. Quite good
I just changed to Liquimoly from Castrol in my 1 8 B5.5, it seems pretty happy with it.
1.9 tdi 97kw b5.5 from regular Castrol edge td to the new one Castrol edge titanium... I don' believe in this LM snake oil.
Liqui Moly and Motul certainly lead the pack in price but other brands make the same claims about quality and lubrication technology. If you have the right multigrade and specification, adhere to the recommended oil changes, I believe you'll keep your engine healthy no matter which brand you use.
I own a 1991 Ford Explorer which I purchased new. The recommended oil at the time was 20W-50 and I have used it ever since. Every engine rebuild manual says that synthetics will not work in my 4.0L engine. Despite that, I have tried both blends and pure synthetics - 5W30, 0W40, etc. Both turn black and drop my oil pressure. When I go back to the 20W-50 my oil pressure returns to normal and the oil becomes clean. One mechanic told me that the synthetic was blowing by the rings and that was what was causing the black. So, I guess the moral of the story is that many older engines, at least mine, will not tolerate synthetics. Love the channel - thanks for the great info.
i am using LM mos2 10w-40 in my car and the black color of it scares almost everyone who sees it for the first time,but i really love that oil gave my engine a new life.
I only use Liqui-moly 5W40 full synthetic in my 1999 Merc. ML320 which now has 302,650 miles on it.
How’s the maintenance been and how often you change the oil?
there is 23 different 5w40 liqui moly oil
By law in Germany and Japan, if the label says "Synthetic" it must be Group 4 or Group 5 (Ester).
The Mercedes M112 and M113 V6 and V8 engines were in my opinions one of the best V6s ever made by any manufacturer. For sure they are the best engine Mercedes has made in the last 30 years. I have a 2001 E320 wagon with 385k (city) miles on it and other than oil changes (0w40 Mobil 1 for me), I have not had to do any repairs to the engine itself. I have changed MAF's and crank position sensors once each, and because of the dual spark plugs per cylinder MB's plug interval is every 150k miles! Same goes for the 722.6 transmission, one of the best automatics. If the early 2000s Mercedes' didn't have the rust issue, they would be considered the last bulletproof benz. Luckily for me I'm in california and cars don't rust here.
@@Uninfluenceable keep your bullet proof car, the new ones can barely pass 100k with all the plastics and soft timing parts, economy sized gaskets 😂
one thing about these newer thinner motor oils: Faster cold oil changes! Remove that drain plug and wooooosh empty.
#flatratethatshit HAHAH
I use Liqui Moly 5W-30 in my 2004 BMW 760 for 11 years no issues,130K no smoke. Nice video.
This is the video that gives you all the information needed. Unfortunately, there are few that kind of explanations out there. Good job
I ran liquimoly in my 1992 mkII. I ran 15w40. Amazing oil, amazing car.
Great video. No hard sell/trumpet blowing by the Liqui Moly guy. They know they are good so they don't need to do that. So next oil change i am going to get LM =)
ManCraft I used to use LM too but after using a group 5 oil(chemlube), I have never used LM anymore.
@@nunchaks700 Where is Chemlube oil sold? I can't find it anywhere , except for Chemlube compressor oil. Where do you get Chemlube motor oil for cars?
@@JAY_SS88 Hi JV, you can purchase them in the States no problem. Since they're manufactured there anyways.
@@JAY_SS88 www.chemlube.com.my/contact_us.php
Try contacting them via their website.
@@nunchaks700 Thanks for the information , I appreciate it.
This was the most savvy interview with Steffen of LiquiMoly that I've seen thus far. Super informative!
Thanks!
When you need engine oil, go the website of your preferred brand and use their Oil Checker to get a quote for the right oil you need.
Most of the oil checkers ask for the car registration. Others go off make, model and year but its very easy to find the right oil.
By the way, if its a 5w30 application, I always use VW504.00/507.00 spec oil because 504.00/507.00 is for both petrols and diesels and has a superior additive package.
I been using -10W75
He is so humble
i use Rotella 5w-40 Diesel Oil in my '06 Rabbit 2.5. Actually doing an Oil change tomorrow!
this a truck engine oil, right?
I get Liqui Moly Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40 Engine Oil for my VW. It does a pretty good job.
I use the same in my Audi S3.
Liquimoly makes great stuff, their Diesel Purge is almost magical in its effectiveness on Mercedes OM617 engines.
I need to find a TDI to test it on. Everyone seems to rave about the Diesel Purge
HumbleMechanic it's mostly diesel #2 with some cleaning additives. just prime the fuel filter with vw approved additive
my local porsche mechanic just recommended liqui moly he about had a fit when i suggested using mobil 1...
Josh Dollins lol is Mobil1 not as great as they say ?
My understanding is that a few years ago Mobil 1 was a very good full-synthetic i.e. 100% man-made oil but after the bust up with Castrol over what constitutes "full synthetic" they were told that they could make oils derived from crude that they could call "full synthetic" so they did and the resulting oil is not, to my eyes, as good. Apparently only Germany uses the old definition of full synthetic these days so it is far far harder to work out what you're getting.
I'm pretty sure Porsche factory fill is Mobil 1 ultimate all round performance 0w-40
slickstrings Mobil 1 0w-40 is 100% synthetic.
Kent from Mercedessource likes this oil. You can check out his videos on UA-cam. Great to listen and learn.
Any oil labeled Synthetic and made in Germany or Japan must be Group 4 - real synthetic. Unlike the U.S.. Here, the words "Synthetic", "100% Synthetic" or "Full Synthetic" have no definition. It can be Group 3 or 4.
Try Amsoil
AMSOIL Signature Series is Group 4/5. Excellent real Synthetic. The only other U.S. real syns are REDLINE and Royal Purple.
Very cool stuff; it was a good refresher most of the way through. The approval versus spec bit was completely new to me, though!
It's also good timing because I am arranging an interview with an oil company near me, and I will need some good questions for them.
Good info but I would like more info on the groups. He seemed reluctant to talk about group 4, I'm guessing liquimoly is group 3.
Steven Froese know they make both. You have to look on the material, it will say. One of their 0w40 is group iv fully. He said the III was better, interesting. With oil, I go with what is on sale and change often (3k). Depends on how you drive your car...
I wish they made a group 5 like Redline and Motul.
It is group 3, with [maybe] a splash of group 4 in it, like he said. Amsoil and Blue Diamond are group 4 and meet european specs, so I don't know why he said group 4 does not meet the specs.
I definitely walked away from this video learning something I hadn’t known. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you so much. Been changing oil in my cars for years, and I honestly didn’t know this. I just thought as long as I matched the big numbers on the bottle, I was good. But nope, need to read the fine print.
Possibly the best 18 minutes of my life!
The "wiscosity" on the bottles are so misleading because they are printed much larger then the "specs" which is what you should be looking for before the wiscosity...
Very informative, many thanks to both of you!
"Thumbs UP"
I've been using Royal Purple 10w-30 in my Honda B18A1 since it was built 30k miles ago re-bored at +.020. No complaints so far but never really had anyone tell me how well matched it is to my engine.
Project Farm did a motor oil extensive testing on about 20 popular brands and sadly Liqui Moly was 3rd to last in line and failed against the cheapest oils out there! Amazon freakin' Basic and Walmart's Super Tech motor oil BEAT Liqui Moly in the first round! How in hell could that be???
The winners of the oil testing was no other than AMSOIL Signature 💯% Synthetic oil and second place was Pennzoil Ultra Platinum motor oil!!!
Goodbye Liqui Moly, hello Pennzoil Ultra for my BMW 5 M-Sport! The cleaning power of Pennzoil is in another level unmatched! Now i know why BMW switch from Castrol to Pennzoil as their now OEM synthetic motor oil!!!
At the end of the video I was still confused about oil. The thing I got from this is. Oil protects my engine and stick with the recommended oil the manufacturer specifies.
Just go to an engine oil website such as Castrol, Quantum, Mobil .... etc
Browse to the oil selector on the website, type in the car's registration and you will be advised on the right multi-grade and specification oil you need for the car.
A lot of the oil selectors will ask you to select your global location since the climate temperature will be considered in the selection.
They made everything possible to get you confused and to be afraid not just to change oil in your car. You suppose to be afraid of even to buy it. Bravo VW! Money for the trip to States wasn't wasted.
I use what is recommended in my manual
Hmm yes the motor oil taste like motor oil.
He tells me 10w-30 is outdated...... syn-blend Is outdated ( I use castrol high-mile )...my wife says our '89, '92, '92 2/7/940's are outdated. I'm beginning to feel outdated.
holidayhouse03 time for a convertible and a gold chain to compensate 😂
fwd is out dated and crap but they still make that rubbish but i used to compare all cars to a 1987 toyota supra or sl500 1996 build quality .just go see if you can get a late model aluminum cylinder bore BMW v8 to last 200k more thiefing bmw junk engine with very nice interior
Just face it! :D
Sansui Mcpeters they don't make them like they used to for sure ... globalist assholes.
holidayhouse03 🤣🤣
I love the 10W-60 for my car. It's half the price of OEM and stays thicker at higher temps =D I use ceratec just because why not.
but higher oil vicosity is equal to higher oil pressure.... if the engine was engenered for 5W30 and you put 10W60, the pressure could be too high and you risk leak or even blown a gasket cover sealing or have low flow and anctually lubricate less than with thiner oil... just go with the recommended specs from the manufacturer
very good to see a representative from one of the manufacturers coming out to share some of the secrets to motor oil. I noticed that he talked a bit about base oils. there is so much controversy out there about group 3 and group 4 base oils. Steffen said that current group 3 oils are outperforming group 4. with group 4 being pretty much the highest refined petroleum oil you can buy, I wander about this. I believe it is possible that the GTL group 3 may be close to group 4 but I'm curious as to how any group 3 base stocks will outperform a group 4.
Modern Grp. III GTL base stocks are indeed really good.
The question is not whether they are really good. The question is whether they are better than PAO base stock
I think the point the Liqui Moly guy was making was that group 3 stocks see more development, and due to this are higher performing.
With regard to this, I think this is an entirely possible. There are plenty of initially inferior designs that have gone further and faster due to lower initial costs or initial ease of production.
its been puzzling me too...but ur video has cleared it up so now i feel confident in the future on my oil choices
LiquiMoly TopTec 4600 5W-30 5L can is 44$ in Macedonia. I will buy it and use it on my next service.
when i was a dealer mechanic we had 1 oil for all the cars but the manufacture had all sorts of different oil requirements for different engines. I worked for mercedes. no matter if a 1973 or a 2008 car came in they got the same oil. except for 1 kind of engine.
Been using Castrol full synthetic on my 2003 GTI VR6 (24v) for 19 years now, and my new mechanic suggests I change to Liqui Moly. Are there any advantages or disadvantages in switching to Liqui Moly after 115K miles? Thanks.
I don’t think so but if you have been using castrol for 19 years I would just stick with what has been working
Stefan responded to my questions to LM about the new Volvo spec ("RB") that superceded in 2020 the ACEA A5/B5 5W30 for the new generation 4 cylinder engine; he kindly explained why Volvo, after testing, determined that an elevated engine specific spec was required. Liquid Moly has that 0W20 oil, clearly labeled for the new Volvo spec, and quite frankly is the easiest to find of the few oils that do meet it. I advise being careful as it is so easy to get the wrong oil; in fact, there are two Vovlo specs out there now, one for the new gen, and one for the previous 5/6 cylinder engines. Thanks Stefan.
He’s the man
Why is the first value called "Winter" when it's the viscosity measurement at 40C, which is over 100F? That ambient temp sounds like Summer to me. Winter is usually more like 0C or 32F.
It’d be nice if it was their oil in the bottle but my understanding is they obtain the base stock from a refiner and then they may add their own additive package. It’s psychologically a great oil.
The main killer for turbo chargers is not cooling down Turbo charger after driving by idliling it for turbine housing to cool down enough not to cook bearings
Thanks, many people don't know that.
So what is it?
And for how long it needs to idle?
The main killer of turbos is no oil flow at start-up and shut down. Don't accelerate much when cold and let the engine idle down so the turbo is as slow as possible before turning off the engine. What actually kills the turbo bearings is "coking" when the oil is no longer pressurized in the turbo bearing. Always use a PAO or polyol ester-based Group 4 oil like Motul, Amsoil Signature, Redline or Royal Purple. There is no meaning to the terms: "Full Synthetic", 100% Synthetic", or "Synthetic" . These are just marketing terms. It's either Group 3 phony syn or Group 4 real syn. All German or Japanese made oil labeled "synthetic" must be Group 4. Only in America can a modified hydrocarbon oil (hydrocracked) from Dino Oil or Natural Gas be called "Synthetic". Group 4 is best for turbos, racing or towing as Group 4 has higher heat resistance.All synthetic oil in U.S. before 1997 was Group 4. Since then, the consumer has been fooled into confusing Group 3 and Group 4. Instead of Mobil 1 or Castrol Edge, which are Group 3, just go to WalMart and buy Super Syn. It meets GM Dexos spec.
Akos Sandor 👌True
My daily driver is a 1983 Toyota 2.4 lt. diesel hilux. I change the oil and filters every 6 months I pick off the shelf on special oil or the cheapest. It has never left a single drop of oil on my driveway. The 35 year old engine still runs like a dream and will outlast the car itself as the body is now full of cancer and I will have to reluctantly replace this awesome car.
Use thicker oil on a hot season and thinner oil on winter...
Excellent excellent video. Thanks! Used Liquimoly in my 2012 TDI... until VW was forced to but it back by the evil EPA.
Only one VW left here now. I've had A4, B5, A5, and common rail.
I had to make sure which damn oil goes in what!
But now I have a vehicle that can use Rotella, thank God! No more 501.3, 502, 50whatever to keep straight.
NICE!!! Well not the EPA part ;)
A1/B1 andA5/B5 are low HTHS VI. oils .>2,9; and A3/B3 and A3/B4(B4 stand for direct injection diesel engine and,B3 for indirect diesel injection)with HTHS >3.5,
Really great information! I've been running LiquiMoly in my 24v 2.8l since I've owned it. Definitely the longest lasting!
LiquiMoly is great oil, but in a practical sense, how much better is it than, say, Mobil 1? I doubt there is much difference.
@@johne7345 in my bmw i use liqui molly because of the long life-01 designation.
@@raybutts9133 My younger son puts a lot of miles on his BMW, and he is a big liquimoly fan, as well. I drive so little that I change oil annually.
I tend to think cheap non spec oil accounts for the unusually leaky and oil burning examples of the usually better German cars on the road. Willfully ignorant egotistical owners who bought the car purely for image, who are offended that cars need maintenance, and are convinced the useful life of any car is 3yrs 36,000 miles because that’s how long their abuse and neglect takes to turn their cars into something no one would want to own.
Liqui Molly is a very good engine oil,still made in Germany! Unfortunately it is not readily available,I hope Stephan is aware of that.
It's available on Amazon (dot)com. But it's not cheap, I paid almost $70 for 9 quarts of 15w40 high mileage diesel oil.
amzn.to/2n2vLbq They have a lot on Amazon. Plus places like ShopDAP.com sell too.
Napa carries it in most stores, and any Napa can order it if you ask.
tjsean0308 Are you in the US? I'm in Canada and hopefully the local Napa can do the same at a reasonable price, if not I'm stuck buying over $100 online of it to get free shipping lol. Really wish I could walk into a store and find it readily available.
I am in the US. I Imagine the corporate suppliers are the same north of the border. Can't hurt to ask them to carry it, especially if there are other diesel drivers in your area the 0w could be a good seller for them.
everyone has their two cents about oil. My experience, OEM. If your car is old enough conventional. Newer synthetic. Thats just me. Makes my life easier. My 09 IS has been running alot better when I switched back to conventional OEM 5w30. Heats up faster. Runs much smoother than the synthetic 5w30. Ive tried all of those name brands. Found OEM is where its at and nothing more to question.
Manufacturers viscosity and spec are for the car you are driving as manufactured. They also meet Green House enforced laws. If you have modified your engine output, I would consider slightly increasing the viscosity while trying to maintain the spec requirement. Honestly, even when using other brands (other than what was discussed here) you would be perfectly fine as well.
Adhering to manufacturer claims of Oil Change Intervals (OCIs) is better managed by doing them sooner than at the time a "book" says you should. If you started and drove a car on a fresh oil change for 10,000mi w/o ever stopping and without ever getting into high RPMs for extended periods, you could go 10K mi on that oil. But, if you are like the many others - you start and stop, short trips, spirited driving, etc etc; then, you will want to conduct an OCI far sooner than what a "book" says you should.
Full Synthetic oils all have detergents in them and modifiers - some a bit more than others, but that won't ruin your day as long as you keep with a more frequent OCI.
The way I choose: go to autoshop website, enter my plate and it'll spits out the oil and then choose what my manufacturer recommends, like Castrol which leaves me with 1 or 2 options. And then whatever is on special :D
Steffen! Hadn't seen that dude outside the Disco Tek.
That guy knows how to party and dance.
one important fact not discussed is the change in oil requirements as wear and mileage goes up. New verses 200,000 miles and higher.
in winter, i couldn't find the oil i wanted, so i used full syn 0-40
and meow im back to 10-30
worked well for the north east
i've also used 20-50 full syn durring last summer, quieted my lifters, and worked fine
If your engine calls for 10w30, using 5w40 Full Synthetic would be great for it.
I have used this liquimoli oil and while it is not bad, i was not impressed with it. Ive heard a lot of talk for the amsoil and i was skeptical. So i decided to try that one also and i can say that i could tell the difference in my car - amsoil being far superior to liquimoli or mobil one. And no im not a dealer for amsoil so i have no interest in promoting amsoil. The downside of amsoil is that its not widely available, but in my case i was able to find it at an o’reilly part store here in so california. So for anyone who is picky on their synthetic oil, they should definitely give amsoil a try-the signature series.
Last year, I found out that liqui moly makes 0W16 specifically made for Toyota and Honda engines that require that oil.
It’s what I’m currently using right now and so far I’m having good experience with liqui moly and I also use Amsoil.
If you add a drop of synthetic to a 275 gallon drum of conventional, you now technically and legally have a synthetic blend. Don't bother with blends.
yep, you can just consider "Semi-Synthetic" to be overpriced conventional
I agree. Back when blends came on the market I tried in vain to find someone, anyone, to nail down the ratio for a particular brand. No one could tell me definitively. Then Wal-Mart came out out with supertech full sun at a low price. Say what you will, it's been fine for me over the years.
13% by law, the last time I checked. I've been mixing my own since 1975. Started with one quart of Amsoil mixed with 4 quarts of Valvoline.
Ford has specified synthetic blend oil for years (Motorcraft brand). They are not "outdated" for all cars like the Liqui-Moly spokesperson said.
In Germany, by law, oil marketed as full synthetic has to be 100% synthetic (and group 4 or 5 - yes, there is also group 5). Only country where this is the case as far as I know.
The scenario Dave described above, is what led to having laws.et's be glad of it.
I use the oils listed on 540rat oil blog and I send my used oil off to Blackstone labs. That is the way to be sure you are using the best possible oil. If you look up 540rat oil blog you will find a long discussion about oils and independent testing.
Thanks for the discussion!
+Thomas Burns cool! I'm gonna check it out.
The Bobistheoilguy.com forum is even better.
+Capri Driver that sight has a crazy amount of info.
Some of the info on the 540rat site is also flawed and misleading.
He publishes figures that are not derived using industry standard laboratory analysis equipment, procedures or methods.
His published figures are questionable because he conducts his "analysis" using his home made testing apparatus of his own design that does not use industry standard design, metrics, methods or control procedures.
Much of his published elemental values are directly from the published refiner/packager data and not based on independent laboratory testing/analysis.
With all the info that can be found online and with what this gentleman said, why do many still think the w means weight?
+fordwindsor351 actually a ton.
Many people don't care.
There's a terrible tendency people have to accept explanations they convince themselves as "logical" and stop looking. They've heard "weight" before, see "W" in the number and are satisfied just making a "logical" conclusion.
Sadly his explanation of the 5W was 100% incorrect as it DOES NOT define oil viscosity at 40 degrees Celsius...It is defined by measuring oils cold cranking ability at freezing temp, 0 degrees Celsius.by using a piece of metal in a beaker of oil with a magnet beneath it to determine how much energy is needed to turn the metal using the magnet beneath the beaker...Cold Cranking Ability
Motul in the trans and Amsoil for the engine. Works great
Awesome discussion, I learned a lot. I bet 90% of customers just look at the W number when they buy oil at service stations... LOL
Thank you for putting up this video Charles. I speak highly of you on my VW Tiguan review & I use Liquimoly for my How to Change VW Tiguan oil change video.
Thank you very much :)
Liqui-Moly isn't anything special. People think in Germany it will be in specialist stores and all this, but the reality is that it's sold in supermarkets next to supermarket brands and in some gas stations. They simply have good market penetration and a large line (with unnecessary redundant oils). Specialist stores where performance oils are sold typically have other stuff, but only carry the specialty LM oils, like ZHF, DSG fluid, and so on. If you go to higher end stores and specialist shops, you are finding Motul, Castrol, a host of high-end high performance oils, Mobil 1 (which is starting to penetrate the market now). Pretty much, most people know that if you really care about the car and/or are demanding, use Motul. Hell, even companies like Aral and Total (gas station vendors) have great oils and Shell has really high end oils, too, which are specified by a couple of exotic manufacturers.
I called Mobil talked to an engineer and he said Mobil 1 EP and the new annual oil are just conventional replacements and not designed for high temp or modified turbo engines. I was shocked, engineers see things way differently
Too much group3 in them. dirty little secret....they keep reducing PAO because they are ON CRACKED oil for profits.
I would love more info and maybe even a special video on Ceratec oil additive.. and weather to use every 5K or just once and let the residual effects work for 30K... or so.
The last time I changed my oil in my 2001 Deville. I put a quart of Kendell, Warren, Quick Trip, half quart of Super Tech and about 3 quarts of full synthetic Mobile One. If you think I’m playing, check out my video.
Thank you Steffen and Charles! That was very educational!
:)
As always continuing to do a great service to your neophyte family.
Great video and explanation, Liqui Moly is the best. Greetings from Ecuador.
Delete DPFs and simplify your oil shopping. 😎
My diesel works soo much better now that the DPF and EGR are in the rubbish bin
I learned something new about the newest changes in the oil, and one was with the 5W-30 oil, which my vehicles uses except for one and didn't know that the W stands for Winter driving.
I definitely learned something from this video. Pentosin oil is my preference. Thanks for the video..
your engine will go 300k on supertech or mobil 1 with reg oil changes, 10k or less. I go 6k on synthetic oil which is very conservative....turbos and cold starts are tough on oil
When you want to buy a good oil, first read the oil specifications and then select the oil. Group IV is the only true synthetic. Group III isn't fully synthetic because it's not pure enough.
Just watched and read a ton about oil weight ant 4 minutes in it's already more info that I got from the last 2 hours.
Good video guys. I love it when the train spotting chemical engineers commenting, start to pull apart wayward remarks etc. The API grades and SAE oil viscosity recommendations by your vehicle manufacturer's is about all we need to be critical about when selecting oil but always from the perspective of the temperature range that we expect to operate the engine at. What I am curious to learn though, is whether there are any inherent disadvantages when using oils with very large viscosity ranges such as 0W-50 and 10W-60.
So now I'm more confused than ever? I'm looking for Information on keeping my 42 year old engine running as a daily driver? Back in the day, you used a good oil and filter and changed it often. For the past few years I've been running mobile 1 with lucas ddp additive. From what I hear, I really need to be running Amsoil Z rod? BUT? this is a daily driver in a temperate climate! I'll be impressed when a company delivers an oil That meets The Dayrider76 living in Wyoming and still drives a Firebird year round spec! Till then, It's Mobile 1 high mile synthetic with lucas ddp! It's gotten me this far!
Listen if you put anything close to factory and change it anywhere close to on time, odds are rust, or electronics will kill the car before the engine. Oil does not matter as much as one thinks CHANGING IT does...
I disagree Matt. My car has a very tight oil specification and this requirement cannot be met with conventional oils. There's far more to oil than just SAE viscosity. You can change it every day if you want but you will still destroy the car.
Oil does not matter unless you are driving an air cooled Rotax short track racer at 14000 rpm.
Truth is, they both matter. Use the proper oil and change it when it gets dirty. Use the oil service gauge if you have one, and give your engine an extra change now and then.
Mos2 is An amazing additive I can’t recommend it enough !!!!!! Y’all should check it out
In the USA , group 4 requires that the oil label states 100% synthetic otherwise it is a blend.. When it says fully synthetic is a blend. Don’t be fooled by that marketing bs... in Europe is not required to state 100% on the label..
16:49 Magical Mystery Stuff? You've been working on too many Beatles, er... Beetles.
I thought I knew a lot about oil. This was great now I know much more. I like the idea of the recipe mix.
Klaus the fish from Family Guy is an oil expert?, Wow!
Just a silly joke, great info guys!
Fun Videos American Dad, actually.
+Fun Videos Hahahah love it
I use 20 - 50 diesel engine lubrication oil in all my engines ( i own old machines )
Thanks for making this video and providing good information
Liqui Moly is good oil!!Is exactly the information in the botle!!Castrol lie the information!!
What you did not cover was the need for Zinc in Flat Tappet engines and if a Engine is modified with forged pistons. I run 20W 50 in a 454 Big block with forged pistons using Racing Oil with Zinc additive. The need for a heavier oil like 20W50 is because of the clearance of the forged pistons when cold and the need for thicker lubrication under High Stress engines. Royal Purple and Valvoline F1 are superior Oils. If you are going to do a discussion of Oils you should not be biased and wear a products shirt!
OEM recommendations are just that, recommendations. And if you use a different oil and something happens under warranty it's the manufacturers job to prove it the oils fault. Just Buy a pure API approved 100% group 4 synthetic. and a quality filter.
I heard you can increase viscosity to increase compression (going from a 5w30 to a 5w40). How accurate or inaccurate is that? Does it only help retain compression on very worn out engine? In my case it's an '85 corolla.
Dragoon876 Complete myth
Engine oil is engine oil. What is most important is you have enough in your car engine. I have mixed 10W30, 5W30. 5W50, synthetic, non synthetic, petroleum based engine oil in my Rav4 and my Rav4 is still running fine after 18 years. Just do regular oil change once a year with a decent engine oil (whatever is on sale) and you'll be fine. Engine oils are designed to be highly compatible with one another despite what you view on UA-cam.
I have just subscribed to your channel. Your videos are 5 star plus. They are - informative, to the point (without all the waffle you usually get), well presented and interesting. You also convert Fahrenheit to Celsius! Awesome!! Thanks for all the effort and time it must have taken to make these videos as they are so helpful and are raising my I.Q and bank balance.
Thank you so much for the kind words!!! ❤️
I have never seen liquimoly being used as factory fill for any German vehicles. That speaks a lot. it's always Mobil. I'll keep using Mobil1. Though I have heard 30w oil in moly is good, 40w from Mobil is far superior.
+zhbvenkhoReload that's a great point. I wonder if it's a $$$$ thing or an oil product thing?