Will an Oil Extractor Get All The Oil? (MK7.5 Golf R 5000 Mile Service)
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- Опубліковано 5 лют 2025
- Using an engine oil extractor makes doing a VW oil change SUPER easy. The MK7.5 Golf R is the perfect car to extract the oil rather than drain the engine oil. But does using the oil extractor get all the oil out? Today we change the engine oil in the mk7.5 Golf R and test it out. We will use the extractor to get as much of the 5.7L out. Then we will remove the drain plug and see how much was left behind.
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Disclimer:
The content of this video is available for informational and educational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the professional advice of a mechanic who has personally inspected your vehicle, nor does it create a relationship of any kind between the Humble Mechanic and you. Every situation may be different, and the Humble Mechanic does not make any warranties, whether express or implied, as to the accuracy, fitness, or applicability of the information or automotive parts portrayed in this video to any project and makes no guarantee of results. The Humble Mechanic and any sponsors of this video will not be liable for any damages related to personal injury, property damage or loss of any kind that may result from the use or reliance on this video and/or any automotive parts represented in this video. You are using the information and automotive parts portrayed in this video solely at your own risk.
I’ve been using an extractor for the years. The convenience of using it means I change the oil more regularly. I was interested to see what was left in the sump. I can live with 100mls, which is about a fiftieth of the overall fill. Since I change the oil so regularly I can definitely live with that. With the the extractor I can do an oil and filter change in ten minutes. No raising the car, no removing panels and no mess. Works for me. Great video. One other thing, I always buy used cars. When I get a replacement, first thing I do is I swap out the oil In it with some cheap oil. I run it for a day or two with that, then I swap out that cheap oil with a top quality oil. It’s almost like an engine flush.
100 ml is 3.38 oz
@@jwattsup My car takes 7 .5 quarts, im not worried about that. There is residual oil all over the engine anyways, and it is getting diluted, if u change ur oil more often than normal because of how easy it is, i would say it is still a win in the long run. I been using one of those, and dont think twice about it, of course it helps with oil filter on top like my bmw has. I got 240k on my e46 which i still drive here and there as its a fun drive and runs excellent. That also is not highway miles, its city miles, only thing i have done other than change oil, is replaced water pump, plugs once and coil packs. So for using an oil extractor entire life of the car, and car is 21 years old, i would say it works pretty well.
@@reality150tv not a good example... That e46 is eternal 😀
@@eduardovcalado wtf are you talking about
@@reality150tv I believe he was being sarcastic knowing that BMW model will last long regardless😎
i think it's worth mentioning that since the extractor tube hits the oil pan while draining, the very bottom portion was actually sucked out at the very beginning, and what comes out when you open the drain plug was probably what was sitting at the top
My point would be a property maintained car wouldn’t have that even to worry about.
@@HumbleMechanic oh yeah, no doubt. I just wanted to say it to people who are arguing over this point.
Best comment ever!
Education has resulted in this perfect comment
When I use extractor I usually wait 5 minutes after all the oil was extracted and try again. It gets the rest that way.
I've done a little research online and found it maybe best to do your 1st oil change after 50 miles on a new car to drain metal deposits from brand new car parts. After the 50 mile mark, proceed with standard oil change intervals.
Informative video, though!! I'd stick with the drain plug and see if there's a reusable one. The splash guard is a pain in the ass. I ended up using washers to hold the bolts in place on '20 Honda Fit.... 4 or 5 bolts usually works.
Everything should be in suspension in the oil if you ran it before extracting.
My 1.0l tsi first oil change was 2 years or 20k miles.
No idea why.
@@davidgooch5883 how bout a no. You acting like your car is worth more than your house
@@c190gtc -- It is.
We have a Golf 4 TDI from 2000. Always done with an oil extractor. Engine is now at 650.000km. Never had problems.
Damn thats 403k miles.. mines got 323k miles..and counting!
Wow. I just rolled 160k.
lol i dont think ive ever seen a 4th golf tdi with less than 450,000km
Dan Dusome my golf 4 1.9 tdi has 220,000km
@@kinecty111 ATD 325 k km, just today replaced new turbo for it
This tool would be excellent for people that, don't have a garage, or living some sort of complex where they're not technically allowed to work on their car! With this, they can't accuse you of making a mess of oil in the parking lot!
90.00 way not worth it, works better for tran fluid, but use a hand syringe, much better.
This tool is also excellent for the “well-travelled” among us.
At 70 years, I don’t bend or twist like i used to, so hauling out the jack, jack-stands and assorted, and raising vehicle and safetying… well, it’s s difficult for me (not that I’d ever admit to this outside of a courtroom).
Top-side oil changes are a God-send for me, and there are many others.
Nah, still for most car you need to jack them up to replace the oil filters.
I'm looking to start a local mobile oil change service. That's what led me here! Would be perfect to show up at a warehouse or factory and get 20+ customers in 1 spot this tool would be gold!
@@hhemi0 my car has filter on the top 😁
I feel like the extractor is very convenient for someone who doesnt have a space to work on their car. I know from experience some apartment complexes do not let you work on your car, so an extractor would be faster and less risky.
Exactly my problem in my apartment.
@@abdullast3434 ha, same here, no oil changes, That's what they think lol
I do it right on the street 0_0
I remove one wheel where the oil filter is and drain the oil. Meanwhile I put wheel back on for discretion and just sit in the car while oil is dripping. Then I remove the filter, put new one back in, drain plug in, clean up, new oil in. I pour old oil into the chug where the new oil was and I am done. 30 min, no mess at all, nobody question me what I'm doing.
My complex doesn't allow them either they tell us we have to do it in our garage but there is literally barely enough room to even park or a car in the garage saw changing oil in there is literally impossible I literally have barely enough room to open the door so I do it outside anyways but I try to do it fast enough to where none of the neighbors see me but this one time some Karen came out and saw what I was doing and immediately took pictures and about a couple weeks or so later I received a letter in the mail saying that it was my first offense and that I'm not allowed to do it and on the second offense will have to pay a fee. I like to change my oil by draining it preferably but I might have to look into this even though I wasn't a big fan of it
I used an extractor at my apartments, after I finished the oil and filter change and checked oil level it was still black, so I would suggest doing oil change the classic way
When I change the oil I'm not comfortable leaving ANY oil. I do a complete tear down and rebuild to make sure there's no oil left :-P
Right on
@Satchel McQueen Video The best for my engine, bounty paper towels after I take apart the engine
I buy a new car every 5k miles
Lol just get a new car whenever it's time for an oil change
Who does oil changes when I can get a new car that doesn’t need one?
I change oil on my bmw twice a year (every 8,000 miles) in september and march so that it is changed for winter and summer. Been using an extractor for the past 4 changes now and i have to say it is a game changer! So much easier for the DIY maintainer!
Hi I have 320d m47n2 I'm really interested in buying one of these oil extraction machine, so I can change my oil every 6 month, I was wondering which brand and model you bought for your BMW thanks in advance
@@ravenkf142 I bought a Sealey 6.5L extractor:) great bit of kit!
@@drivelife.channel brilliant I'm going to buy one especially now she's 17 years old hence me wanting to change the oil every 6 months. Would you be able to tell me the model number of the Sealy you bought there's a few 6.5 litre ones Thanks so much for your help ☺️
I have a 99 Toyota rav4. Every time in the last year that I've gone to get an oil change, there's a ridiculously long wait. So I completely honestly have not gotten an oil change. 😬🫣 I check the oil regularly and add if necessary. I saw an oil extractor somewhere recently (probably Amazon) and suddenly it occurred to me that I could just do it myself with one of those. I am female, if that makes a difference. Anyway, I only drove my vehicle around 6-7k in the first year. I got it at the end of July last year, and I still haven't put 10k on it yet. So while I was at the store earlier buying oil and a filter, I was thinking I can probably do one in October and one in April, when the weather isn't bad. Now of course I'll be doing it November this year, because it's November 9th today. But November where I live (Colorado) can be pretty cold. Tomorrow should be mid 50s. That's when the extractor from Amazon should arrive, hopefully early enough to do it while it's still light out. But it thought it was interesting that we both thought of a similar schedule. March here can be pretty cold so that's why I chose April and October. October can have really warm days. This year it was terribly warm/hot all month.
I change the oil in my daily driver every 5,000 miles/8,000km. Full synthetic at every change.
Generally - the dipstick - has a Full and Low mark. And an Engine Oil drain - and refill - should put the Oil level at the Full mark. It does all depend on what the Owner's manual states. For example - a 2013 Subaru Outback - has TWO marks. Low & Full.
Full is just that. FILLED and full. Proper amount of oil causes it to be at the FULL mark. When the Engine is Hot and the oil has expanded - it will exceed the FULL mark. This does NOT mean you overfilled.
The 2011 Outback has THREE marks. Low, Full and HOT. Changing the Oil and putting in the required amount - causes the oil to be at the FULL mark. Driving and when Hot - the Oil level rises up and comes close to the HOT mark.
A 1/2 cup or even 1 Cup of extra oil - will not damage the Engine.
Draining the Oil and putting in the stated amount for a Drain and Fill with Change of Oil Filter - is the correct procedure for an Oil Change. Not - a vague - get the oil level at the "Halfway" on the dipstick. That is just WRONG - unless that is what is stated to do in the Owner's Manual or the Service Manual. However - those two items always state an AMOUNT to put in - when doing an Oil Change. They do not leave you checking the Dipstick to find out you 'over filled' because you are more than Halfway up the dipstick. Or you under filled. And have to add just a little bit more - till it is at the halfway mark...
Quit telling people WRONG stuff. The way you checked on your oil fill amount - was WRONG. Drained just the Oil? Pour in the MEASURED amount for just an Oil drain and fill - as stated in the Owner's manual. Drained the Oil and Changed the Filter? Put in the MEASURED amount for an Oil and Filter change - as per the Owner's manual. Start the car - let it run for a minute; check for leaks; shut off and check the oil level. In case you drained the Transmission oil instead of the Engine. Or some other stupid mistake - which have been made before. If you did it properly - you will be FINE. Your insistence of being halfway on the Oil indicator dipstick - is WRONG.
I used an extractor for years. I sold my last car at 178,000 miles and it was still going strong so I can attest that half cup of leftover oil doesn’t make any difference.
No ramps or fussing with the belly tray and I’d have had no trouble changing my oil in a suit and tie if I’d chosen to. The only reason I stopped using the extractor is I now have a BMW which doesn’t have a dipstick. Now there’s an abomination!
No dip stick... wtf
Yeah, I belive the oil level is shown in the dashboard
Yep! Same in my Porsche Cayenne.
Yooo touregs with the v8s dont that shit is annoying never get a v8 touregs if ur doing maintenance on it
Don't it have a plug where the dipstick would be, ya pull that and suck out the oil, ?
I just remembered a guy I use to work with years ago, who would leave his vehicle drain plug out, over the weekend (he had two vehicles) until the VERY LAST drop came out, and proclaimed this was the best way to change oil. Lol.....he would probably have a stroke if he saw you left 100ml behind
Same as me, leave the drain plug off for one day, next day back home from work pour some engine oil in before put the drain plug back on, after dinner secure the drain plug put in engine oil crank up the engine for few times before put in oil filter. 😁😁😁😁
DING PONG CHI are you serious? What do you have a Ferrari? Seems overkill no?
@@kryptoniteee no, first of all i am a mechanic, second it is a passion for my hobby job.and it doesn't matter what car was it i to have respect it and give him the best i could.
@@kryptoniteee indeed overkill
DING PONG CHI hey ding dong ping Chong. I’m glad it makes you happy. You should be happy, but put more effort into helping others. It’s not good to be selfish. I’ve seen too many people being selfish, it doesn’t end well, they die sad and lonely. It doesn’t matter that people are liking and agreeing with my comment, what matters is that you are happy and selfless.
Another cool thing about an oil extractor is that if you overfill you can easily remove extra oil.
bottom line which ever you like to do works fine for an oil change as he proves with this video plain and simple
You can always avoid that by not putting in that last litre, rule of thumb. 👍🏻
You can also loosen the oil filter and let some oil drain out. Way more flow control than messing with the drain plug.
After 30 years of playing with cars, I finally bought an extractor for my Audi. An Amazon electric pump for $25.
I forgot that I only put in what I take out and it was 4.5 qts, about .5 shy of my normal changes. So hooked the pump back up and 2 minutes later, the level was correct. I was surprised that the overfill oil I took out looked almost like the dirty oil from the change. Does leaving .5 qt behind make a major difference?
there is no overfill if you dont exceed 20% of the normal amount of oil.. the real problem is to less oil. thats a fact.
As they say: "The Solution to Polution is Dilution"
With only .1L of oil left in you have more than 98% of the fluid being new. With the underbody shield in place that I seem to strip half the nut clips whenever I touch them, I'm personally more inclined to use an extractor.
You do not need to remove the belly pan to remove the drain plug on this car - it ends before the back of the oil pan.
@@rjw123987 not familiar the Golf R specifically, just the Mk7 TDI... you still have to pull the underbody tray to get at the oil filter... this is why for $80 the dealer does the oil change (especially when just the oil and filter alone come to around $70)
@@exparrot9074 Yes, for TDI. I made a access hole in the pan
@BassVentura you do not change the filter every oil change?
Hansel Franzen What sludge? Drop the pan. There is none.
I just cringe when I see composite plastic oil pans, plastic drain plugs, oil pickup and windage trays. So sad.
Its alot cheaper
ExTaCiii of course bottom line counts for everything, manufacturers always work on compromise vs cost.
You're stuck in the past man
Incognito nah fella I know. The day will come when your vehicle is made entirely of composite materials for recycling, keep the car for 5 years then it’s recycled. Vintage cars will no longer exist.
I totally agree with you.
If i may add. I have a Subaru Legacy. Oil filter is the top. And i use this oil extractor from HF. Easiest oil change i have ever done. And no. I really dont care that im only getting 95% of the oil or what ever it is. Its simple. Cheap. And most importantly it saves me alot of time.
Nice video. I just bought an extractor. To me it's a no brainer: No wear on the drain plug, no possibility of stripping said plug and pan, no removal of splash shields, no jacking/ramping of car necessary, IE: much safer, not to mention no oil drain pan so much less chance of spilling the used oil. The small amount of oil that' s left will be changed out at the next service. I just did a tranny service on mine and was amazed at how easy it was compared to dropping the pan. Which can be really messing and lead to leaks. Just change the transmission filter every second or third time. The condition of the fluid is most important. If the filter is clogged, you left the fluid in too long and the tranny is on it's way out.
Same thoughts here. No jacking up the vehicle, and no requirement to remove the drain plug ever again. This compares with replacing the entire oil pan because of those oil change mechanics using pneumatic tools to loosen/ tighten the oil drain plug. Much cleaner method. I can live with 1/2 cup of residual oil as compared to the previous methods, outdoor in 32degree freezing weather conditions at the 10K mile interval.
I pull the plug, When it stops dripping, I add a lil fresh oil and when I see clean oil from the drain, I put the plug back in.
That's because you're not stupid, draining oil gets the fodder and metal shavings out.
This is common practice in rotating machinery, which does not have a filter. I have never done this on a car, the filter will usually be sized to filter all the oil several times an hour
@@Ez-sk8ig I've Been a mechanic all my life, Build machinery, maintain it. Fire Department Mechanic (retired) I sell my car when they hit 300,000. I'll keep doing it my way..
@@Evil-Jesus sorry, my comment was more directed at the reply mentioning shavings etc... your process is the same as is used in heavy industry and the results don't lie, however we also use predictive maintenance and have vibration engineers and chemistry analysis and plasma gas spectroscopy for determining wear particles, but having visible shavings in a gearbox means hard parts replacement. My car has plastic oil pans, with magnets for catching any metal particles, but there's nothing wrong with a thorough flush of old oil.
Me, TOO! Good practice 👍
My Old Saturn ION ENGINE had the same style upper OIL filter setup and oil ring and I never changed the OIL RING just inspected it with a bright light and lubed it and changed the filter inspected the Nylon filter holder threads etc and interior for reinstallation and never leaked a drop of oil ever. I love this OIL FILTER DESIGN its super nice to change oil without oil all over the frame etc like a traditional setup with old metal can filters.
Not sure where the O-Ring needs to go on the cap... can you please be more specific?
right.... there... :)
You should make a separate video, just to explain this important topic. I feel like it was just glossed over in this one - barely even mentioned.
There is an obvious channel the seal sits in. The filter even has an illustration inside the box telling you where it goes.
instructions unclear, dick stuck in a vice.
@@LynxStarAuto Insert meme... of a missed joke.
I think the best practice is changing oil every weekend with complete engine replacement. Only this way you can be sure all the oil is completely out.
Love it
Mate I do a lot of work around audi cars which is still vw and we do all the service with sucking oil out. In the future you won't have any other option just suck it out. Pro tip : when you get out all the oil just fill it with a bit of a fresh oil and suck it up again until you start sucking out clean oil.
Does anyone roll the ( O ) ring anymore to take twists out of the ring with an awl or small screwdriver .
I would not have it any other way
This is one excellent video and answered all my questions about changing oil using oil extractor. I called a local service shop recently and they have quoted me $240 for changing oil in my diesel Mercedes ML 320 CDI (2008). I looked up online prices and even with buying all the tools plus synthetic oil and OEM filter everything came under $90. I thought that it is well worth 30 minutes of my time to change the oil myself plus to gain a new handy skill! Thanks for the video, man! Diesel rules, EV sucks )))
When i change oil, i actually put a bit of fresh oil in the engine without the drain plug so the clean oil flushes out any leftovers. No i do not have OCD...
I do this too
I just fill in 6liters of gas in the oil pan and drive around for a few minutes and let the gasoline wash out all the old oil
@@lorenzhartl8466 really? I wonder if u can hurt the engine? Obviously not running to long
@@lorenzhartl8466 that’s a joke, right?
@@AlbertoGonzalez.. DUH
There's a lot more than 100ml left in the car still anyway, so it's fine. 100ml is 1.6% of the total oil fill. Negligible amount. Sheesh, how do you ocd types change your transmission fluid? ;p
😂
Drain and fill three or four times knowing I will never be able to truly replace the ATF without popping cooler lines and using a set of two buckets. (Or an exchange machine)
Once
The really OCD people just get a new car.
@@mediocreman2 You're onto something there! The mentality that it will never be the same is a powerful one. (I let my near mint G35 sit under a cover 2 years after striking a deer because it would never be the same without spending stupid money. Totalled, but title clean. I missed the car, the color, and the sound, so I finally put it back together this October. Definitely not the same even with factory Nissan parts and color. Maybe 87% the same max.
I own a golf r 2019. I live in south Florida. It gets hot af down here. In the cooler months,(dec-feb) which is not consistent and becoming more non-existent. I've gotten this from more than one VW mechanic and even a former VW tech to run 5W-40 in my car. However, sticker on my car says to run 0W-30. 😂 I called VW service today where I bought the car and they're telling me they use 0W-20 🤦🏻. Yes Charles, this is quite confusing indeed 😅
Did exact same experiment when I bought my extractor. Had way less than half cup. 100% confident on extracting plus the suction is audible - it just takes longer!
When using an extractor, put some clean oil at the end (like 100ml) then extract some more. When the oil becomes clear, that’s when you know you cleared the drain pan of old oil.
Update: for the anal complainers, we understand it’s not going to be perfect. But if you change the oil regularly from the get go and always use synthetic this works. It’s not meant for those with high mileage and with a lot of sludge on the bottom. You’d have to do engine flush and drain the traditional way of course before you do something like this.
Can you put cheap oil in it? i am using royal purple or amsoil
Ooh good tip
Great idea 💡
I mean… the oil left behind is less than 2%. I feel completely confortable leaving it behind.
@@gtaitbiz7787 not a good idea because mixing oils from different companies can gum up small holes.
The pump is fine with cars with top access filters . For cars where you have to get underneath to remove the filters you might as well remove the drain plug while your down there.
The fact that I have to buy the extractor, store it and take space in my garage, clean it after each use and leave 100ml of dirty oil in the engine makes it not worth it. Great video!
On these, not so much. But some vehicles like Land Rovers, and Jags? I'm pulling out the extractor. F those shield covers, and those damn drain plugs which seem to always leak unless you replace the entire plug.
It's worth if for ppl who change the oil regularly if they can easily access the oil filter without having to go under the car
Unless you're doing a flush, you're going to have dirty fluid lingering. And 100ml out of 5l or so is so minute it won't do a thing. Same exact idea with transmissions and those tend to have more old fluid in the torque converter... yet can keep going if you take care of it.
You don't need to clean the extractor and it probably takes less space than your drain pan.
Grow up
I'm so glad to have come across this video. The first time I saw that drain plug on my C7.5 A6 it confused the hell out of me. Ended up paying for that oil change. I can change my own oil again. You're a lifesaver. Thank you.
I say its fine if you commit to do your oil change regulary. Keeping maintenance 100% of your vehicle will make that car last forever. Still is not bad to take the left amount off as well. I had a ford taurus 2001 with over 230,000 miles on and never had issues with it. No leaks or problems with the engine ever. I recently sold it and the person who bought it loved it
Ice cold air, heater like a dragons breath lol. Now i have a kia soul 2011 and i love it! Easy to maintain, small yes but it is a fun daily driver. Only problem is that to change the oil you need a low pan to catch the oil cause this car is very low to ground so thats why i purchase one of this oil extractor to make things a little easier! Awesome video by the way
That got a lot more than I expected. I might start using the vacuum extractor I have for the lawnmower and snowblower on the cars. At a minimum, I could do a painless winter oil change this way.
I use an extractor whenever possible. Getting worked up over 1/2 cup of oil is silly. Even when draining from the oil pan, there is still oil all over the inside of the engine, in the turbocharger and its feed/return lines etc.
@NickoLps If you are that anal about maintenance you are likely changing fluid much earlier than the factory recommended interval anyways. You are splitting hairs here. I've got a 634k mile 2012 Jetta sport wagon at the shop that has been maintained in this manner since new and still runs perfectly. . I'll agree to disagree.
@@mineaim7066 Kinda hard to argue with your results. I have a 2015 Jetta TDI 6spd manual and hope to get at least 300k on it.
Synthetic oil suspends deposits, not real sludge unlike mineral oil.
Thank you for creating this video, and giving us your experience and information. It is appreciated. 👍
When I initially heard about using an extractor to change oil instead of drain plug, I too was suspicious about how well an extractor will remove the used oil. After seeing more information, and applying what I already know about engine oil systems, I concluded that an extractor is a perfectly acceptable method by which to do regular oil changes.
Yes, there is that question about the, "sludge", at the bottom of the pan, just like you show in your video.
However, the thing is, that is not sludge that is any different than the used oil that was just extracted. The oiling system does not pick up oil at some higher level from the bottom of the oil pan. Thus, all of the engine oil is being used and circulated over and over again. Even if the oil pick up is just slightly above the oil pan floor, during engine operation, still, all of the oil will be mixed and thus used. As oil pick up happens, the oil goes through the filter and circulates throughout the engines oil paths/channels. When that oil returns to the pan it mixes with ALL of the oil, yes, including that oil that some seem to think sits at the bottom of the oil pan and never moves. All the oil moves.
Also, there is a reason for an oil filter. Its job is to remove any larger particles that may be in the oil. Modern oils use additives that separate particles so that they do not clump, and stick in the oil paths and channels. The additives are not perfect, but are much better than oil from decades ago. Point being, if that little bit of oil, that comes out only from the drain plug removal, is sludgy, then all of your oil is sludgy. And hey, that's why we change engine oil at certain intervals of mileage, type of use, and time. The engine engineers test these things, and they know how well and how long certain types, formulations, of oil will last in that particular engine. Also, oil chemists continually work on additives and oil formulations to keep improving needed and beneficial oil properties, for the various types of engines that are out there in use.
I have an air operated extractor and we got literally few drops out of the plug after extracting on a 2016 GTI. I’m very comfortable using an extractor.
Thanks for doing this video! I bought one from Amazon and tried the same test you did, but on my 2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. When I checked to see how much oil was left, it was only a few leftover drops! I love it!! Thanks again!
Hi there that's great to hear which brand did you buy from Amazon thanks
I myself am a perfectionist, and I abhor any remaining old oil in the system. If there was a way to completely purge the system of old oil, I would. And TBH, it only takes another 5 minutes total to put the damn thing up on ramps and draining as completely as possible. The advantage is I don’t have to spend $50 on a device that isn’t even more effective at getting all the used oil out and takes up space in my garage. So there’s my two cents. I’m raising it like I’ve done for numerous years now. Also, my vehicle’s drain plug is situated to the rear of the pan, so that added few degrees nose up while on the ramps actually causes every last drop of oil possible to end up in the collector. Still, this video informs my decision on this matter and I thank you for taking the time to make it.
There is always oil trapped in the system. What you collected after the pumping extraction is mainly the dripping oil collected in the pan afterwards. I wouldn't worry much about it! I would probably alternate between these two.
Ye a mix of both is probably the happy medium, or in my case whenever I can get access to a welder to tac bolts onto the rear bolts of the belly pan because the ones on it are completely fucked
@@user-lv8dn8gw9z I'm in the same position. My rear bolt is completely stripped and rusted.
I got every last drop out of my E46. Our Mercedes GLE, not so much. Plus I had to extend the tube on the Amazon extractor.
And yes, I love my German cars with the oil filters up top.
BTW, I almost can't stand watching these because I am so jealous of the yellow Golf R...
:) Sorry not sorry? LOL
Gary Crispin
Agree about the Yellow R Gary. I have a Lapiz Blue R that looks great in the sun but pretty ordinary on an overcast day. Color choice in Australia is limited to red, black, white, blue silver and grey. Would have snapped up the yellow if it was available.
I just bought an extractor to change the oil in my generator, slow blower and lawnmower. I sucked the oil out of all three in about 15 minutes total! Considering that I would likely have NEVER gone to the trouble of draining them traditionally, whatever oil might be left at the very bottom is so much better than leaving the old oil in there, or not changing it at all because it's a hassle.
I just think if you stay on top of maintenance and do it at regular intervals, you are perfectly fine. I do 5 k service on all my cars no matter what, all my cars have lasted well above 200k and all of them still going strong, take care of your cars and they will take care of you.
@@ThunderGoatz yeah, even my BMW has 202k miles on it runs like a clock and with the right maintenance is really cheap to run. Just change often and consistently.
Absolutely. I sell my customers on this all the time.
5-7k intervals max
No crap domestic "synthetic" oil
5w-40 on turbo engines
5w-30 on n/a engines
Special cases like BMW N62, N63, Prince, use plasticizer additive to condition valve stem seals.
You will be good for a long time. I myself have a CCTA powered Dub. It has got 70k, still have not even had to replace the front cover gaskets, seals, etc. Does not leak a drop. Uses half a court every 7k miles.
@@LynxStarAuto yeah I have a e39 530i and so far small power steering leaks but no oil leaks and only castrol 5w30 for the m54 and planning to boost it soon.
raomar Not a fan of the Castrol, but if you are changing it frequently, it may negate their not exactly synthetic oil claims. We have a lot of nerve calling most of the garbage oil we sell Stateside synthetic. Regulations here are lax, and oil companies are allowed to stretch definitions when marketing.
I only use European based oils. My personal favorite is Liqui Moly. Tho I will use Pentosin and Fuchs as well. European standards are much stricter than in The U.S. The above mentioned are true Group IV synthetics, which is 100% synthetic oil. Anything under is just a blend I.E. Mobil 1, Castrol Edge, etc.
@@LynxStarAuto huh, I see. Would amsoil be considered a good oil? I have been thinking about switching to it or royal purple, but either way I just change a 3-5k miles and dont beat on my engine too much. So far it has worked like a charm and motor is still running strong.
The 100 ml might be insignificant amount compared to the total amount of oil, but that last 100 ml may contain the heaviest and most damaging contamination since it sits right at the bottom of the oil pan. Would be worth analysing the oil extracted through the top versus that last 100 ml through the drain plug.
agree, pulling the plug, you get all the sediment on the bottom of the oil pan, sucking from top gets everything but
The oil extractor seems the way to go... My local dealer wants £105 to do an oil change. My oil extractor cost £27.., and to replace the oil and filter was £55.., so a winner from day one. I would also add that I will be far more likely to do my own oil change now, as it is so straightforward.. That has to be a good thing for the life of the engine.. 👍
I always measure the dipstick against the tube, pinch with a finger and then I know I need to be at least that deep down the tube.
Good hint
Be careful with that method...I recently watched a video about a ford tsb where the remedy is to install a shorter dipstick, and add more oil, to hide an oil consumption issue.
There is probably another 1/2 litre up in the block/pump/turbo lines, if your worried about that last bit dump in a clean fresh litre and start the car for 5 seconds and drain it again to flush a bit more out but its not going to matter one bit, the filter does its job, 99% of the oil is new, the old oil like any modern oil would probably last another 5k-10k as is anyhow, a week later the new oil will look dirty once again.
When i used to rebuild the gen2 ea888 2.0tfsi engines (the predecessor), they took 4.6 litres on a service, but 5.2 litres after teardown and replacement of the pistons. So yeah 0.5 litre easily left behind everytime.
The less old oil i have the better. I always change it when oil is hot to get more out and jack the car high up and let it drain for about 30min.
@@boostedveedub9687 Does the extra 6ft of gravitational force increase the flow rate of the oil out of the car?
James Butler 6ft? I’m on jack stands so probably 6” lol i just do it to make it easier for all the oil to evacuate depending on oil pan design, plug placement etc.
Not really good to run the engine for 5 seconds on a total of 1.5L of oil though
Just wanted to share my experience, I have Lidl electric oil extraction pump, it's about 10€/$, and I did a little test on my Ford Mondeo Mk4 with 2.5T engine, my plan was to extract as much as possible with a pump and to see how much will go out from the oil drain, everything as you did here.
Oil filter on this engine is top mounted cartridge also, so it's easy and clean to remove it, and all the oil goes down to the oil pan when oil cap is unscrewed, because it's pressurised and full otherwise.
I measured oil dipstick length and put thin sucking tube which goes even further than a dipstick, I felt little resistance when the tube curved on the bottom and there was definite stop when the tube touched bottom oil pan wall.
My advice is to put can for the old oil as low as possible, basically on the ground and not on the engine, I have inspection pit so I can put it even lower, gravity is a friend in this case. Also engine was warm of course, so as the oil naturally, about 1.5h after engine was on operating temperature and ignition was turned off, so the oil can drain to the bottom as much as possible but also to remain thin and easy for the pump to extract.
I let the pump to pull out to the point when on the other side of the tube was just drops of oil.
When I removed oil drain plug, prepared to catch some amount, and eager to find out how much will it be, I was surprised that there wasn't even one drop of oil.
For my car with this engine it works perfectly, you must find out for your car, can it pull out all or almost all, and does it make sense to extract oil using this method.
I think you could tolerate up to 0.3L of old oil remained in the pan ONLY if you have no other option to change the oil correctly.
In any case I will continue to change the oil from the pit, because i find it satisfying to do it myself.
My OCD couldn't leave that oil in the sump.
That's not your OCD my friend, just your common sense!
There is always oil you can’t change. Don’t let your ocd get to you. That little bit is nothing.
I’m with you on that my friend. If it’s got a drain plug use it 💪
It's the dirtiest 100ml of oil. I go as far as pouring half a quart of fresh oil and let it drain out. My engine has 250k and doesn't burn a drop of oil.
@@Motorsportsgeek mine too and i always used an extractor . changed it every 5k tho
I use this for all my oil changes. It's best to hold the dipstick next to the tube before inserting, and mark it with your fingers. Then you know how far down to insert.
That’s a great idea. Make an inch or so above the stick so you get all the way down
the dipstick doesnt go all the way down tho
Yep that’s why I made the comment I made. :)
@@HumbleMechanic I replied without reading your comment lol
I own a 2005 Mercedes-Benz C230. Oil drain plug is covered by lots of plastic covers. What a pain. This is a big game changer. Plus I can use it on my Seadoos. Win win.
Thanks for that video and the information of the oil remaining. Interesting to see the M8 R still comes with the plastic oil pan. I assume it's the same as on the Mk7 and the quantity of the remaining oil is also the same. Since I do own a Mk7 and have access to a lift and I don't even own an extractor I obviously prefer draining the oil via the drain plug. I also have a magnetic plug and I want to inspect it on each oil change. That said, while I prefer to not leave 100 ml of more oil in my engine there's still a huge quantity remaining in there. The factory fill is 6.6 liters, while you change just 5.7 liters. So 900 ml is remaining in the engine anyway, or 1 full liter if you decide to use an extractor. Lastly this engine has a really generous oil sump and I think that's a good thing.
I'm too cheap to buy an extractor, and drain plug method means I can use the time to clean out filter housing, change air filter, check other fluids, etc. while it's draining. Great video as always! Edit - good call on the slightly overfilled to start with - after the extraction was complete that was as near as damn it 6 litres you pulled, especially with the extra 100ml through the drain. Kudos.
Exactly, use the time that its talking to pump out the oil th R&R your filter and check fluids.
My garage changed the oil using one of these extractors on our old Smax 2l diesel every 13k miles, we sold it at 212000 miles, checked the UK MOT website, it's now covered 228000 miles, so I don't think it matters really, just so long as fresh oil is put in frequently
Oil extraction is the way to go! I started doing it a number of years ago. The time and effort I save not messing with jack stands and stuff is *_huge_* especially with multiple cars in the family. And, if one is doing frequent oil changes, filter replacement can be skipped for three or four cycles with no issues. Every other year or so all the cars are up on jack stands for other maintenance and that's when I do oil pan bolt drains and filter changes.
My 1993 Chevy C1500 has anti-slosh baffles in the pan which caused all kinds of problems for the dip tube to get to the bottom of the oil pan. Or, the dip tube would get hung up. Oil extraction is such an effort-saver I took the time to remove the truck's oil pan and modified the baffles with slight cutting and the welding of channel metal to guaranty no hang-ups and full bottoming of the dip tube.
If you're a serious logic-based DIY'er rather than a religious ritual mechanical monk, switch over to vacuum extraction and use the resulting time and effort saved to get in a few more rounds of golf in with the precious extra weekend time.
I used a oil extractor in my MK IV Golf TDI for years. So much easier.
It does seem a lot easier to just use the extractor instead of having to remove that plastic under tray and drain it out. But this guy has a lift in his garage so why not lol
Why is the quote for an oil change at a local shop so expensive....
Also keeps from stripping the threads in the aluminum oil pan with the steel drain plug!
@@timyt13 Because They are billing you for a total hour of work. Most shops are over $100 an hour for labor cost. Then you add in the price of oil, filter and plug. Audi chargers $169 for just an oil change.
@@timyt13 To pay dieselgate 😉
Absolutely use extractor. My used Jetta V Tsi came with a double oversized oil plug. Leaving it in is best option if it’s not leaking
Good video. This was the only video I've seen that measured if all oil was extracted and then double-checked via the drain plug. As far as getting that last dirty oil out, you could always add 1/2 qt of any fresh oil you have and then extracting again. At the very least, this will dilute the dirty oil or sediment at the bottom of the pan and leave less dirty oil behind (for the anal retentive).
I agree with this
I remember seeing Paul @ ShopDAP do a similar video (I think in a GTI), with similar results.
Great idea
Recently I did my first topside oil change using an electric pump and I found it necessary to move the extraction tube up/down in search of the last of the oil. There are too many variables to believe that every drop drains out the bottom no matter how long you leave the plug out.
Yee. Mine takes 2.9 I managed to get 2l extracted after 10/15 min. It starts fine but then I spend most of the time trying to get more to be sucked out
I have never herd of an oil extractor till now. My mind is blown
So much plastic parts in this engine, as if it is 3D printed :)
It's very wise to make the first oil change as short as reasonably possible (engine break-in). But for later oil changes nothing wrong to change the oil around 6K - 8K mi and do it completely thru the drain plug. Just because the oil is dark in color, it doesn't mean it's bad because turbo engines tend to make the color change really quickly. Nevertheless it's a good habit to inspect the oil level every 3K mi & top-up if necessary.
*I haven't been under my car for an oil change ever... 2012 Passat TDI. Best investment I've ever made. It makes life so much easier.*
TOTALLY !
That is until you have to pay $1000 for an intake cleaning... But you will most likely sell the car and that will be someone else's problem. 😉
@@Uberragen21 Nope... seeing as how I have a TDI none of those intake problems and my last TDI had 264k on it when I have it to my brother. Not parting with my current one at 134k any time soon.
Got to be honest, watching this video due to problems with oil drain plug leaking on my VW. If you have someone that installs a 3rd party plug you will get persistent leaks with a VW. Hoping the new VW one will solve that, if it does and this extractor method works I may just buy one and start doing my own oil changes using this method. Its better for avoiding spills too by the looks of it.
Totally agree on the 5k oil interval. Nicely done sir! Also I don’t use the extractor simply because it takes much too long.
It took 5 mins to remove 6qts from my gti
Do I mind the 100ml of oil, in my car that I do maintenance so I know everything is well maintain, yes! I also think having a 100´ish extractor that I need to clean is not worth the fuss at all!! 25$ ramps, inspect under the car, drain ALL the oil and be happy! Also the plug is so easy to get off!
The plugs are fragile and are know to leak if u aren't careful but fair point
Yes I replace it every time for 5$
In my opinion I can understand using the extractor for in between service oil changes, especially with cars having 10k+ service increments. My saab has a 15k oil life that I decide to change every 5k instead. I think for the actual service bulletin you should still get under the car for just to check everything out and make sure your car isn't developing any problems.
Me too ua-cam.com/video/bnHmVTX0tkE/v-deo.html
@@sgtLatte Another Saab fan here ua-cam.com/video/bnHmVTX0tkE/v-deo.html
I knew a guy that used an air extractor when I used to PM forklifts. It seemed handy and saved time, but I was always a bit iffy about them. The plug on the bottom of the pan is designed to drain everything out and I was worried an extractor wouldn’t get that. I will say, after reading the comments, it may have been overthinking on my part. Seems lots of you have no problem with them.
I purchased the extractor today and will pull the drain plug every 10k. I also only allow 5k per oil change
I can't say I'd be comfortable leaving that behind. I generally leave the pan under the car for an hour or more, go do something else. Does it matter? Probably not.
I will say, however, that I seriously distrust extractors of any form. I once had a Jiffy-Lube "service" a transmission with an extractor. In less than three months the trans bit the dust. Coincidence? Maybe. And maybe I'm just a dinosaur who thinks the old ways are just fine. But I'll take a drain plug any day of the week.
When it comes to things like this I am cool with what makes you comfortable. I am doing double maintenance on the car which is silly to some people.. I don't care one bit. I am going to do it anyway. Very cheap insurance.
I think the extractor thing is more a Jiffy change issue, than the extractor issue. But I can see why you feel how you do
I did want to mention that on automatic transmissions, if the fluid is not changed regularly, it can start to carry a lot of clutch material. If you then service it and add new fluid, the clutches can begin to slip. This is because the old transmission fluid was effectively acting as a "glue" and was keeping the clutches working. This could have been the cause of failure on your transmission, but it could have as easily been from the jiffy lube location.
Definitely check out ChrisFix's video on automatic transmission fluid for a better explanation than I can give!
Etmanning Old wives tale friend. I've done fluid changes on plenty of units with over 150k. Never had an issue.
Lynx Star Automotive I’ve always figured people wait until their trans does something funky to do the flush, and that’s why they say it causes it. It was probably on its way out, and they were hoping to save it haha
HumbleMechanic Exactly. Oils, filters and other fluids are dirt cheap. They cost practically nothing. Cheapest and best insurance for your car. Would be foolish to ”save” on those.
Assuming you took out 5.5 L with the extractor (thats what it looked like to me), then 100 mL left behind is a mere 1.8% of your total oil. Pretty insignificant. Depending on your engine you might take out more or less. Extractors tend to work well in many German cars though. Great clean work and attention to detail, loved the video + production!
Thank you!
So next time use the old O ring that has been cut after removal, loop it thru the new O ring pinch the tails of the old O ring now feed the new O ring on the the cap, pull the old O ring (while it is looped thru the new one) rotate around the cap to help feed the new into its groove, helps to seat the new O ring, no cuts, nicks and NO twists. good for all rings.
Nice, I'll have to note that down for my next change.
Using the extractor it's whole life then someone uses the plastic drain plug and snap it breaks off since it's been in place for years lol
It's just plastic doesn't seem that difficult to get off if it breaks especially since it's not torqued down or anything
Plastic drain plug looks like an accident in waiting..
audimate ‘
Plastic gardens and becomes brittle with age and is best when changed periodically.
You’re over thinking it, please don’t get any new car lol. And btw an older car is going to have way worse problems than an easy pan swap. Pan swap takes 20 minutes no joke..I see people adding coilovers, paint, and horsepower to old cars but they never changed the balljoints, subframe bushings, or tie rods lmfao. That’s like going to the gym to do squats after knee surgery, it’s f**ckin stupid lol.
I've been using this method for most of my cars that has a dip stick for 15years with no issues.
Add a "chaser" quart of new oil after initial extraction to dilute and remove the remaining oil.
That's a waste of fresh oil and money lmao.
So if you change your oil 4 times a year, you're throwing away a gallon of oil per car per year?
Stuart, in modern engines 10-20% of used oil remains trapped in the engine. I have oil analysis showing retention of 20% wear metals, contaminents and oxidized oil and degradation of the new oil within 20 minutes of running the engine. Perform a second oil change with cheap oil and you will see how contaminated it is. A second change will give you 99% clean engine oil, just like when it rolled off the line at the factory.
Personally I'm sticking my Fumoto drain valve. Prior to getting the Fumoto I did try the extractor method, and it is neat if you have the filter uptop, but ultimately it just transfered the headache of dealing with a jack to dealing with dirty oily hoses after. I mean yes it was still cleaner than dealing with a regular drain plug, but with a Fumoto you can drain it entrely without spilling a single drop.
How did you handle the oily hoses situation after? Thanks for the heads up. I was considering it until I read your comment
@@mr.gk5 By getting rid of it and getting a Fumoto valve 😂
Just lots of paper towels on hand, but even after like 15 min of wiping off oil it was still all oily feeling on the outside and covered on the inside. No idea how you'd deal with getting the inside to the point of not dripping out over time, I had the end of the hose as the highest pont when storing it.
Great. I've never heard of them before. I would have gone for it except my 2011 VW Golf is really low and I don't want to take a chance. If I had a more normal car, I would have gone for it.
@@leezap They have many different models to fit most any vehicle like low profile ones and right angle models. I have the straight one with standard long nipple and it doesn't stick below the pan or under tray. If you're really worried you can get a skid plate, actually pretty common to see these valves being installed when adding skid plates since the plates can be a pain to unbolt for oil changes
@@Oleg-oe1rc Thanks. I didn't know there is such an animal. It's a great invention. There are different brands too that I will look into it.
Thks for the review and great work on the video. No need to over thinking over a small portion of 100ml oil left. 😅✌🏼 Nothing is perfect is this world. I've change oil around every 3000km to 4000km for my car over 20 years old by the drain nut method. My car's engine also ended up need an overhaul at 350,000km. Hahaha. 🤭✌🏼 Nothing last forever. ✌🏼
I am all for using an extractor that little bit leftover is no harm especially of you change the oil at a 5k interval
The perfectionist in me demands a full flush of oil, but the realist says that a small amount of old oil mixed in with new won't have a massive difference. Besides, if VW engineers deem oil extractor to be enough and recommend it, then it must be good enough.
Thanks for the video!
It's a matter of the whole solution. 100ml of "old" oil in 5600ml of new oil will probably not make any noticeable difference.
The engineers would of been swayed in the direction of the extraction method to cut time during oil changes if they were 100% going to stand behind the extraction method of oil changes then VW would be able to save countless hundreds of thousands oemautohaus@aol.com plug totally from the manufacturing process
The engineers would of been swayed in the direction of the extraction method to cut time during oil changes if they were 100% going to stand behind the extraction method of oil changes then VW would be able to save countless hundreds of thousands oemautohaus@aol.com plug totally from the manufacturing process
Vw engineers were also the ones that cheated their emissions... also that’s why some manufacturers put magnets on their drain plugs because all the metal fragments sit at the bottom of the pan.
@@Timski2543 I don't think we should put all VW engineers under the plow of dieselgate. Sometimes you've got to do what your team demands of you. Plus these were software engineers primarily involved and not mechanical engineers.
And magnets on drain plugs? That sounds like the manufacturer compensating for low quality alloys or problems with manufacturing process that can potentially lead to large metal objects ending up in the system. The solution is clever though.
I prefer the oil extractor method for its convenience and do more frequent oil changes. On the car (Audi A6 3L) I tested there was only ~60ml of residual oil left anyway. Every year I also do one complete sump plug drain to check for any bits of metal or sludge.
I need a legit oil funnel like that. I've been eyeballing the first quart, then hacking the bottom off the bottle for years. Never remember to buy a funnel until it's too late...
Just cut the bottom off a 2L pop bottle.
Jason Korman Which soda do these engins prefer? Wouldn't want to give it Diabeetus.
Just keep that bottle half for future use if it works.
john fitzgerald I use the two liter bottle trick, but I use a new one every time. Oily funnels setting around the garage get really dirty.
On some applications i would definitely use the extractor however on my car it sits a little high off the ground so i don't even need to jack it up to change the oil and remove the filter. But that extractor would definitely save you time and work if your car is low to the ground!
One thing I do is when using an extractor is if the dipstick is on the front of the engine I jack the rear slightly so oil runs towards the dipStick and vice a versa if the dipstick is at the rear I'll jack the front slightly .
• You can get a pretty good estimate of how much tubing to insert into the dipstick tube, by referencing the dipstick itself; the tubing has to at least go past the lower oil mark.
• Also, some cars' dipstick tube is actually a pretty good substitute for the tubing. In such cases, using an appropriate rubber bung to connect the dipstick tube to the vacuum oil extractor gets as much oil out as fiddling with the tubing.
• 100mL out of 6,000mL is 1.6%. The dilution factor with new oil will make the leftover oil inconsequential.
There's 1 quart between max and min , so you need to go 5 times that length lower (approx 5 inches)
Great video! However i never trust an extractor to extract the oil from my engines. Gravity and negative pressure did the best suction downsouth.
When doing an oil change in my garage I drain the oil out via the sump plug then using a special fitting on my extractor I extract any remaining oil below the sump plug hole via the sump drainage hole.... then pour through half a litre of clean oil before reffiting the new plug.
Perfect for do-it-yourself oil changes during the winter months 🍻
Thanks for posting this video! I have an IS350 that needs an oil change every month and no space to get it up in the air to save 80 dollars to do it myself. This thing will fix that. I don't mind leaving some in the pan. This video will save me a lot of hassle!
Wouldn’t it be better to leave the oil filter off while extracting the oil? Having air flow would help the extractor not only extract faster but also let more oil be extracted I’m guessing.
The crank case breather lets in air by the intake so no that is never a problem on any cars 🙂
Depends whose car it is, if it's mine I use the drain plug. If it's someone else's, fluid extractor all the way!
I just wish they wouldn't have put the filter underneath on the MK6 R, my previous GTi had it on top & was so easy & never dropped any oil in the removal process. I always wondered how well the extractors worked. I'll stick with my Race Ramps, I have to be under for the filter anyway & it's nice to check on things under there. I like the drain plug on your series, as well, nice to not have to worry about torque setting. Thanks as usual.
I prefer to use an extractor so the only time I ever lay on my back is in bed 👀
Steve Wilson I also have a bad back.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
i would rather lay down on my back, then bend over a engine bay, hunching over is what will cause back pain
What about the oil filter? Is that on top of your engine?
@@stevensevek6151 yes it is
I have two of the best methods to do either method.
I have a Stahlbus valve for quick and effortless and clean draining.
And I have an extractor to do it that way.
If you want to get the rest of 100ml out using the vacuum extractor, you could just let it sit 10-15 minutes after extraction so all the oil drains in the pan off the engine walls and other parts, and just extracting oil a second tim after that. At the end you will get every drop out as if you released the drain bolt.
I know it's not recommended, but i use a oil extractor when the engine is hot. The engine takes 4l on initial fill and 3.8 on oil change. After extracting the oil I put 4 liters in the engine and the the dipstick shows oil in de middle.
Before getting an oil extractor I drained the oil via the drain bolt. I have a habit of letting the oil drain for a minimum of 10 minutes so that I shure I got everything out. But in reality I was the engine would take only 3.75-3.8 liters and the dipstick would show just in the middle. In my case using an oil extractor is the best way to go.
When I had my stroker engine installed in my 98 mustang years back I broke it in right. I used royal purple faithfully. Every 4k miles I drained the oil, then installed a cheap filter, and oil. Idled it for 20 minutes then drained. After that I added the 7 quarts of royal purple, and a motorcraft filter. Over done, but when you pay 14k for a total front engine install it's worth it. 21k on the engine when I sold it, and boroscoped it. Was barely any carbon build up
That's a lot of work but I'd do the same if I had a car that fancy.
William you are wise to do this on such an investment. Same for new cars that run $20-30K. I wish it was only 100ml, but in modern engines 10-20% (500-1200ml) of used oil remains trapped in the engine. I have oil analysis showing retention of 20% wear metals, contaminents and oxidized oil and degradation of the new oil within 20 minutes of running the engine. Perform a second oil change with cheap oil and you will see how contaminated it is. I believe you have discovered that. A second change will give you 99% clean engine oil, just like when it rolled off the line at the factory.
I like to drain it from the drain plug. While it is draining you need to look at other things on the the car anyway. You may have a few grease places to grease anyway. I always paint my exhaust system with rust- oleum. Makes the exhaust system last a lot longer. Plus you will find a lot of other things to paint to keep them from rusting if you have the time to do it.
I drain using the drain plug then I made a 1/4" Cu tubing attachment with a curvature that I adapted to the extractor tubing and I suck out all fluid I can reach inside the bottom of the pan. It's a little unnerving the first time because you don't want to find that the tubing gets stuck somehow as you move it around inside the pan. I also measure the oil going in as the oil suppliers are not that accurate in the amount of oil they measure out inside their containers and with the method described above I get the most oil out possible and replace with the exact amount of oil every time. It's not as big a hassle as it sounds and good peace of mind that the most important maintenance is done the best you can do.
My favorite part of the video was how quickly he placed the old O-ring "over there". lol
Extractor all the way for me.....even on my '59 Cadillac. :-)
No overtightened sump plugs, no mess.
My Land Rover discovery D4 has a dedicated tube in the engine that goes right down to the bottom of the sump LOWER than the drain plug so you can remove more oil using the suction method , but my main dealer still uses the sump plug removal method.When my free service plan runs out and I start to do my own oil changes I will be using the suction method.
I actually cringed when you said something about a power tool on the filter housing.
I use a midlength 3/8" ratchet on filters and plugs, if it takes more than that to get it off, someonw before me went wrong. If it takes any more than that to put them back on....well, it doesnt.
LOL It started as a joke, goodness I hope people don't really do that
I use a 1/2" on the filters, 19mm wrench to remove the drain plug, and a 3/8" torque wrench to tighten the drain plug.
But I've seen people use power tools to remove the drain plug...
I had an older car that had the oil drain plug cross threaded by some genius; probably from one of those quickie lube shops. Some people are not the sharpest knife in the drawer.
@@HumbleMechanic oh, some people really do. I have had to use a breaker bar to remove an oil drain plug. And on a GM motor with the cartridge filter I had to use a breaker bar....on a plastic housing. Luckily it didn't break, but yeah, some people overtighten the wrong things.
@@Uberragen21 i know a guy who couldn't get his sump drain plug loose, so he removed the oil filter and started the car to pump the oil out...
"measure cuppy thingy"
Love the technical name.
Yeah it's called that in the service manual HA
@@HumbleMechanic Just better hope your wife doesn't know what you are using her measuring cups for.
Hes probably used to the taste of used engine oil in his pancakes by now.
@@CarsandCoding Are you kidding, he uses it instead of syrup.
@@HumbleMechanic That measure cuppy thing also has a thing on it called a handle. Try using that to hold the measure cuppy thing.
2006 Tundra has the oil filter above the steel skid plate so unless you want a mess skid has to drop so drain bolt/new db gasket every 5-7K.
Did a LiquiMoly Engine Flush/Drain/Fill about 1K ago so am servicing with new oil/filter tomorrow, as will be on ramps for ATF WS double Drain/Fill, drove shaft zirc greasing, new transfer/dif gear fluids and new 02 Sensors before installing my Skid Row Cat Con Guards and do NOT want to remove again until next Trans Refresh in 20-25K.
At least!
Extraction seems great for these German Top Filter Autos though.
Nice video HM.
And yes, I let it Drain at least 10 minutes but don't rebuild my block.
;-)
There’s nothing wrong with the 100ml of oil that would be left in the pan. A slightly un level floor would do the same or worse.
lowered expectations
What do you mean? That’s a perfectly reasonable expectation.
@@TheNickkirk I mean I guess if you ladies don't want to get your nails dirty, its perfectly fine to leave old oil in the engine after every oil change. lol
My point was that there is always left over oil in the engine. Always. Drain the oil and drop the pan if you want to get most of it out(there will still be oil dripping out of the engine for days with the pan off) it’s just life depending on pan design and plug location it may even get more out with the suction system. That’s why my comment specifically said draining oil with the vehicle in level will leave that much or more. The shop I work on has fairly level floors and I’ve pulled oil pans that had 1/2 quart or more in the bottom.
@@TheNickkirk There is still even more oil inside the oil pump, oil galleries, VVT, cylinder head, hollow cams shafts, solenoids, turbos, coolers, etc. 10-20% of oil capacity will remain in a modern engine. I have oil analysis showing this and confirmation from labs.
Great video, when I buy my next car that will likely have the oil filter on top of the engine I will definitely buy an extractor and do most oil changes this way. But when it comes time to jack up the car and rotate tires/inspect things/brakes etc. I will give the car a full drain from the plug. IMO that is probably the best way to do it. For just oil changes, extractor. \When doing other services that require you to be under the car, drain plug.