Joao... did, or do you ever use electric devices to reprofile or restore knives? With belt sanders. Maybe a Work Sharp.Did you ever used one of those electric tools. Or do you do handwork on diamond stones etc.
@@Ve-suvius 99% of the time it’s only hand work. But I have used a small belt sander(those small ones used in carpentry, attached to a table) todo heavy re-profiling, but it’s hard work to get result and not to burn the steel. Also have used a dremmel with diamond tipsfor smaller details like the sharpening choil
@@Oldmora I read about someone on bladeforums saying he used a black&decker powerfile in the past. But it was good mostly to get convex edges on the blades not so good for taking off metal to make an edge in the first place. I think he was a knifemaker. I did have a Makita 9032, but found it not impressive when trying to put a new tip on a Cold Steel Bowie machete. It was cumbersome to file the metal off with that. 500W , 1700m/min. max. I think that doing it by hand with a diamond stone or file would have worked faster. Then again, on the Fiskars edges it worked very effectively, fast. The steel on those are a bit soft... But as you say you have to watch out not to burn the steel. Then again, most knifemakers use those belt sanders. Sanding by hand, takes way more time in general.
I initially had the same experience has you described but I reach the conclusion that the problem was the belts. Instead of the cheap brown belt we normally see, I found a brand locally that sells blue colored belts that work much better (at a higher cost of course) and with them I got acceptable results,
@@Oldmora Yes, are those the blue zirconium belts? Those are better suited to metal for sure. Also lower grits are also more effective at removing steel to reprofile a tip or edge.
Fine job! It is alweays a pleasure to see an old neglected Mora getting back to glory.
Thanks.
Great job ! Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks 👍🙏💪
Well done.
Nice bladeshape also.
It’s a cool classic hunting style knife.
@@Oldmora
Indeed.
Joao...
did, or do you ever use electric devices to reprofile or restore knives?
With belt sanders. Maybe a Work Sharp.Did you ever used one of those electric tools.
Or do you do handwork on diamond stones etc.
@@Ve-suvius 99% of the time it’s only hand work. But I have used a small belt sander(those small ones used in carpentry, attached to a table) todo heavy re-profiling, but it’s hard work to get result and not to burn the steel.
Also have used a dremmel with diamond tipsfor smaller details like the sharpening choil
@@Oldmora
I read about someone on bladeforums saying he used a black&decker powerfile in the past.
But it was good mostly to get convex edges on the blades not so good for taking off metal to make an edge in the first place. I think he was a knifemaker.
I did have a Makita 9032, but found it not impressive when trying to put a new tip on a Cold Steel Bowie machete. It was cumbersome to file the metal off with that. 500W , 1700m/min. max.
I think that doing it by hand with a diamond stone or file would have worked faster.
Then again, on the Fiskars edges it worked very effectively, fast. The steel on those are a bit soft...
But as you say you have to watch out not to burn the steel.
Then again, most knifemakers use those belt sanders. Sanding by hand, takes way more time in general.
I initially had the same experience has you described but I reach the conclusion that the problem was the belts. Instead of the cheap brown belt we normally see, I found a brand locally that sells blue colored belts that work much better (at a higher cost of course) and with them I got acceptable results,
@@Oldmora
Yes, are those the blue zirconium belts? Those are better suited to metal for sure.
Also lower grits are also more effective at removing steel to reprofile a tip or edge.