The 1000%%% correct way to body work a Panle start to finish for those really important jobs ! !!! Great video !!! Btw back yard is extremely beautiful
Well Brian. You were true to your word. You’d have another video before the end of the weekend. Seeing your son reminds me of my past. My kids always wanted to help their dad. That’s what makes them what they are today. Great content as always. Enjoy your family in sunny Florida.
I did! Now off to Tennessee for thanksgiving ! Thank you so much for noticing my boy, keeping him in some of the videos to build a memory for me to watch and look back on, I actually left him in by accident on a couple of edits, but it ended up being pretty funny when he asked me if my name is Brian ha ha! Glad I could provide you with someone of those memories to look back on.
You da man bro!!!! Ive learned so much from you. I always outsourced any of the paint work on any of my project builds but could paint a little just didnt know the ins and outs of the procedures and body work and so on. After watching pretty much all your stuff and being a subscriber and listening to you i can actually lay down some jobs that anyone would be proud of and actually the truck i built recently has won several best of shows this past summer at local car shows!!! Thank you for everything you do and for explaining all your methods to where us guys and gals can get it and with practice and trials and fixing errors can do these type jobs and be more than proud of the job we did!!!! I watch some of the other guys and 1 in paticular just for the entertainment as i actually call him (10 footer)...lol i bet you can guess by that comment who i am reffering to!!! But again thanks for all the effort and pride you take in your work and trust me it shows in your students work also... because our teacher is just that dang good!!!!!
Just an fyi etch primers and epoxy primers do like each other…the etch that you’re using luckily doesn’t contain that much acid…but for future reference I’d look into the TDS for those products bc almost always they never want epoxy’s to touch etching primers and vice versa…and that’s not putting you down at all I actually love your channel and think that what you do is awesome for our industry because it shows people the amount of work that really goes into it and more importantly the time that goes into it, you’re not disassembling stripping doing all the metal work then bodywork then paint work all in a 30 minute episode…so please keep the content rolling for all of us that sleep eat and breathe collision repair…thanks man
I just used some SPI Epoxy primer for the 1st time and this stuff lays nice but sands very well after 24hrs. The TDS even say its designed to sand. You can build up the coats and use it as a very mild surfacer and of course add some reducer to use it as a sealer.
How many coats of epoxy did you do? In the last episode I thought you said 1 but in another one you used 2. I’m doing my roof and need to know how many of eastwoods aerospray cans I need. How do you feel about using those by the way?
Hey Brian, I'm always hearing that you need body filler to be laid on top of bare metal or else you can have adhesion issues. I have not really done that for the last 10 cars I've painted. The last two cars I finished painting, I took the low spot down to bare metal, bogged and used a block to sand it down flat. Both of those jobs got mapping and I only noticed it after the paint job was done.... Wont 180 help with adhesion onto paint?
Hi brian! Instead of using the self etch can primer after sanding revealing some bare metal. Could i just respray expoxy primer over that spot? Thanks. I love the videos!
Great video. Question, you’re working over bare metal; what changes would you make over 50 year old paint that appears to be in good condition. It has the dings and dents you would expect. Nearly all is original except for a small area painted with base/clear (wrong color match)
Hey Brian thanks again for another great and informative video Brian did you see the little angel on the floor and walking around god bless you and your family keep you safe god willing
Thank you!! 🥹I saw him on the floor only once i started editing! Ha! I let him hang out with me when I record, its DIY style at home, and folks seems to appreciate it. Thank you for the love and happy thanksgiving
How many oz of primer did you use on those last two coats? Just curious…. Be interesting to see how much true actually materials used for this job cost.
@PaintSociety thanks for that!! I always struggle with knowing how much anything to mix. I clearcoated some headlights and wasted a bunch of clear... well actually I wanted to use it all up, made a bunch of runs 😅
Hi Beginner here Is it okay to use 360 instead of 320 or is the 360 too fine of a scratch? Also any advice for sanding after your primer is applied would be appreciated
Brian, I recently got my first paint spray gun and want to start practicing with it. Are there any inexpensive materials you could recommend for practicing, before I start spending more money on nicer paint and clear for spraying actual parts? Thanks again for all the great info.
Thanks for the video Brian. If there some reason you don’tuse etch primer on the bare metal? Looking forward ti your response. (Still learning lol) Phillip Hall
I have an 89 Chevy OBS that has great potential except the paint on the cab top is worn off. Rust is covered. I can get the best part of the rust off but the pores will no doubt have rust the sanding can’t reach. What do I do? It was for this cause I was asking about etch primer for such a scenario. 🤷🏻♂️ lol Thanks, Phillip Hall
@ go back to the first video Of this series and look at “fast etch”. Link is in the description of that video. It will remove the rust in hard areas. You can also use a product called Ospho
I’m currently working on a 1996 f150 at the farm shop, all the body work is done and filler primer is on. I haven’t bought my sealer, base or clear yet but I’m debating whether or not I want to spray a 2k clear. Do you have any advice for respirators/safety gear that would be adequate if I was to go the 2K route or is it a smarter decision to go with a 1K? Thanks
You should only spray 2k if you went a chance at a good finish. Also get yourself a 3m full face respirator. Around $150 but much better then half mask
I have to ask what's the point of the epoxy? Couldn't you just put etch and filler and go straight to primer? I'm confused what's the point of epoxy when you sanded the filler down to metal afterwards. Why does filler have to be over epoxy?
@PaintSociety I see...so if you're not doing any filler and just strip down to metal you can just etch and go straight to 2k primer? Or still use epoxy sealer?
@@kenmastersmasteryou can just etch if your not doing any body work. Epoxy is only really for when you need to add filler. You want that epoxy under the filler because the hardners of the body fillers contain water and well you don’t want water to come in contact with a bare metal surface.
@ would you say a turbine setup is better than a traditional setup using an air compressor and high dollar gun ? Looking to start at home but want the best setup without breaking the bank
@Newmoneymarc its a great option because it takes out the equation of dirty air and definitely is much more mobile, and nowadays with the more portable tools on the market that you don’t need a air compressor to run Sanders or grinders, I would say that it is a better option, but it does come with the cost
@ so would you say going with the turbine and there spray guns will lay down better then say a DV1 on an air compressor ? Or it equates to about the same quality finish
Instead of the self etching primer on those bare metal spots I would have used a auto prep etch wipe. I just think they are easier and faster. I can dry it almost instantly with some air.
They are also about $80 per container and not readily available for a do it yourself or so yeah I would have used the wipe as well in the body shop but not for do it yourself at home
@ holy! $80 a can is expensive! I don’t know the cost of most of the products I use everyday. 😂 I wonder if a diy person could buy just 1 wipe at a time? Might make it worth it. Great video! I’ve learned a lot from your channel.
Paint society video idea: I bring my project truck to Florida in 2k sanded to 320 and you help me finish it😅 this is the step of the project where I’m starting to run out of confidence.
It's just paint, if it doesn't turn out, you can always sand it and have another go. I painted a pearl paint job for my first try and it turned out great. You might surprise yourself
@ yeah that’s what I keep trying to tell myself. And I want to believe it. I’m just worried about killing probably 30-40 hours of sanding and 7-800 in product.
I do not like the idea of blocking and then using a DA over your bodywork that is already straight. A DA seems to make the filler wavy, but I guess your primer will take care of that if you’re using a primer gun. I like a 1.4/1.5 for primer to put on the least amount of material as possible, but slick and flat…”thin win” from bodywork to paint and clear, the less I put on (to a certain extent of course) the less problems I have now and later. I like using slow hardener’s/reducer’s in all the products that I can to help flow and flash nice instead of piling it on to make it flow…bodyfiller/primer/sealer/paint/clear, it all goes on smoother when you’re not piling it on. So I find finishing my filler with a block a better way, For Me, to have less blocking/sanding needed to have a nice, clean and straight substrate for my sealer, which in turn gives me a good surface for my base coat to lay nice and flat….THEN I have Great foundation for my Slow activated high solids clear to be sprayed nice and thin and flat flat flat. Love all your videos man, I’ve been painting for 14 years now, but I still learn tips and tricks from your videos, keep it up!
Awesome comment! Definitely understand what you mean about finishing with the DA. I will try only to finish with 320 and a soft interface pad as the point is to only refine the filler so the primer has less shrinkage. 1.4 is a great fluid tip as well, as we use that quite often and gets the primer lay down smooth and dry quick. All great points you mentioned and thanks for being a subscriber and fan!
@@PaintSociety if I could give a video recommendation, only because I don’t see many at all out there, a tinting video would be cool and a video how you go about matching pearls, also a video explaining the good uses of a wet bed.
Every time you pull out an image of an expensive blow paint booth and the unobtanium turbine sprayer I turn off. This is not how anyone does a paint job at home.
How does a blowup paint booth and the word expensive go in the same sentence? Its literally the cheapest way to do a decent paint job. The sprayer i am interested in though
You can do all this with cans Eastwood will sell everything in cans you just have to do extra steps like sanding more to get a better finish@@robertfontaine3650
Amazing!! You're a real one. God bless you & the family. Keep these videos coming my friend. 🙏🏽
I appreciate that!
The 1000%%% correct way to body work a Panle start to finish for those really important jobs ! !!! Great video !!!
Btw back yard is extremely beautiful
Ty bro! We are getting some beautiful weather down here lately so might as well get out there and record, beats videos at the shop.
@PaintSociety yup !!
@@PaintSocietyI'm new to the channel but you in South FL??
Well Brian. You were true to your word. You’d have another video before the end of the weekend. Seeing your son reminds me of my past. My kids always wanted to help their dad. That’s what makes them what they are today. Great content as always. Enjoy your family in sunny Florida.
I did! Now off to Tennessee for thanksgiving ! Thank you so much for noticing my boy, keeping him in some of the videos to build a memory for me to watch and look back on, I actually left him in by accident on a couple of edits, but it ended up being pretty funny when he asked me if my name is Brian ha ha! Glad I could provide you with someone of those memories to look back on.
Enjoy the memories. Kids grow up quick. Enjoy your Thanksgiving with family and friends.
@@jimprovax6846 ty! Add me on facebook if you have it. Brian Tonietti
You da man bro!!!! Ive learned so much from you. I always outsourced any of the paint work on any of my project builds but could paint a little just didnt know the ins and outs of the procedures and body work and so on. After watching pretty much all your stuff and being a subscriber and listening to you i can actually lay down some jobs that anyone would be proud of and actually the truck i built recently has won several best of shows this past summer at local car shows!!! Thank you for everything you do and for explaining all your methods to where us guys and gals can get it and with practice and trials and fixing errors can do these type jobs and be more than proud of the job we did!!!! I watch some of the other guys and 1 in paticular just for the entertainment as i actually call him (10 footer)...lol i bet you can guess by that comment who i am reffering to!!! But again thanks for all the effort and pride you take in your work and trust me it shows in your students work also... because our teacher is just that dang good!!!!!
Awesome. Love to read comments and stories like this! Congrats on your newly gained skill
Excellent video very informative I've been painting boats and cars most of my life and I'm still learning you definitely know what you're doing
Im immersed and invested in your channel.
wow ! that view out of back of your garden👍👍 another brilliant video mate
Nothing like coming home to this
Just an fyi etch primers and epoxy primers do like each other…the etch that you’re using luckily doesn’t contain that much acid…but for future reference I’d look into the TDS for those products bc almost always they never want epoxy’s to touch etching primers and vice versa…and that’s not putting you down at all I actually love your channel and think that what you do is awesome for our industry because it shows people the amount of work that really goes into it and more importantly the time that goes into it, you’re not disassembling stripping doing all the metal work then bodywork then paint work all in a 30 minute episode…so please keep the content rolling for all of us that sleep eat and breathe collision repair…thanks man
Thats great info! That is what the society is all about! I myself can learn as well everyone !
Really cranking out so much great content!! Thanks for the variety, some from the booth and some from home. Brilliant stuff!
As much variety as possible thank you so much for noticing!
Just another excellent vid Brian. Your channel is just outstanding! I have learned a ton from you. Thank you Sir.
Thank you! This is why Paint Society was created to help people just like you
Another amazing video!!!
Tons of information in each one of them!!
Thanks so much Brian!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Love the videos, Brian. Definitely learn a lot from these.
Glad you like them!
Really great video, thanks for sharing
I've used epoxy primer for sealer many times, seemed to work good for me
Yes it does. Great way to do things
I painted my car a couple years ago following your tutorials, greetings from Mexico!
That is awesome!
Love the Saturday nite video drop!
4 videos this week. Going on vacation now lol
Another great one Brian. Enjoy your vacation.
Thank you, I will😊😊
Great video Brian ❤
Just painted a bumper today using a clear coat you recommended, great channel 👍
Awesome Juan!
Thanks for the video... your little helper is cute!
Thank you! Getting big!
So helpful i enjoy this series ☺️
I thought maybe you would show another grill session, that top sirloin was picture perfect. Great video, thank you again.
Ha! Great idea 😀
Big Thumbs Up!
Your backyard looks beautiful. Florida looks amazing. I’m up in Washington by Canada and Spokane.
Ty bro!
I just used some SPI Epoxy primer for the 1st time and this stuff lays nice but sands very well after 24hrs. The TDS even say its designed to sand. You can build up the coats and use it as a very mild surfacer and of course add some reducer to use it as a sealer.
Thanks for sharing, would love to try!
This is some good info thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Brian. Can you explain why you used 2 different primers vs just urethane primer both times, so us beginners can understand? Thank you
Great video😊
Thanks for the visit
How many coats of epoxy did you do? In the last episode I thought you said 1 but in another one you used 2. I’m doing my roof and need to know how many of eastwoods aerospray cans I need. How do you feel about using those by the way?
The 2k epoxy out of the gun is a much better product. I do 2 with the cans and one with the spray gun.
ok, I might still have to go with the spray can as I don’t have the money to get a whole paint setup. I can’t roll/brush on epoxy primer can I?
Good job
Brian what did you use to treat the rust
Fast etch from eastwood
Thanks Brian love the channel
Great series...thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Hey Brian, I'm always hearing that you need body filler to be laid on top of bare metal or else you can have adhesion issues. I have not really done that for the last 10 cars I've painted. The last two cars I finished painting, I took the low spot down to bare metal, bogged and used a block to sand it down flat. Both of those jobs got mapping and I only noticed it after the paint job was done.... Wont 180 help with adhesion onto paint?
Great Video!!
Thanks! In future videos we will treat rust ! 😹
Brian! Awesome video! You should use the Blackwidow 2.0 to refinish more in the future. Keep up the great content!💪
Thanks! Will do!
Hi Brian, was it possible to directly put a wet and wet instead of the 2k urethane? Thanks
Yea if its epoxy wet on wet (sealer in us) you could if it didnt need body work
Hi brian! Instead of using the self etch can primer after sanding revealing some bare metal. Could i just respray expoxy primer over that spot? Thanks. I love the videos!
Yes, absolutely and thats the best way
Great video. Question, you’re working over bare metal; what changes would you make over 50 year old paint that appears to be in good condition. It has the dings and dents you would expect. Nearly all is original except for a small area painted with base/clear (wrong color match)
If its 50 year old paint i would still strip to bare metal. You dont know whats hidden under😊
I need to get some sanding blocks. A couple bigger ones anyway.
Any suggestions on epoxy primer/primer thats not eastwood?
Nason has a good one
Hey Brian thanks again for another great and informative video Brian did you see the little angel on the floor and walking around god bless you and your family keep you safe god willing
Thank you!! 🥹I saw him on the floor only once i started editing! Ha! I let him hang out with me when I record, its DIY style at home, and folks seems to appreciate it. Thank you for the love and happy thanksgiving
Question, can you paint in the winter in cool weather, and does it have an effect on the paint? Thank you love your videos 🔥
Yes you can! But try and get out in the heat of the day. Cold weather can affect the outcome of the paint job
Love seeing the turbine being used, please share what your settings end up being once you get them dialed in how you like it.
Yes I will. I have alot to learn but i love the lack of overspray
@@PaintSociety where can i get me a turbine thing? Does it require different spray guns as well?
Can you brush/roll on epoxy and urethane primer?
Yes, that's possible, but it will create a very rough surface, and that's not ideal.
Yes. Check out opti flow from eastwood
@@PaintSociety does it go on just as well as out of the gun and is the same level of protection/same quality?
Hello what size needle did you use for primer
Regular spray gun. 1.8
You use epoxy primer like sealer just to protect the metal right?
Yes
thanks
You're welcome!
Where did you get that Milwaukee DA cordless?
Its on pre release to influencers. Available December. You can pre order
Would all these steps be the same with Aluminium panels.
I'm looking at painting my boat
Yes i would
How many oz of primer did you use on those last two coats? Just curious…. Be interesting to see how much true actually materials used for this job cost.
13 ounces
@PaintSociety thanks for that!! I always struggle with knowing how much anything to mix. I clearcoated some headlights and wasted a bunch of clear... well actually I wanted to use it all up, made a bunch of runs 😅
@@PaintSociety So approx 10% of a gallon. Not much! Thx
Thanks Brian.
You're welcome!
Hi
Beginner here
Is it okay to use 360 instead of 320 or is the 360 too fine of a scratch?
Also any advice for sanding after your primer is applied would be appreciated
Will be fine 360. Sand primer with 400 and 600
Brian, I recently got my first paint spray gun and want to start practicing with it. Are there any inexpensive materials you could recommend for practicing, before I start spending more money on nicer paint and clear for spraying actual parts? Thanks again for all the great info.
Good questions. Paint materials are pricey but i know ppg shopline and omni lines are budget friendly.
Thanks for the video Brian. If there some reason you don’tuse etch primer on the bare metal? Looking forward ti your response. (Still learning lol)
Phillip Hall
I did but only for spots not bigger then a coffee mug. Epoxy is the better option here
I have an 89 Chevy OBS that has great potential except the paint on the cab top is worn off. Rust is covered. I can get the best part of the rust off but the pores will no doubt have rust the sanding can’t reach. What do I do? It was for this cause I was asking about etch primer for such a scenario. 🤷🏻♂️ lol Thanks,
Phillip Hall
@ go back to the first video
Of this series and look at “fast etch”. Link is in the description of that video. It will remove the rust in hard areas. You can also use a product called
Ospho
@
Awesome! Thanks so much!
Phillip Hall
I’m currently working on a 1996 f150 at the farm shop, all the body work is done and filler primer is on. I haven’t bought my sealer, base or clear yet but I’m debating whether or not I want to spray a 2k clear. Do you have any advice for respirators/safety gear that would be adequate if I was to go the 2K route or is it a smarter decision to go with a 1K? Thanks
You should only spray 2k if you went a chance at a good finish. Also get yourself a 3m full face respirator. Around $150 but much better then half mask
Thanks for the help and great content Brian!
Nice video. Subbed
Thanks for the sub!
AC in the garage? Nice.
I have to ask what's the point of the epoxy? Couldn't you just put etch and filler and go straight to primer? I'm confused what's the point of epoxy when you sanded the filler down to metal afterwards. Why does filler have to be over epoxy?
Epoxy prevents rust. Etch is a sub standard product to do body work over.
@PaintSociety I see...so if you're not doing any filler and just strip down to metal you can just etch and go straight to 2k primer? Or still use epoxy sealer?
@@kenmastersmasteryou can just etch if your not doing any body work. Epoxy is only really for when you need to add filler. You want that epoxy under the filler because the hardners of the body fillers contain water and well you don’t want water to come in contact with a bare metal surface.
@@kenmastersmasteryou can etch if theres no body work.
@@DominicHadrychperfect response 😊😊
I think you should start to give paint classes
I do😀 right here
What’s the brand and model of the power source or compressor you’re using with that gun?
Check out toward the end of the video. You probably skipped over if yours asking this but its a turbine by apollo. 😊
@ would you say a turbine setup is better than a traditional setup using an air compressor and high dollar gun ? Looking to start at home but want the best setup without breaking the bank
@Newmoneymarc its a great option because it takes out the equation of dirty air and definitely is much more mobile, and nowadays with the more portable tools on the market that you don’t need a air compressor to run Sanders or grinders, I would say that it is a better option, but it does come with the cost
@ so would you say going with the turbine and there spray guns will lay down better then say a DV1 on an air compressor ? Or it equates to about the same quality finish
In a shop i will take a compressor
Over turbine any-day but being mobile or at home, the turbine wins. Results depends on the painter and experience.
Turbine has a tiny pattern..?
I have alot to learn. Usually its 10 inches but with primer and the variety of tips of fluids options available, i still have to dial it in
Instead of the self etching primer on those bare metal spots I would have used a auto prep etch wipe. I just think they are easier and faster. I can dry it almost instantly with some air.
They are also about $80 per container and not readily available for a do it yourself or so yeah I would have used the wipe as well in the body shop but not for do it yourself at home
@ holy! $80 a can is expensive! I don’t know the cost of most of the products I use everyday. 😂 I wonder if a diy person could buy just 1 wipe at a time? Might make it worth it. Great video! I’ve learned a lot from your channel.
Hey sonny get off my lawn lol nice video
Lol! Enjoy your time off. Happy to see that
@PaintSociety 👊👊
Where can i get this Milwaukee DAY sander?
Pre order now. Available December
@@PaintSocietyon your website?
I’m the first one here that’s not a bot!
Deleting those !!
Paint society video idea: I bring my project truck to Florida in 2k sanded to 320 and you help me finish it😅 this is the step of the project where I’m starting to run out of confidence.
It's just paint, if it doesn't turn out, you can always sand it and have another go. I painted a pearl paint job for my first try and it turned out great. You might surprise yourself
@ yeah that’s what I keep trying to tell myself. And I want to believe it. I’m just worried about killing probably 30-40 hours of sanding and 7-800 in product.
@@Adam-b8iyeah that’s what I worry about, waste 7-$800 in paint to possibly do it again, not worth the chance
update brother?
I do not like the idea of blocking and then using a DA over your bodywork that is already straight. A DA seems to make the filler wavy, but I guess your primer will take care of that if you’re using a primer gun. I like a 1.4/1.5 for primer to put on the least amount of material as possible, but slick and flat…”thin win” from bodywork to paint and clear, the less I put on (to a certain extent of course) the less problems I have now and later. I like using slow hardener’s/reducer’s in all the products that I can to help flow and flash nice instead of piling it on to make it flow…bodyfiller/primer/sealer/paint/clear, it all goes on smoother when you’re not piling it on. So I find finishing my filler with a block a better way, For Me, to have less blocking/sanding needed to have a nice, clean and straight substrate for my sealer, which in turn gives me a good surface for my base coat to lay nice and flat….THEN I have Great foundation for my Slow activated high solids clear to be sprayed nice and thin and flat flat flat. Love all your videos man, I’ve been painting for 14 years now, but I still learn tips and tricks from your videos, keep it up!
Awesome comment! Definitely understand what you mean about finishing with the DA. I will try only to finish with 320 and a soft interface pad as the point is to only refine the filler so the primer has less shrinkage. 1.4 is a great fluid tip as well, as we use that quite often and gets the primer lay down smooth and dry quick. All great points you mentioned and thanks for being a subscriber and fan!
@@PaintSociety if I could give a video recommendation, only because I don’t see many at all out there, a tinting video would be cool and a video how you go about matching pearls, also a video explaining the good uses of a wet bed.
@joshuawormington2880 that’s a fantastic recommendation, I’m on it!
Dang hopefully the newbies don’t get too confused and what you did. Hardly explained anything on the verbiage’s you used. lol.
I am one of the worst teachers 😂❤
I thought your not to sand epoxy
You have to scuff it for the next step, not sand it smooth for paint
Every time you pull out an image of an expensive blow paint booth and the unobtanium turbine sprayer I turn off. This is not how anyone does a paint job at home.
Get with the times.
@@PaintSociety The next time someone sends me free shit to shill on youtube I'll get right on that.
You do you bro. I want to watch how you do it on your channel.
How does a blowup paint booth and the word expensive go in the same sentence? Its literally the cheapest way to do a decent paint job. The sprayer i am interested in though
You can do all this with cans Eastwood will sell everything in cans you just have to do extra steps like sanding more to get a better finish@@robertfontaine3650
Once you started sanding the guide coat...my OCD kicked in....bro???
?
Awesome video thanks for making it
Glad you liked it!