I wish I had known this a long time ago. Working with solvent on concrete is very hard. Almost impossible to eliminate roller Marks on the over lap. Great technique
I hope you are using a water-based sealer. If you do this with a solvent-based sealer, the second pass will pull up the existing sealer as if you had stepped in bubblegum on hot asphalt.
Does this dry roller technique work with all kinds of sealers & top coats, i.e. urethanes, acrylics, both solvent & water based, epoxies, polyaspartics, etc? Thanks so much
So should you spray the sealer on or roll the sealer on? I'm seeing it both ways I have about a 100 sq ft living or more. How many dry rollers do you think this will need? For the extra dry rolling
So please clear up this for me: You apply UV protective clear ACRYLIC sealer first and then when it dries you apply the water-based non-yellowing POLYURITHANE sealer (gloss)? Thanks!
The dry rolling isn’t knocking down the roller lines it’s picking them up. ( It’s picking up sealer). If you apply the sealer in very thin coats as all manufactures recommend you won’t have roller lines.
What about when you have a huge floor to do and the sealer dries so fast that you have to worry about the next row ? One can only roll so far away from their body without walking into the wet product. The floor I’m doing isn’t cut up into small sections. It’s 800 continuous sq ft . I get overlap marks where I’m trying to meet up each row . If that makes sense .
Which sealer (name of the product) are you using? Has the surface been primed? We usually recommend a water based acrylic sealer to be sprayed and back rolled before applying a polyurethane topcoat. Spraying the first coat helps a lot in avoiding roller marks.
I got air bubbles in areas that were in the sun. I believe the sun was warming the concrete, causing the air trapped in the concrete pores to warm and expand, and then oozing out the top of the concrete and forming bubbles. Solution is probably to avoid applying in direct sunlight.
The Air bubbles come from the product being applied too thick. Should use a thinner roller nap when applying. What is happening is the product closest to the concrete is drying while there is still product on top of that, which is wet. Thinner nap. It sucks cause it’s not easy especially if you have a larger surface area to do. But if you want it done right 👍🏽
I wish I had known this a long time ago. Working with solvent on concrete is very hard. Almost impossible to eliminate roller Marks on the over lap. Great technique
Thank you for your comments
i was about to put sealer on 2000 sq ft of concrete stain...this is a very good tip.thank you
I hope you are using a water-based sealer. If you do this with a solvent-based sealer, the second pass will pull up the existing sealer as if you had stepped in bubblegum on hot asphalt.
Does this dry roller technique work with all kinds of sealers & top coats, i.e. urethanes, acrylics, both solvent & water based, epoxies, polyaspartics, etc? Thanks so much
After the sealer dries, and you see roller marks(where u stopped, and started another section) can that be fixed?
So should you spray the sealer on or roll the sealer on? I'm seeing it both ways
I have about a 100 sq ft living or more. How many dry rollers do you think this will need? For the extra dry rolling
Golden nugget tip right there.
Thank you.
Thanks for the tip. I’m using a water based sealer tomorrow on my newly stained garage floor. I’ll have my wife dry roll after I wet roll it.
better to have ur wife to do wet roll lol
lew lei 👍🤪
So please clear up this for me: You apply UV protective clear ACRYLIC sealer first and then when it dries you apply the water-based non-yellowing POLYURITHANE sealer (gloss)? Thanks!
Yes. Correct.
best to apply a sealer to a shed concrete base before the shed is up or once its done ? applying in direct sunlight might be an issue?
Okay
Thanks! worked great, glad i looked this up today.
Wish I looked this up yesterday 🤔😁
You rolled it on the first time then sprayed it on the second time, why? If you spay it on evenly, why do you have to roll it afterwards?
Cause its water base. This technique wont work with solvent base.
The dry rolling isn’t knocking down the roller lines it’s picking them up. ( It’s picking up sealer). If you apply the sealer in very thin coats as all manufactures recommend you won’t have roller lines.
What about when you have a huge floor to do and the sealer dries so fast that you have to worry about the next row ? One can only roll so far away from their body without walking into the wet product. The floor I’m doing isn’t cut up into small sections. It’s 800 continuous sq ft . I get overlap marks where I’m trying to meet up each row . If that makes sense .
Which sealer (name of the product) are you using? Has the surface been primed? We usually recommend a water based acrylic sealer to be sprayed and back rolled before applying a polyurethane topcoat. Spraying the first coat helps a lot in avoiding roller marks.
I got a ton of air bubbles... does this help with that?
I got air bubbles in areas that were in the sun. I believe the sun was warming the concrete, causing the air trapped in the concrete pores to warm and expand, and then oozing out the top of the concrete and forming bubbles. Solution is probably to avoid applying in direct sunlight.
The Air bubbles come from the product being applied too thick. Should use a thinner roller nap when applying. What is happening is the product closest to the concrete is drying while there is still product on top of that, which is wet.
Thinner nap. It sucks cause it’s not easy especially if you have a larger surface area to do. But if you want it done right 👍🏽
Wish I had watched this before I started my back deck....lesson learned!! Now how do I fix roller marks that I already made? 😂
Sand the surface and reapply
Can you elaborate on this? Sand with what? What grit? Wet or dry? Until the streaks are gone?
@@DuraamenFloors
Not with a solvent-based sealer. You'll ruin your floor.
But you’d go through 10 rollers.
Looks the same..