Hi Richard, Thanks a bunch for showing this. Saved me a bunch of time hunting around my wife's car looking for the transmission fluid dipstick. Little did I know the only transmission fluid dipstick on an A4 is the guy looking for it. BTW - Just out of safety concerns, and I'll admit I'm being nitpicky here, I cringe when I see hollow cinder blocks supporting loads this way (on their sides). They tend to catastrophically fail when loads are applied from the sides, which is exactly when you need them to bear the load the most. To prove my point, just take a hammer and see how quickly one comes apart when hammered from the side vs vertically. Demonstrate this little safety tip to one of your kids, they'll never let you or a loved one support a car that way again, lol. Nuff said. Be safe! Thanks again!
Always always crack the fill plug first before the drain plug. If you can’t crack your fill plug then you’re screwed. Also, lol love the ending. My husband and I work together and he’s holding, I’m pumping lol
Just to be helpful, your cinder blocks are not sitting the right way. All the solid sides should be facing out, with the holes to the ground and the sky. The integrity and load bearing capacity of a block is much reduced the way you have it.
It's a multitronic CVT transmission, that's why it's a front wheel drive, and that's also why you fill it with the wrong oil !!! The CVT does not take ATF there is a special CVT oil which looks and qmells more like a manual gearbox or differential oil. ALWAYS VERIFY YOUR INFORMATION BEFORE SHARING IT WITH SOMEONE !
You should have filled it again with the engine running after the fill you showed in the video. And the fluid temp should be 35 - 45 C. If anyone just follows this video THEIR TRANSMISSION WILL BE SEVERAL LITRES OF FLUID LOW. The reason you got a strong flow out of the fill hole at the beginning of the video is because THE ENGINE WAS NOT RUNNING,
it seems to me that no matter what, if you put back in what you take out.... at any temperature... you will have the same amount in total when you are done.... especially if we are talking a partial "change" of fluid. My question is Why did so much come out of the fill hole? Does this mean it had far too much fluid to begin with? and how is that possible given the design of the transmission and filling from underneath?
Some of y'all need to chill out. It's a drain and fill. Just drain 3 quarts (you know how to partially drain and measure what you drain, right?) and pump the same amount back in....then repeat.
Here is a tip.I bought a bug sprayer adapted it to a 5/16th rubber hose the a 1/4" copper hook.Put fluid in sprayer,hook hose pump bug sprayer until it runs out and release pressure..
Do not ever put weight on cinder blocks when they are on their side! Cinder blocks are designed to support weight on their edges. Take a hammer once and hit a cinder block on the side and see what happens... It will shatter same thing can happen with your vehicle sitting on it.
There so many wrong points in this video.If anyone follows the steps in the video may cause transmission damage due to insufficient fluid after refill.This is a complex car that requires little more than common sense to service,it’s not a Toyota.Spend some money on the right tools and do a research on the correct procedure and have the job done the right way the first time!
Similar to auto transmission filling on Chev cobalts, and some other GM models. Less fluid leaks out with the engine running, because it's busy being pumped into the circuits by the transmission pump. If the engine is off, there will no pumping, so the trans fluid will all settle back into the bottom of the transmission, causing a lot of it to drain out the drain hole. It's this complicated to deter people from doing maintenance at home, so that the dealership can have your money. Unfortunately, this is allowed in automotive design.
I got 6quarts out of mine, I warmed it for 15min i checked the trans temp it was between 35 to 45c.. I also removed the external filter, so not sure how much fluid was also held inside the filter.. I also spilled some on the ground by accident.. The fill plug, has this plastic cone like thing inside which seems to go up pretty high inside the trans.. so not sure how any type of hook can really go inside there and hook onto anything.. It's a fairly narrow channel, I used a similar hose as you did, just to test fit, whether I can even get anything up in there to fill.. It seemed to work good, with that harbor freight transfer pump and hoses ($6). However i might use a ATF fill system, it looks like a bug sprayer with a regulator on, also a relief valve to release pressure in the tank, it shows how much pressure you build in the system by hand pumping it.. it also has an attachment that screws onto the fill plug location with a quick connect feature to force the fluid up into the trans.. However with this method i won't be able to see the fluid dripping out once the trans is full car at the recommended Audi temp between 35 to 45c range, continue refilling as required, if nothing pours out.. my car has 193k and it's only been changed once in its lifetime.. so perhaps the fluid was also low by years of use! The cvt trans also has the inner filter, but it would have to be broken down to get to it, I am not willing to go that far. I'm not doing a flush, just a fill like you guys are.. I've read on few forums it takes 7quarts perhaps 7.5quarts when external filter removed.. My only concern is like you, there was a reasonable amount of fluid draining out of the fill plug once removed, i fear what i put in will come back out through there.. Not sure if you have experienced this issue, or whether your car has the strange plastic cone thing inside the fill side.. Any feedback would be very much appreciated!
If you turn the car on- the transmission fluid will. It leak out of fill plug. I think something to do with transmission part like torque converter which affects levels.
Without the engine running the torque converter isnt taking what it needs which adds to the level in the pan. The proper way to fill is to have the engine running after you initially fill it, and continue to fill it after the engine is running.
@@deasttn I was referring to his in video text stating that there was more than enough oil in the transmission because it was coming out of the fill plug, but the engine wasnt running which makes that a false statement.
Are you sure that is TipTronic transmission? Not a Multitronic? FWD A4 B6 had a CVT transmission i guess. They need completly other kind of fluid. CVT fluid NOT ATF! Only Quattro and really powerfull engines had a TipTronic(Here in Europe, and i guess in the US we have identical situation)
goodnight friend . I'm from Brazil, congratulations for your video. I have an Audi A4 Avant 1.8 T 2005/2006. I need to change the oil in my transmission (CVT). I called an Audi store here in my city and they said the year of my car, there is no oil filter in the box, is that right? Can you give me some tips to change this oil? I have to change with the engine on or off. Anyone who can help me, giving me tips on this exchange I'm grateful. thank you in advance.
Hey in the beginning of the video u list tools needed.u said a 10mm hex socket and a specialty 16 point tool. Is the dealership the only place I can buy the tool?
A little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing. No way would I go under a car that's sitting on 2" walls of concrete :D That's an accident waiting to happen.
You put the car on concrete blocks but the blocks should be solid concrete (you are using the hollow kind) and you have the blocks turned the wrong way as well. The best and safest way would be to go buy solid concrete blocks, the solid blocks are not expensive. Do not use hollow ones, they can not be expected to support the weight of a car. Very unsafe.
Don't use ANYTHING except metallic equipment that's supposed to take the cars weight and hold it in place, and never use a single set. Always make sure if something gives in you've got the time to back out before the backup lets go. On both sides.
With my 2003 Audi a4 Quattro 1.8T, I suspect low fluid because it has a persistent leak. So I expect there to be NO dripping when I remove the fill plug. I am doing this cold because I cannot drive the car. I could warm up the engine, but will that warm up the transmission too?
Hi I have audi a4 2004 model 2.0 It is missing when I am taking out from parking and also gear take time to change when I take out from parking when I am driving the gear some time automatically comes in neutral and then I stop apply brakes and it start working again. can you help me.
What an idiotic design! How much would a transmission dipstick have cost? Filling from the top is easier and makes much more sense. More "german engineering".
Most all newer cars don't have a trans dip stick. They require filling from under the vehicle. German cars are well designed just as ones from Asia, the US, and any country. However. they can be expensive.
I agree. And ANYONE who owns these cars, rich or poor, should be able to see the levels of fluids needed to maintain them without jacking up the car and sticking your finger in a hole. Imagine if there was no gas gauge?
Ad Mirer There are a lot of jackasses who don’t know how to fillet transmission up properly and most of the newer cars require the car to be warm and running and sitting flat by removing the dipstick people will take it to a shop and have somebody who knows what they’re doing fillet that’s why German cars don’t have a dipstick pretty awesome Ha
He didn't finish the video because he didn't do it right. I bet he drained over 6 quarts and was only able to fill up maybe 5. lol. You need to start the car, shift through the gears, and fill up the fluid between temps 30-45c, 45 being the maximum where the fluid starts to drip. After 45c, you are now losing fluid. How is the car running today?
Uh...it's been running flawlessly for two years...checked the fill plug the other day...red cough syrup came out...you trolls just want to complain...go to the dealer and get plowed in the ass.
Bro, no one is trolling you. You obviously don't understand the logic behind changing out the fluid the way I described. I didn't mention going to the dealer, never go there, they probably change oil the way you do. And by the way, two years is relatively small comparing to a lifetime of your car. No one is complaining, just correcting the obvious flaws in your video. Don't be a sore loser, and maybe learn a few things. Good luck.
Thats just one, there are 2 present, other one is on an oil pressure line which should be changed every 35,000 miles, the internal filter only needs changed every 90,000 miles ...
Useless ..release fill plug first to drain shows its overfilled gives confusing statment on quantity needed...to drain..dosent show actual fill plug ( triple point ??? 16mm ...then makes a hash of filling screaming about a third guy needed..so how NOT to do should be title
why would temp matter? Take out cold, put back in cold. same difference. Especially since this is a change and not a flush or total fluid swap. In my case, car has been up on jacks all night and I will do a CHANGE only while cold. Furthermore, I cannot drive the vehicle because it is low on fluid due to a persistent leak. So warming up the transmission is not an option for me. I could warm up the engine, yes. But I cant drive it.
Hi Richard,
Thanks a bunch for showing this. Saved me a bunch of time hunting around my wife's car looking for the transmission fluid dipstick. Little did I know the only transmission fluid dipstick on an A4 is the guy looking for it.
BTW - Just out of safety concerns, and I'll admit I'm being nitpicky here, I cringe when I see hollow cinder blocks supporting loads this way (on their sides). They tend to catastrophically fail when loads are applied from the sides, which is exactly when you need them to bear the load the most. To prove my point, just take a hammer and see how quickly one comes apart when hammered from the side vs vertically.
Demonstrate this little safety tip to one of your kids, they'll never let you or a loved one support a car that way again, lol. Nuff said.
Be safe!
Thanks again!
Always always crack the fill plug first before the drain plug. If you can’t crack your fill plug then you’re screwed.
Also, lol love the ending. My husband and I work together and he’s holding, I’m pumping lol
This.
Just to be helpful, your cinder blocks are not sitting the right way. All the solid sides should be facing out, with the holes to the ground and the sky. The integrity and load bearing capacity of a block is much reduced the way you have it.
It's a multitronic CVT transmission, that's why it's a front wheel drive, and that's also why you fill it with the wrong oil !!! The CVT does not take ATF there is a special CVT oil which looks and qmells more like a manual gearbox or differential oil. ALWAYS VERIFY YOUR INFORMATION BEFORE SHARING IT WITH SOMEONE !
Idk why they get the fwd Audi anyways it’s garbage and the cvt is garbage as well the same shi with altimas that cvt transmission is a bxtch 😭
You should have filled it again with the engine running after the fill you showed in the video. And the fluid temp should be 35 - 45 C. If anyone just follows this video THEIR TRANSMISSION WILL BE SEVERAL LITRES OF FLUID LOW.
The reason you got a strong flow out of the fill hole at the beginning of the video is because THE ENGINE WAS NOT RUNNING,
it seems to me that no matter what, if you put back in what you take out.... at any temperature... you will have the same amount in total when you are done.... especially if we are talking a partial "change" of fluid.
My question is Why did so much come out of the fill hole? Does this mean it had far too much fluid to begin with? and how is that possible given the design of the transmission and filling from underneath?
It came out of the fill hole because the engine wasn't running.
@@marcschneider6510 I concur, why do folks object to a partial drain and fill?
If you drain 4 quarts and refill with 4 quarts, how is that bad?
@@deasttn In theory thats not a bad idea but what if you had a leak or it wasnt serviced correctly previously?
Some of y'all need to chill out. It's a drain and fill.
Just drain 3 quarts (you know how to partially drain and measure what you drain, right?) and pump the same amount back in....then repeat.
That may be true on some vehicles, but not on the Audis.
Here is a tip.I bought a bug sprayer adapted it to a 5/16th rubber hose the a 1/4" copper hook.Put fluid in sprayer,hook hose pump bug sprayer until it runs out and release pressure..
Larry Cox good idea
Larry Cox its funny ima about to do this job and I have one laying in my garage amd thought of using it
Do not ever put weight on cinder blocks when they are on their side! Cinder blocks are designed to support weight on their edges. Take a hammer once and hit a cinder block on the side and see what happens... It will shatter same thing can happen with your vehicle sitting on it.
There so many wrong points in this video.If anyone follows the steps in the video may cause transmission damage due to insufficient fluid after refill.This is a complex car that requires little more than common sense to service,it’s not a Toyota.Spend some money on the right tools and do a research on the correct procedure and have the job done the right way the first time!
But didn't he put back in the same amount that he removed?
@@deasttn thats not how it works lol
@@pssa3215 how so?
Similar to auto transmission filling on Chev cobalts, and some other GM models. Less fluid leaks out with the engine running, because it's busy being pumped into the circuits by the transmission pump. If the engine is off, there will no pumping, so the trans fluid will all settle back into the bottom of the transmission, causing a lot of it to drain out the drain hole.
It's this complicated to deter people from doing maintenance at home, so that the dealership can have your money. Unfortunately, this is allowed in automotive design.
You don't start a transmission without oil, idiot...
I got 6quarts out of mine, I warmed it for 15min i checked the trans temp it was between 35 to 45c.. I also removed the external filter, so not sure how much fluid was also held inside the filter.. I also spilled some on the ground by accident.. The fill plug, has this plastic cone like thing inside which seems to go up pretty high inside the trans.. so not sure how any type of hook can really go inside there and hook onto anything.. It's a fairly narrow channel, I used a similar hose as you did, just to test fit, whether I can even get anything up in there to fill.. It seemed to work good, with that harbor freight transfer pump and hoses ($6). However i might use a ATF fill system, it looks like a bug sprayer with a regulator on, also a relief valve to release pressure in the tank, it shows how much pressure you build in the system by hand pumping it.. it also has an attachment that screws onto the fill plug location with a quick connect feature to force the fluid up into the trans.. However with this method i won't be able to see the fluid dripping out once the trans is full car at the recommended Audi temp between 35 to 45c range, continue refilling as required, if nothing pours out.. my car has 193k and it's only been changed once in its lifetime.. so perhaps the fluid was also low by years of use! The cvt trans also has the inner filter, but it would have to be broken down to get to it, I am not willing to go that far. I'm not doing a flush, just a fill like you guys are.. I've read on few forums it takes 7quarts perhaps 7.5quarts when external filter removed.. My only concern is like you, there was a reasonable amount of fluid draining out of the fill plug once removed, i fear what i put in will come back out through there.. Not sure if you have experienced this issue, or whether your car has the strange plastic cone thing inside the fill side.. Any feedback would be very much appreciated!
Hi, how did you get the filter out. It has two cooler pipes connected and they are not moving enough to get the filter out.
*I don't think those grey breeze blocks are safe ...😐😨*
By third guy you mean a peace of bailing wire wrapped around whatever was close enough?
If you turn the car on- the transmission fluid will. It leak out of fill plug. I think something to do with transmission part like torque converter which affects levels.
Without the engine running the torque converter isnt taking what it needs which adds to the level in the pan. The proper way to fill is to have the engine running after you initially fill it, and continue to fill it after the engine is running.
3:08
He put in what he took out
@@deasttn I was referring to his in video text stating that there was more than enough oil in the transmission because it was coming out of the fill plug, but the engine wasnt running which makes that a false statement.
@@om606ram6 fair enough. I'm still at a loss with how draining 3 quarts and replacing with 3 quarts won't work?
Nb:cvt has no torque converter just saying
@@deasttnit doesn't work like that moron
Are you sure that is TipTronic transmission? Not a Multitronic? FWD A4 B6 had a CVT transmission i guess. They need completly other kind of fluid. CVT fluid NOT ATF! Only Quattro and really powerfull engines had a TipTronic(Here in Europe, and i guess in the US we have identical situation)
Third guy! Fancy! I always have to do it by myself! :(
You said $95 for fluid, How much were the jack stand, socket to take the plug out and the harbor freight oil pump. I guess knowledge should be free.
Great video. Thanks for sharing
"cheers" from oz...(ps) this is the last audiA4 i ever want to work on..lol.
That's the way she goes
thanks, man!
Do I have to change the filter and gasket? How would I do this?
Yep that's the way it goes 😂 Do you know how much oil came out? and did you get that same amouth back in..?
Where did you buy the socket from
goodnight friend . I'm from Brazil, congratulations for your video. I have an Audi A4 Avant 1.8 T 2005/2006. I need to change the oil in my transmission (CVT). I called an Audi store here in my city and they said the year of my car, there is no oil filter in the box, is that right? Can you give me some tips to change this oil? I have to change with the engine on or off. Anyone who can help me, giving me tips on this exchange I'm grateful. thank you in advance.
Hey in the beginning of the video u list tools needed.u said a 10mm hex socket and a specialty 16 point tool. Is the dealership the only place I can buy the tool?
A little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing.
No way would I go under a car that's sitting on 2" walls of concrete :D
That's an accident waiting to happen.
You put the car on concrete blocks but the blocks should be solid concrete (you are using the hollow kind) and you have the blocks turned the wrong way as well. The best and safest way would be to go buy solid concrete blocks, the solid blocks are not expensive. Do not use hollow ones, they can not be expected to support the weight of a car. Very unsafe.
he has jack stand as well.
true, but cinder blocks should never be put this way for support, little invisible imperfection in its structure and it folds like a house of cards
Only an ASE certified UA-cam mechanic should use cinder blocks.
Don't use ANYTHING except metallic equipment that's supposed to take the cars weight and hold it in place, and never use a single set. Always make sure if something gives in you've got the time to back out before the backup lets go. On both sides.
Life saving words
Thank you for the video but were is the transmission filter located?
could you please tell me what transmission fluid should I use for my audi a4 2004 2.4 litre?
I’m gonna take a wild guess here and say that’s an automatic.
Which of the two holes did you occupy to put the new oil?
What transmission fluid Pan is that?
Just cause I have the Audi A4 1.8t 2004
How many bottles of fluids
With my 2003 Audi a4 Quattro 1.8T, I suspect low fluid because it has a persistent leak. So I expect there to be NO dripping when I remove the fill plug. I am doing this cold because I cannot drive the car. I could warm up the engine, but will that warm up the transmission too?
Marc Schneider I got the same car it won't shift past first and its got a fluid leak you think that could be why or is the tranny done
How many litre it's takes
That gearbox have a oil filter? If have filter how can I change it?
Hi
I have audi a4 2004 model 2.0
It is missing when I am taking out from parking and also gear take time to change when I take out from parking
when I am driving the gear some time automatically comes in neutral and then I stop apply brakes and it start working again.
can you help me.
is this for the Quattro transmission or is this a CVT?
To me it looks like a CVT.
He said FWD so it's the CVT.
What an idiotic design! How much would a transmission dipstick have cost? Filling from the top is easier and makes much more sense. More "german engineering".
Most all newer cars don't have a trans dip stick. They require filling from under the vehicle. German cars are well designed just as ones from Asia, the US, and any country. However. they can be expensive.
Ad Mirer 🤔 the vehicle doesn't have a dipstick. This must be done from the bottom of the vehicle
It's a CVT trans on the FWD requires a change every 100k miles
I agree. And ANYONE who owns these cars, rich or poor, should be able to see the levels of fluids needed to maintain them without jacking up the car and sticking your finger in a hole. Imagine if there was no gas gauge?
Ad Mirer There are a lot of jackasses who don’t know how to fillet transmission up properly and most of the newer cars require the car to be warm and running and sitting flat by removing the dipstick people will take it to a shop and have somebody who knows what they’re doing fillet that’s why German cars don’t have a dipstick pretty awesome Ha
He didn't finish the video because he didn't do it right. I bet he drained over 6 quarts and was only able to fill up maybe 5. lol. You need to start the car, shift through the gears, and fill up the fluid between temps 30-45c, 45 being the maximum where the fluid starts to drip. After 45c, you are now losing fluid. How is the car running today?
Uh...it's been running flawlessly for two years...checked the fill plug the other day...red cough syrup came out...you trolls just want to complain...go to the dealer and get plowed in the ass.
Bro, no one is trolling you. You obviously don't understand the logic behind changing out the fluid the way I described. I didn't mention going to the dealer, never go there, they probably change oil the way you do. And by the way, two years is relatively small comparing to a lifetime of your car. No one is complaining, just correcting the obvious flaws in your video. Don't be a sore loser, and maybe learn a few things. Good luck.
So what if you don't have this vagcom? Can it be done? How do you shift through gears if car isn't in air, sitting on blocks level?
@@richardcox5246 3:10 what's wrong with that/his method?
Drain 5 litres, replace with 5 litres.
@@deasttnshut up already when his method is clearly nonsense
I just want verify.. this is the CVT trans. correct?
Yes
what camera did you use?
What is especificaron of de olí?
What's the oil you used? And what's the recommended Audi oil?
+Rosendo Castaneda It's been a while since we changed it...i think it was a synthetic oil...you should be able to research that.
4:15 looks like royal purple bottles
Does anyone know how to remove the fluid filter on these type of transmission.
Other have a straight pan outline of the bolts this one does not.
Same for a4 2008 2.0
wath oil you use??? , i have audi a4 2002 luxury cvt
That idiot is using ATF oil for CVT Transmission. CVT needs special CVT fluid like Ravenol CVT or Amsoil CVT.
Si sirve la capota x extensibility
4:20 hilarious
Yea.. that was funny he sound like he know what he doing.
Lmao I know Made me laugh, the hole time calm and shit and then oh fuck! Haha
how bout the filter?
The filter is in the belly of a CVT and is only advised if you're stripping the gearbox
Thats just one, there are 2 present, other one is on an oil pressure line which should be changed every 35,000 miles, the internal filter only needs changed every 90,000 miles ...
Useless ..release fill plug first to drain shows its overfilled gives confusing statment on quantity needed...to drain..dosent show actual fill plug ( triple point ??? 16mm ...then makes a hash of filling screaming about a third guy needed..so how NOT to do should be title
Oh shit
doesnt it have to maintane a certain temp throughout?
+toyotasupra27 Absolutely does. Temp has to be maintained while adding the fluid
why would temp matter? Take out cold, put back in cold. same difference. Especially since this is a change and not a flush or total fluid swap. In my case, car has been up on jacks all night and I will do a CHANGE only while cold. Furthermore, I cannot drive the vehicle because it is low on fluid due to a persistent leak. So warming up the transmission is not an option for me. I could warm up the engine, yes. But I cant drive it.
zoom out mate
This isn't helping
This is dangerous and non mathod
This tutorial is grossly lacking.