I’d love to hear what you thought of the video, was it helpful, enjoyable, easy to follow? Please drop a comment below 👇 Remember, for discount Warhammer minis and paints don’t forget to check out this link: bit.ly/2Zmbd3u If you did like enjoy this video please help support the channel and SUBSCRIBE ua-cam.com/users/brushstrokepaintingguides 🙂
Just to give a little tips with crakle paints, or crakle fillers, i put a layer of primer on my base before applying it, for either mdf or plastic base, it help it to bond better on the base and limit the flakes going off :)
Or you can scratch up the base surface before applying too. For plastic bases it’s important to wash off any release agent, as that is the biggest cause of flakes dropping off
This looks amazing! Great tip with the all purpose filler - looks so much more realistic and scale accurate than all those acrylic texture pastes out there, love it!
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides definitely. Clear steps and well presented. Going to try have a little spin of snow being on the sand which could be a mess but we will see how it goes!
Just wanted to say thank you for this guide - I adapted it to make some badlands-looking bases for a bunch of gnolls I'm going and I'm really happy with how they came out. :)
Extremely wonderful, i was headache about how to craft the base for my Monster hunter boardgame and Warhammer Tombking armies, and here i found your video, impressive! work so well on my miniatures, very easy to understand, thank you
Yep, saw this online and glad to see the tutorial now! I find crackle paints sometimes flake off but yours stayed on nicely even during dry brushing. Great result!
Thank you The biggest cause of crackle paint flaking off is the surface its painted on. A couple of tricks to try, plastic bases benefit from being washed first, as I mentioned in the video. If you still have problems, prime you base first. It’ll give a better surface for the crackle paint to bond with
The video on thinning really changed my ability and, to be honest, confidence in brush painting. Finding all of these others has my eager to to get to painting. Cheers!
Been watching a few of your videos, they are all great! Especially the consistency of the explained details you keep giving is exceptional. :) Thanks for these videos. Cheers!
That’s so great, thank you very much. I’m really glad you found the channel and are enjoying the videos. Please do spread the word and tell anyone who will listen to watch too 🤛🏻
Basing is so much fun! It’s really creative and gives you a chance to set the scene for your minis and even tell little stories. Please do let me know how you get on with this guide and if you have any questions, just ask 👍🏻
Excellent idea and it looks great. My one critique is that when placing a model they will look like they are floating on top of the dune unless they are only put on the crackled ground. Placing a rough spot where the base of the mini is would help the appearance of the model sinking in. The colors are great and I'll definitely use the ideas here.
Thanks for watching. You’re right, this video is just the process and recipe for making the base. Each base needs to be made for the mini it will belong to and the sculpting of the sand needs to reflect the mini standing on it (in it) I tend to sculpt the base while the mini is unpainted so I can position it where I want and sculpt around the feet. I then remove the mini and paint up the base. Hope that makes sense
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides yes, I am moving through them and getting a lot of tips as well. Soon, I will sort all the videos in ascending date order and watch them all.
Thank you. Let me know how you get on. The opus drybrushes are very nice. I’m a big fan of using soft makeup brushes for drybrushing. The opus brushes give the advantages of the soft makeup brush but with the extra control of a artist brush
For this style of basing I always attach using pinning. Supergluing might be ok for a display piece but if you’re planning on gaming then pinning is a must. The best way to ensure the mini will fit naturally on the base is to test position it whilst the filler is still a little soft. Then you can indent the sand slightly and provide a nice effect of weight on the mini. When the base is full dry and painted you can use the indents to position the mini again 🙂
Thank you, glad you found it useful. To attach the mini you will need to pin it yes. Plastic glue won’t work at all. Superglue would only stick to the surface paint, and likely peel off. You may get away with a very light resin mini, but I wouldn’t risk it and so I just pin them to be sure
Firstly, welcome to my channel. Appreciate you checking it out 👍 Lava base would be a nice video to do. Are you wanting the sculpting of it or just the painting recipe?
Ok I went ahead because I’m impatient, and for everyone who wonders : you can totally prime the black with a brush as long as you let the whole thing dry overnight. Just go at it gently. Not even a speck of spackle on my brush after priming 10 bases with it. Did not tear out any of the crackles either.
Sorry, only just saw your question. As you’ve already discovered the answer is really just time. I try and leave mine (like you did) at least overnight and that seems to harden the spackle enough to allow brushing on it etc. Glad it worked out for you and thanks for watching 👍
I'm new to your channel, that's a like and subscribe earned chap! Very informative. I like to use milliput or greenstuff for building up bases as filler is brittle and can crack, but the colours are what I was after! Thank you.
Thank you and welcome to the channel. Totally understand your concerns about filler. I’ve had different brands be a bit brittle before. I’ve found that mixing in some PVA glue can resolve that and make it far more robust. If you’re happy with milliput or greenstuff then that’s cool. I’m a huge believer of finding what works best for you. I love milliput too, great product
Hi, can you tell me something? At the end of the washes is already applied after the matte layer of varnish ? The lacquer is used after the "bone dust".
A thin application of a matte varnish was applied all over the base, right at the end. This secures the weathering powder in place and stops any running off.
This is the best desert base tutorial that I have ever seen, and I would like to replicate it, but I have serious trouble getting forge world bone dust and the testors dull coat. Are there any working replacements for those?
Thank you. I've actually been in touch with ForgeWorld as I didnt realise their weathering powders weren't on their website anymore. They have come back and said they're sorry but they have been permanently removed :( Which is a real shame. Sooooo, I've been trying to find a suitable replacement for bone dust for you. This looks similar (from the pic) bit.ly/32NFNEn but I've ordered some to see if it's a close match, so I'll let you know. And in terms of the Testors Dullcote, any matte spray varnish will work to be honest. Just make sure you test it on something scrap first to make sure you're happy with the finish. The matter the better for this Hope that helps
Thanks for the suggestion, I try and make my bases suitable for the minis I'm painting. So, these desert bases are intended for some camel riding desert warriors. I would say you could achieve the look you're after by following the steps of this video but changing the colours for more browns / tans and then having more tufts to show there's signs of life breaking through. I'll probably end up painting a mini which needs that sort of basing soon enough, so stay tuned :)
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides I'm also thinking tank tracks in hefty cracked dried mud, I have the GSW tank tracks roller on order. Also dried river beds (more a scenery thing I know, have you thought about branching out?), tumble weeds and craters. Ive been sculpting some small craters out of green stuff on my bases but theres no scources for that sort of scale that I've come across (is it to basic to require explanation?)
Can you show us how to prime with an airbrush? I used Vallejo black and white primers and there were splotches everywhere :c i didn't thin it or anything
Filming airbrushing is a bit tricky for me but I can see what I can do. I do thin mine a little with a touch of water though, if that helps. And I would recommend using grey rather than white. I find it a bit smoother
Im wondering how fine that spackle is (spartel in danish)? It has put me off trying a few techniques already, but I think im ready to take the leap after seeing this video.
Not a stupid question at all. The answer is I pin them. Drill a small hole in both model and base and glue a metal pin in between to bind it all together. The exact method does depend on the model in question though. For models like you describe, a bit more planning is needed at the pre-painting stage. I will test fit everything and make sure I know how I want to fix them once painted. If the contact point is going to be poor for the model, I will try and add more support using rocks and terrain to increase the contact points between model and base. Horses for example, can have weak legs, especially when only sculpted to be running with one on the ground. I'll add a rock to bridge the gap to another leg so that it can help support it too. Hope that makes sense
Thank you for the amazing tutorial! I have a question about glueing a model to the base! Since now there's dune with a slope, how do you glue models to such bases?
Thank you. So, when you're making bases it is important to consider the model that will be sitting on it and to make the base with that in mind. Consider where the contact point(s) will need to be, does it need dents in the sand for example? If the model does need to be indented into the sand to show weight etc, then I recommend you gently press the contact points of the model into the wet filler in the position you will be wanting it to be in the end. A good tip is to wet the model contact points so that the filler doesnt stick to it and you get clean indents. When you're ready to add your model to the base I recommend you use pinning. This is where you drill a small hole in the base and in the bottom of the model where they need to join. Then glue a small piece of metal rod (pin) into both making for a really strong connection. For my pins I usually use cut up paperclips. Simply trying to glue your model to the base without pins is not a good idea as you are really only gluing the model to a layer of paint and it will likely break off in time. Hope this helps Thanks for watching :)
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides thanks! I always pin my models but this will be my first time making a base that's not flat so I was curious :) put some water on the model's feet, and gently press it on the filler to create a dent. Got it! Thank you so much! I look forward to try this one out! I'm afraid I don't know what it's called in my country, so I'm thinking of using a basing paste from Vallejo. Have you tried it? Do you think it'll be much different from the filler you used?
Thank you How red do you want to go? I did this base a while back, is that the sort of thing you’re after? instagram.com/p/BrdOxO6ne-1/?igshid=jwdmb1q7qq2z
@@mattiatancredi7352 absolutely, so just change the paint colours to: Base coat - GW Squig orange Recess shade - GW Carroburg Crimson Drybrush - Squig Drybrush - light rust pigment powder. I then deepened some shadows with druchii violet Hope that helps 👍🏻
Yeah, I’m still on the hunt for the perfect replacement Unfortunately, I’ve not found one yet The best I’ve found so far is Vallejo’s desert dust pigment but it’s not as pale yellow as the FW one was
@BrushstrokePaintingGuides Thanks for the reply. That's the problem I was having when looking for a replacement as well, I'll have to give the one you recommended a try. Great video as well BTW.
No, I didn’t seal the mdf before applying the filler. I’ve never had any warping problems with bases so far. You are certainly safe with bases up 40mm diameter. For bigger bases, you’re absolutely right, there could be a risk of warping. If you’re concerned, then it never hurts to seal mdf before working with it 👍🏻
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides agreed, planning to put together a diorama for a Kings of War army, thank you so much for the great step by step tutorial! Cheers!
no problem, let me know how you get on. I think you'll be fine with regards warping, filler doesnt contract much to be fair, it's one of the reasons I like to use it for basing :)
Long story short, is because they slot into display movement trays I started using for my army years ago. There is absolutely no reason why you shouldn’t just use the standard plastic GW ones
Mine ended up a lot flatter in terms of paint job. I didn't get the same gradients as you did. Probably need more sepia or a stronger light colour on the zenethal highlight Still looks good but just British beach wet sand than sandy desert
Haha fair enough. Yeah, there’s always a bit of tweaking in order to get the right amounts. Sounds like you need to up the level of shade in order to boost the contrast. I’m sure you’ll crack it though 👍🏻
No problem. OK, plastic minis and bases are made by injecting molten plastic into moulds. When the plastic cools and the two halves of the mould open they don’t want the plastic to stick to the mould, so they spray the moulds first with release agent which stops the plastic sticking. However, that release agent also stays on the plastic pieces too and if you don’t wash it off it can stop paint etc sticking to the plastic and cause no end of problems. Now, you’ll hear lots of people say “I’ve never had a problem” and “release agent is only an issue for resin” But its not true. All injection moulding uses release agent and it is always good practice to wash with soapy water just in case. Hope that makes more sense now 👍🏻
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides Ok awesome explanation! Thank you very much sir! So then this is an issue for bases and models? I’m about to prime my first ever minis. Some Ork Boyz. Should I wash them now that they are ready before applying the brush on primer? Oh and secondly. About the bases in particular from this video. Why not just wash the plastic bases with soapy water instead of using the fibreboard? You said the cracked earth stuff in particular can be affected by the release agent so are you just making doubly sure it lasts the test of time?
Yes, always wash minis and bases before priming. It’s generally easier to just wash the whole sprue rather than single parts and then you know everything is free of release agent. In terms of this base, yes it was washed too, as part of my standard preparations Hope that helps
I’d love to hear what you thought of the video, was it helpful, enjoyable, easy to follow?
Please drop a comment below 👇
Remember, for discount Warhammer minis and paints don’t forget to check out this link:
bit.ly/2Zmbd3u
If you did like enjoy this video please help support the channel and
SUBSCRIBE
ua-cam.com/users/brushstrokepaintingguides 🙂
best one i have seen yet.. thank you
@@brianlazouche2015 thanks man 🤛🏻
Very good, it’s given me inspiration to create a theme of sand encroaching on an industrial necromunda base.
Great video as always!
Is there any good alternative powders since they don't make the forge world ones anymore?
Just to give a little tips with crakle paints, or crakle fillers, i put a layer of primer on my base before applying it, for either mdf or plastic base, it help it to bond better on the base and limit the flakes going off :)
Or you can scratch up the base surface before applying too.
For plastic bases it’s important to wash off any release agent, as that is the biggest cause of flakes dropping off
my dad just got his old tallarn 40k troops and wanted to make desert basses, I think I found the perfect video for him! It looks AMAZING!
Sounds good
Let me know what he thinks 👍🏻
This looks amazing! Great tip with the all purpose filler - looks so much more realistic and scale accurate than all those acrylic texture pastes out there, love it!
Finally! I’ve been waiting for this one since you posted the picture on Reddit!
That’s exactly what I was coming to say
Haha no problem
You are by far the best painting content producer out there. Thanks for the vid as it is so helpful and beautifully done as well
Thank you, really great to hear you enjoy my videos
Best desert basing tutorial I found by far! Great work. Thanks for helping me base my minis!!
Thank you! Really glad you found it useful 👍🏻
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides definitely. Clear steps and well presented. Going to try have a little spin of snow being on the sand which could be a mess but we will see how it goes!
This is the best sand base I've ever seen
Thank you, really glad you like it 👍🏻
Just wanted to say thank you for this guide - I adapted it to make some badlands-looking bases for a bunch of gnolls I'm going and I'm really happy with how they came out. :)
love the tones you get! I was expecting some pinks used from the preview
Thank you! This is what I've been imagining but didn't know how to make it a reality, turns out you did it 3 years ago.
Thank you
So glad you’ve found what you’ve been looking for 👍
Extremely wonderful, i was headache about how to craft the base for my Monster hunter boardgame and Warhammer Tombking armies, and here i found your video, impressive! work so well on my miniatures, very easy to understand,
thank you
I'm loving the idea of this whith a white/blue color scheme to give it an ogor feel
That would be very cool.
Give it a go and let me know how you get on 👍🏻
Have asked for an Ash Wastes Necromunda squad for Christmas as something different to paint - these bases will be perfect! Thanks!
Yep, saw this online and glad to see the tutorial now! I find crackle paints sometimes flake off but yours stayed on nicely even during dry brushing. Great result!
Thank you
The biggest cause of crackle paint flaking off is the surface its painted on.
A couple of tricks to try, plastic bases benefit from being washed first, as I mentioned in the video.
If you still have problems, prime you base first. It’ll give a better surface for the crackle paint to bond with
The video on thinning really changed my ability and, to be honest, confidence in brush painting. Finding all of these others has my eager to to get to painting. Cheers!
That’s so great to hear.
The thought my video has helped you is all I could ask for
Really glad you’re enjoying the rest of the channel too. 👍
Wow! Absolutely brilliant, I will make my bases for my army exactly like this! Thanks a lot!
Thank you. Really glad you enjoyed the video and it’s inspired you to try it for yourself 👍🏻
Please let me know how you get on
Love to see a snow/ice base. I’ll check out your other vids.
Ignore me… I found the snow/ice one… lol
Been watching a few of your videos, they are all great! Especially the consistency of the explained details you keep giving is exceptional. :)
Thanks for these videos.
Cheers!
Thank you. really glad you're enjoying the channel.
There's plenty more exciting content to come, so stay tuned :o)
Excellent guide for realistic looking sand. Love it!
Thank you
I found you through Instagram and I am happy I did!! You have some awesome base en miniature ideas. Verry therapeutic, keep going.
That’s so great, thank you very much.
I’m really glad you found the channel and are enjoying the videos.
Please do spread the word and tell anyone who will listen to watch too 🤛🏻
I have never done a base before, and this looks fantastic. I think I will try this for my Star Wars legion T 47.
Basing is so much fun!
It’s really creative and gives you a chance to set the scene for your minis and even tell little stories.
Please do let me know how you get on with this guide and if you have any questions, just ask 👍🏻
Great work! Gonna use this for some Imperial Assault bases!
Thank you, glad you found it useful.
Let me know how you get on 👍🏻
Amazing. Dry brushing pigment powder is new to me. I will have to try it out
Thank you. The pigment manages to give a soft dry finish which seems to match sand and still be appropriate for the scale
Awesome! I need to do some gladiator area bases, and the spackle tip is awesome. Thanks for the video.
A1 work dude, can't argue with that end result, looks super natural!
Thank you, really kind of you to say 👍🏻
This was a great instructional video. Everything was very clear, thanks!
Thank you, really glad you enjoyed the video 👍🏻
This was a big help with my latest project thanks.
That’s awesome man
Really glad to hear it was useful
Please help spread the word about my channel so I can make more vids 🤛🏻
definitely going to use this approach on my bigger bases. Cheers.
Nice one! Let me know how you get on :D
That's fantastic work done here! I know what I'm going to do this weekend 🙂
Thank you. Let me know how you get on 👍🏻
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides Don't worry, I will make a shout-out/mention on facebook and instagram 😉
Excellent idea and it looks great. My one critique is that when placing a model they will look like they are floating on top of the dune unless they are only put on the crackled ground. Placing a rough spot where the base of the mini is would help the appearance of the model sinking in. The colors are great and I'll definitely use the ideas here.
Thanks for watching.
You’re right, this video is just the process and recipe for making the base.
Each base needs to be made for the mini it will belong to and the sculpting of the sand needs to reflect the mini standing on it (in it)
I tend to sculpt the base while the mini is unpainted so I can position it where I want and sculpt around the feet.
I then remove the mini and paint up the base.
Hope that makes sense
"... rocks and skulls and things..." Grim Dark 101 :D That's a beautiful looking base.
Sums up all my basing
Rocks and skulls and things 😀
This was a great idea, thank you.
Thanks man
You’re really motoring through my videos I see. 👍🏻
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides yes, I am moving through them and getting a lot of tips as well. Soon, I will sort all the videos in ascending date order and watch them all.
Breathtaking...
Thank you sir 🙏
Brilliant to follow.
Only issue is that I started doing it for my Steel legion.
I've done 12 so far, only 80+ to go!
Great tutorial, I hope to see more in the future.
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it and I have plenty more videos planned so stay tuned 👍🏻
Really nice video mate! I struggle with bases so will definitely give this a try!
Thank you
Please do let me know how you get on 👍🏻
Great work buddy, glad you made this video- definitely saving for future use!
Thank you, you’re very welcome
Awesome video and happy to say u have everything for it already at home
Thank you, glad you found it useful
Excellent video - Going to have to steal this for my Slaanesh army!
thank you. They would look great with a Slaanesh army, please send me pics if you do :)
This was very useful! Thanks for sharing this.
Really impressing!
Thank you 🙏🏻
Fantastic video! This what what i needed to finish up the base for my Valkyries. Going for a desert canyon theme.
Thanks!
So simple and amazing! thank you!
Thanks for watching. Glad you found it useful 👍🏻
Absolutely fantastic. Wish I found this sooner
Thanks man. Hopefully you’ll find it useful in the future 👍🏻
As someone who's chosen the thousand sons as their first army, thank you thank you thank you for this guide!
I love thousand sons! Great choice 👍
Really glad you enjoyed the video and will find it useful
Looks great
Thanks for watching and checking out my channel
Glad you enjoyed the video 👍🏻
Looks very nice
Thank you
Thank you very much for sharing this tutorial with all of us! I look forward to giving it a go myself once I have some free time! :D
You’re very welcome. I hope it works well for you
This is amazing, keep the good work up.
Thank you 👍🏻
Now I wish I hadn't glued my model to the base first, rooky mistake.
Oh and also amazing video thanks!
I'm gonna give these a go for a my steel legion, hopefully I can get them looking half as good. Cheers!
Epic looking base ! Can’t wait to give it a crack myself haha good to see others using the artis opus dry brushes they are amazing
Thank you.
Let me know how you get on.
The opus drybrushes are very nice. I’m a big fan of using soft makeup brushes for drybrushing. The opus brushes give the advantages of the soft makeup brush but with the extra control of a artist brush
Did you give it a go? How did it turn out?
@@caldoesstuff7290 I was going to but I got court up doing lava bases with grey knights haha was thinking it might looking good with death guard
@@KillyBones lol fair enough, I’m going to try this with a desert themes Stormcast army
@@caldoesstuff7290 that sounds amazing good luck legend yewww
Effective tutorial man! Congrats on your growth!
Thank you and thanks for checking out my channel 👍🏻
Stellar work, as always :) Thanks!
Thank you
Fantástico!! Muy buen trabajo, gracias
Beautiful work
Really really nice! 🧙🏻♂️
Thank you 👍🏻
Great video as always!
Hello BPG - great video very helpful, do you need to use a cork base? Cheers Liam
Stellar work!
Thank you
How do you attach a model onto this base? Do you use super glue or pinning? Also how do you make sure that the model fits (in a natural position)?
For this style of basing I always attach using pinning.
Supergluing might be ok for a display piece but if you’re planning on gaming then pinning is a must.
The best way to ensure the mini will fit naturally on the base is to test position it whilst the filler is still a little soft.
Then you can indent the sand slightly and provide a nice effect of weight on the mini.
When the base is full dry and painted you can use the indents to position the mini again 🙂
Really good tutorial 👍🏻
Thank you. Really glad you liked it and I hope you find it useful
Awesome video 🤙🏻
Thanks man
Glad you enjoyed it
Nice base. Will copy these ideas.
But how do you add the model on top? Pin it, superglue, or goes plastic glue work?
Thank you, glad you found it useful.
To attach the mini you will need to pin it yes. Plastic glue won’t work at all.
Superglue would only stick to the surface paint, and likely peel off.
You may get away with a very light resin mini, but I wouldn’t risk it and so I just pin them to be sure
i am new to your channel, great tutorial, thank you. Any tutorial for lava river in future?
Firstly, welcome to my channel. Appreciate you checking it out 👍
Lava base would be a nice video to do.
Are you wanting the sculpting of it or just the painting recipe?
Both case would be great if you show
Thank you
Do you reckon brush priming the black risks reactivating and messing up the hardened spackle?
Ok I went ahead because I’m impatient, and for everyone who wonders : you can totally prime the black with a brush as long as you let the whole thing dry overnight. Just go at it gently. Not even a speck of spackle on my brush after priming 10 bases with it. Did not tear out any of the crackles either.
Sorry, only just saw your question.
As you’ve already discovered the answer is really just time. I try and leave mine (like you did) at least overnight and that seems to harden the spackle enough to allow brushing on it etc.
Glad it worked out for you and thanks for watching 👍
I'm new to your channel, that's a like and subscribe earned chap! Very informative. I like to use milliput or greenstuff for building up bases as filler is brittle and can crack, but the colours are what I was after! Thank you.
Thank you and welcome to the channel.
Totally understand your concerns about filler. I’ve had different brands be a bit brittle before. I’ve found that mixing in some PVA glue can resolve that and make it far more robust.
If you’re happy with milliput or greenstuff then that’s cool. I’m a huge believer of finding what works best for you.
I love milliput too, great product
Hi, can you tell me something? At the end of the washes is already applied after the matte layer of varnish ?
The lacquer is used after the "bone dust".
A thin application of a matte varnish was applied all over the base, right at the end. This secures the weathering powder in place and stops any running off.
What a great video my good sir. I got a question? Due to plan on painting a admech kataphron or Skitarii(maybe in the forgeworld of deimos)?
Thank you, so great to hear you liked it. I have some great videos planned for 2021 which might well include Sulphurhounds 😉
lovely work
Very nice.
Thank you
This is the best desert base tutorial that I have ever seen, and I would like to replicate it, but I have serious trouble getting forge world bone dust and the testors dull coat.
Are there any working replacements for those?
Thank you. I've actually been in touch with ForgeWorld as I didnt realise their weathering powders weren't on their website anymore. They have come back and said they're sorry but they have been permanently removed :(
Which is a real shame. Sooooo, I've been trying to find a suitable replacement for bone dust for you.
This looks similar (from the pic)
bit.ly/32NFNEn
but I've ordered some to see if it's a close match, so I'll let you know.
And in terms of the Testors Dullcote, any matte spray varnish will work to be honest. Just make sure you test it on something scrap first to make sure you're happy with the finish. The matter the better for this
Hope that helps
could you do arrid conditions too please (as in slighlty less dry, maybe more of a transition to other conditions and boards)
Thanks for the suggestion, I try and make my bases suitable for the minis I'm painting. So, these desert bases are intended for some camel riding desert warriors.
I would say you could achieve the look you're after by following the steps of this video but changing the colours for more browns / tans and then having more tufts to show there's signs of life breaking through.
I'll probably end up painting a mini which needs that sort of basing soon enough, so stay tuned :)
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides I'm also thinking tank tracks in hefty cracked dried mud, I have the GSW tank tracks roller on order. Also dried river beds (more a scenery thing I know, have you thought about branching out?), tumble weeds and craters. Ive been sculpting some small craters out of green stuff on my bases but theres no scources for that sort of scale that I've come across (is it to basic to require explanation?)
Two years later, finally using this for my Indomitus Necrons.
Cool base, but do you put a mini on it? What does it look like on there?
I did indeed add a mini to it
Here it is
instagram.com/p/Cr1JubOt_hs/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
Any recommendations for a "Crackle Paint" other than Citadel?
I'd rather not mortgage my house.
Nice instructional
Thanks man 🤛🏻
Can you show us how to prime with an airbrush? I used Vallejo black and white primers and there were splotches everywhere :c i didn't thin it or anything
Filming airbrushing is a bit tricky for me but I can see what I can do.
I do thin mine a little with a touch of water though, if that helps. And I would recommend using grey rather than white. I find it a bit smoother
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides I'll take you up on the grey. What ratio do you recommend for airbrush priming? 1 part water to 4 parts primer?
I'd like to try this as snow + thundra/ice/permafrost
Go for it!
please let me know how you get on. I’m sure it’ll work really well 👍🏻
Great Video! QUESTION: Does crackle paint need to be put on smooth surface or can it be put over a sandy resin base?
Thanks man
You can apply crackle paint on any surface man. Just as long as it’s solid and clean from release agent you shouldn’t have a problem at all
Im wondering how fine that spackle is (spartel in danish)? It has put me off trying a few techniques already, but I think im ready to take the leap after seeing this video.
Go for it! Take that leap.
I find spackle is pretty fine, you can smooth it beautifully
How do you attach the model once the base is complete? Bit of a noob to all of this 😅
maybe a stupid question but how are you sticking your models to this after ? especially models with thin legs and low contact
Not a stupid question at all.
The answer is I pin them. Drill a small hole in both model and base and glue a metal pin in between to bind it all together.
The exact method does depend on the model in question though. For models like you describe, a bit more planning is needed at the pre-painting stage.
I will test fit everything and make sure I know how I want to fix them once painted. If the contact point is going to be poor for the model, I will try and add more support using rocks and terrain to increase the contact points between model and base. Horses for example, can have weak legs, especially when only sculpted to be running with one on the ground. I'll add a rock to bridge the gap to another leg so that it can help support it too.
Hope that makes sense
Thanks for that reply it makes complete sense ! Really helpful thank you for taking the time :)
Thank you for the amazing tutorial! I have a question about glueing a model to the base! Since now there's dune with a slope, how do you glue models to such bases?
Thank you.
So, when you're making bases it is important to consider the model that will be sitting on it and to make the base with that in mind. Consider where the contact point(s) will need to be, does it need dents in the sand for example?
If the model does need to be indented into the sand to show weight etc, then I recommend you gently press the contact points of the model into the wet filler in the position you will be wanting it to be in the end. A good tip is to wet the model contact points so that the filler doesnt stick to it and you get clean indents.
When you're ready to add your model to the base I recommend you use pinning. This is where you drill a small hole in the base and in the bottom of the model where they need to join. Then glue a small piece of metal rod (pin) into both making for a really strong connection. For my pins I usually use cut up paperclips.
Simply trying to glue your model to the base without pins is not a good idea as you are really only gluing the model to a layer of paint and it will likely break off in time.
Hope this helps
Thanks for watching :)
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides thanks! I always pin my models but this will be my first time making a base that's not flat so I was curious :) put some water on the model's feet, and gently press it on the filler to create a dent. Got it! Thank you so much! I look forward to try this one out! I'm afraid I don't know what it's called in my country, so I'm thinking of using a basing paste from Vallejo. Have you tried it? Do you think it'll be much different from the filler you used?
This Is Amazing man,i was thinking about doin a Red desert base (Baal) for my BA.which colours would you suggest for a red sand after priming in Grey?
Thank you
How red do you want to go?
I did this base a while back, is that the sort of thing you’re after?
instagram.com/p/BrdOxO6ne-1/?igshid=jwdmb1q7qq2z
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides yup, this is awesome,but i would like to make it like this one with a little more red sand
@@mattiatancredi7352 absolutely, so just change the paint colours to:
Base coat - GW Squig orange
Recess shade - GW Carroburg Crimson
Drybrush - Squig
Drybrush - light rust pigment powder.
I then deepened some shadows with druchii violet
Hope that helps 👍🏻
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides Will definitely try this way,thanks a lot!
Waiting for more awesome tutorials,cheers
@@mattiatancredi7352 no problem, let me know how you get on.
I have a lot of new content on the way, so stay tuned
Airbrushing the washes also works
yes it does, thats true
Time to work on some desert animals and creatures
cool video
Thank you, really glad you enjoyed the video. Stay tuned, as I have a lot more exciting content planned 👍🏻
So, apparently bone dust doesnt exist anymore. Do you have any recommendations for alternatives?
Yeah, I’m still on the hunt for the perfect replacement
Unfortunately, I’ve not found one yet
The best I’ve found so far is Vallejo’s desert dust pigment but it’s not as pale yellow as the FW one was
@BrushstrokePaintingGuides Thanks for the reply. That's the problem I was having when looking for a replacement as well, I'll have to give the one you recommended a try. Great video as well BTW.
Did you seal the MDF base prior to applying the filler material? Asking because I’d be concerned with warping?
No, I didn’t seal the mdf before applying the filler. I’ve never had any warping problems with bases so far. You are certainly safe with bases up 40mm diameter. For bigger bases, you’re absolutely right, there could be a risk of warping. If you’re concerned, then it never hurts to seal mdf before working with it 👍🏻
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides agreed, planning to put together a diorama for a Kings of War army, thank you so much for the great step by step tutorial! Cheers!
no problem, let me know how you get on.
I think you'll be fine with regards warping, filler doesnt contract much to be fair, it's one of the reasons I like to use it for basing :)
Will the wall filler give that grain texture or is that from the weathering dust?
I honestly can't tell
It’s a bit of both really.
The filler has a subtle texture and the weathering powder picks it out and because it’s dry adds to the effect
So good! #minipainting
thanks man
Like and comment to appease the almighty algorithm 😁👍🏼
Haha thank you
It may not mean much to UA-cam but it means a great deal to me 👍🏻
why do you use these wood bases instead of the GW plastic ones?
Long story short, is because they slot into display movement trays I started using for my army years ago.
There is absolutely no reason why you shouldn’t just use the standard plastic GW ones
thank
you're welcome. Thanks for watching
Mine ended up a lot flatter in terms of paint job. I didn't get the same gradients as you did. Probably need more sepia or a stronger light colour on the zenethal highlight
Still looks good but just British beach wet sand than sandy desert
Haha fair enough. Yeah, there’s always a bit of tweaking in order to get the right amounts. Sounds like you need to up the level of shade in order to boost the contrast.
I’m sure you’ll crack it though 👍🏻
I’m not following about plastic bases. I’m a noob. What are release agents and why do they flake off?
No problem.
OK, plastic minis and bases are made by injecting molten plastic into moulds. When the plastic cools and the two halves of the mould open they don’t want the plastic to stick to the mould, so they spray the moulds first with release agent which stops the plastic sticking.
However, that release agent also stays on the plastic pieces too and if you don’t wash it off it can stop paint etc sticking to the plastic and cause no end of problems.
Now, you’ll hear lots of people say “I’ve never had a problem” and “release agent is only an issue for resin”
But its not true. All injection moulding uses release agent and it is always good practice to wash with soapy water just in case.
Hope that makes more sense now 👍🏻
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides Ok awesome explanation! Thank you very much sir! So then this is an issue for bases and models? I’m about to prime my first ever minis. Some Ork Boyz. Should I wash them now that they are ready before applying the brush on primer?
Oh and secondly. About the bases in particular from this video. Why not just wash the plastic bases with soapy water instead of using the fibreboard? You said the cracked earth stuff in particular can be affected by the release agent so are you just making doubly sure it lasts the test of time?
Yes, always wash minis and bases before priming.
It’s generally easier to just wash the whole sprue rather than single parts and then you know everything is free of release agent.
In terms of this base, yes it was washed too, as part of my standard preparations
Hope that helps
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides thanks f-r the info!
Epic
Here in the USA it's called "freedom putty"
Is it really? Well, that’s a new one on me.
Cool, thanks for the comment 👍
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides Lol no I'm just joking. It is called spackle, but I like what you guys call it; makes more sense
@@RavensGazedwb haha I did wonder 🤣
Yeah, Filler just makes more sense