I usually apply a coat of watered down PVA glue on top of sand, too. That way the sand gets sealed and won't brush off easily when painting it. Of course, this also means you'll need more dyring time.
I love how Duncan thins out his glue just like he does to his paints. "Now we are about to eat come chips. But first we're going thin down the tartar sauce with some vinegar like this. Now you're ready to eat some chips."
Great tutorial - solid basing advice is always welcome - for far too long i avoided doing any basing for fear of making a mess of a finished model, but really adds tonnes of character!
This was a great tutorial. My main comments having tried it out would be: (i) the base wasn't as saturated as I expected (looked more like a damp iron rich soil that a dry arid landscape) and (ii) the pva I used to hold down the sand kept reactivating (exposing the base beneath). I solved the first problem by applying a vibrant watered-down red-orange contrast paint liberally over the base until the it really popped (in my case I used Nuclear Sunrise from Army Painters' speed paints). For the latter, I would recommend a second prime to properly adhere the sand to the base
The base looks great Duncan! The paints give the base a nice muted red color and the weathering has a nice dusty appearance to it. Thanks for sharing this.
Duncan you are such a good instructor. Excellent results and I really liked how you blended the Martian Ironearth in by using water. Excellent. I will definitely do this for my Adepticus Mechanicus.
Hi Kyle. We have plenty of basing tutorials on our website (duncanrhodes.com) similar to this one. In fact we have grasslands, snow, urban rubble, forest floor to name but a few. I'm pretty sure we would have you covered 😊
This is the third time i was searching for something specific and your channel shows up :D you can read minds in the future which is next level psyker stuff
Really great video Duncan! Another option is to use pigment powder on the base and feet of the miniature. It creates a really great dusty effect. Cheers!
@@Outrage82 I find leaving the model as is after applying the pigment looks the best. It makes it really dusty. If you are going to be gaming a lot and need to bind the pigment there are a few brands that sell pigment binder. I've used Vallejo Pigment Binder. it's okay. I would like to try Pigment Fixer Enamel Fluid by AK interactive or Mig Pigment Fixer. I think they may work better as they are enamel / solvent based and run into cracks, flow well. I would wear a mask or use in well ventilated area if using enamels. Cheers!
Thanks a lot for the tutorial! This style of base will look beautiful as a contrast to the deep green of my budding Dark Angels force. Is it possible for you to do a miniature varnishing tutorial? I know that preserving a splendid paint job is an area of concern with many painters and I'm sure an experienced gentleman such as yourself would have some amazing tips and tricks to share with the painting populace. Cheers!
Thanks Warzombie73. We actually did a full tutorial for the Academy (duncanrhodes.com) on an Urban Rubble base...it proved quite popular which is always nice :-)
The lore for my Skitarii is that their actual forge world is an ocean planet, with densely packed underwater forge cities reminiscent of Rapture from Bioshock. The planet itself, however, is protected by its fortified moon where most of the Skitarii and even Titan Legions are based, with only specialist amphibious forces planetside. So I've been wondering about doing lunar bases for my first, normal Skitarii and their equipment, and I've been looking for ideas/tutorials. Though I could just follow the Martian tutorial and paint it grey, it seems a little boring that way. Once I've got some experience under my belt and some more material, I plan to come back and kitbash proper underwater Skitarii for planetside forces.
A bit of a late question (so it will likely get buried), but have you tried using inexpensive makeup brushes for drybrushing? They're a good deal softer than most drybrushes, but also often a lot larger.
Excellent tutorial for a great looking barren terrain/Mars surface base. Only 2 questions, apart from the paints you used that are listed in the video description what undercoat you use before starting to add details to the base? Do you have a preferred brand you like to use more? Thanks in advance.
3 роки тому
Exactly what I needed! It is nice to be able to comment on your videos now Duncan! :)
One question, probably stupid but, you said that after undercoating I'd have to do my miniature next but... what does prevent me from painting the miniature without a base and finishing the paint of the base first before then as the final step gluing the finished miniature onto the finished base? I would imagine it would be easier to reach everywhere this way
Hi Sergey. For the video tutorial, we don't put a miniature on the base so you can clearly see what we are doing and the miniature doesn't obstruct your view. Generally, we assemble the miniature on the base and then undercoat it as one. Once the miniature as been painted, we do the base. We like to glue items like rocks or skulls on first and then we add PVA glue carefully, dip it in sand and shake off the access and then add whatever colours we want to the base 😊
@@DuncanRhodesDRPA Hi, thanks for the quick reply :D But I was more meaning to ask if there is a reason *why* we undercoat the mini and base as one and not first paint both and *then* glue them together as I at least think it would be easier to reach everywhere like this, sorry for the misunderstanding
Great video Duncan! I am about to start painting my mortarion miniature but I am doing him in a Black and Bronze scheme similar to the black legion. I wondered if anyone (including Duncan) had any ideas of how to highlight black armour, I was thinking grey but I'm not entirely confident on how to approach it
Grey is a good choice. Start with a darker grey then move up to a mid-tone grey. If you want some spot highlights this go up to a lighter grey. Blue can also work as a highlight colour too :-)
duncan... stop reading my dream journal you... I was thinking at work today " hmm I would like to do Baal themed bases for my BA models.. need to look up guide for that when I get home " Oh.. Duncan has uploaded.. oh nice just what I needed :)
Very nice to see how you managed to do this base. Is there a trick for making the crackle paint to stick on the base when drybrushing? It sometimes flakes off when I try it, so I have stopped using them for now. Don't feel I am very hard with my brushes either.
Question: If I wanted to make a copper-based desert planet, rather than a iron-based desert planet like Mars, would it be possible to paint over the Martian Ironearth with something like Nihilakh Oxide or other similar greens?
I guess the only way to know if that'll work is to test it. I bet you could get some great results! Maybe try a lighter crackle paint base and experiment 😊
Hi Duncan, thank you for all your amazing videos. question. I used this method for my base, however, finished it off with a pigment powder to give it that dry dusty feel - looked amazing. however, after i let the pigment fixer dry, it now has that flat look, almost satin look. should I just not use fixer and just see how it goes? I use them to game, but not often. hope you can help. thank you mate.
Hi! thanks for your amazing video tutorials! I wanted to ask you where can I find, and if you can recommend a particular brand, a sand for the bases like the one in the video? thank you so much!
Love this video, I always refer to it when I'm basing my AdMech forces! Just curious though, where do you get the sand from? Been looking for that nice texture where it a bit rocky/gritty.
AT the end of vidéo when u brush the legs of the droid , i think the effect ils better if done with pigments i prefer this method . It's my opinion , what do u think about ? Thanks for this cool vidéo
Absolutely love this. I will use this for my Crimson Fist Primaris army. Now IF one added grass tufts to this scheme, what colour tufts would you recommend?
Thanks for this great tutorial! One question: after applying Reikland Fleshshade my whole earthy surface becomes very glossy, looking unnatural...applying a matte varnish doesn't bring back the matte dusty look and feel of the ground.. :(
Unfortunately, some of the new Citadel Shades dry with a gloss finish which is not ideal. Have you tried using an Ultra matte varnish like the one from AK Interactive?
@@DuncanRhodesDRPA Unfortunately I don't have it at hand but I'll try to get some and test it. Meanwhile I've solved my problem with adding some orange/brown pigment powder of Vallejo, bringing back the dustiness but also slightly brighten up the red ground a bit...works for me :)
@@nulatlas2137 I believe the question was more whether he put the ironearth everywhere or not. he started saying that he only put it on the areas with the gaps, blended to the sand, and on certain portions of the rocks, but then after the cut it looks like he put it everywhere.
THAT LOOKS AWESOME! :) Just a little question. :S Would you paint and build your part two of the Base around the finished minature or would you just build the base complete and once both are done you put the mini with some super glue on top of that? :)
It's not as silly as it sounds. Applying a second layer of PVA glue on top of the sand can be a good way to seal it in to prevent it from wearing off over time.
Amazing video! I have a question though...I like to paint the rim of my bases as close to the terrain as possible. I think it looks better without the stark black circle when looking at the model on the table. I haven't found a color that matches close to the Citadel Martian crackle paints. Any recommendations?
It's not mentioned, but did you varnish the base between any of the stages? Its been my experience that if you don't varnish (after the crackle paint is dried), then there is a strong risk of chipping once you start drybrushing.
@@Outrage82 I drop some airbrush thinner into the base. But since the thinner makes the pigments a little bit darker, when it dries I apply a second coat of pigments again on top of it. As the thinner becomes sticky when it dries, the second layer of pigments does not fall
This is a great guide, but I have one question: what kind of stones do you use, big ones? Can i buy them somewhere? I don't know English enough to find such information in the comments myself, but I have no idea how to search for such stones on the RU Internet. At least I will go through the ENG options.
Question for duncan or anyone else, would you suggest painting the base and the model separate from each other then gluing them on after they are both finished and dry? If so, what would be the best way to paint the model without needing to touch it too much?
I have made models in this way and it is successful. As long as you keep your hands clean you shouldn't have any problems. For example don't scratch your head as natural grease from your hair will then be on your fingers and get passed on to the model and believe me I've known those that have done this. I keep my hands clean and dry and never had a problem from holding the model while painting. Hope this helps.
@@seanmeadows129 Totally does! Quick follow up question, is it a good idea to remove some paint on the models feet and the base so it sticks better, or is that not really an issue?
@@thespookymage6294 Always make sure any surfaces you wish to glue together are free of paint or any other substance, this will ensure you get the best possible bond. Just a tip incase you don't know, I always wash all models with a washing up liquid before I start them this will remove any mould release agent used in production.
Great tutorial, one thing to note. I've followed the guide step by step and you're base seems to much more Orange / Red? I can't seem to replicate the saturation.
I feel like Duncan is a Bob Ross for nerds.
Accurate as fuck.
Even better because he's still on the mortal coil.
I have said this to my gaming group too. So relaxing
@@carlosbarreales8752 No way. That title goes to Goobertown Hobbies. Duncan is awesome, but Goobertown really has those Bob Ross vibes.
just place a little happy ork here oh doesn't he look happy 😊
I usually apply a coat of watered down PVA glue on top of sand, too. That way the sand gets sealed and won't brush off easily when painting it. Of course, this also means you'll need more dyring time.
This is very helpful! Please do more basing tutorials, like a forest, snow/ice, volcano landscape, and so on. That would be neat
I’d love to see a Duncan Rhodes snow base.
#twothindrifts
Check his website
@@agent5333 can't buy anything :(
I love how Duncan thins out his glue just like he does to his paints. "Now we are about to eat come chips. But first we're going thin down the tartar sauce with some vinegar like this. Now you're ready to eat some chips."
Thanks mate, very helpful. Love the extra step with the atmospheric weathering on the miniature.
No problem 👍
really good video love the geonosis idea
Glad you enjoyed it Ben 😊
Could you do a video on some D&D models? I’d love to see how you’d tackle a red dragon
Or an Illithid. Any of the iconic D&D monsters from wizkids would be great to see you tackle.
look guys its Tiamat the dragon its the only thing Venger is scared of
Wait there's a DRAGON MODEL?!?!
@@jacksonandrews8714 have you not heard of the wizkids models?
@@jacksonandrews8714 I work at a medium sized hobby store and I can tell you that there are ALOT of dragon models for dnd. And yes they are by wizkids
Great tutorial - solid basing advice is always welcome - for far too long i avoided doing any basing for fear of making a mess of a finished model, but really adds tonnes of character!
I've not seen that dry stippling technique before. Such high quality, yet approachable content.
You are an excellent educator!
Thank you Jim. We are glad it helps.
This was a great tutorial. My main comments having tried it out would be: (i) the base wasn't as saturated as I expected (looked more like a damp iron rich soil that a dry arid landscape) and (ii) the pva I used to hold down the sand kept reactivating (exposing the base beneath). I solved the first problem by applying a vibrant watered-down red-orange contrast paint liberally over the base until the it really popped (in my case I used Nuclear Sunrise from Army Painters' speed paints). For the latter, I would recommend a second prime to properly adhere the sand to the base
Basing tutorials are amazing! Perfect pace, and very easy to follow!!! Looking for more amazing videos, amazing job Duncan and team!!!
I'd love more basing tutorials! I think a rocky highland basing tutorial would be great.
First! Best mini painting channel!
yay for being first. And thank you :-)
Thanks Duncan!
Someone who says 1st and is actually 1st...
*Impossible*
I'm so happy I haven't based my Adeptus Mechanicus yet. This is perfect!!! Thanks Duncan.
What a great video for basing! This is similar to how I do my Admech bases but without the dry brushing! Thanks Duncan, keep up the good work!
You ever think about how some of us take real rock glue them onto a base and then paint them to look like real rocks?
The base looks great Duncan! The paints give the base a nice muted red color and the weathering has a nice dusty appearance to it. Thanks for sharing this.
No problem John, glad it helps 😊
Duncan you are such a good instructor. Excellent results and I really liked how you blended the Martian Ironearth in by using water. Excellent. I will definitely do this for my Adepticus Mechanicus.
Fantastic, I’d love to see some more of these like grassland or plains, I have so many bolt action models to get to basing
Hi Kyle. We have plenty of basing tutorials on our website (duncanrhodes.com) similar to this one. In fact we have grasslands, snow, urban rubble, forest floor to name but a few. I'm pretty sure we would have you covered 😊
Please do more basing tutorials. I enjoy your techniques and it would be great to see more base styles.
my admec army really apreciates this tutorial, keep being an inspiration Duncan :)
Absolutely love this. More basing techniques please!
Fantastic. Thank you. I agree with previous commentors, tutorials on forest, snow, volcano etc would be awesome.
Even though I can do bases I still learnt extra tips here. Thank you for these insights Duncan. Much appreciated.
Always love your videos! It takes such basic stuff and you do your magic to make it look much more advanced
I used the Citadel one you had for 40K for my 133rd Lambdon Lions. Good to see a difference and I’ll use this next
This is the third time i was searching for something specific and your channel shows up :D you can read minds in the future which is next level psyker stuff
Level 100 boss basing techniques
Wow, thank you Reven R. We hope it helps 😊
@@DuncanRhodesDRPA your welcome, this is obviously help me on how to basing
Really great video Duncan! Another option is to use pigment powder on the base and feet of the miniature. It creates a really great dusty effect. Cheers!
how do you bind the pigment to the base and legs?
@@Outrage82 I find leaving the model as is after applying the pigment looks the best. It makes it really dusty. If you are going to be gaming a lot and need to bind the pigment there are a few brands that sell pigment binder. I've used Vallejo Pigment Binder. it's okay. I would like to try Pigment Fixer Enamel Fluid by AK interactive or Mig Pigment Fixer. I think they may work better as they are enamel / solvent based and run into cracks, flow well. I would wear a mask or use in well ventilated area if using enamels. Cheers!
Amazing tutorial Duncan, I will use this for my Tau army with some tweeks here and there. Please consider doing more Basing tutorials
Hi. We have done many on our website (duncanrhodes.com) covering a large manner of basing techniques 😊 Glad you enjoyed this one
Really loved the video and would love to see more basing tutorials!
Thanks a lot for the tutorial!
This style of base will look beautiful as a contrast to the deep green of my budding Dark Angels force.
Is it possible for you to do a miniature varnishing tutorial?
I know that preserving a splendid paint job is an area of concern with many painters and I'm sure an experienced gentleman such as yourself would have some amazing tips and tricks to share with the painting populace.
Cheers!
Wow that looks great! I would love to see you do an urban rubble base!
Thanks Warzombie73. We actually did a full tutorial for the Academy (duncanrhodes.com) on an Urban Rubble base...it proved quite popular which is always nice :-)
@@DuncanRhodesDRPA Thanks I just joined!
This is amazing! Exactly what I needed, thank you!
That's an awesome looking B1 battle droid! Will you ever potentially do a video showing how you've painted it?
Duncan I'd love to see some Middle-Earth, the new Eomer especially!!
The lore for my Skitarii is that their actual forge world is an ocean planet, with densely packed underwater forge cities reminiscent of Rapture from Bioshock. The planet itself, however, is protected by its fortified moon where most of the Skitarii and even Titan Legions are based, with only specialist amphibious forces planetside. So I've been wondering about doing lunar bases for my first, normal Skitarii and their equipment, and I've been looking for ideas/tutorials.
Though I could just follow the Martian tutorial and paint it grey, it seems a little boring that way. Once I've got some experience under my belt and some more material, I plan to come back and kitbash proper underwater Skitarii for planetside forces.
Any progress on that? :)
What did you end up doing?
Farsight Enclaves approved.
A bit of a late question (so it will likely get buried), but have you tried using inexpensive makeup brushes for drybrushing? They're a good deal softer than most drybrushes, but also often a lot larger.
Thank you for this, it is exactly what I need for Legions Imperialis.
Excellent tutorial for a great looking barren terrain/Mars surface base. Only 2 questions, apart from the paints you used that are listed in the video description what undercoat you use before starting to add details to the base? Do you have a preferred brand you like to use more? Thanks in advance.
Exactly what I needed! It is nice to be able to comment on your videos now Duncan! :)
Happy to help!
Kick ass! I would love a snow / ice tutorial!
Awesome, I would love to see your take on how to do snow bases
Fantastic! Been looking for a good red earth scheme for my new necron army
Fantastic!! I think I will apply this to my Bloodthirster base.
I’m planning to use this for my desecrator knight and I can’t wait. Thank you so much
One question, probably stupid but, you said that after undercoating I'd have to do my miniature next but... what does prevent me from painting the miniature without a base and finishing the paint of the base first before then as the final step gluing the finished miniature onto the finished base? I would imagine it would be easier to reach everywhere this way
Hi Sergey. For the video tutorial, we don't put a miniature on the base so you can clearly see what we are doing and the miniature doesn't obstruct your view. Generally, we assemble the miniature on the base and then undercoat it as one. Once the miniature as been painted, we do the base. We like to glue items like rocks or skulls on first and then we add PVA glue carefully, dip it in sand and shake off the access and then add whatever colours we want to the base 😊
@@DuncanRhodesDRPA Hi, thanks for the quick reply :D But I was more meaning to ask if there is a reason *why* we undercoat the mini and base as one and not first paint both and *then* glue them together as I at least think it would be easier to reach everywhere like this, sorry for the misunderstanding
Thanks very much for this video, I’m hopefully getting some admech skitarii rangers for Xmas and this’ll be perfect, thx
Thank you, for the content. this is super helpful and inspiring.
Glad you enjoyed it 😊
Awesome base exactly what I was looking for.
I'm curious about your painting posture. Does your back hurt? Do you have any tips for a painter who struggles leaning over the models?
Great video Duncan! I am about to start painting my mortarion miniature but I am doing him in a Black and Bronze scheme similar to the black legion. I wondered if anyone (including Duncan) had any ideas of how to highlight black armour, I was thinking grey but I'm not entirely confident on how to approach it
Grey is a good choice. Start with a darker grey then move up to a mid-tone grey. If you want some spot highlights this go up to a lighter grey. Blue can also work as a highlight colour too :-)
@@DuncanRhodesDRPA thanks a lot Duncan! Much appareciated. Big fan of the channel, please keep up the excellent work
Art attack flash backs, lol the chills.
Chills in a good way right? 😂
@@DuncanRhodesDRPA nostalgia chills. Thanks for the great video.
duncan... stop reading my dream journal you... I was thinking at work today " hmm I would like to do Baal themed bases for my BA models.. need to look up guide for that when I get home " Oh.. Duncan has uploaded.. oh nice just what I needed :)
I can see some Tharks hanging out on these bases. Well done as always, Duncan.
Very nice to see how you managed to do this base. Is there a trick for making the crackle paint to stick on the base when drybrushing? It sometimes flakes off when I try it, so I have stopped using them for now. Don't feel I am very hard with my brushes either.
Hi Erik. It could be that the dry brush you are using has stiff bristles. We haven't encountered this problem ourselves...yet lol
@@DuncanRhodesDRPA Thanks for the tip, will try with a softer brush next time.
Hey Duncan, great vid! I'd love to see your take on an ice field basing
Question: If I wanted to make a copper-based desert planet, rather than a iron-based desert planet like Mars, would it be possible to paint over the Martian Ironearth with something like Nihilakh Oxide or other similar greens?
I guess the only way to know if that'll work is to test it. I bet you could get some great results! Maybe try a lighter crackle paint base and experiment 😊
When I saw the way you applied the pva glue I thought you were going to say to apply two thin coats!😁😃😂
He absolutely did. Your mortal eyes simply couldn't comprehend it
Hi Duncan, thank you for all your amazing videos. question. I used this method for my base, however, finished it off with a pigment powder to give it that dry dusty feel - looked amazing. however, after i let the pigment fixer dry, it now has that flat look, almost satin look. should I just not use fixer and just see how it goes? I use them to game, but not often. hope you can help. thank you mate.
Awesome looking base!
Hi! thanks for your amazing video tutorials! I wanted to ask you where can I find, and if you can recommend a particular brand, a sand for the bases like the one in the video?
thank you so much!
Wooo 158th! Awesome tutorial Duncan!
Love this video, I always refer to it when I'm basing my AdMech forces!
Just curious though, where do you get the sand from? Been looking for that nice texture where it a bit rocky/gritty.
AT the end of vidéo when u brush the legs of the droid , i think the effect ils better if done with pigments i prefer this method . It's my opinion , what do u think about ?
Thanks for this cool vidéo
The best mars bases around
When duncan dials your basing up to 10, using the exact same paints and textures. Well now I have some ideas to improve my technique.
Great tutorial, thank you! Sorry the noob question, but: how did you fix the mini to the base?
Absolutely love this. I will use this for my Crimson Fist Primaris army. Now IF one added grass tufts to this scheme, what colour tufts would you recommend?
Anything but green! Seriously though, a muted colour like brown or even darker tones would look good.
keep these wonderful videos coming Duncan :-)
Just got to love it even if it makes my effort look pathetic 😁😍
Superbe and simple
Thanks for this great tutorial! One question: after applying Reikland Fleshshade my whole earthy surface becomes very glossy, looking unnatural...applying a matte varnish doesn't bring back the matte dusty look and feel of the ground.. :(
Unfortunately, some of the new Citadel Shades dry with a gloss finish which is not ideal. Have you tried using an Ultra matte varnish like the one from AK Interactive?
@@DuncanRhodesDRPA Unfortunately I don't have it at hand but I'll try to get some and test it. Meanwhile I've solved my problem with adding some orange/brown pigment powder of Vallejo, bringing back the dustiness but also slightly brighten up the red ground a bit...works for me :)
I'll be copying this but wasteland style, same technique but more brown colours :)
I dont get it, at 5:46 the Doombull Brown was quite dark, and after the cut it all red, did you paint everything with Martian Ironearth?
Doombull turns like a very redish brown after it dries, its a wierd paint.
@@nulatlas2137 I believe the question was more whether he put the ironearth everywhere or not. he started saying that he only put it on the areas with the gaps, blended to the sand, and on certain portions of the rocks, but then after the cut it looks like he put it everywhere.
THAT LOOKS AWESOME! :)
Just a little question. :S
Would you paint and build your part two of the Base around the finished minature or would you just build the base complete and once both are done you put the mini with some super glue on top of that? :)
Very nice video! Thanks!
Remember to apply two thin layers of glue for the best coverage 😂😂
Not gonna lie, got me in the first half :)
It's not as silly as it sounds. Applying a second layer of PVA glue on top of the sand can be a good way to seal it in to prevent it from wearing off over time.
Great video, is there anything you would do differently in terms of showing the difference in scale if this was applied to titanicus bases? Cheers
Amazing video!
I have a question though...I like to paint the rim of my bases as close to the terrain as possible. I think it looks better without the stark black circle when looking at the model on the table. I haven't found a color that matches close to the Citadel Martian crackle paints. Any recommendations?
To my eyes, Tuskgor Fur is the same colour as Martian Ironearth etc. What do you think?
Hey Duncan. Where did you get the slate rocks? For some reason it’s hard to find good ones (for me at least). Great tutorial as always!
raid peoples front drives. look for big bits you can crush / break down
Yay. Finally a proper technique for mars, not like GW's tutorial where it's too flat and plain.Thanks
Justo lo que buscaba!
It's not mentioned, but did you varnish the base between any of the stages? Its been my experience that if you don't varnish (after the crackle paint is dried), then there is a strong risk of chipping once you start drybrushing.
When i get some money someday, i may try to kitbash some army with this method of basing. Really been meaning to play red faction again.
I may play Black Legion but dammit I love Mars, thanks for this guide
Stuff ordered, using this for my legio mortis titans!
That was really helpful! Thanks!
Have you tried dark red ocre pigment from Vallejo? It is a great tool for mars bases
+1
how do you bind this to the base after applying pigment?
@@Outrage82 I drop some airbrush thinner into the base. But since the thinner makes the pigments a little bit darker, when it dries I apply a second coat of pigments again on top of it.
As the thinner becomes sticky when it dries, the second layer of pigments does not fall
@@joan500x nice! will try!
Great topic! Ice worlds and Tron word next
This is a great guide, but I have one question: what kind of stones do you use, big ones? Can i buy them somewhere?
I don't know English enough to find such information in the comments myself, but I have no idea how to search for such stones on the RU Internet. At least I will go through the ENG options.
Its just garden slate sone from a garden or DIY shop. I hope that helps...
Dang! Looks good!
Question for duncan or anyone else, would you suggest painting the base and the model separate from each other then gluing them on after they are both finished and dry? If so, what would be the best way to paint the model without needing to touch it too much?
I have made models in this way and it is successful. As long as you keep your hands clean you shouldn't have any problems. For example don't scratch your head as natural grease from your hair will then be on your fingers and get passed on to the model and believe me I've known those that have done this. I keep my hands clean and dry and never had a problem from holding the model while painting. Hope this helps.
@@seanmeadows129 Totally does! Quick follow up question, is it a good idea to remove some paint on the models feet and the base so it sticks better, or is that not really an issue?
@@thespookymage6294 Always make sure any surfaces you wish to glue together are free of paint or any other substance, this will ensure you get the best possible bond. Just a tip incase you don't know, I always wash all models with a washing up liquid before I start them this will remove any mould release agent used in production.
Any good tips on where u can get nice flat rocks?
Prais the Omishia - Roger Roger
I shall now start a Mechanicum army as i always wanted to.
Can you paint games workshops Middle Earth minitures? By the way love the vids! Keep it up!
when you glue the miniature to the base, do you use plastic glue or super glue?
We generally use super glue 😊
Great tutorial, one thing to note. I've followed the guide step by step and you're base seems to much more Orange / Red?
I can't seem to replicate the saturation.
How do you glue the model to the base. If you use super glue does it do that strange thing where it makes the plastic go white.