Thanks for tuning in team! Sorry about the weird cut at 3:12 (FCP shortcuts 🙄) HERES WHAT I SAID IN THE GAP - “ Well, if you’re finding that you’re constantly ‘stuck in the lip’ as you take off or that there is an excessive feeling of being pulled back up the wave as you transition from paddling to popping up - then it could be a sign that your board does not offer you enough paddle power to get into waves efficiently.”
A good surfer has ridden many different types of boards. short boards, fishes, Retro's and trying quad fins to twin fin and thrusters. Also buying a board from Sa is alot better than EU boards
I did this when I first started surfing, just thought shorter meant more 'fun' and 'cool'. I had to get real with myself and my ability, I was intermediate at best. What changed me was seeing some dude with dreadlocks, on a huge crusty longboard, catch 20x more waves than me in a session 😂 he had a big grin from ear to ear. I bought the biggest board I could find on ebay the next day and never looked back. I only use shortboards when the waves are big, for anything else I longboard/funboard. Call me a kook, call me whatever, surfing for me was meant to be all about fun but unfortunately I got caught up in image. It happens. Once you drop your ego with most activities in life the fun comes back. Cool video bro
I am a 20 years of experience surfer on long and short. I’m not a surf instructor but I have helped beginner adults learn how to surf. At the beach where I start people out (long rolling waves off of point or mild reef break, Doheney or San O In So Cal) I think the use of a longboard with lots of volume is the key to success. With respect, I think the message of this video has a sweeping and unnecessary confirmation bias towards short boards. It really depends on the age of the beginning/intermediate surfer and where they are learning to surf. I have seen kids dropped off at the beach every day after school with a short board and within a few months of hanging out with their friends they figure it out pretty well. In these instances the size of the board is super critical to their success but just like learning how to ride a bicycle the younger you are the easier it is. The further someone is from that youthful age where the brain is hyper adapted to quickly picking up a new activity the more I advocate for learning and staying on a long board possibly never transitioning to short boards. The shorter the board the more aggressive the wave has to be and the more aggressive the wave is the more experience of the surfer needs to have in order to succeed. Yes nose diving is a thing with surfing and on a longboard it can be one of if not the biggest challenges to get around but that doesn’t change when you’re on a shorter board! There are so many more dynamics of having to learn on a short board. The forwards and backwards balance is just as critical on a short board but the side to side, wave position is much more critical on a short board, finding the right wa is much more critical on a short board and dealing with a crowd of other experienced surfers is much more difficult for a short border. If you live next to a beach break and it’s hard to find a mild point or reef break and all you have is a two door sedan then yeah you really do need to man up and just take it on the chin until you figure it out but in my opinion the easiest and best way to learn how to surf for a beginner to intermediate adult is on a longboard with an abundance of volume at a spot that has long rolling waves where other long borders Surf. It’s like this race car drivers do not start in an F1 cars they start and go jarts. Long boards are the go karts of surfing short boards are the F1 cars at surfing. Even a beginner short board is still much higher performance and needs much more experience than a longboard so it will inevitably have a higher learning curve.
Volume is your friend, and being honest about your ability when purchasing a board or ordering a custom is very important. Its just to easy to get sucked into the look of a wafer thin board and forget to consider if you can actually catch a wave on it.
People also need to understand how length, width, and thickness all work together. If one of these factors doesn't match your size or skill level, you'll have a lot of difficulty. I made the mistake of buying this beautiful 6'7" Rusty (very narrow, very think, very high performance, but long for your average waves). I had so much trouble catching waves and when I did catch a wave, I felt a 1/2 second behind on all my maneuvers. The board just didn't respond well because I wasn't going fast enough to match the design features of the board. I had a very frustrating session. I took the board back and traded it is on a board about 6' long, thicker, and a little wider. Still a fun high performance design but a lot more float and a lot more responsive on smaller waves. I had a great session on it. I caught waves easily and the board was really fun to ride in a wide range of conditions (from knee high to over-head). So don't just assume a longer board will be easier to ride. If its designed to ride 10 ft Mexican barrels, and you're surfing waste high surf most the time, get a board with more volume (thicker, wider, and a little shorter). As mentioned, one of your first clues will be how well it paddles, duck dives, and catches waves. Then when you make your first turns or try to gain speed down the wave, you'll know if it's a good match. It doesn't take long. I knew on my first wave my 6'7" Rusty wasn't the board for me. That board belonged in Hawaii or Mexico with a pro riding it on huge waves.
I have just started surfing and have an 8' soft top which a friend lent me. I initially purchased a 7' soft top and the difference is astounding. I have to paddle so much harder and get my pop up and feet perfect on the 7' otherwise i fall. I surf a beginner beach really as its my local. I see so many people out in the surf learning on shortboards. For an entire 3 hour session they don't pop up nor catch even one wave and in that time ill catch bucket loads. I have progressed insanely fast in just 3 months with the 8'. I nearly gave it away like so many others do cause of the wrong friggin board!
I've been making boards since I started surfing and one of the first boards I made was a wafer thin shortboard and taking it out in crappy conditions. Definitely didn't help progress my surfing ability. Great content and presentation.
I'm the third one. Using a skipper 6'6 only catching about 40%. Very frustrating, so many missed rides. I'm 6'2 167lbs I am thinking about a 7'2 for my next board. Not sure where to go.
Maybe just get a board that is wider to make it easier to paddle. You can stay in the similar length of 6’6 or even go shorter if the board is wider with less rocker.
When I started I went from a 70 liter 7 foot board to a 27.7 liter al merrick 6 foot board and after a week I was already taking 90% of the waves I paddled on
I always surfed short boards and tbh it was my fitness and timing that I needed to fix once those clicked my little boards starting catching waves like it was nothing
I have 5 boards from 9ft to 6'5". I mostly use my 8' and a 7'8" which has more rocker (but quite a few litres less volume than the 8) when things get a bit hollow above 3ft. I use my 7ft high volume, ahem, 'shortboard' when I'm feeling gun hot and its above 4ft. I haven't touched my 6'5" in 4 or 5 years and I haven't been in a massive overhead wave for even longer.. Point being, if you're not a great surfer, then pick the board and the waves to suit your needs. We're not practising for Pipeline, just more waves, right?
I’m not sure if you ever hit this topic… I started surfing in Late March/ April. A thing that made a huge impact on my surfing (currently at a 6 foot board with lots of volume) was to be honest with myself. Identify problems that you have and attack then consciously. Example? I was having a hard time with popups because I would grab my rails as I stood up. Three days of consciously attacking this problem has made a huge impact on my popup and smoothness. Identify one problem per session and attack it consciously. Don’t overwhelm yourself and most importantly have fun. This is a marathon, not a sprint.
I’m now 14 - 6,1 and I’ve been taking surfing serious for 2 years and I’m riding my 5,11 shortboard “pro” shape with only 27 litres every session if the waves are good enough. And I find this board really chill and ez now. I started with an 7,0 egg , then went to a 6,0 softech soft top and now on that 5,11
I just moved back to the coast and got back in the water yesterday for the first time in almost 10 years. It was the most discouraging, frustrating session of my life. I was never more than intermediate at best, but I could hold my own in a crowded lineup. In an empty lineup I could catch every that came to me. I'm 5'8" and rode a 5''6" fish in my prime. I'm 25 pounds heavier now and out of shape, so i bought 5'8" RNF. I was stoked on the board and was trying to decide if I should ride it twin fin or twin with a trailer, blah blah blah.... I paddled out and I couldn't even catch a wave without floudering on my knees and ankles while popping up. It was like my muscle memory was still there but my strength and and extra weight were killing me. Anyway, your videos have been very encouraging. Fitness is definitely key! I'm gonna be out in the water every day no matter what the conditions.
I'm relearning everything atm on a 9'1 longboard. I grew up surfing everyday from 16 to 30 years old. Riding fishboards, mini mals. 10 years off and now I can't even do the pop properly. So frustrating. Lucky I'm stubborn. Keep going!!!
My best advice to learning surfers is to borrow/rent/try boards any way you can. The more time you get on different boards at different breaks, the better understanding you’ll have of what different shapes do in different scenarios. I still believe that there’s never really too big of a board and always tend t overshoot volume no size rather than underestimate and have a bad day not catching or riding. Also, hit up shapers and see if they’ll let you try boards. Sometimes they have loaners you can try before buying. If they don’t, it would be smart. If I could try a board before ordering, I’d order any and every board from that shaper.
I've never paid attention to the details for the first 20 years I surfed. Once I started messing with the numbers and set ups, it was punts all day. Board type size volume fins and fin set up makes all the difference
So I’m an intermediate/beginner only surfed for a year and I started on an 8ft board. I bought myself a 6.5 yesterday with about 45 ltrs, thought I’d made a mistake but I surprised myself when I caught my first wave on it and I could turn on a dime. Thanks for the helpful videos from a sunburnt Pom living down under 🤙
Your discussion about pearling took me back to the early 60's as a kid long board riding. We had no one to take lessons from or really get much advice - a board was a board we thought - whatever we could afford. We would take off, run to the tail to take the drop then back up to trim the board. Pretty laughable now and as you might suspect not a lot of successful waves. Occasionally we lucked out with an angled takeoff that usually worked. Ah the old days! Thanks for more great tips!
Talk about video timing! I've just been through this entire dilemma and finally have ordered myself a decent sized fish with volume & rocker that will hopefully fit my beginner level
first board i got was a 9'0 off the rack, worked okay but the second one i had made 9'0 24"wide and as thick as the blank would allow. I rode everything from 10 footers to 10 inchers. while i agree with most of what was said i think wave shape has a lot to do with it as well. the steeper the wave the better rider you will need to be.
My first board was a full on thruster, narrow, thin, and not for beginners. I didn’t have a mentor and it took my FOREVER just to get my pop up. Coulda saved months.... great channel bruh. Subbed.
So true. I'm guilty of this myself! Board design has been a key part of this as well for me. I learned to surf on an board designed for maxed out Pipeline for like 9 months. Then when I moved to California, I couldn't catch anything on it. Then I got a fish with less volume but more width and started catching everything. Moral of the story, matching the board to the waves is huge haha.
Great advice! Thank you. I fit the last category. Not surfing consistently due to work and family. Another factor not covered is weight change. I started surfing in 2006 at 160lbs. Now in 2020 I'm 195lbs. My old Bic 7'6 Mini-Malibu used to be too buoyant is now starting to submarine. I need a lot of push and hard paddling to get into a wave. Time for a board change. 😊
So true! I surfed for 10+ years with the wrong board and didn’t really progress because I didn’t go out as much as I needed to because it wasn’t that fun. I got a Ben Gravy 8’ this season and it has been the best summer ever!!! I surf everyday if I can and have made so much progress.
I'm contemplating an 8 foot soft top I have a 9 and 7 glass. So why you ask. I'm having trouble walking back up the hill from the water especially with 9 foot . The weight with my back is an issue. I'm thinking the soft will be a lot lighter.
First off.. I am sorry for the length of this message, but I need help!🙏 I surf high performance shortboards, I was pretty good when I was 16/17 but I was out of the water for quite a few years and have lost my touch. I bought a new board when I got back in and I fear I’ve bought it like how I used to buy my boards, it’s a 5’9 and is 27 clitres and I have grown massively since I was young, I am now 6’1/6’2 and heavyish! I am struggling on this board because it’s just too small for me. I am now torn whether I should sell it and buy a board the same height as me with more litres I have found one that is 6’1 and 32.2 litres but I’m worried that my turning progression will be at a loss with a board that’s theoretically “harder to turn” than something smaller and thinner. What should I do man??!😫🤣
I’ve used a wrong surfboards for years in the early 2000’. Wish I had good pieces of info like Kale away gives us that time. Changing my board improved my surfing exponentially. Now I am a below average skills, but very happy surfer
Been surfing since I was 14, and did this on my first Nica trip. I bought a brand new CI on the way to the airport, but it was under volume for me. I surfed nearly perfect Popoyo, and struggled. I couldn't figure out why, until I borrowed a slightly thicker board, same shape and size. Like night and day, no joke.
It's my humble opinion that what is missing in surfing is the ability to try before you buy. Not necessarily the exact board you expect to purchase but a variety of different sizes and shapes. Buying a board isn't like buying a different flavour of ice-cream, it's a bit of a commitment. If you pick a board that is less pleasing than your last board you take a step backward and that's not what it's about. It's not just an issue for your first surfboard or even your 10th, it's that question (would I improve with another board?). Sponsored surfers often get to try a bucket load of boards. This is a huge advantage and likely projects them from good to amazing very fast. I often watch Stab in the Dark board comparisons and think what a privilege that would be. Good vlog 👍
I started surfing 6 days ago and I got a 6' board. I'm really mad that I didn't find videos like this earlier cuz I really should've gotten a wavestorm.
This is great. I have surfed for nearly 40 years. Work got in the way for a while and I put on a few KGS. Lost fitness. When I did find time, I was too heavy for my favourite board. Fitness was gone. It nearly broke my spirit. Love your work KB.
sometime about little not so obvious details . ive got one i wasnt aware about my position on the board . because i was pretty confortable and able to catch various type/sizes of waves but sometime i felt like i dont catch that "push" from the wave at the moment i pop up . and i was wondering if the board do really match my abilities/weight . and last week ,one of the surf instructor that i see everyday at my spot with his class of kids told me that i was i little bit too backward , making the tip of my board being a tiny bit too high from the surface and show me how it should be . just 10 cm forward on my position and make a huge difference on how smooth the board catch the waves
I,v always rode bigger boards. I can't even paddle a short board. I,m a rotund short fellow and longboards are so much mellower on the take-off and very forgiving in small to medium clean waves. They give you more time to pop up, they feel stable under you and you can without doubt catch more clean faces if your timing and position is correct. I,v been surfing for 30+years and my emphasis is on fun rather than ego and high performance. If your fit enough to shortboard then it makes sense to progress in performance. If you want to have fun and STILL want long down the line rides but your not as fit as you were or your starting out, a longer, wider board with big volume is the way. Big board+ Small clean waves= lots of fun rides.
I couldn’t agree more with the assessment of folks riding boards too advanced for them! I see it all the time in PNW. Most need more time on a longboard/fun board and just learning how to paddle, catch waves etc...
Ive grown up with riding a mini mal, enough rocker, enough lengh to walk a bit, i dont think i even need a shortboard and ive been surfing for over 7 years now. I am able to drop in on some cornish 6ft stuff but also maintain long rides at saunton or sand banks.
Tail gains control, narrow sinks more gaining control in fast hallow or big. Wide tail less control faster for small burgers. Swallow offer a bit of both. nose stays out of the way, pointer less volume to dig , wider more volume to catch waves. Soft rails slide, hard rails catch. Thrusters gain speed through turns single fins dont. Twin fins have less drag than a thrusters but slide out more. Quads and 5 finn's offer a bit of both. Bottom concave direct water through finn's creating a bit of drag but gaining control. Flat spots on bottom gain speed but loose control. Good for small burgers. Wide point below center gets you more vert, but harder to paddle and catch waves. Put some volume under your chest and you'll catch more waves. Also be careful, u cant ever have enough boards. It's very addictive. I have 12 and only ever ride 3. Bigger waves 7'6 pin tail Good waves 6'8 rounded pin both thrusters. And fun waves fat 5'8 wide squash quad. I'm 44 years old been surfing since 1987. Hope it helped ya
I have a 9.0, 8.0, 7.1 and 7.0.... I think I'm stuck on the 7.0 because of faster steeper waves but I have trouble turn this one. I might have to look for fat small waves to try my 9.0.... yes, I have not used my 9.0 and 7.1 :(
If you nosedive on all of your take offs, don't take a smaller surfboard!! Learn to not nosedive! If any, I'd recommend a bigger board! Same logic when it comes do doing turns: you can't turn your Longboard so you buy a shortboard, thinking turns will be easier? Yes, it will be easier to change direction on a small board. But a proper turn is more than just shifting the nose 30 degrees! Learn do real turns on the big board first! In the right spot at the right time with all the necessary bodily movements. Then learn to connect turns. Theeen you might have a desire for even tighter more radical Top down movement. Then borrow a shortboard and experiment..
As someone who loves riding a 9 foot tri fin longboard, the longboard is not necessarily the issue with the nose dive. It is the lack of rocker on most traditional longboards. On steep, late jackup waves it can be vital to take off at an angle. But besides that you should be able to take off and turn without issue if your longboard is shaped a little more aggressively. It makes it harder to catch the small waves early but it still works in small waves
Damn Kale! This is coming a week too late! I bought a new board last week and did weeks of research on my own, but on the flip side, I learnt so much about them! I've been following your channel for awhile and will get the guide now for the future. Thanks!
Ok feel good about catching 75-80% of the waves. Great benchmark. I’m 5’7’’ 150 and 48. Ride 26.5 to 30ish. Easier pt breaks like topanga and malibu are where I get these numbers. Rincon is more like 50%…faster and stronger currents…albeit only surf that break a handful of times per year even though it’s only an hour away.
I surfed the W coast of Vancouver Island for over a decade (till my health tanked) where there was excellent beach break. To me the kooks were ppl using the wrong board for the waves coming in to that break. Wave type is as crucial as your body type and weight when selecting a board. If you move to an area with relatively rounded, slower beach break a short board may not be the best choice except for longer period swell that breaks faster. Not if you want any time standing up and riding. I didn’t start till I was 33 and the surfers who impressed me most were the quality long boarders and the guys who had guns for the really big days so that’s the direction I went. However, to each his/her own.
If u need someone to explain fins likely your skill level could not tell a difference. Sorry to be blunt but spend your $ by taking off early and getting more water time in. It’s the Indian not the arrow.
@@5446moto no sorry bro bought the Merrick am larges for quad and the board is just stiff to turn don't wanna keep dropping large cash to just keep guessing on what fins to buy. Had to set it up as a thruster btw but I want more speed.
daniel rouw if you want more speed fins don’t make that difference, fins w more rake will offer more drive and a more upright fin will release earlier...speed comes from rocker volume and overall length generally and maybe the set up ...really depends on skill level and like the original reply said if you have to ask then you need more time in the water period. try a board w more volume first before asking about what fins will make you go the fastest. really kooky question for real bro seriously
Just a tip for everyone. Your next board should be in libtech construction. I got the lost x lib quiver killer 5'6. Great riding from knee high to head high & beyond. Also the most durable board I've owned. 🤙
Hit the nail on the head! Just baught a board, while it will still work later down the road 7'. I still need a 9 to 9'4" board. May even go 10'. Still I took it out and had no problem barrel rolling it, or catching waves/ foamy. It was a bit wobbly
Makes so much sense, I know those days where I’m being undergunned. Thanks for this. Also look down the line for the longboarding beginners! You go where you look
thank you so much, you underlined what I already felt. My personal mini malibu board is pretty big but as I’m still beginner/intermediate I sticked to it for a long time. Last vacations I rented a much shorter board with still a lot of volume and it was way better to handle for me due to the shorter size. I thought I wont do the same mistake as the majority and take a too short board but in my case it was the opposite:))
ok so maybe this doesn’t work but just curious. would it improve your paddling if you paddle around a pool on a skimboard for a while? because they have so little volume i’m wondering if that would help paddle power or not?
I think i always wonder especialy for beginners, HOW do you try boards with different shapes, volumes, fins to knowing what suits you best? Boards are expensive and i gues many people can't affort to buy different boards to have a variety of boards to choose from. especially if the boards are custom build for you, the shaper not always estimates correctly your skill level.
Some rental places have progression boards, both hard and soft tops. Just ask and see if you can take out a shorter board and see how it goes. Usually your progression goes from a soft long board to a hard one, and then after that try something thats like 6ft 6-7ft with a decent amount of volume.
I learned to surf on a shorty. It's not impossible, but you have to be ready, you have to understand that it's going to take a long Long LONG time to get used to, especially when learning to paddle. I found when learning to surf on "Short s#!t" you really have to have that "Never give up" mindset. Because you've litterally just trippled your progression time. That time will shorten as your progression catches up to the board you're riding. It will happen... but the learning curve is MASSIVE. Now, later in life I really want to try a long board or a softie. Never tried one but I hear good things. I think it would be far more "fun" to give it a shot. But I'm also scared that I'll like it way too much and my other boards might end up in the storeroom for longer than I'd like.
also...one thing you didn't mention is to spend 10-20 min looking into the sea to understand the swell, the speed and other factors. Not always a larger volume board is the answer. Sometimes you need something a bit faster...other times, begginer foam board it's just the most fun. I surf waaaay less than what I would love, so I use a foam boar a lot...and I tend to have a lot of fun. I don't give a crap what others might think.
I'm on board Broc, I used to be really caught up in shortboards. I still ride them when the surf is good, and have a great time. But the surf mostly isn't pumping. I've found blending shortboard shapes with other craft ideas can make every session so much more fun. Boards like the Sharpeye BV2, Mayhem RNFish, JS's Barrons, etc. will just transform small mushy surf into a playground!
I have been surfing for 1year now. I have started with an epoxy 7"6 surfboard. Now that i am able to stand and ride the wall of the wave I am looking to improve my surf one step further. What surfboard type and size would recomend to buy as my second surfboard? I get a surfbaord that allows me to start praticign basic surf tricks without compromising my surf progression. I'm 186m . 85kg surfing small / medium waves
What sucks about starting off on a bigger board for me (foam) is that I’m 5’2 and 43 kg is that the board is too big for me. Buttt I’m getting a new one so hopefully that’ll help me out
I am a new surfer, I surf only 7 time, and today’s wave is 2meter high, I want to ask, how to make the board head not insert in the water, when I surf on 0.9 meter high wave ,it never happens, but always insert when the wave bigger (by the way ,my board is 6’4. 47L) sorry my English is so bad
If you wanna catch lotta waves - just go thicker n bit longer than normal, and wave count will increase. All my personal board's range from 2 3/4" - 3 1/8" thick. But, I tend to pinch rail's down to hide the thickness on my shapes - with a few exception's. I gotta twin pin w boxy rail's I'm experiment n with. NP getting wave's at 5'+.... But on smaller sub 3' wave's I got my board felt a bit sluggish. So yeah, get enough board for sure! Good vid mate!
every board needs time to learn. The more time, commitment and difficulty, the more satisfaction and progress you will have. The easier it gets, the sooner you get bored and the less progress you make, the less training you need. There are those who use only a long 9 'in waves from 1' up to 12 '+ in hawaii, like those who use a fish 5'3 in mash up to 2oh + (ryan burch), those who use twin 7'9 in solid barrels (torren martin) ..... everyone has to do their own surfing and take it day after day in all conditions. Surfing has to be free not a french fries and beans marketing. A 45 liter board with a lot of rocker will be much more difficult to paddle and start than a 40 liter board with little rocker. Volume matters how it is distributed and especially how thick the rails are. A 7 'with a tight nose and tight tail will be like using a 6'2 round nose and big square squash tail. Fish can hold back your ride in small waves and flies, too much grip for beginners who have to learn how to generate speed. In windy and choppy conditions a board with a pulled nose will row much better and faster than a full round nose. So it's all relative, numbers and volume matter very little.
what size board shortboard should my daughter have if she is 30kg and 140 metres tall - note: she is very strong and surfs at an intermediate level? Thanks
I’m getting a bit bored of 8ft soft-tops because I am very landlocked so I only get to go surfing roughly once a year for the last decade, so I’ve gotten to an intermediate level but can’t do anything fun because I need an upgrade from hire-out foamies badly. Yes, it’s super easy to catch a wave and trim slowly along a wave with one but I can’t do any turns at all!
Kales lately I found my problem with catching waves, working on my paddling and finally found that sweet muscle memory where you are able to catch almost every wave. The problem is my take off. Every time I try to stand, either I face dive or can't have an angle and follow the waves. I tried with smaller and slower waves and i rode them pretty good, but as soon as the size and speed of the wave gets a little bit higher it seems that I totally lose control. What should I work on? What Do You Think could be the problem?
Sounds like you may have an issue with your pop-up timing and positioning your body at the point of transferring from prone to standing. Try give 2-3 extra power paddle strokes just before popping up and try make your transition from prone to standing as smooth, fluid and quick as possible. As soon as you are almost up, look in the direction you want to go, head horizontal to the beach. It might be as simple as you looking down at your feet or the nose area of your board. You might also be a tiny bit too far forward, so try to adjust your weight/balance until it is about 60% front foot and 40% back foot in the drop/pop-up, then shift to a more balanced position, depending where you are on yhe wave. Hope that helps. (Surfed 20years, surf coach for 2 years now).
good evening, very nice video, well done.. I'm 1.80 77-80 kilos, I've never surfed, now I'm thinking of starting.. what board i should buy? to use it later when I learn a little,, thanks
Great video, lots of info. I’m new to surfing, got a 8ft soft top and I’m 163inch tall. I’m fit, I paddle a lot, but don’t catch many waves, and a lot of time my nose dips into water. Suggestions?
Okay so I’ve been looking for the right board. My weight is 88 kilos, 88lb. What is your advice about length and volume? I’m pleased to hear something! Great videos!
I surf very rarely due to location (this need to change :p). But I found out that even very unfit, I can ride funboards of about 8'0 in size. I'm 6'2, weighting ~75Kg (so pretty lean). An alternative are very thick fish boards. I also bodyboard a bit first when doing a long surf trip as being able to use my legs to move makes quite the difference (people use their legs more in day to day life).
Mid length boards with a refined shape are THE SHIT! Most fun in all conditions. performance longboards are also hot! That's my opinion after 25 years of recreational surfing. Shortboards can be amazing when everything comes together: no crowd, medium size waves, well shaped hollow waves, channel that helps you to the take off, unshifting take off spot
I have small short boards that I started to struggle with due to putting on weight in between surf trips. I got a 6'7 catch surf foamy now and started enjoying surfing again and catching heaps more waves, just hard to duck dive on the bigger days.
My 52 yr old ass got back in the water after raising a family and bought a 6'2" blade. 700.00 to go out and get winded on the paddle out. I need a 6'6" quadfish with about 40 liters. Not my 34 liter board made for a 15 yr old. Young brain beat up body should never shop.
I never surf. Learning since last week. Roommate had couples surf boards. He said I can use funboard to learn go ahead. And I’m 5’11. Surf board is like 6 feet but still I’m doing okay. In few days I was able to stand on surfboard tho.
How do I differentiate between my paddling vs my "surfing"? I assume my surfing includes my take-off approach, pop-up, foot placement, pumping ability, etc? I feel like I paddle well. I've broken the 4 minute make in 400 long course freestyle plenty of times, and can still go under 58 seconds for a 100m. I've also won kneeling paddle-board races, my fitness is good. On a mid-length or fish, I pop-up smooth, foot placement is ok, pumping from the take-off is quick. On a performance shortboard I pop-up with my front-foot back, my back-foot forward, and I can't pump efficiently. Why?
Is it switching boards. Look down before u start pumping. Put your feet where they feels good. You can see Mason Ho do it at pipe when he's on a new board. That sweet spot can take a second.
I’m still quite certain too many people get caught up in sizes and volumes. Jamie O’Brien gets the barrel of his life on a 9’ soft top with 100L. It’s unreal the places he can fit that board. I tend to always shoot for more volume and size than needed just to get in early and have a longer ride. I’ve got boards ranging from 5’9” and kinda narrow to 10’2” and thicc and wide and foil boards and different foils and yet can nearly surf all of them at this break near my house. Some rides are just better and faster or longer than others. It’s my opinion that nearly any board will work with enough time and effort put into it. But when you go too small, it just requires more time and more effort and more skill and more wave power. Sooooo, I tend to always grab a longboard or midlength as it will surf nearly anything. But then there’s days I can’t put down my foil. It’s a 30L 4’ board and it absolutely blows my mind the waves I’ve gotten into.
I have an 8ft foam board but it's not the soft soft it's just not a hard board. I feel I can really get better at surfing but I struggle to turn with it. My parents think I dont need a new board,but I want to go forward w surfing as I love it more than them. I need advice from you to convince them, or convince me. Please can you help??
Thanks for tuning in team! Sorry about the weird cut at 3:12 (FCP shortcuts 🙄) HERES WHAT I SAID IN THE GAP - “ Well, if you’re finding that you’re constantly ‘stuck in the lip’ as you take off or that there is an excessive feeling of being pulled back up the wave as you transition from paddling to popping up - then it could be a sign that your board does not offer you enough paddle power to get into waves efficiently.”
Hi kale
Thanks for all the videos I’m learning a lot from you. How can I buy the buying surfboard guide ?
I don’t have instagram/Facebook
Thanks !! 🙏
Mor Osi thesurfersroadmap.com
I surfed for 30 yrs and haven't surfed for awhile now and still have my old 6'4 Potato chip, I think if I sit on it now I would need a snorkel.
😂
LOL
A good surfer has ridden many different types of boards.
short boards, fishes, Retro's and trying quad fins to twin fin and thrusters.
Also buying a board from Sa is alot better than EU boards
Haha
Give away please 😊😊
I did this when I first started surfing, just thought shorter meant more 'fun' and 'cool'. I had to get real with myself and my ability, I was intermediate at best. What changed me was seeing some dude with dreadlocks, on a huge crusty longboard, catch 20x more waves than me in a session 😂 he had a big grin from ear to ear. I bought the biggest board I could find on ebay the next day and never looked back. I only use shortboards when the waves are big, for anything else I longboard/funboard. Call me a kook, call me whatever, surfing for me was meant to be all about fun but unfortunately I got caught up in image. It happens. Once you drop your ego with most activities in life the fun comes back. Cool video bro
💯 me too!
Never related to anything more.
Even my old 7'2 funboa rd is not enough on most East Coast US days. Was undecided between a 8ft & 9ft🤔.....10 it is.
U spoke my mind
Me exactly!!!
I am a 20 years of experience surfer on long and short. I’m not a surf instructor but I have helped beginner adults learn how to surf. At the beach where I start people out (long rolling waves off of point or mild reef break, Doheney or San O In So Cal) I think the use of a longboard with lots of volume is the key to success. With respect, I think the message of this video has a sweeping and unnecessary confirmation bias towards short boards. It really depends on the age of the beginning/intermediate surfer and where they are learning to surf. I have seen kids dropped off at the beach every day after school with a short board and within a few months of hanging out with their friends they figure it out pretty well. In these instances the size of the board is super critical to their success but just like learning how to ride a bicycle the younger you are the easier it is. The further someone is from that youthful age where the brain is hyper adapted to quickly picking up a new activity the more I advocate for learning and staying on a long board possibly never transitioning to short boards. The shorter the board the more aggressive the wave has to be and the more aggressive the wave is the more experience of the surfer needs to have in order to succeed. Yes nose diving is a thing with surfing and on a longboard it can be one of if not the biggest challenges to get around but that doesn’t change when you’re on a shorter board! There are so many more dynamics of having to learn on a short board. The forwards and backwards balance is just as critical on a short board but the side to side, wave position is much more critical on a short board, finding the right wa is much more critical on a short board and dealing with a crowd of other experienced surfers is much more difficult for a short border. If you live next to a beach break and it’s hard to find a mild point or reef break and all you have is a two door sedan then yeah you really do need to man up and just take it on the chin until you figure it out but in my opinion the easiest and best way to learn how to surf for a beginner to intermediate adult is on a longboard with an abundance of volume at a spot that has long rolling waves where other long borders Surf.
It’s like this race car drivers do not start in an F1 cars they start and go jarts. Long boards are the go karts of surfing short boards are the F1 cars at surfing. Even a beginner short board is still much higher performance and needs much more experience than a longboard so it will inevitably have a higher learning curve.
Just ate some kale and broccoli ! It had monumental impact on my digestion progression !
That’s the first time I’ve realized his first and last name are both vegetables
Winning combo Lesbionest
But did you surf better?
Volume is your friend, and being honest about your ability when purchasing a board or ordering a custom is very important. Its just to easy to get sucked into the look of a wafer thin board and forget to consider if you can actually catch a wave on it.
People also need to understand how length, width, and thickness all work together. If one of these factors doesn't match your size or skill level, you'll have a lot of difficulty. I made the mistake of buying this beautiful 6'7" Rusty (very narrow, very think, very high performance, but long for your average waves). I had so much trouble catching waves and when I did catch a wave, I felt a 1/2 second behind on all my maneuvers. The board just didn't respond well because I wasn't going fast enough to match the design features of the board. I had a very frustrating session. I took the board back and traded it is on a board about 6' long, thicker, and a little wider. Still a fun high performance design but a lot more float and a lot more responsive on smaller waves. I had a great session on it. I caught waves easily and the board was really fun to ride in a wide range of conditions (from knee high to over-head). So don't just assume a longer board will be easier to ride. If its designed to ride 10 ft Mexican barrels, and you're surfing waste high surf most the time, get a board with more volume (thicker, wider, and a little shorter). As mentioned, one of your first clues will be how well it paddles, duck dives, and catches waves. Then when you make your first turns or try to gain speed down the wave, you'll know if it's a good match. It doesn't take long. I knew on my first wave my 6'7" Rusty wasn't the board for me. That board belonged in Hawaii or Mexico with a pro riding it on huge waves.
I have just started surfing and have an 8' soft top which a friend lent me. I initially purchased a 7' soft top and the difference is astounding. I have to paddle so much harder and get my pop up and feet perfect on the 7' otherwise i fall. I surf a beginner beach really as its my local. I see so many people out in the surf learning on shortboards. For an entire 3 hour session they don't pop up nor catch even one wave and in that time ill catch bucket loads. I have progressed insanely fast in just 3 months with the 8'. I nearly gave it away like so many others do cause of the wrong friggin board!
Here I am watching this in the middle of Texas
aharon suri same but that’s what bsr is for
Sameeee... and the weather in Port Aransas is trash all week
Your body is but your soul not so much.
@@natural_lawyea... helps skill but not the same.
I'm watching from Nepal, it's a landlocked country.
I've been making boards since I started surfing and one of the first boards I made was a wafer thin shortboard and taking it out in crappy conditions. Definitely didn't help progress my surfing ability. Great content and presentation.
I'm the third one. Using a skipper 6'6 only catching about 40%. Very frustrating, so many missed rides. I'm 6'2 167lbs I am thinking about a 7'2 for my next board. Not sure where to go.
Maybe just get a board that is wider to make it easier to paddle. You can stay in the similar length of 6’6 or even go shorter if the board is wider with less rocker.
When I started I went from a 70 liter 7 foot board to a 27.7 liter al merrick 6 foot board and after a week I was already taking 90% of the waves I paddled on
Can you do a video on how to surf bigger faster waves and why ur not ever making it out of those wall waves
I always surfed short boards and tbh it was my fitness and timing that I needed to fix once those clicked my little boards starting catching waves like it was nothing
I have 5 boards from 9ft to 6'5". I mostly use my 8' and a 7'8" which has more rocker (but quite a few litres less volume than the 8) when things get a bit hollow above 3ft. I use my 7ft high volume, ahem, 'shortboard' when I'm feeling gun hot and its above 4ft. I haven't touched my 6'5" in 4 or 5 years and I haven't been in a massive overhead wave for even longer.. Point being, if you're not a great surfer, then pick the board and the waves to suit your needs. We're not practising for Pipeline, just more waves, right?
I’m not sure if you ever hit this topic… I started surfing in Late March/ April. A thing that made a huge impact on my surfing (currently at a 6 foot board with lots of volume) was to be honest with myself. Identify problems that you have and attack then consciously. Example? I was having a hard time with popups because I would grab my rails as I stood up. Three days of consciously attacking this problem has made a huge impact on my popup and smoothness. Identify one problem per session and attack it consciously. Don’t overwhelm yourself and most importantly have fun. This is a marathon, not a sprint.
You did hit this topic :D
I’m now 14 - 6,1 and I’ve been taking surfing serious for 2 years and I’m riding my 5,11 shortboard “pro” shape with only 27 litres every session if the waves are good enough. And I find this board really chill and ez now. I started with an 7,0 egg , then went to a 6,0 softech soft top and now on that 5,11
I just moved back to the coast and got back in the water yesterday for the first time in almost 10 years. It was the most discouraging, frustrating session of my life. I was never more than intermediate at best, but I could hold my own in a crowded lineup. In an empty lineup I could catch every that came to me. I'm 5'8" and rode a 5''6" fish in my prime. I'm 25 pounds heavier now and out of shape, so i bought 5'8" RNF. I was stoked on the board and was trying to decide if I should ride it twin fin or twin with a trailer, blah blah blah.... I paddled out and I couldn't even catch a wave without floudering on my knees and ankles while popping up. It was like my muscle memory was still there but my strength and and extra weight were killing me.
Anyway, your videos have been very encouraging. Fitness is definitely key! I'm gonna be out in the water every day no matter what the conditions.
I'm relearning everything atm on a 9'1 longboard. I grew up surfing everyday from 16 to 30 years old. Riding fishboards, mini mals. 10 years off and now I can't even do the pop properly. So frustrating. Lucky I'm stubborn. Keep going!!!
My best advice to learning surfers is to borrow/rent/try boards any way you can. The more time you get on different boards at different breaks, the better understanding you’ll have of what different shapes do in different scenarios.
I still believe that there’s never really too big of a board and always tend t overshoot volume no size rather than underestimate and have a bad day not catching or riding.
Also, hit up shapers and see if they’ll let you try boards. Sometimes they have loaners you can try before buying.
If they don’t, it would be smart. If I could try a board before ordering, I’d order any and every board from that shaper.
I've never paid attention to the details for the first 20 years I surfed. Once I started messing with the numbers and set ups, it was punts all day. Board type size volume fins and fin set up makes all the difference
So I’m an intermediate/beginner only surfed for a year and I started on an 8ft board. I bought myself a 6.5 yesterday with about 45 ltrs, thought I’d made a mistake but I surprised myself when I caught my first wave on it and I could turn on a dime. Thanks for the helpful videos from a sunburnt Pom living down under 🤙
Hello there, How much do you weigh and how tall are you to use 45 lts?
@@ffuentes9265I can answer that as I just went through the exact same experience (going from 7'6 50 litres to 6'8 43 litres). I'm 175cm/80kgs
Your discussion about pearling took me back to the early 60's as a kid long board riding. We had no one to take lessons from or really get much advice - a board was a board we thought - whatever we could afford. We would take off, run to the tail to take the drop then back up to trim the board. Pretty laughable now and as you might suspect not a lot of successful waves. Occasionally we lucked out with an angled takeoff that usually worked. Ah the old days! Thanks for more great tips!
Thanks Jim!
Talk about video timing! I've just been through this entire dilemma and finally have ordered myself a decent sized fish with volume & rocker that will hopefully fit my beginner level
#4 -- If your board doesn't have a "No Fear" decal on it, it's the wrong board.
😂
When ever I'm climbing and I see someone with a No Fear tee shirt, I know that guy will get gripped on a 5.7 (easy climb) ha ha
This video is so Dad hahaha LOL LMAO
first board i got was a 9'0 off the rack, worked okay but the second one i had made 9'0 24"wide and as thick as the blank would allow. I rode everything from 10 footers to 10 inchers. while i agree with most of what was said i think wave shape has a lot to do with it as well. the steeper the wave the better rider you will need to be.
My first board was a full on thruster, narrow, thin, and not for beginners. I didn’t have a mentor and it took my FOREVER just to get my pop up. Coulda saved months.... great channel bruh. Subbed.
So true. I'm guilty of this myself! Board design has been a key part of this as well for me. I learned to surf on an board designed for maxed out Pipeline for like 9 months. Then when I moved to California, I couldn't catch anything on it. Then I got a fish with less volume but more width and started catching everything. Moral of the story, matching the board to the waves is huge haha.
Great advice! Thank you. I fit the last category. Not surfing consistently due to work and family. Another factor not covered is weight change. I started surfing in 2006 at 160lbs. Now in 2020 I'm 195lbs. My old Bic 7'6 Mini-Malibu used to be too buoyant is now starting to submarine. I need a lot of push and hard paddling to get into a wave. Time for a board change. 😊
So true! I surfed for 10+ years with the wrong board and didn’t really progress because I didn’t go out as much as I needed to because it wasn’t that fun.
I got a Ben Gravy 8’ this season and it has been the best summer ever!!! I surf everyday if I can and have made so much progress.
I'm contemplating an 8 foot soft top
I have a 9 and 7 glass. So why you ask.
I'm having trouble walking back up the hill from the water especially with 9 foot .
The weight with my back is an issue.
I'm thinking the soft will be a lot lighter.
First off.. I am sorry for the length of this message, but I need help!🙏
I surf high performance shortboards, I was pretty good when I was 16/17 but I was out of the water for quite a few years and have lost my touch.
I bought a new board when I got back in and I fear I’ve bought it like how I used to buy my boards, it’s a 5’9 and is 27 clitres and I have grown massively since I was young, I am now 6’1/6’2 and heavyish! I am struggling on this board because it’s just too small for me. I am now torn whether I should sell it and buy a board the same height as me with more litres I have found one that is 6’1 and 32.2 litres but I’m worried that my turning progression will be at a loss with a board that’s theoretically “harder to turn” than something smaller and thinner. What should I do man??!😫🤣
I’ve used a wrong surfboards for years in the early 2000’.
Wish I had good pieces of info like Kale away gives us that time.
Changing my board improved my surfing exponentially. Now I am a below average skills, but very happy surfer
Happy and fun are the main things!!
just purchased a fun board so bloody excited
Been surfing since I was 14, and did this on my first Nica trip. I bought a brand new CI on the way to the airport, but it was under volume for me. I surfed nearly perfect Popoyo, and struggled. I couldn't figure out why, until I borrowed a slightly thicker board, same shape and size. Like night and day, no joke.
🙌🏽
It's my humble opinion that what is missing in surfing is the ability to try before you buy. Not necessarily the exact board you expect to purchase but a variety of different sizes and shapes. Buying a board isn't like buying a different flavour of ice-cream, it's a bit of a commitment. If you pick a board that is less pleasing than your last board you take a step backward and that's not what it's about. It's not just an issue for your first surfboard or even your 10th, it's that question (would I improve with another board?).
Sponsored surfers often get to try a bucket load of boards. This is a huge advantage and likely projects them from good to amazing very fast. I often watch Stab in the Dark board comparisons and think what a privilege that would be.
Good vlog
👍
I started surfing 6 days ago and I got a 6' board. I'm really mad that I didn't find videos like this earlier cuz I really should've gotten a wavestorm.
Why did u buy a board after 6days
@@Gremmiez it was like $20
This is great. I have surfed for nearly 40 years. Work got in the way for a while and I put on a few KGS. Lost fitness. When I did find time, I was too heavy for my favourite board. Fitness was gone. It nearly broke my spirit. Love your work KB.
🙌🏽
sometime about little not so obvious details . ive got one i wasnt aware about my position on the board . because i was pretty confortable and able to catch various type/sizes of waves but sometime i felt like i dont catch that "push" from the wave at the moment i pop up . and i was wondering if the board do really match my abilities/weight . and last week ,one of the surf instructor that i see everyday at my spot with his class of kids told me that i was i little bit too backward , making the tip of my board being a tiny bit too high from the surface and show me how it should be . just 10 cm forward on my position and make a huge difference on how smooth the board catch the waves
I,v always rode bigger boards.
I can't even paddle a short board. I,m a rotund short fellow and longboards are so much mellower on the take-off and very forgiving in small to medium clean waves. They give you more time to pop up, they feel stable under you and you can without doubt catch more clean faces if your timing and position is correct.
I,v been surfing for 30+years and my emphasis is on fun rather than ego and high performance.
If your fit enough to shortboard then it makes sense to progress in performance.
If you want to have fun and STILL want long down the line rides but your not as fit as you were or your starting out, a longer, wider board with big volume is the way.
Big board+ Small clean waves= lots of fun rides.
The ride at 5:36 is so fluid. Getting around sections. Motivating to watch.
I couldn’t agree more with the assessment of folks riding boards too advanced for them! I see it all the time in PNW. Most need more time on a longboard/fun board and just learning how to paddle, catch waves etc...
Ive grown up with riding a mini mal, enough rocker, enough lengh to walk a bit, i dont think i even need a shortboard and ive been surfing for over 7 years now. I am able to drop in on some cornish 6ft stuff but also maintain long rides at saunton or sand banks.
If you like long boarding then sti ck to it!
Can you do a video on what certain surfboard features do? Like the tail. Nose. Length. Volume. Rocker
Tail gains control, narrow sinks more gaining control in fast hallow or big. Wide tail less control faster for small burgers. Swallow offer a bit of both. nose stays out of the way, pointer less volume to dig , wider more volume to catch waves. Soft rails slide, hard rails catch. Thrusters gain speed through turns single fins dont. Twin fins have less drag than a thrusters but slide out more. Quads and 5 finn's offer a bit of both. Bottom concave direct water through finn's creating a bit of drag but gaining control. Flat spots on bottom gain speed but loose control. Good for small burgers. Wide point below center gets you more vert, but harder to paddle and catch waves. Put some volume under your chest and you'll catch more waves. Also be careful, u cant ever have enough boards. It's very addictive. I have 12 and only ever ride 3. Bigger waves 7'6 pin tail
Good waves 6'8 rounded pin both thrusters. And fun waves fat 5'8 wide squash quad. I'm 44 years old been surfing since 1987. Hope it helped ya
Have an in-depth video in my course being added tomorrow
@@marcvince1261 dude that was an awesome explanation and made more sense in that condensed form than any of the stuff online. thank you!
I have a 9.0, 8.0, 7.1 and 7.0.... I think I'm stuck on the 7.0 because of faster steeper waves but I have trouble turn this one.
I might have to look for fat small waves to try my 9.0.... yes, I have not used my 9.0 and 7.1 :(
What happened around 3:09? I think what you are going to say is important. Thanks!
Been surfing at puerto rico island after 42 years now i use more a quadd 5'6".
If you nosedive on all of your take offs, don't take a smaller surfboard!! Learn to not nosedive! If any, I'd recommend a bigger board! Same logic when it comes do doing turns: you can't turn your Longboard so you buy a shortboard, thinking turns will be easier? Yes, it will be easier to change direction on a small board. But a proper turn is more than just shifting the nose 30 degrees! Learn do real turns on the big board first! In the right spot at the right time with all the necessary bodily movements. Then learn to connect turns. Theeen you might have a desire for even tighter more radical Top down movement. Then borrow a shortboard and experiment..
As someone who loves riding a 9 foot tri fin longboard, the longboard is not necessarily the issue with the nose dive. It is the lack of rocker on most traditional longboards. On steep, late jackup waves it can be vital to take off at an angle. But besides that you should be able to take off and turn without issue if your longboard is shaped a little more aggressively. It makes it harder to catch the small waves early but it still works in small waves
Damn Kale! This is coming a week too late! I bought a new board last week and did weeks of research on my own, but on the flip side, I learnt so much about them! I've been following your channel for awhile and will get the guide now for the future. Thanks!
🙌🏽🏄🏼♂️
Ok feel good about catching 75-80% of the waves. Great benchmark. I’m 5’7’’ 150 and 48. Ride 26.5 to 30ish. Easier pt breaks like topanga and malibu are where I get these numbers. Rincon is more like 50%…faster and stronger currents…albeit only surf that break a handful of times per year even though it’s only an hour away.
I surfed the W coast of Vancouver Island for over a decade (till my health tanked) where there was excellent beach break. To me the kooks were ppl using the wrong board for the waves coming in to that break. Wave type is as crucial as your body type and weight when selecting a board. If you move to an area with relatively rounded, slower beach break a short board may not be the best choice except for longer period swell that breaks faster. Not if you want any time standing up and riding. I didn’t start till I was 33 and the surfers who impressed me most were the quality long boarders and the guys who had guns for the really big days so that’s the direction I went. However, to each his/her own.
Thanks man I've watched a bunch of your videos on what board I should buy I'm 6 foot 4 195lbs went with a 6'4" pyzel astro pop 43L.v and I love it
Hey kale do a fin breakdown next. There are just to many choices.
Yes please!!
If u need someone to explain fins likely your skill level could not tell a difference. Sorry to be blunt but spend your $ by taking off early and getting more water time in. It’s the Indian not the arrow.
Yes fins always confuse me. Got a twin fin asked like 5 surfers that I know are good what to get and get a different answer everytime!
@@5446moto no sorry bro bought the Merrick am larges for quad and the board is just stiff to turn don't wanna keep dropping large cash to just keep guessing on what fins to buy. Had to set it up as a thruster btw but I want more speed.
daniel rouw if you want more speed fins don’t make that difference, fins w more rake will offer more drive and a more upright fin will release earlier...speed comes from rocker volume and overall length generally and maybe the set up ...really depends on skill level and like the original reply said if you have to ask then you need more time in the water period. try a board w more volume first before asking about what fins will make you go the fastest. really kooky question for real bro seriously
Just a tip for everyone. Your next board should be in libtech construction. I got the lost x lib quiver killer 5'6. Great riding from knee high to head high & beyond. Also the most durable board I've owned. 🤙
Hit the nail on the head! Just baught a board, while it will still work later down the road 7'. I still need a 9 to 9'4" board. May even go 10'.
Still I took it out and had no problem barrel rolling it, or catching waves/ foamy. It was a bit wobbly
Could you do a video on surf gear for groms, like fin selection and stuff
Would be great indeed 😊
Makes so much sense, I know those days where I’m being undergunned. Thanks for this. Also look down the line for the longboarding beginners! You go where you look
thank you so much, you underlined what I already felt. My personal mini malibu board is pretty big but as I’m still beginner/intermediate I sticked to it for a long time. Last vacations I rented a much shorter board with still a lot of volume and it was way better to handle for me due to the shorter size. I thought I wont do the same mistake as the majority and take a too short board but in my case it was the opposite:))
ok so maybe this doesn’t work but just curious. would it improve your paddling if you paddle around a pool on a skimboard for a while? because they have so little volume i’m wondering if that would help paddle power or not?
Not really - better to practice on a long board
I think i always wonder especialy for beginners, HOW do you try boards with different shapes, volumes, fins to knowing what suits you best? Boards are expensive and i gues many people can't affort to buy different boards to have a variety of boards to choose from. especially if the boards are custom build for you, the shaper not always estimates correctly your skill level.
Some rental places have progression boards, both hard and soft tops. Just ask and see if you can take out a shorter board and see how it goes. Usually your progression goes from a soft long board to a hard one, and then after that try something thats like 6ft 6-7ft with a decent amount of volume.
I be going 2hrs straight, fighting rips, catching waves. Only took about a year +
Hey I think the vid gets chopped at 3:12 FYI ✌🏻
You are correct
Ah sorry guys - shortcuts ruin me sometimes
All good
@@KalesBroccolibummer I really wanted to know how you could tell without taping yourself
Jenny Chon he commented what he said
Would you say a Torq funboard (6'6) for a 5'9 155lbs beginner /intermediate is is similar to a fish board?
Your Videos are so amazing. Very interesting and very technical information. Thanks for your time.
I love how you respond to most of the comments!
I learned to surf on a shorty. It's not impossible, but you have to be ready, you have to understand that it's going to take a long Long LONG time to get used to, especially when learning to paddle.
I found when learning to surf on
"Short s#!t" you really have to have that "Never give up" mindset. Because you've litterally just trippled your progression time. That time will shorten as your progression catches up to the board you're riding.
It will happen... but the learning curve is MASSIVE.
Now, later in life I really want to try a long board or a softie. Never tried one but I hear good things.
I think it would be far more "fun" to give it a shot. But I'm also scared that I'll like it way too much and my other boards might end up in the storeroom for longer than I'd like.
When I choose which board to ride, I always think of others. Most importantly how many others. The more of them, the more board.
Me too
You lost selection if you don't want to subscribe to my UA-cam channel then it's so me all you want idiot
@@brightmacsworld8353
WHAT THE ??
EXCELLENT content, Brock!!
what about getting deeper in the wave for take off
hey. kales, I was wondering if you could make a video about how to transfer from intermediate to advanced surfing?
There is one on my channel called surfers road map
also...one thing you didn't mention is to spend 10-20 min looking into the sea to understand the swell, the speed and other factors. Not always a larger volume board is the answer. Sometimes you need something a bit faster...other times, begginer foam board it's just the most fun. I surf waaaay less than what I would love, so I use a foam boar a lot...and I tend to have a lot of fun. I don't give a crap what others might think.
Thank you sir for all your advices.Hope you the best !
I'm on board Broc, I used to be really caught up in shortboards. I still ride them when the surf is good, and have a great time. But the surf mostly isn't pumping. I've found blending shortboard shapes with other craft ideas can make every session so much more fun. Boards like the Sharpeye BV2, Mayhem RNFish, JS's Barrons, etc. will just transform small mushy surf into a playground!
I have been surfing for 1year now. I have started with an epoxy 7"6 surfboard. Now that i am able to stand and ride the wall of the wave I am looking to improve my surf one step further. What surfboard type and size would recomend to buy as my second surfboard? I get a surfbaord that allows me to start praticign basic surf tricks without compromising my surf progression. I'm 186m . 85kg surfing small / medium waves
I bought a surfboard on the street 28,5 liter volume still looking good, I'm 70kg and 1.79m length would it be fine for me?
What sucks about starting off on a bigger board for me (foam) is that I’m 5’2 and 43 kg is that the board is too big for me. Buttt I’m getting a new one so hopefully that’ll help me out
I am a new surfer, I surf only 7 time, and today’s wave is 2meter high, I want to ask, how to make the board head not insert in the water, when I surf on 0.9 meter high wave ,it never happens, but always insert when the wave bigger (by the way ,my board is 6’4. 47L) sorry my English is so bad
If you wanna catch lotta waves - just go thicker n bit longer than normal, and wave count will increase. All my personal board's range from 2 3/4" - 3 1/8" thick. But, I tend to pinch rail's down to hide the thickness on my shapes - with a few exception's. I gotta twin pin w boxy rail's I'm experiment n with. NP getting wave's at 5'+.... But on smaller sub 3' wave's I got my board felt a bit sluggish. So yeah, get enough board for sure! Good vid mate!
every board needs time to learn. The more time, commitment and difficulty, the more satisfaction and progress you will have. The easier it gets, the sooner you get bored and the less progress you make, the less training you need. There are those who use only a long 9 'in waves from 1' up to 12 '+ in hawaii, like those who use a fish 5'3 in mash up to 2oh + (ryan burch), those who use twin 7'9 in solid barrels (torren martin) ..... everyone has to do their own surfing and take it day after day in all conditions. Surfing has to be free not a french fries and beans marketing. A 45 liter board with a lot of rocker will be much more difficult to paddle and start than a 40 liter board with little rocker. Volume matters how it is distributed and especially how thick the rails are. A 7 'with a tight nose and tight tail will be like using a 6'2 round nose and big square squash tail. Fish can hold back your ride in small waves and flies, too much grip for beginners who have to learn how to generate speed. In windy and choppy conditions a board with a pulled nose will row much better and faster than a full round nose. So it's all relative, numbers and volume matter very little.
When I take off my surfboard sink. Is that mean not enough volume?
what size board shortboard should my daughter have if she is 30kg and 140 metres tall - note: she is very strong and surfs at an intermediate level?
Thanks
I’m getting a bit bored of 8ft soft-tops because I am very landlocked so I only get to go surfing roughly once a year for the last decade, so I’ve gotten to an intermediate level but can’t do anything fun because I need an upgrade from hire-out foamies badly. Yes, it’s super easy to catch a wave and trim slowly along a wave with one but I can’t do any turns at all!
Kales lately I found my problem with catching waves, working on my paddling and finally found that sweet muscle memory where you are able to catch almost every wave. The problem is my take off. Every time I try to stand, either I face dive or can't have an angle and follow the waves. I tried with smaller and slower waves and i rode them pretty good, but as soon as the size and speed of the wave gets a little bit higher it seems that I totally lose control. What should I work on? What Do You Think could be the problem?
Sounds like you may have an issue with your pop-up timing and positioning your body at the point of transferring from prone to standing. Try give 2-3 extra power paddle strokes just before popping up and try make your transition from prone to standing as smooth, fluid and quick as possible. As soon as you are almost up, look in the direction you want to go, head horizontal to the beach. It might be as simple as you looking down at your feet or the nose area of your board. You might also be a tiny bit too far forward, so try to adjust your weight/balance until it is about 60% front foot and 40% back foot in the drop/pop-up, then shift to a more balanced position, depending where you are on yhe wave. Hope that helps. (Surfed 20years, surf coach for 2 years now).
good evening, very nice video, well done..
I'm 1.80 77-80 kilos, I've never surfed, now I'm thinking of starting.. what board i should buy? to use it later when I learn a little,, thanks
idk if its just me but at 6:15 and 7:15 just looked like they weren't positioned in the right spot to me not so much under volume idk if thATS JUST ME
Positioning affected by board paddle potential
Great video, lots of info. I’m new to surfing, got a 8ft soft top and I’m 163inch tall. I’m fit, I paddle a lot, but don’t catch many waves, and a lot of time my nose dips into water. Suggestions?
Dont paddle a lot, catch a lot of waves, don’t pearl..
Okay so I’ve been looking for the right board. My weight is 88 kilos, 88lb. What is your advice about length and volume? I’m pleased to hear something! Great videos!
I surf very rarely due to location (this need to change :p). But I found out that even very unfit, I can ride funboards of about 8'0 in size. I'm 6'2, weighting ~75Kg (so pretty lean). An alternative are very thick fish boards.
I also bodyboard a bit first when doing a long surf trip as being able to use my legs to move makes quite the difference (people use their legs more in day to day life).
Mid length boards with a refined shape are THE SHIT! Most fun in all conditions. performance longboards are also hot! That's my opinion after 25 years of recreational surfing. Shortboards can be amazing when everything comes together: no crowd, medium size waves, well shaped hollow waves, channel that helps you to the take off, unshifting take off spot
I have small short boards that I started to struggle with due to putting on weight in between surf trips. I got a 6'7 catch surf foamy now and started enjoying surfing again and catching heaps more waves, just hard to duck dive on the bigger days.
Hey Kale, can you recommend a good fish that is available in Europe (JR isn't) and is not a Firewire? Need it for really gutless waves.
My 52 yr old ass got back in the water after raising a family and bought a 6'2" blade. 700.00 to go out and get winded on the paddle out. I need a 6'6" quadfish with about 40 liters. Not my 34 liter board made for a 15 yr old. Young brain beat up body should never shop.
I never surf. Learning since last week. Roommate had couples surf boards. He said I can use funboard to learn go ahead. And I’m 5’11. Surf board is like 6 feet but still I’m doing okay. In few days I was able to stand on surfboard tho.
What's the name of your blue foam board that you use.
So why do people obsess over less volume? Is it better handling in general or allows better maneuver?
Not many obsess over it
Potentially more manoeuvrable to a point
Great video I've felt all these problems across my quiver
How do I differentiate between my paddling vs my "surfing"? I assume my surfing includes my take-off approach, pop-up, foot placement, pumping ability, etc?
I feel like I paddle well. I've broken the 4 minute make in 400 long course freestyle plenty of times, and can still go under 58 seconds for a 100m. I've also won kneeling paddle-board races, my fitness is good. On a mid-length or fish, I pop-up smooth, foot placement is ok, pumping from the take-off is quick. On a performance shortboard I pop-up with my front-foot back, my back-foot forward, and I can't pump efficiently. Why?
If you are fatigued heavily all the time could be paddling / board. Board obviously affects on wav performance too
Is it switching boards. Look down before u start pumping. Put your feet where they feels good. You can see Mason Ho do it at pipe when he's on a new board. That sweet spot can take a second.
I’m still quite certain too many people get caught up in sizes and volumes.
Jamie O’Brien gets the barrel of his life on a 9’ soft top with 100L. It’s unreal the places he can fit that board.
I tend to always shoot for more volume and size than needed just to get in early and have a longer ride. I’ve got boards ranging from 5’9” and kinda narrow to 10’2” and thicc and wide and foil boards and different foils and yet can nearly surf all of them at this break near my house. Some rides are just better and faster or longer than others.
It’s my opinion that nearly any board will work with enough time and effort put into it. But when you go too small, it just requires more time and more effort and more skill and more wave power.
Sooooo, I tend to always grab a longboard or midlength as it will surf nearly anything. But then there’s days I can’t put down my foil. It’s a 30L 4’ board and it absolutely blows my mind the waves I’ve gotten into.
I have an 8ft foam board but it's not the soft soft it's just not a hard board. I feel I can really get better at surfing but I struggle to turn with it. My parents think I dont need a new board,but I want to go forward w surfing as I love it more than them. I need advice from you to convince them, or convince me. Please can you help??