5 things I wish I knew when I started surfing
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- Опубліковано 28 тра 2024
- Learning to surf or improving your surfing can feel like an up-hill battle at times. But there are actually some really powerful strategies you can use to streamline your progression such as avoiding common mistakes, implementing additional training tools and changing your mindset.
Today I want to cover some of the things I wish I learned as a grommet and how, once I did learn them in my twenties, it actually helped me improve my surfing.
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I got some real benefits from surf skating when I couldn't be in the water. Some mock it but it really helped me a lot! As always thanks for the tips and insight. This 75 year old appreciates it!
😍 haha yes it’s a low hanging fruit for mocking birds but it’s a great tool regardless!
Same, same. Improved my shitty backhand no end.
I surf regular, skate goofy… no matter how hard I try I can‘t skate regular 🥲 fml…
Love surf skating too! Also do enjoy the Raglan Surf Report...suspect he's just jealous that Kale has the hair and an income stream that doesn't rely on beer jerky!
I'm 56 n still working to improve. Definitely planning on surfing to 75 and beyond.
Don't start, it will control your life in everything you do; family, work, relationships, travel, money, where you live...(pssst, it's all true but totally worth it 😄)
100000000% true 😂
I skateboarded all day every day since I was a kid then went to bodysurfing in big waves and learned the ocean rhythm when I started surfing I surfed six days a week five hours a day because I was determined not to be a kook I ended up living right on the beach on the sand at the best surf spot in Newport Beach and I surfed three times a day I do believe skateboarding helped my surfing I never became pro but as a female I probably could have as I was really getting recognized and offered sponsorship but I took a different route for money and I wasn’t really into competition surfing I don’t like competition anything really I don’t care if I surf better or worse than someone it’s not about that for me it’s always been about connecting to the 🌊
You're a soul surfer!!!!
That tip about pushing yourself into going into waves a bit out of your comfort zone is very helpful. I've just started learning and being quite short and small I easily get freaked out - even in the white water where I can still stand! If I can just challenge myself to go out a bit further I'll be able to practice getting more green waves and increase my confidence at the same time...
I agree with having more volume in your board, which made a big difference in my surfing progression.
It's nice to hear that I'm not the only one that craps myself when a big 4ft set rolls in! Great video as always Kale 🤙
Pushing your wave size comfort zone is part of the surfing learning curve.
And every one has had sessions where they paddled out and realized they've bitten off much more than they can chew.
Just keep taking small steps
I'm trying to figure out how big a 4' Australian scale wave is. Where I come from 4' is chest high- nothing to worry about. 4' Hawaiian scale would be a few feet overhead.
It's really inspiring to know that you were in your 20's when you really started surfing with any consistency. I started surfing at 21 and at 26 I only recently moved to a place where I can surf every day (as opposed to driving 2 hours each time I wanted to surf (melbourne).
Now I surf around 3-5 times a week and I really feel the difference in terms of confidence levels. It's good to know I'm not too old to hopefully become a decent surfer. Thanks for all your videos, also after watching your Twin Fin showdown I just ordered my first twinny, a JS Red Baron. Can't wait to try it out!
🙏🏽🙏🏽
I'm in exactly the same boat as you were at the moment hahaha - 21 and unable to surf often enough to really improve. Happy to hear that after a frustrating period you've started making real progress!
Completely agree with your points, especially the size of the board. As a former surf shop owner, it was frustrating to see so many people riding boards that are too small for them. A bigger board allows them to paddle faster, get in a wave earlier, stand up easier, and increase wave count which to me is the most important aspect to improve your surfing.
50 and 25 lbs overweight, rolling a 10' walden magic in Jersey. Whats the best move to get to a smaller board. bit bullet on a 7' thick (mega magic type) or 9' to 8' in smaller steps.
@@geenowalker Those mega magics are actually really good boards but the most important thing that you have something that you can paddle properly. I’m pretty sure there’s an 8 foot mega and that should give you enough buoyancy and they turn really well considering the thickness. As I said, wave count is the most important thing. The other option of course is just to stick to the nine footers and perfect your longboard technique. Either way it’s great to hear that you’re progressing. Keep it up!
Thank you for that input Kale!
For me, especially tip Nr. 5 is very helpful as I am in the stage of a beginner/intermediate. It all comes to these two movements to improve at this stage now. I also started surfskating and it’s insane how you can easily work on your turns by land aswell. I’m hyped!
Greets 🤙
I'm 12 years old, and I love surfing. The only problem is that I can only surf in the summer. This is because I live in NY for fall, winter, and spring, but then I live in Cape Cod in the summer. It's my dream to go pro, but it's hard to improve if I can't surf year-round. That's why it's so great to know that surf-skate training helps, so I'm definitely going to be using my surf-skate more now. Thank you so much for this video Kale! Your a big support for me!
😍
keep on ripping little one! soon you are gonna be trought the year
Hey Kale. Well stated ideas.. I’m 66 and started skateboarding at 6, surfing in my twenties. Two points: Swimming/boogie boarding first in big waves really helps orient me on those big scary days. Second, since access to surfable waves is limited here in NYC, skateboarding is a key alternative to find stoke.
Thanks for the info flow. “Huck”
great video, seen friends held back in their surfing because of tiny boards and the idea that you gotta go big even when you not ready. This was refreshingly honest and incredibly insightful. Love the vids.
🙏🏽
Such a helpful video. I'm from Texas and learned to surf in North carolina so naturally I haven't gotten to push myself as much as I would like but I love it so much. I'm moving to the Northern Beaches of Sydney next month and I'm so excited to improve my surfing by being able to go more frequently.
Just started surfing this week in the philipines. Heading to Sri Lanka in 4 weeks. Live in Melbourne. Will be watching all your vids and hopefully be progressing very fast thanks for the insights!
From Pensacola Florida on the Gulf Coast. You are tremendously helpful even here where we rarely have quality sizeable waves that have the duration to perform more than one of two turns. Even still your techniques help me immensely and I really enjoy surf skating.
Awesome video, as usual! Made the same mistake with board choice. Started out big and downsized progressively over the years till I got a fish, loved it and used it, as if it were my only board, on all types of waves for 4+ years --then stopped enjoying surfing because I felt stuck. Friends who suggested trying other boards. Right on point. Tried a couple of my friends' boards, one felt perfect, and I also got compliments on my surfing on that session (clearly the board allowed me to do what I was already ready to do but the fish didn't allow me to). Bought the same one, just a size smaller since I didn't need the volume. Game changer. Surfskating while I wasn't surfing really helped improve my backside bottom turn to (just last year, wish I'd know earlier!).
30 years of surfing and this is the first technical video I've ever watched. Thanks for it!
Thanks for sharing! Surfing in Sweden is ridiculously inconsistent so always helpful keep the stoke and progression out of the water 🙌
Such a good point (4) I switched from a 5’10” to a 6’6” and am surfing better than ever. I see so many intermediates bogging down their too small boards because they don’t have the ability to generate speed - they just want to rip and think a smaller board will allow them to do that (speaking for myself). Thanks for the instruction! Yew!
I sure see that. These guys might have gone from what they considered their learning boards to the board they want or wish they could ride.
Going shorter gradually can be the way to go.
Yep went from 5 11 to 6 4 made surfing heaps better too, I'm 6 2
Boards like FireWire you can ride 5’10 and float like a 6’6 so it’s better for pivoting and learning to do more stuff, honestly shorter+wider=more volume is the best way to go after nailing green waves, if your not surfing big waves you don’t need such long rail lines and it always gets caught up in the wave. Best quiver is a board under 6’0 and above 6’0
Your video are very helpful as usual. I did a lot of surfskate when I was far from the ocean and practiced as much as I can during lockdowns until I moved closer to the ocean where I mostly only needed to improve my paddling using a bigger surfboard. Talking about surfboard I am very interested into your new shape you mentionned in the video. So hyped to discover your next jewelry 😁
Thinking of getting back into it after years, I literally work across the street from the beach in HB. Don't really want to ride a long board though.
Great video, I needed this. Thank you!
Thanks for the great tips. Definitely need to look at my board volume and practice my turning.
Excellent video as always; Kale -- Really helpful techniques (especially to those of us that are land dwellers and not close to the ocean).
My favorite tip in your list is #4 choose the right surfboard. Many people (myself included) always want to grab the "hip" board that looks cool but doesn't always get the job done for the conditions / setup one needs.
Man you're so helpful every single evertime. I've basically had one weekend of surf training 2 years ago and watched many of your videos after and at this moment I surf so well all thanks to alot of your guidance and insight. From paddling to does and don'ts to just watching you surf. All the best in whatever you do 💯💯
Thank you so much! I am so happy to be a part of your journey
@@KalesBroccoli pretty bad advice, especially the skating stuff... yikes
@@wpac2068 Not at all. Unless you are the rare exception, if you are learning how to surf, and you find it difficult to find your balance as you take off, etc., you probably are not able to shred on a skateboard.
You have basically had one weekend of training, watched videos, and you are now ready to surf in contests? Did I miss something?
If there is one sport that is not like riding a bike, it is surfing. And I am not alone in saying so.
Dnt be silly @Julio. It's impossible to become good over a matter of weeks. All I'm saying is through some guidance from videos I've improved rapidly and had no need for further lessons from instructors. I manged to get the basics does and don'ts from an instructor over a weekend lesson and the rest I figures out by being in the water. Watching the videos help me teach myself everytime I went out. Anyhoe keep sharing your works it helps many in different ways
mate you are so well spoken, you are an excellent teacher
Thank you
Where you look is where you go .
Get coaching from the get go and fix errors before they become a bad habit.
Use the right board for your level be honest with self.
Stay fit/strong and flexible.
Thanks mate, u been helping me a lot over the last few months, I been knowing u and I really stepped up my game. Appreciate everything u going and love trying it with my surfskate or out in the lineup. Keep it up man❤❤❤
Glad to hear it thank you !!
Kale great video as always...great exercises I will definitely try them. Thanks! Keep up the great work! Watching you from Venezuela 54yrs old
Awesome! Thank you!
kale brocc, your insight into surfing has helped me progress from a medicore intermediate to somewhat of a more consistent intermediate surfer. i had been consistently trying the wrong maneuvers, whilst trying to ride the wrong equipment for nearly 20 years...thats a stubborn surfer! its been great learning and progressing with you, i can see your improvement as well, so keep up the good work, even though the kids and new generation of surfer have surpassed me a bit quicker than id like to admit...still trying and still fun, cheers
🙏🏽🙏🏽
I surfed a bit in my teens and early twenties but nothing since. I’m going to Costa Rica to visit my Grandkids (yes I’m 77) and plan to surf with them as they learn. This video and others of yours take a break-it-down approach which I love in my current sport of rowing. Thanks for this (no, I don’t and won’t skateboard) and for encouraging people “of any age” to get out there. Wish me luck!
howd it gooo :)
Great video - thanks Kale! You gave confirmation of something I just did - bought a slightly bigger board to help my paddling and wave-count. You also gave me the nudge that I really haven't been out in the lineup enough. haha
Love the skate surfing techniques or exercise. 52 years old and just started surfing. Thanks for all the tips
Several of these are great tips for improving in multiple sports, not just surfing. Obvious differences aside, 1, 2, & 4 helped me become a much better skier.
Hi Kale, fantastic video as usual. I think that an important tip to improve could be about knowing and respecting rules in the water: most of beginners fears depend on a crowded line up, when traffic is danger, for them and also for advanced surfers. Greetings from Italy
For sure! Have covered this extensively :)
I wish surf schools included a class room and video portion. A little bit of surf etiquette and water knowledge would help the students. And the rest of us.
Excellent documentary, loved the bottom / top turns forehand / backend on skateboard, get these right to break the ice of becoming an advanced surfer.
Thanks a lot for this video! I started surfing with 40 years old and living on an island but with no waves (Ibiza), well, very rarely.. just about to leave for 5,5 weeks surf in Ecuador, hoping for everyday surf 🤟I am in my 6th year of surfing and it can get very frustrating sometimes, but still I love it! 💙🏄♂
Great video. I agree with you when you talk about getting a mid length surfboard. It helps a lot to get more confidence before going for a smaller one. It takes time and a lot of practice. Thank you for sharing this video! 🌊 🏄 🙏🏼
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Thanks Kale, great video!
Awesome, thanks Kale
So many comments didn't read them all but felt I should share my experience of getting the right board after trying a few different shapes and sizes since stepping off a mini mal I had some idea what I needed so approached a locally renowned shaper for making good boards for Cornwall that work. We sat down and went through where my surfing was at what I wanted to achieve and was completely honest, what I got was a board that works so well for me it's got so much potential I doubt I'll ever reach it's potential but that's the new challenge 😆.
My advice beg borrow steal try as many different shapes as possible and go and speak with a local shaper and ask around who is making the best boards in your area.
I now have 4 boards in my quiver short board, mid length, foamy, and a 9foot long board I can usually get out most weekends and the summer when ever there are waves . Thanks for the content 🏆
Thank you so much for doing videos like this, its really helping me build confidence to charge bigger waves
You are so welcome!
What he is saying about skating and surfing is true. I skated full on all through my teens. I could carve the hell out of a board, the park, street, hills, vert ramps anywhere I went, I was always sessing out and having fun. Always road a Element 7.5. Because of this, I can carve the shiznit out of and ride wakeboards, snowboard well considering only done it once. Got a new fish! And wetsuit my first ever! So pumped 🤙 it's the Aqss flying fish! Should begood for Vic surf lol 90 mile Beach.
Your a Champin Kale keep up the awesome Content brother
Thank you Kale! I appreciate all that you do, your videos have helped me and inspired me! 🤙
My pleasure!!
Johnny Lawrence not only is a great Karate instructor, but also a great Surfer Instructor! Kudos Johnny! (great video).
Great info and big thanks. I like the way you communicate, clearly defining and breaking down each point. I’m now reproaching surfing once again after a layoff for some years to a number of operations due to injuries to both legs, which of course has ongoing affects to spine, muscle groups, etc.
So my approach has been pool training, Beach training, bodysurfing to regain stability and muscle condition as well as water/surf awareness. A slow road to get back to the level I used to surf. Goals are a good thing.
My quiver is no longer appropriate and I’ll be selling of 4 boards to purchase 2 that would be appropriate. At 61, I still find solace and a strong connection with the ocean on all levels. Thanks again and I’m now subscribe and look forward to more of your vids. Cheers
🙏🏽🙏🏽 best of luck on your journey mate!
Thanks for the entire video, but especially the last bit!
You're welcome!
Thanks for the advice mate! Been helping me a lot with the drop under the lip. 🤙🏼🤙🏼
kale, just wanted to say thank you for the content that you‘re providing for free. there‘s no channel even close to yours for surf guidance. keep it up. very good ad for the paid courses also as you know that you will get quality input. i‘ve noticed that the surf community is one of the most gatekeeping
You're so welcome!
#5 was super helpful to hear. Great content, many thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks a bunch for your tips. As far as I am concerned, the best tip you gave involves practicing on a skateboard. When I was a kid, and started surfing, I was also skating. I eventually started surfing so well that I became one of the best at a main Southern California break. Whenever there were no waves, I would not only skate, but visualize maneuvers, as you have also suggested.
Now, decades later, that I have the time and motivation to go back, I am having difficulty at times finding my balance as I take off and move down the line. I am going to start skating/visualizing again regularly now that you have reminded me how valuable that practice is.
Bottom line: If you can't find your balance on a skateboard, what makes you think you are going to tear it up on a surfboard?
Always interesting to hear what you have to say Kale. Very enjoyable, and I always feel I know a bit more.
(From a surfing nutcase in Gijón, Spain.)
❤️
lol I'm 53 and still progressing, surfing 20 years now and still more to learn
had a lesson with Edelberto in Playa Saladita, Mexico, last year and he really helped my style improve
never too old to learn, never too experienced for a lesson!
Thanks for all the info
You talk about how some boards put limitations on your surfing; you should make a video that goes over what you experienced and what boards were good and bad. Love your videos.
Wicked thanks love the detail with the smooth star example
Glad you liked it!
Awesome video, jst starting to learn to surf and this is really helpful. Been a vert skater for years and it’s time for something else 😊
I started 4 months ago at age 63 after never doing anything ocean related. I go nearly every day and today I got a 3 second ride!
Good information. I’m 64, haven’t surfed for years. I am going to Bali in Sept. ‘24. I like yourself surfed a modified fish in my early 20s. Later surfed a 6’7” thruster. Im going to get a 7’ mid tri fin for Bali. Should accommodate my weight and lack of surfing for so many years!
Watched UA-cam vids and got a lot of water time. Started with foam to increasingly larger waves--nothing too big, I may be stupid but I ain't crazy. Foam boards are great to learn on. I surf 🏄♂️ the NSB Inlet so there are consistent waves and I'm retired,so I got that going for me. I suck 🏄♂️ compared to most others, but I'm having fun!
Great 👍 vids Mr. Brock.
This video is awesome. Thank you.
Great vid thanks don’t forget 50 plus can progress too or even win pipe titles… I just noted something that you don’t talk much about which is board entry angle. At the 1 min mark and many others you’re entry angle is more acute than I would perform. This subtlety allows speed into the wave which on beach breaks are difficult but I’m seeing a small key to lifting my game -thanks
Very helpful. Thank you!!
You're welcome!
that was awesome, im not a surfer,but now i want this
board volume is new to me, I struggle to catch waves and had never heard of this "spec" for board sizing, it's pretty obvious my board is way low in that area, thanks for the info!
Hey Kale
You’re a good guy. I love your work.Thanks for all your help.
Regards
DF
My pleasure! Thanks DF!
Skating and a bigger board really helped me.
Get a bigger board, wise words. I started surfing in 1976 and have always surfed regularly. At 61 years old my current board is 9ft 6 inches. Best board I have ever owned. Great tutorial and well presented. Cheers Deno
Kale, don't forget about the mid 60's! Great videos! Thanks!😎👍
Absolutely !
One reason why I decided against a bigger board from the beginning on was duck diving. I found it harder to get out in the lineup or get along with cleanup sets.
It is certainly a factor
I had same thought in the past but I actually managed to duck dive my 7' because I improved my technique in couple of years, and also because I started chasing waves a bit bigger but requiering more volume. Just try with few liters more than your usual board 😉
thank you! good advice :)
I resonated most with the recommendation to try surfing with more volume. Modern surf style is based on what scores well in contests. To surf in that style you seem to need a low volume short board. Living inland an hour and three quarters from my preferred break, I only go when conditions are forecast to be good- not that often where I live- New England. Which is to say, I'm not as strong a paddler as someone who lives on the coast and can go almost everyday. I learned on a longboard at age 12 in '67, got a "shortboard"- 7', soon after, then a 6'6"- not shortboards by today's standards.
I've been riding a 6'4" KG Twinzer Fish since '08. It has a lot of volume compared to what people ride as shortboards today. I find it serves me well in all but the most critical conditions. It's easy to paddle, it turns really easily carving off the bottom and on cutbacks, and has a lot of speed even in pretty gutless surf. It's a different style of surfing; more like what you used to see back in the 70's, cruisey, fast, and functional for staying in the curl down the line. People are always coming up to me saying "I used to have one of those boards- one of the best boards I ever had".
One of the things that is helping me massively is LOSING WEIGHT!!!! I was 110kg back in December, down to 98kg now and I'm finding things like paddling and popping up are happening so much more easily. Lots of cardio = more time available in the water = improvement all round. I just need to get a decent mid length and I think I'll start seeing big improvements
when i was young and _The Simpsons_ was new to TV, all i wanted to be is like Bart and ride a skateboard everywhere, but my folks thought it would be too dangerous, and that was 30 years ago... been practicing surfing for about 18 months now and loving it, but the thought of starting skateboarding in my 40's is more intimidating than the waves at this stage hahaha. Can totally see the crossover and practical benifits though, i'll look into it. cheers! Awesome video as always mate. stay well. peace
Good input
Great video!!!
I've technically surfed for over 10 years, but never more than 3 or four times a year and some years not at all.. and always on a board that is not suited to me.
The last 2 months I've been surfed a lot, the last two weeks nearly every day...
There's some big swell on the east coast at the moment.. I sat and watched it for 3 hours yesterday, just before i went home, I decided to paddle out and have a go, if it was too much I have no shame in just coming back in.
I knew it was bigger than anything I've surfed before but it was a break i'm comfortable with and there were plenty of people out. So I had a go. 2 hours later, the best and biggest ride of my life. took an 8ft bomb on the head and got through it no issues. Never got tired or felt too out of place.
I really believe now that I can handle swell that yesterday I thought was too big for my cardio/ fitness. If I had decided not to go out I would still be stuck thinking I can't surf anything bigger than 4ft.
The power in bigger waves is something totally different, it's beautiful.
Thank you for bringing the Thunder from Down Under
I live in the middle of Pennsylvania but im happy to be here
Well done
Yeah Kale! Hope your doing great buddy! Yew🤙 Greg⭐
I was learned how to swim in a bad way so during all my life I was scared of diving. And it was a big blocker for surfing. I've started to practice with smaller waves and I feel much better now and I have started getting a bit of enjoyment of surfing. 😅
Lookin forward to trying surfing with my visit to Wakiki Beach in Oct...My mindset is...I ride unicycles...I luv my longboard & esk8...I can surf !!!...Reality I bet it's a different animal...But so excited to try...
Kinda hoping for good steady smaller waves, these larger waves have been harder to commit and progress in.
Best tip - relation of surf skate to surfing
U ever heard of " Go for it!!" That's how you learn and get better!!
Luv your content bro
Not 100% certain about board length. You don't say what's too short exactly, but my shortest board was my best board ever.
It was a 5' 10" square tail thruster, medium thickness and width, low rocker except near the front. I am 6 foot tall and weighed about 85kg then. I only had to think it and that board did it for me. It never lost a rail, always obeyed every direction, never let me down.
It became a twin fin by accident one day surfing on a shallow reef and that interestingly made it excitingly looser but less grippy.
I felt married to it it was so good. I'm forever a believer in square tails now, I feel like it enables both good grip and tight turns at all times. I could surf anything from 2' to 12-14' with it, 12' was fine but 14' was a bit more difficult to keep it stable. It also looked sexy.
If you can make one like it, I reckon you'd enjoy it.
It was on this board that I learned my favourite manoeuvre, I don't know what it's called, bounce off the bottom and drive up the face at an angle and hit the lip but be turning out just as it comes towards you so that the wave literally *throws* you out with the lip, and then you land in front of the lip and swing round into the face again. I could only do this up to 8-10' though as I just didn't have the nerve on 12' that I'd make the landing.
The volume conversation always seems to relate to skill. “If your a good surfer you should be on a 35L board.” I think that’s why everyone’s on a short board.
legendary specimen !
I started surfing at 64.
Kowabunga !!!
V. Interested in the new board! Take my money already!
😂
Your comment about the board size. I’m new to surfing and practice adaptive surfing so I hate having to need help carrying my board to the water. I have to let go and except help until I’m ready for something smaller and that I can manage on my own.
well, good tips
I am an intermediate form Germany and surf only 2-3 times a year on holiday. So after 15 years of surfing I am still intermediate. BUT I found that less volume is actually better for me, as when I have a mid-length I cannot duck dive efficiently and get pushed back a lot, so the extra volume doesn't help me when paddling as I start to paddle some meters back from the position where I would have been with a short board. Yeah Catching waves is easier, but only on weak waves.
This guy is the best.
Hi Kale, thanks so much for all your videos. I love your surf skate program and am using it at by my pump track. Regarding board volume: I want to keep my volume high 31liters @ 60kg (intermediate), but it makes duck diving pretty tough in 5ft. Stick it out or drop the volume, kind of a catch 22.
Stick it out I generally say! Too hard catching waves on an under volumed board
Thanks for all the tips Kale! I'm really glad to see that I've already applied some of them to my practice. I've made changes in my frequency, out of the water practice (with the surf skate), and finally on my board size and volume. I have a 6'6", 47L board now and it gave me the confidence I needed to catch more waves and be more stable while I surf them. However, I'm having a hard time duck diving, since I'm not a tall/strong girl 😅. The volume of the board makes it really hard to push it through the waves and I started to get really tired on my sessions. Sometimes I just let go of the board and just cross underwater or I flip over - and it can bother other surfers. Does anyone have tips to help me with it? I'm surfing in the south of Brazil and here we don't always have clean easy beginners conditions, so I find myself in some really tricky situations. Let me know cause I'm trying to not lose motivation.
Check out my video how to paddle out the back on bigger boards :)
Noticed that some sessions goes without me even attempting a proper pop up . Started popping up on bed .. weird enough .. it s getting smoother in the water . Got a bigger surf board ( 6.3 up to 6.8 ) feels heavier but I’m catching more waves on it .
Wish we have someone as good as you here in Portugal explaining and being meticulous in coaching. .. too many schools and coaches here and quality is scarce
Thanks a lot! I'm turning 15 in march, and have been surfing for a while (on and off for some 3-4 years).
I've been a long boarder down in Malibu (where the wave are made for long boarding)
Though now I've moved up to Hunting Beach, where the wave break a lot quicker (and bigger).
I have no fear of the larger waves; but after surfing all last summer on a longboard, I could hardly caught anything because I couldn't turn the board to the side fast enough.
I'm still a relative beginner, and even though I what to get better faster, I don't what to shirk the basics that I have to get down on a long board.
So, what I mean to ask is: Can I switch to a short board (or medium board) or maybe a fiberglass longboard.
I'm about 5"11 and I'm riding a 7 foot foamy; and it seems just that bit too big.
I'm not trying to blame my skill on a better board; and if there is an exercise for this I would work on it, but I'm almost certain it's the board.
Though, now that I look at it now, it is short for a longboard.
What do you think?
Thanks a lot; and sorry for rambling on so long.😄🤙🤙🤙
Great video! It’d be cool to also have the “goofy” version for the exercise at the end of the video for reference!