Just paying it forward. Bikes are amazing and bring out the best in humanity. I learned everything I know about bikes from UA-cam. Pay it forward people. 🙌
awesome video! Johnny is a mechanic friend with great patience and skills. I also self-assembled a gravel bike like you, but since my mechanic skills are low, I boldly gave up setting the full internal cable. It was much easier to replace once it was done. It was also much easier to add and manipulate the barrel adjuster for the front derailleur and dropper seatpost cable. If I had chosen the full internal cable method, I would have given up on self-assembling the bike. In addition, a common problem with sram and ltwoo is that if the shifting cable is excessively bent and causes friction, there is a possibility that the lever cannot return to its original position when the shifting lever is operated. With my skill, I can try a full internal if it's an electric drivetrain, but it's too difficult to try with minimal friction on a mechanical shift lever.
I literally just had the exact same issue with my hydraulic brakes on the eRX. After an hour trying to figure out why the brake levers couldn't be squeezed, I remembered this video where you had the brake issue. I turned the adjustment screw too far and it came out the back. Now I'm trying to figure out how to remove the level so I can put the screw back in.
It's a bit of a pain but the lever does come off. It's more annoying than anything else. I thought they would have fixed it for the eRX groupset though. After hours of tinkering and trying to get my brakes sorted they still aren't great, unfortunately.
Sram mtb levers need the bite point screw ALL the way out too as the master piston covers the timing port, preventing a reverse bleed. Also, this prevents them drawing more fluid in to the system from the master cylinder to compensate for pad wear. If your pads wear and the lever comes to the bar, do the screw trick and pump the lever and it will come back again. Ltwoo must be designed by the same bloke!
Your thumbnail made my heart sink a little bit. Well played!! Will also be requesting the help of a local mechanic with installation of my gr9 11speed version in the near future. Luke's (trace velo) mentioned the issue with the screw having no built in back stop. Hope they fix that in future iterations.
I saw another mechanic using those Jagwire cable cutters and needle press tools on another bike build and had been trying to figure out who made them. I hate the Park version of the needle press as it requires 3 hands to use. So thank you for listing tools, because all of my Googling never returned Jagwire tools.
I saw your video before purchasing this group set and still mange to push the little screw out the back of the lever. While retrieving the little screw, the spring mechanism at the back of the shifter came apart. The brakes felt good after installing it but I had to screw that little screw all the way in to get adequate braking power.
You aren't the only one who messed up and screwed that screw all the way through. I think Trace Velo did it and Francis Cade. It seems to be a design flaw that it is that easy to do
Yeah, I think many people have had the issue. It just needed some instructions to let people know. Either way, I'm sure that will be addressed in future versions.
this lever screw seems to have caused everyone issues so far, trace velo, francis cade, now you. Seems like there needs to be a version 2 of these shifters with a different solution!
I agree, it needs to have a stop that prevents it being screwed all the way in. And also have instructions about the screw preventing bleed. I think detailed instructions are coming soon 👌🏼
Nah, there just needs to be documentation to tell people how to properly work on this lever. And of course, people should read that documentation before fiddling with this.
OMG!!! But heh, you potentially have saved the World thousands of frustrated man hours by the rest of us, and a special thanks to Joe, a true hero on this episode!
Haha, I get quite a few emails a day asking for help on stuff like this, but it's just a few minutes out of my day to try help keep the world turning. One love.
By the time you buy a cassette, chain, rotors, BB and crankset you could get a Shimano R7000 for the same price as its on sale atm........no brainer really. You know Shimano is gonna go together and work like a dream
Yeah, with that being literally half price right now it's a great deal. The only issue is they are limited in stock. Only certain crank arm lengths and derailleur which forced you down a certain path. (Not that it really matters). I'm tempted to get the 105 deal for my next build.
Hi Jourdain. I noticed you connected the brakes, left lever rear break and right lever front brake. We call it the English way. However what are the benefits of connecting the brakes this way? Motorcycles even in the U.K. have connected the brakes the other way around.
It's because they are on the other side of the road, so would make sense to have them swapped compared to the North American or "European" way. However, The "British" way is much better for European/ North American roads being on the right side. This allows you to use the front brake with your right hand while signalling with the left. The rear brake is virtually useless (80/20 front/ rear ratio).
... when you think that internal cable routing can't go any more silly, some "genius" invents internally routed handlebars that spits cables/hoses into headset. Just brilliant, brilliant 🤬😵😵💫
I had no luck using a bleed cup on the lever. (I have a v high quality Hope one). I had to use 2 x syringes in the end, tilting the bike vertically from front wheel to back wheel, and back again, bleeding as I went from low to high. The lever adjustment/pad reach screw turns 6.5 turns clockwise to push the piston inwards and bring the pads closer. When it reaches 7 turns, it falls out. DAMHIK. I've asked before, but if anyone knows why they've gone to the bother of including an 'air' port atop the lever, shout out.
Is it possible to use an ordinary stem and handlebar on this kind of frame? Or does it need this kind of integrated stem-handlebar that has built-in cable routing paths for the internal cable routing to work?
Yeah you can use an ordinary stem and handlebar. You'll need to use the FSA no. 69 headset, or an Ali equivalent. Check out Patrick Lino on UA-cam, he built his like that
Be careful when you use the risk internal routing tool again. I have the same tool before but there's once the magnet connected to the wire came off insider the frame, and it took me lots of time and effort to take it out
Let me know how get on with the set buddy, saw the china bike Channel where he did a review of them. Said it was ok and snappy but always good to get a second opinion
Any issues with L-Twoo will be reflected on in years to come as birthing pains. Not a fan of the name, it must be said. Maybe we need to shorten it to LT. So then, this LT Hydro group is pretty sweet for the money. Brakes are good, shifting seems market ready, the grub screw issue will be solved. LT will get better over time.
This video isn't really fair to LTWOO. Even I could have guessed you need to undo the preload before bleeding. Other brands require this as well. At most, you can blame LTWOO for not providing proper instructions. Also, when bleeding a rear brake, you need to tilt the bike so the rear caliper is lower than the BB, so the air bubbles can travel up into the lever.
I didn't realize other brands have the same setup. Which ones so that it doesn't trip me up again? When you look at the lever and the screw it's not clear how this affects the bleeding, considering it just comes out of you screw it in too far. Either way, a simple instruction guide (which is inbound) would have avoided this all together 👍🏼
@@JourdainColeman since the lever reach adjustment screw is also the master cylinder preload adjustment (bite point or free stroke), preloading the MC (or pulling the lever a bit) closes off the flow between the MC and the fluid reservoir (where the bleed funnel sits), so that squeezed fluid doesn't just flow back to the reservoir when you pull the brake levers. it's a common design of hydraulic brakes (esp in motorcycles) which don't cause issues in mid- to high-end bicycle brakes since the bite point or free stroke adjustment is different from the reach adjustment. Still, most brake bleeding instructions tell you to back off the bite point or free stroke adjustment before bleeding to avoid this mechanical conflict.
Hi i have erx and also ended with issue on left lever. First set up and bleeding was ok, but after 400km i felt that iam loosing pressure in left lever / brake. So i tried to go thru bleeding process again, but this time i ended without completely soggy lever and no pressure, but with weird sound when pressing lever. I tried fiddling with screw, air port, but no success 😢 Is there any oprion to buy rev2 left lever?
Really nice video. The screw was the same screw that @TraceVelo had issue with on the gravel version of this groupset. He also showed how to put it back together. Do you plan to get the eRX version to try?
hi. I have the same problem, the air does not come out when I press the syringe. How hard did you tighten the screw on the handle? Do I need to twist it all the way?
I’m a barely competent (and that’s likely an optimistic term) home mechanic. I will never, EVER, do an internal routing job like that. It would send me over the edge.
@@JourdainColeman Maybe, but how much would that 6 hours of labor cost at a shop? That has to be factored into the final price of the product. Assuming a shop will even look at it after a DIYer has exhausted their options.
So installing a new system from a new producer is different from installing a system you know🤷 why knew. Also if you watched one video on it you'd know, they all mention this and the non-captive scew😂
Hope you have more luck than @Francis Cade @Cade Media his first run out snapped off the paddel on the shifter . Great content as always you getting the new LTwoo wireless shifters next 🤔
I hope so too! I saw his video and thought... It's not looking good 🤔 - They do tend to improve as they go so hopefully it becomes more and more refined. 👍🏽
8 minutes and 17 seconds into your video i realized I might never have a disc brake bike what a nightmare I'm used to do my bike maintenance at home this is tedious as hell so many tools and so many steps some call this progress but all i see is an industry dictating what the consumer must get and depend on LBS rather than DYS ers horrible
Yeah, routed cables are a pain and unless you have have the time and expertise then I'm not sure it's worth the hassle. Semi-routed is ok (just through the frame) but fully routed (through the bars as well) become a different story. Most people use electronic gears with fully routed bikes to avoid this hassle. 👍🏽
Gez doesn’t everyone do it the idiot proof way I do - front mech & front brake on the left, rear mech & rear brake on the right. Wtf would anyone mix front & back on the same side?
all those tight bends and awkward pulls you do mess up the outers, so if you pull through the frame using a bit of extra house and outer you kinda pull it all together, I have done many brands this way and especially this method if recabling an old bike.
Well they got the math wrong on some of their shifters, for starters. I think it's great that performance is more affordable, and I would support this company if they were distributed through dealers and shops, but theyre not. Theyre part of the reason why we may not have many local bike shops 10 years from now, or less.
there are quite a number of shifting handle failure happening in chinese cycling community. Even with the aluminium version. After the price drop of shimano's counterparts in china, this groupset is not worth buying now.
Yeah, I have seen the issues that people are having, I don't like that the consumers are the testers. These issues need to be ironed out before release.
Internally cable-routed handlebars....a shitshow. Maybe the bar designers could design actual channels set into the bars to make it easier to push cables through?
Your videos say only one thing to me: if a bike assembly requires a professional mechanic with 18 years of job experience, avoid such a bike as a gonorrea.
@glenn oc Tiagra is definitely durable. This group is significantly lighter though, and it seems the FD is competitive with higher end groups than Tiagra.
Checkout part 1 of the build here - ua-cam.com/video/VAOCtA2uz9k/v-deo.html
Never buy Chinese tech you silly billy , will be broken within a month , Dura Ace or forget it
Joe seems like such a solid dude.
Agreed!
Just paying it forward. Bikes are amazing and bring out the best in humanity. I learned everything I know about bikes from UA-cam. Pay it forward people. 🙌
@@JourdainColeman Why are you advertising for Chinese rubbish omg I would be ashamed of myself as Xi sits with Putin today
awesome video! Johnny is a mechanic friend with great patience and skills.
I also self-assembled a gravel bike like you, but since my mechanic skills are low, I boldly gave up setting the full internal cable. It was much easier to replace once it was done.
It was also much easier to add and manipulate the barrel adjuster for the front derailleur and dropper seatpost cable.
If I had chosen the full internal cable method, I would have given up on self-assembling the bike.
In addition, a common problem with sram and ltwoo is that if the shifting cable is excessively bent and causes friction, there is a possibility that the lever cannot return to its original position when the shifting lever is operated.
With my skill, I can try a full internal if it's an electric drivetrain, but it's too difficult to try with minimal friction on a mechanical shift lever.
cant wait to see the next upgrade video to LTWOO electronic hydraulic groupo :)
Im a little ham handed with the tools. I can appreciate watching a mechanic who has it all figured out.
Thank you for showing me that I would never want to internally route cables through my bars. Ever.
🤣🤣
if you do it the right way it is a lot easier.. prep bars and levers first using the old hose and cable to pull through the new. many stands help.
….or disc brakes,or electronic shifting
My bike mechanic loves me 😀
I literally just had the exact same issue with my hydraulic brakes on the eRX. After an hour trying to figure out why the brake levers couldn't be squeezed, I remembered this video where you had the brake issue. I turned the adjustment screw too far and it came out the back. Now I'm trying to figure out how to remove the level so I can put the screw back in.
It's a bit of a pain but the lever does come off. It's more annoying than anything else. I thought they would have fixed it for the eRX groupset though.
After hours of tinkering and trying to get my brakes sorted they still aren't great, unfortunately.
Amazing video as always J. Great work Johnny Well done. Thank for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it man! Good to hear from you 👌🏼
Can't believe my Pt. I prediction is leading to a Pt. 3. Holy cow, so happy with my rim brakes.
Im so glad I have two external cabled road bikes too. 😅
Sram mtb levers need the bite point screw ALL the way out too as the master piston covers the timing port, preventing a reverse bleed. Also, this prevents them drawing more fluid in to the system from the master cylinder to compensate for pad wear. If your pads wear and the lever comes to the bar, do the screw trick and pump the lever and it will come back again. Ltwoo must be designed by the same bloke!
To be fair. Ltwoo was founded by ex SRAM engineers
Phil Lynott has been reincarnated as a bike mechanic!....the boys are back in town!
Your thumbnail made my heart sink a little bit. Well played!!
Will also be requesting the help of a local mechanic with installation of my gr9 11speed version in the near future. Luke's (trace velo) mentioned the issue with the screw having no built in back stop. Hope they fix that in future iterations.
I saw another mechanic using those Jagwire cable cutters and needle press tools on another bike build and had been trying to figure out who made them. I hate the Park version of the needle press as it requires 3 hands to use. So thank you for listing tools, because all of my Googling never returned Jagwire tools.
Glad it was helpful and you now know the tools used 👍🏼
I haven't been this excited for upcoming episodes since watching the Game of Thrones!😆
Comparing my "one man band" videos to GOT is a true compliment. I can't promise I'll be hatching any dragons though 🐉
Jo from Chinacycling just put a video for eRX. Electronic Ltwoo Groupset. 😃. I'm so excited. This must be you next build, mate. 👍
Hopefully I'll get my hands on that and be able to give you guys an in depth review
Should see the end of bar cable routing woes
The hype is real! I was checking for this every day. :)
👍🏼
I saw your video before purchasing this group set and still mange to push the little screw out the back of the lever. While retrieving the little screw, the spring mechanism at the back of the shifter came apart. The brakes felt good after installing it but I had to screw that little screw all the way in to get adequate braking power.
Glad you got it sorted 👍🏽
A little bit of assembly grease can help with the olive dilemma.
Very help full , im having the same issue in Thailand. Thank u
You aren't the only one who messed up and screwed that screw all the way through. I think Trace Velo did it and Francis Cade. It seems to be a design flaw that it is that easy to do
I wouldn't say it's a design flaw; it works for its intended purpose. The lack of any documentation IMO is the flaw here.
Yeah, I think many people have had the issue. It just needed some instructions to let people know. Either way, I'm sure that will be addressed in future versions.
@@JourdainColeman Hope so.
this lever screw seems to have caused everyone issues so far, trace velo, francis cade, now you. Seems like there needs to be a version 2 of these shifters with a different solution!
I agree, it needs to have a stop that prevents it being screwed all the way in. And also have instructions about the screw preventing bleed. I think detailed instructions are coming soon 👌🏼
Nah, there just needs to be documentation to tell people how to properly work on this lever. And of course, people should read that documentation before fiddling with this.
OMG!!! But heh, you potentially have saved the World thousands of frustrated man hours by the rest of us, and a special thanks to Joe, a true hero on this episode!
Haha, I get quite a few emails a day asking for help on stuff like this, but it's just a few minutes out of my day to try help keep the world turning. One love.
By the time you buy a cassette, chain, rotors, BB and crankset you could get a Shimano R7000 for the same price as its on sale atm........no brainer really. You know Shimano is gonna go together and work like a dream
Yeah, with that being literally half price right now it's a great deal. The only issue is they are limited in stock. Only certain crank arm lengths and derailleur which forced you down a certain path. (Not that it really matters). I'm tempted to get the 105 deal for my next build.
Hi Jourdain. I noticed you connected the brakes, left lever rear break and right lever front brake. We call it the English way. However what are the benefits of connecting the brakes this way? Motorcycles even in the U.K. have connected the brakes the other way around.
It's because they are on the other side of the road, so would make sense to have them swapped compared to the North American or "European" way. However, The "British" way is much better for European/ North American roads being on the right side. This allows you to use the front brake with your right hand while signalling with the left. The rear brake is virtually useless (80/20 front/ rear ratio).
Great breakdown, great patience, great content...
Hahahaha... again Joe to save the day!!! Ansious to see that bike ready Jourdain... great video
Joe was super helpful in deed! I can't wait until the bike is finished as well 👌🏼
... when you think that internal cable routing can't go any more silly, some "genius" invents internally routed handlebars that spits cables/hoses into headset. Just brilliant, brilliant 🤬😵😵💫
I had no luck using a bleed cup on the lever. (I have a v high quality Hope one). I had to use 2 x syringes in the end, tilting the bike vertically from front wheel to back wheel, and back again, bleeding as I went from low to high.
The lever adjustment/pad reach screw turns 6.5 turns clockwise to push the piston inwards and bring the pads closer. When it reaches 7 turns, it falls out. DAMHIK.
I've asked before, but if anyone knows why they've gone to the bother of including an 'air' port atop the lever, shout out.
Hey there thx for the video. Which bleeding kid did you use?
Is it possible to use an ordinary stem and handlebar on this kind of frame? Or does it need this kind of integrated stem-handlebar that has built-in cable routing paths for the internal cable routing to work?
Yeah you can use an ordinary stem and handlebar. You'll need to use the FSA no. 69 headset, or an Ali equivalent. Check out Patrick Lino on UA-cam, he built his like that
Be careful when you use the risk internal routing tool again. I have the same tool before but there's once the magnet connected to the wire came off insider the frame, and it took me lots of time and effort to take it out
Thanks for the info... I'll be careful when using it 👍🏽
I am excited for part 3.
Coming soon!! 🛠️
Maybe greesing the outers will help?
Get Shimano 105 R7020 11 Speed Disc Brake Groupset for 450 pounds from chainreaction and save yourself the headaches.
With resale value and the confidence they'll still be working in 20 years
Agree with this. Trace Velo and Francis' mechanic have also struggled with these things ... not worth the hassle
Yeah, I'm getting Shimano for an upcoming build. As much as I want the LTwoo groupsets to be perfect it may take a little time.
@@JourdainColeman appreciate you testing this out for us first before we spend our monies. Ltwoo ERX next?
@@JourdainColeman does this ltwoo rear derailleur actually have a parallelogram?
Does the rear derailleur actually have a parallelogram?
Let me know how get on with the set buddy, saw the china bike Channel where he did a review of them. Said it was ok and snappy but always good to get a second opinion
From the start of CADES ride review of this.. his paddle shifter broke mid ride.. big bruh moment.
Yeah, I saw that... Let's hope that was a one off! 🙃
Thumbs up for Joe. Nice video.
👍🏼
Not gonna lie... these comments are making me feel warm and fuzzy. Have a great day Nico!
Any issues with L-Twoo will be reflected on in years to come as birthing pains. Not a fan of the name, it must be said. Maybe we need to shorten it to LT. So then, this LT Hydro group is pretty sweet for the money. Brakes are good, shifting seems market ready, the grub screw issue will be solved. LT will get better over time.
I agree... over time they will improve and we will see the results. Hopefully this is pretty quick and we all have a cheaper viable option 👍🏽
Just one question: why don’t make it as front brake and gear as left and rear brake and gear as right ?? Just my curiosity…..
0:28 I am confused. The poll was about the Elves Falath Evo frameset and not about the groupset…
This video isn't really fair to LTWOO. Even I could have guessed you need to undo the preload before bleeding. Other brands require this as well. At most, you can blame LTWOO for not providing proper instructions.
Also, when bleeding a rear brake, you need to tilt the bike so the rear caliper is lower than the BB, so the air bubbles can travel up into the lever.
I didn't realize other brands have the same setup. Which ones so that it doesn't trip me up again? When you look at the lever and the screw it's not clear how this affects the bleeding, considering it just comes out of you screw it in too far.
Either way, a simple instruction guide (which is inbound) would have avoided this all together 👍🏼
I used to do the bike tilt method but now I use the syringe push through method
@@JourdainColeman since the lever reach adjustment screw is also the master cylinder preload adjustment (bite point or free stroke), preloading the MC (or pulling the lever a bit) closes off the flow between the MC and the fluid reservoir (where the bleed funnel sits), so that squeezed fluid doesn't just flow back to the reservoir when you pull the brake levers.
it's a common design of hydraulic brakes (esp in motorcycles) which don't cause issues in mid- to high-end bicycle brakes since the bite point or free stroke adjustment is different from the reach adjustment. Still, most brake bleeding instructions tell you to back off the bite point or free stroke adjustment before bleeding to avoid this mechanical conflict.
Hi i have erx and also ended with issue on left lever. First set up and bleeding was ok, but after 400km i felt that iam loosing pressure in left lever / brake. So i tried to go thru bleeding process again, but this time i ended without completely soggy lever and no pressure, but with weird sound when pressing lever. I tried fiddling with screw, air port, but no success 😢 Is there any oprion to buy rev2 left lever?
Really nice video.
The screw was the same screw that @TraceVelo had issue with on the gravel version of this groupset. He also showed how to put it back together.
Do you plan to get the eRX version to try?
Hi which break oil do you recommend for theses breaks ? Will SHIMANO stuff be ok ?
Did I miss the part where you installed the housing dampers?
No... I forget them!
Excellent content mate
Glad you enjoyed it
This is why for internal routing headset, I only prefer wireless shifters.
Yeah, I can understand that. It's just the cost is so high ££££
@@JourdainColeman just hope LTWOO come up with a wireless version.
That tight Handle bar tho.
hi. I have the same problem, the air does not come out when I press the syringe. How hard did you tighten the screw on the handle? Do I need to twist it all the way?
Don Ho’s “ Tiny Bubbles “ insert on your vlog? 😬
Internal routing is such a pain with areo bars
Great vid! How many man hours do you reckon a normal build is?
Good question... If the cables are all routed then at least a day (that's for me, not sure about a mechanic). No routed cables will be quicker. 👍🏼
It shouldn't take more than 2hrs for a competent mechanic with tight cable routing. It shouldn't take more than 4hrs for a competent laymen.
这种一体把最好是用无线电变套件，穿两条刹车管既可。
Big up to Joe from C.C.
I thoud the front brake is on the left lever?
Right lever in the UK is front brake, left lever is back brake.
@@mr.smooth6173 funny didn’t that 😅
also NZ, OZ and Japan. The US and Europe are opposite....no idea why tho🤔
a crimped front brake cable?
Ok. Why is your front brake lever on the right side ?
Uk Standard. Same as motorbikes here 👍🏽
I’m a barely competent (and that’s likely an optimistic term) home mechanic. I will never, EVER, do an internal routing job like that. It would send me over the edge.
Hi, any contact details for Jhonny? I'd like to take my Ltwoo bike to him! Cheers
There's a upcoming wireless groupset
I'll hopefully get my hands on it!
MY BUBBLES !!!
And what about eRX?
Hopefully I can get my hands on the eRX groupset. Let's see when it comes out.
exactly why I will never buy other shifters etc other than shimano.
Buy Shimano bro.
Yeah, I'm planning Shimano for a build coming up. I am hopeful that the Chinese groupset will be good though to save us all £££
@@JourdainColeman Maybe, but how much would that 6 hours of labor cost at a shop? That has to be factored into the final price of the product. Assuming a shop will even look at it after a DIYer has exhausted their options.
Yeah, just skeptical. Looking forward to 1000km reviews. R.I.S.K. really incredibly sketchy kit 😃
You and me both! Fingers Crossed
@@JourdainColeman 👍
You know what? That came out kinda crappie. When i made that comment, what i meant was, im really interested. And i wish you the best of luck!!!!
Pity you couldn't have edited for the electronic version.
I love like that, 😍😍😍
I think Mr Ludacris isn’t just that good
So installing a new system from a new producer is different from installing a system you know🤷 why knew. Also if you watched one video on it you'd know, they all mention this and the non-captive scew😂
Hope you have more luck than @Francis Cade @Cade Media his first run out snapped off the paddel on the shifter . Great content as always you getting the new LTwoo wireless shifters next 🤔
I hope so too! I saw his video and thought... It's not looking good 🤔 - They do tend to improve as they go so hopefully it becomes more and more refined. 👍🏽
Who cares if the guy can build bikes!! He has cool hair!!!
8 minutes and 17 seconds into your video i realized I might never have a disc brake bike what a nightmare
I'm used to do my bike maintenance at home this is tedious as hell so many tools and so many steps some call this progress but all i see is an industry dictating what the consumer must get and depend on LBS rather than DYS ers horrible
Yeah, routed cables are a pain and unless you have have the time and expertise then I'm not sure it's worth the hassle. Semi-routed is ok (just through the frame) but fully routed (through the bars as well) become a different story. Most people use electronic gears with fully routed bikes to avoid this hassle. 👍🏽
Gez doesn’t everyone do it the idiot proof way I do - front mech & front brake on the left, rear mech & rear brake on the right. Wtf would anyone mix front & back on the same side?
Depends where you are in the world. In the UK, front brake and rear mech on the right. 👍🏼
Prepare the bars first. You made It really hard for yourselves.
In the prior video they point out its better to start from the back
Yeah, if you do the bars firs then it's harder to route through the frame at the rear triangle. Swings and roundabouts I guess 🤔
honesty way easier the other way round
all those tight bends and awkward pulls you do mess up the outers, so if you pull through the frame using a bit of extra house and outer you kinda pull it all together, I have done many brands this way and especially this method if recabling an old bike.
then chop off the end giving you nice clean kink free hoses and outers.
internal routing , such a pain.
Well they got the math wrong on some of their shifters, for starters. I think it's great that performance is more affordable, and I would support this company if they were distributed through dealers and shops, but theyre not. Theyre part of the reason why we may not have many local bike shops 10 years from now, or less.
there are quite a number of shifting handle failure happening in chinese cycling community. Even with the aluminium version.
After the price drop of shimano's counterparts in china, this groupset is not worth buying now.
Yeah, I have seen the issues that people are having, I don't like that the consumers are the testers. These issues need to be ironed out before release.
Internally cable-routed handlebars....a shitshow.
Maybe the bar designers could design actual channels set into the bars to make it easier to push cables through?
Makes me think I'd rather train a teeny bit more, gain 2 watts, and never ever go anywhere near an integrated bar. What a pointless faff.
Your videos say only one thing to me: if a bike assembly requires a professional mechanic with 18 years of job experience, avoid such a bike as a gonorrea.
Lol
Internal routing, the worst trend in bike design. Minimal performance gain, maximum hassle gain.
Well, now your know why "screw" is used as a bad language
The groupset is inferior. Quality assurance is suspect. LTwoo does not stand behind their product!
another brand running beta tests on paying customers, not pointing fingers, those are the times we're living in.
Good video. Lets hope when you go for a ride, the lever doesn't snap. That's what happened to Cade. I so want the Chinese stuff to get perfected.
Perfect is an absurd ask for such low cost. Hopefully they fix that problem though.
@@veganpotterthevegan hmmm Shimano Tiagra is pretty perfect for similar money
@glenn oc Tiagra is definitely durable. This group is significantly lighter though, and it seems the FD is competitive with higher end groups than Tiagra.
Internal cables and hoses is the biggest load of unnecessary bs that the bike industry has managed to convince consumers to desire. How ridiculous.
Look like ludachris
Love your vids bro.
But could you stop with the bits? They're not funny, kind of annoying and ruin the flow of the video.
Speak too much fast ...its very dificult understand all you says. Why so fast...😂.
Far too much work for installing cheap chinese junk onto a bike.