Hi Dave. I just replaced this control board on my GE Electric Range (JBP78BY1BB). My problem was no heat from the bottom oven element, which tested good at 16 Ohms. A voltage check on the element lead from the control board showed no volts, so that zeroed in on the board. I was glad to see they are still out there for a lot cheaper than a new range ($154 including tax, S&H from Sears PartsDirect). I've about rebuilt this stove over the last 20 years (glass door, oven enclosure, elements), but it matches the rest of the kitchen: fridge, dishwasher, and microwave, so...Thanks for the video; I also had to replace the spade connector on the yellow oven wire. Everything works again!
Thanks for the comment and the helpful information. Glad to see you like to keep the old stuff going too. From what I hear from others the quality of the new stuff leaves a lot to be desired.
Thank you Dave, brother, for producing and uploading this extensive repair video. Our range developed the same symptoms as yours. I was able to diagnose the problem based on your research and was able to find the 'exact' same part #WB27X10311 for our GE True Temp at a great place in Phoenix Arizona named Apex where they recycle electronic boards of major appliances of major manufacturers. They had a good used board for me for less than half of the price of new one with free shipping. Our GE range is 25 years old and is now running like new ;).
Two questions, if I may ... 1 - Were you sure it was a bad relay and not possibly a component which 'drives' the relay; ie. transistor, etc.? 2 - Did you try to obtain just another relay and replace just that? Finally, I'm glad to see someone else fixing things vs just throwing it out and purchasing another. Very nice video! I should have checked my situation out more closely ... I had a yellow sticker that was easily pealed off the two relays - one for broiler and other for bake. Each relay has a plastic snap on cover that was somewhat easily removable, although a bit difficult to grab hold of. So from all the jarring I believe I disrupted a good 'as found' condition. Anyway, I found both relays (when the stove was plugged back in) were de-energized (both elements off). And when each control was turned for a few seconds before turning back off, the appropriate element came on and then off. I did find a lot of black carbon on the NO contacts (which close when turned on) and believe the contact was 'slightly' welded in place the last time the broiler was turned on. That is until I jarred the relay when removing the cover which caused the broiler relay to go back to its normally de-energized state. I plan on cleaning the contacts of both relays, popping the covers on and hope I get another 25+ years of use from them!
If I remember correctly the only replacement part I could find was the whole board. If you are good at circuit board repairs you might try to find a compatible relay, but if not, since it is a safety concern that it works properly, I would recommend replacing the board.
I suppose that would be the same for the bottom also I noticed was four years ago but I'm running into this problem but mine is the bottom stays on there's no lights lit up where the knobs are
Hi Dave. I just replaced this control board on my GE Electric Range (JBP78BY1BB). My problem was no heat from the bottom oven element, which tested good at 16 Ohms. A voltage check on the element lead from the control board showed no volts, so that zeroed in on the board. I was glad to see they are still out there for a lot cheaper than a new range ($154 including tax, S&H from Sears PartsDirect). I've about rebuilt this stove over the last 20 years (glass door, oven enclosure, elements), but it matches the rest of the kitchen: fridge, dishwasher, and microwave, so...Thanks for the video; I also had to replace the spade connector on the yellow oven wire. Everything works again!
Thanks for the comment and the helpful information. Glad to see you like to keep the old stuff going too. From what I hear from others the quality of the new stuff leaves a lot to be desired.
Thank you Dave, brother, for producing and uploading this extensive repair video. Our range developed the same symptoms as yours. I was able to diagnose the problem based on your research and was able to find the 'exact' same part #WB27X10311 for our GE True Temp at a great place in Phoenix Arizona named Apex where they recycle electronic boards of major appliances of major manufacturers. They had a good used board for me for less than half of the price of new one with free shipping. Our GE range is 25 years old and is now running like new ;).
Thanks for the feedback. That is a good tip about Apex.
Two questions, if I may ... 1 - Were you sure it was a bad relay and not possibly a component which 'drives' the relay; ie. transistor, etc.? 2 - Did you try to obtain just another relay and replace just that? Finally, I'm glad to see someone else fixing things vs just throwing it out and purchasing another. Very nice video!
I should have checked my situation out more closely ... I had a yellow sticker that was easily pealed off the two relays - one for broiler and other for bake. Each relay has a plastic snap on cover that was somewhat easily removable, although a bit difficult to grab hold of. So from all the jarring I believe I disrupted a good 'as found' condition. Anyway, I found both relays (when the stove was plugged back in) were de-energized (both elements off). And when each control was turned for a few seconds before turning back off, the appropriate element came on and then off. I did find a lot of black carbon on the NO contacts (which close when turned on) and believe the contact was 'slightly' welded in place the last time the broiler was turned on. That is until I jarred the relay when removing the cover which caused the broiler relay to go back to its normally de-energized state. I plan on cleaning the contacts of both relays, popping the covers on and hope I get another 25+ years of use from them!
Very helpful and well articulated video. Thanks.
Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it.
Can just the relay be replaced instead of the whole board?
If I remember correctly the only replacement part I could find was the whole board. If you are good at circuit board repairs you might try to find a compatible relay, but if not, since it is a safety concern that it works properly, I would recommend replacing the board.
I suppose that would be the same for the bottom also I noticed was four years ago but I'm running into this problem but mine is the bottom stays on there's no lights lit up where the knobs are
Yes, once you replace the control board it should work properly.
All you had to do is get a $8 relay part, which is a relay switch and take it off the motherboard and put a new one on
do you by chance have the part number for this? I'm having same problem with exactly the same range
do you by chance have the part number for this? I'm having same problem with exactly the same range
GE Replacement part #WB27X10311 was used for the repair.
do you by chance have the part number for this? I'm having same problem with exactly the same range
do you by chance have the part number for this? I'm having same problem with exactly the same range