Nice. We had exact same issue. I fixed the bake joint 6 years and now the broiler joint needs some TLC. Even though I am familiar with the process, it is really great to refer to this. The only thing I did different was to remove the control box from the front. If the solder trick does not work tomorrow, I'll need to ship if off. Fingers crossed. ** more difficult than this is getting the broil element back in place. They've left me with little or no spare wire and the connections are loosy goosy.
Great video! My wife and I completed the fix just as on your video. Works great! Our control panel was out of production, contacted a company in Kansas who works on them $179 to fix it. Thanks so much you saved us more money than that, we where about to buy a new oven. Thanks again and if you make it to Arkansas look me up I will be the guy smiling.
Thanks for the video again , I commented a while back on this fix and I should have stated a company in KS wanted $175 to fix it but following the video I and my wife fixed it for free. I can not remember the company name. Thanks again.
Thank you for this video. I just took out the control board and am waiting for a new relay. I was concerned because when I took out the relay and tested it, it worked fine. But I did notice that there was some discoloration on one of the points which as you've shown it may be just a matter of resoldering that point. Since I ordered the new relay I will wait to put that one in. Hope it was that.
@@spicky2966 Yes, the new relay worked and yes, all the functions of the control panel worked prior to doing any repairs...display, setting time, oven temp, etc. Was very happy since were about to buy a new oven because we couldn't get the oven to fire up. the typical problem is the heating element that ignites the gas. We changed the heating element and that did nothing. Then I wanted to see if it was the gas valve. So i set the oven to heat to 400 and took the wires that went to the heating element and provided power to it. The oven worked which told me the problem was sending power from the control panel. Changed the $2 relay and BANG. it worked. $2 vs $1500 because I couldn't even get a new control panel if i wanted as it is no longer made.
Usually the solder on the board fails because the contact points on the relay is pitted and carbonized causing enough resistance to generate heat that melts the solder. Best practice is to replace the relay.
At the beginning of the video, the text says that "the control panel and all the buttons work fine". But then you start working on the control panel with the soldering. A bit confusing.
Hoping you can help me out! I have kenmore stove that got the f10 error. Ohmed the temp sensor and it is good. Control board is blackened near relay. Will soldering possibly fix it? I haven't opened up circuit board yet to see if it's same problem as this video? They want $200 for replacement board and I just don't have it. Thank you in advance, hoping you see this.
I know this is an old post but I hope I still can get an answer. My wifes kenmore oven has a numbered screen similar to the one you have on this unit. The issue I have is the numbers on the screen are getting dimmer. I resoldered the pads where it connected to the board and she said it was better. Now a couple of years later she says it is getting dim again. Can you tell me what I might try to get the numbers brighter back to new? The boards are expensive as I am sure you know and I can only buy used boards on ebay ! Only found 1 board at that. Any help would be appreciated. Stay safe and well.
@@amtpdb1 You might already know this (I can't remember now but I don't think he mentioned the name in the video) , but it's called a vacuum fluorescent display and they all get dim over time. Audio components used them extensively, so there is no shortage of info if you search for "howto fix dim vfd" or something like that. They are comparatively power hungry displays so they are sensitive to supply problems... in other words, replace the caps. 3 out of the 6 on mine were bad, and not just a little. P.S. Tell your wife it's the self cleaning cycle that kills these things, so the fewer the better.
The symptoms on this one I'm looking at is,,when you punch STOP and then, BAKE/BROIL, then to set temp..then mash BAKE?BROIL to go into production, it cancels and reverts to "High noon" aka, 12:00 The transformer is low HOT to the touch - that could be normal - and a little discolored.
I popped out the board and can't see any evidence of overheating..with that, as I mentioned, the transformer was probably 105 to 110, not scorching hot, with a little marshmallowing, but nothing shockingly fried looking. The default to flashing 12:00 when you set temp and push bake or BROIL to me seems like the problem is in the boards and not outside, right? or could it be the door-sw.or something goofy like that?
Nice. We had exact same issue. I fixed the bake joint 6 years and now the broiler joint needs some TLC. Even though I am familiar with the process, it is really great to refer to this.
The only thing I did different was to remove the control box from the front. If the solder trick does not work tomorrow, I'll need to ship if off. Fingers crossed.
** more difficult than this is getting the broil element back in place. They've left me with little or no spare wire and the connections are loosy goosy.
Great video! My wife and I completed the fix just as on your video. Works great! Our control panel was out of production, contacted a company in Kansas who works on them $179 to fix it. Thanks so much you saved us more money than that, we where about to buy a new oven. Thanks again and if you make it to Arkansas look me up I will be the guy smiling.
What is the name of the KS outfit? I found one in CA but it was more expensive.
excellent video. I've been messing with my Frigidaire for awhile now. Exact same control board, now I'll be able to fix it. Thanks so much !!!
Thanks for the video again , I commented a while back on this fix and I should have stated a company in KS wanted $175 to fix it but following the video I and my wife fixed it for free. I can not remember the company name. Thanks again.
Hey man, nice video, congrats for this and thankyou very much for your time and kind ti do it. The best secret kept: do it right, do it with love...
Thank you for this video. I just took out the control board and am waiting for a new relay. I was concerned because when I took out the relay and tested it, it worked fine. But I did notice that there was some discoloration on one of the points which as you've shown it may be just a matter of resoldering that point. Since I ordered the new relay I will wait to put that one in. Hope it was that.
did the new relay work was the display working before
@@spicky2966 Yes, the new relay worked and yes, all the functions of the control panel worked prior to doing any repairs...display, setting time, oven temp, etc. Was very happy since were about to buy a new oven because we couldn't get the oven to fire up. the typical problem is the heating element that ignites the gas. We changed the heating element and that did nothing. Then I wanted to see if it was the gas valve. So i set the oven to heat to 400 and took the wires that went to the heating element and provided power to it. The oven worked which told me the problem was sending power from the control panel. Changed the $2 relay and BANG. it worked. $2 vs $1500 because I couldn't even get a new control panel if i wanted as it is no longer made.
You saved me $60 - Thanks!
Usually the solder on the board fails because the contact points on the relay is pitted and carbonized causing enough resistance to generate heat that melts the solder. Best practice is to replace the relay.
The problem is internal to the relay so this is just a temp fix of a symptom. That relay needs replacing & if you're doing one I'd replace both.
Thank you buddy, helped me alot !!
Thank YOU!!! I liked and subscribed.
Great job nice repair nextime try flux paste for a better solder.....
At the beginning of the video, the text says that "the control panel and all the buttons work fine".
But then you start working on the control panel with the soldering. A bit confusing.
Perfection! 👌🏽
Thanks for posting. I have a similar oven that won’t turn on. Do you think it could be the transformer on the control board?
It's possible, I would check all the soldered connections first
Hoping you can help me out! I have kenmore stove that got the f10 error. Ohmed the temp sensor and it is good. Control board is blackened near relay. Will soldering possibly fix it? I haven't opened up circuit board yet to see if it's same problem as this video? They want $200 for replacement board and I just don't have it. Thank you in advance, hoping you see this.
I don't know, but you might as well try!
Would you know where the fuse for the control board is located? I have Frigidaire Model PLEB30T9FCC
SORRY, NO. YOU JUST NEED TO TURN OFF THE POWER TO THE WHOLE APPLIANCE
I know this is an old post but I hope I still can get an answer. My wifes kenmore oven has a numbered screen similar to the one you have on this unit. The issue I have is the numbers on the screen are getting dimmer. I resoldered the pads where it connected to the board and she said it was better. Now a couple of years later she says it is getting dim again. Can you tell me what I might try to get the numbers brighter back to new? The boards are expensive as I am sure you know and I can only buy used boards on ebay ! Only found 1 board at that. Any help would be appreciated. Stay safe and well.
I wish I could help. It sounds like the board is toast, sorry
Has it dimmed over the entire display evenly, or are some parts more dim than others?
@@Milkmans_Son Thanks for responding. It has been dimming over the entire display evenly over time.
@@amtpdb1 You might already know this (I can't remember now but I don't think he mentioned the name in the video) , but it's called a vacuum fluorescent display and they all get dim over time. Audio components used them extensively, so there is no shortage of info if you search for "howto fix dim vfd" or something like that.
They are comparatively power hungry displays so they are sensitive to supply problems... in other words, replace the caps. 3 out of the 6 on mine were bad, and not just a little.
P.S. Tell your wife it's the self cleaning cycle that kills these things, so the fewer the better.
@@Milkmans_Son Thanks for the information. Stay safe.
The symptoms on this one I'm looking at is,,when you punch STOP and then, BAKE/BROIL, then to set temp..then mash BAKE?BROIL to go into production, it cancels and reverts to "High noon" aka, 12:00 The transformer is low HOT to the touch - that could be normal - and a little discolored.
That doesn't sound good
@@dougmckown5 haha, thanks
I don't know where this goes but it sounds like replace unit
The unit you address is 220v, so I think the solder point diagnosis does not cross with gas and lower voltages to the control solder points..mm?
I popped out the board and can't see any evidence of overheating..with that, as I mentioned, the transformer was probably 105 to 110, not scorching hot, with a little marshmallowing, but nothing shockingly fried looking. The default to flashing 12:00 when you set temp and push bake or BROIL to me seems like the problem is in the boards and not outside, right? or could it be the door-sw.or something goofy like that?
This tech does not know how to solder. Those are cold solder joints and may fail again. Send that guy to soldering school.