Thank you very much for this video..My gram is 80 years old and on a fixed income..Her GE is dealing with this issue and she was worried about spending money that she doesn’t have..After watching this video I now know what I need to repair...Keep the video’s coming brother 🙏🏾🙏🏾👍🏾
Thanks to your helpful video, I diagnosed my oven issue. It was the DLB relay, something I never knew about. This led me to either replacing the entire control board $400, buying a replacement oven $$$ or learning how to source parts, desolder relays and solder new relays onto circuit boards. AMZ had the relay for $10 and my oven is now working as intended. Thanks again!
You have made this very simplistic. I have been an appliance tech for over 40 years, and you have taken the fear factor out of it for the Do it yourself’r
thanks for posting your video. I just checked my brothers kenmore and found the 110v terminal to the relay on the board needed to be resoldered.. works perfect again. His wife is pissed off as she wanted a new range...lol thanks again.
Brother, you rock! Excellent, clear explanation, great diagram. Walked me right to the source of my problem -- the relay for the L2 failed, and once I removed and inspected the control boar,d I found that the relay failure actually damaged the PCB of the control board -- cooked a couple traces right off the board! Thank you for your top quality content!
Great video. Thanks for your help. My broil element was the only thing not working on mine. With the help of a couple of your videos, I was able to determine that it was my control board. I tested continuity on both elements and both legs of the power using your videos and the diagram on the back of the unit. I also checked the thermistor which was working correctly also. Now if you can just tell me how to troubleshoot and repair my control board since they don't make it any more! LOL! Thanks again for the great videos.
For those of us that can understand a very basic schematic, this is THE best description of how these ovens work. I can now see it in my head and feel comfortable I can diagnose why I lost both broil and bake at the same time. Thank You!! I have two questions - 1.) Geographically, where should I look for the fuse on L2, and is it obvious it is a fuse and not a fusible link or something like that? 2.) If I determine either type of the old/new relays is bad and I have the skill, can I just get the part number off the relay and remove and replace it without replacing the board or is it better to replace the board assembly?
Most of the time you find that fuse on the back wall. Unless its a frigidaire. They are sometimes on the top of the cavity, which is underneath the cooktop on a range. As for repairing boards, I am not that guy that can tell you a bad relay is bad. I can guess but that is as far as I can go. As for the part number, yes you should see it on the needed relay.
Your explanations were very helpful and informative. I guess I have a special issue. I checked all test points you referenced, all were good. My issue was the Relay on the Oven Motherboard not working properly, sticking. But, your instructions helped me greatly to diagnose the problem and eliminate the normal failure items. Thanks again!
My broil and bottom element don't work. I checked for continuity and it was good. The weird thing is each side is getting 120 and it's not heating up. Hmmm I have a back middle element and heats up . Hmm
Excellent job breaking that down. Turned out you are right on the money my DLB relay had failed. I temporarily jumper out the relay to confirm the diagnosis and the bake and broil element worked. I guess in theory you could replace the relay on the board or just replace the board. That video was definitely worth a Subscribe
@@BeardedApplianceRepair The broiler on my electric Kenmore range(around 20 years old) heats up (the element glows red) but will kick off well before reaching 500 degrees. It heats fine on bake though. The ohms checked out good on the element and temp sensor, so what would make it stop calling for heat before the oven reaches temp when using the broiler? Thank you
Loved the video. Was using I while working on my no broil and no bake heating element issue. None of these issues were the problem though, wanna guess what it was? Limit thermostat for the cooling fan! Bypassed it for testing purposes and the oven fired right up with the broiler as well.
Excellent video. I was able to find the (red) DLB relay on the control board for my GE oven/microwave combo, then found the burn marks on the other side. I found the relay online for $10 and replaced it. All good now. THANK YOU.
Thanks… so easy to follow and solved my problem after attaching my meter to the oven element. Found that when the rely tripped no current went to the element. Bad connection in the L2 connector. Thanks man you saved me 200 bucks,”.
I’m having an issue with just my bake element. First off the element OHMs out at 21 which is the same as my working broil element. When I turn the oven on I get 240 on the element for 15 seconds then I loose it after hearing a relay click. After loosing the 240 I check each side of the element to ground and I’m getting 120 on each side. Do you have any recommendations on where I should look next? Could the element ohm out good but not hold up to the load? I’m scratching my head here. Thanks for any help
This is fantastic info! I have an old, whirlpool rb270pxbq1 double, wall insert oven. First the bake heat went out. It would only get to around 100 degrees, then crapped out all together. However, the broiler still worked like a champ. Then out of the blue the broil stopped heating up too. I haven't check anything out yet. My bottom oven still bakes and broils. The top oven, all the controls still work, but again, no heat. What would cause one to partially work, then not work; broiler worked then not at all?
Make sure your element are ohming good. Should be somewhere around 30 ohms. If they are open than its simply bad elements. If they test good, and this sounds like an old one, You probably need a new thermostat for it and I hope you can find one. I condemned an old oven this week because it was one of those parts you cannot get anymore.
I was so happy to run across this and it made so much sense! Thank you. However, when I went to go test my non working oven when h tested each side of the baking element terminals, I got 120v on each side. However when test both of them together I get nothing?!!! How is that even possible? The broiler and the baking element not working, and I definitely have 240v coming into the oven. The heat fuse does have continuity. Ugh! I could have sworn I would have been able to effectively troubleshoot after this video, but wasn’t expecting to see 120 on each side of the element when I tested volts with ground. Any other things to troubleshoot?
Thanks for this detailed video.I have Inglish stove. Bake element ( bottom one) works perfectly fine.Broil element comes on and off ,some time it goes off after 5 minutes, some times it doesn't work at all .
If your element tests good. I believe broil element are somewhere around 15 ohms. 15-30ohms. If it is there than I would think it would be a relay on the board failing. Keep in mind during the bake sequence, the broil element is only used for preheat. Afterwards it should not come back on. Broil element should only work in broil and for preheat on bake.
Great video. Replaced the bad element. It was fried. With new element, took 60 minutes to get to 240 degrees. Put broiler on heated real slow too. Multimeter showed fuse and sensor (1086) had continuity. Outlet showed120 and 120. I think it’s the board because of bad rely or relays.
Thanks for the dryer (bravo xl) element repair. My detect light doesn’t go out and no heat. Do you Think it is the heating element or the airflow detection circuit?
Excellent video. The oven elements (inc broil) of our 20 yr old MAYTAG stove (model MER5770BCW) have stopped working and we removed the back panel. But we cannot locate the fuse to check if it is the problem. Videos seem to show a small two bladed fuse screwed in the back of some MAYTAG stoves but we don't see anything like that on ours, or any kind of fusible link in the wiring. Is there an obvious location for the thermal fuse or somewhere else where we should be looking? Any advice would be appreciated.
Great info and as you said my stove works everywhere the top and lights, all but oven light and heat. I guess it would be the fuse as well right ANYBODY?
I have 240V on both bake and broil elements when control is set to BAKE/BROIL. When set to BAKE at any temp setting other than BROIL, I get a about 60 volts on both the bake and broil elements. What do you think is the broblem? Thanks for your assistance and great video.
Hi, I just replaced my heating element and control board on my Whirlpool oven yesterday. It got up to 425 degrees temp for dinner last night and then i went to make cookies later in the night at 350. It never got up to temperature again. Please advise. 6-21-23 Thank you
On Whirlpool double ovens with the fuse easily accessible behind the user interface, I do not replace those with the OEM fuse. I instead use a Dacor or Samsung resettable fuse. I just cut some spacers out of 1/4 inch copper tubing and screw it down right behind the grate where air comes in on it's way to the cooling fan so the customer can just reset it instead of having to pay for another repair for the same thing next Thanksgiving. It pissed off my employers as they would miss out on the future call. I started my own business and treat my customers better.
This video was so Helpful, and I’m thinking it’s going to be my Bake Element Relay since the Broil works but not the bake element, can you just order the bake element relay alone or would I have to order the whole control board? Thanks
Thanks for this very suthing to listen to you . Unfortunately my Samsung flex oven NE58F9710WSIAC doesn't seem to have any fuses. I tested all oven elements, temperature sensors, temperature fuse. I get 120v on all elements if I measure one side and ground. If i measure both leads together I get like 5v I should be getting 240v there correct? Stove top works fine.
Thanks for the video! My oven Kenmore 48089 only seems to have a high limit thermostat switch near the fan. I tested continuity on it and it's good. The only thing that doesn't work are the heating elements. All controls and everything work. Any idea?
Are the fuses different than regular fuses? Do they reset ? I installed a new control panel and the ovens (dual) shut off after it reaches certain temp I also get no error code and the burners work fine. I am stuck with a new control panel and no ovens. There are other smaller control boards back there (Frigidare) but I am thinking it's some safety feature that shuts off the ovens for some reason.
I have both good elements. I have 120 only on one side of both elements. The side that has nothing connects to both elements. I can't find a fuse on this Frigidaire oven unless it's hiding somewhere. I don't see it in the schematics. So I am sure it must be a relay that failed the control board . Your video definitely helped.
Only the display works on mine and I can't use the stove or oven...I was able to hear some electeical short noises everytime I turned on the stove for the past week then it died. I still have the clock display, lol. Should I check to see if anything is lose on the terminal block? Or where did you find your solution? Thanks in advance!
My aunt has an older whirlpool oven.. recently her broil element stopped working.. I got another one.. the new one doesnt work either.. I looked it up and got a universal element receptical but when I got into the back, there wasn't one.. it just had wires going to the bake and temp knobs..
I work for apartment maintenance and the resident is not from America and swears the oven is broken because both (top, bottom) elements are not on simultaneously. I, born in America and only ever used conventional electric ovens just knew the oven on bake used the bottom and broil setting was the top. Idk we just renovated so I’m new to this whirlpool oven.
I have an older model Roper oven/stove (model ree32303) No digital display, only turn nobs. The oven element works but runs hot (about 50F higher than what it’s set for). The broil element does not work at all. Could it be the fuse? It does not have the old fashioned fuses that you screw in.
I have a double oven and the bottom element blew into and lit up the house. I replaced the element but it want work. All other 3 elements work. Fuse is ok. Did I blow the control board? On the right end there is a resistor that plugs into board. It looks discolored but no hot spots on board anywhere. It appears that the board is working as far as function but bottom element don't work.
I have a Whirlpool double wall oven which the top half stopped heating. The display works fine and the lower half bakes fine. The day the top-half smells, the over stopped heating and I smelled a burning plastic smell that went away. Is that the bake element or the fuse that made it smell like burning plastic?
Good info, but you did not cover my problem. The bottom broil element on Our KEBS209 Kitchen Aid Double Oven does not work. Also the bake on the bottom is very slow heating and does not get above 250. I bake a lot of bread products at 450 degrees and have not used the clean function since February.
I'd like to know when "Modern Day" began. The term modern day telling which diagram would be used relies on when the stove was made, without knowing at least roughly what would be considered "modern day" it's difficult to know which diagram would be applicable for a stove made around 2010.
Great video man! I've got one for you. Got a broil element that won't come on. Bake element works fine. I've checked continuity on the element. Fine. Checked continuity on the temperature sensor. Fine. Checked power. It's got 240 (obviously since the bake element comes on). I've even checked continuity at the plug into the board with each wire to the element. Fine. That leaves me with the board or wiring. Any other tips before I order a new board?
@@theresapetersen2676 it ended up being a bad relay on the board. And nobody around me does that kind of work, so I would have had to replace the board, and on that model it wasn't worth replacing, so we bought a new one. Good luck!
Excellent video, explains simply the whole big issue. I have samsung electric stove and could not dind the fuse, if you or anyone in the thread can help out to locate. Thanks
I have a very old wall double oven and the top oven doesn't work but the bottom works fine. if a element will not work would that cause the light not to turn on? what I mean by light i mean the power light. when I turn the knob a light turns on.
Hello, great explanation, you may be the guy to ask about my oven. The oven is a 20 year Maytag Gemini (MER6769BAW,) the problem is that when the lower oven is on, the top oven heats very slowly, never reaching the preset temperature. If the top oven is used alone, it heats at the normal rate of 5 degree every thirty seconds. After viewing your video, I applied a digital voltage meter to measure the voltage between ground and a terminal on each of the four heating elements. The only voltage I get on each element is 124 VAC. I never get 240 VAC on either the top two elements or the bottom two elements even when either the bottom oven or the top oven is operating normally, ie: heating at the above rate, The service harness terminals both show the correct voltage of 124 VAC After viewing your video, I expected to find what you had stated about L1 and L2. I can hear the relays "making" as the oven or ovens heat up, but the 124 VAC readouts never change. Although unable to duplicate your results, but based on your analysis, I suspect the circuit board needs repair or replacement (both services are available.) Is there any other possible explanation? Thank you for your video, very helpful, and I hope after three years since t was place on YT, you are still available!
Would the double line break relay be built in to the control board? I have 120 on each leg coming in to the stove and following them right from there to the control board they measure 84 volts (oven turned off) at the board. L1 side of the element gets 120 when oven is turned on while L2 gets nothing. There's no fuse between the element and the control board so is it also built in to the control board (no replaceable fuse seen on the board)?
Very good job with this. My Kenmore oven is pre- heating very slowly and never gets hotter than 200 f. I'm not sure if it might be the bake element or the broil element. The bake element is hidden underneath the bottom so I can't see it, but also the broiler element doesn't get hot when set to broil. Am I correct in assuming it is not the fuse because it is heating just very slowly and doesn't get up to temp. I am wondering if a faulty temp sensor might cause this particular problem and maybe the elements are both ok.
What would I do if L2 is out? Is each line on it's on fuse? As well is there any easy way to test a relay? Thanks for the amazing video. Have a double jennair oven , while the bottom oven works fine and and the top oven doesn't seem to work neither the bake or the broil, so I made sure the bake and broil elements are working. Swapped them with the bottom ones and it still didn't work. There was power coming in at the bake element, as when I was removing the bake element I hit metal and Bam the fuse blue Forgot to turn off the electric. So there's some electric coming in at the bake , even through o would suspect the fuse to be bad. Seems like I'm going to have to pull the oven out of the wall. Do you have any videos on how to read wire diagrams? Always wanted to learn that technique, I found it amazing to be able to read that info.
I have a 22 year old Kenmore oven, bottom element stopped working, i tried to change the element and still doesnt work, top element works fine.. what could be the problem? the control board? or something else?
Im having this problem with my oven. Both elements wont heat up. Do all ovens have a thermal fuse? I baked a casserole at 400 and then the next day no heat. Im hoping its not the board.
Hello there I need a serious help here when I use broil my oven the top element working fine but when the time I use bake the top element is not working
I'm having an issue with my electric double oven the maytag gemini and both top and bottom bake functions will not work. I've bought new elements and still nothing. Checked thermal fuse and contacts on control board everything is clean. It just takes forever on bake to heat up like 4 hours and never fully heats up but I tested the voltage last night to everything and its showing I'm not getting any voltage to the bake elements at all. I'm now lost on what it is or how to test what it could be
Model #FEFL79JQB - FRIGIDAIRE Electric Range, bake and broil not heating at all but cook top are fine and this model has no fuse I think , should I replace the board?
how bout dem cowboys, lol thanks for video NH COWBOY FAN here staubach, dorsett, too tall, great wall of dallas, e. smith all time leading rusher, playmaker, everson walls, danny white and jerry j HOW BOUT DEM COWBOYS
My bake works but top element does not come on until I turn it on broil. It gets red hot on broil but doesnt come on when we set clean or bake. Three year old Kenmore.
Would you know where I can find a burner tube and igniter for a Modern Maid PHO103-UD double gas oven or equivalent parts? This is great oven but the burner tube has a rotted area and needs to be replaced. I was told its not available from the MFG but was wondering if there was an equivalent.
Great video! I am trying to diagnose my issue with my maytag oven. When I turn the oven on to preheat, it heats up very quickly and the broiler element stays on the whole time. Making my oven too hot. Could this be due to my baking element being out? The baking element is not exposed for me to see if it is heating up or not.
Sounds like a stuck relay on the board to me. The elements do what the board tells it to. For the hidden bake element, when you turn it on, you should feel a little bit if heat coming through the bottom. It can take up to a minute before you feel it though. From what it sounds like it is getting to hot due to the broil element not shutting off. Which tends to be the control board that causes that issue. Verify the bake element is working and change the board. It should work for you after that.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair Thank you. I tried to replace the temperature sensor, but that was not it.. Thanks so much I will try to replace the control board.
Outstanding video!!! I have a samsung slide in oven. It started overheating. Preheat the oven to 350 and it would go over 700 if I wanted it to. The Broil element would never cycle off. I replaced the control panel. It did stop overheating but now the bake element wont get hot all. The broil element is pumping out 240Volts. The bake element is only pulling 120. Can it possibly be that I received another bad control panel with a bad relay? Frustrating.
I had a buddy that bought a new board for his Samsung oven. It was doing weird things like that. He ended up ordering the wrong board designed for a different oven. Looks the same but works a bit different. As long as it is hooked up right it sounds like a bad board or the wrong one. Give us a call and we can look it up for you. Our parts line should be in the description.
My broiler died about 6 months ago, oven died two weeks ago on a 30 y.o. Thermadore gas cooktop, electric oven. I sent out the relay board about 10 years ago for same problem for rebuild and it worked. This time I sent it to same place for rebuild but only the oven is working. Broiler gets a little warm but that's all. Any ideas appreciated. Ty
My electric whitlpoool freestanding range oven the bake heating element stopped working I replaced it and still not working the broiler element works but not the bake ?
Man...for us single women who like to fix our own stuff...you have totally educated me! Thank you!
Good learning, how can I get the board diagram GE,
4 min in and you've given me more answers than any other video. Thank you!!
Ditto
@@positiveperspective41 You 😊😊
Thank you very much for this video..My gram is 80 years old and on a fixed income..Her GE is dealing with this issue and she was worried about spending money that she doesn’t have..After watching this video I now know what I need to repair...Keep the video’s coming brother 🙏🏾🙏🏾👍🏾
Damn man. This is gold! Super clear and concise and no stupid music. Subscribed.
Thanks to your helpful video, I diagnosed my oven issue. It was the DLB relay, something I never knew about. This led me to either replacing the entire control board $400, buying a replacement oven $$$ or learning how to source parts, desolder relays and solder new relays onto circuit boards. AMZ had the relay for $10 and my oven is now working as intended. Thanks again!
You have made this very simplistic. I have been an appliance tech for over 40 years, and you have taken the fear factor out of it for the Do it yourself’r
thanks for posting your video. I just checked my brothers kenmore and found the 110v terminal to the relay on the board needed to be resoldered.. works perfect again. His wife is pissed off as she wanted a new range...lol thanks again.
Brother, you rock! Excellent, clear explanation, great diagram. Walked me right to the source of my problem -- the relay for the L2 failed, and once I removed and inspected the control boar,d I found that the relay failure actually damaged the PCB of the control board -- cooked a couple traces right off the board! Thank you for your top quality content!
Great video. Thanks for your help. My broil element was the only thing not working on mine. With the help of a couple of your videos, I was able to determine that it was my control board. I tested continuity on both elements and both legs of the power using your videos and the diagram on the back of the unit. I also checked the thermistor which was working correctly also. Now if you can just tell me how to troubleshoot and repair my control board since they don't make it any more! LOL! Thanks again for the great videos.
For those of us that can understand a very basic schematic, this is THE best description of how these ovens work. I can now see it in my head and feel comfortable I can diagnose why I lost both broil and bake at the same time. Thank You!! I have two questions - 1.) Geographically, where should I look for the fuse on L2, and is it obvious it is a fuse and not a fusible link or something like that? 2.) If I determine either type of the old/new relays is bad and I have the skill, can I just get the part number off the relay and remove and replace it without replacing the board or is it better to replace the board assembly?
Most of the time you find that fuse on the back wall. Unless its a frigidaire. They are sometimes on the top of the cavity, which is underneath the cooktop on a range.
As for repairing boards, I am not that guy that can tell you a bad relay is bad. I can guess but that is as far as I can go. As for the part number, yes you should see it on the needed relay.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair Thank you. I look forward to learning more from you. You would be a great College, High School, or Trade School Teacher.
Dude thank you so much for this lesson. This helped me out a lot on my next call coming up.
Your explanations were very helpful and informative. I guess I have a special issue. I checked all test points you referenced, all were good. My issue was the Relay on the Oven Motherboard not working properly, sticking. But, your instructions helped me greatly to diagnose the problem and eliminate the normal failure items. Thanks again!
My broil and bottom element don't work. I checked for continuity and it was good. The weird thing is each side is getting 120 and it's not heating up. Hmmm I have a back middle element and heats up . Hmm
Excellent job breaking that down. Turned out you are right on the money my DLB relay had failed. I temporarily jumper out the relay to confirm the diagnosis and the bake and broil element worked. I guess in theory you could replace the relay on the board or just replace the board. That video was definitely worth a Subscribe
Excellent, I like the laid back instructions. Great digesting it. Keepem coming!
You can fix anything as long as you know how it works. That’s the key to these puzzles.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair The broiler on my electric Kenmore range(around 20 years old) heats up (the element glows red) but will kick off well before reaching 500 degrees. It heats fine on bake though. The ohms checked out good on the element and temp sensor, so what would make it stop calling for heat before the oven reaches temp when using the broiler? Thank you
Loved the video. Was using I while working on my no broil and no bake heating element issue. None of these issues were the problem though, wanna guess what it was? Limit thermostat for the cooling fan! Bypassed it for testing purposes and the oven fired right up with the broiler as well.
Excellent video. I was able to find the (red) DLB relay on the control board for my GE oven/microwave combo, then found the burn marks on the other side. I found the relay online for $10 and replaced it. All good now. THANK YOU.
Great video. L2 was the issue with my wall oven. Loose wire connection in the junction box. Was fooled by the fact the display showed ok. Thank you!
Amazing video! I have a thermador electric oven that only runs on broil even when it set to regular bake! Any ideas ?
Thank you
I have a silly question how do you test that fuse?
Explained like a champ, like a champ so helpful!!!!
Wow what a great explanation. Thanks very much. You solved my issue.
Very well done, keep up the good work!
Thanks… so easy to follow and solved my problem after attaching my meter to the oven element. Found that when the rely tripped no current went to the element. Bad connection in the L2 connector. Thanks man you saved me 200 bucks,”.
I’m having an issue with just my bake element. First off the element OHMs out at 21 which is the same as my working broil element. When I turn the oven on I get 240 on the element for 15 seconds then I loose it after hearing a relay click. After loosing the 240 I check each side of the element to ground and I’m getting 120 on each side. Do you have any recommendations on where I should look next? Could the element ohm out good but not hold up to the load? I’m scratching my head here. Thanks for any help
This is fantastic info!
I have an old, whirlpool rb270pxbq1 double, wall insert oven. First the bake heat went out. It would only get to around 100 degrees, then crapped out all together. However, the broiler still worked like a champ. Then out of the blue the broil stopped heating up too. I haven't check anything out yet. My bottom oven still bakes and broils. The top oven, all the controls still work, but again, no heat. What would cause one to partially work, then not work; broiler worked then not at all?
I'm also having a hell of a time finding that this oven even exists according to the internet.
Make sure your element are ohming good. Should be somewhere around 30 ohms. If they are open than its simply bad elements.
If they test good, and this sounds like an old one, You probably need a new thermostat for it and I hope you can find one. I condemned an old oven this week because it was one of those parts you cannot get anymore.
thanks, you're a good teacher
I was so happy to run across this and it made so much sense! Thank you.
However, when I went to go test my non working oven when h tested each side of the baking element terminals, I got 120v on each side. However when test both of them together I get nothing?!!! How is that even possible? The broiler and the baking element not working, and I definitely have 240v coming into the oven. The heat fuse does have continuity. Ugh!
I could have sworn I would have been able to effectively troubleshoot after this video, but wasn’t expecting to see 120 on each side of the element when I tested volts with ground.
Any other things to troubleshoot?
Thanks for this detailed video.I have Inglish stove. Bake element ( bottom one) works perfectly fine.Broil element comes on and off ,some time it goes off after 5 minutes, some times it doesn't work at all .
If your element tests good. I believe broil element are somewhere around 15 ohms. 15-30ohms. If it is there than I would think it would be a relay on the board failing. Keep in mind during the bake sequence, the broil element is only used for preheat. Afterwards it should not come back on. Broil element should only work in broil and for preheat on bake.
I don’t think mine has a fuse. It’s not getting 240 at the element but it is at the plug connections. Should I replace the board?
Bto you are very talanted in explaining. I got it very well. I am learning applaince repair
Great video. Replaced the bad element. It was fried. With new element, took 60 minutes to get to 240 degrees. Put broiler on heated real slow too. Multimeter showed fuse and sensor (1086) had continuity. Outlet showed120 and 120. I think it’s the board because of bad rely or relays.
Thanks for the dryer (bravo xl) element repair. My detect light doesn’t go out and no heat. Do you Think it is the heating element or the airflow detection circuit?
Excellent video. The oven elements (inc broil) of our 20 yr old MAYTAG stove (model MER5770BCW) have stopped working and we removed the back panel. But we cannot locate the fuse to check if it is the problem. Videos seem to show a small two bladed fuse screwed in the back of some MAYTAG stoves but we don't see anything like that on ours, or any kind of fusible link in the wiring. Is there an obvious location for the thermal fuse or somewhere else where we should be looking? Any advice would be appreciated.
Great info and as you said my stove works everywhere the top and lights, all but oven light and heat. I guess it would be the fuse as well right ANYBODY?
I have 240V on both bake and broil elements when control is set to BAKE/BROIL. When set to BAKE at any temp setting other than BROIL, I get a about 60 volts on both the bake and broil elements. What do you think is the broblem? Thanks for your assistance and great video.
Hi, I just replaced my heating element and control board on my Whirlpool oven yesterday. It got up to 425 degrees temp for dinner last night and then i went to make cookies later in the night at 350. It never got up to temperature again. Please advise. 6-21-23
Thank you
On Whirlpool double ovens with the fuse easily accessible behind the user interface, I do not replace those with the OEM fuse. I instead use a Dacor or Samsung resettable fuse. I just cut some spacers out of 1/4 inch copper tubing and screw it down right behind the grate where air comes in on it's way to the cooling fan so the customer can just reset it instead of having to pay for another repair for the same thing next Thanksgiving. It pissed off my employers as they would miss out on the future call. I started my own business and treat my customers better.
Great educational video. Helped me figure out my problem
This video was so Helpful, and I’m thinking it’s going to be my Bake Element Relay since the Broil works but not the bake element, can you just order the bake element relay alone or would I have to order the whole control board?
Thanks
Thanks for this very suthing to listen to you .
Unfortunately my Samsung flex oven NE58F9710WSIAC doesn't seem to have any fuses. I tested all oven elements, temperature sensors, temperature fuse. I get 120v on all elements if I measure one side and ground. If i measure both leads together I get like 5v I should be getting 240v there correct? Stove top works fine.
Thanks for the video! My oven Kenmore 48089 only seems to have a high limit thermostat switch near the fan. I tested continuity on it and it's good. The only thing that doesn't work are the heating elements. All controls and everything work. Any idea?
Are the fuses different than regular fuses? Do they reset ? I installed a new control panel and the ovens (dual) shut off after it reaches certain temp I also get no error code and the burners work fine. I am stuck with a new control panel and no ovens. There are other smaller control boards back there (Frigidare) but I am thinking it's some safety feature that shuts off the ovens for some reason.
Thanks for a great explanation. My problem is the broiler element is not working. Bake works. Element has good conductivity. Must be the relay board.
I have both good elements. I have 120 only on one side of both elements. The side that has nothing connects to both elements. I can't find a fuse on this Frigidaire oven unless it's hiding somewhere. I don't see it in the schematics. So I am sure it must be a relay that failed the control board . Your video definitely helped.
This video helped me! Oven lights and control panel was working, but no bake/broil. L2 power feed was loose in the breaker panel. Thanks!
Only the display works on mine and I can't use the stove or oven...I was able to hear some electeical short noises everytime I turned on the stove for the past week then it died. I still have the clock display, lol. Should I check to see if anything is lose on the terminal block? Or where did you find your solution? Thanks in advance!
What about not holding temp or intermittently work’s right? I have tested everything and everything tests good.
My aunt has an older whirlpool oven.. recently her broil element stopped working.. I got another one.. the new one doesnt work either.. I looked it up and got a universal element receptical but when I got into the back, there wasn't one.. it just had wires going to the bake and temp knobs..
Thank you. Helpful video!
I work for apartment maintenance and the resident is not from America and swears the oven is broken because both (top, bottom) elements are not on simultaneously. I, born in America and only ever used conventional electric ovens just knew the oven on bake used the bottom and broil setting was the top. Idk we just renovated so I’m new to this whirlpool oven.
I have an older model Roper oven/stove (model ree32303) No digital display, only turn nobs. The oven element works but runs hot (about 50F higher than what it’s set for). The broil element does not work at all. Could it be the fuse? It does not have the old fashioned fuses that you screw in.
What would cause a light to be on in a GE built in but still no heat? Fuse & door switch? Just the door switch?
I have a double oven and the bottom element blew into and lit up the house. I replaced the element but it want work. All other 3 elements work. Fuse is ok. Did I blow the control board? On the right end there is a resistor that plugs into board. It looks discolored but no hot spots on board anywhere. It appears that the board is working as far as function but bottom element don't work.
Great video. Thanks for this.
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I have a Whirlpool double wall oven which the top half stopped heating. The display works fine and the lower half bakes fine. The day the top-half smells, the over stopped heating and I smelled a burning plastic smell that went away. Is that the bake element or the fuse that made it smell like burning plastic?
Good info, but you did not cover my problem. The bottom broil element on Our KEBS209 Kitchen Aid Double Oven does not work. Also the bake on the bottom is very slow heating and does not get above 250. I bake a lot of bread products at 450 degrees and have not used the clean function since February.
I'd like to know when "Modern Day" began. The term modern day telling which diagram would be used relies on when the stove was made, without knowing at least roughly what would be considered "modern day" it's difficult to know which diagram would be applicable for a stove made around 2010.
Great video man! I've got one for you. Got a broil element that won't come on. Bake element works fine. I've checked continuity on the element. Fine. Checked continuity on the temperature sensor. Fine. Checked power. It's got 240 (obviously since the bake element comes on). I've even checked continuity at the plug into the board with each wire to the element. Fine.
That leaves me with the board or wiring. Any other tips before I order a new board?
Great question, I’ve got the same exact problem.
If you happen to figure it out, I’d greatly appreciate knowing your solution.
Thanks!!!!!
@@theresapetersen2676 it ended up being a bad relay on the board. And nobody around me does that kind of work, so I would have had to replace the board, and on that model it wasn't worth replacing, so we bought a new one. Good luck!
My Amana 18 year old wall oven is shutting down. Set 350 put items in and shuts down after awhile. Thinking Board? And the drumb rolls beat
Where exactly will I find the fuse
Thanks for the info
Very helpful
Excellent video, explains simply the whole big issue. I have samsung electric stove and could not dind the fuse, if you or anyone in the thread can help out to locate. Thanks
I have a very old wall double oven and the top oven doesn't work but the bottom works fine. if a element will not work would that cause the light not to turn on? what I mean by light i mean the power light. when I turn the knob a light turns on.
So how much would you typically charge?
Hello, great explanation, you may be the guy to ask about my oven.
The oven is a 20 year Maytag Gemini (MER6769BAW,) the problem is that when the lower oven is on, the top oven heats very slowly, never reaching the preset temperature.
If the top oven is used alone, it heats at the normal rate of 5 degree every thirty seconds.
After viewing your video, I applied a digital voltage meter to measure the voltage between ground and a terminal on each of the four heating elements. The only voltage I get on each element is 124 VAC. I never get 240 VAC on either the top two elements or the bottom two elements even when either the bottom oven or the top oven is operating normally, ie: heating at the above rate,
The service harness terminals both show the correct voltage of 124 VAC
After viewing your video, I expected to find what you had stated about L1 and L2. I can hear the relays "making" as the oven or ovens heat up, but the 124 VAC readouts never change.
Although unable to duplicate your results, but based on your analysis, I suspect the circuit board needs repair or replacement (both services are available.)
Is there any other possible explanation?
Thank you for your video, very helpful, and I hope after three years since t was place on YT, you are still available!
Awesome video. Can you do one on if only one element is working and/or not getting to temp.
Very helpful..thank you brother
Hi I have a Frigidaire stove all burner's work the control panel has no power at all no lights any idea thanks 👍
well done on this video.
Thank you for a great video.
Would the double line break relay be built in to the control board? I have 120 on each leg coming in to the stove and following them right from there to the control board they measure 84 volts (oven turned off) at the board. L1 side of the element gets 120 when oven is turned on while L2 gets nothing. There's no fuse between the element and the control board so is it also built in to the control board (no replaceable fuse seen on the board)?
Very good job with this. My Kenmore oven is pre- heating very slowly and never gets hotter than 200 f. I'm not sure if it might be the bake element or the broil element. The bake element is hidden underneath the bottom so I can't see it, but also the broiler element doesn't get hot when set to broil. Am I correct in assuming it is not the fuse because it is heating just very slowly and doesn't get up to temp. I am wondering if a faulty temp sensor might cause this particular problem and maybe the elements are both ok.
Did you find out what was wrong? My kenmore is doing the same thing.
ua-cam.com/video/5rSmKJpcvDA/v-deo.html
My bake element is the only one not working. I just replaced the fuse and it still won’t work. Where/how do I check L2 voltage?
Great reassurance 9 out 10 its the fuse then other possibilities.
Why does the dlb relay terminal on the element side of the relay have continuity to neutral?
Thanks! Great overview! Well done!
0
What would I do if L2 is out?
Is each line on it's on fuse?
As well is there any easy way to test a relay?
Thanks for the amazing video.
Have a double jennair oven , while the bottom oven works fine and and the top oven doesn't seem to work neither the bake or the broil, so I made sure the bake and broil elements are working. Swapped them with the bottom ones and it still didn't work.
There was power coming in at the bake element, as when I was removing the bake element I hit metal and Bam the fuse blue
Forgot to turn off the electric.
So there's some electric coming in at the bake , even through o would suspect the fuse to be bad.
Seems like I'm going to have to pull the oven out of the wall.
Do you have any videos on how to read wire diagrams? Always wanted to learn that technique, I found it amazing to be able to read that info.
I have a 22 year old Kenmore oven, bottom element stopped working, i tried to change the element and still doesnt work, top element works fine.. what could be the problem? the control board? or something else?
Im having this problem with my oven. Both elements wont heat up. Do all ovens have a thermal fuse? I baked a casserole at 400 and then the next day no heat. Im hoping its not the board.
Thanks lots to learn
Thank you, I like the instructions its work.
Hello there I need a serious help here when I use broil my oven the top element working fine but when the time I use bake the top element is not working
thank you for this video...very helpful :)
Thanks buddy, great video it helped.
I’m not gay but dude You are already my favorite fix it dude!!! Awesome man stay cool
Maybe just a little!
I'm having an issue with my electric double oven the maytag gemini and both top and bottom bake functions will not work. I've bought new elements and still nothing. Checked thermal fuse and contacts on control board everything is clean. It just takes forever on bake to heat up like 4 hours and never fully heats up but I tested the voltage last night to everything and its showing I'm not getting any voltage to the bake elements at all. I'm now lost on what it is or how to test what it could be
say if i didn't have L2 could all of my top elements still work,seems to be the case?
Model #FEFL79JQB - FRIGIDAIRE Electric Range, bake and broil not heating at all but cook top are fine and this model has no fuse I think , should I replace the board?
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My bake works but top element does not come on until I turn it on broil. It gets red hot on broil but doesnt come on when we set clean or bake. Three year old Kenmore.
Would you know where I can find a burner tube and igniter for a Modern Maid PHO103-UD double gas oven or equivalent parts?
This is great oven but the burner tube has a rotted area and needs to be replaced. I was told its not available from the MFG but was wondering if there was an equivalent.
Awesome job thank you so much
Loved the information. Great description, is there a way to demo those checks?
My kenmore oven automatically turns on - very dangerous.
It has an oven digital control board.
Is it because the board went bad? Shorted?
Great video! I am trying to diagnose my issue with my maytag oven. When I turn the oven on to preheat, it heats up very quickly and the broiler element stays on the whole time. Making my oven too hot. Could this be due to my baking element being out? The baking element is not exposed for me to see if it is heating up or not.
Sounds like a stuck relay on the board to me. The elements do what the board tells it to.
For the hidden bake element, when you turn it on, you should feel a little bit if heat coming through the bottom. It can take up to a minute before you feel it though.
From what it sounds like it is getting to hot due to the broil element not shutting off. Which tends to be the control board that causes that issue. Verify the bake element is working and change the board. It should work for you after that.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair Thank you. I tried to replace the temperature sensor, but that was not it..
Thanks so much I will try to replace the control board.
What about when the board don't even light up? Is it the L1?
Outstanding video!!! I have a samsung slide in oven. It started overheating. Preheat the oven to 350 and it would go over 700 if I wanted it to. The Broil element would never cycle off. I replaced the control panel. It did stop overheating but now the bake element wont get hot all. The broil element is pumping out 240Volts. The bake element is only pulling 120. Can it possibly be that I received another bad control panel with a bad relay? Frustrating.
I had a buddy that bought a new board for his Samsung oven. It was doing weird things like that. He ended up ordering the wrong board designed for a different oven. Looks the same but works a bit different. As long as it is hooked up right it sounds like a bad board or the wrong one. Give us a call and we can look it up for you. Our parts line should be in the description.
My broiler died about 6 months ago, oven died two weeks ago on a 30 y.o. Thermadore gas cooktop, electric oven. I sent out the relay board about 10 years ago for same problem for rebuild and it worked. This time I sent it to same place for rebuild but only the oven is working. Broiler gets a little warm but that's all. Any ideas appreciated. Ty
What if your bake element is working and your top broil element is not?
My electric whitlpoool freestanding range oven the bake heating element stopped working I replaced it and still not working the broiler element works but not the bake ?