Funny how gas car owners fill-up before a winter storm but EV owners seem to be lobotimized. Norway high high EV adoption and not near the problems. Good tips you posted in the video.
Hey Jim! I hope you’re having fun! I make the same trip 6 days per week- mostly highway. It’s 45 miles, one way, to work. Winter in TN is usually mild, but last year we had several weeks of single digit F cold. With that kind of cold, and trip- EV range drops will be closer to 50%. I saw efficiency drop fro 3.8 to 2.7 kWh/mi. The cabin air heater in the Bolt goes down as low as 60F, so I had to turn it off periodically. I was in winter clothes. I work outside, or inside without heat- so I have multiple layers on. I have heated steering and seats, and yes, I used those as well. My rule was when I could see my breath, I’d turn the heat on. I blame most of the range drop on the battery chemistry. In the future, better battery chemistry should reduce this problem, and we’ll be looking back at the old NiMnCo batteries like comparing a flat head Ford to a 427 SOHC. It might seem like my figures are far off 50%, and that’s true, but during those cold days I was not traveling at 70 mph, but more like 55 mph where my efficiency is typically much higher than 3.8, and even now my daily efficiency is closer to 4.2 mi/kWh. People in much colder climates will know this. Also, I charge nightly, and instead of timing my charge, I reduce the current to charge at the slowest rate I can to have the car ready. During the winter, I had to change this habit because none of the heating works in the Bolt if the L2 charger is set for less than 32 amps. As an electrician, I strongly suggest that people check their electrical equipment, turn off the breaker, pull out the receptacle, check to see if the screws are tight, and insulation is not damaged, if you can safely check your breaker screws- do that before the winter. All things electrical loosen up over time- especially continuous loads like EV chargers because the conductors heat up, expand, then cool off and contract. If your 14-50 receptacle is not a Bryant or Hubbell, then before winter is a good time to change it for the industrial version. Beware of Bryant residential 14-50, the way you tell the difference is that the industrial screw terminals will use Allen socket screws instead of Phillips/flat head screws. I can provide part numbers if anyone wants them. Happy days in Many ways to you!!!
Your observations about battery chemistry and range loss are spot-on! It's exciting to think about how advancements in that area will make EVs even more practical in all weather.
Seat heaters use about 50 watts, whereas the cabin heater uses about 6,000 watts. Heat pump is closer to 2,000 watts but still way more than seat heaters.
I have sacrificed about 0.1 miles per kWh with the new tires, but the increased traction in rain is well worth that sacrifice. I often have my grandchild in the car, and safety is my first concern!
Three weeks into our Bolt EV ownership, and my wife is doing her commute in this rather than a Honda Odyssey Minivan at 19 miles/gallon. She's loving the heated steering wheel and seat, which the Honda lacked. We're both loving the 2.5c/mile running cost. In an ICE vehicle the cabin is heated using excess heat from the running engine. Most of the year that heat is just wasted. This also means you can't have cabin heat until the engine has been running for a while. In an EV you can have it instantly if you wish. In an ICE vehicle seats and steering wheels are heated electrically from the 12V battery, which is recharged constantly via the alternator. Excess electricity generated is just wasted.
Both my Blazer ev and Bolt EUV have heated steering wheels that automatically engages when the cabin temperature drops low enough. Also in both cars the heated and cooled seats comes on automatically depending on the cabin temperature.
Funny how gas car owners fill-up before a winter storm but EV owners seem to be lobotimized. Norway high high EV adoption and not near the problems.
Good tips you posted in the video.
Hey Jim! I hope you’re having fun!
I make the same trip 6 days per week- mostly highway. It’s 45 miles, one way, to work. Winter in TN is usually mild, but last year we had several weeks of single digit F cold. With that kind of cold, and trip- EV range drops will be closer to 50%. I saw efficiency drop fro 3.8 to 2.7 kWh/mi. The cabin air heater in the Bolt goes down as low as 60F, so I had to turn it off periodically. I was in winter clothes. I work outside, or inside without heat- so I have multiple layers on. I have heated steering and seats, and yes, I used those as well. My rule was when I could see my breath, I’d turn the heat on. I blame most of the range drop on the battery chemistry. In the future, better battery chemistry should reduce this problem, and we’ll be looking back at the old NiMnCo batteries like comparing a flat head Ford to a 427 SOHC.
It might seem like my figures are far off 50%, and that’s true, but during those cold days I was not traveling at 70 mph, but more like 55 mph where my efficiency is typically much higher than 3.8, and even now my daily efficiency is closer to 4.2 mi/kWh. People in much colder climates will know this. Also, I charge nightly, and instead of timing my charge, I reduce the current to charge at the slowest rate I can to have the car ready. During the winter, I had to change this habit because none of the heating works in the Bolt if the L2 charger is set for less than 32 amps.
As an electrician, I strongly suggest that people check their electrical equipment, turn off the breaker, pull out the receptacle, check to see if the screws are tight, and insulation is not damaged, if you can safely check your breaker screws- do that before the winter. All things electrical loosen up over time- especially continuous loads like EV chargers because the conductors heat up, expand, then cool off and contract. If your 14-50 receptacle is not a Bryant or Hubbell, then before winter is a good time to change it for the industrial version. Beware of Bryant residential 14-50, the way you tell the difference is that the industrial screw terminals will use Allen socket screws instead of Phillips/flat head screws. I can provide part numbers if anyone wants them.
Happy days in
Many ways to you!!!
Your observations about battery chemistry and range loss are spot-on! It's exciting to think about how advancements in that area will make EVs even more practical in all weather.
Also, don't forget to check your tire pressure. Consumer reports says it can go down 1 PSI for every 10 degree Fahrenheit drop.
Yes, tire pressure is important all year long, but especially in cold weather.
Seat heaters use about 50 watts, whereas the cabin heater uses about 6,000 watts. Heat pump is closer to 2,000 watts but still way more than seat heaters.
My snow tires will go on next month. That will be an additional drag on range but critical during a Minnesota winter.
Truth! Snowy driving will also reduce the mileage in a gasoline powered horseless carriage!
What are your thoughts regarding the new tires on your bolt? When comparing to the stock tires.
I have sacrificed about 0.1 miles per kWh with the new tires, but the increased traction in rain is well worth that sacrifice. I often have my grandchild in the car, and safety is my first concern!
@@jimsEVadventures regarding your new tires on the bolt. Any improvements in road noise, comfort, road handling?
Three weeks into our Bolt EV ownership, and my wife is doing her commute in this rather than a Honda Odyssey Minivan at 19 miles/gallon. She's loving the heated steering wheel and seat, which the Honda lacked. We're both loving the 2.5c/mile running cost.
In an ICE vehicle the cabin is heated using excess heat from the running engine. Most of the year that heat is just wasted. This also means you can't have cabin heat until the engine has been running for a while. In an EV you can have it instantly if you wish.
In an ICE vehicle seats and steering wheels are heated electrically from the 12V battery, which is recharged constantly via the alternator. Excess electricity generated is just wasted.
It’s the little things that make EVs so much better.
here's another tip: wear your coat and gloves in the car and dont use any heat at all!
That is a great idea!
Both my Blazer ev and Bolt EUV have heated steering wheels that automatically engages when the cabin temperature drops low enough. Also in both cars the heated and cooled seats comes on automatically depending on the cabin temperature.