If anyone watching this has a 22re it would be the same steps but the filter is under the intake plenum mounted on the motor you can try getting around it with specialty tools but its worth pulling it off to check for clogs anyway.
Had the same problem with mine, the engine side line fitting is a pain to tigh straight , no room to work with, thinking of relocating that filter, changing a filter should be a 30 min max job, but in these 2gens can go up to 4 hrs
Agreed. This fix is still holding pretty well but I think if it fails again I'm going to run better flexible line tank to engine bay with a better filter mounted vertically if possible.
@@roughcutsgarage work for me too, best fix to go with since theres not a lot of spots to safely relocate the filter, except for meaby above the parking brake bracket closer to the gas tank, but I would have to make new lines
I was just looking at this job yesterday and I couldn't figure out how ANY of my wrenches could possibly access that engine-side flare nut on the fuel line. The chassis cross-member is really in the way along with the underside of the body (thinking, how could a really short wrench give enough leverage?) If the wrench has to be at a severe angle, then a line wrench (the safe way) won't fit. I'm lucky, this job not started yet nor necessary (yet) but I'd love to hear more specifics as to exactly which wrenches (one for the flare nut and another on the filter) and techniques were used in this video or other ideas for very unique wrenches. Thanks much (1992 4Runner SR5 V6, 4WD, made in Japan for US, not California).
@@dougmeyer184 Hey thanks for commenting. It Definity wasn't easy, I used a bit of liquid wrench before doing the job to loosen the nuts up. That helped a lot. One other thing I did was unscrew the more accessible nut first, then took the bolts off of the bracket holding the filter in hopes of spinning the filter while holding the nut on the less accessible nut. This also helped.
@@roughcutsgarage Unfortunately, I've been living with this fuel filter for about 15 years b/c a mechanic rounded off the upstream (tank side) flare nut, so I'll have to either replace the hard line to the tank or do something like you did. But the engine side really had me puzzled. I just now learned of the "line wrench socket"! (Socket with an opening for the line.) Never seen one before and no idea where to buy. Another video used a crows foot (but the video image unconvincing). I was thinking of a wrench with a swivel or hinge connected to a crows foot somehow. Yes, I'll plan on using PB Blaster for many days in a row before even trying this. Many thanks again for the video, at least it got me thinking way in advance...
This would be a good field repair but I wouldn't trust it long term. The brass fitting you used is tapered, while the original steel fitting is straight, so they are not technically compatible. Even if the thread pitch is the same, it was very loose. This is why copious amounts of teflon tape were needed to make a seal. At 8:56, it looks like the original fuel line uses a double flare type fitting, which is the same as most brake lines. The steel tube itself forms a female cone that is tightened against a machined male counterpart inside the filter port. This makes for a metal to metal seal that can reliably hold high pressure. Something you want on a gasoline EFI Fuel Line. A better solution is to replace the entire fuel line back to the connection. If you can't get OEM fuel lines, you can get new lines in pre-cut lengths that already have the fittings and double-flare ends. Being a Toyota, these are likely metric lines and fittings, which Lordco should have (look in the same rack they sell brake lines). You will have to bend the new lines yourself, but they're meant to bend easily. As an example, I made new transmission cooler lines for my truck using 3/8" steel tubing. To do the repair, you'll have to remove the old line as in tact as possible, without bending it. Then use it as a template to bend the new line so that it matches the original. It doesn't have to be perfect, so long as it can still be routed and secured to the same attaching points without snagging or rattling against anything. You might get lucky and find a pre-cut length off the rack that is close enough that you won't have to trim it. If you do have to trim it, there are double-flare tools you can get relatively cheap and do it yourself. The flaring takes a little practice but it's not too difficult. Might also be a good idea to check your brake lines. If the fuel lines are this rusty, the brake lines won't be much better.
Yeah I agree, haven't had any problems since but our motive eventually is to put a diesel in her so a temporary fix was kind of what we had the budget for. New 4runner lines are hard to come by but if we wanted to keep her gas then we would have done a stock replacement.
You are saying for your job? I'm not sure thread tape is the right thing to use but it's what I had in hand. The reason being I have my fingers crossed a chunk of it doesn't flake off in the line on the downstream side and clog my system. If you can find something better then feel free to comment on the vid so everyone can learn thanks!
All of my warning lights are off and I haven't checked for codes. I just figured it was time to replace it since we noticed it had never been replaced in the vehicles history.
If anyone watching this has a 22re it would be the same steps but the filter is under the intake plenum mounted on the motor you can try getting around it with specialty tools but its worth pulling it off to check for clogs anyway.
Had the same problem with mine, the engine side line fitting is a pain to tigh straight , no room to work with, thinking of relocating that filter, changing a filter should be a 30 min max job, but in these 2gens can go up to 4 hrs
Agreed. This fix is still holding pretty well but I think if it fails again I'm going to run better flexible line tank to engine bay with a better filter mounted vertically if possible.
@@roughcutsgarage work for me too, best fix to go with since theres not a lot of spots to safely relocate the filter, except for meaby above the parking brake bracket closer to the gas tank, but I would have to make new lines
I was just looking at this job yesterday and I couldn't figure out how ANY of my wrenches could possibly access that engine-side flare nut on the fuel line. The chassis cross-member is really in the way along with the underside of the body (thinking, how could a really short wrench give enough leverage?) If the wrench has to be at a severe angle, then a line wrench (the safe way) won't fit. I'm lucky, this job not started yet nor necessary (yet) but I'd love to hear more specifics as to exactly which wrenches (one for the flare nut and another on the filter) and techniques were used in this video or other ideas for very unique wrenches. Thanks much (1992 4Runner SR5 V6, 4WD, made in Japan for US, not California).
@@dougmeyer184 Hey thanks for commenting. It Definity wasn't easy, I used a bit of liquid wrench before doing the job to loosen the nuts up. That helped a lot. One other thing I did was unscrew the more accessible nut first, then took the bolts off of the bracket holding the filter in hopes of spinning the filter while holding the nut on the less accessible nut. This also helped.
@@roughcutsgarage Unfortunately, I've been living with this fuel filter for about 15 years b/c a mechanic rounded off the upstream (tank side) flare nut, so I'll have to either replace the hard line to the tank or do something like you did. But the engine side really had me puzzled. I just now learned of the "line wrench socket"! (Socket with an opening for the line.) Never seen one before and no idea where to buy. Another video used a crows foot (but the video image unconvincing). I was thinking of a wrench with a swivel or hinge connected to a crows foot somehow. Yes, I'll plan on using PB Blaster for many days in a row before even trying this. Many thanks again for the video, at least it got me thinking way in advance...
This would be a good field repair but I wouldn't trust it long term.
The brass fitting you used is tapered, while the original steel fitting is straight, so they are not technically compatible. Even if the thread pitch is the same, it was very loose. This is why copious amounts of teflon tape were needed to make a seal.
At 8:56, it looks like the original fuel line uses a double flare type fitting, which is the same as most brake lines. The steel tube itself forms a female cone that is tightened against a machined male counterpart inside the filter port. This makes for a metal to metal seal that can reliably hold high pressure. Something you want on a gasoline EFI Fuel Line.
A better solution is to replace the entire fuel line back to the connection. If you can't get OEM fuel lines, you can get new lines in pre-cut lengths that already have the fittings and double-flare ends. Being a Toyota, these are likely metric lines and fittings, which Lordco should have (look in the same rack they sell brake lines). You will have to bend the new lines yourself, but they're meant to bend easily. As an example, I made new transmission cooler lines for my truck using 3/8" steel tubing.
To do the repair, you'll have to remove the old line as in tact as possible, without bending it. Then use it as a template to bend the new line so that it matches the original. It doesn't have to be perfect, so long as it can still be routed and secured to the same attaching points without snagging or rattling against anything. You might get lucky and find a pre-cut length off the rack that is close enough that you won't have to trim it. If you do have to trim it, there are double-flare tools you can get relatively cheap and do it yourself. The flaring takes a little practice but it's not too difficult.
Might also be a good idea to check your brake lines. If the fuel lines are this rusty, the brake lines won't be much better.
Yeah I agree, haven't had any problems since but our motive eventually is to put a diesel in her so a temporary fix was kind of what we had the budget for. New 4runner lines are hard to come by but if we wanted to keep her gas then we would have done a stock replacement.
Thanks for your comment. The more info on these things the better.
@@roughcutsgarage Diesel swap would be cool. BTW, I think I spotted your 4-runner on the road in Campbell River today. Hope you had a good run.
@@grndiesel Haha thanks!
Should of used line wrenches on the hard lines
Yeah I still need to get a set of those for sure.
Should have gotten a flaired fitting to the fuel line and also pipe sealant and thread tape…
You are saying for your job? I'm not sure thread tape is the right thing to use but it's what I had in hand. The reason being I have my fingers crossed a chunk of it doesn't flake off in the line on the downstream side and clog my system. If you can find something better then feel free to comment on the vid so everyone can learn thanks!
Were you getting any codes prior to replacing it? Mine is starting to do the same thing except it starts. I’m getting code 25
All of my warning lights are off and I haven't checked for codes. I just figured it was time to replace it since we noticed it had never been replaced in the vehicles history.
@@roughcutsgarage thanks for the reply. Gonna do the fuel filter and clean the injectors.