Thanks for clarifying. Godox’s, B&H’s and Adorama’s sites all list 2.5mm as the sync port size. Looks like it’s a Godox typo that was copied and pasted without the content writer checking. 3.5mm sync cords are way more easier to find than 2.5mm (for those using a hard wired setup).
@@smaercsstifsimI bought this product from B&H and I am using it. sync is 2.5mm. 2.5mm socket is cheap and easily broken. They should have used a more durable 3.5mm socket. The mount for Sony cameras is also plastic. I'm worried if the plastic stand will break while mounting it to my camera before shooting.
Quick hint about the scratched up screens.... You can use a soft shammy leather and some Brasso polish to quickly return the screen to almost pristine condition depending on how deep the scratches are. Most light scuffs buff right out with a couple of minutes of polishing.
Awesome! I never used and never recommended the Adorama version of the Pro II because it was bulkier and they had a messier layout in my opinion. With this new updated transmitter I can easily recommend it. The ability to control the modeling lamps is crucial to my night photoshoots.
The controls of the R2 Pro II were faster than the first X Pro for me. Size seems irrelevant when it's sitting in a hot shoe on a body that weighs significantly more than either trigger.
I love this trigger, I just wished Godox made a built-in rechargeable battery for it and upgraded to a touchscreen (not sacrificing the present real estate like they did on the X3).
Very helpful Rob, I have mine on pre-order where I am. They only have them currently for Canon, Nikon and Sony and I’m waiting for the Olympus/Panasonic version. Looks like it’s got some very useful features. Can’t wait to receive it.
Nice review. I was hoping a bigger jump ahead in terms of construction quality, including the use of OLED and the unification of the Canon and Nikon units. Basically, matching Westcott. In any case, Godox is killing it.
Fun fact: I have two FlashPoint R2 Pro Mark IIs. One came with the locking mechanism and other with the screw-down mechanism. The screw-down is a PITA.
Hey, at least you've got a little slice of photo history! I still have an X2T prototype that had an LED AF assist beam and double tap group functions. Only one of those out there. I also have a unique AD-B2 and a beauty dish that had it's production cancelled lol. Recently I got a little bummed out because someone broke my AD200 that Godox sent me before the company grew rapidly. One of the few golden units that came to the US ahead of launch. These things are basically my version of classic car memorabilia.
Does anyone have trouble using this trigger with the Godox App ? Mine does not work at all. The main reason I upgraded to this XProII is to be able to use it with the App
I really like that legacy hot shoe option! This way you can easily use old film cameras. Right now I´m using an adapter which only features the central pin with my X2 Trigger.
Yeah they really do a good job making this compatible with anything. Legacy godox equipment. Older camera gear. PC connection. It does X series well and can be repurposed to fit any job.
@@robhallphoto What about rtx16 on sk300 and ms300 old flashes without internal receivers built in? Do you still control modelling light,, power settings and sound cause the x pro could not and was not talked about anywhere. The older XT32 still shines because it can handle newer and older flashes while the x pro was only for newer generation.
I suppose I should've at least have mentioned this two years ago, but a feature I would have loved in this model is a 90 degree tilt of the interface. There are times when I am setup on a tripod where this trigger is kinda useless since I cannot see the top of the screen so I bought the XT trigger for that
Same here, I think it would be great to be able to change the tilt. A solution to this problem apparently is to use second trigger. One sits on the camera and another one you can keep in your hand. You change the power of the lights with the trigger in your hand and when you take the shot the trigger on the camera will trigger the lights. I wish I could trigger the camera remotely as well :)
I recently purchase a new X pro II N trigger. Everything is working fine in iTTL mode. My issue is when I switched to manual mode the unit isn't controlling my flash output. I'm using a Nikon Z9 with a Nikon speedlight SB-910. Im also using a X1R-N receiver along with my S Pro II -N. Thanks in advance for any response to my question.
Is it built any better than the original xpro? I have snapped so many of them in half over the years. The place where the shoe mount meets the camera is a definite weak point.
I've been using 2 of the original XPro for quite a few years and have found out the dial on them are not sensitive at all. To change any output I had to use 2 hands to balance the pressure when I turn them, and hope it will change. I liked the X2T much better. Has this dial been improved in the version II?
nice presentation but not obvious from it to understand why we should buy the new one. is the shoe improved for sony camera like new V1S ? what about bluetooth functions ?
I’m not here to make a case for why people should buy one because everyone’s preferences, workflows, current transmitter, condition of current transmitter, and budget are different. The added functionality is described (double tap, bluetooth connection, modeling lamp control), and users can decide if those changes are worth it for them to upgrade. The shoe on Sony models is currently plastic and I’ve heard inconsistent responses from Godox on whether it will be changed to metal.
So, in theory you can use the trigger mode along with the PC sync to fire the camera through the app in Bluetooth if your camera doesn't have that capability?
Quick question, Can you trigger the camera AND flashes at the same time from another Godox trigger in your hand? If so, which settings should I turn on...
The camera is triggered by the pins on the hotshoe. You can just buy a cheap Vello wireless camera shutter button and trigger the camera which will trigger the lights rather than triggering the camera through the light trigger
What about rtx16 on sk300 and ms300 old flashes without internal receivers built in? Do you still control modelling light,, power settings and sound cause the x pro could not and was not talked about anywhere. The older XT32 still shines because it can handle newer and older flashes while the x pro was only for newer generation.
We actually change channel all the time, so it's a bummer to see it moved into the menu. Every single wedding we find the best channel. But also we'll have a dance floor set up on one channel and a second set up (usually one light in a softbox) on another channel. That's what we grab for the random group shot or details. So we'll go back and forth.
@@robhallphoto Good point. I don't have the new one to try yet. I believe one of the older models went from "Ch/Zm" to "Zm/Ch," either with a firmware update or when I upgraded. That was the real bummer. It would be nice to at least have the option to customize what's on that home screen. I'm sure for some modeling light control is important - but I can't imagine a scenario where I need to adjust the power of the modeling light remotely.
I wonder this version has fixed the HSS on CANON Mirrorless cameras while used in any of the camera's auto settings (it only works in Manual mode - No Fun). What happens is that once you hit HSS shutter speed (1/200 of so) the flash only fires off at FULL POWER! This has been an ongoing issue since these cameras came out. Adorama has no solution either.
Because you're limited to one light type, you basically have to use FEC (flash exposure compensation) on the others. So if you have it set for a 300, you would want to do -1.0 EV on your 600 group (in addition to whatever FEC you want for your exposure).
Great review, thanks Rob. I would love to see a companion video running through the app (and comparing it to the Flashpoint R2 app which I find unreliable). I do a lot of architectural work and want to adjust light settings without touching the transmitter when shooting for multi-layered photoshop edits. A robust and reliable app would convince me to buy this transmitter.
B&H staff response: "Godox made the Godox XPro II TTL Wireless Flash Trigger for Sony Cameras with a plastic shoe. And some have changed but Godox does not list which ones have change or not."
@@JeremiahHawkins Damn. If it had the new metal shoe for Sony I would have upgraded. I'll just wait until the old version snaps and then get this one :)
No, it's the same cheap plastic foot and it's tight as hell. Very surprised they did not use the new metal foot you can get for the flashes. I stupidly assumed it would have the new foot but did not check before buying .
Very helpful and I like being able to go to 512. Will the Godox lights such as AD200 Pro, AD300Pro andAD400 automatically go at 512 or do the lights need a system update?
Have you been able to get the Xpro or Xpro II to work in TTL mode? I have owned both triggers for Sony, and neither work in TTL mode. All images are underexposed by 1-2 stops...but inconsistently. This is a well documented problem that's still unresolved. Godox did not repond to my past requests for help. Disappointing.
Wonderful insight and info...Looking into an on camera flash and trigger..do you recommend this new XProII or is the Godox X2T(Sony) still good?..I like that one detail of the X2 where it still has that extra hot shoe on top..so you can still put another flash as an option..lol
The X2T is still good, but I'll always prefer the slanted display/controls over a back display/controls; especially as a mirrorless user who often uses the LCD when my camera is below eye level. The only people I tend to recommend the X2T for is those who often tripod their camera above eye-level, and those that frequently use the hotshoe for something else, like an LED or mic to flip between photo and video. Personally I don't see the advantage of putting a flash on camera, because if you're using an X series flash you can use that as a master instead of the transmitter anyways.
Would've been nice if they backported some of the new stuff to the existing products - e.g. the double tap to toggle shouldn't be a hardware limitation and it should be possible to add it for example to the XPro via firmware (but in practice it last saw a firmware update almost 3 years ago).
I bought one for my Sony a7V I keep getting a message that says it's not supported. I've done all the things...turned off electronic front curtain using mechanical shutter red eye reduction off wireless flash off...what am I doing wrong? SO FRUSTRATING!
Thanks for the video (I waited for it for a couple of weeks). This new Godox seems to be much more simple than the latest Flashpoint (R2PRO II) and more like the R2PRO. I have the two of them so the question is, is it worth it to move from the R2PRO to this new Godox version and will they be branding it under the Adorama label? The R2Pro II has always been too complicated for an old man like me. Been a hobbiest for well over 50 years but I am that point where I tend to forget all those duplicating functions (if we may call them so) of the R2PRO II.-Thanks again.
Yes this is available through Adorama, branded as the R2 XPro II (linked in description). Whether it’s worth it to you completely depends on budget and if the changes are significant to you and your processes - and I can’t answer that for you!
Great when it works mine doesn't , i have a sony a7riiia and it just gives a message saying it's not compatible with the trigger tried everything still can't get it to work
TCM. For those of us that use more than one type of Godox monolight. Should it be set to strongest or weakest monolight in scene? (Let's say you use two AD200s, two AD400pros, and a 600BM, should it be 200, 400, or 600?)
Just me, but probably the strongest. To me, TTL and TCM are really only useful for your key light, given how Godox has implement multi-group TTL. It's similar to Canon's A+B+C, not their A:B C scheme. All the lights preflash together and are set to the same power setting. It's not individual group preflashes setting each group independently. That's why Godox needs to know which one you're going to prioritize for this. FEC will only work for precise group ratios if you have matched lights equidistant from your subject.
@@inkista That is positively not so on Nikon (I've used a high speed camera to test). Each of the three TTL groups (ABC, D and E are manual only) have a distinct and separate preflash a few MS apart, and their settings are handled independently. For me who regularly use an R200 as my fill (and thus changing distance a lot of the time), this is VITAL (being able to leave it at B: TTL -1,5 while locking the key)
@@sveinskogen1789 Yeah, I know. Nikon does it the right way. Godox's support for multiple camera systems means sometimes they may be hampered from implementing finer control like this because the hotshoe/flash/wireless communication protocol for this type of thing simply doesn't exist on all the brands. How they handle TCM and TTL group control is one of those, where the A+B+C method was something they could implement for everybody the same way. Also. Look at a TT685C and a Canon 600EX-RT sometime, side-by-side. To me, Godox is more Canon-based than anything else.
@@inkista probably because Nikon already had three groups (plus on camera) when they switched to iTTL way-back-when (and a rather advanced optical control system built into most of their cameras). As you may have guessed, I shoot Nikon. Which means I'm still wondering if the TCM setting should be for my AD200s or AD600 or AD400s...
I mean, I like my Godox stuff but this is one of those things that Elinchrom and Profoto don't make you deal with... Learning a new trigger layout every year is a PITA.
My problem with both Goddox and Flashpoint triggers is the complexity of updating the firmware and inability to do so with a Mac without using a workaround. Has this been addressed?
The G3 updater which has been used by Godox for all the V1 and newer gear runs on a Mac, but I believe the stated compatibility is for Catalina. No idea if it works for later MacOS versions. You still need the workarounds for the older gear. Though if it calls for G2 (and the firmware images files are DFS), and you're a UNIX command line geek, the open source dfs-util command line utility is an option, too.
Will the flash button trigger the RIKO400 AR400 Ring Flash because the original doesn't which means you can't monitor wirh a light meter whereas the X2T does - odd pay more get less features.
The Test button? I would assume if you use a bridge receiver (XTR-16) on the AR400 and the legacy groups on the transmitter, that the test button would fire the AR400. But I don't have either of the u nits to test this.
Very good review, thanks for this video. I have a question - I am assisting a couple of photographers that use the XPro I, and they are not yet too confident in setting the power for the external flash that I am handling. Therefore, I am constantly telling them what setting do they need for my flash. Is there a way for this trigger to override power setting communication so that I may manually set the external flash and keep it in that setting, even if the power setting on the XPro is different ? In other words, I want the flash power setting override the trigger power setting.
Any transmitter that you put in App mode (on XPro I) or L-858du mode (on XPro II) will function as "fire only" and therefore not update the flash power. So you can have 1 trigger that does adjust the flash power and any number of other triggers that will simply fire the flash at whatever the light is already set at.
Thanks for the video. Is the hotshoe at the bottom plastic or metal? Secondly, I saw another video saying that putting the trigger in legacy one pin mode helps with auto white balance as the trigger does not try to override the camera’s AWB with the flash’s AWB profile, can you comment on that please. 8:21
Currently plastic for Sony models. I've heard conflicting things regarding this. I was told ALL for-Sony devices were going to be metal. Then I was told triggers are staying plastic because the weight is less of an issue than speedlights. Then I was told I would receive metal versions of the trigger. It seems there is still not consensus on the future of production with Godox. As for the AWB issue, I believe that is a Canon-only issue? But I haven't tried AWB with flash in a decade either. Let me know if it's relevant to Sony and if so I can look into it.
I could not find more info on the AWD issue and the only video which mentioned this was showing a Nikon camera. One thing I did notice though is that I can not switch between prop and manual power for the modeling lamp using just the trigger. I can change the power in manual mode through the trigger but have switch between manual and prop on the flash itself. I am using the Godox trigger on Sony A7 iv and the flash if Flashpoint AD 400 pro. Did you face any such issue?
Hey Rob, Great video. I purchased the xii pro for Nikon. My trigger does not have the AF menu option for mirrorless or dslr. Any info on this why some triggers have and some don't.
I would expect it's because Sony (model in video) has dSLRs and Mirrorless cameras with the same shoe that use different pins or different signals to communicate AF assist.
@@robhallphoto I would think something like that but I saw the Nikon camera in the video with the trigger on it so it left me questioning even more since it was a Nikon camera.
The TCM in the menu is problematic. You have to go into the menu and then choose the flash that you are using. What if you have multiple lights? And then it will give you the manual showing of the light when you go to manual. But to turn it off, you have to go back into the menu. The old single button was much better!
TCM with multiple lights is problematic if your strobes don't match, but using TTL with multiple lights is rarely useful anyways. The only time TTL really works with multiple lights is with 2, key + on-axis fill. As soon as you apply TTL to an accent, rear, or background light, it's problematic because the camera can't "see" the light to choose an accurate power setting. There's also no metering mode that can assess the combination of those light patterns. Points and zones would be too small, matrix / evaluative would be too large.
@@gosman949 That's what I would suggest, because a camera can't tell with those other light sources. Rim lights / edge lighting don't have the area to be assessed by any metering mode. Background lights are obstructed by the subject so the TTL system will normally overexpose them.
With Godox's implementation of group TTL, it's really only useful for a key and fill lights. You can only set Groups A-C to TTL anyway. :) Canon's system (which I think is the basis for Godox's in some ways) allows for A:B C ratio setting, or A+B+C, but Godox has only implemented A+B+C, so instead of individual group preflashes and each group set independently, they all preflash together and all get set to the same power level (adjusted by FEC). That's why they have to know which light to prioritize. Groups D&E are manual only and always have been on Canon and Godox. And only Canon users had access to them prior to the V1. The TCM C.Fn is basically a one-time setting. Once you've said what the light is, to use TCM on this new trigger, you just have to switch the group from TTL to M, and the conversion is done automatically.
Hi there, I purchased the XPro II a few weeks ago with the hope that I could use my iPhone to trigger my AD300 but unfortunately it did not work. Any tricks that you can share.
Why would you want to trigger just a flash with a phone? Do you mean take a photo and have the AD300 fire? You can use a cheap Vello wireless camera trigger for that. If you just need to fire a light for some reason and not a camera then the trigger works on or off the camera, just keep the trigger in your hand and fire at will
Awesome review as always... I also have a question... I have a XPro-N... I have a Z9... Turned off my camera while the trigger was on... And the trigger now just is in an infinite fire state (where it keeps firing)... When I attach it back to the camera and turn the camera on... It works fine... Do you know what the problem could be???
That's strange, no signal should be sent to the hotshoe from the Z9 if your camera is off. I'm not really familiar with the Z series cameras, although I'd probably do the following to assess: Make sure the hot shoe is securely connected Take note of your battery percentage on the Z9. Keep the trigger on the camera and turn the camera off, with the trigger having a group active and a flash receiving the signal (i'd put the flash at minimum power). Let it run for a while, like 30 minutes. You can turn the flash off if it's annoying. Look at the transmitter and see if you see the red light flashing as it's firing. After 30 minutes turn the camera back on. If the camera lost some battery life, that means the camera is still sending a signal to the hot shoe after it's turned off, in which case it's either faulty, or has some type of setting on that sends a signal out. If the camera hasn't lost any battery life, then I would explore replacing the transmitter as it's faulty.
@@robhallphoto Thank you VERY much for the detailed reply: 1. The issue even persists when I have the trigger not on the camera. I take it out of my bag and turn it on… if a flash is on, the flash starts firing… And the red light flashes… if a flash isn’t on and only the trigger is on… then only the red light flashes but obviously no flash fires… 2. The very first time it happened was, when I had it on the camera… both camera and trigger were on… I turned the camera off but the trigger was on… the flash start firing at like 10 frames per second… it goes away when the camera is on and the trigger is attached to the camera… even when the camera goes on standby it starts firing…
apply a clear sticky on the glass. Mine usually comes with one that most people pull off. Mine didn't come with one which makes me believe that BH Photo had it returned and then sent to me!
If Sony is reading this, it's about time you fitted the new metal shoe to these triggers, I have had to take a file to the plastic shoe to make it easier to fit the Sony A71V hot shoe. This is a ridiculous thing to have to do, so Godox please correct this problem asasp
exactly, you have to go into the menu. The old ones had one button to push. And then when you go into the menu, you have to pick the flash that you have.
@@gosman949 Use the menu once to pick the flash/strobe you are using, it will remember it. Then just switch to manual mode and it will convert the settings from the last shot. You don't have to go into the menu every single time.
So camera mounted above you, transmitter in one hand and flash off camera? I don't think so, because that would require a wireless connection between the transmitter and the camera which I don't believe there is any compatibility for.
Hi, Does the XPro 2 trigger have the latest metal hotshoe fitted rather than the older plastic one. I would like the metal hotshoe for my sony A7M4 because the metal one attaches much easier than forcing the plastic one in
Does the sony version work better? Or does sony still create weird color temps with godox? I sold my sony A7iii because it was horrible with gogox i could get it to work with ttl without weird color temps. Someone in a sony group told me to use underwater color temp which is insane...
I've shot most Sony models (A7III, A7RIII, A7RIV, A7SIII, A9, A9II, A1) with Godox flash and never had a white balance issue. Kelvin temp to 5600 for general use, and change the kelvin if I gel the flash.
you might get better white balance (assuming you are using some auto WB to get that yellow) by utilizing the legacy hot shoe settings, as long as you are shooting full manual.
Just got my xproii-c yesterday. I did a side-by-side comparison with the old trigger, same settings on each. You can now use TTL and HSS simultaneously without it defaulting to full power. I'm using an R5.
The short answer is, natively you can't use multiple lights with the TCM feature. The longer answer is, you can resolve this by using TTL Compensation to balance them out. Say you have an AD200 and an AD400. The AD400 is 1 stop brighter than the AD200 (2x as powerful). So if you set your TCM for the 200j light (ad200), then you can use your 400 pro at -1.0 (reducing the compensation by 1 stop because the light is 1 stop more powerful). Or vice versa, set TCM for 400j and use the 200 pro group at +1.0. The BEST answer is, TTL shouldn't be used with multiple lights because no metering mode can accurately meter a set of lights beyond key and fill.
It's not advisable to use NiMH rechargeable batteries as their voltage tends to dip early which won't sustain the trigger. If you want rechargeable get Lithium Ion rechargeable and you'll go months on a trigger. That being said, when the Lion rechargeables eventually die they will do so with little to no battery indicator drop.
I thought the XPro sucked batteries as well, until I found a mention on a forum that it is not draining batteries, it’s the battery compartment is too big. The batteries wobble themselves off of the contacts. I put a 1/2”x1/2” piece of sticky-back velcro loops in the middle of the battery door and now the trigger runs forever on a single set of AA’s..
I was wondering the same thing. You do not have to go into the menu thats only to set the flash type. You take a photo in TTL then switch to manual and the correct power will be set automatically.
Well, if you're trying to use all the lights in TTL, yes, as it can do only one at a time. But, using multiple lights in TTL is problematic on its own.
I don't think so. To me, TCM is really only useful on the key light; maybe a key/fill if you have matched lights. They're doing the simpler A+B+C scenario, not the A:B C scenario. (Groups D&E cannot be set to TTL). All the lights preflash together and all the lights are set to the same power level in A+B+C. That's why the TCM setting is there: to prioritize which light you care about the most. In your situation, I'd set TCM to 600j. If you had two AD600s, for example, you could get close to setting 4:1 ratio by setting the AD600s as A&B, and Group A= 0EV FEC, and Group B -2EV FEC, if the lights are relatively equidistant from your subject. But this isn't the same as the more nuanced TTL group ratio control Canon/Nikon/Fuji/etc. do with their OEM systems. In A:B C on Canon, I could set A:B to be 4:1 with a background light at 1 with all three groups in TTL and each group would pre-flash and power just independently of the other groups. I believe Nikon does the same with CLS/AWL.
In TTL mode i have to set it to PLUS 3. This is with the new trigger and the old one and with both my V1's. It also happens with all three of my Sony cameras A9 A7iv A7Riii. TTL works fine off camera . Any Idea why? Please
No experience with that because I never use TTL. Given the comments on Sony white balance issues, TCM functionality, and this, I'll explore it so I can better respond to these comments.
@@robhallphoto It's not often I use TTL off camera but on the odd occasion I do its very poor. I think its a setting but I can see it. Odd that it's on three cameras two controllers and both my V'1s
There's a longstanding known bug with Sony and off-camera Godox flashes that TTL underexposes with apertures wider than f/4. The wider the aperture you use, the more FEC you have to dial in. This is a Sony-only bug. TTL works fine for everyone else. IIRC, Jinbei had a similar bug in their RT system (aka the Westcott FJ/Rollei Freeze lights). It's not you, you're not going nuts. It's a bug. The basic theory at this time is that Sony uses a variable-power preflash for TTL while everyone else uses constant and Godox therefore expects constant.
@@inkista I have just tested the new trigger in TTL at F2.8 up to f6.3. It's useless at all apertures on all my Sony bodies. Odd when TTL is so good on camera. I'm 90% sure it used to work. I would often do a TTL shot then convert to Manuel using TCM, which I found very useful , when speed is important like weddings.
But... does auto white balance work on Sony yet? Lol, it identifies the flashes wrong and throws AWB super off, annoying for shooting flambient real estate
No, it's the same cheap plastic foot and it's tight as hell. Very surprised they did not use the new metal foot you can get for the flashes. I stupidly assumed it would have the new foot but did not check before buying .
@@robhallphoto I don't think the newer Sony's have a larger hot shoe like you are suggesting . I have three Sony bodies including a new A7IV and the trigger is extremely tight on all my cameras. I do like the new metal feet for my V1's and would have thought it would be on this controller.
Hey ! Do you have a link for the Sony metal shoe trigger on Ali express ? Its difficult to see on the product page on Ali express if the hot shoe is really made of metal... Thanks !!
I think it was the connection between the Sennheiser lav mic and Rode Go II receiver. It was unfortunate as I recorded 4 videos with this setup and they all had this problem.
Owned 3 Xpro for Sony. All the mount broke, and the battery lid can drop very easily. Very very bad design. The interface also very confusing. What's worse the bottom mount broke while I took all the way overseas to cover an EVENT, and boy, it really RUINED my overseas trip/event!!! Now I owned Xpro II, which is much better and improved.
Sad but these triggers are clumsy. Don't know how it is on other systems, but this is ininovative and unintuitive 😂 . Cameras too. Smartphones has better features.
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
One Correction : I stated there is a PC sync jack on the side. It is a 3.5mm port, that you can use to connect to PC on a camera.
Thanks for clarifying. Godox’s, B&H’s and Adorama’s sites all list 2.5mm as the sync port size.
Looks like it’s a Godox typo that was copied and pasted without the content writer checking.
3.5mm sync cords are way more easier to find than 2.5mm (for those using a hard wired setup).
@@smaercsstifsimI bought this product from B&H and I am using it. sync is 2.5mm. 2.5mm socket is cheap and easily broken. They should have used a more durable 3.5mm socket.
The mount for Sony cameras is also plastic. I'm worried if the plastic stand will break while mounting it to my camera before shooting.
Which would you recommend between the Flashpoint R2 Pro MarkII vs Godox XPRO II? Can you do a comparison video?
Quick hint about the scratched up screens.... You can use a soft shammy leather and some Brasso polish to quickly return the screen to almost pristine condition depending on how deep the scratches are. Most light scuffs buff right out with a couple of minutes of polishing.
Awesome! I never used and never recommended the Adorama version of the Pro II because it was bulkier and they had a messier layout in my opinion. With this new updated transmitter I can easily recommend it. The ability to control the modeling lamps is crucial to my night photoshoots.
but it is bulky. I have one.
The controls of the R2 Pro II were faster than the first X Pro for me. Size seems irrelevant when it's sitting in a hot shoe on a body that weighs significantly more than either trigger.
@@markkempton4579 yepper but every gram counts!
Yeah they really needed to update this modeling lamp control, the old one did some strange stuff to the newer lights.
This is the best feature review of the Xpro ii! Godox should buy this clip from you and use it instead of their beautiful but inarticulate review
I love this trigger, I just wished Godox made a built-in rechargeable battery for it and upgraded to a touchscreen (not sacrificing the present real estate like they did on the X3).
Very helpful Rob, I have mine on pre-order where I am. They only have them currently for Canon, Nikon and Sony and I’m waiting for the Olympus/Panasonic version. Looks like it’s got some very useful features. Can’t wait to receive it.
Hopefully you get it soon, it's a nice jump!
Nice review. I was hoping a bigger jump ahead in terms of construction quality, including the use of OLED and the unification of the Canon and Nikon units. Basically, matching Westcott. In any case, Godox is killing it.
I have snapped so many triggers where the body meets the mounting point on the original Xpro. Let's up this one is better built.
@@devineimageworks Thats why im buying a new one. Maybe the snap, saved the camera during the fall, lol
User Presets is a great addition!
Yeah I could see a lot of people using hypersync or repetitive setups appreciating that addition.
I have one and I’m digging it! Strobe pro had ‘em quick.
Yeah they did, they also have a very extensive (i think 50+ minute) guide on it.
@@robhallphoto oh wow haha. They are very thorough.
Fun fact: I have two FlashPoint R2 Pro Mark IIs. One came with the locking mechanism and other with the screw-down mechanism. The screw-down is a PITA.
Hey, at least you've got a little slice of photo history! I still have an X2T prototype that had an LED AF assist beam and double tap group functions. Only one of those out there. I also have a unique AD-B2 and a beauty dish that had it's production cancelled lol. Recently I got a little bummed out because someone broke my AD200 that Godox sent me before the company grew rapidly. One of the few golden units that came to the US ahead of launch. These things are basically my version of classic car memorabilia.
This is so odd. I JUST ordered this like 2 minutes ago and got a notification for this video. 😂
Those are some serious browser cookies.🤣
Any differences with the adorama version? And do they use the new metal hot-shoe?
Does anyone have trouble using this trigger with the Godox App ? Mine does not work at all. The main reason I upgraded to this XProII is to be able to use it with the App
I really like that legacy hot shoe option! This way you can easily use old film cameras. Right now I´m using an adapter which only features the central pin with my X2 Trigger.
Yeah they really do a good job making this compatible with anything. Legacy godox equipment. Older camera gear. PC connection. It does X series well and can be repurposed to fit any job.
@@robhallphoto What about rtx16 on sk300 and ms300 old flashes without internal receivers built in? Do you still control modelling light,, power settings and sound cause the x pro could not and was not talked about anywhere. The older XT32 still shines because it can handle newer and older flashes while the x pro was only for newer generation.
Is there a TCM setting?
I suppose I should've at least have mentioned this two years ago, but a feature I would have loved in this model is a 90 degree tilt of the interface. There are times when I am setup on a tripod where this trigger is kinda useless since I cannot see the top of the screen so I bought the XT trigger for that
Same here, I think it would be great to be able to change the tilt. A solution to this problem apparently is to use second trigger. One sits on the camera and another one you can keep in your hand. You change the power of the lights with the trigger in your hand and when you take the shot the trigger on the camera will trigger the lights. I wish I could trigger the camera remotely as well :)
I recently purchase a new X pro II N trigger. Everything is working fine in iTTL mode. My issue is when I switched to manual mode the unit isn't controlling my flash output. I'm using a Nikon Z9 with a Nikon speedlight SB-910. Im also using a X1R-N receiver along with my S Pro II -N. Thanks in advance for any response to my question.
Does the XPro 2 have a metal or plastic hot shoe?
Hi Rob, would you know if the Godox X pro for sony fits better than the previous one? My X pro is very tight fitting with the Sony a7 iv.
snug on an A1 but easy enough to get on and off.
Do you prefer R2 Pro Mk2 or R2 XPro 2 ? I need to choose. Is XPro higher quality? Thank you.
Well.. Does this new version have TCM option..?
did you watch the video?
Is it built any better than the original xpro? I have snapped so many of them in half over the years. The place where the shoe mount meets the camera is a definite weak point.
I've been using 2 of the original XPro for quite a few years and have found out the dial on them are not sensitive at all. To change any output I had to use 2 hands to balance the pressure when I turn them, and hope it will change. I liked the X2T much better. Has this dial been improved in the version II?
nice presentation but not obvious from it to understand why we should buy the new one. is the shoe improved for sony camera like new V1S ? what about bluetooth functions ?
I’m not here to make a case for why people should buy one because everyone’s preferences, workflows, current transmitter, condition of current transmitter, and budget are different. The added functionality is described (double tap, bluetooth connection, modeling lamp control), and users can decide if those changes are worth it for them to upgrade.
The shoe on Sony models is currently plastic and I’ve heard inconsistent responses from Godox on whether it will be changed to metal.
So, in theory you can use the trigger mode along with the PC sync to fire the camera through the app in Bluetooth if your camera doesn't have that capability?
Quick question, Can you trigger the camera AND flashes at the same time from another Godox trigger in your hand? If so, which settings should I turn on...
The camera is triggered by the pins on the hotshoe. You can just buy a cheap Vello wireless camera shutter button and trigger the camera which will trigger the lights rather than triggering the camera through the light trigger
What about rtx16 on sk300 and ms300 old flashes without internal receivers built in? Do you still control modelling light,, power settings and sound cause the x pro could not and was not talked about anywhere. The older XT32 still shines because it can handle newer and older flashes while the x pro was only for newer generation.
We actually change channel all the time, so it's a bummer to see it moved into the menu. Every single wedding we find the best channel. But also we'll have a dance floor set up on one channel and a second set up (usually one light in a softbox) on another channel. That's what we grab for the random group shot or details. So we'll go back and forth.
Navigating "Menu > ok > ok" (considering channel is the first option and the menu saves your position) is faster than the hold function on the Xpro.
@@robhallphoto Good point. I don't have the new one to try yet. I believe one of the older models went from "Ch/Zm" to "Zm/Ch," either with a firmware update or when I upgraded. That was the real bummer. It would be nice to at least have the option to customize what's on that home screen. I'm sure for some modeling light control is important - but I can't imagine a scenario where I need to adjust the power of the modeling light remotely.
I wonder this version has fixed the HSS on CANON Mirrorless cameras while used in any of the camera's auto settings (it only works in Manual mode - No Fun). What happens is that once you hit HSS shutter speed (1/200 of so) the flash only fires off at FULL POWER! This has been an ongoing issue since these cameras came out. Adorama has no solution either.
it doesnt work on canon R6 HSS+TTL
@@dariuszmaciejewski7272 Thanks - So nothing has changed in that regard.
@@Cphoto1954 no, and i have all godox, quadralite transmiters and none od them is working
But what shoud we choose for TCM if we're working with multiple lights with different power output? Ad600, ad300...
exactly good question. The old button was better.
Because you're limited to one light type, you basically have to use FEC (flash exposure compensation) on the others. So if you have it set for a 300, you would want to do -1.0 EV on your 600 group (in addition to whatever FEC you want for your exposure).
Great review, thanks Rob. I would love to see a companion video running through the app (and comparing it to the Flashpoint R2 app which I find unreliable). I do a lot of architectural work and want to adjust light settings without touching the transmitter when shooting for multi-layered photoshop edits. A robust and reliable app would convince me to buy this transmitter.
Sure Eric, I haven't made dedicated content on the app(s) in a very long time so I'll definitely work on an upgrade. Thanks for the suggestion!
Does it have the new metal hotshoe? That's pretty important if deciding to buy :)
I came here to ask the same thing.
B&H staff response: "Godox made the Godox XPro II TTL Wireless Flash Trigger for Sony Cameras with a plastic shoe. And some have changed but Godox does not list which ones have change or not."
@@JeremiahHawkins my Nikon one does.
@@JeremiahHawkins Damn. If it had the new metal shoe for Sony I would have upgraded. I'll just wait until the old version snaps and then get this one :)
No, it's the same cheap plastic foot and it's tight as hell. Very surprised they did not use the new metal foot you can get for the flashes. I stupidly assumed it would have the new foot but did not check before buying .
Is there a screen protector that would fit most of the screen?
Very helpful and I like being able to go to 512. Will the Godox lights such as AD200 Pro, AD300Pro andAD400 automatically go at 512 or do the lights need a system update?
only goes as low as your lights natively do. only 1/256 on AD200 Pro
Have you been able to get the Xpro or Xpro II to work in TTL mode? I have owned both triggers for Sony, and neither work in TTL mode. All images are underexposed by 1-2 stops...but inconsistently. This is a well documented problem that's still unresolved. Godox did not repond to my past requests for help. Disappointing.
Wonderful insight and info...Looking into an on camera flash and trigger..do you recommend this new XProII or is the Godox X2T(Sony) still good?..I like that one detail of the X2 where it still has that extra hot shoe on top..so you can still put another flash as an option..lol
The X2T is still good, but I'll always prefer the slanted display/controls over a back display/controls; especially as a mirrorless user who often uses the LCD when my camera is below eye level. The only people I tend to recommend the X2T for is those who often tripod their camera above eye-level, and those that frequently use the hotshoe for something else, like an LED or mic to flip between photo and video. Personally I don't see the advantage of putting a flash on camera, because if you're using an X series flash you can use that as a master instead of the transmitter anyways.
@@robhallphoto thank you Rob..ive always enjoyed your expertise and well informed "flash photography" content..
do they have a universal trigger?
Thanks for the infightful videos. What tripod are you using for hangig the cam overhead?
It is a C - Stand with a Grip arm, don't forget your sandbags
Would've been nice if they backported some of the new stuff to the existing products - e.g. the double tap to toggle shouldn't be a hardware limitation and it should be possible to add it for example to the XPro via firmware (but in practice it last saw a firmware update almost 3 years ago).
Likely a contract issue, not a matter of firmware.
@@robhallphoto Contract with whom? Doesn't Godox manufacture and support those by themselves?
@@KamenMinkov Yes, but the first product to feature the double-tap functionality was the R2 Pro II, an Adorama exclusive.
I bought one for my Sony a7V I keep getting a message that says it's not supported. I've done all the things...turned off electronic front curtain using mechanical shutter red eye reduction off wireless flash off...what am I doing wrong? SO FRUSTRATING!
Thanks for the video (I waited for it for a couple of weeks). This new Godox seems to be much more simple than the latest Flashpoint (R2PRO II) and more like the R2PRO. I have the two of them so the question is, is it worth it to move from the R2PRO to this new Godox version and will they be branding it under the Adorama label? The R2Pro II has always been too complicated for an old man like me. Been a hobbiest for well over 50 years but I am that point where I tend to forget all those duplicating functions (if we may call them so) of the R2PRO II.-Thanks again.
Yes this is available through Adorama, branded as the R2 XPro II (linked in description).
Whether it’s worth it to you completely depends on budget and if the changes are significant to you and your processes - and I can’t answer that for you!
@@robhallphoto Many thanks
Hi, what do the USB type-c and the PC sync jack do? What are they for?
Great when it works mine doesn't , i have a sony a7riiia and it just gives a message saying it's not compatible with the trigger tried everything still can't get it to work
i have an issue with Xpro S , it almost always changes my WB , is there any fix to that ?
TCM. For those of us that use more than one type of Godox monolight. Should it be set to strongest or weakest monolight in scene? (Let's say you use two AD200s, two AD400pros, and a 600BM, should it be 200, 400, or 600?)
Just me, but probably the strongest. To me, TTL and TCM are really only useful for your key light, given how Godox has implement multi-group TTL. It's similar to Canon's A+B+C, not their A:B C scheme. All the lights preflash together and are set to the same power setting. It's not individual group preflashes setting each group independently. That's why Godox needs to know which one you're going to prioritize for this. FEC will only work for precise group ratios if you have matched lights equidistant from your subject.
@@inkista That is positively not so on Nikon (I've used a high speed camera to test). Each of the three TTL groups (ABC, D and E are manual only) have a distinct and separate preflash a few MS apart, and their settings are handled independently. For me who regularly use an R200 as my fill (and thus changing distance a lot of the time), this is VITAL (being able to leave it at B: TTL -1,5 while locking the key)
@@sveinskogen1789 Yeah, I know. Nikon does it the right way. Godox's support for multiple camera systems means sometimes they may be hampered from implementing finer control like this because the hotshoe/flash/wireless communication protocol for this type of thing simply doesn't exist on all the brands. How they handle TCM and TTL group control is one of those, where the A+B+C method was something they could implement for everybody the same way. Also. Look at a TT685C and a Canon 600EX-RT sometime, side-by-side. To me, Godox is more Canon-based than anything else.
@@inkista probably because Nikon already had three groups (plus on camera) when they switched to iTTL way-back-when (and a rather advanced optical control system built into most of their cameras). As you may have guessed, I shoot Nikon.
Which means I'm still wondering if the TCM setting should be for my AD200s or AD600 or AD400s...
I mean, I like my Godox stuff but this is one of those things that Elinchrom and Profoto don't make you deal with... Learning a new trigger layout every year is a PITA.
My problem with both Goddox and Flashpoint triggers is the complexity of updating the firmware and inability to do so with a Mac without using a workaround. Has this been addressed?
The G3 updater which has been used by Godox for all the V1 and newer gear runs on a Mac, but I believe the stated compatibility is for Catalina. No idea if it works for later MacOS versions. You still need the workarounds for the older gear. Though if it calls for G2 (and the firmware images files are DFS), and you're a UNIX command line geek, the open source dfs-util command line utility is an option, too.
Mac is the problem..switch to windows and be free
Will the flash button trigger the RIKO400 AR400 Ring Flash because the original doesn't which means you can't monitor wirh a light meter whereas the X2T does - odd pay more get less features.
The Test button? I would assume if you use a bridge receiver (XTR-16) on the AR400 and the legacy groups on the transmitter, that the test button would fire the AR400. But I don't have either of the u nits to test this.
Very good review, thanks for this video. I have a question - I am assisting a couple of photographers that use the XPro I, and they are not yet too confident in setting the power for the external flash that I am handling. Therefore, I am constantly telling them what setting do they need for my flash. Is there a way for this trigger to override power setting communication so that I may manually set the external flash and keep it in that setting, even if the power setting on the XPro is different ? In other words, I want the flash power setting override the trigger power setting.
Any transmitter that you put in App mode (on XPro I) or L-858du mode (on XPro II) will function as "fire only" and therefore not update the flash power. So you can have 1 trigger that does adjust the flash power and any number of other triggers that will simply fire the flash at whatever the light is already set at.
@@robhallphoto Thank you !
Thanks for the video. Is the hotshoe at the bottom plastic or metal? Secondly, I saw another video saying that putting the trigger in legacy one pin mode helps with auto white balance as the trigger does not try to override the camera’s AWB with the flash’s AWB profile, can you comment on that please. 8:21
Currently plastic for Sony models. I've heard conflicting things regarding this. I was told ALL for-Sony devices were going to be metal. Then I was told triggers are staying plastic because the weight is less of an issue than speedlights. Then I was told I would receive metal versions of the trigger. It seems there is still not consensus on the future of production with Godox.
As for the AWB issue, I believe that is a Canon-only issue? But I haven't tried AWB with flash in a decade either. Let me know if it's relevant to Sony and if so I can look into it.
I could not find more info on the AWD issue and the only video which mentioned this was showing a Nikon camera.
One thing I did notice though is that I can not switch between prop and manual power for the modeling lamp using just the trigger. I can change the power in manual mode through the trigger but have switch between manual and prop on the flash itself. I am using the Godox trigger on Sony A7 iv and the flash if Flashpoint AD 400 pro. Did you face any such issue?
Does the XPro II fit the Sony 6500 hot shoe with the SmallRig full cage?
Or does the 2.5mm to usb cord like I use with my Godox TR-RX work when mounted on a cold shoe?
Great Review....but why can Godox use a clean and beautiful display like Profoto? The Godox Screens on their flashes are abismal.
Most likely to avoid doubling the cost of the transmitter.
I have two Cannon Speedlite 580EX II. Can I triger tham with Godax xpro II?
if you put X1-R receivers on them.
Hey Rob, Great video. I purchased the xii pro for Nikon. My trigger does not have the AF menu option for mirrorless or dslr. Any info on this why some triggers have and some don't.
I would expect it's because Sony (model in video) has dSLRs and Mirrorless cameras with the same shoe that use different pins or different signals to communicate AF assist.
@@robhallphoto I would think something like that but I saw the Nikon camera in the video with the trigger on it so it left me questioning even more since it was a Nikon camera.
@@johnmunnoweddings3594 yeah, both my Sony's were recording so I just used the Nikon as a means of setting the trigger up to be still and clear.
How do i get HSS with tt600 and xpro ll?
The TCM in the menu is problematic. You have to go into the menu and then choose the flash that you are using. What if you have multiple lights? And then it will give you the manual showing of the light when you go to manual. But to turn it off, you have to go back into the menu. The old single button was much better!
I have never used it but I was thinking it must be a pain the way it's set up here
TCM with multiple lights is problematic if your strobes don't match, but using TTL with multiple lights is rarely useful anyways. The only time TTL really works with multiple lights is with 2, key + on-axis fill. As soon as you apply TTL to an accent, rear, or background light, it's problematic because the camera can't "see" the light to choose an accurate power setting. There's also no metering mode that can assess the combination of those light patterns. Points and zones would be too small, matrix / evaluative would be too large.
@@robhallphoto so set the TTL and TCM manual mode on the key light, and then go from there?
@@gosman949 That's what I would suggest, because a camera can't tell with those other light sources. Rim lights / edge lighting don't have the area to be assessed by any metering mode. Background lights are obstructed by the subject so the TTL system will normally overexpose them.
With Godox's implementation of group TTL, it's really only useful for a key and fill lights. You can only set Groups A-C to TTL anyway. :) Canon's system (which I think is the basis for Godox's in some ways) allows for A:B C ratio setting, or A+B+C, but Godox has only implemented A+B+C, so instead of individual group preflashes and each group set independently, they all preflash together and all get set to the same power level (adjusted by FEC). That's why they have to know which light to prioritize. Groups D&E are manual only and always have been on Canon and Godox. And only Canon users had access to them prior to the V1. The TCM C.Fn is basically a one-time setting. Once you've said what the light is, to use TCM on this new trigger, you just have to switch the group from TTL to M, and the conversion is done automatically.
Hi there, I purchased the XPro II a few weeks ago with the hope that I could use my iPhone to trigger my AD300 but unfortunately it did not work. Any tricks that you can share.
Why would you want to trigger just a flash with a phone? Do you mean take a photo and have the AD300 fire? You can use a cheap Vello wireless camera trigger for that. If you just need to fire a light for some reason and not a camera then the trigger works on or off the camera, just keep the trigger in your hand and fire at will
Awesome review as always...
I also have a question... I have a XPro-N... I have a Z9... Turned off my camera while the trigger was on... And the trigger now just is in an infinite fire state (where it keeps firing)... When I attach it back to the camera and turn the camera on... It works fine... Do you know what the problem could be???
That's strange, no signal should be sent to the hotshoe from the Z9 if your camera is off.
I'm not really familiar with the Z series cameras, although I'd probably do the following to assess:
Make sure the hot shoe is securely connected
Take note of your battery percentage on the Z9.
Keep the trigger on the camera and turn the camera off, with the trigger having a group active and a flash receiving the signal (i'd put the flash at minimum power).
Let it run for a while, like 30 minutes. You can turn the flash off if it's annoying.
Look at the transmitter and see if you see the red light flashing as it's firing.
After 30 minutes turn the camera back on.
If the camera lost some battery life, that means the camera is still sending a signal to the hot shoe after it's turned off, in which case it's either faulty, or has some type of setting on that sends a signal out.
If the camera hasn't lost any battery life, then I would explore replacing the transmitter as it's faulty.
@@robhallphoto Thank you VERY much for the detailed reply:
1. The issue even persists when I have the trigger not on the camera. I take it out of my bag and turn it on… if a flash is on, the flash starts firing… And the red light flashes… if a flash isn’t on and only the trigger is on… then only the red light flashes but obviously no flash fires…
2. The very first time it happened was, when I had it on the camera… both camera and trigger were on… I turned the camera off but the trigger was on… the flash start firing at like 10 frames per second… it goes away when the camera is on and the trigger is attached to the camera… even when the camera goes on standby it starts firing…
@@mzeeshanchUnfortunately it sounds like the trigger is faulty, perhaps the test button smashed the actuator below and it's just being held down.
@@robhallphoto Thanks a million for helping and replying… Really appreciate it…
Is there a TCM button? I didn't see it Also if you need another negative how about attach the battery cover to the body. I always tape mine on
the TCM is in the menu as he describes. Cumbersome.
With it on in the menu simply toggle a group from TTL to manual.
Not working well with the Godox 860 II speedlights :-( anyone knows why?
How do the buttons feel? Are they as mushy as the other triggers? I think Godox needs to work on that screen material and button quality.
apply a clear sticky on the glass. Mine usually comes with one that most people pull off. Mine didn't come with one which makes me believe that BH Photo had it returned and then sent to me!
@@robhallphoto negative. Much beefier! Heavy.
Feels just like previous R2 Pro II
If Sony is reading this, it's about time you fitted the new metal shoe to these triggers, I have had to take a file to the plastic shoe to make it easier to fit the Sony A71V hot shoe. This is a ridiculous thing to have to do, so Godox please correct this problem asasp
Great video, only how do you switch on TCM on this trigger?
exactly, you have to go into the menu. The old ones had one button to push. And then when you go into the menu, you have to pick the flash that you have.
@@gosman949 Use the menu once to pick the flash/strobe you are using, it will remember it. Then just switch to manual mode and it will convert the settings from the last shot. You don't have to go into the menu every single time.
@@makahaj341 correct. But you don't want it on all the time. Have to go back into menu to turn it off.
User presets work?
No change CH button
Can you use the trigger to fire your flash with it off the camera in bluetooth say in your hand while your camera is above you in a top down shot?
So camera mounted above you, transmitter in one hand and flash off camera? I don't think so, because that would require a wireless connection between the transmitter and the camera which I don't believe there is any compatibility for.
Vello makes a wireless camera shutter trigger that works well
Hi, Does the XPro 2 trigger have the latest metal hotshoe fitted rather than the older plastic one. I would like the metal hotshoe for my sony A7M4 because the metal one attaches much easier than forcing the plastic one in
for what it's worth, I just bought sony version Nov 23 and it came with metal shoe, ask your retailer if possible.
Many thanks for the info
Did you mean October 23 @@JeffreyJDavis
@@MikeT-yy3 no I meant November 2023 (showed up this week, still had FW 1.2, I'm not sure when they transitioned to metal)
Wish they had a direct connection to sit a Speedlight on camera with the transmitter
That would be the X2T
The V1 acts as a trigger for other lights so not needed with that one at least, not sure about other Godox speedlights
Does the sony version work better? Or does sony still create weird color temps with godox? I sold my sony A7iii because it was horrible with gogox i could get it to work with ttl without weird color temps. Someone in a sony group told me to use underwater color temp which is insane...
I've shot most Sony models (A7III, A7RIII, A7RIV, A7SIII, A9, A9II, A1) with Godox flash and never had a white balance issue. Kelvin temp to 5600 for general use, and change the kelvin if I gel the flash.
you might get better white balance (assuming you are using some auto WB to get that yellow) by utilizing the legacy hot shoe settings, as long as you are shooting full manual.
will this do hss + ttl on canon’s R bodies? That is the big question.
it does on Nikon. I'm surprised that he didn't mention this important feature.
@@gosman949 Yeah. None of the other godox triggers will do it on an R5/R6. They fire at full power only.
@@riotrob I think you will find it will work on the Canons. I saw that on another channel.
@@gosman949 Thanks. Ive searched youtube and have yet to find a video showing that it does work.
Just got my xproii-c yesterday. I did a side-by-side comparison with the old trigger, same settings on each. You can now use TTL and HSS simultaneously without it defaulting to full power. I'm using an R5.
Question about TCM option.. what if I use different lights? Let say I have AD200 Pro and couple of speedlights?
The short answer is, natively you can't use multiple lights with the TCM feature.
The longer answer is, you can resolve this by using TTL Compensation to balance them out. Say you have an AD200 and an AD400. The AD400 is 1 stop brighter than the AD200 (2x as powerful). So if you set your TCM for the 200j light (ad200), then you can use your 400 pro at -1.0 (reducing the compensation by 1 stop because the light is 1 stop more powerful). Or vice versa, set TCM for 400j and use the 200 pro group at +1.0.
The BEST answer is, TTL shouldn't be used with multiple lights because no metering mode can accurately meter a set of lights beyond key and fill.
@@robhallphoto thanks for your reply, ah so this can be off when shooting manual :)
@@soundtempleAU Yeah it would have no impact on manual or TTL use. It's specifically when you want to convert the TTL power to manual setting via TCM.
Thanks. Shame we didn’t get a metal foot for Sony. Missed opportunity.
How is battery life? I have the previous version and it’s not usable with rechargeable batterie. They die very quickly. (Fuji version)
Get 1.5v rechargeable batteries and you won’t have a problem. I have had the same rechargeable batteries in for 6 months and they are still above 50%.
It's not advisable to use NiMH rechargeable batteries as their voltage tends to dip early which won't sustain the trigger. If you want rechargeable get Lithium Ion rechargeable and you'll go months on a trigger. That being said, when the Lion rechargeables eventually die they will do so with little to no battery indicator drop.
I thought the XPro sucked batteries as well, until I found a mention on a forum that it is not draining batteries, it’s the battery compartment is too big. The batteries wobble themselves off of the contacts. I put a 1/2”x1/2” piece of sticky-back velcro loops in the middle of the battery door and now the trigger runs forever on a single set of AA’s..
How do you actually activate the TCM function?
see my comment above
I was wondering the same thing. You do not have to go into the menu thats only to set the flash type. You take a photo in TTL then switch to manual and the correct power will be set automatically.
@@gosman949 you do not have to go into menu to activate it only to set the type of flash
@@nickwilliams7867 that is correct, but you do need to turn it on and off from the menu. Sometimes you may not want to leave it on.
With it on in the menu simply toggle a group from TTL to manual.
There are way too many triggers available.
Is TCM useless when mixing light models? (ie. AD600 Pro and 3 AD200 Pros)
Well, if you're trying to use all the lights in TTL, yes, as it can do only one at a time. But, using multiple lights in TTL is problematic on its own.
I don't think so. To me, TCM is really only useful on the key light; maybe a key/fill if you have matched lights. They're doing the simpler A+B+C scenario, not the A:B C scenario. (Groups D&E cannot be set to TTL). All the lights preflash together and all the lights are set to the same power level in A+B+C. That's why the TCM setting is there: to prioritize which light you care about the most. In your situation, I'd set TCM to 600j.
If you had two AD600s, for example, you could get close to setting 4:1 ratio by setting the AD600s as A&B, and Group A= 0EV FEC, and Group B -2EV FEC, if the lights are relatively equidistant from your subject. But this isn't the same as the more nuanced TTL group ratio control Canon/Nikon/Fuji/etc. do with their OEM systems. In A:B C on Canon, I could set A:B to be 4:1 with a background light at 1 with all three groups in TTL and each group would pre-flash and power just independently of the other groups. I believe Nikon does the same with CLS/AWL.
In TTL mode i have to set it to PLUS 3. This is with the new trigger and the old one and with both my V1's. It also happens with all three of my Sony cameras A9 A7iv A7Riii. TTL works fine off camera . Any Idea why? Please
No experience with that because I never use TTL. Given the comments on Sony white balance issues, TCM functionality, and this, I'll explore it so I can better respond to these comments.
@@robhallphoto It's not often I use TTL off camera but on the odd occasion I do its very poor. I think its a setting but I can see it. Odd that it's on three cameras two controllers and both my V'1s
There's a longstanding known bug with Sony and off-camera Godox flashes that TTL underexposes with apertures wider than f/4. The wider the aperture you use, the more FEC you have to dial in. This is a Sony-only bug. TTL works fine for everyone else. IIRC, Jinbei had a similar bug in their RT system (aka the Westcott FJ/Rollei Freeze lights). It's not you, you're not going nuts. It's a bug. The basic theory at this time is that Sony uses a variable-power preflash for TTL while everyone else uses constant and Godox therefore expects constant.
@@inkista I have just tested the new trigger in TTL at F2.8 up to f6.3. It's useless at all apertures on all my Sony bodies. Odd when TTL is so good on camera. I'm 90% sure it used to work. I would often do a TTL shot then convert to Manuel using TCM, which I found very useful , when speed is important like weddings.
But... does auto white balance work on Sony yet? Lol, it identifies the flashes wrong and throws AWB super off, annoying for shooting flambient real estate
use legacy hotshoe option
Will this fix the Sony problem that it's hard to put in or take off the shoe?
No, it's the same cheap plastic foot and it's tight as hell. Very surprised they did not use the new metal foot you can get for the flashes. I stupidly assumed it would have the new foot but did not check before buying .
Even though the shoe is plastic (more details above in pinned comment), this one is not tight on the newer Sony hot shoes.
@@robhallphoto I don't think the newer Sony's have a larger hot shoe like you are suggesting . I have three Sony bodies including a new A7IV and the trigger is extremely tight on all my cameras. I do like the new metal feet for my V1's and would have thought it would be on this controller.
@@nickwilliams7867 thanks. I almost ordered one. Adorable has been so shady lately. I have really stopped buying from them.
Can we now lock ttl with the trigger ?
Lock as in convert to manual via TCM? Yes, if TCM is on in the menu you simply change the group from TTL to manual after taking a TTL shot.
@@robhallphoto am talking about locking ttl not converting to manual .
@@OkwyUgonweze what is locking ttl?
Sony users: ordered one from Amazon = plastic shoe // ordered one from Ali express ($30 less) = metal shoe! (Retuned Amazon).
Hey ! Do you have a link for the Sony metal shoe trigger on Ali express ? Its difficult to see on the product page on Ali express if the hot shoe is really made of metal... Thanks !!
Why is your audio warbly?
I think it was the connection between the Sennheiser lav mic and Rode Go II receiver. It was unfortunate as I recorded 4 videos with this setup and they all had this problem.
Owned 3 Xpro for Sony. All the mount broke, and the battery lid can drop very easily. Very very bad design.
The interface also very confusing.
What's worse the bottom mount broke while I took all the way overseas to cover an EVENT, and boy, it really RUINED my overseas trip/event!!!
Now I owned Xpro II, which is much better and improved.
It definitely needs a screen protector
Dear God how complex.
Waste of money. Stick with the original version or, better yet, but the Flashpoint version from Adorama.
I have 858 flash meter. For me it is very useful to adjust the light from 858. A great advantage for me.
Why?
Sad but these triggers are clumsy. Don't know how it is on other systems, but this is ininovative and unintuitive 😂 . Cameras too. Smartphones has better features.
Smartphones are also a thousand dollars and don’t sit on top of your camera.
@@robhallphoto Not for a trigger but forntaking photos :)