Nice build. I did a similar build. I used my 4x7 utility (I should probably upgrade to a 5x8). I folded the gate inward so I can still pull it up to haul other things. I bolted down unistrut too. I already had J Bar racks that I had been using on the car. I bolted them to the unistrut. I works pretty well for my Moken 12.5 and 10. Kids kayaks can lay underneath as well. I'm thinking about adding the PVC bunks for a little easier loading especially when a car is parked on either side in the parking lot. I like that they can be moved to accommodate different number and sizes of kayaks. But I like having the space in the middle for my rod tube. I suppose the tube could hang down from the unistrut. I need to think about lengthening the tongue too. Nice walkthrough. Thanks for the ideas.
This is a nice modification. Simple, lean and effective, plus you retain the utility use of your trailer. My son and I are doing something similar to this, but using a galvanized small boat trailer. The uni-strut is pretty solid, makes for a great platform to mount the PVC runners on. Enjoyed the video. Thanks,
Nice job on the conversion, I liked the way you used the pvc. On my utility trailer, I pulled the loading ramp off (grind those end welds and punch the pin) and built a tailgate out of aluminum angle to reduce weight and noise. Go catch some bass!
As far as your "ball" on the Hitch, that is, iI bought one at Can. Tire that is exchangeable... I just pull the lock on top of the ball , pull the ball off and replace it with the other size ball ... so fast! Love the job you have done on that trailer... I am looking for ideas the fix me one.
Nice work, however the point of using PVC is so that it may bend and flex to accommodate the curvature of a kayak. With PVC this big.. it ain't flexing much, and with the center support piece in there it CERTAINLY ain't flexing any.
I had no intention for it to flex. The pvc rides along both sides of the keel along the supper holes. I could have done the same thing with 2x4s. Except wood rots and is more up keep. They are basically bunk boards not cradles.
@@adamwillby "They are basically bunk boards not cradles." Exactly, and this is what you should be trying to avoid. No judgement, this is simply an observation. You are forcing the kayak, which has a curved bottom, to conform to a flat rigid support; literally flattening out the kayak over time (especially in hot climates). It should be the other way around where the kayak is forcing the support to conform to its curved shape.
I have a 5 x 8 tractor supply that I did same to. Not the hitch end YET . My takes at 13 '. Do you transport with yaks loaded and seats in. I'm concerned with wear from vibration. Thank you
Good video and good info!! What's the weight of your boats? And do the pvc pipes seems to "roll" outwards under the weight of the kayaks? I'm thinking of trying this with my gheenoe but the gheenoes weight a little more than yaks, especially when loaded. Do you think this would suffice for a 120lbs vessel?
andrew louderback they weigh 100# empty. They don't roll under the boats due to the tunnels on each side of the hull on the Lures. It could easily handle much more weight.
Just finished mine too, been great all summer, no warping or discoloring. posted a video on my channel, its done nearly the same way. mofishyaker mod, good man. hey nice trailer btw, good job
Thank you sir. Your videos on this kayak 13.5 feel free, has been giving me all kinds of answers to my questions. Thank you for your uploads
I made mine almost just like your! Thanks for the help!
Nice build. I did a similar build. I used my 4x7 utility (I should probably upgrade to a 5x8). I folded the gate inward so I can still pull it up to haul other things. I bolted down unistrut too. I already had J Bar racks that I had been using on the car. I bolted them to the unistrut. I works pretty well for my Moken 12.5 and 10. Kids kayaks can lay underneath as well. I'm thinking about adding the PVC bunks for a little easier loading especially when a car is parked on either side in the parking lot. I like that they can be moved to accommodate different number and sizes of kayaks. But I like having the space in the middle for my rod tube. I suppose the tube could hang down from the unistrut. I need to think about lengthening the tongue too. Nice walkthrough. Thanks for the ideas.
This is a nice modification. Simple, lean and effective, plus you retain the utility use of your trailer. My son and I are doing something similar to this, but using a galvanized small boat trailer. The uni-strut is pretty solid, makes for a great platform to mount the PVC runners on. Enjoyed the video. Thanks,
Outdoors with Charlie thank you for the comment. that's a great idea to use an old boat trailer. I'm glad you liked the video.
I'm definitely going to steal your concept. Great video man!
Great videos.. i have watched several of your videos now. I'm getting one of these in the spring....
Nice job on the conversion, I liked the way you used the pvc. On my utility trailer, I pulled the loading ramp off (grind those end welds and punch the pin) and built a tailgate out of aluminum angle to reduce weight and noise. Go catch some bass!
i like your concept...im going to add a cap at the front and rear for rod storage
Well done buddy, I liked it ;)
Cheers!
Nice work. I like the mods you made so you can use this for its original purpose if needed.
As far as your "ball" on the Hitch, that is, iI bought one at Can. Tire that is exchangeable... I just pull the lock on top of the ball , pull the ball off and replace it with the other size ball ... so fast! Love the job you have done on that trailer... I am looking for ideas the fix me one.
I did the same but used 2x4 wood to run across and pvc for bunks
You could easily do a bike mod like mine too. its been a great saver on trips to the parks and ocean.
Nice work, however the point of using PVC is so that it may bend and flex to accommodate the curvature of a kayak. With PVC this big.. it ain't flexing much, and with the center support piece in there it CERTAINLY ain't flexing any.
I had no intention for it to flex. The pvc rides along both sides of the keel along the supper holes. I could have done the same thing with 2x4s. Except wood rots and is more up keep. They are basically bunk boards not cradles.
@@adamwillby "They are basically bunk boards not cradles." Exactly, and this is what you should be trying to avoid. No judgement, this is simply an observation. You are forcing the kayak, which has a curved bottom, to conform to a flat rigid support; literally flattening out the kayak over time (especially in hot climates). It should be the other way around where the kayak is forcing the support to conform to its curved shape.
3 ball hitch just flip it to the side and size you need if you want to haul a different size.
I have a 5 x 8 tractor supply that I did same to. Not the hitch end YET . My takes at 13 '. Do you transport with yaks loaded and seats in. I'm concerned with wear from vibration. Thank you
great video man very informative.
Looks great! How wide is that trailer to the outside of the fenders?
right about 7 feet.
Good video and good info!! What's the weight of your boats? And do the pvc pipes seems to "roll" outwards under the weight of the kayaks? I'm thinking of trying this with my gheenoe but the gheenoes weight a little more than yaks, especially when loaded. Do you think this would suffice for a 120lbs vessel?
andrew louderback they weigh 100# empty. They don't roll under the boats due to the tunnels on each side of the hull on the Lures. It could easily handle much more weight.
Just finished mine too, been great all summer, no warping or discoloring. posted a video on my channel, its done nearly the same way. mofishyaker mod, good man. hey nice trailer btw, good job
thanks man. I appreciate it. I'll check out your videos.
Sweet!!!
Where u get the bars ?
does the pvc howl as it goes down the road?
john snow no. not at all.
what did you use to drill the bigger top hole in the PVC?
hole saw like what you would use to cut a hole in metal.
how far apart are the pipes center to center?
Wireline .Cables 9in approximately.
Hi having the long draw bar will make it eazyer to reverse. ?
as for the pvc ill use timber as the pvc will crack after time. ?
I'm sure by now you've either beefed up the tounge of the trailer or it's bent or broke in half.
Bahahahaha, you are a GENIUS aren't cha? Or just a dumb fuck that think's he knows every damn thing!