I love that you look so smug/pleased with the process when something good happens. Thanks for the insight into the process. I have to make something big enough to pump water back into a large pond so CDs aren't going to do it for me, but it was a very interesting video and gave me some encouragement. Cheers.
It’s not show room ready but you’re really helping me prototype things through your efforts. I appreciate your willingness to show the difficult stuff that you’re encountering! Warts and wrinkles invade us all.
Instead of a bearing, you could put in a plug with an eye bolt. Then you attach a vinyl coated cable to the eye bolt and the other end of cable attached to an alternator. So, as the water turns the screw, the cable turns the generator rotor.
yep thats the thinking,the alternator doesnt care if its continuous or variable pulsed rotation, and your dumping that power into your caps/rms batteries buffer
it's always a pleasure to see what your creativity comes up with next. there was once a variety of bryozoan colony critter called an archimedes because it had the same structure, it's helix was a window screen looking structure that strained food for it out of the ocean, they are pretty fossils but only the central core & the edge of the helix are preserved.
You can easily install a second flight inside the first thus cutting the pitch in half and halving the force on the joints. You may find that this would reduce the water flow requirement by 50% while increasing the torque output significantly. I suggest the next generation use a metal inside tube to improve the rigidity and reducing necessary radial clearances to improve efficiency.
Great solution to the flexibility problem. Hope you had the exhaust fan going during the welding process (lol). I used to make crude sculptures from plastic scraps, using an alcohol burner. Fun, but odorous!
Fair play that’s great you could add a T joint at the top to add the flow with an end cap and a bearing I think the biggest issue is the rpm though they would need gearing up to the alternator
Great video . Your talent for making something out of nothing is incredible .I hope you noticed my second tip for holding tapers in a drill press it is easier than the first tip
If CD is 1mm. I would heat up 1mm staples with blow torch. Then try press them into the join. Bit of tape to cover the seam. Fabulous video, as always. Thank you.
have seen that Archimedes screws will pump, with the screw fixed, and the outside turning... Curious if that would work when fluid flow used to make it move.? large pulley driven by tube could then drive a belt going to small pulley to step up speed to a generator... or it could be possible to mount magnets to the outside of the tube, and use them to induce AC in fixed coils.
Maybe heat weld the edges by slightly overlapping then using hair straighteners i.e 2 hot surfaces to sandwich them between until they have a flat plane ?
if your going that route, then simply painting conductive ink on the joining edges and apply current,and so very locally applying internal heating to both the ink and both/all surfaces in contact, give them a little "friction" again to mix the contacted material,you have a weld and conductive ink in place, a useful option sometimes. but a version of fran's super strong way is faster for one off's, no drying time etc, and with a little practice even frans weld would look nice without extra steps.. if you really must you can even make a tiny diy plastic friction welding cnc at home from readily available modeling supplies "10mm model square and round wood stock" and Dremel type Flexible Shaft Extension chuck for fun and no cost scrap plastic as your base material to learn
Hot staples may join them stronger and cleaner. When you mentioned putting that system into a larger pipe for lifting water I wondered if the same might increase the turbine ability. Having a rectangular hole at the base with a slight funneling flange would push the air into the screw and turn the inner pipe.
love the upgrade curious what you are going to use for a the outer jacket pipe. my bet is you have some hdpe, or PP or pvc sheeting around and are going to make a custom tube for it.
I would preheat ends of disc on a hot metal surface so that 2mm is soft and then press them together with 2 bits of wood 30 mm square and add pressure in vice or vice grips so as to get a fusion bond !
You could try to scour a helical channel in your PVC pipe so that your CD track could snap into it (i.e. make the CD hole a couple mm smaller than the pipe outer diameter and ensure the helical groove/channel cut into the pipe is at least a mm deep). This would avoid the messy gluing and you may even avoid having to join the CD to CD joint as well as the channel can be terminated and the CD's would be prevented from sliding up and down, so if you install them flush, they should stay flush.
thanks for the shoutout! wasn't necessary but i must say its fun to participate! if you want to try more welding there might be a high temp 3d printing pen capable of using PP filament which should make it easier to get a clean result. still think contact cement or solvent weld on the doubled up surfaces will work best though. i've ordered some :-) this is a project i see myself using. whats the best method you've come up with for cutting a larger ID? hole saw, heated pipe, dremel or just plain scissors?
You get up to some very cool stuff. Are you considering sealing the outer pipe around the screw and then having the entire assembly rotating? That should stop water from leaking around the outside.
Good job 👍 I'm not sure if it would work on CDs but my friend is a sign maker and he uses methacrylate for welding plexiglass together. If it works with CDs it would be fast and easy 🤷
good one mate - I'll have to invest in one it would be awesome for the disk to disk joint and for the seal to the pipe - I like it a lot - thanks for the tip
As long as you are welding, have you used a large, flat heating surface instead of a soldering iron? You have used a clothes iron in other projects, and this material should respond to lower temperatures than metal soldering. Are you familiar with the scarf joint?
So, I just did a cursory Google of the effect that prolonged sunlight might have on CD's. It seems to be insignificant to the polycarbonate disc itself... And the recording layer is the only thing affected. That is not the part we are concerned about!
I’m making one now, ,,lit’ll need to be hidden at the waiters edge, as the windmill my mates put up is no where near hi enough , unfortunately he’s the kind of guy that just doesn’t listen, he’ll never notice the hidden wires buried in the ground that power the sheds battery’s !! And as we sit around he’ll tease me about his windmill telling me I TOLD YOU SO LOL POWER TOO THE PEOPLE.
Love seeing this type of "rapid prototyping" prowess in action, got me thinking about how to improve that joint now haha -- I was imagining an extruded capital I (serif font) slotting inbetween which can then sandwich the 2 CDs after applying a little heat/compression....no idea what material to use however! How about your homemade sugru? Something like a staple would be good, if only they made them in that shape lol!
paul maydaynight exactly, i was thinking continuous but thin pins would work too. Not a hotshot on plastics but would 3 pieces of thin film / heat shrink bind to the HDPE Rob?
Weld the butt joint as you do now but finish it with a hot clothes iron, maybe with baking paper between the plastic and the iron. Should smooth it out.
just thought about something - large buildings always have an HVAC exhaust grating - some high some low some (protected ones) horizontal but most are vertical on the wall (exiting) . There is ALLOT of air flow that is not being used - would be an idea to capture and venturie that airflow through some type of fan/generator - its free energy that would be wasted for that building - perhaps remove a section of the sheet metal vent and put this between. Have a Tesla wall that it charges and that can run 1 circuit on the panel perhaps....??
Except it's not free energy. Restricting the airflow by putting a generating component in the path would simply cause the energy expenditures of the blowers creating the flow to increase, and more than the energy you would get from the generating component. So it's only 'free' energy in the same way that 'free' money can be obtained via stealing it.
I've noticed several ideas for alternative welding methods for the CDs, but you may also want to consider friction welding. It should produce a much smoother join.
the joint is an issue - it need to withstand the weight of water and it will be a critical part - the pipe to cd joint not so much a lot of things will do that but the disk to disk troubles me - I am grateful for all the suggestions it will take me while to test them that's for sure - cheers mate
for a chemist, I appreciate your practical engineering demonstrations
if I can do inmate - so can anyone - this is not my field of expertise but I am willing to give it a go warts and all lol
I love that you look so smug/pleased with the process when something good happens. Thanks for the insight into the process. I have to make something big enough to pump water back into a large pond so CDs aren't going to do it for me, but it was a very interesting video and gave me some encouragement. Cheers.
It’s not show room ready but you’re really helping me prototype things through your efforts. I appreciate your willingness to show the difficult stuff that you’re encountering! Warts and wrinkles invade us all.
Instead of a bearing, you could put in a plug with an eye bolt. Then you attach a vinyl coated cable to the eye bolt and the other end of cable attached to an alternator. So, as the water turns the screw, the cable turns the generator rotor.
Nice, or a shaft from a strimmer.
I like that mate - cheers
yep thats the thinking,the alternator doesnt care if its continuous or variable pulsed rotation, and your dumping that power into your caps/rms batteries buffer
I seen an Archimedes pump made from a helical wrapping of a flexible plastic tubing . Great example of the physics of an inclined plane.
an easy build too - the problem with it is though it will pump it can't be reversed to be a generator
Nice ideas every day
Robert, you're not only entertain, but inspiring me too
Thank you !!!
awesome mate - thanks for saying so - cheers
said it before,will say it again,you have a brilliant mind. thankyou for this one,was looking for a way to construct this. perfect.
it's always a pleasure to see what your creativity comes up with next.
there was once a variety of bryozoan colony critter called an archimedes because it had the same structure, it's helix was a window screen looking structure that strained food for it out of the ocean, they are pretty fossils but only the central core & the edge of the helix are preserved.
awesome mate
To summarise your channel - Unbridled ingenuity, and unbridled fun.
lol - nice summary lol
You can easily install a second flight inside the first thus cutting the pitch in half and halving the force on the joints. You may find that this would reduce the water flow requirement by 50% while increasing the torque output significantly. I suggest the next generation use a metal inside tube to improve the rigidity and reducing necessary radial clearances to improve efficiency.
nice suggestions mate - especially the double helix - I like that
Looks very promising. Can't wait to see it in action.
same her mate - cheers
Great solution to the flexibility problem. Hope you had the exhaust fan going during the welding process (lol). I used to make crude sculptures from plastic scraps, using an alcohol burner. Fun, but odorous!
Fair play that’s great you could add a T joint at the top to add the flow with an end cap and a bearing I think the biggest issue is the rpm though they would need gearing up to the alternator
Nice project. You made my day man, cheers.
cheers mate
Well good evening Sir! Love your channel!!!!
cheers mate thanks for taking the time to say so
Cool idea. Will be good to see it grafting😉👍
for sure
Great video . Your talent for making something out of nothing is incredible .I hope you noticed my second tip for holding tapers in a drill press it is easier than the first tip
I did mate and well appreciated it - cheers
If CD is 1mm. I would heat up 1mm staples with blow torch. Then try press them into the join.
Bit of tape to cover the seam.
Fabulous video, as always. Thank you.
nice one mate cheers
Some cloth impregnated with epoxy or superglue over the joints, will tape them together without the need for hot welding.
Respect and gratitude
cheers mate
Perfect just WHAT i need its blinking perfect
awesome mate - cheers
I'm ready to see it pull water up it, looks awesome and fun.
I plan on pouring water down it and getting it to generate mate
good job sir...
have seen that Archimedes screws will pump, with the screw fixed, and the outside turning... Curious if that would work when fluid flow used to make it move.? large pulley driven by tube could then drive a belt going to small pulley to step up speed to a generator... or it could be possible to mount magnets to the outside of the tube, and use them to induce AC in fixed coils.
Maybe heat weld the edges by slightly overlapping then using hair straighteners i.e 2 hot surfaces to sandwich them between until they have a flat plane ?
if your going that route, then simply painting conductive ink on the joining edges and apply current,and so very locally applying internal heating to both the ink and both/all surfaces in contact, give them a little "friction" again to mix the contacted material,you have a weld and conductive ink in place, a useful option sometimes.
but a version of fran's super strong way is faster for one off's, no drying time etc, and with a little practice even frans weld would look nice without extra steps..
if you really must you can even make a tiny diy plastic friction welding cnc at home from readily available modeling supplies "10mm model square and round wood stock" and Dremel type Flexible Shaft Extension chuck for fun and no cost scrap plastic as your base material to learn
I hadn't met - I like it - cheers
clever mate -I like it - I could also microwave them
@@ThinkingandTinkering actually id forgotten that works to :-)
always good to mention the obvious as it helps wake the brain up
Good idea
Methylene chloride solvent glue for acrylic I believe make sure you sand surfaces to be welded together
Hot staples may join them stronger and cleaner. When you mentioned putting that system into a larger pipe for lifting water I wondered if the same might increase the turbine ability. Having a rectangular hole at the base with a slight funneling flange would push the air into the screw and turn the inner pipe.
interesting mate -I was thinking in a pipe with a roofline turbine vent as a passive generator
@@ThinkingandTinkering interesting, that could be used like a fan as well as a turbine. Multifunctional screw.
love the upgrade curious what you are going to use for a the outer jacket pipe. my bet is you have some hdpe, or PP or pvc sheeting around and are going to make a custom tube for it.
HDPE sheet mate - lol - clearly I am an open book
I would preheat ends of disc on a hot metal surface so that 2mm is soft and then press them together with 2 bits of wood 30 mm square and add pressure in vice or vice grips so as to get a fusion bond !
it's a nice idea mate but polycarbonate has a nasty habit of shrinking and warping if too much heat is applied
Nice simplification !
cheers mate
You could try to scour a helical channel in your PVC pipe so that your CD track could snap into it (i.e. make the CD hole a couple mm smaller than the pipe outer diameter and ensure the helical groove/channel cut into the pipe is at least a mm deep). This would avoid the messy gluing and you may even avoid having to join the CD to CD joint as well as the channel can be terminated and the CD's would be prevented from sliding up and down, so if you install them flush, they should stay flush.
interesting idea mate - I will give it a go - cheers
thanks for the shoutout! wasn't necessary but i must say its fun to participate!
if you want to try more welding there might be a high temp 3d printing pen capable of using PP filament which should make it easier to get a clean result.
still think contact cement or solvent weld on the doubled up surfaces will work best though. i've ordered some :-)
this is a project i see myself using.
whats the best method you've come up with for cutting a larger ID? hole saw, heated pipe, dremel or just plain scissors?
I like this joining method :)
I like the principle my execution of it was a bit scruffy
You get up to some very cool stuff.
Are you considering sealing the outer pipe around the screw and then having the entire assembly rotating? That should stop water from leaking around the outside.
no I didn't I was thinking of having the screw rotate in a container - nice suggestion - cheers
Good job 👍
I'm not sure if it would work on CDs but my friend is a sign maker and he uses methacrylate for welding plexiglass together.
If it works with CDs it would be fast and easy 🤷
I'll give it a go mate - cheers
A hand-held 3D printer pen is a thermoplastic version of a MIG welder - how about that for a neater join?
good one mate - I'll have to invest in one it would be awesome for the disk to disk joint and for the seal to the pipe - I like it a lot - thanks for the tip
As long as you are welding, have you used a large, flat heating surface instead of a soldering iron? You have used a clothes iron in other projects, and this material should respond to lower temperatures than metal soldering.
Are you familiar with the scarf joint?
I am mate - it was basically what DmonZ1988 meant I think
So, I just did a cursory Google of the effect that prolonged sunlight might have on CD's.
It seems to be insignificant to the polycarbonate disc itself...
And the recording layer is the only thing affected.
That is not the part we are concerned about!
I’m making one now, ,,lit’ll need to be hidden at the waiters edge, as the windmill my mates put up is no where near hi enough , unfortunately he’s the kind of guy that just doesn’t listen, he’ll never notice the hidden wires buried in the ground that power the sheds battery’s !! And as we sit around he’ll tease me about his windmill telling me I TOLD YOU SO LOL
POWER TOO THE PEOPLE.
I love it yes scribe the Tube adjust the ID of (cd?) superglue /and baking soda too would cleaner and sandable
would it take being wet?
@@ThinkingandTinkering yes Robert
I like this but there should be a better way to make the join. something like hot staples?
Love seeing this type of "rapid prototyping" prowess in action,
got me thinking about how to improve that joint now haha -- I was imagining an extruded capital I (serif font) slotting inbetween which can then sandwich the 2 CDs after applying a little heat/compression....no idea what material to use however! How about your homemade sugru? Something like a staple would be good, if only they made them in that shape lol!
oh right, i see like (very small in this case) hard dowel pins spaced on a plastic string ribbon and somehow press fit the straight edges together
paul maydaynight exactly, i was thinking continuous but thin pins would work too.
Not a hotshot on plastics but would 3 pieces of thin film / heat shrink bind to the HDPE Rob?
Weld the butt joint as you do now but finish it with a hot clothes iron, maybe with baking paper between the plastic and the iron. Should smooth it out.
Genius
Totally at a tangent here ,but .....
if you look at your helix side on it is a perfect sine wave!
for sure mate - cheers - and like the pun circles waves and tangents - very good
I would look for a solvent weld. Like acetone does with plexiglass.
methylene dichloride mate
hi just an enquiry about the car battery you brought back to life how is it does it hold a similar charge to other car batteries
its better as he made it into an ultra battery i seem to remember...
it worked better when it was converted to an ultrabattery mate
just thought about something - large buildings always have an HVAC exhaust grating - some high some low some (protected ones) horizontal but most are vertical on the wall (exiting) . There is ALLOT of air flow that is not being used - would be an idea to capture and venturie that airflow through some type of fan/generator - its free energy that would be wasted for that building - perhaps remove a section of the sheet metal vent and put this between. Have a Tesla wall that it charges and that can run 1 circuit on the panel perhaps....??
Except it's not free energy. Restricting the airflow by putting a generating component in the path would simply cause the energy expenditures of the blowers creating the flow to increase, and more than the energy you would get from the generating component. So it's only 'free' energy in the same way that 'free' money can be obtained via stealing it.
Atlas has it mate - but your idea might work in a forced draught which is assisted with a roof turbine vent - interesting - cheers
vous êtes geni multi fonction🤣😙
music can save the environment
Would this sit in a piece of guttering do you think ?
Interesting old tech. Could you get bit more recent and look at Tesla Longitudinal electricity
using this in generators is pretty new mate and tbh all the rage
@@ThinkingandTinkering Thanks
Oh wow! I think I know how to fabricate the screw in a much simpler way.
Screw ThiS!!!! :) very cool.
lol - cheers mate
I've noticed several ideas for alternative welding methods for the CDs, but you may also want to consider friction welding.
It should produce a much smoother join.
the joint is an issue - it need to withstand the weight of water and it will be a critical part - the pipe to cd joint not so much a lot of things will do that but the disk to disk troubles me - I am grateful for all the suggestions it will take me while to test them that's for sure - cheers mate
Don't pay any attention to the guy under the table spinning it! ))
lol - no mate there's a secret motor and wire lol
I'm cringing because of all the old cds and dvds I threw away 2 weeks ago because I couldn't think of way to reuse them. :(
40 mm hole too small for a 40mm pipe. As the helix is elongated the bore diameter of the helix is decreased.
ok - try a different diameter - let's say 48mm
2 minutes before the demonstration
Maybe you would have more luck using uv cured glue. Like is used on cell phones.
roberts a bonafide doc of chemistry, that happens to spend lots of time down the garden shed
I like it mate - it's just a bit expensive right now - a good glue for poly carb is methylene chloride - sold as Tensol 12