Cub Cadet Transmission Repair
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- Опубліковано 1 тра 2021
- amzn.to/3xFcVMJ Large oil syringe
amzn.to/3nGxyUv Mobil 1 Full Sny. 15w-50
amzn.to/3nHff16 Milwaukee 3/8 Ratchet M12
amzn.to/3aYmAEF Tuff Torque axle Seals
amzn.to/3eIrJBI Tuff Torque Vent and Fill Cap
amzn.to/3t9TwAb Tuff Torque Maintenance Kit
In this video, I take a look at a transmission in a tractor that is not moving at all. I'm hopeful it will be an easy fix.
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Doublewide6 Repairs LLC has a Master’s Degree in industrial technology with a specialization in Manufacturing, due to factors beyond the control of Doublewide6 Repairs LLC and anyone featured in his videos, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Doublewide6 Repairs LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video or any of Doublewide6’ Repairs LLC's videos. Use this information at your own risk. Doublewide6 Repairs LLC recommends safe practices when working on equipment, power tools, chemicals, electronics, electrical systems, vehicles, and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Doublewide6 Repairs LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Doublewide6 Repairs LLC. - Розваги
amzn.to/3xFcVMJ Large oil syringe
amzn.to/3nGxyUv Mobil 1 Full Sny. 15w-50
amzn.to/3nHff16 Milwaukee 3/8 Ratchet M12
amzn.to/3aYmAEF Tuff Torque axle Seals
amzn.to/3eIrJBI Tuff Torque Vent and Fill Cap
amzn.to/3t9TwAb Tuff Torque Maintenance Kit
Tuff torq recommends to use 5w50 full synthetic in the k46. Also the cap you removed isn't the fill. That was the vent cap. The fill plug is the flat rubber plug halfway under the pulley
This ones not the same transaxle as mine mine has a black vent tube on the right side in the back it's also the fill tube I looked it up ats what it said it is
When I was reading about mine it said to use 2 and a half bottles of 20w50 synthetic transmission fluid so that's what I'll be getting
I've not seen one video of anyone doing any of my kind of transaxle transmission with the black breather tube that sticks up on the right side in the back
I'm gonna use my shop vac to get most the old fluid out of mine
I just bought another cub cadet today . My other one is a 22 hp v twin 42 inch and bought a 46 inch 22hp v twin . I love them and maintain them so they last oil change 2 times a year and new gas filter and new mulching blades . My other 1 I bought in 2016 new belts and greased everything . I do it myself and I am a 68 year old women .NEVER SAY YOU CAN'T DO SOMETHING LAWNMOWER LIFTS ARE GREAT TO HAVE
Wow..good for you. I'm 64 and been a mechanic most .y life and I hate working in these mowers..lol.
Thanks. Your video saved me alot of money. I removed the battery and battery brackets, power washed it all and filled the tranny. It was bone dry and took 1 and a half quarts. All in all, about half an hour after washing it.
I just did the same job on the same mower. You can access the fill plug/vent by just removing the battery.
I just bought one of these last July. Nice to see how to work on the transmission in case i encounter the same problem. I like the mower, but I have one issue with Kohler 22 horse engine. Dust and debris has been getting by my air filter. Cub Cadet sent me a new filter and housing. Testing it now. Will send you an update on the result.
OMG Cub Cadet tractors are built so cheaply now. I have a 2003 Cub and it looks nothing like the new ones. My Cub is built to last and looks, runs, and drives like new still. Great video 😎👍
By 2003, they were no longer concerned about building a machine that lasted forever. They were not as good as 20 years prior to 03.
My 2003 is a 1525. All cast iron front and fabricated deck. Twin cylinder. Still runs perfect after 20 years. I did replace the belt every 4 or 5 years and replace the transmission belt this year. Did have to finally buy a new seat.
At official cub cadet dealerships, they sell the XT2. It comes with bearing wheels a heavier axle, a bigger battery, armrests, turf master tires, bigger engine, plus more. The XT2's are not sold at the big box stores like Home Depot.
That customer is lucky your honest. He could have been taken for a new trans. Great job brother
This is exactly the same problem I am having with my Cub Cadet riding lawn mower, same side. The video is very helpful. Now I know what to do to access the transmission.
Nice job Bob. I know your glad you didn't have to tear into the transmission.
Flip the seat up and pull battery out lot easier to fill the rear end easy access
yup,did the same, worked out great!
He,s to stupid.
Is there a fill hole under the battery? Is standard hydraulic oil fine to use?
@@mikef8769 yes I did it a while ago I used cub cadet drive system fluid plus
Great looking and working tractor now that you have cleaned and repaired the bugger. Thanks for the video. Thanks for showing us where you got the parts etc.
Mower looks brand new after it was pressure washed! Nice video!
Modern Cubs are the modern BMWs of lawn mowers. Both once were worth what they cost but are now just over priced, always broken, and over-relying on the badge to get them off the showroom floor.
At this price point they're all the same. Roll the dice. Home owners cant afford commercial equipment 🤷♂️
Any mower built today to yesterdays standards would cost $20k
I wish people would stop comparing todays lawnmower with yesterday's garden tractor. They're not the same thing.
Other wise known as garbage
Mine runs great. Same model and year. Basic oil changes and greasing. I try to keep mine a lot cleaner than that. 😂
I got a scrub cadet overpriced piece of s***what's this signature cut b*******I don't think that cuts that good at all really got the high lift blades no good my gravely kicks ass since 1969
Thank you for your knowledge and making this video. I have same mower and same problem. I replaced the drive belt and didn’t solve the problem. That’s when i found your video. I bought a hoist from harbor freight and made me a beam out of (12) 2x4s to hang it from. I couldn’t get one of the back wheels off which made it a manor pain but 2.5hrs later i had it all done. It didn’t take off right away but after a minute it did. Guess it needed to build up pressure or something. Thanks so much for helping me! Saved me a ton of money!
I just bought that exact mower last week. It was relatively cheap (2k!) But my 1983 Wheel Horse was having fuel delivery problems and I was a bit desperate for a mower.
I had a hydrogear on a Murray that lasted just over 20 years. It just got to where it wouldn't pull so I pulled it out, disassembled and cleaned it up. No signs of oil leaks and other than parts being polished from use no real reason that it wouldn't pull. Brought my micrometers and bore gauges home from work and found no appreciable wear anywhere. What did strike me as odd was the two halves of the case were not machined! They still had casting pimples and flash on the mating surfaces and specified grey silicone as a seal. Anyways I put it back together and it still didn't pull so it got retired. 20 years isn't shabby I guess and my yard is moderate sized with some wicked terrace rows so while not abused it got no quarter either.
You can imagine my reaction when I saw the exact same mower I just bought being a star in a not so flattering UA-cam video. I'm glad it started pulling again with the oil topped up. I'm also relieved it was a 2015 so I know I have a few years, LOL!
Thank you for the video, taking the time to prepare for and edit one.
Terry from South Carolina
Learned something new! Awesome! Man that tractor cleaned up well.
I just bought a NEW one in May, 50" inch fab deck with a 24 hp Kohler... I love it !!!
I’ve got the craftsman T 3000 has the plastic trans I saw the leak on rear seals replaced and she runs great great job on the vid
I got the same tractor and had it over 2 years, still looks new, it pulls my 300lb butt around fine , I do this weird thing to it that keeps it going it’s called MAINTENANCE!! You don’t use this and throw it away like a paper towel, it’s a few thousand dollar investment.
Like 6-8 years ago,.... I have watched This channel for electrical box/ circuit breaker panel for my electrical fixed.
...... Now I watch him How to fix a Lawn mower tractor.... Man 👍😂❤️
He knows everything I guess.
Great instructional video.
Thank you Sir.
Just repaired a older Cub Cadet that what owner thought needed was a wheel seal. It did need a seal, but the bushing just inside the wheel seal was worn out. At least it was a mostly steel Cub Cadet. It has the Tuff Torq transmission also, this one looks the same, that is the vent cap on the back side of transmission.
Good job mate.. looks like brand new now.. the jet wash seems to do a good job..
I like easy problems like this. You lucked out.
Bob, you turned that tractor into new condition! I know you've been very busy, but always great to see your videos. Hope alls well with you and your family! 🇺🇸Roger
Nice job, you are a true pro!
That's the vent you tore open, not where your supposed to put the oil.
Closer to the front of the tractor, and down lower on the trans is the plug for the fluid level.
It fits like an oil seal, but is just a blank plug. Same side as the vent. To fill the transmission to the proper level,
pry this plug . then add 10w30 motor oil, not sticky 50, until the level is halfway up the magnet
sitting up top, vertically. This magnet just sets in the cast grooves, make sure not to dislodge it when filling.
Do the right axle seal first, then when the wheel is off for the left side, pull the battery and you can
pry off the cap , fill the axle, and replace the cap (new) , stick the wheel on and forget it.
Trans is bled, right level, ready to go.
Don't bother providing this guy proper service instructions. He obviously doesn't care.
This is why I have 4 classic garden tractors w the old tride & true manual transmissions. Mostly the JDs 212, 110RF, 216, & sears st16 Yanmar diesel swap.
Good info I have this exact same mower anything I can learn is valuable to me thank u
I bought a Cub Cadet because everyone I talked to said it was the best. I went to Lowes and bought an XT1. I am not very happy with it. I always have to do something 2 or 3 times in the mowing season. This year to even get it started I had to replace the solenoid. There are so many “safety” precautions everything has to be just right for the stupid thing to work.
Good fix Bob nice when the machine comes back.
On the Cub Cadets some guys pull the battery, remove the support brackets and access the fill plug from the battery chamber. The axle seal is about $8.00 from Cub Cadet. I think they fill the tranny with hydraulic fluid or tranny fluid.
They sure do get cheaper and cheaper, I have a 1985 Roper 38 years old has a twin opposed engine never lost a head gasket never lost a sump gasket everything‘s original on it except the seat all metal what a beautiful machines been kept indoors. I have more people shoot me offers for that lawnmower then I can honestly tell you. It was my dad’s he still alive he’s 87 so it’s pretty sentimental
Hey! I thought that tractor was yard art during your trench coat video! Also I BELIEVE IT IS VERY IMPORTANT you must wash each machine (within) reason before returning it to the original owner. We live in a throwaway society, returning them a machine that runs and looks better before they dropped it is key! This key unlocks the thought that they made the right decision investing in YOU to repair the machine! THEY WILL BACK! 🔧🦅🇺🇸🤙🏻
Well said
@@donaldschneider4050 thank you 🤙🏻🦅🔧🇺🇸🫡
Nice video. Enjoyed as always
I.have the same pile of junk with same problem left seal leaked and tranny doesn't work, thanks for the help. Will be fixing mine 👍.
Great information. I am trying to figure out why my transmission won't disengage. Replaced the brake connection but ever since I cannot disengage so that it will freewheel. Wondering if the brake is to tight or whether I missed something. The lever is attached.
Great video Bob! I need to find me a way to lift up the rear ends like that.
You don't need a jack the mower up, if the battery is underneath the seat just remove the battery and battery box it pops right out to check your fluid. there there's no reason to tear your lawnmower apart to do it. When you change the fluid you have to run it and purge the air and then check it and make sure the levels right you can't do this when the transmission is all ripped out of the bottom of it
Thanks for sharing!
Nice repair! I couldn't quite tell, did that have a little shock absorber on the back connected to the reverse pedal linkage? I've got a tuff torq on my Simplicity and there's a shock absorber on the back of the transmission connected to to the frame and reverse linkage, and it looks like it is leaking oil. (It also jerks a little when starting to reverse, which is why I'm wondering if it's related)
Nice job. I like to clean them up before I send them back as well. The big shops send them as they get them.
.👍 # 55
Stay safe, Joe Z
I have a next door kid who comes and uses my washer
He gets the money for wash jobs. Let kids learn if you can
We need them
@@philliphall5198 When you find one that is interested, do all you can to help him/her along.
On my Cub Cadet with the battery under the seat I can just take the battery out to access the transmission fill plug . I have a leaky seal and simply add a little oil every year . Makes for a quick easy job by taking out the battery .
The Only Thing That I Thought Was a No No Is That You Pulled On The Tire Fairly Roughly A Few Times. That Can Lead To Pulling The Shaft Out Of The Transmission. The Axel Shaft Is Held In By Circlips And If You Pull Too Hard You Can Pop The Circlips Off And The Axel Will Pop OUT. Then You Have Major Problems, Then You Would Have To Pull The Transmission Completely Out, Then You Have To Split The Transmission Casings And Fix It. This Is A Big Job To Do, I Have Done This Before and It's NO FUN. There Are A Hundred Parts Inside These Transmissions ( Maybe Exaggerating a Bit ) But A Hell Of A Lot Of Little Parts. You Don't Want To Mess With Because You Can Absolutely Stuff It Up, Then You Will Be Paying a Mower Mechanic To Fix It @ $100 An Hour... You Was Extremely Lucky That The Axel Stayed In The Transmission
BEST ADVICE TODAY>
Thank you so much best video ever
The XT1 is the Big Box store version...been running an XT2 w/Kawasaki engine since they came out in 2014 and it runs just as good...as when new.
the Kohler v-twin is a Kawasaki knockoff and seems legit, has been very reliable for me...
great save !
Great Job👍💪
Double wide what was the air bleed process? I know you can do it with a drill when its off the mower. Did you just cycle the clutch in roll mode? Thanks sir.
Thank you sir!
I just did the exact same tractor and trans combo. I took the whole trans out like a doofus. I should have done it your way.......lol Great job Bob!
Me too 😔
Another guy commented you can just pull out the battery to get to the fill spot 😬
Hey Double Wide Did you charge a diagnostic fee before taking on job ? Did you consider replacing both seals ? Did you tuneup include valve lashing ? What did you get for the job price wise? Excellent video
I have never seen brass bushings in any cub cadet or MTD lawnmower. They've been using the plastic bushings since the 90's on the cheap stuff. My 90's 2000 series all have actual bearings in the front wheels. As does my 2006 3000 series.
You get what your buying with lawnmowers just like everything else.
Tuff torq used to use a more pliable axle seal with no problems,they changed to a harder seal had major problems after that , I know because I used to work there
Thank you!
good job.
Good video!
Is the axel on this mower is it a square d style of axel my powr kraft mower has the square d style of axel,s on the transmission
You did good.
One way Is To Get Your Wheel Off If STUCK On The Axel, Is To Drill 2 Holes opposite Each Other On The Wheel / Hub Itself . ( Meaning The Tire Rim ) Near The Centre Axel . Use 2 Bolts And Nuts, And Use A Puller To Remove. Maybe Apply A Bit Of Heat At The Back Of The RIM To Help
Thank You
Great video! Where can I buy the syringe to add oil to the rear? Thanks
I have the same model and noticed that I no longer could go forward or reverse. Pulled the deck and still can't really see the problem. I do see a pulley in the middle (Behind a metal plate). I pulled on the belt and seemed to be ok. Do you think the issue might be under that panel? I'll still have to check for oil leaks but, it had worked great all last season.
Also, that pin you pulled in the back, was that working prior to fixing the issue? I'll have to check that out but, I'm just confused. Would having that pin set differently stop the mower from moving? Pulling the deck gave me a chance to hopefully put some new blades on and belt, if I can fix this. ty
Does the k62 have drain bolts on the bottom of her trans?
Nice video
Yeah my pops and I purchased a cub cadet ltx 1050 that only has 33 hrs on it. Purchased from my boss who bought about 4 years or so ago. Then stopped on him and at the time he was making money so he just set it aside. Well the transmission bypass rod is engaged to the neutral and will not engage back in gear. And when we tried to pop the Trans fill plug the rubber broke. And there is a leak on the right seal. Any advice you could give us???
Hydrostatic transmissions seem so trouble prone, MTD should build a heavy duty version of their Transmatic variable pulley transmission for cheaper Cub Cadets. Had one in a Lowe's Taskforce and worked great, as a lawn tractor, and was quiet and smooth.
nice video. I am not surprised! This is what happens, when cub cadet and others get bought out by a cheap tractor company... i have the cub cadet LGTX 1050, AND ITS BEEN NOTHING BUT JUNK!!! UGH!
Do you think these transmission have so much trouble because cub puts these horible tires on the back that rude like a bald tire. I can barely go up a very small incline if my wheels are turned at all. And my tires slip real bad. Going from a small craw to spinning reallly fast. I'm just thinking out loud. It would be like if I were reving up my car before taking off.
Does the battery tray come out? On the LGTX 1054 the tray comes out and the top of the transmission is accessible.
If they were all that easy... Good fix.
Good job, I was surprised all it took was some oil to get it moving again. I used a chain hoist to lift the back of my troy bilt with Kohler eng and the gas pours out of the carb float bowl. Just have to keep it much lower while working on it. Maybe you had fuel injection on it.
I also wondered if there was danger of battery spillage at that angle.
@@amerlin388 Yeah, best to remove the battery first. I just ordered 3 gas cut off valves, filters and clamps so I can run my carbs dry for winter or jacking up at a severe angle without gas pouring out.
Plastic bag will stop that leak and pull battery out to
Gud work bud
Transmission in my XT1 stops moving after mowing my lawn. I changed oil and it does exactly the same thing.
Question for ya. the cub cadet ltx 1045 won't move. Makes a lot of whiney noise when trying to forward or back. I replaced the belt. It was terrible. But still the same. bringing the mower put of storage this year and the thing won't move. Is my transmission shot? The fan is spinning.
Great video Bob. You are correct they usually aren't this easy. I've gotten lucky a few times like this one here. I did have a bad plastic trans a couple years ago that you seen in one of my videos. I did break it apart somewhat , because they are glued, the gears I seen were plastic also. I think the back and forth slop in the axle wore out those gears " I'm guessing"
Imagine being the moron engineer who thought "yeah these plastic gears should be able to push a 500lbs machine over a bumpy yard with your average 200+lbs American on the seat " 😂
I've only seen 1 plastic trans, it was in a John deere and worked perfectly, it had 300+ hours it.
Not saying it's a great idea but not convinced it's a bad one either.
@@jeremydavis2595 149 Cub Cadet 14 horse power motor and hydrostatic no spark please give me video yeah Google I'm having problems no spark on a 149:14 horsepower Cub Cadet hydrostatic
ok
1 yeah I would like to watch a video since I quit estetiksiz components yeah I forgot could I get a video on the North Park
Tuff torq recommends to use 5w50 full synthetic in the k46. The fill line is 3/4in below the lip OF THE FILL PLUG, not vent cap. Also the cap you removed isn't the fill. That was the vent cap. The fill plug is the flat rubber plug halfway under the pulley
There's also a level if you fill it thru the vent. The information is on the tuff torq manual for the k46
@@XloMotion the service manual for the K46 I got from tuff torq didn't have that info. It was specific to not use the vent cap due to not being able to get the fluid out (when draining) and because you typically can't reseal it without buying new.
Yea... This doublewide guy is quite the hack.
s all relevant anyway because you can't check it with the mower at 45 degree angle in the air and the transmission at a 45 degree angle the other way hmmm?
@@staind288 maybe use a suction gun to suck the used oil out through the top.
That oil doesn't evaporate or magically disappear so if it's gone ya gotta find where the leak is! You got that baby looking nice! Do you have a video on replacing those seals?
nice job I have a 1050 I think it is a 2013 twin
Should I change the oil occasionally or is it not needed?
What brand of oil in the transmission do you use
So he bought a used tractor I bought anew one 6 years ago I have taken care of mine great tractor
Make sure you put the plastic spacer with the star end toward the transmission. Its make to keep pressure against seal somewhat.
lĺpm
by bbn z
How to test a relay video please
7
There is like 56 different variations of the Tuff torq K46 transmission..so witch one is it?
Did you do a video on replacing the seal?
I'm wondering why you dropped the rear end down to fill when you could have just tooking out the battery and ued a funnel to fill the trans
Just had the rear bearing go on my brand new XT1. Is there any way to repair this, or do I need a whole new rear? Are there any aftermarket products that are heavy duty that I can use to upgrade?
New cub cadets have a 3 year warranty.
I'd use that to fix it
Can't get the transmission to release out of park model Lt 1050 any ideas??
Helmut
Thank you verry much you help me a lot
now i have to see how to change the bearing
My cub cadet XT1 lasted less than 200 hrs. Scored piston did it in $1,700.00 down the drain.
Was it cause by carbon buildup on piston ??
Would like to know why. ???
I’ve seen this several times when crown of piston breaks
When you take the seals 🦭out will all the 🛢oil run over? Thanks for the 📹video it was very helpful for me...
not if he jacks up that side of the mower first
Yes unless that side you're replacing is higher than the oil level
I have a 2014. You can remove the battery under the seat and the fill cap is right there.
There should be a black fill plug beside the vent plug
Thanks for the video. I wish my Cub Cadet X1 would cut higher.
Do you think a spacer could be added in between the axle mounting and the frame?
Mine had the same problems so added air to tires and lowered the scalp rollers to make the deck roll higher
@@brucer1220 How much did you lower the rollers? With my deck fully raised, my rollers are 1.5 inches off the ground.
@@rondail5675 I went all the way, but I had just installed new anti-scalp wheels and it was too high, so I backed off 1 notch... made a big difference on height ... here in Florida we have thick St. Augustine grass which likes to be cut high...
Some of my customers have put on taller front tires that helps a little but sometimes they hit the deck and it limits your turning radius
I have club cadet just like that one with aluminum transmission but it goes slow in reverse is that a sign of low oil
Top speed forward is 5 mph and reverse is 3 mph.
I picked up this same mower with 230 hrs seal leaking and won’t move, I hope it’s this easy
Great video thanks for sharing
I have the same model and it's full of fluid and when you push the pedal towards it grinds and moves somewhat slow and when the pedal is pushed in the reverse direction it doesn't make any noise but sometimes it will move and sometimes it won't . What could that possibly be ? Could it be the pulley on top of the transmission with the fan ?
Did you figure it out? Typically if you have low fluid and pump the pedal foward and reverse fast enough, you can get it to move. These transmissions are problems. I'd suggest you leave the belt alone, unless there's a problem with it. The belt pan sucks. The plastic idlers are terrible too.
I've had my xt1 7 yrs looks brand new still cuts like new...keep your mower out of the weather take care of it and it'll last forever
Does the XT1 have separate transmission and differential drain plugs? I was watching it in another video and didn't remember. Changing it once a year with the best oil you can find ought to make it last a lot longer. I strongly dislike non-user serviceable units.
It has no drain plugs.
That doesn't make it non- serviceable.
Just makes it slightly harder to service.
You have to remove the trans and turn it upside down to drain it.
@@guyina4x499 Or just suck it out. Shop vac would work fine, or a vacuum pump.
How many years of used for this Cub Cadet lawn mower that has a Transmission problem...????
6,7, or 8 years...??? 😲
I have a Craftsman lawn mower tractor for at least 10 years and still going Strong and just this year I changed Spark plug when I felt the Engine was kinda weak and struggling to cut the Lawn.
...... After changed Spark plug and oil changed and filter,. It runs strong and Alot better now...
My next Lawn mower tractor Maybe Husqvarna or Cub Cadet...??? 🤔