Just a quick note to say thanks as your quick tweak of the governor at the beginning gave me an idea on how to fix an issue on my mower I’ve had for a few years - cable tie saved me until now.
When you were cutting the spring, I was yelling for you not to. I was telling you to put the spring in right so it was hooked on the ends. As far as the wheel alignment, use a string, much better than a broom handle.
I have two Husqvarna ride on mowers, one a gift and both broke their folded sheet metal chassis. Break point is under the large skirt pressing in line with the front of the seat. Need to remove the seat and skirt piece to fix. One chassis had three holes at the maximum stress point one of which was square for a coach head bolt. Fix was to weld up the break then cut some long diamond shaped plates from 1/8" steel plate and weld them over the top. The larger Husqvarna also has bad toe out and no means of adjustment, but seeing that new drag link with tapped end and threaded in ball joint with locking nut means I have another winter project to accomplish. Helps when you have a Lathe, Milling machine and welding set. Necessary for Husqvarna ride on mower Owners. Oh and always fit kevlar belts and DON'T mow over sticks bigger than 1/4" dia.
James, the problem with these mowers is the front axel being made of stamped and welded sheat metal. when the right wheel hits anything solid like a tree or wall, it twists the front axel towards the rear causing the wheel to tow out. You can see that by looking from the top of the front axel down and seeing that the front axel is no longer vertical on that side. Compair it with the other side of the axel. There are cast iron ones on e-bay or maybe Amazon to replace the stamped ones. check it out.
Nice job going thru the throttle spring diagnosis and repair. It is difficult to find any easy explanations or diagrams that illustrate the springs and rods and their proper placements. I had to clean my carb 2 years ago and one of the rods came off, the choke still sticks to this day. I will now recheck my placements, Thanks!
Notice the piles of grass clippings up in the area of the main drive belt pulley. I had the same condition with the grass and leaf cuttings. The engine would rev up but the tractor would not go. It would creep a bit. Watching a youTube repair, the had the same no go problem and inspection revealed pilles of grass cuttings interfering with the belt and belt pulley. Your tractor in this video has piles of grass clippings in the pulley area. Cleared my problem with my air compressor and extended air wand. When I put the tractor away for the winter I will pull the deck, sharpen blades and be sure there are no grass clippings or oak leaf choppings causing the drive belt to slip. Nice video. JoeB
Instead of cutting the threaded piece, maybe you could have cut some of the actual link arm off, assuming it was threaded pretty far in, and not just the first 1/4" or so. This would allow you to keep using the locking nut. Just a thought.
My old Craftsman was out of line so I took the drag link that was out, lined up the other side, stuck that drag ling in a vise and laid the hammer to it till it'd line up with the holes. Put the link back on and it's run just fine since then and that's been several years and those are fixed so they turn a lot sharper to the left so they can discharge from the right. I can go inside a 3 foot circle. BLESSINGS!
I bet you have a natural born ability to visualize mechanics and can fix anything. I also have that ability and your videos are like watching myself fix stuff. I took apart anything I could as a little kid and now I never goto a mechanic, even stuff like plumbing, electrical, ect I do. I like being able to do that stuff. Great video!
@@jcondon1 I was thinking more perhaps you were a surgeon in a previous career, given your steady hand & patient logical manner. But yeah, being a born "tinkerer" I can relate & I think our parents probably cursed our inquisitive minds (at least until we first saved them a big repair bill on something haha).
junglistmovement, I feel blessed to be able to do a lot of different things as well. I'm retired now after 44 years of being in the trucking industry. 🚚 big trucks not the picture of the little one. I have worked on trucks and trailers, that stuff is heavy. Lawn mowers are much lighter 👌. I have done a lot of things too and you're correct it feels good to do your own work. If you get this, I hope you have a wonderful NEW YEAR
All of your videos are well done and correct. There are a lot of people on You Tube that aren't even close on some of their diagnostic findings. I find you to be correct on every one of your videos. Great job!!! I enjoy learning repair methods on You Tube. You just need to know who to trust.
As far as the right front tire sticking out a little more than the left, is simply Huskys way of showing their confidence in their product. In so many words, They're saying that even though the tractor is made for mowing, go ahead and put it on the round track and race it. It will do just fine. LoL
Looked like it was still toed in on the right side at the end there. Good job getting that mess of springs sorted out! Seems like someone was fiddling around with them who didn't know what they were doing.
Very interesting as always ! My buddy has that same trans on a rebadged husky to McCullough , I do his lawn whenever he's working off shore , i remembered that same push-pull rod/wire once completely refused to go back in , i managed to reach up from underneath hold it further in and apply more pressure and it returned to position , funny thing is it's only done it once to me in 13 year's of mowing , and i never lubed it lol hardcase..... I think that young Lad really really wants a kick ass quad ! 😉🙃😎 NZ
you did a great job of explaining things in your video! i had a similar issue with an adjustable drag link (poorly threaded, loose fit) so i just put a tack weld on....problem solved
The right side axle is twisted at the bend ! I fixed mine by removing the axle, putting it in my vise, heating it up with my propane torch and adjusting the twist !
Very helpful indeed. I have 3 of these. The first one I bought brand new 10 years ago. Still a good tractor. I picked up two more at a yard sale this Spring and motors and mowing decks work fine. The guy said transmissions were no good. After watching your video, these two probably has the same problems. Both are 2654 Kohler engines run great, bodys are great. I'm hoping this will be the exact problem and and I will be able to do what you did. Thank you for posting this video.
I just picked up a LGT2654. Having troubles with the Kohler engine surging. I've done everything so far including adjusting valves. Beginning to think governor spring is worn. The engine is running much better but doesn't hold a steady RPM and I think it may be governor related.
I have the same tractor and the trans disconnect lever does not need to be pushed back in. Simply start tractor, engage trans and lever automatically retracts
My brother just GAVE me a husqvarna... one just like this and it won't go ither. the pulleys were making all kinds of noise.. fixed pulleys but won't move still... your the only one that showed what that little "wire" for the freewheel thingy is for... well mine just bends too, im about to go tappy tap...HOPE THATS ALL IT IS edit. That's what it was. THANK YOU
NO need to shorten the steering shafts to reduce toe in. Simply lift the front, then using the pipe from a hydraulic jack for leverage, bend the brackets that the steering links are connected to. Takes 2 minutes
25:16 I think that instead of the right front wheel being offset over to the right an inch, it is more likely that it is just toed in slightly. There is really no point of reference on the side of the tractor to be able to tell if the broom stick is truly parallel and turning the steering wheel slightly to the right would bring the broom stick to the rear wheel (but then left side would be out an inch). Not that a small angle like this matters on a lawn mower, but just my 2 cents. Anyway, I really enjoyed this video and learned a ton! Throttle linkage setups on these things has always confused me.
I really wish you would leave the camera rolling when you actually do the work. Please just show everything. I am particularly interested in how the tools are used. Thank you, you are a genius.
Instead of cutting off the threaded part of the drag link end, you could have cut off the end of the drag link itself. There was plenty of thread inside the end. Then you could use the jam nut as designed which I think is going to be a pain for you later. The Jam nut keeps it from flopping around. Also, you could have gotten an adjustable heim joint (eyelet type) to use with the draglink.
I think someone left the ignition in the run position. Like that it will run up the clock with the engine off. It’s a quick way to depreciate a machines value.
Man i love mechanics but anytime i ever had to work on one of these carb set-ups id rather hit it with a hammer and buy a new one than try and figure out those damn springs….. your explanation was clear as day!! I totally get it know sweet video 👍👍
I just got one like that and all i had to was rebuild the front end and put tractor lug tires on the back. The top link is for the choke so someone put the cables on backwards
LF tire has negative camber angle; bent knuckle, worn bushing? I've got a Husky that the trans wouldn't go into neutral or reverse. Broke the trans down and found dry spindles for the pulleys. Scotchbrite and a little grease and she drives like new!
You could look and see if front rims have an off set and not put on the same way that could be why one seems wider than the other but as long as it tracks straight it isn’t anything to really worry about
Best thing to do is order the correct governor and throttle springs That’s what I do I they been messed with and adjust the governor shaft 😊 It’s July 4,2023, dogs all barking and trying to hide from the noise bangs
Pretty sure you scored that machine should have a k66 transmission. They have those thin rods for the fluid bypass and it looked like you had a fluid expansion tank as well. Probably need to work it back and forth to rub off corrosion due to it probably didn't get used much and was in one position for a long time. It did sound a little whiny at the end when taking off might not of been a bad idea to do a fluid change and inspect the fluid for metal particles. That alone is a score most machines have a k46 or worse.
I have worked on those husqvarna steering issues. It is a big mystery to me as well. We would adjust it into alignment and use it for a minute and it would be back out. Never found a bad part on it.
"Looks" can be deceiving, it appeared to be a well taken care tractor but hindsight is 100% accurate..... way to many hillbillies got under the hood so to speak......I have bought 3 tractors and 4 or 5 snow blowers that appeared in like new condition only to find numerous donkey repairs that needed to be fixed.....seems you have a good runner in the end.
That right tire being out & draglink looking correct makes me think only the axle that goes into the tire/rim was bent from someone hitting something. Maybe could have heated just that portion & bent it back right at the ' J ' shaped area.
NO,GOV SLOWS THE ENGINE DOWN, THROTTLE SRINGS SPEEDS IT UP, IDLE IS CONTROLED BY THE GOV, NOT SOME SPRING, LOOK FOR THE AJUSTING SCREW BY THE THROTTLE STOP, THERE SHOULD BE ONE FOR THE HIGH THROTTLE AS WELL.BEST OF LUCK.
Some engineer from VAG was let go and designed the governor/carb linkage but knew better than using 27 different types of fasteners. I'm kidding of course....or am I.
New Governor Spring installed backward. Under idle, it should move freely or loose. Once you are in Full Throttle, the spring will tighten to prevent engine surging. The way you install it it, it will fall off in the future as well.
I have a yt48XLS. Great "attachment rollerd and such, but thet ruin the transmission. Worked great then the transmission mount broke. Then the transmission failed. I bought and replaced the transmission. A hydrostatic transmission is the weak point. You can replace or the engine. I love my Kohler engine. Its the transmission that is trying to hold a deck up that wieghs tooo much. Bullet proof deck, but a reason it was on a smaller transmission i will never know I left an engineering degree because of teality😂
Came here for troubleshooting, I have the same mower, mine turned out to be the drive belt stretched and slipped so nothing was powering the transmission, really hard to see this out in the yard without getting the mower on jacks. Just sharing for others that might be having the same issue but this didnt address...great video otherwise.
They had reversed the installation of the low speed spring. They had tried to hook it in from the top, instead of in from the bottom because they hooked it incorrectly on the governor arm.
The brake should release the lever. Mine got stuck once and working the brake freed it. Also the spring can hop off or the rod can get bent. I've never had to go into the transmission.
Don’t u love it when someone doesn’t have a clue & works on something making it far worse than it was to begin with!!!! I use to go behind these type of people a lot!! They could talk themselves into a raise but wasn’t as good as they say they were !! And didn’t care about customers as much either! Jus getting that paycheck & buying their beer & cigarettes for the weekend!
I have a Husqvarna 2011 42 inch cut. It makes noise from the transmission and I don’t know where it’s coming from. Sometimes the reverse sticks and forwards sticks.
I would have insisted on setting the right governed high speed (spec is probably in the 3400 range from Husqvarna) and idle (probably 1250 ish?). I know, not totally necessary, but kind of satisfying...
Sir, you got lucky, I'm working on a 22 horsepower Briggs, just like yours. I readjusted the governor but it still wants to run away. Now I'm taking the engine off, and replace the governor. A lot of work, but the mower only has 105 hours according to the hour meter. I am having another odd problem as well. The alternator wouldn't charge, I checked at the AC where it comes off the alternator, only put out 12 volts AC, I changed the alternator and it put out 36 volts AC. at the battery it was 14.5 volts DC. Then 2 days later, it stopped charging. I put the old alternator back on and then it was charging correctly. Again a couple of days later, it stopped charging. Again I put the new alternator back on and it started working again. I don't understand why it's acting crazy. After I get the governor replaced, I'm changing the voltage regulator. I'm in the mist of a lot of other problems as well so I may have to put this on hold for a few weeks before I can get back to it. Thank you for your videos, I enjoy them. I have to admit I don't fully understand everything about the generators, but I think I am learning. They are a great learning tool even for an old retired guy like me. Have a wonderful NEW YEAR ✨😊 I found the problem, it was the voltage regulator. Now it charges correctly. That was driving me crazy.
Compression gear on the cam is broke sometimes and will not cause a "bump" enough to release the pressure to release enough to turn the engine over easily.
Did you get out a tape measure and check the wheel base on the left and right side? I bet they were not the same. Something was wrong there and you did a workaround and did not find the root problem.
Good job. I suspect the wheel has been rammed either where it was parked in the garage by a car or since the previous owner was so unadaptive to mechanics to hook up the choke to the throttle and the throttle to the choke, which means he was brain dead or something seriously wrong he may have had it parked sidewise in front of the car and just rammed it with the car.
I know it's hard to determine which drag length is bent but did you check the left side..i had a cub cadet come in where both wheels were toed out.. come to find out they hit something really hard with the left wheel..the guy let his kid cut the grass and he hit a tree with the left tire..it was the left drag length that was bent..and you need a torch to heat it up to straighten it..looks like you got a good tractor out of this deal..hope it last a long time...Cheers 🍻🍻🍻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Good Evening...Great videos on your channel. Have Yardman 22hp Briggs same problem (engine racing)can't idle down.....I tried to rebuild carb. Could the carb cause WOT? What else to look for...thanks in advance
You have made your son very happy
I don't think I had ever seen this video. Glad I found for a friend.
Your explanations are clear and easy to understand. Thanks for having the patience to explain in a way that is logical.
Just a quick note to say thanks as your quick tweak of the governor at the beginning gave me an idea on how to fix an issue on my mower I’ve had for a few years - cable tie saved me until now.
When you were cutting the spring, I was yelling for you not to. I was telling you to put the spring in right so it was hooked on the ends. As far as the wheel alignment, use a string, much better than a broom handle.
Yes a string would have been better. Probably could have made that spring work, but a new one was not much.
Make a toe end bar , it’s easy out of conduct pipe
He isn’t able to hear you, so hollering didn’t help.
0:34 0:34
I have two Husqvarna ride on mowers, one a gift and both broke their folded sheet metal chassis. Break point is under the large skirt pressing in line with the front of the seat. Need to remove the seat and skirt piece to fix. One chassis had three holes at the maximum stress point one of which was square for a coach head bolt. Fix was to weld up the break then cut some long diamond shaped plates from 1/8" steel plate and weld them over the top.
The larger Husqvarna also has bad toe out and no means of adjustment, but seeing that new drag link with tapped end and threaded in ball joint with locking nut means I have another winter project to accomplish. Helps when you have a Lathe, Milling machine and welding set. Necessary for Husqvarna ride on mower Owners. Oh and always fit kevlar belts and DON'T mow over sticks bigger than 1/4" dia.
Best camera and talk , thanks shinsation
James, the problem with these mowers is the front axel being made of stamped and welded sheat metal. when the right wheel hits anything solid like a tree or wall, it twists the front axel towards the rear causing the wheel to tow out. You can see that by looking from the top of the front axel down and seeing that the front axel is no longer vertical on that side. Compair it with the other side of the axel. There are cast iron ones on e-bay or maybe Amazon to replace the stamped ones. check it out.
Nice job going thru the throttle spring diagnosis and repair. It is difficult to find any easy explanations or diagrams that illustrate the springs and rods and their proper placements. I had to clean my carb 2 years ago and one of the rods came off, the choke still sticks to this day. I will now recheck my placements, Thanks!
Notice the piles of grass clippings up in the area of the main drive belt pulley. I had the same condition with the grass and leaf cuttings. The engine would rev up but the tractor would not go. It would creep a bit. Watching a youTube repair, the had the same no go problem and inspection revealed pilles of grass cuttings interfering with the belt and belt pulley. Your tractor in this video has piles of grass clippings in the pulley area. Cleared my problem with my air compressor and extended air wand. When I put the tractor away for the winter I will pull the deck, sharpen blades and be sure there are no grass clippings or oak leaf choppings causing the drive belt to slip. Nice video.
JoeB
It happens alot 😢😢😢
Thanks for walking through all of these things. I learned a lot that translates into many different mowers!
Instead of cutting the threaded piece, maybe you could have cut some of the actual link arm off, assuming it was threaded pretty far in, and not just the first 1/4" or so. This would allow you to keep using the locking nut. Just a thought.
My old Craftsman was out of line so I took the drag link that was out, lined up the other side, stuck that drag ling in a vise and laid the hammer to it till it'd line up with the holes. Put the link back on and it's run just fine since then and that's been several years and those are fixed so they turn a lot sharper to the left so they can discharge from the right. I can go inside a 3 foot circle. BLESSINGS!
Great information on the carb issue and the rod repair. Thanks for the video.
James you are giving Mustie 1 some serious competition , lol
Thanks, but Mustie will always be the King.
Famous last words. I kinda' noticed a couple of other things while waiting for (insert part name)! Great video.
I bet you have a natural born ability to visualize mechanics and can fix anything. I also have that ability and your videos are like watching myself fix stuff. I took apart anything I could as a little kid and now I never goto a mechanic, even stuff like plumbing, electrical, ect I do. I like being able to do that stuff. Great video!
That pretty much sums it up. I do not think my parents liked it when I took apart everything in the house as a kid.
@@jcondon1 I was thinking more perhaps you were a surgeon in a previous career, given your steady hand & patient logical manner. But yeah, being a born "tinkerer" I can relate & I think our parents probably cursed our inquisitive minds (at least until we first saved them a big repair bill on something haha).
junglistmovement,
I feel blessed to be able to do a lot of different things as well. I'm retired now after 44 years of being in the trucking industry. 🚚 big trucks not the picture of the little one. I have worked on trucks and trailers, that stuff is heavy. Lawn mowers are much lighter 👌. I have done a lot of things too and you're correct it feels good to do your own work.
If you get this, I hope you have a wonderful NEW YEAR
Very good diagnostics. You found the issue quick
Thanks 👍
I love how you pronouncing Husqvarna 😉😄
Yes, im from Sweden 🇸🇪🇸🇪 👍🏻
norway here. Ditto 😅😛
All of your videos are well done and correct. There are a lot of people on You Tube that aren't even close on some of their diagnostic findings. I find you to be correct on every one of your videos. Great job!!! I enjoy learning repair methods on You Tube. You just need to know who to trust.
Yes!
Pretty good camera shots as well.
As far as the right front tire sticking out a little more than the left, is simply Huskys way of showing their confidence in their product. In so many words, They're saying that even though the tractor is made for mowing, go ahead and put it on the round track and race it. It will do just fine. LoL
Good one, got mmmme laughing 😝
Looked like it was still toed in on the right side at the end there. Good job getting that mess of springs sorted out! Seems like someone was fiddling around with them who didn't know what they were doing.
Great video. The real problem with the steering was the inside of the front wheel was destroyed. I am sure you figured it out. Keep up the great work.
Lucky boy! His dad would be proficient at anything he chooses to be. Pass it on, dad!
Good show James. Thanks again
Very interesting as always ! My buddy has that same trans on a rebadged husky to McCullough , I do his lawn whenever he's working off shore , i remembered that same push-pull rod/wire once completely refused to go back in , i managed to reach up from underneath hold it further in and apply more pressure and it returned to position , funny thing is it's only done it once to me in 13 year's of mowing , and i never lubed it lol hardcase..... I think that young Lad really really wants a kick ass quad ! 😉🙃😎 NZ
Hi James once again you have help me with a throttle problem I had Your a wiz kid my friend thanks.
Same problem , drilled new mounting hole in mounting plate, works fine.
You really did spent time and input on this working machine congratulations 🎉
Great 👍 work you done here
you did a great job of explaining things in your video!
i had a similar issue with an adjustable drag link (poorly threaded, loose fit) so i just put a tack weld on....problem solved
The right side axle is twisted at the bend ! I fixed mine by removing the axle, putting it in my vise, heating it up with my propane torch and adjusting the twist !
Very helpful indeed. I have 3 of these. The first one I bought brand new 10 years ago. Still a good tractor. I picked up two more at a yard sale this Spring and motors and mowing decks work fine. The guy said transmissions were no good. After watching your video, these two probably has the same problems. Both are 2654 Kohler engines run great, bodys are great. I'm hoping this will be the exact problem and and I will be able to do what you did. Thank you for posting this video.
I just picked up a LGT2654. Having troubles with the Kohler engine surging. I've done everything so far including adjusting valves.
Beginning to think governor spring is worn. The engine is running much better but doesn't hold a steady RPM and I think it may be governor related.
I find the sound of those VeeTwins very satisfyjng. I have a very hilly block and those V2 pull like ....errrr......a tractor.
It is a great sounding engine.
Well done, James!
wow.. some one was screwing around with things they knew nothing about haha !!! good job repairing it !!
I have the same tractor and the trans disconnect lever does not need to be pushed back in. Simply start tractor, engage trans and lever automatically retracts
My brother just GAVE me a husqvarna... one just like this and it won't go ither. the pulleys were making all kinds of noise.. fixed pulleys but won't move still... your the only one that showed what that little "wire" for the freewheel thingy is for... well mine just bends too, im about to go tappy tap...HOPE THATS ALL IT IS
edit. That's what it was. THANK YOU
Should cut the control arm at the "female" side instead of the "male" side so that the lock nut is still good. Great video!
Big help on free wheel pin. Thank you!
NO need to shorten the steering shafts to reduce toe in. Simply lift the front, then using the pipe from a hydraulic jack for leverage, bend the brackets that the steering links are connected to. Takes 2 minutes
25:16 I think that instead of the right front wheel being offset over to the right an inch, it is more likely that it is just toed in slightly. There is really no point of reference on the side of the tractor to be able to tell if the broom stick is truly parallel and turning the steering wheel slightly to the right would bring the broom stick to the rear wheel (but then left side would be out an inch). Not that a small angle like this matters on a lawn mower, but just my 2 cents. Anyway, I really enjoyed this video and learned a ton! Throttle linkage setups on these things has always confused me.
Yeah, looked like a toe-in to me too.
Doc, another deal, looks like a pretty nice mower.
This was a great video on the Governor assembly, I am currently having the same problem on the YTH 22v46.
did you get it fixed? same problem on the same model.
I really wish you would leave the camera rolling when you actually do the work. Please just show everything. I am particularly interested in how the tools are used. Thank you, you are a genius.
Mower is braced to front axle so when deck hits obstruction front axle is bent backwards , steering rods are operating longer,
Instead of cutting off the threaded part of the drag link end, you could have cut off the end of the drag link itself. There was plenty of thread inside the end. Then you could use the jam nut as designed which I think is going to be a pain for you later. The Jam nut keeps it from flopping around. Also, you could have gotten an adjustable heim joint (eyelet type) to use with the draglink.
Holy cow, 1436.0 hours seems like a lot for a lawn tractor. Especially one that new and that clean.
I think someone left the ignition in the run position. Like that it will run up the clock with the engine off. It’s a quick way to depreciate a machines value.
I’ve got a Ferris zero turn showing over 8000 hours on the meter. I believe the real hours probably is more like 1200.
Man i love mechanics but anytime i ever had to work on one of these carb set-ups id rather hit it with a hammer and buy a new one than try and figure out those damn springs….. your explanation was clear as day!! I totally get it know sweet video 👍👍
I just got one like that and all i had to was rebuild the front end and put tractor lug tires on the back. The top link is for the choke so someone put the cables on backwards
LF tire has negative camber angle; bent knuckle, worn bushing?
I've got a Husky that the trans wouldn't go into neutral or reverse.
Broke the trans down and found dry spindles for the pulleys. Scotchbrite and a little grease and she drives like new!
You could look and see if front rims have an off set and not put on the same way that could be why one seems wider than the other but as long as it tracks straight it isn’t anything to really worry about
Best thing to do is order the correct governor and throttle springs
That’s what I do I they been messed with and adjust the governor shaft 😊
It’s July 4,2023, dogs all barking and trying to hide from the noise bangs
It would appear to me the only problem with this tractor, was the loose nut behind the wheel. Glad the new owner is on the ball.
Pretty sure you scored that machine should have a k66 transmission. They have those thin rods for the fluid bypass and it looked like you had a fluid expansion tank as well. Probably need to work it back and forth to rub off corrosion due to it probably didn't get used much and was in one position for a long time. It did sound a little whiny at the end when taking off might not of been a bad idea to do a fluid change and inspect the fluid for metal particles. That alone is a score most machines have a k46 or worse.
Nicely recovered.
Thanks
Very good video presentation.
Thanks
I have worked on those husqvarna steering issues. It is a big mystery to me as well. We would adjust it into alignment and use it for a minute and it would be back out. Never found a bad part on it.
That was my experiance.
That governor shaft seal is for sure leaking, it usually what is leaking and not the sump gasket 😢
"Looks" can be deceiving, it appeared to be a well taken care tractor but hindsight is 100% accurate..... way to many hillbillies got under the hood so to speak......I have bought 3 tractors and 4 or 5 snow blowers that appeared in like new condition only to find numerous donkey repairs that needed to be fixed.....seems you have a good runner in the end.
I was wondering if you could have cut some off the new drag link to make room for the nut?
That right tire being out & draglink looking correct makes me think only the axle that goes into the tire/rim was bent from someone hitting something. Maybe could have heated just that portion & bent it back right at the ' J ' shaped area.
On the toe issue I wonder if it is bent elsewhere.
NO,GOV SLOWS THE ENGINE DOWN, THROTTLE SRINGS SPEEDS IT UP, IDLE IS CONTROLED BY THE GOV, NOT SOME SPRING, LOOK FOR THE AJUSTING SCREW BY THE THROTTLE STOP, THERE SHOULD BE ONE FOR THE HIGH THROTTLE AS WELL.BEST OF LUCK.
Some engineer from VAG was let go and designed the governor/carb linkage but knew better than using 27 different types of fasteners.
I'm kidding of course....or am I.
New Governor Spring installed backward. Under idle, it should move freely or loose. Once you are in Full Throttle, the spring will tighten to prevent engine surging. The way you install it it, it will fall off in the future as well.
I agree. Not sure why I did it that way.
I have a yt48XLS. Great "attachment rollerd and such, but thet ruin the transmission. Worked great then the transmission mount broke. Then the transmission failed. I bought and replaced the transmission. A hydrostatic transmission is the weak point. You can replace or the engine. I love my Kohler engine. Its the transmission that is trying to hold a deck up that wieghs tooo much. Bullet proof deck, but a reason it was on a smaller transmission i will never know I left an engineering degree because of teality😂
Somebody has taken that engine apart and didn't put it back the right way.
Just WOW…this whole video WOW! That is an absolute unit great observation on the spring! What ended up being the issue with the “hump” problem?
Watching an oldie!
A Governor with loose nuts and bad springs ! Sounds like most politicians !
Thanks for the video.
Mate2Frio thanks
Came here for troubleshooting, I have the same mower, mine turned out to be the drive belt stretched and slipped so nothing was powering the transmission, really hard to see this out in the yard without getting the mower on jacks. Just sharing for others that might be having the same issue but this didnt address...great video otherwise.
I have a question lawn mower well not go into gear it grins
The trans is probably covered in grass clippings jamming the free wheel lever.
!
They had reversed the installation of the low speed spring. They had tried to hook it in from the top, instead of in from the bottom because they hooked it incorrectly on the governor arm.
I see it often on the b/s twins
Great video, thank you
The brake should release the lever. Mine got stuck once and working the brake freed it. Also the spring can hop off or the rod can get bent. I've never had to go into the transmission.
Nice find.
Don’t u love it when someone doesn’t have a clue & works on something making it far worse than it was to begin with!!!!
I use to go behind these type of people a lot!!
They could talk themselves into a raise but wasn’t as good as they say they were !! And didn’t care about customers as much either! Jus getting that paycheck & buying their beer & cigarettes for the weekend!
I have a Husqvarna 2011 42 inch cut. It makes noise from the transmission and I don’t know where it’s coming from. Sometimes the reverse sticks and forwards sticks.
I thought it was going to be a super short explanation. "Doesn't move, push in the freewheel lever. Done."
Great job and video. Thanks.
Very nice thanks
Thanks for sharing
The mower must have been built on a Friday
Late Friday afternoon...
Great help thanks
I would have insisted on setting the right governed high speed (spec is probably in the 3400 range from Husqvarna) and idle (probably 1250 ish?). I know, not totally necessary, but kind of satisfying...
Love your videos mate 👍
Sir, you got lucky, I'm working on a 22 horsepower Briggs, just like yours. I readjusted the governor but it still wants to run away. Now I'm taking the engine off, and replace the governor. A lot of work, but the mower only has 105 hours according to the hour meter. I am having another odd problem as well. The alternator wouldn't charge, I checked at the AC where it comes off the alternator, only put out 12 volts AC, I changed the alternator and it put out 36 volts AC. at the battery it was 14.5 volts DC. Then 2 days later, it stopped charging. I put the old alternator back on and then it was charging correctly. Again a couple of days later, it stopped charging. Again I put the new alternator back on and it started working again. I don't understand why it's acting crazy. After I get the governor replaced, I'm changing the voltage regulator. I'm in the mist of a lot of other problems as well so I may have to put this on hold for a few weeks before I can get back to it.
Thank you for your videos, I enjoy them. I have to admit I don't fully understand everything about the generators, but I think I am learning. They are a great learning tool even for an old retired guy like me.
Have a wonderful NEW YEAR ✨😊
I found the problem, it was the voltage regulator. Now it charges correctly. That was driving me crazy.
Compression gear on the cam is broke sometimes and will not cause a "bump" enough to release the pressure to release enough to turn the engine over easily.
Thankfully a valve adjustment fixed that issue. Was thinking I might need to change the cam shaft.
I have an identical inductive tach. I have a Stihl tach, too but it displays one half the actual rpm.
Ya, thats not how you set or check toe on any axle. Put the broom away and get the tape measure out, and do it correctly.
are you going to set your son up with his own garage and his own tools and getting started on working on this stuff
Did you get out a tape measure and check the wheel base on the left and right side? I bet they were not the same. Something was wrong there and you did a workaround and did not find the root problem.
they didnt take good care of it... that's why u have it
Do you possibly know how to take a locking differential off of a Husqvarna lawn tractor newer style?
Not a bad machine
Good job. I suspect the wheel has been rammed either where it was parked in the garage by a car or since the previous owner was so unadaptive to mechanics to hook up the choke to the throttle and the throttle to the choke, which means he was brain dead or something seriously wrong he may have had it parked sidewise in front of the car and just rammed it with the car.
I know it's hard to determine which drag length is bent but did you check the left side..i had a cub cadet come in where both wheels were toed out.. come to find out they hit something really hard with the left wheel..the guy let his kid cut the grass and he hit a tree with the left tire..it was the left drag length that was bent..and you need a torch to heat it up to straighten it..looks like you got a good tractor out of this deal..hope it last a long time...Cheers 🍻🍻🍻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Good Evening...Great videos on your channel.
Have Yardman 22hp Briggs same problem (engine racing)can't idle down.....I tried to rebuild carb.
Could the carb cause WOT?
What else to look for...thanks in advance