How I wish I'd found this video a couple of weeks ago! I had the same task, and encountered all the same issues - and then some. But I got there. The old machine I inherited is an INCA 342 from France. The innards were choked with accumulated wood dust in every crevice and corner. Every bearing , guide and adjustment screw was caked, needing removal and scraping clean. I'd never before seen the insides of a bandsaw, so this was a 'voyage of discovery'. The tension adjustment was and remains seized solid from decades of neglect. I had to use the Tracking Control knob to get enough slack to mount the new blade, and then accept the resultant tension when the tracking was right. The upper/lower blade guides used several 'carbon' blocks which were positioned/secured by means of tiny hex setscrews. Their keyways were blocked by caked dust. All that sorted/adjusted, I had a trial 'spin-up' which seemed fine, so I tried cutting some 50mm teak. Problem! Cutting was extremely slow - far slower than that the previous old blade achieved. And there was a 'clacking' sound. I switched off, opened up and inspected the blade. I noted a tiny incipient crack on the inside of the weld area.... so that blade was NBG, and went back to Amazon. I then sought advice - from Tuff Blades in South Wales, who were exceptionally patient with an ignorant noobie, providing much guidance and two new blades. They also quietly pointed out something I'd never heard of - not even after wading through more than a dozen UA-cam videos. My machine is what is known in the trade as 'LEFTHANDED'. No, me neither! The newly-fitted blade is 'sweet as a nut'. 50mm teak is a 'walk in the park'. No undue noises, no squeals of protest. Just simply effective.... Proves once again the merit in asking for advice from a responsive pro. No more 'fools rush in'....
Our woodshop teacher made folding and unfolding those blades look so easy. A sharp bandsaw blade is critical if you want accurate cuts that don't wander.
Olá James, sou brasileiro, moro no sul do Brasil, em uma pequena cidade, Biguaçu, que fica ao lado da capital, Florianópolis, no estado de Santa Catarina. Gosto muito de marcenaria, tenho algumas máquinas e estive olhando seu canal, adorei, muitas dicas boas sobre artesanato, que é o que gosto. Temos três filhas, duas delas moram em Los Angeles. Amo o seu país. Muito obrigado pelas suas dicas!
I don't want to tell you how long it took me the first time I attempted to change my old Porter Cable blade; you did much better your first time than I.
Get yourself a couple small squeeze clamps to hold the blade on the wheel while you line up the blade on the other wheel. There's a UA-cam video on it. Really helpful. And I throw my new blades in the grass to uncoil it.
Thank you! haha! That's the knob to use when you want less (or more) tension. Way more effective than using the tracking knob to loosen the tension. ha!
Uma pergunta James. Você usa muito a Bosch RA 1181? Acha realmente útil, para trabalhos pequenos de artesanato? Tenho uma, estou pensando em vender e comprar uma menor, o que você acha?
No, I can't say I have used it a lot. I think the size is reasonable for the kinds of projects I have done and want to do. A smaller table would mean less support for some sizes of projects, but hey do what works for you! :-)
Behind the blue tarp is shelving with a bunch of stuff on it...proects....tools etc. I worry that it's visually distracting and so I put the tarp up to simplify the visuals in the video.
1:03 If you REALLY were a "safety first" kind of a guy, you would lock the door to the workshop and never go back in. What actually comes first is, "accomplishing your task", otherwise you have no reason to be there.
Don’t throw the blade on the ground , you could damage a tooth ! If your that worried about getting cut use a pair of leather gloves, but no don’t chuck it on the ground that is a horrible tip ….
@@07roadking43 Any bigger blade when folded has enough potential energy to cut your nose clean off before you even realize what is happening. It is impossible to control. No matter what kind of gloves you have. DO NOT ATTEMPT! And yes you risk damaging the tooth. Using soft ground is better, but even then losing a tooth is a lot of better than losing body parts.
How I wish I'd found this video a couple of weeks ago!
I had the same task, and encountered all the same issues - and then some. But I got there.
The old machine I inherited is an INCA 342 from France. The innards were choked with accumulated wood dust in every crevice and corner. Every bearing , guide and adjustment screw was caked, needing removal and scraping clean. I'd never before seen the insides of a bandsaw, so this was a 'voyage of discovery'.
The tension adjustment was and remains seized solid from decades of neglect. I had to use the Tracking Control knob to get enough slack to mount the new blade, and then accept the resultant tension when the tracking was right. The upper/lower blade guides used several 'carbon' blocks which were positioned/secured by means of tiny hex setscrews. Their keyways were blocked by caked dust. All that sorted/adjusted, I had a trial 'spin-up' which seemed fine, so I tried cutting some 50mm teak.
Problem! Cutting was extremely slow - far slower than that the previous old blade achieved. And there was a 'clacking' sound. I switched off, opened up and inspected the blade. I noted a tiny incipient crack on the inside of the weld area.... so that blade was NBG, and went back to Amazon.
I then sought advice - from Tuff Blades in South Wales, who were exceptionally patient with an ignorant noobie, providing much guidance and two new blades. They also quietly pointed out something I'd never heard of - not even after wading through more than a dozen UA-cam videos. My machine is what is known in the trade as 'LEFTHANDED'. No, me neither!
The newly-fitted blade is 'sweet as a nut'. 50mm teak is a 'walk in the park'. No undue noises, no squeals of protest. Just simply effective....
Proves once again the merit in asking for advice from a responsive pro. No more 'fools rush in'....
So much of woodworking is problem solving!
Our woodshop teacher made folding and unfolding those blades look so easy. A sharp bandsaw blade is critical if you want accurate cuts that don't wander.
I think I am going to need some practice unfolding band saw blades.
@@HomestyleWoodCrafts you throw the coiled blade and let it unfold as it hits the ground
Olá James, sou brasileiro, moro no sul do Brasil, em uma pequena cidade, Biguaçu, que fica ao lado da capital, Florianópolis, no estado de Santa Catarina. Gosto muito de marcenaria, tenho algumas máquinas e estive olhando seu canal, adorei, muitas dicas boas sobre artesanato, que é o que gosto. Temos três filhas, duas delas moram em Los Angeles. Amo o seu país. Muito obrigado pelas suas dicas!
I hope the tips are helpful. Thanks for watching!
I don't want to tell you how long it took me the first time I attempted to change my old Porter Cable blade; you did much better your first time than I.
haha! I get it. I had the advantage of video editing where all the time I took is not shown.
Get yourself a couple small squeeze clamps to hold the blade on the wheel while you line up the blade on the other wheel. There's a UA-cam video on it. Really helpful. And I throw my new blades in the grass to uncoil it.
Great tip. Thanks for sharing!
I really liked the part where you loosened the tension via loosening the tension knob.
Thank you! haha! That's the knob to use when you want less (or more) tension. Way more effective than using the tracking knob to loosen the tension. ha!
I highly recommend taking the new blade outside, throwing it in the air, and running when un-coiling new blades. Those things are viscous.
Great advice. I love it!
The blade guide should not be all the up when cutting 1/2 material. It should be just above the material.
Did you read the manual?
Yes, I did read the manual and typically when I operate the saw I lower the guide. It was an oversight in this case. Good reminder. Thanks!
Uma pergunta James. Você usa muito a Bosch RA 1181? Acha realmente útil, para trabalhos pequenos de artesanato?
Tenho uma, estou pensando em vender e comprar uma menor, o que você acha?
No, I can't say I have used it a lot. I think the size is reasonable for the kinds of projects I have done and want to do. A smaller table would mean less support for some sizes of projects, but hey do what works for you! :-)
So what are you hiding be find the blue tarp?
Behind the blue tarp is shelving with a bunch of stuff on it...proects....tools etc. I worry that it's visually distracting and so I put the tarp up to simplify the visuals in the video.
1:03 If you REALLY were a "safety first" kind of a guy, you would lock the door to the workshop and never go back in. What actually comes first is, "accomplishing your task", otherwise you have no reason to be there.
Haha! Good point! I guess what I mean then is I intend to be as safe as I can while working in the shop. Thanks for watching!
You don't unfold the blade by opening it yourself. You just throw it to the ground. Not kidding.
Great tip! Thanks!
Don’t throw the blade on the ground , you could damage a tooth ! If your that worried about getting cut use a pair of leather gloves, but no don’t chuck it on the ground that is a horrible tip ….
@@07roadking43 Any bigger blade when folded has enough potential energy to cut your nose clean off before you even realize what is happening. It is impossible to control. No matter what kind of gloves you have. DO NOT ATTEMPT! And yes you risk damaging the tooth. Using soft ground is better, but even then losing a tooth is a lot of better than losing body parts.
NEVER EVER run the saw with the door open
Always appreciate the safety reminders!